GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 58 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
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CONTENTS EATING OUT
FEATURE
COOKING
REGULARS
NORTH AND EIGHT Madelaine Marsolino
SUGAR MOUNTAIN
FABRIZIA’S RICOTTA GNOCCHI WITH PEAS, BROAD BEANS AND MINT Gnocchi di ricotta di Fabrizia con piselli, fave e menta
CONTRIBUTORS
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NEWLY OPENED
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AROUND THE TRAPS
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THINGS WE LOVE
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REVIEWS
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OUT AND ABOUT
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THE DIARY
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GRAM w
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BISTRO MORGAN Megan Osborne KITTY BURNS Lisa Holmen
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PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF THE MEANING OF “MUSIC
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FESTIVAL” Lauren Bruce and Pia Hambour
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GNOCCHI WITH FERMENTED BLACK GARLIC Gnocchi con aglio nero Paola Bacchia
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ON THE COVER: BEETROOT Whether you roast it whole, blend into a classic soup or drink as juice like the Olympians do - beetroot is low in fat, full of vitamins and minerals and packed with powerful antioxidants - a health-food titan. Like many modern vegetables, beetroot was first cultivated by the Romans. By the 19th century it held great commercial value when it was discovered that beets could be converted into sugar. Today, the leading commercial producers include the USA, Russia, France, Poland and Germany. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
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COVER DESIGN
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Jess Hourigan
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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
PAOLA BACCHIA Paola Bacchia is an Italian-Australian blogger and her award winning blog Italy on my Mind tells the story of family memories and their connection to food. She shares simple, seasonal recipes on her blog and runs a cooking school from her home in Fitzroy. italyonmymind.com.au INSTAGRAM: italyonmymind
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
MEGAN OSBORNE Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
LISA HOLMEN After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015. lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds INSTAGRAM: dsimages TWITTER: imagesDS E: deany76@gmail.com
LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a self-confessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo). ladonnadelvino.com TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
MADELAINE MARSOLINO Madelaine Marsolino is a food writer, based in Melbourne. Madelaine is the founder of a food blog called Taking a Bite, takingabite.net, dedicated to sharing her passion of food with those who have an appreciate for food and high quality dining experiences. takingabite.net INSTAGRAM: takingabite
CHASING A PLATE Two people in Melbourne who love food set about a journey to find the best brunch in town. Scouting out new brunch places weekly for you to try is our quest. Don’t worry – coffee quality is just as important to us as the food. chasingaplate.com TWITTER: chasingaplate INSTAGRAM: chasingaplate FACEBOOK: chasingaplate PINTEREST: chasingaplate
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival. TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
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NOW OPEN JANE DOE OPENED: January 2016 With signature cocktails on tap, inviting ambience, and passionate owners with more than a decade of experience, Jane Doe on Chapel won’t remain anonymous in Melbourne’s bar scene for long. From the moment you enter this recently opened bar at the Prahran end of Chapel, you’re made to feel at home - it’s like an extension of your lounge room, but with the welcome addition of creative and enticing cocktails.
219 CHAPEL STREET, PRAHRAN janedoebar.com.au facebook.com/janedoebar
No details have been spared to deck out the venue – crystal cut decanter lights hang above the bar, vintage-style frames border the bottle shelves and the bar front is covered in bronze pressed tin. Comfy retro velvet couches provide the perfect place to sit and enjoy the lounge and electro swing beats, or if people watching along Chapel is more your thing, head through the bi-fold doors opening into the sunshine. Wherever you choose to sit, rest assured the staff will make you feel like you’re in your home away from home.
TENPIN OPENED: December 2015 Tenpin has got the residents of Port Melbourne salivating. Set to open in mid-December, the vibrant new restaurant and bar will offer contemporary South East Asian dishes, appropriately served up alongside picturesque ocean views on Beach Street.
67 BEACH STREET, PORT MELBOURNE tenpinkitchen.com.au Instagram.com/tenpinkitchen Facebook.com/tenpinkitchen
Hospitality gurus Nick Savage, Lyndal Barnes and Matt Thurley have again teamed up with Executive Chef Ashley Richey (Mr Lawrence, Chin Chin, Mecca Bah) to convert a rundown twostorey space (previously R Bar) into the dynamic new dining venue. Christened Tenpin after Barnes stumbled cross the old signage for Mentone’s Tenpin Bowling Club, seats 200 patrons for lunch and dinner in a fun and lively space that takes its design.
MOTORHOME MAJESTIC OPENED: February 10, 2016 Motorhome Majestic has set up camp in Ascot Vale this month, treating residents to a permanent home-away-from-home when in need of quality burgers, beer, wine or delicious cocktail on tap. Created by Josh Lefers (the mastermind Pawn & Co.) as the sibling to the CBD’s Grand Trailer Park Taverna and Werribee’s Truck Stop Deluxe, Motorhome Majestic is yet another crazy, fun dining adventure that’s ready to take customers on the ride of their life, complete with Jayco caravans. The menu is taking a slight twist from that of previous venues, with Motorhome Majestic serving up juicy pork ribs and chicken wings in addition to the signature burger menu. The venue has a big focus on drinks, including the “bulldog” (a Corona cocktail), espresso martinis and margaritas on tap, in addition to beer and wine – which are also available as part of the takeaway option. 238 UNION ROAD, ASCOT VALE motohomemajestic.com.au | twitter.com/motorhomemajestic instagram.com/motorhomemajestic
The hot and sour beef salad with Sichuan chilli oil, herbs, roasted rice and lime is sure to be a popular main on a hot summer’s night, while the Thai green curry of blue-eye with apple, eggplant, baby corn and snake beans will be a crowd favourite. The Tenpin team has created a casual and fun atmosphere where the drinks list is just as exciting as the menu.
FRENCH SALOON BAR AND BISTRO OPENED: January 2016 Having just opened above Kirks Wine Bar, French Saloon is the next in line of Ian Curley expanding food and drink empire. Curley, together with Con Christopoulos and Josh Brisbane (both of The European, Siglo, City Wine Shop) has converted the space above Melbourne favourite, Kirks, into a sophisticated yet relaxed, modern French bistro. Similar to Kirks, the wine, as you would expect, is fabulous, and with Todd Moses (exSupernormal) as executive chef, the food is modern yet classic. LEVEL 1, 380–384 LITTLE BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE frenchsaloon.com twitter.com/frenchsaloon
ROYAL STACKS OPENED: February 2016 Royal Stacks is Melbourne’s latest burger restaurant taking inspiration from fine casual dining in the US. Continuing from his pedigree of helping open venues such as Dandenong Pavilion, Grand Trailer Park Taverna, Easey’s and Truck Stop Deluxe, Dani Zeini sees this is an Aussie spin on classic American fast food using GMO free pasture fed beef, minced daily with no added nasties. In terms of the dessert offering, Mark Mariotti from 7 Apples has created the frozen custard selection with combos such as New York Cheesecake and Kinder Surprise. Royal Stacks officially opened to the public on the 18th of January and operates Monday to Saturday from 11.30am to 10.00pm menu. The venue has a big focus on drinks, including the “bulldog” (a Corona cocktail), espresso martinis and margaritas on tap, in addition to beer and wine – which are also available as part of the takeaway option. 470 COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE royalstacks.au | facebook.com/Royal-Stacks
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AROUND THE TRAPS
LUNAR MARKETS WELCOMED TO MELBOURNE The Harbour Esplanade, Docklands will come alive with the first annual The Age Lunar Markets: an 11-night Asian dining extravaganza for Melbournites and visiting food-lovers from 4 – 14 February. Following the success of the Lunar Markets in Sydney as well as the ever-increasing crowds flocking to November’s Night Noodle Markets, the very first Melbourne Lunar Markets are expected to draw impressive crowds to sample some of the best Asian cuisines in Australia. With live entertainment, food and drink offerings from some of Melbourne’s most popular vendors and endless photo opportunities for die-hard Instagrammers, including a 14 metre long light-up Phoenix, plus lantern installations and beautiful seating areas, market-goers will find themselves in a culinary wonderland. Last November’s Night Noodle Markets 2015 gave Melbourne its first taste of the Black Star Pastry and N2 Extreme Gelato collaboration which made waves in Sydney and crowds are expected to flock to the Markets to try their latest experiment: Hipster Fortune Cookies. The immensely popular Everybody Loves Ramen will be serving up Japanese fusion dishes such as their noodle-battered chicken burger. Joining them on the stallholder line-up will be street food extraordinaires Hoy Pinoy, who are known nationwide for their Filipino skewers. Last year, Melbournites chomped down on a whopping 38,000 skewers at the 2015 Night Noodle Markets. The free-to-attend markets offer something for everyone, with other stallholders such as O’Bun, Grilled Calamari, Sambul Kampung, Kiyamachi Tei, Dan’s Dim Sum Kitchen, Korean Twist Potato, Kabayan Filipino and Bangkok Street Food. The full list of stalls and exciting street-food style dishes can be found online at
PRAHRAN MARKET TO WELCOME CHEF PAUL WILSON Top culinary chef Paul Wilson will soon call Prahran Market home with the launch of his flagship restaurant set to open on Commercial Road mid 2016. The highly anticipated restaurant and bar (yet to be named) will celebrate only the best in quality local produce, inspired by seasonal Market ingredients. With an all-day menu, the new restaurant will promote the art of ‘real cooking’ with a refreshed luxe farm to table concept boasting modern Australian cuisine. Housing close to 150 seats and featuring two outdoor areas, Wilson’s flagship restaurant will form the largest eatery at Prahran Market, inclusive of two open kitchens, a wood rotisserie and a raw bar. Paul is best known for his time establishing iconic restaurants such as the Botanical Hotel in South Yarra (restaurant of the year and two chef’s hats); Prince of Wales Hotel Circa The Prince, and creative director of Icebergs Dining Room and Bar (two chef’s hats) in Bondi.
melbourne.lunarmarkets.com.au
This will be the first eatery at the Market trading outside of normal business hours, combining an all day menu with dinner and after work drinks.
Opening times are:
prahranmarket.com.au
Monday to Wednesday: 5pm-9pm | Thursday to Friday 5pm-10pm | Saturday 4pm-10pm Sunday 4pm-9pm
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EATING OUT ESSENDON
NORTH AND EIGHT WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MADELAINE MARSOLINO
Previously the local fruit shop, North and Eight in Essendon has brought a new palate of flavours and dining experience to the area. The North and Eight owners wanted to keep it local, and to design a light and airy space, giving the Essendon community a place to meet and enjoy each others company in a comfortable and enjoyable atmosphere.
Basement 141 Flinders Lane Melbourne 3000 +61 3 9650 3155
Owners Kylee and Adrian Dixen are Essendon locals serving locals. Offering everything from superfood salads and freshly squeezed juices for gym goers to menu features such as the Northella Houseshake with a Nutella doughnut on top, for those who are after a bit of a treat. Kylee says that Essendon locals are finally able to experience seasonal menus and specialty coffee, appropriate to the suburb’s rise in Melbourne’s food scene. Experienced cafe owners are drawn to Essendon to give diners what they want, fresh dishes with impeccable flavours. North and Eight represents the importance of building a relationship with diners and local suppliers and respecting the produce from the moment it enters the cafe to the time it is served on the plate. Kylee says that local
Adam D’ Sylva
20 Duckboard Place Melbourne 3000 +61 3 9650 3155
Chef/Owner
seasonal offering makes the food flavours come together. North and Eight pride themselves in serving elements such as Istra small goods and Murray Valley pork. The dishes at North and Eight are not complex, they are kept simple, allowing the flavours to speak for themselves. The exceptional combination of waffles with Korean Fried Chicken add extra interest to the menu, and is must try. Kylee and Adrian Dixen’s aim is to know that their diners have had amazing tasting food and coffee to get them through the day, and allow them to feel relaxed enough that they would feel at home while dining. The North and Eight team is an important part of the running of the cafe. Kylee states that the most of the staff are locals and care for the customers greatly. A wonderful team allows even more of a positive experience for diners. North and Eight dishes are substantial and packed full of flavour, the atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are attentive and passionate about the meals they are serving. North and Eight has definitely brought a sense of contemporary dining to the area, giving Buckley Street a lively new dining hotspot. NORTH AND EIGHT 285-287 Buckley Street, Essendon PH: (03) 9331 3858 facebook.com/northandeight WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
cedarhospitality.com
223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com 9
BISTRO MORGAN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE
At 15, Morgan Hipworth is a name a lot of Melburnians are starting to get
It may cross your mind that surely a 15 year old can’t possibly make
wind (or fresh baking wafts) of. Haven’t heard it? Think again. You may
doughnuts to a standard high enough to impress the Melbourne hospitality
be more familiar with the title Bistro Morgan, which Hipworth uses for
industry. Well then, you clearly haven’t tried one of these sexy sugar bombs.
his booming home-made doughnut business that’s taking Melbourne by sugary storm.
At 13, Hipworth was already keen to roll up his sleeves, and hopped into his local bakery to earn work experience on a regular basis. With more baking
Bistro Morgan doughnuts are stocked at some top cafes around
knowledge than some amateur chefs twice his age, he puts his success
Melbourne, but there’s also a huge waiting list while Hipworth juggles
down to a twice mixed and proving period, and high quality ingredients.
his school commitments with a hectic baking schedule. With a three day,
Hipworth says, ‘It’s all about good eggs, good butter, not skimping on the
twice-proving, rolling and decorating process, Hipworth has his work cut
ingredients. Instead of giving them half a Kit Kat I’ll give them a full one. It’s
out for him. ‘And I still get my homework done’, he jokes.
about making it look better and making it taste better.’ Adding on that what really makes his doughnuts stand out is, ‘They’re fresh and handmade, not
He first hit the scene a year ago, after a casual conversation with the
premixed.’ Which Hipworth tells us is why the Donutella craze produced a
manager of Ripponlea cafe, Hawk & Hunter, who convinced the then 14
vast amount of doughnuts that all tasted the same—premix.
year old home cook to bring in some of his cakes and pastries. It was a simple request ‘Can you do doughnuts?’, with which Hipworth responded,
While the dough remains consistent, what makes the Bistro Morgan
‘I can try’, that catapulted his career into the deep fryer.
doughnuts so exciting are the weekly changing flavours, often accompanied with the signature custard or salted caramel filled syringe.
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‘We never double up on flavours’, says Hipworth, although admitting that
ingenuous attitude adds to his charm, as when asked where he saw the
salted caramel is particularly popular with cafes and consumers. Hipworth’s
business going, and how he wanted a cafe to be placed in the industry,
personal favourite is his take on a Golden Gaytime; a sugary doughnut
the response was honestly frank. ‘I want it to be one of the best ones. But I
filled with salted caramel, dipped in chocolate and topped with nuts and
don’t just want one, I want multiple,’ He says, taking inspiration from some
honeycomb. Sorry, excuse the drool.
of Melbourne’s successful restauranteurs.
Bistro Morgan is celebrating a year this February since it’s inception, and
If his current level of success is anything to go by, this dream seems more
Hipworth admits he’s made improvements along the way, from technique
like a not-far-off reality to the teen whose first VCE subject will be business
to confidence and consistency. When you’re rolling over 100 lumps of
management. Further expansion enquiries such as sending Bistro Morgan
dough out at a time, Hipworth tells us it’s all about time management. ‘If
interstate were met with reluctance, but not refusal. ‘There’s too much
it over proves it’s like a flat pancake, if it’s under proved it’s too small.’ He
demand in Melbourne at the moment. Ask me in five years and it will be
says. He now well and truly has the experience and knowledge needed
a different answer.’ Coming from a family that self-owns and manages
to undertake large batches of doughy goodness, recently hitting the
businesses, it’s clear that Hipworth possesses a business savvy mind, and
Melbourne Flour Market as a huge success. Bistro Morgan’s offerings sold
his advice to others? ‘Focus on yourself, and do what you do best.’ Did I
out by 11am and transacted over 1000 doughnuts. If that’s not impressive
mention he’s only 15?
enough, it was backed up that week by his school charity event, where Bistro Morgan catered 300 delicious doughnuts to support the Asylum Seeker Resource Centre Christmas fundraiser. BISTRO MORGAN Although he’s found a niche he’s great at, Hipworth is still testing out some
Find Bistro Morgan doughnuts at Hawk & Hunter, Colin Chapel, Glovers
new ideas. A vegan friendly doughnut mix is in the works, alongside long
Station, Kitty Burns, Two Birds One Stone, Reunion and Co.
term dreams of opening up not just one, but numerous cafes. Hipworth’s
Stockist enquiries: morgan@bistromorgan.com.au or 0434 111 246
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“We’ve been using Chef’s Hat for all our hospitality supplies for years. Their customer service is outstanding and they often go to great lengths to accommodate our requests. We love their range of products and the team keep us informed of new items coming on the market they think will benefit our business. Chef’s Hat website is easy to use for online ordering and next day delivery is always a good thing!” CRAIG MCSHANE HEAD CHEF & PART OWNER
“It’s my seasonal market, the tireless & talented team ensure every visit to this retail icon is inspiring” PAUL WILSON - CHEF, FOUNDER & DIRECTOR
BOILERMAKER HOUSE
“An all-day diner serving
BROADSHEET
breakfast through to dinner and drinks into the night, the Broadsheet restaraunt
“I have been working with Chef’s Hat with my first venue
showcases Melbourne’s
for some time now and originally moved across to them for
world-leading chefs,
the very competitive prices they offer. The fantastic service
restaurateurs, bartenders
and high amount of face to face time ensured I had them on
and baristas – a selection of
board from the ground level with our second venue here in
what makes dining in this
Melbourne. The start-up of a new hospitality business is very
city so great. Broadsheet
high pressure and stressful and dealing with Chef’s Hat was
worked with Chef’s Hat for
just one element of our opening that was made super easy
their kitchen equipment -
and a pleasure. Very happy to have Chef’s Hat serving Eau-
another example of a great
de-Vie Melbourne and our new venue Boilermaker House.”
local partnership.”
GREG SANDERSON - DIRECTOR
CAROLINE CLEMENTS PUBLICATIONS DIRECTOR
THE MILLHOUSE
“We’re located in regional NSW which makes it hard for us to source quality products. The Chef’s Hat website allows us to shop the latest products on the market with ease. Within two days we have the products on our doorstep, despite us being over 1400km away.”
CAFE TREEO
“We at the Millhouse are always looked after by the Chef’s Hat Team. Thanks to the hard work of Chef’s Hat, we feel confident in delivering excellent service across all facets of our business. Both our front of house and back of house teams are ensured that every option is available when organising big functions right down to our daily operations.” AUGUSTIN ORTEGA - CHEF
DUNCAN & LEESA ELLIOT - OWNERS
INNOCENT BYSTANDER “We use Chef’s Hat as our main supplier for everything from glassware through to pastry cutters. They are an amazing source of nearly every item you could need to run your hospitality business. They are extremely helpful on the phone and have a fantastic team of staff that are always on hand to help us with whatever we need. I regularly use their website which is always up to date and is a fantastic point of reference to see visually what you would like to order. We would highly recommend any new or old business to seek these guys out!” CARRON GORDON - HOSPITALITY ADMINISTRATOR
CRAIG MCSHANE HEAD CHEF & PART OWNER
PAUL WILSON CHEF/FOUNDER
BOILERMAKER HOUSE GREG SANDERSON DIRECTOR
CAROLINE CLEMENTS PUBLICATIONS DIRECTOR
DUNCAN & LEESA ELLIOT OWNERS
GEORGIA SAMUEL OWNER LAUREN HOGAN OPS MANAGER
MEDITERRANEO “Having been Chef’s Hat’s customer since day one, I am constantly impressed with the way this business has grown and how it has effectively helped improve my own business. When I opened 13 years ago, I only know Chef’s Hat as a retail place where I can buy utensils, crockery and cutlery at whole sale price. Impressive? Yes. Is that all? No. Though the business has expanded at least ten folds, I am still served by a dedicate team who provide professional and personal services to hospitality industry and consumers alike. The showroom displays thousands of products from well-known brands to high end exclusive designer brands. Not being disappointed even once in the past 13 years, now that is something!” MICHAEL POPOVIC – OWNER & CHEF
MORRIS JONES
PROPER & SON
“We needed a company we could trust to supply our
“Been ‘nipping’ into Chef’s Hat for over 15 years now and
restaurant with quality assured products and service, so
like any good establishment consistency is the winner.....
naturally, we turned to Chef’s Hat. Their knowledge and
product, price & service always as it should be.”
service is second to none and they are always happy to help us EUGENE LAVERY – CHEF & OWNER
out in store and on the phone. We can always expect a prompt delivery which is one of the many reasons we have continued to use them as one of our top suppliers for a number of years.” MATTHEW BUTCHER - HEAD CHEF
“Chef’s Hat has been our supplier for over 15 years, providing all of our bar and kitchen needs on demand and at the best price. From
VINEYARD
the emergency toilet paper order to the best quality commercial ovens, Chef’s Hat are the most reliable supplier we have worked with. We can confidently trust them with new product knowledge and are certain that we are getting the best offer available.”
TOP PADDOCK
TIPO 00 “We have both used Chef’s Hat for years working around Melbourne. When we decided to open our own venue they were a fantastic help. We love the online ordering and heading to the showroom is so easy from the CBD. Chef’s Hat has everything covered from the equipment to disposables. We really appreciate the one stop shop.”
ANDREAS PAPADAKIS + LUKE SKIDMORE – OWNERS
“Chef’s Hat provides us with a level of service and a quality product second to none. We know our business is in good hands with Chef’s Hat”. JESSES MCTAVISH, NATHAN TOLEMAN, DIAMOND ROZAKEAS, TIM JAMES, BEN CLARK, SAM KING
JESSES MCTAVISH, NATHAN TOLEMAN, DIAMOND ROZAKEAS, TIM JAMES, BEN CLARK, SAM KING
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
THE NEFF MARKET KITCHEN The Neff Market Kitchen is a boutique cooking school nestled into the Cecil Street side of the South Melbourne Market. The intimate classes offer a rare opportunity to get up close and personal with some of Melbourne’s best chefs and learn how to create the dishes they are famous for. Coming up at the school Lee Ho Fook’s Victor Leong will be his sharing his modern riff on Chinese cuisine, Alejandro Saravia will be showing us why Peruvian is set to take the mantle from Mexico as Melbourne’s favourite Latin American cuisine, and Philippe Mouchel will demonstrate why classic French bistro cooking will never go out of style. For a full list of classes visit: SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU/COOKINGSCHOOL
KAKADU PLUM POWDER AUSTRALIA’S NATIVE SUPERFOOD The Kakadu Plum is Australia’s own ‘bush tucker’ superfood, 100% natural and wild harvested by the Australian Aboriginal People. The Kakadu Plum is known to have the highest natural source of vitamin C, up to 100 times the vitamin c to oranges. Full of incredible antioxidants it can be enjoyed in smoothies, breakfast bowls and protein balls. You are only limited by your creativity. By choosing Kakadu Plum Co. you support Aboriginal Indigenous communities in the Kimberly Region of Western Australia to help them grow and sustain something they have been doing for centuries. Available online and in stores across Australia. Enquiries: tahlia@kakaduplumco.com Instagram: @kakaduplumco KAKADUPLUMCO.COM
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THE GRAM STORE EVERYTHING FOR HOME COOKING WWW.THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU
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FEATURE STORY SUGAR MOUNTAIN
SUGAR MOUNTAIN Pushing the boundaries of the meaning of “Music Festival”
WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BRUCE AND PIA HAMBOUR
It’s been a difficult few years for music festivals around Australia – Soundwave and Big Day Out have seen their last days, along with others that just couldn’t make ends meet due to expensive booking costs and poor ticket sales. More and more, music festivals have to provide something that goes above and beyond, and this extends to the food offering; UDL cans and soggy hot chips are a thing of the past. Mushroom Records’ Sugar Mountain Festival, held across Melbourne’s Victorian College of the Arts, certainly delivered in this respect, providing top quality Americana food, Asian fusion, first class kebabs, sophisticated vegan/vegetarian food, craft beer and whiskey cocktails. Sugar Mountain’s culture-savvy attendees hungrily devoured these between performances across three stages from musicians including Alpine, Courtney Barnett and Dirty Three. The festival’s Food and Beverage Curator, Arron Ollington says that the goal was to strengthen the focus on the food and beverage component of the festival so that the offerings were as strong as the music and art aspects of Sugar Mountain. “We wanted to elevate all tiers so that it was an even playing field for all three components – arts, music, food and beverage,” Ollington says. “That’s why we wanted to work with vendors who you don’t often see at these events, and also catch some of the newer restaurants, like Biggie Smalls for example, which only just opened recently.” Ollington says it was important to reflect all of Melbourne’s food offerings in the lineup. “You’ve got to look after your audience, and the Sugar Mountain audience is pretty varied. We didn’t just want Northside and city restaurants being represented, so it was key to include some Southside operators too. “We had to offer a really good spectrum of menu items, crossing all sorts of styles. Obviously you’ve got to have a burger option. You have to have a vegan/vegetarian option, and that’s where Transformer came in.
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The Asian food always does well, so Hanoi Hannah, those guys were always
“Because you know this city is crazy about its food. And I think that we’ll
going to go well with rice paper rolls and banh mi. And of course we had
see more and more progress made in that area with greater food and
to have a barbecue option, with Meatmother.”
beverage options at all festivals.”
This broad lineup was coupled with the festival’s highly anticipated
A few foodie highlights of Sugar Mountain 2016:
Sensory Restaurant – a collaboration between tapas bar Bomba, design outfit Tin & Ed and electronic musicians Cut Copy to create an all-round
ST LEONARD’S HOUSE OF LOVE provided one of the best burgers I’ve
sensory experience for diners. Such was the hype that Sensory was sold
ever eaten in Melbourne and beyond. Their double cheeseburger with
out prior to festival day.
juicy beef brisket and short rib patty, melty cheese and “Leonard’s Sauce” which rivalled Maccas’ elusive Big Mac sauce, was a triumph.
Ollington says that given the prevalence of food culture in Melbourne, events need to step up to the plate when it comes to their food offering.
SHAKE SHACK, eat your heart out – the boys that have brought us delicious ribs and whiskey at Sweetwater Inn have hit the nail on the head
“I think it’s the expectation these days,” Ollington says. “You have to offer
yet again with this latest venture.
that quality, and especially with a festival like Sugar Mountain where there’s so much emphasis put on the look and feel of the entire festival with the
BILLY VAN CREAMY were keeping it simple but delicious with their classic
arts component, the music component and the food. You need to bring
artisan gelato. We chose the salty peanut butter and chocolate flavours,
them all up to the same level [of importance] and I think that’s what a lot
and weren’t disappointed – creamy, salty, chocolatey, silky goodness.
of festivals, especially in Melbourne, are really bringing to the fore.
THE JAMIESON BAR was Sugar Mountain festival’s first-ever cocktail bar and a sweet refuge from the main stages, where DJs and merry
20
festival-goers could take a load off. Our favourite was the Cork Colada - a
vermouth, and ending with a raspberry/chocolate pop rock dessert cigar,
refreshing mix of coconut-washed Jamieson, pineapple juice, citrus, bitters
the courses and matching drinks were served in an Alice In Wonderland-
and pandan tea syrup.
like environment, in time to music and specially-designed and everchanging lighting, at a fast-paced 45 minutes.
From the people that brought us Ferdydurke and the B East, BELLEVILLE’S mantra is “we do chicken” - and that they did on this warm festival day. We
“After last year’s event, we were looking into ways to elevate the food
had the Japanese fusion-ish Karaage popcorn chicken with Tonkatsu aioli,
component even further, and that’s when the idea of a seated restaurant
however we were more taken by Belleville’s soft shell crab banh mi slider
that was an interactive experience came up,” Ollington says.
– a delicious combination of deep fried soft shell crab, brioche, slaw, loads of coriander and Sriracha Kewpie mayo.
“It was pretty amazing, that kind of Sensory experience at a festival – you come into it from this daylight environment into this crazy, surreal
Our predictably Melburnian craft beer cravings were sated by SAMPLE
restaurant. The music was built like a journey and then all of the food
BREW’S On Tap Brew Bar – a carefully created bar in collaboration with
components and food reveals were all timed to match it to create this
Folk Architects which served Sample’s moreish pale ale alongside their
short, sharp interaction of 40 or so minutes. The pace was solid.
golden ale and brand new batch lager. “And that was the idea – to make the experience like a short music set, Last but not least, SENSORY RESTAURANT - the most ambitious and
working with the same timing as a music set would be, and having that
highly anticipated of all in the food component of Sugar Mountain Festival,
added to the lineup like was a set option you could slot into your day.”
was created to be a feast for the senses from start to finish. Beginning with a rice paper, jamon, manchego cheese and tomato atop a glass of sweet
21
22
EATING OUT ABBOTSFORD
KITTY BURNS 24 Acacia Place, Abbotsford. (03) 9427 0164
WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN AND ARI HATZIS
Who is Kitty Burns?
A dish which has got food Instagrammers in a tizzy is the picture perfect Eton Mess, which is definitely the neatest Eton mess I have ever seen.
She’s one of the hottest cafes in Melbourne right now, nestled in the
A sumptuous layer of creamy coconut yoghurt is topped with fresh and
Acacia Place complex in Abbotsford away from the hustle and bustle of
dehydrated strawberries, nuggets of spiced meringue, wild orange and
Victoria Street. Perched high on the banks of the Yarra River, Kitty Burns is
goji berries. Activated buckwheat clusters provide a nice textural contrast
a hidden sanctuary amongst the gum trees and wildlife, where you’ll feel a
to the creamy yoghurt, rich in protein and essential amino acids.
world away from the noise and traffic of the city. Chia puddings are taking Melbourne by storm at the moment, and this The design has been brilliantly executed by Biasol: Design Studio, with
dish at Kitty Burns has definitely stepped above the plate. Infused with
a distinct Scandinavian feel and sleek minimalist style. Blonde timber
coconut and a hint of vanilla, the pudding base is super creamy with a
frames are paired with pretty pastel blue and green accents in this lofty
lovely texture. Fleshy chunks of mango are teamed with fresh berries,
cafe. Plenty of greenery and pot plants warm up the interior, which blends
aerated coconut and caramelized buckninis to add a touch of sweetness.
in seamlessly with its natural surrounds without overpowering it. Sun
The only problem is the serving size, if you’re quite hungry.
streams in through floor to ceiling glass giving the café a bright and airy feel. There’s plenty of seating outdoors to soak up some Vitamin D on a
Another healthy option on the menu is the blueberry and lemon bircher
summer’s day or to keep your pooch company over breakfast.
muesli. Soaked in organic yoghurt, the muesli is packed with nuts and grains and finished with berries and edible flowers.
Designed by classically trained chef Aaron Duffy, the all day menu is playful and inventive, with a great blend of contemporary and traditional
If you’re in a hurry, there’s also a coffee cart outside where you can pick
classics. The ‘Meet Mr Burns’ is a meat lover’s dream and a twist on the
up a well crafted brew and one of their take away treats. There’s a great
traditional big breakfast, loaded with a dry cured bacon slab, spiced bon
range of raw cakes, pastries and doughnuts at the cabinet. For cyclists, the
bons, bacon jam, Clonakilty black pudding, eggs, mushroom, spinach and
Capital City Trail is just steps away, so Kitty Burns makes the perfect pit
gentleman’s relish. His take on the usual smashed avocado is made with
stop for a coffee drive by.
spiced Togarashi avocado paired with citrus and umami salt. With all good things come crowds, so make sure you get here early to Sweet tooths will love the Skipping Girl Tiramisu, which is cleverly served in
avoid long waits. We’ll see you there!
a terracotta pot, or the oh so decadent French toast with coffee ganache. Fancy a mac ‘n’ cheese croquette on the side? Why not! But I will try not
KITTY BURNS
to spoil all of the surprises…
24 Acacia Place, Abbotsford (03) 9427 0164
As far as the drinks menu goes, it’s definitely not one for the indecisive,
kittyburns.com.au
with a mind boggling array of super food infused smoothies, freshly made
facebook.com/Kitty-Burns
juices and naturopath crafted elixirs. Fighting off a cold? Try their ‘Immune
instagram.com/kitty.burns
Booster’, a supercharged concoction of apple peel, cinnamon, elderberry,
twitter.com/kittyburnsmelb
rosehip, clove and hibiscus tea. And let’s not forget superbly brewed coffee and Mörk hot chocolate. The only real problem is trying to choose.
23
24
EATING OUT INTERNATIONAL BANGKOK
SOEI (ร้านเส่ย) Kamphaeng Phet 5, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400, Thailand
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY CHASING A PLATE
If I could only eat at one restaurant in Bangkok it would be Soei. It’s situated
The pla koong pao features grilled butterflied jumbo river prawns which
alongside Samsen railway station and the passing roll of the trains and the
are dressed with lemongrass, tomatoes, chilli, garlic, shallots, Thai basil and
curious stares from its passengers make for an atmospheric setting. We
lime. The prawns are meaty, the yellow oil from the heads leaking out of
only ate at Soei for lunch as we’d heard that there can be a bit of a wait at
the shells and mingling with the fresh flavours of the salad. It’s delicious.
dinner time seeing as there is just one chef. And man, can he cook. But first things first. Before you sit, wander over to the 7Eleven or Family Mart on
We sample stir-fried pea shoots which are crisp and palate cleansing, spicy
the other side of the train tracks and pick up some beers. The restaurant
pork pad kra pao which is roughly minced and heady with the fragrance
will provide you with a bottle opener and buckets of ice, or if you are
of holy basil and kaffir lime, and yum kai dao - Thai fried egg salad. Gooey,
following the locals lead and drinking whisky, they’ll provide cold bottles
oozy yolks and crispy fried edges topped with herbs, garlic and a soy and
of soda water too.
lime dressing. The pad kra pao is the best we’ve ever eaten in Bangkok. And then we eat the chu chee pla too, a curry of deep fried mackerel.
If you can’t read or speak Thai (like us) you’ll be limited to the English menu,
Banish away any thoughts of “I’m not a mackerel person, it’s too oily”,
which comes with a handy photo album of the dishes available. The Thai
because this is the king of all curries. The two, whole mackerel wallow in
menu runs to about ten pages so you’re in for a treat if you’re dining with
a shallow pool of rich, creamy sauce which we fight over. The firm flesh
Thai speakers. But even so, the English menu is laden with spectacularly
of the fish marries well with the sauce and the bones are so soft you can
delicious dishes. The kaem pla too tod or fried mackerel cheeks are the
chomp right through them. It’s been four weeks since I ate this curry and I
ideal beer snack. You used to have to call ahead and book a plate of these,
have thought about it every day since. It is that good.
but they’re now a regular item on the menu. They’re crunchy and flavoured with salt and fried garlic. Dip the fried morsels in the accompanying chilli
If you have room, finish with an ow tung - a Soei classic of ice, basil seeds,
sauce and you’re away.
coffee and palm sugar. It’s sweet, creamy and helps beat the heat, for a few minutes anyway.
Fresh and robust are the words most fitting to describe the food at Soei. Each dish contains huge depth of flavour and whilst a lot are very spicy,
Visit when you have a few hours to spare and linger over the smack-you-
you can distinctly taste the levels of sweetness, sourness and saltiness.
about-the-head flavours. This is one restaurant in Bangkok you do not
Mountains of fresh herbs add a lighter note to some of the more intense
want to miss.
dishes. We eat goong chae nam pla, one of my favourites. The raw prawns, marinated in lime juice are creamy, and the combination of lime, chilli, raw
SOEI RESTAURANT (ร้านเส่ย)
garlic and wasabi makes for a pungent, intense mouthful.
Kamphaeng Phet 5, Samsen Nai, Phaya Thai, Bangkok 10400, Thailand
“To the shokunin of Japan, pursuers of perfection, for showing us the true meaning of devotion”
DEEP TRAVELS THROUGH JAPAN’S FOOD CULTURE by MATT GOULDING
Book out now
25
Paola Bacchia, from Italy On My Mind, runs small cooking classes for between four and six people in her gorgeous renovated warehouse apartment in North Fitzoy, Melbourne. It feels more like a gathering of friends with a shared love of making Italian food rather than a formal class. All classes are hands-on and you’ll be sharing the food you prepare with a glass of matched Italian or Italian style wine (or Italian mineral water if you prefer).
2016 Class Dates Saturday April 9, 2016 Crostoli and frittole – The way my mother taught me. Saturday April 30, 2016 Let’s make gnocchi Saturday May 21, 2016 Pasta making 101 Saturday June 18, 2016 Pastry masterclass- Apple strudel
FOR BOOKINGS AND MORE INFO: italyonmymind.com.au/cook-with-me/cooking-classes-in-melbourne
26
GNOCCHI [nok-ee, noh-kee; Italian nyawk-kee] noun, (used with a singular or plural verb) Italian Cookery. A dish of little dumplings made from potatoes, semolina, flour, or a combination of these ingredients. Word Origin - 1891, from Italian gnocchi, plural of gnocco, from nocchio “a knot in wood,” perhaps from a Germanic source akin to knuckle. So called for their shape. Type: Dumpling Course: Entrée or main Place of origin: Italy Main ingredients: Potatoes (or semolina or wheat flour or breadcrumbs); sometimes eggs, cheese Variations: cavatielli, gnudi, malfatti, malloreddus, strangulaprievete I find podding beans and peas to be utterly relaxing.
If you have never made ricotta gnocchi before, you will
I listen to jazz on the radio and sip herbal tea (or wine…
love how much quicker they are to make compared to
depending on the time of day) whilst I pod away, with a
potato gnocchi. I also find them less filling, so are ideal
few green gems finding their way into my mouth every
for a spring lunch.
so often. Once the ricotta gnocchi are made, the sauce is fresh They are deliciously fresh, especially the tiny peas that
and requires little cooking. I lightly blanch the peas and
seem to go “pop” when you eat them. I posted a photo
beans, and then drop them into a pan together with some
of the peas on Instagram last week and received great
melted butter and the cooked gnocchi, tossing them
comments with suggestions for dishes (eg. pea and
until are were well coated. It makes a lovely light dish
parmesan risotto, orecchiette pasta with peas). I was
and when accompanied by a glass of Sicilian Malvasia.
contemplating making risi e bisi but when I opened the fridge and spied a half-finished kilo tub of fresh ricotta,
In case you have not heard of Fabrizia Lanza, she and
I knew that it had to be ricotta gnocchi. So I pulled
her incredible cooking school are legendary. Here are a
Fabrizia Lanza’s book “Coming home to Sicily” off the
couple of links from people who have visited the school
bookshelf - it has my go-to recipe for ricotta gnocchi.
and written about it including David Leibovitz and Bea’ (La Tartine Gourmand). It therefore comes as no surprise
What I love about the recipe (actually with all of her
that I am incredibly excited to be running a five-day
recipes) is that it is simple and speaks of the land. Fabrizia
workshop at Case Vecchie with Fabrizia in September
suggests to use fresh sheep’s milk ricotta and gets it
2016.
from a local sheep farmer (…if only!). I use regular cow’s See over for recipe.
milk ricotta, the firm variety in its own draining basket.
JESSE GERNER
PIERRICK BOYER
BERNARD CHU
OWNER & CHEF
EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF
COFOUNDER & PASTRY CHEF
ALBY TOMASSI
DUNCAN & LEESA ELLIOT
DARAGH KHAN, KENT BELL,
OWNER
OWNERS
MIKE PATRICK, MYLES MUNRO OWNERS
ALICIA MCLEAY
FRANK BRESSIT & PETER
NEIL HAMBLEN
GENERAL MANAGER
MASTRO OWNERS
OWNER & GEN MANAGER
TEAGE EZARD
AUGUSTIN ORTEGA
MATT LANE
CHEF & OWNER
CHEF
OWNER
27
FABRIZIA’S RICOTTA GNOCCHI WITH PEAS, BROAD BEANS AND MINT Gnocchi di ricotta di Fabrizia con piselli, fave e menta
Serves 4 people
To make the gnocchi, put the ricotta and egg in
Lift them out with a slotted spoon, draining them
450g firm ricotta
a bowl and mash with a fork until the ricotta is
well.
1 large egg
creamy. Add the flour and parmesan cheese and
3 tablespoons flour
stir. The mixture will be quite soft. Drop a small
Whilst the gnocchi are cooking, heat the butter in
2 tablespoons parmesan cheese
handful of mixture onto a working surface that
a large frypan. Drop the cooked gnocchi into the
fine semolina for dusting
has been well dusted with fine semolina. Work
melted butter, tossing them so they are well coated.
100g butter, unsalted
the dough into a long sausage shape and cut off
Add the peas and broad beans, tossing them with
couple of handfuls each of podded peas
2-3cm portions. Roll individual gnocchi in semolina
the gnocchi and allowing them to heat through.
and podded broad beans handful baby mint leaves
and set aside. Repeat with the remaining ricotta and set aside.
pepper and salt to taste, lemon zest and plenty of
a small lemon, zest only parmesan cheese, grated
To double-pod the broad beans, drop them in
salt and pepper to taste
boiling water for couple of minutes. Drain, then pop them out of their second shell. Wash them well (as they can be a bit sticky) and set aside, Blanch the peas for about a minute in boiling salted water (and refresh in iced water). Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to the boil. Drop in about half of the gnocchi so as not to overcrowd the pan (or use two saucepans). They will rise to the surface and cook in about two minutes.
28
Serve on warmed plates, scattering freshly ground parmesan cheese. Serve immediately.
GNOCCHI WITH FERMENTED BLACK GARLIC Gnocchi con aglio nero
Serves 4 people
Place the potatoes in a large pot of water, cover and
about 3cm long, scatter a bit more flour and using
600g Blue Moon, King Edward or Desiree
bring to the boil. Reduce heat to a steady simmer
your thumb, roll the portions onto the back of a fork.
and cook about 30 minutes or until the potatoes
(Gnocchi that are rolled this way will catch more
black fermented garlic, 4 cloves, peeled
are fork tender. Quickly peel them and put them
sauce although this step is not essential).
1 extra small egg, lightly beaten
through a potato ricer (or hand mash them finely),
150g flour
adding the garlic cloves as you go. Use your hands
Lay the prepared gnocchi to one side, scattering
good pinch salt
to distrubute the black cloves – it is fine to leave
on a bit more flour and cover with a clean teatowel
freshly cracked black pepper
some larger pieces of garlic as well.
(to prevent them from drying out). Repeat until all
potatoes, washed
gnocchi are made.
75-100g unsalted butter, chopped into cubes
Whilst the potatoes are still warm, lightly flour a
Parmigiano cheese, grated, to serve
work surface, make a well in the centre and add
Place the butter in a large frypan on medium heat
freshly ground black pepper
the egg (or half a large egg if you don’t have small
and cook until it starts turning brown.
ones). Incorporate this into the surrounding potato and then scatter on half of the flour and a good
Boil a pot of salted water. Cook no more than a third
pinch of salt. Bring everything together, kneading a
of the gnocchi at a time, adding them to the boiling
bit if needed and adding a bit more flour, but only
water and cooking for a few minutes until they rise
enough to make a cohesive dough. Don’t work the
to the surface. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon,
gnocchi dough too much and form a log.
making sure excess water drains off and drop them in the pan with the brown butter. Toss and serve
Use a bit more of the remaining flour to scatter on a
on warmed plates. Scatter on plenty of Parmesan
clean work surface. Cut off a portion of dough and
cheese and freshly ground black pepper.
make it into a rope. Cut the rope into pieces that are
29
REVIEWS ROMCAFFÈ - MISCELA ESPRESSO ITALIANO BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG A new year begins and sadly in its first month we lose
brightness. There’s no commentary here about where the
an icon of music in David Bowie. A man of many faces,
beans are from and the cups aren’t presented on boards
who wasn’t scared to be an individual. In 1969 he released
with tasting notes, because Romcaffè has been roasted
a song called Space Oddity about a fictional astronaut
in Italy since 1925. Coffee is seen as an experience and a
called Major Tom who drifts into space after severing
ritual, nothing more. It needs to taste good, smell good
communication with earth. Nearly half a century later, in
and give you a boost at any time of the day. The company
2015, a unique venue opened in Smith Street Collingwood
is still run by the grandson of the founder, so quality and
called MJR TOM, which like its namesake, is a pod floating
a sense of tradition is present in every cup. If you like your
between fantasy and reality, crafted from plywood
coffee to be served with a story, then you’ll love it at MJR
and corrugated iron. And like Mr Bowie himself, owners
Tom.
Nick Tiktikakis and Harry Tsiaples have defied the rules, creating a multifunctional space that appears to be a cafe,
Romcaffè’s blend is floating around currently at these
is also a restaurant, sometimes a bar, but always warm,
establishments -
cozy and very inviting. MJR Tom - 108 Smith St Collingwood With history obviously playing a major role in the formation
The European - 161 Spring St CBD
of the business, the guys decided to buck the trend of
Trattoria Emilia - 360 Little Collins St CBD
locally roasted specialty coffee and offer a reliable Italian
The Journal - 253 Flinders Lane CBD
brew, settling on Romcaffè after a long association with
Café Paradiso - 213-215 Camberwell Rd Hawthorn East
the brand. Upon entering MJR Tom the first thing you see is
L’Hotel Gitan - 32 Commerical Rd Prahran
the stunning Victoria Arduino VA388 Black Eagle machine they use to pump out the Miscela Espresso Italiano as their
romcaffe.com.au
house blend. This coffee is silky and buttery yet punchy
warwick@romcaffe.com.au
enough to withstand the addition of milk and equally
03 9416 6550
delicious taken black, where you’ll pick up the underlying
BLACKMAN BREWERY - REGINALD INDIAN PALE ALE WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON It’s January and it’s 36 degrees. After a quick swim I’m
So, sitting here in the brewery with Renn, I’m drinking my
sitting in a brewery smack bang in the middle of Torquay.
favourite of the Blackman’s range, a Reginald India Pale Ale
Life is good and the beer is better.
named after Renn’s grandad.
Torquay has always been a favourite holiday spot of mine.
First thing’s first – it’s delicious and surprisingly moreish
I’ve determined the town is synonymous with three things;
for a big IPA. As Renn explains, that’s exactly what he was
surf, a relaxing vibe and passionate locals. Until 2013, it was
trying to do. “My main driving factor is drinkability. You
also known in beer circles for its lack of the good stuff,
need to be able to enjoy three or four pints in one sitting.
which meant I was always in a frenzy to stock up a large
Otherwise, what’s the point! I make beers that suit the way
enough Esky to last a couple of weeks.
I like to drink beers, which I guess is every brewer’s dream.”
Thankfully, over the past two years, the courageous, yet
Leaning towards an English IPA in terms of its prominent
tentative acceptance by some local venues like Front
malt base, “Reggie”, definitely has the American hop
Beach and Bottle of Milk to stock flavoursome beer meant
influence of citrus, peach and pine aromas leading to a
more room in the boot of the car. Well-timed as it turned
very well balanced beer that you can enjoy over a long
ABV: 6%
out, as local boy Renn Blackman and his wife Jess were well
afternoon session. It’s good. Really good. I would even go
STYLE: India Pale Ale
down the path of establishing Blackman’s Brewery on busy
out on a limb to say that this is one of the best IPA’s I’ve
SERVING TEMP: 4-6 degrees
Bell Street, finally opening in August 2014. All of a sudden,
tasted by an Australian brewer.
ORIGIN: Torquay, Victoria
Torquay had a little craft beer scene happening!
FOOD PAIRING: Spicy fish tacos from the
Can’t make it to Torquay any time soon? Never fear, a new
brewery kitchen
Fast forward to January 2016, and Renn says the locals’ and
canning line is expected to arrive any day now, so look out
PRICE (RRP): $10.50 a pint, $6 a pot from
tourists’ taste buds have developed in leaps and bounds, as
for the Blackman’s range in cans starting with yes, you
the brewery
evidenced by their Berry Berlinner Weisse (a cloudy, sour
guessed it – Reginald IPA!
BUY IT HERE: blackmansbrewery.com.au
white beer made with local berries) selling out in under three weeks.
30
GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS Riesling 2015 Heathcote, Victoria RRP: $22
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
RICE NOODLE FISH: Deep Travels Through Japan’s Food Culture By Matt Goulding
RRP: $45 With Australian tourists flocking to Japan in numbers greater than ever before, Rice, Noodle, Fish couldn’t have arrived in a better moment. Part travel guide, part cultural celebration, this is the perfect book for anyone obsessed with food (and aren’t we all!). Celebrated traveller and writer, Matt Goulding, navigates the intersection between food, history and culture. Organised into seven key regions, Rice, Noodle, Fish explores Japan’s most intriguing culinary disciplines in an informative, intelligent,
Published by Hardie Grant Books Avaliable in all good bookstores
jovial manner. From the kaiseki of Kyoto and sushi masters of Tokyo, to the street food of Osaka and the ramen of Fukuoka, Rice, Noodle, Fish countless facts you never knew and would never have guessed. It’s a wonderfully detailed, artful book that will have you appreciating your Japanese adventure that much more.
UNION ELECTRIC BAR Look closely at this label. Amongst the delicate sketches of snakes, animal skulls, snails, funghi and leaf matter, there lies the unmistakable form of the Michelin Man... Why on earth is the Michelin Man present on a wine made in the Heathcote region, you ask? Adam Foster, is your answer. Adam Foster was a chef in a former life. Coming from a background of high-end food, there is no question as to how his path crossed with the Michelin Man. Today, Foster has carved a formidable path in the wine world under his labels Foster E Rocco and Syrahmi and is all about creating his own garden of earthly delights. He moved with fiancé Pip a couple of years ago to the central Victorian town of Tooboorac to start the country dream and aims to set up his own vineyard on the property amongst the stunning granite landscape. This Riesling is not yet from estate-grown fruit, but hails from a 19-year old vineyard belonging to his nearby friends of the Shelmerdine family. The warmer climate of Heathcote has created a full fleshed and rounded style of Riesling, with all the curves of the Michelin Man form. You will be tantalised by flavours of musk and candied banana cuddled by a mellow and gentle acidity and a dry finish. Foster would probably have a fancy meal in mind to accompany this with, but we found it a delightful accompaniment to fresh bruschetta on a warm summers day. Stockists: Banks Fine Wine in Macedon or ask at your local independent wine store
WORDS PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO BAR/D UP In collaboration with Bombay Sapphire Usually when there is a bolt of lightning, you are guaranteed mass destruction. However, when this bolt hit Heffernan Lane, a new watering hole called Union Electric Bar, magically appeared. Light bulbs and pineapples abound in this indoor/outdoor space, which boasts one of the most delicious cocktail menus in town, celebrating freshly pressed juices blended with spirits, to produce some truly tempting cocktails. There are also pitchers to share and a nice little range of rum, Japanese whisky and craft beers too. Located off Chinatown, you can order tasty yum cha tidbits off the menu which will arrive piping hot from New Kum Den next door, including dumplings, spring rolls and chicken ribs, perfect to soak up the copious amounts of alcohol you’ll consume while here. It’s worth noting that this bar is a favourite amongst the hospitality crowd and you’ll find some of Melbourne’s finest bartenders popping in here for drinks at all hours to catch up with manager Huw. In an 1890’s building which once housed the Union Electric Lighting Company, this place exudes a warmth which has lit up a Melbourne lane way and shows no sign of fading away into the night anytime soon. Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video.
Union Electric
INSTAGRAM - @bardupmelb
13 Heffernan Lane, Melbourne.
FACEBOOK - facebook.com/bardupmelb
0450 186 466 | unionelectric.com.au
31
OUT AND ABOUT THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY AND JACOB’S CREEK INAUGURAL GRAND SLAM TENNIS PARTY Photography: Lucas Dawson
SOUTH MELBOURNE NIGHT MARKET
South Wharf’s General Assembly and Jacob’s Creek teamed up this month to host one of the Australia Open’s most coveted events, the inaugural Grand Slam Tennis Party.
including some of Jacob’s Creeks’s finest drops and were treated to racquet stringing demonstrations by world-class Lou Smarrelli from Prelli Tennis.
Guests sampled delicious food by head chef Dareen Mercaldi sampled drinks and cocktails,
thegeneralassembly.com.au
The South Melbourne Market has once again lit up the streets this summer with the South Melbourne Night Market playing host to a wonderful array of food stalls, food trucks, live music, crafters and makers. If you’ve
not had a chance to check it out yet, we strongly recommend you make plans to get down there before it all wraps up for another year on March 10. southmelbournenightmarket.com.au
THE DIARY
somethFORing
March 20, 2016
THE PENINSULA PICNIC A FOOD, WINE & MUSIC GATHERING Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
The Peninsula Picnic is the most extensive food, wine and music gathering on the Mornington Peninsula. A truly special day showcasing the very best local chefs and restaurants, vignerons and vineyards, growers and producers, orchardists and gourmet storeowners. Experience the secrets of Mornington Peninsula all in one beautiful location. Some ofthe region’s finest local restaurants will be on show including, Montalto, Terminus at The Flinders Hotel, The Long Table, Dee’s Kitchen, Max’s at Red Hill Estate and DOC Mornington to serve picnickers delicious treats from fresh, local and seasonal produce as well as Melbourne’s finest in Pope Joan and Ian Curley.
EVERYONE
EAT YOUR WORDS - FOOD AS A MEMORY
17-19 March 2016
du Fermier, 42 High Street, Trentham, Victoria
MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS
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17, 18, 19 March 2016 New additions to the food line up include The Green Olive, Cook and Norman Trattoria, Merricks General Wine Storeand Paringa Estate. Three of this year’s featured restaurants were awarded ‘hats’ in 2015 The Age Good Food Guide Awards including Paringa Estate, Montalto and Terminus at the Flinders Hotel. Tickets are now on sale: peninsulapicnic.com.au
March 4, 2016
MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPO 2016 (MICE) Melbourne Showgrounds, Epsom Road, Ascot Vale
The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is back for 2016, with an incredible range of new features to engage every segment of the supply chain.  Now in its fifth year, MICE has become the largest coffee-dedicated event in the region, and one of the biggest in the world.
Join Kate Hill alongside Annie Smithers, Cate Kennedy and Jane Wilson for a writers workshop. Not only will Kate be sharing her knowledge, but du Fermier are humbled to also welcome novelist Cate Kennedy and Jane Wilson, Annie’s former editor at ‘Epicure’ and now at Hardie Grant Publishers. The day promises to be full of fascinating banter and insights into four very talented women. The workshop will take place on Friday morning followed by a light summer lunch. It will be held at du Fermier. More on Kate Hill Kate is an American living in Gascony, she’s lived there for a very long time now, first on a barge and now in a farmhouse. She has an amazing cooking school and is a talented writer and a veritable expert on cassoulet, amongst other things. Please call or email to book your place. $185 (includes morning tea, lunch and the workshop.)
Café owners, roasters, baristas, equipment manufacturers, distributors and service providers are among the more than 10,000 visitors who flock to this event every year.
Friday Nights in February 5pm - 9pm
NORTH SOUTH FEAST WEST
Immigration Museum, 400 Flinders Street Melbourne
Every Friday night in February from 5 – 9pm, the museum’s courtyard will be transformed into a sensational evening of summer delights. Visitors to these free events will enjoy the last of those warm summer evenings with pop-up bars, authentic food from around the globe, live music and DJs. What sets Courtyard Cantina apart from food truck pop-ups and other food events is Immigration Museum’s engagement with diverse communities. Multicultural collaborations are truly at the heart of everything we do, and our North South Feast events are a way of breaking down barriers through the celebration of cultural diversity’ said Immigration Museum’s Program Manager, Eleni Kaponis. Courtyard Cantina brings together some of Melbourne’s favourite food vendors including Mankouche and Senior BBQ, Burn City Smokers and Feast of Merit. Courtyard Cantina is the first of a series of North South Feast West events at Immigration Museum; now in its second year. These unique events form part of a growing range of adult programs at the Immigration Museum designed to deliver authentic cultural experiences that celebrate the diversity of the greater Melbourne community. facebook.com/NorthSouthFeastWest
The team have a lot planned for MICE 2016:ASCA Australia Barista Championship – the country’s best baristas will battle-it-out for the chance to compete in the world comps. Roasters Alley – expect to see Australia’s best roasters serving their coffees. Australian International Coffee Awards – the AICA celebrates coffee roasting excellence from Australia and around the world ASCA Roasting Championship – this new competition will test roasters by giving them the same coffee to roast to various profiles. World class coffee training and education – we’ll be hosting various coffee classes for professionals and home enthusiasts throughout the event. GrowSpace – the place to met and connect with green bean traders and growers. PLUS! The Gram Store will be POPPING UP at Stand 4 with some amazing special offers, samples and giveaways! 1 Day Trade Pass: $30.00 1 Day Public Pass: $30.00 3 Day Trade Pass: $65.00 Coffee and Cake (entry in MICE and Cake Expo): $30.00 internationalcoffeeexpo.com
March 5, 2016
HOW TO DRINK (INSIDER’S GUIDE) The Dispensary Enoteca, Chancery Lane, Bendigo
An afternoon of drink demystification debauchery. Revered Melbourne bar author and drinks guru Michael Harden and renowned regional boozehound Tim Baxter take you on an epic drinking journey of enlightenment. Wine is a brilliant drink – but it’s one of many. Melbourne’s laneway bar and drinks expert, The Age Epicure writer and Australian Gourmet Traveller columnist Michael Harden, joins renowned Central Victorian drinks expert and boozehound Tim Baxter, for an afternoon of education, imbibing, frivolity and demystification of drink culture. Decadent food will be served as we light-heartedly teach you all the insider secrets about how to make drinks properly. We will show you tricks to add cachet and pizzazz to your dinner parties and help you understand the culture surrounding cocktails, spirits, beer and aperitifs. Mr. Tom Waits will provide the soundtrack. Cost: $145 Bookings: T(03) 5444 5885 This event is part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival 2015. For a full list of events taking place for the festival go to: .melbournefoodandwine.com.au/festival
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ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY BENDIGO TOURISM 51-67 Pall Mall, Bendigo Phone: 03 5434 6060 bendigotourism.com CEDAR HOSPITALITY 223 - 231 Brunswick Road Brunswick Phone: 03 9387 4455 cedarhospitality.com CHEF’S HAT 131 Cecil St South Melbourne Phone: 03 9682 1441 chefshat.com.au
HARDIE GRANT BOOKS Ground Floor Building 1 658 Church St, Richmond Phone: 03 8520 6444 hardiegrant.com.au/books SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET Corner of Coventry and Cecil Streets, South Melbourne PHONE: 03 9209 6295 southmelbournemarket. com.au
SPIRAL FOODS Unit 12, 51 Moreland Road Coburg PHONE: 8616 7800 spiralfoods.com.au SQUARE sales-au@squareup.com squareup.com/au
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EVERYONE 17-19 March 2016 MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS
YARRA VALLEY DAIRY 70-80 McMeikans Rd, Yering yvd.com.au
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DISCOVER FOOD GOLD IN BENDIGO
CELEBRATING THE MELBOURNE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL BENDIGO BLUES TRAM & UNDERGROUND BANQUET Friday 4 March & Sunday 6 March Begin with a beverage at Rocks, before ambling down to the Bendigo Blues Tram to experience one of Victoria’s finest contemporary blues artists amidst the historic streetscapes. Return to Rocks for a three course banquet dinner – six shared savoury dishes and dessert selection to die for.
REGIONAL WORLD’S LONGEST LUNCH – BENDIGO Friday 4 March • Rosalind Park Take a seat at our long table in the idyllic surrounds of Rosalind Park. Savour six regionally sourced courses presented by Wine Bank on View, superbly matched to the best wines from the Bendigo wine region.
COURTYARD COOK FEST Sunday 6 March • Rocks on Rosalind Head down a private laneway and discover a hidden celebration of outdoor feasting, music and fun. Watch the chefs from Rocks cook a variety of dishes before you on the massive outdoor grill and the Rocks Super-Wok.
PADDOCK TO PARK CARNIVORE’L Sunday 13 March • Bendigo Botanic Gardens In the autumn sunshine we’ll smoke, roast and sizzle the meats and produce of our region. Meet chefs, farmers and producers, taste local wines, craft beer and cider, and relax with family friendly entertainment. Choose from local breads, chutneys, cheeses, jams and condiments to accompany your lunch; build the ultimate carnivore’s feast from the central hub or simply graze your way around the stall holders. Vegetarians are also catered for, along with those with a sweet tooth.
RESTAURANT EXPRESS For 2 weeks in March • Public INN and The Woodhouse Enjoy a two-course express lunch menu and matching beverage designed especially for the Festival at a participating restaurant. $40 per person.
MORE AUTUMN EVENTS BENDIGO ART GALLERY AND TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX PRESENT MARILYN MONROE 5 March - 10 July 2016
BENDIGO MOONLIGHT MARKET 12 March
BENDIGO CRAFT BEER & CIDER FESTIVAL 19 March
PICK, STOMP, WINE AND DINE Gentlemen Prefer Blondes © 1953 and 2016 Fox
19 March
Above image: Ewen Bell
@explorebendigo #explorebendigo
For more information, tickets and short break accommodation packages, freecall the Bendigo Visitor Centre on 1800 813 153 or visit:
www.bendigotourism.com SASI 212334
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