GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 59 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
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9 - 11 MARCH 2016 9:00AM TO 4:00PM DAILY THE ATRIUM, FEDERATION SQUARE CELEBRATE THE BEST OF MELBOURNE’S COFFEE, FOOD, ART, CRAFTS AND FASHION AT A FREE PUBLIC MARKET EVENT.
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CONTENTS EATING OUT TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY Lisa Holmen ON IT BURGERS Burgers of Melbourne THE SPOT The Hungry Babushka BRAE Megan Osborne
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FEATURE
COOKING
REGULARS
TALKING IN TONGUES
TORTA DI PERA E CIOCCOLATO PEAR AND CHOCOLATE CAKE Emiko Davies
CONTRIBUTORS
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NEWLY OPENED
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AROUND THE TRAPS
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THINGS WE LOVE
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REVIEWS
32
OUT AND ABOUT
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THE DIARY
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GRAM DIRECTORY
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A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING ‘WINESPEAK’
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20
Charley May
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INTERVIEW CHEF JACQUES LA MERDE
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A.K.A. CHRISTINE FLYNN Lauren Bruce
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ON THE COVER: LATTE A latte is a coffee drink made with espresso and steamed milk. The term as used in English is a shortened form of the Italian caffè latte, caffelatte or caffellatte, which means “milk coffee”. The word is also sometimes spelled latté or lattè in English with different kinds of accent marks, which can be a hyperforeignism or a deliberate attempt to indicate that the word is not pronounced according to the rules of English orthography. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
COVER DESIGN
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Jess Hourigan
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EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren Bruce DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
CHARLEY MAY Charley May is a biologist by training and a wine communicator by profession. When she’s not at the tasting bench or crafting silky words, you’ll find her on a river somewhere pursuing her other great love... Fly-fishing. TWITTER: @charleymay1
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia THE HUNGRY BABUSKHA MEGAN OSBORNE Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
I bake like a mofo, but I can’t possibly eat it all, so
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
LA DONNA DEL VINO
I’m a part-time treat-pusher. thehungrybabushka.com INSTAGRAM: thehungrybabushka FACEBOOK: TheHungryBabushka
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try
LISA HOLMEN After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015. lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property with her husband Wootten. ladonnadelvino.com TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
BURGERS OF MELBOURNE Burgers of Melbourne is run by one Melbourne guy that just loves burgers. I eat, picture and review the burgers of Melbourne.
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DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.
burgersofmelbourne.com.au
FACEBOOK: imagesds INSTAGRAM: dsimages TWITTER: imagesDS E: deany76@gmail.com
the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
INSTAGRAM: burgersofmelbourne
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
NOW OPEN
STKBB FOOD TRUCK
CUCINA & CO
GEORGE JONES EATERY
OPENED: January 2016 Grosvenor Hotel’s premium take-away option, St Kilda Burger Bar (STKBB) is now on wheels, extending its commitment to sourcing and preparing patties made from 100 per cent certified Victorian grass fed Angus beef state-wide.
OPENED: January 2016 There’s good news for bayside residents who have a penchant for bona fide Italian food. Brighton has a brand-new local that’s showcasing what Italians do best – pizza e vino. Cucina & Co is a 65-seat Italian restaurant summoned by industry stalwart Riccardo Bianchini and backed by his partners Peter Aloi of Cafe Duomo and Peter Kisvarda.
OPENED: February 4, 2016 Realising that there was a gap in the Pascoe Vale market for an all day eatery serving modern plates and excellent coffee, Paul Vernuccio decided to open his own. With two cafés already under his belt (Cheeky Monkey and Rubber Duck), Vernuccio created George Jones Eatery, a 140-seater venue that opened on February 4th 2016.
Cucina & Co was designed by fellow Italian, Dominic Ridolfi of Ridolfi Architecture, who sought out a minimalist aesthetic with an informal and chic look. Stone, steel and leather come together to create a space that’s inviting and modern and a move away from the tired old Italian eatery.
Paying tribute to the first business owner in the area (the original Mr Jones opened a general store 74 years ago), George Jones espouses the same three ethos as Vernuccio’s other two establishments: simplicity, honesty and consistency. More importantly, Vernuccio wanted to create a retreat for nearby residents to proudly claim as their local haunt.
Convenience and quality have always been a focus for the STKBB, the first of its kind to be situated in a Melbourne pub drive-through. The truck will now make its range of burgers even more accessible via regular appearances at festivals and activations. Already set to appear at a range of events around Victoria, including St Jerome’s Laneway Festival and Near the Little Sea beachside cinema, STKBB on wheels is the newest addition to Melbourne’s food truck craze.
With a focus on authentic food and cheeky, charming service dished out with classic Italian flair, diners can pick from a seasonal a la carte menu, which includes wood-fired pizzas, homemade gnocchi, and daily specials.
burger.melbourne/food-truck
325 NEW STREET, BRIGHTON
facebook.com/STKBB
facebook.com/Cucina-Co
instagram.com/stkburgerbar
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Assisting Vernuccio is General Manager Pim Muter and Consulting Chef Jason Shiong (ex-Longrain and Di Bella Coffee Roasting Warehouse) 15C PASCOE STREET, PASCOE VALE facebook.com/GeorgejonesEatery
AROUND THE TRAPS MICE 2016 EXPANDS TO INCLUDE COFFEE WEEK The Melbourne International Coffee Expo (MICE) has brought industry professionals from all over Australia to our coffee famous city for the past four years. The biggest names representing some of the world’s biggest brands fly to Melbourne for the week, to network, and to engage with their clients. Winners of the Australian Specialty Coffee Association (ASCA) regional championships fly to the city to compete in the national competitions, as do ASCA judges, sponsors and supporters. MICE is an opportunity for knowledge leaders to come together. On top of that, MICE’s public day is creating a bigger buzz with the general community each year. With so much talent in one place, it’s only natural that events have begun springing up around the time of the show each year. With this in mind, MICE is introducing Melbourne Coffee Week, and encouraging cafés, roasters and everyone else in the industry to get involved. From 10 – 19 March, the coffee community is encouraged to put on a party, introduce a special offer, invite coffee lovers to taste their brews, expand their knowledge, launch a new product, or celebrate coffee in whichever way they see fit.
Red
The Melbourne Coffee Week website will provide a space to advertise these events and one central location for consumers to find out what’s happening. Registration will include media support through, MICE’s databases, MICE’s Media Partners and Melbourne Coffee Week’s social media channels. There are currently a number of exciting events registered, which we would love to see you at, kicking off with Australian Pura Latte Art Championship on 4 – 5 March, Queensbridge Square – to find out what else’s happening in March or to register an event click go to: MELBOURNECOFFEEWEEK.COM.AU
NEW
Steelite “Craft” Exclusive to Cedar
cedarhospitality.com
223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com
Basement 141 Flinders Lane Melbourne 3000 +61 3 9650 3155
Adam D’ Sylva Chef/Owner
20 Duckboard Place Melbourne 3000 +61 3 9650 3155
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EATING OUT SOUTH YARRA
TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY 3 Tivoli Road, South Yarra
WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN, BEC HUDSON AND ALBERT COMPER
There’s a delicious aroma on Tivoli Road, which has hordes of hungry locals
Bread is a definite focus here and is a craft, which James likens to an art.
and tourists salivating at the slightest whiff. Follow your nose towards the
Ogle at the impressive array of expertly crafted bread stacked neatly on the
lingering smell of freshly baked breads and pastries and you’ll soon find one
wooden shelves. Each loaf is baked fresh each morning and is sold out on
of South Yarra’s most popular haunts, the Tivoli Road Bakery, just a stone’s
most days. There’s spelt, soy, linseed, multigrain and rye, just to name a few.
throw from Toorak Road.
All breads are sourdough based, made using locally milled, organic flour and baked on a stone hearth. The baking team live by the philosophy: “Great
Hailing from Penzance in West Cornwall, Head Baker, Michael James owns
bread that’s good for you should be made using only flour, water, salt and
the bakery with his wife Pippa. Formerly known as MoVida Bakery, where
wild yeast.” No additives, improvers or stabilisers here.
James was Head Baker, the establishment was renamed Tivoli Road Bakery after the duo took the reigns in 2013. Their long-term labour of love has
According to James, baking bread is a long process, which needs to be
since gone from strength to strength due to their commitment to baking
timed to perfection. “We only use flour, water and salt and we mill a small
quality products with attention and care.
percentage of our flour to keep it fresh and full of nutrients and oils. We do not use added gluten or ascorbic acid. We like to keep it natural and simple
Open daily for breakfast and lunch, the artisan bakery café offers a
with our organic flour,” he says.
sumptuous range of treats to satisfy the fussiest of taste buds. From freshly baked loaves of sourdough, to buttery croissants and salted caramel filled
Come here early to enjoy the best range of mouth watering cakes and
doughnuts, rest assured, you’ll be more than looked after here.
pastries from the front cabinet, which will have sweet-tooths quivering with joy at a single glance. Doughnuts are crispy and golden, oozing with
With a sleek contemporary fit out, the bakery has a semi-Scandinavian feel
decadent fillings like salted caramel and lemon curd, while Danish pastries
with its use of blonde timber and minimalist décor. Tables are limited and fill
are laden with fresh fruit including an incredibly decadent strawberry and
quickly at peak times. Sit in the heart of the action at the communal table
pistachio number. And that’s just the start of it.
overlooking the kitchen and watch pastries baked fresh before your eyes, or pull up a bar seat by the window and people watch. If you’re lucky (or
After winning a number of awards, their hot cross buns have developed a
early), nab one of the prized outdoor tables on tree-lined Tivoli Road and
cult status in Melbourne. They have a glistening golden, sticky glaze and
enjoy a treat with your pooch. It’s welcoming and friendly, and refreshingly
are studded with plenty of fruit, sultanas and a subtle touch of spice and
unpretentious.
nutmeg. The texture is lovely and moist and is delicious eating as is or toasted and smothered in butter. But be prepared to come early, with all
The bakery has searched far and wide to use premium local produce,
good things in Melbourne come crowds. In their first day of sale this year
including St David Dairy, Wholegrain Milling organic flour and free-range
they sold out within the hour.
eggs from the Grampians. On the all day menu there’s a granola teamed with fresh fruit and organic yoghurt, a nicely prepared olive toast with
There’s so much to love about Tivoli Road Bakery. It makes me want to move
heirloom tomatoes, ricotta and white balsamic and my personal favourite
to South Yarra just to be a local, but my hips would never forgive me!
– the lovage cured salmon on rye, remoulade and mustard leaf. Freshly cut sandwiches (available from 11am) are chock full of delicious gourmet fillings,
TIVOLI ROAD BAKERY
and sell out like hotcakes. For something a little “meatier” you can’t go past
3 Tivoli Road, South Yarra
a good old-fashioned sausage roll or a gourmet pie washed down with one
(03) 9041 4345
of their iced lattes or a Small Batch espresso.
tivoliroad.com.au facebook.com/Tivoli-Road-Bakery | instagram.com/tivoliroadbakery
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ON IT BURGERS DOUBLE HERO
ON IT BURGERS 349-351 Victoria Street, Abbotsford | 930 Burwood Highway, Ferntree Gully
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BURGERS OF MELBOURNE
On It Burgers has been rated one of Melbourne’s burger venues by a many
There wasn’t a whole lot you could fault with this burger - the patties were
burger connoisseur. Being in the far eastern suburb of Ferntree Gully
cooked medium, the house sauce was on point and the cheese was melted
however, has made it difficult for many Melburnians to taste what has made
to perfection. The patty size is 120 grams, so adding a second patty is highly
On It so popular. In January 2016, On It Burgers expanded, and opened its
recommended.
second franchise in the inner suburb of Abbotsford. Next off the bat, I gave their famous Bacon Jammy a shot. This is the burger I’ve visited On It Burgers a number of times over the past few years. I’ve
which made On It famous out in the East, so I felt it was only fitting to give
sampled four of their most popular burgers, tasted a range of exciting
this one a go.
milkshakes, fell in love with their onion rings and have to agree with those who have eaten there before me, that On It Burgers is definitely up there as
Consisting of two grass fed beef, two slices of American cheese, pickles,
one of Melbourne’s best burger joints.
BACON JAM and smoky On It sauce, this burger was utter brilliance. The awesomeness of the bacon jam hits you at the very first bite. Cooked to
My On It experience began with the popular, Double Hero: two grass fed
perfection, this special addition is like nothing I have ever tasted before.
beef patties, two slices of American cheese, lettuce, red onion, pickle with
Sweet, yet smokey – it is a flavour that makes you crave more after every
Hero sauce, topped with onion rings.
bite.
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ON IT BURGERS SPICY CHICK ON IT BURGERS BACON JAMMY
ON IT BURGERS ONION RINGS
On my third visit I sampled the chicken option, Spicy Chick, consisting of
As a side note, the onion rings are phenomenal and would have to be the
fried chicken, Sriracha mayo, slaw and lettuce on a sexy black a bun. The
best some of the best I have ever had! They are the perfect accompaniment
fried chicken was juicy and crunchy and the slaw and crisp lettuce made the
with these burgers and are a must order when visiting On It. And the dipping
perfect accompaniments.
sauce they come with… magic!
Finishing up my burger adventure at On It, I ordered The Blackbeard. A soft
ON IT BURGERS
shell crab burgers with Sriracha, slaw, coriander and Hero sauce also on a
349-351 Victoria Street, Abbotsford
black bun.
930 Burwood Highway, Ferntree Gully
Ironically, the Blackbeard is a burger I would usually avoid when hitting up a
onitburgers.com.au
burger restaurant. Not that there is anything wrong with soft shell crab, only
facebook.com/onitburgers
because I tend to gravitate towards the beef options, with chicken the next
instagram.com/onitburgers
on my hit list. Having said that, I really enjoyed this burger. While coriander may not be everyone’s cup of tea, mixed with the Sriracha it turned out to be a great inclusion and really enhanced all the other flavours including the crab itself.
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“With their wealth of knowledge Chef’s Hat knows your restaurant requirements before you do. Their advice is genuine, their prices competitive and they are an amazing support to any new or established restaurant.”
Tony Tsiakos - Manager Aaron Kahya - Chef AT THE WELL
We’ve setup a few cafes from scratch in the last
“We have been a regular customers of Chef’s Hat
few years. Every cafe site poses new challenges
(South Melbourne) for several years due to their
and obstacles in terms of equipment, floor plan,
proximity to our restaurant located in Southbank.
work flow, maximizing seating. You’d think after
With our new restaurant, in the Eastern suburbs,
the fourth or fifth cafe it would eventually get
we continue to work with Chef’s Hat due to the
easier. We find things which work for us, and we
great service and range provided by Rusty & the
carry them on to the next business, and things
Chef’s Hat team. We have recently completed an
which don’t we look for alternatives. Chef’s Hat
expansive fit out for a 250 seat restaurant at Knox
has been a staple since the first place we setup in
City Shopping centre and find Chef’s Hat an ideal
2011. They put their name and reputation behind
partner for virtually all our kitchen and shop fit-
the products they sell. It literally is a one-stop
out requirements. Always very prompt in ensuring
shop for everything you’ll need to open a cafe.
orders are placed and dispatched for quick
Their crockery is second to none. Pricing is as
delivery, they have an extensive range and always
always competitive. Communication from the
offer competitive pricing. I highly recommend
sales team is impeccable.
choosing Chef’s Hat as your restaurant supplier.”
Hugh Hindle – Owner
Steve Bozinov - Owner
BILLY’S KITCHEN KNOX OZONE
SHORT STRAW
“I highly recommend Chef’s Hat for their service, quality and support. The team are knowledgeable and helpful, and they have a wide range quality products to choose from. Their delivery service makes getting your supplies that much easier - I love that they deliver right to my kitchen!”
John McLeay - Executive Chef
RED SPICE ROAD QV & BURMA LANE
“Great location, competitive prices, attentive and well informed staff and a sales rep that thrives to get your stock delivered in no time. It is always a great excuse to duck out of the kitchen and spend some time looking for some innovative products. “
Egor Rodichkin - Executive Chef THE BOAT BUILDERS YARD & RIVERLAND BAR & CAFE
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SHORT STRAW
AT THE WELL
BILLY’S KITCHEN
RED SPICE ROAD
THE BOAT BUILDERS YARD & RIVERLAND
“I love shopping at Chef’s Hat because the customer service is fantastic, making it really easy to set up my new business”
Bradley Johnston – Head Chef & Owner
CANTEEN (STH MELB MARKET)
“Chef’s Hat is the place to go when you want to buy anything and everything from drinking straws and tea light candles all the way through to ovens and larger items, the service they provide is second to none and they are always there for me when I need advice or assistance. It really is Melbourne’s chefs and passionate cook’s one stop shop for everything food and kitchen related.”
David Schofield - Executive Chef
MEAT FISH WINE
“We have always found Chef’s Hat to be so easy
“Chef’s Hat was our first choice when setting
to deal with even though we are interstate. Their
up a new business in hospitality, the service
service is very efficient and if they don’t have the
and convenience is something we couldn’t
item that we require they will do their best to
look past. The range and quality of their
source it for us”
products has given us the confidence moving forward now and into the future.”
Sue Bracegirdle – Owner
BRACEGIRDLE’S HOUSE OF
Matt Kennedy - Head Chef
FINE CHOCOLATE
UNCOMMON.
“I have been dealing with Chef’s Hat for over 5 years and the service, variety of products and pricing have been fantastic. They are always available to tailor a solution to our needs and have been right there with us as our business has grown.”
Shane Stafford – Owner & Chef
RICE PAPER SCISSORS
CANTEEN
MEAT FISH WINE
UNCOMMON
BRACEGIRDLE’S HOUSE OF FINE CHOCOLATE
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RICE PAPER SCISSORS
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
BABE’S EGGS, SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET Nestled in West Aisle in the South Melbourne Market, Babe’s Eggs have taken to the Market’s no caged eggs policy with gusto. The Market launched their We Care about the Chicken and the Egg campaign in November 2014 and since then no restaurants, cafes or egg resellers are using or selling caged eggs. Babe’s only stocks free range eggs including some farmed at the RSPCA approved 1800 hens per hectare, to their delicious Willow Zen range from a pasture-fed free range egg farm where the hens roam at their 130 hens per hectare ratio. It’s not only local eggs on offer, they also sell a huge range of local honey including Jarrah, Grey Box, Clover, Red Gum, Iron Bark and Local Flora varieties to name a few. They also make VISIT BABE’S EGGS AT STALL 164
their own raspberry, blackberry, strawberry and summerberry
SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
jams.
FOR FOR
EVERYONE MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS MELBOURNE SHOWGROUNDS
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5,416 likes chefjacqueslamerde: FEELIN PRETTY BANGED UP 2DAY BROS. NOT ONLY DID I CUT MYSELF REAL BAD ON A MICROPLANE, BUT I JUST GOT DUMPED *AGAIN*!!!!! APPARNTLY IM “MARRIED 2 MY JOB” AND “NOT FUN 2 BE AROUND” AND ALSO “HAVE KIND OF LET MYSELF GO”!!! GEEZ BROS, AT LEAST I HAVE JOSE TO HOLD ME WHILE I CRY-EAT ICE CREAM IN THE WALKIN. DONT WORRY BOUT ME THO BROS, IM STILL GOING TO RALLY AND CRUSH SERVICE W/ THIS V. TIGHT DESSERT FREESTYLE FT. PEANUT BUTTER DRUMSTICK CONE, GENERIC BANANA GAS STATION MUFFIN CONCASSE, SMUCKERS CHOCOLATE TOPPIN, BUTTERSCOTCH SNACK PACK CRE1MA, HONEY TEDDY GRAMS EARTH AND YELLO FRUIT LOOPS GARNISH!!!! #alannismorrisettepandoranonstop #dessertlife #cheflife #theartofplating #gastroart #plateswagger #soignéallday #drumsticks #snackpacks #foodart #nextlevel #real #checkoutmytinderprofilepls
2,463 likes chefjacqueslamerde: WE R 100 P FULLY BOOKED 4 ALL FIVE SEATINGS AND OUR INTERN WAITED UNTIL 3:15 TO CALL IN SICK!!!! LIKE WUT WORLD ARE THESE KIDS LIVIN IN THAT THEY THINK CHEFS GET SICK DAYS??? U THINK I DONT GET HEADACHES OR COUGH DUE TO COLD????!!!!! I DO BROS, BUT U KNO WUT I TAKE IT LIKE A MAN AND I EAT A FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH AND I LISTEN 2 SOME KENNY ROGERS AND I GET MY BUTT 2 WORK!!!! EXPECT SERVICE 2 BE EPIC 2NITE EVEN W/ ONE MAN DOWN!!! HALF OF A KFC SCORCHER DOUBLEDOWN, INVERTED 4 OZ RAMEKIN OF GREEN COLESLAW, BILIGUAL PLUM SAUCE DEUX FOIS, ROSE PETALS AND FOIE GRAS!!! #kidsthesedays #cheflife #scorcher #doubledown #kfc #invertedcoleslaw #tweezers #soigné #negativespace #plumsauce #elegant #finedining #theartofplating #gastroart #fourmagazine #chefsifig #kennyrogers #ijustdroppedin #toseewhatcondition #myconditionwasin
INTERVIEW INTERNATIONAL CHEF
CHEF JACQUES LA MERDE
a.k.a. Christine Flynn
WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY - PORTRAIT GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY FOOD IMAGES CHRISTINE FLYNN
In a sea of foodie Instagrams and sanctimonious
I think humour is different to different people.
No - and you know I think it’s interesting how,
healthy eating social media accounts, there is
One of the things important to me is I need to
when you create something but don’t give an
nothing more refreshing than someone making us
constantly be making fun of myself. That was a
explanation, people read a lot of different things
confront the silliness of it all.
huge part of the account – I’ve obviously poked
into it. Some people thought I was taking down “bro culture”, or making fun of specific chefs, and I
The @chefjacqueslamerde Instagram brings this
a little fun at the more extreme elements of the
wasn’t. I’ve been in this industry so long and 97 per
humourous side of the food industry to the fore.
industry, but that was never meant to be malicious,
cent of my friends are men and I LOVE them. I’m
“Jacques” is a lovably thuggish chef with a giant
it was more just “look how silly we are sometimes
so happy to be around “bro culture”. I call people
ego, a penchant for the words “dude” and “bro”,
– let’s just have a little bit of a laugh”, which is why
“bro” all the time, I do the high five thing.
and an immense pride in the art of beautiful plating.
I think people have enjoyed it. People were reading so much into it and really,
Only “Jaqcues” isn’t plating truffled potato puree
So how did the @chefjacqueslamerde persona
it was much simpler than that. I just plated food
and braised beef cheek – “Jacques” is creating a
and account come about?
as beautifully as I could, and [I was enjoying] the
high-end dining experience using ingredients such
extreme irony of going downstairs to spend five
as Doritos, Velveeta cheese (a processed cheese
If you were to ask my mother, she would say it’s
dollars at my local La Bodega [supermarket] to
from the US), corn dogs and cans of Spam, to
actually just me in all-caps [laughs]! Really, I was
create a dish and plate it as beautifully as I could.
name a few.
channelling myself at my most hysterical moments.
And that to me is what has made it funny.
Sounds outlandish? The @chefjacqueslamerde account has amassed a 125k following and counting, striking a chord with foodies and those who work in the food industry alike. Until the end of January this year, it remained a mystery who was behind the account. As “Jacques”
867 likes
gained a profile for the images of beautifully plated
chefjacquelamerde: SOMETIMES PPL COME AT ME W/ “BRO,
junk food and the hilariously all-caps captions
HOW DO U KEEP IT SO TIGHT AND SO SOIGNÉ?!!!” AND MY
that accompanied them, fans questioned who
SECRET IS TO JUST ALWAYS COOK FROM THE HEART, BE REAL AND TAKE INSPO FROM NATURE. I CALL THIS DISH “BUGS ON
was behind the account. And almost all guesses
A STICK” B/C THE CRAISINS R THE “BUGS” AND THE CHEEZE
centred around men.
WHIZ/CELERY IS THE “STICK.” ALSO CELERY SODA CAVIAR, GRAHAM CRKR SOIL, CANOLA OIL PWDR + KALE SHREDS.
The twist: On US show Top Chef in January,
#foodporn #chefsofig #foodgasm #wildchefs #theartofplating
“Jacques” was revealed to be Toronto-based
#soigné #truecooks #gastroart #hipsterfoodies #cheflife
FEMALE chef Christine Flynn.
#nextlevel #bereal
We had a chat to Christine shortly after the big
The character came out pretty fully formed.
You come from IQ Food Co in Toronto, which
reveal, talking all things tweezered food, food
Obviously I knew he was going to be a chef,
generally focuses on healthy, sustainable food.
industry “bro culture” and the therapeutic nature
probably the chef I would be if I had been born a
So why did you decide to plate up junk food as
of expressing yourself creatively.
man. Just this sort of bumbling goofball, constantly
“Jacques”?
getting himself into trouble, but you know, finding So how did you get into food in the first place? I’ve always enjoyed working in food. I’ve always
a way to get out of it and give everyone that virtual
Again that hilarious irony was important to me. I
backslap to let them know that things are gonna
love plating, it’s something I really enjoy but it’s
get better if you just push through.
also something I don’t get to do that much in my
felt it was a place where I could be creative. I’ve
everyday work.
been doing it for seventeen years now and I just
So to me it was a very, and I hate to use this
love it – I really enjoy the culture, which I guess is
expression, but it was an extremely organic
kind of obvious by my alter ego [Jacques].
process.
But as for the junk food thing, I guess I look at
So you didn’t have a run-in with some bro-like
healthy eating and sustainability and what that
Do you think it actually is obvious, given
character and go, “You know what? I’m going to
means to me as a person. For me personally, it’s
you make fun of that culture through your @
create a character like this”?
not sustainable to eat tofu all the time. I tried to be
chefsjacqueslamerde account?
vegan for a year… I was so stressed out about food so I just said, “Ergh, I’m not good at this.”
19
I think you need to have balance in life – you have
it on social media. And I was probably cry-eating
would be a name like Pat, or Leslie. So the whole
to have a sense of humour and you can’t put too
ice cream out of the tub at the time [laughs].
thing for me was a little bit of a social experiment.
many rules around what you eat. There’s so much
But you know, it’s a good thing to do, to create
stuff out there that’s not happy that we have to
things when you’re confused. Or upset. There are
I think though, when you have a chef who’s
deal with every day, so what’s sustainable to me
so many positive things that can come out of that
throwing around the word “bro” all the time, then
is to make sure I laugh every day, and you know,
- when you’re at your most raw, I think you’re also
yeah of course [it’s going to be assumed] it’s a
maybe I’ll have a handful of Doritos and it won’t be
at your most creative.
male.
What made you decide to reveal your identity?
And it was DELIGHTFUL for me to receive all
the end of the world. So has anyone eaten the food after you’ve plated/ shot it?
these direct messages that were like “BROTHER, Well, it’s been a year [since I started the account]
wassup? Your account is so tight! [laughs]”
and over the course of that year, I was spending
And you know, women love “Jacques” too! I’d get
I have a great photo collection of my dog eating
a lot of energy on my phone. You know, I want to
these direct messages on Instagram that were like
the food after I’m done. But yeah, there’s certainly
work on other projects and work with other chefs,
“I love you! And if you’re ever in wherever city, we
been a few that have been pretty edible, actually.
and you can’t do that when you’re anonymous.
should hang out some time!”
So it was kind of time. Being a person that’s into I didn’t grow up eating this food at all, so I hadn’t
balance and collaboration and all these things, it
Even one of my now good friends who wrote a
really experienced any of the products until I
was time to go out there and be a real person.
piece @chefjacqueslamerde for the Richmond
started the @chefjacqueslamerde account. So that
News – I had to finally call her and be like, “I’m not a
was kind of a draw card for me, because I was kind
Everyone thought a male chef was behind the
dude”. She was like, “Oh, I’m disappointed because
of like, what IS this substance [laughs] and I picked
account. The account was an alter ego that
I kind of had the feels for you, but I’m also kind of
the weirdest things.
could’ve been male or female, so why do you
happy because it means it’s not gonna be weird
think they made that assumption?
when you come and sleep on my couch” [laughs].
This is funny because I was very careful for a long
That’s hilarious. It’s interesting though… women in
Yeah, Spam’s a good one, I’d never had Spam
time never to reveal gender. Most of the names
the food industry have to adopt a bit of that “bro
before. Growing up in my house, we were dirt
were gender neutral, and my mum actually thought
culture” just to fit in with the kitchen as well?
poor, but we never ate processed food. It was so
Jacques’ sous chef “Jose” was “Josie”, which was
For sure. I mean, it took me a really long time to
foreign to me. So it’s been fun. And the nostalgic
cute. And any time I mentioned someone else it
find my way [in that world]. At first I was really…
...Like Spam?
component of it is cool. You know, Gummi Bears… it’s fun to be around those things, to remember what it’s like to be a kid when everything was simpler.
1,575 likes chefjacqueslamerde: FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES 2NITE
So which photograph was your favourite? Is there
BROS!!! NOT SURE IF THIS COUNTS B/C I THINK MAYBE
one that stands out?
OCTOPUS IS LIKE A CEPHALOPOD OR SUMTHIN BUT I WONT TELL IF YOU DONT!!!!!! I CANT BELIEVE ITS NOT
Well I love the Velveeta one. It was kind of a play on another chef’s dish. It’s Velveeta Seven Ways, and the simplicity of it was actually kind of what was striking to me.
(BROWN) BUTTER-SOUS VIDE OCTO, CRINKLE CUT TOP DOGS, TINY ONIONS, MIRACLE WHIP DOTS, GINGERBREAD SOIL, HICKORY STYX, PLANTS AND A LARGE SPOONFUL OF POTATOES I MADE BY TENDERLY MIXIN 2GETHER POTATO BUDS, HALF AND HALF AND SOME CAMPBELLS CREAMY BUTTERNUT SOUP!!!!!
And then there was the Drumstick ice cream shot, when I was going through this pretty rough breakup and I was like, I’m just gonna write about
20
#feastofthesevenfishes #deliciousfishesdishes #merrychristmas #seasonal #crinklecuthotdogs #octo #nomiku #tweezers #moleculargastronomy #theartofplating #fourmagazine #hi
902 likes chefjacquelamerde: 1567 COVERS LAST NIGHT AND OUR POS WENT DOWN AT 5:45. BROS! I WAS SWEATIN BALLS!!! 3 HRS OF SLEEP AND BACK AT IT !!! #YOLO!!!! 2NITES SPEC = HAWAIIAN BAGEL BITES, CHEETOS, BABY CARROT + RANCH PURÉE, SMALL VEGETABLES AND CHIPOTLE OIL #foodporn #onthemenu2nite #chefsofig #wildchefs #chefshare #theartofplating #gastroart #hipsterfoodies
I was sweet; I was a pushover. And then I was very
When you create an Instagram post, how long
tough. And I kind of transformed into a person that
does it take you to come up with the dish, plate it
I didn’t want to be, because I was worried people
up and then shoot and caption it?
wouldn’t respect me. Instead they were kind of terrified of me, which I don’t think is much better.
...Kind of like a journal? Oh yeah for sure. And I think social media is fascinating, right, because we’re all constantly
So it’s just shot on an iPhone. I would usually,
branding ourselves, saying you know, how great life
after a stressful day at work or something, go to
is, it’s so amazing, we’re perfect, our makeup’s on
I’m lucky now, I have a pretty good resume [which
the grocery store and probably spend about 15
fleek – meanwhile [through @chefjacqueslamerde]
makes that unnecessary] – and even though the
minutes thinking about a little bit of a theme, and
I’ve been like, “My life is falling apart! [laughs]”’
@chefjacqueslamerde account is all ranch dip
I’d take the food home and I’d plate it, and that
and cheese slices, the account has changed how
would probably take around five minutes, and
It was like this open, raw honesty that was like, you
people look at me. And after it was revealed who
then I’d write the caption.
know, we all have those days, and really the only
I am, I’m still kind of figuring that part out. But it’s
thing you can do is pull your socks up and carry
definitely helped me get to a place where instead
Usually the caption is something that either
of being looked at as a “cool chick chef”, it’s more
happened to me that day or maybe to one of
like, “oh, she’s a cool chef”. It just teaches you that
my friends. But usually it happened to me. Like
you can’t pigeonhole people.
someone would drop a blender in the sink. And
on Instagram and online:
we’d have a no-show. And I went through a break
www.chefjacqueslamerde.com.
But you know, so many people were happy it was
up. So it was pretty easy to write about all of that
me. A lot of male chefs who I respect were also
because it was actually happening.
happy. It’s not just this “girl power” thing… it’s a fun twist.
Wed Fri Sat Sun
8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
on. And crush it. You can find the @chefjacqueslamerde account
22
THE SPOT Shop 6, 14-20 Nicholson Street, Coburg
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BRODIE WRIGHT - THE HUNGRY BABUSHKA
Upon entering The Spot Café you are greeted by a bearded, smiley face.
Popular dishes include Baked Moroccan Eggs topped with a cooling labne
A beard with more substance than one sported by any trend setting
and a sprinkle of tangy zaatar and the Super Salad of red kale, organic trio
Brunswick barista - a beard grown before beards were cool.
quinoa, heirloom tomato and pomegranate jewels which bring all the health food fanatics to their yard (and yes, they have to charge).
The man behind the beard is The Spot owner, Khalil Qubbaj. Importantly, the place is completely Instagram-worthy. The olive green, The second thing that strikes you about Qubbaj is his unrestrained
perfectly padded stools from Schots Emporium that just invite you to
enthusiasm for good food and great coffee. This is evident in The Spot’s
perch upon them and browse through the weekend paper, to the recycled
skilful selection of beans for their current house blend – brazenly going
messmate timber table tops from Timber Revival (hand picked by Qubbaj,
against the grain of popular chocolate notes and brewing up a cup of joe
of course) you’ll be snapping away before, during and after your meal
that will leave a sweet, fruity taste courtesy of 5 Senses’ Tightrope blend.
(#nofilterneeded).
The Spot menu give a glimpse into Qubbaj’s journey, from his childhood
THE SPOT
days watching his mum lovingly prepare meals for their family, to his new
Shop 6 14-20 Nicholson Street, Coburg
life in Australia with wife Rim and their adventurous toddler, Mohammed.
thespotcoffeeandfood@gmail.com
Middle Eastern with a touch of Aussie Sunday breakfast, the meals are
instagram.com/thespotcoffee
exotic enough to pique your curiosity while still being approachable.
facebook.com/thespotcoffeeandfood
D I G I TA L C U P S Introducing Detpak’s revolutionary cup capability… high quality photographic print with optional high-build dimensional varnish. With no plate charges and low run quantities starting at 12,000 cups this is the new reality!
Discover for yourself at MICE 2016. Stand #187.
WWW.DETPAK.COM AUSTRALIA 1300 362 620
23
BRAE 4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE
Ranking high on any Melburnian foodie’s agenda, is
and a lot of citrus, with plans to develop a wheat
a trip to regional gastronomical heaven; Brae. With
crop, too. The aim is to grow as much seasonal fruit
a strong focus on organically grown produce and
and veg as possible, and to have first-hand access to
respect for food and natural, sustainable production,
organic produce that would otherwise get negatively
Brae dishes up a unique offering that stands out in
affected with handling and transportation. ‘I struggle
Australia’s food industry. Chef and Owner Dan Hunter
to buy good food in a domestic marketplace that has
has been internationally recognised for producing and
the same flavour as wholesale organic food, straight
creating a cuisine that not only tastes amazing, but
from the grower. And it’s just time. It’s the middle man,
follows a philosophy that speaks volumes of the future
the handling, the cold storage, all those things shuts
of food consumption.
everything down.’ Hunter says.
With worldwide experience and a deep knowledge
Brae’s practices focus on minimising (and in many
of food preparation and creation, Hunter opened up
cases, eliminating) the amount of refrigeration that
Brae in 2013, taking over, renovating and extending the
happens. ‘There’s amazing fruit that we might pick at 6
existing building. ‘I always wanted to be in this region.’
o’clock in the evening, and someone’s eating it at 6:30
He says, ‘I used to come to Apollo Bay for holidays
to 7pm, it’s still full of sunshine. Things like tomatoes
as a kid.’ As well as having an affinity with the area,
are never ever refrigerated’ he states passionately,
Hunter’s most recent six-year stint at the Royal Mail
‘strawberries, no way. The flavour just disappears.
Hotel in Dunkeld enabled him to establish and build
Then you’re working so hard to extract that flavour
relationships with producers west of Melbourne.
again.’ With the right foundations for growing, storage
‘[There is] a great hub of alternative agriculture in this
and handling, Hunter believes laying the groundwork
region, from small berry farms to shiitake growers,’
in advance is reflected in the end result—awesome
says Hunter, and while he aims to organically grow the
flavour.
majority of produce on the property, he’s also glad to have set up shop in what he claims to be one of the
A lot of the produce at Brae is picked the same day
best regions in Victoria.
that it ends up on your plate, with minimal influence from the Western view on storage of primary products.
‘Brae is easy to get to’, Hunter laughs, ‘It’s literally two
With exceptions of course, such as meat—which is
left turns from Melbourne, one up Cape Otway Road
dry aged longer for secondary flavours to develop,
and one up the driveway.’ The drive from Melbourne
or in the fermentation of black garlic, which is grown,
takes an hour and a half, but the trip is well worth
cured, wrapped, then kept at 55 degrees for 30 days.
the mileage (and with swanky new accommodation
‘It caramelises and becomes like a black jelly, and it has
designed by Six Degrees Architects, you can choose
a taste of balsamic and vanilla. It’s just phenomenal.’
to relax as you digest your degustation, too). The small
Hunter says, commonly pairing it with pork jowl, or
vegetable garden that existed on the 30 acre property
drying it out to make a rich, sweet and savoury garlic
in 2013, has grown to encompass many different types
powder for dusting. ‘The great skill in this type of
of fruit and vegetables, including over 200 fruit trees
cuisine, is understanding the product, the best thing
of figs, quinces, varieties of Japanese plums, apricots
for the product, and making that the priority.’
The menu at Brae is a degustation of the current season. ‘This time of year it’s very floral, very alive, very green, it speaks of time as much as place’, Hunter says, adamant about staying true to seasonality. ‘You won’t see tropical foods on the menu in winter, or hothouse tomatoes from Queensland in July, because it’s not representative of what Brae is. I find it much easier to work within the boundaries of seasonal variation than to buy externally, it doesn’t sit well with me.’ The garden is grown with some key ingredients in mind, but what ripens and when, influences the dishes on offer and fuels the kitchen’s creativity. ’It’s about being open to the gesture of the nature that you’re in.’ Hunter states. Some of the most interesting combinations that Brae has served up, sometimes only exist for a day or two. ‘That opportunity comes across a couple of times a season, but it’s just about being in a spot and open minded, and having an abundance of things around to be able to play with and play off. Because those things can be aroma. They can be a brush against a leaf, or the smell of the way a plant reacts while you’re eating something else.’ A previous unique combination has been super-fragrant white strawberries paired with broad beans, and a stock made out of fig leaves infused into whey from milk, iced down like a granita. ‘It was a really amazing combination of the strawberry and the broad bean which I didn’t imagine. It was a beautiful, refreshing dish that just spoke of a few days.’ Hunter’s excitement over unpredictable seasonal combinations is palpable. ‘Creating a flavour from a couple of ingredients that you think; shit that’s amazing, that’s a dish right there.’ With a kitchen hosting nationalities from across the globe, people travel to work at Brae, and they get an experience they can’t get anywhere else, using ingredients endemic to south east Australia. The dining experience is loosely modelled on how Hunter would host you, were you to dine at his house. From casual drinks and finger food, to sit down vegetables and protein, finishing with simple fruit-based desserts. The environment and presentation at Brae verges on jaw-dropping, but the vibe is relaxed, warm and engaging, with none of the pretension usually associated with such a high-class dining experience. Initial courses are even served without cutlery, encouraging patrons to eat with their hands. ‘We like you to make a mess.’ Hunter says, ‘We often find that by doing that, people that had any form of apprehension start to relax.’ For one to list stand-out dishes, there has to be some. At Brae, all the dishes eclipse modern expectations of flavour, technique and plating by such a grand scale, that to list the ‘stand-outs’, would be to recite the whole menu. Each dish embodies an exciting adventure, an experience truly delightful and immersive for diners. The written menu at Brae lists only a few elements in each dish, rather hoping to surprise and elicit curiosity. One dessert which shattered perceptions of the humble parsnip, was simply titled ‘Parsnip and Apple’ and inspired oohs and aahs from around the restaurant. As a food writer, I spend a lot of time describing elements on a plate, but I find myself at a loss putting my experience at Brae into words. The entire service staff are very closemouthed about what diners can expect to sample (until after said sampling), and now that I’ve eaten, consumed, exclaimed and enjoyed the myriad tastes at Brae, I can understand why they don’t want to design or influence expectations. Dining at Brae is a unique experience, and understanding the effort, care and time that has gone into planning, implementing, and managing the produce, adds an extra level to how impressive the offering is. If you’re interested in finding out about some of Hunter’s amazing techniques in the kitchen, he will be releasing a cookbook in 2017 representing the restaurant, how it works in its environment, and more about the local region. But if you’d rather sit back and indulge in a foodie fantasy for four hours, then we’ll see you at the dining table. BRAE 4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra PH: (03) 5236 2226 Open Thursday dinner, Friday to Saturday lunch and dinner. Accommodation now available. braerestaurant.com 26
THE FAMILY YOU WISH YOU HAD
REAL CRAFT BEER BREWED BY REAL PEOPLE NO FAMILY MEMBERS WE HURT (MUCH) IN THE MAKING OF THIS BEER
560 FRANKSTON-DANDENONG RD. CARRUM DOWNS, VIC - tap room OPENING SOON WWW.DAINTONBREWING.COM.AU | FACEBOOK.COM/DAINTONFAMILYBREWERY
28
tongues TALKING IN
A GUIDE TO UNDERSTANDING ‘WINESPEAK’
WORDS CHARLEY MAY
Hanging out with seasoned winos can feel a bit like being the new kid at
that despite being made from arabica beans, two single-origin pours can
school, catching public transport in a non-English speaking country or being
be worlds apart because where they’re grown and how they’re treated has
the last person to have seen the hottest new Netflix series… awkward and
a big effect on their flavour. The same goes with wine, and these days most
confusing. Why? Because the language of wine is complicated, and if you
Aussie winemakers are proud of where they’re from and want this to shine
don’t speak it you can feel like an outsider. Yet when armed with the right
through in their wines.
lingo ‘winespeak’ is easier to understand. So here are some of the terms you’re likely to hear that’ll help you take part in the conversation.
SINGLE-VINEYARD This describes wines where the fruit has been sourced from just one
ALTERNATIVE VARIETIES
vineyard. These wines have been made to express the personality of this
It’s a term used in Australia to describe any other grape that isn’t chardonnay,
specific place through flavour. While the ambition behind single-vineyard
shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, merlot or semillon. You’re going to be drinking
wines is cool, the term seems to have been co-opted as a point of difference
more alternative varietals in the future… and that’s exciting because they’ll
that makes these wines somehow better than others that have been sourced
cope better with climate change than many mainstream grapes and they
from multiple vineyards or regions. It’s a contentious issue, but you’ll find
taste ace. So if you want to freshen up your glass, then get around white
both excellent and average wines made from single-vineyards or a blend of
and reds like fiano, vermentino, viognier, gruner veltliner, aglianico, graciano,
many.
sangiovese and tempranillo. And these producers are making great ones: ArtWine, Chalmers, Yalumba, Handorf Hill, Calabria Family Wines, Brown
TEXTURE
Brothers, Coriole and S.C.Pannell.
It’s a term used to describe the ‘feel’ of wine. While we can smell and taste a range of flavours in wine, we also have the capacity to feel if a wine is smooth,
BIODYNAMIC
minerally, slippery or coarse. These sensations are caused by the alcohol,
A term that delights and divides the industry, this describes a philosophy
acid, sugar, tannins and a myriad of other natural compounds found in wine.
of winemaking that’s free of chemicals and more in touch with the natural
Each variety has it’s own natural textural fingerprint that can contribute to
cycles of life and the universe. In the theory, the approach is believed to
the character of the wine. Or texture can be built into a wine using various
have a beneficial effect on the quality and character of wine. In practice, it
techniques. Either way, it’s a very important element to creating a three
can be hard to assess because it’s possible to make outstanding biodynamic
dimensional tasting experience.
and conventionally crafted vino. While research is underway to assess differences between them, sometimes you don’t need science to tell you
UNFILTERED WINE
when something feels or tastes great, you just have to trust your instincts.
These are wines that haven’t been filtered to remove the tiny particles, such as dead yeast and sediment, before being bottled. There are two schools
COOL-CLIMATE
of thought on filtering: that it’s a necessary step to producing stable, clear
It’s a pretty amusing term given Australia is one of the hottest and driest
wine, or that it strips out much of the wine’s character. There’s no need
continents on earth. However, it’s becoming trendy in the wine world and
to take sides, both approaches are just different and can produce equally
is often used as a shorthand for quality… which is not always guaranteed.
delicious wine.
To qualify as cool climate, a region needs to be located within a specific latitude, have a certain temperature and elevation. Wines from cool climate
WILD-FERMENTED
regions generally have less alcohol, higher acidity, a lighter body and more
This basically means letting the natural yeasts on the grape, vineyard and
subtle flavours than warm region peers. However, arguing about which type
winery do their thing instead of adding cultured yeast to the juice. There
of region is better is futile because if you plant the right grapes in the right
are thousands of yeast strains that have been isolated over the years from
place, nurture them and bring them to life with care, then you can make
vineyards across the world and turned into cultures for winemakers to use.
good wine from either. At the end of a day, it’s a matter of personal taste as
Each strain is unique and can help bring out specific flavours and characters
to which you prefer.
in the wine. However, rather than relying on cultured yeast, more winemakers are letting their vineyard’s indigenous yeast ferment the wine to give a truer
TERROIR
expression of where it’s from.
Pronounced ‘ter-waahr’, this is a French term with no literal English equivalent that loosely translates to mean ‘a sense of place’. While this term is specific
So fill your glass and be confident about what you’re saying because there
to wine, it’s applicable to other food and drink, and describes a phenomena
is no right or wrong when it comes to wine, just a bottle full of fun and good
where soil, climate and culture combine to give rise to something that
banter.
reflects its origins with a unique taste. If you’re a coffee fiend, you’ll know
29
30
TORTA DI PERA E CIOCCOLATO PEAR AND CHOCOLATE CAKE
SERVES 8 50 g (1¾ oz) sugar
Combine the sugar with 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water in a
2 pears, peeled, cored and cut into eighths lengthways
saucepan and set over a medium heat. Add the pear and poach
150 g (5½ oz) dark chocolate
for 10–15 minutes, or until tender but not too soft (a knife should
90 g (3 oz) unsalted butter, cubed
easily penetrate the flesh without any resistance). Drain and let
90 g (3 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
the pear pieces cool.
90 g (3 oz) almond meal 3 eggs, separated
Melt the chocolate over a bain-marie or double boiler. When
1 teaspoon cocoa powder for dusting
melted, remove from the heat, add the butter and stir until the
icing (confectioners’) sugar for dusting (optional)
butter has melted. Add the sugar and almond meal, stirring to combine. When the mixture is cool, add the egg yolks. Preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F). Grease a 22–24 cm (8¾–9¼ in) round springform cake tin and dust with the cocoa powder. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites to firm peaks, then fold them into the chocolate batter. Pour the chocolate mixture into the tin. Arrange the pear pieces on the top of the batter, pushing them slightly in. Bake for 40 minutes, or until a skewer
FLORENTINE
inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.
by Emiko Davies RRP: $49.99
When cool, remove the cake from the cake tin and, just before
Recipe taken from Florentine by Emiko Davies
serving, dust liberally with icing sugar, if desired. Serve in modest
published by Hardie Grant Books and available now
slices – this is rather rich.
where all good books are sold.
u
hat.com.a
www.chefs
31
REVIEWS ALLPRESS ESPRESSO - SUPREMO BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG There’s something special about going out to drink coffee.
flavour. The coffee cuts through milk like a knife, but always
It’s never been for the caffeine because honestly it does
blends beautifully to create a tasty well rounded cup. As it
nothing for me. I can go to sleep after an espresso and not
is roasted a little darker I find I need a touch more milk in
wake up for hours. It’s an experience with the cup I hold in
my macchiato, but this is never an issue as it means a few
my hand and a relationship with the cafe and people who
more sips for me.
work there. The more I feel toward a place or the person I connect with, the better the coffee seems to taste and the
I decided on this occasion to pay a visit to the roastery in
more I want to return. Every Friday, unless I have somewhere
Collingwood to meet the team and check out their hot air
else to be, you’ll find me at The St Kilda Dispensary drinking
roaster, designed by Michael Allpress himself together with
coffee with owner Kristy Andruszko. I rarely meet anyone
engineer Mike Scobie in order to extract the sugars, develop
there, because that way I get to chat with her and catch up
richness and length of flavour and produce a consistent,
on the week’s events while she prepares my coffee, exactly
even roast. From here the coffee is packed and labelled
how I like it, vintage spoon on the side, ready for a photo,
by hand and baristas and cafe owners are encouraged to
perfect every time. It has become a weekly ritual and one
participate in training offered on site. The sense of passion
I don’t like to break.
and care I felt while there aligns perfectly with Kristy and what she has set out to achieve at The St Kilda Dispensary,
allpressespresso.com.au info@allpressespresso.com.au 8415 5777
The building used to be a thriving dispensary back in the
so now when I drink my coffee every week, I understand
1940s and Kristy single-handedly transformed this into
exactly why she chose this brand and why every cup is
a unique space with medical knick knacks she collected,
made with such affection, making the taste just that little
being sympathetic to its history, not wanting to follow the
bit sweeter.
minimalist industrial trend of stark white walls, blonde wood
Share in the Supremo love at -
and metal fixtures. At the same time back in 2013, coffee
The St Kilda Dispensary - 13 Brighton Rd St Kilda
in Melbourne had also taken a new direction favouring
Kitty Burns - 24 Acacia Pl, Abbotsford
lighter, fruitier roasts, but in her inimitable style Kristy went
Tall Timber - 60 Commercial Rd, Prahran
with her heart and what she believed her customers would
Friends of Mine - 506 Swan St, Richmond
want and chose Allpress and their original Supremo blend.
Francis Winifred - 94 Winifred St, Oak Park
Combining three beans from Brazil, Colombia and PNG,
Pope Joan - 77-79 Nicholson St, Brunswick East
it has body, sweetness, a little acidity and a strong cocoa
HERE FOR THE LONG HAUL: STONE BREWING - GO TO IPA WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON I have been quite deliberate in keeping my monthly GRAM
first American craft brewer to own and operate a brewery
beer reviews (save for one) to beers brewed by independent
in Europe. While this success is amazing for a couple of
Australian breweries.
guys that have stuck to their beliefs about beer, its contents and ownership, I guess one could point out the irony of the
The local industry is vibrant and robust yet still has a way
Berlin move given Stone preach a genuinely local ethos.
to go to catch up with our friends in the UK, Europe, USA
Others would say, “Who cares as long as the beer is good”.
and perhaps even New Zealand. It’s this point and my
I’ll allow you guys to make your own minds up.
inclination to root for the underdog that convinced me to showcase local heroes who fight the good fight minus
Anyway, let’s talk about this beer. Stone’s Go To IPA came
the big marketing budget. But, like a well earnt holiday
out in early 2014 riding the wave of requests from their
reinvigorates the soul and broadens the mind, it can prove
customers for a tasty, hop forward beer that they can enjoy
beneficial to look to other parts of the world to see why
all day. The result was a superb drinking experience brewed
independent craft beer production and consumption is far
with 8 different hops and a well-rounded malt backbone
from a fad - it’s officially a “thing”.
that gives you a strong tropical fruit hit on the nose, a controlled hoppy hit at 65 IBU’s and enough cerebral
ABV: 4.5%
Rock n’ Roll loving beer tragics Greg Koch and Steve
coherence to talk all night about the footy, why Vikings
STYLE: India Pale Ale
Wagner met through mutual friends and established Stone
is a better TV series than Game Of Thrones or the new
SERVING TEMP: 4 degrees
Brewing in 1996 as a statement of defiance against the
Snapchat filters or… whatever! It is a beer that would sit
ORIGIN: Escondido, San Diego California (US)
tyrannical duopoly controlling the American beer industry.
just as comfortably on a table at a high-end restaurant as
FOOD PAIRING: Spicy Mexican
Like any business, these guys had to endure many ups
it would in a stubby holder at the beach. Definitely a Go To
PRICE (RRP): Bar or Restaurant $9-12 (355ml)
and downs but fast forward to 2016 and Stone Brewing
IPA. Available at most good beer venues and bottle shops
BUY IT HERE: experienceitbeverages.com.au
grown to be one of the largest craft brewers in America
around Melbourne and regional Victoria. Cheers!
and, once their Berlin site is complete very soon, will be the
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REVIEWS TORO ALBALÁ MARQUÉS DE POLEY CREAM PEDRO XIMÉNEZ NV WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO If you had told me ten years ago that I would one day write
Pale amber in colour you are immediately drawn into the
about a cream sherry, I would have immediately conjured
glass by aromas of toasted walnuts, vanilla, salted caramel
up images of the Australian McWilliams version in my
and dried apricots. On the palate you would not call it very
head – the one that I used to sip in the summer sunshine
sweet, so for those expecting a viscous style of PX, look
with my Nonna on a special occasion. Fast forward to
elsewhere. The overall effect is delicate with the subtle
today and I am writing about a very different wine made
salted caramel and nut flavours carrying it far. Sip it slowly
in a very different style.
and enjoy the walnut skin-like texture at the finish with ice-cream, fruits and citrus-based desserts.
Toro Albalá have been making wine in the Montilla region of southern Spain for quite some time. In fact, they are
Montilla, Spain
sort of renowned as experts in the matter. This example is
RRP $26 for 500ml
made entirely from Pedro Ximénez (PX) grapes that were
Stockist: Try Prince Wine Store in South Melbourne
made into Oloroso sherry and blended over ten years in a solera system, a method that adds fresh wine to old wine and builds complexity in flavour and aroma. Add a dash of their famous Don PX Gran Reserva and the result is exquisite.
LOOP ROOF WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BAR/D UP In collaboration with Tequila Tromba A rooftop is always the perfect vantage point to
with Tequila Tromba blanco and finished with a
get a feel for the surrounding city, and if you can
bottle of Corona for a refreshing easy to drink
be holding a drink in your hand while doing it...
twist on a classic Margarita. There’s a small food
even better! Between Little Collins and Bourke
menu that changes regularly to suit the seasons,
in Meyers Place you’ll find Loop Roof perched
tasty bites all designed to share with friends.
high in the sky three floors above the Loop
If you like to sit and sip amongst lush greenery
Project Space & Bar. In a place like Melbourne
with the sky so close you can almost touch it,
where it can be a scorching 35 degrees one
then the Loop Roof Cocktail Bar and Garden -
minute, then 18 degrees and raining the next,
Melbourne is a little Garden of Eden in an urban
LOOP ROOF
you need to be prepared for all seasons. With
jungle.
LEVEL 3, 23 MEYERS PLACE,
retractable awnings, heaters and a misting
MELBOURNE, VIC, 3000 03 9654 0500
LOOPROOFTOPBAR.COM.AU
system you can be cool or cozy regardless of the weather.
Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video. INSTAGRAM: bardupmelb FACEBOOK: bardupmelb
Attracting some of the city’s best bartenders, there are quality beverages being made here, including shared jugs like the Lagerita made
NEW COOKBOOK AVA I L A B L E N OW THEGUIDE.WEBSITE/FLORENTINE
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OUT AND ABOUT MJR TOM NEW DINNER MENU LAUNCH
With a new dinner menu featuring Latin inspired eats from head chef Sam Kearney, a selection of Melbourne’s foodies and bloggers were invited to the launch at MJR TOM in Collingwood, executed to perfection by owner Nick Tiktikakis in collaboration with the team at True Tribe. Dishes included a mushroom parfait, kingfish
ceviche, marinated baby mackerel on squid ink rice cracker, crab & coconut croquetas, octopus on confit potato and many more, all paired with great wine and beer. Guests also took home a goodie bag with products from Sample Brew, Pana Chocolate and Romcaffè.
PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
INNOVATE YOUR PLATE
World-renowned Marcus Oldham College brought together the movers and shakers from regional agribusinesses to celebrate an evening of innovation, collaboration and entrepreneurship with the ‘Innovate the Plate’ event this
month. The event aimed to put the spotlight on some of Australia’s leading agribusiness entrepreneurs and provide insight into their innovative business journey throughout the ‘paddock to plate’ process.
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additional trading days monday 14th, thursday 24th & monday 28th march 11am - 4pm. Closed Good Friday
labour day &easter
T 03 9011 8433 phillipandlea.com.au
26 high street trentham victoria 3458 friday 11am - 4pm saturday and sunday 10am - 4pm
the Cook the Gardener the Baker & Patissier the Hunter & Forager the Preserver the Charcutier & Salumi Maker
implements and tools
THE DIARY
9-11 March 2016
SQUARE MARKET The Atrium, Federation Square
Global payments technology company Square has invited Melbourne’s favourite small business heroes to join it for Square Market, a unique popup marketplace celebrating small business at Federation Square. 19 March 2016 4 - 13 March 2016
THE MELBOURNE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Various Venues across Victoria
The 2016 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival presented by Bank of Melbourne will run from March 4 to 13 in Australia’s culinary capital, Melbourne. Gather along the Yarra River to enjoy free entertainment and provincial flavours at the River Graze, sharpen your skills at a MasterClass or sip your way through the world’s vineyards with wine tastings and pairings galore. Indulge your senses at the Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch, or go regional in 24 lunching locations outside of Melbourne, and enjoy the best produce Victoria has to offer. Whether you are a seasoned foodie or just looking for something new, there’s a smorgasbord of events to try. Join Melbourne Food and Wine Festival for ten days of unforgettable food and wine experiences.
BENDIGO CRAFT BEER AND WINE FESTIVAL Tom Flood Sports Centre, Bendigo
Take in a day full of some of the best handcrafted beers and ciders produced in Australia, taste a range of gourmet foods all while relaxing on the grassed arena listening to a variety of artists playing live music. The Bendigo Craft Beer and Cider Festival brings together an amazing range of award winning craft beers and ciders from all over the state and beyond, come along and re acquaint yourself with some of the returning brewers or try from some festival first timers, a great day is sure to be had by all. Explore and discover over 100 craft beers and ciders. From micro breweries you’ve never heard of, special one-off brews, right through to varieties you know and love. bendigocraftbeerfestival.com.au
Over three days, businesses that you know and love—Market Lane Coffee, Shortstop Coffee & Donuts, Mork Chocolate, That Dapper Chap, Butterbing Cookies, Those Girls, Cobb Lane Bakery, Adriano Zumbo, Sensory Lab, Hunters’ Roots, 5 & Dime Bagel and many more—are joining emerging artists, homewares designers, illustrators, crafters and buskers to sell direct to the public at one of the city’s most iconic destinations. “Whether you’re looking for great coffee or doughnuts, local art to street art, markets or makers, Melbourne has something to for everyone to enjoy, ” commented Square’s Australian Country manager, Ben Pfisterer. “Melbourne’s small businesses are as diverse as its neighbourhoods. Since opening our office in Melbourne in May 2015, Square has partnered with and powered the local small business community and we wanted to give back to the heroes who help create this diverse and interesting element of Melbourne’s cultural identity.” Different sellers are invited back on different days, to create a constantly changing and evolving retail space where small businesses can trade to a bustling crowd and compete with bigger businesses right on their home turf. Ben Pfisterer said, “Square is committed to empowering sellers with the tools to grow their business, and Square Market is all about giving sellers a platform to promote themselves, sell their products or service and offer a memorable customer experience designed to bring customers back to their business again and again in the future.” Square Market is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from 9–11 March. Enter via The Atrium at Flinders Street, Federation Square. Entry to Square Market is completely free. Stop in and support Melbourne’s finest small businesses. https://squareup.com/au/townsquare/square-market-federation-square/
Book now and full event line up: melbournefoodandwine.com.au
12 - 13 March 2016
TASTES OF RUTHERGLEN 57 Main Street, Rutherglen
Tastes of Rutherglen 2016 is Rutherglen’s premiere wine and gourmet food event. 13 March 2016
MAD HATTER’S MARSANNE PARTY Madame Brussels, Level 3, 59 Bourke Street, Melbourne
Madame Brussels is flinging open her doors to reveal the magical Mad Hatter’s garden. Indulge in free flowing Tahbilk Marsanne, served many ways, and delectable desserts at the party of all parties. The moment you enter Wonderland your senses will be tantalised with delicious desserty delights and free flowing Marsanne, served in many ways. Are you Alice or are you the Mad Hatter? Come and play with Madame Brussels to find out. http://www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au/ program/mad-hatters-marsanne-party-6139
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With award-winning wineries partnering with leading regional chefs and producers, Tastes of Rutherglen is the perfect way to sample the best of what the region has to offer.
17 - 19 March 2016
MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPO Melbourne Showgrounds
This event not only showcases Rutherglen’s outstanding wines and food, it also gives you the chance to get behind the scenes at many of the wineries to learn about the history and hard work that goes into making world class wines.
The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is back for 2016, with an incredible range of new features to engage every segment of the supply chain.
Experience all the fantastic wine, food and events at Tastes of Rutherglen.
Café owners, roasters, baristas, equipment manufacturers, distributors and service providers are among the more than 10,000 visitors who flock to this event every year.
Now in its fifth year, MICE has become the largest coffee-dedicated event in the region, and one of the biggest in the world.
tastesofrutherglen.com.au internationalcoffeeexpo.com
Better Service... Bigger Results! 84 ORMOND ROAD, ELWOOD ELWOOD’S BEST RETAIL • Ideal For Hospitality Use
• Infrastructure Ready
• Tenancy Area: 67 sqm* + Storage Cage
• GoGet Cars in Neighbourhood
• Planning Permit Approved
• Three Phase Power
• Exhaust/Grease Trap
• Available Mid 2016
FOR LEASE
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Melbourne’s beachside suburb of Elwood is nestled between St Kilda and Brighton eight kilometres south of the CBD Sometimes viewed as a leafy extension to St Kilda, it has it’s own quaint charm and character, but is close enough to the best of St Kilda’s offerings. Ormond Road, Elwood is known by the local’s for it’s abundance of trendy coffee hangouts, eateries that cater for all true foodies and shopping for all those last minute gifts. With plenty of on-street parking within the area, there are also GoGet community share vehicles for those environmentally persuaded. The nearby beaches are lined with parks and paved walking and bicycle tracks, perfect for that lunch time run and outdoor exercise. The abundance of apartments nearby will guarantee a solid customer base for your business. Make your mark in Elwood!
Artist Impression
Boundaries are indicative only
FOR LEASE Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229
*approx
405 ST KILDA ROAD, ST KILDA ALBERT PARK MANOR
FOR LEASE
• Landmark Restaurant/Café/Bar
• Tenancy Area: 280 sqm*
• North-West Facing Alfresco Forecourt
• Secure On-Site Parking
• Build in Outdoor Seating
• Male, Female and Disabled Toilets
• Planning Permit Approved (STCA)
• Bin Store and Wash
• Grease Trap, Gas & Exhaust Provisions
• Large On-Site Storage Area
• Three Phase Power
• Footpath Dining Available
The recently refurbished Albert Park Manor was built in the early 1900’s and was originally utilized as a veteran’s hospital after WW1, the building boasts charming original heritage details carefully blended with designer modern features. Situated in the “Domain Precinct”, Melbourne’s most elite and sought after suburb near the corner of Toorak and St Kilda Roads, South Yarra, this broad fronted property will surely impress. Surrounded by iconic Melbourne locations and restaurants such as Entrecote, Hotel Gitan and the Botanical. Don’t miss your opportunity to secure one of the areas last hospitality venues. FOR LEASE Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229
Richard Munday 0418 180 919
*approx
154 - 156 ACLAND ST, ST KILDA
63 - 65 ATHERTON ROAD, OAKLEIGH
FOR LEASE
ULTRA PRIME RETAIL PREMISES WITH MASSIVE DOUBLE FRONTAGE • Rare Opportunity to Secure One of Acland Street’s Best Retail Premises • Suit a Variety of Uses (STPA) • Building Area: 180 sqm* Over 2 Levels
FOR LEASE
BRAND NEW RETAIL SPACES IN PRIME LOCATION
• Surrounded by National Tenants Including Coles, Sportsgirl, Industrie, and Hairhouse Warehouse to Name a Few • First Floor Offices / Storage • Rear Services Courtyard
FOR LEASE
Four brand new retail spaces available from 2016 forming part of the new Atherton & Atkinson mixed use development. Centrally located in the heart of Oakleigh with great exposure. • Shop 1: 122 sqm*
• Shop 3: 66 sqm*
• Shop 2: 126 sqm*
• Cafe / Restaurant: 106 sqm*
FOR LEASE
Richard Munday 0418 180 919
*approx
Liam Rafferty 0421 886 655
*approx
LOOKING FOR CAFE/RESTAURANT SPACE IN THE SUBURBS? CALL MELBOURNE’S LEADING COMMERCIAL SUBURBAN AGENTS. Brendan Goss 0400 575 596
beller.com.au
Liam Rafferty 0421 886 655
Richard Munday 0418 180 919
Sam Fogarty 0414 288 229
Fred Nucara 0418 567 560
03 8532 2222
Level 4, 613 St Kilda Road, Melbourne
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