GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 61 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
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CONTENTS EATING OUT ROYAL MAIL HOTEL Meg Osborne
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FEATURE
INTERNATIONAL
CITY PRECINCT FOODIE TOUR BEING FED AND WATERED BY
BRYAN PETROFF
Lauren Kenrick - Foodie Melbourne
MATCHA MYLKBAR Amber De Luca-Tao
BIG GAY ICE CREAM Lauren Bruce
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CONTRIBUTORS
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NEWLY OPENED
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AROUND THE TRAPS THINGS WE LOVE
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BAYSIDE BREWERY WOLF OF THE WILLOWS Ella Pleasant and Dean Schmideg
REGULARS
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REVIEWS
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OUT AND ABOUT
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THE DIARY
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ON THE COVER: CARROTS The carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a root vegetable, usually orange in colour, though purple, black, red, white, and yellow varieties exist. It has a crisp texture when fresh. The most commonly eaten part of a carrot is a taproot, although the greens are sometimes eaten as well. It is a domesticated form of the wild carrot Daucus carota, native to Europe and southwestern Asia. The domestic carrot has been selectively bred for its greatly enlarged and more palatable, less woody-textured edible taproot.(Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
COVER DESIGN
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Jess Hourigan
ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren Bruce DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE
MEGAN OSBORNE
Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
ELLA PLEASANT
LA DONNA DEL VINO
Digital marketer by day, fanatical foodie by night, the only thing Ella loves more than eating and drinking is talking about it online.
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this
With a mission to hunt down the city’s best wining and dining establishments, she couldn’t be more chuffed (and stuffed) to share her foodie finds.
Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property with her husband Wootten.
FOODIE MELBOURNE ladonnadelvino.com I’m Lauren - a Melbourne born and bred food,
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino
travel and social media addict, and founder of
FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
the blog Foodie Melbourne. I spend all my time thinking about my next
AMBER DE LUCA-TAO
meal or my next holiday. I love all kinds of food- from home cooking to food trucks to
Hi! My name is Amber De Luca–Tao. I am
fine dining, and feel so lucky to live in a city
a second year Business and Journalism
that has it all!
student. I am half Italian and half Chinese. I have a passion for lifestyle magazines and
foodiemelbourne.wordpress.com
an obsession with Melbourne breakfast
INSTAGRAM: foodiemelbourne
cafes. In my spare time I love to exercise, take photos and update my blog. ambershalfieworld.weebly.com
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds INSTAGRAM: dsimages TWITTER: imagesDS E: deany76@gmail.com
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INSTAGRAM: ambershalfieworld
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival. TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
THE GRAM STORE
MOUNT ZERO OLIVES SALE 25% OFF THE ENTIRE MOUNT ZERO RANGE MAY ONLY CODE: MTZERO25 www.gramstore.com.au
NOW OPEN
BLUEBONNET BBQ
HAPPY PLACE OPENED: May 9, 2016 Celebrated Nutritionist Lola Berry and coffee mastermind, Salvatore Malatesta (of St. Ali) have joined forces to launch “Happy Place” juice bar and café within the heart of South Melbourne Market. With the ultimate goal to deliver a sense of health and happiness to each and every customer, the aptly named “Happy Place” will open Friday May 6, 2016. “Happy Place” is all about inspiring wellness and being a place where you can pick up healthy on-the-go meals, snacks, smoothies and juices, however, it’s also about empowering you to find the happy place within yourself,” says Lola Berry.
OPENED: April 27, 2016 Chris Terlikar and his team at Melbourne barbecue joint, Bluebonnet, have re-stoked their fires and are re-opening the doors at what was the iconic North Fitzroy Star. After their first location in Collingwood was devastated by fire in May 2015, Terlikar set up shop at ‘Carmelita’ to run successful pop ups at The John Curtin Hotel and the Point Lonsdale Surf Lifesaving Club. To kick off the opening of Bar Loretta, Bluebonnet is teaming up with Stone and Wood for Good Beer Week with their Circle of Life dinner – celebrating all things grain, grass, pork and glass. 32 ST GEORGES ROAD SOUTH, FITZROY NORTH bluebonnetbbq.com.au
The menu is balanced between sweet and savoury goodies to satiate your appetite at any time – whether it’s a breakfast smoothie, a fresh desk-side salad, or a protein rich post workout treat. STALL 56 - SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET, CECIL ST SOUTH MELBOURNE
ABOUT LIFE OPENED: May 1, 2016 Australia’s largest and fastest growing holistic lifestyle hub, About Life, has opened its first Melbourne store on Bay Street, Port Melbourne. About Life is a one-stop shop for natural groceries, an inspired wholefoods café as well as a readyto-eat nature’s servery. There is even an in-store wellness expert and concierge, all under one ethical, sustainable roof - rain, kale or shine! An annual 15% growth in the natural and organic industry since 2009 (Australian Organic Market Report 2014) proves Australia’s growing appetite for wellness. In 2016, About Life celebrates its 20th anniversary, advocating that wellness is not a trend but a lifestyle choice. About Life’s promise is to eliminate the nasties artificial preservatives, flavours, sweeteners, colours and more - found in conventional supermarkets and instead replace these with natural, ethical groceries that won’t break the bank or leave a large footprint. 120 BAY STREET, PORT MELBOURNE
UNTZ UNTZ SAKE - FLINDERS LANE OPENED: April 28, 2016 Melbourne’s world-renowned dining destination is now home to Saké Restaurant & Bar’s fifth contemporary Japanese restaurant – Saké Flinders Lane. Sprawled over two storeys in Melbourne’s famed gastronomic destination, Flinders Lane, this new Saké venue is a super-luxe, high-energy addition to Melbourne’s CBD. The entry level of the two-storey venue at 121 Flinders Lane includes a dramatic dining counter combining a sushi bar and spectacular robatayaki grill. The menu features dishes unique to the Flinders Lane venue, including Japanese staple yakitori, and the largest range of umeshu, sake and Japanese whisky of all the Saké venues 121 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE sakerestaurant.com.au
OPENED: March 8, 2016 It is called UNTZ UNTZ (say it out loud) – a 280 capacity Band room with a side room that holds 60 people, all with a 24-hour liquor license. Boom. Please welcome UNTZ UNTZ to the Hawthorn Revival. Stage One of UNTZ UNTZ (formerly known as Cheers to Melbourne’s Gen X’s and Y’s) is now complete with Stage Two being holy moly (pub designed by Michael Delaney) and Boozy Soozy (think $4 Lucky Coq and Bimbo Deluxe style of pizzas, but better because the local pizza god Henry Chan is behind the U.U venture, plus all your favourite cocktails on tap) joining the new and exciting Hawthorn precinct this September 2016. 660A GLENFERRIE ROAD, HAWTHORN facebook.com/untzuntz
aboutlife.com.au
ZERO GRADI OPENED: April 19, 2016 Johnny Di Francesco, Melbourne’s pizza king and owner of renowned 400 Gradi and Gradi at Crown, is taking his first steps down a sweeter path - opening his first stand alone gelataria, Zero Gradi last month. Opening just a few doors down from his flagship restaurant 400 Gradi on Lygon Street, the sweet delights on offer at Zero Gradi promise to transport customers straight to the heart of Italy – which is precisely what Johnny wants. The master pizza Chef says he has been considering the venture for a while, with the idea for Zero Gradi ignited by the longing for traditional Neapolitan gelato he feels every time he leaves his family’s homeland of Naples. SHOP 1/93-97 LYGON STREET EAST BRUNSWICK 400gradi.com.au
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AROUND THE TRAPS
AUSTRALIAN FOOD AWARDS
Building on the success of RASV’s Royal Melbourne Fine Food Awards, the Australian Food Awards will offer broader opportunities to Australian producers to leverage their success locally and internationally with the Australian Food Awards’ national brand seal of excellence. RASV CEO, Mark O’Sullivan said the introduction of the Australian Food Awards reflects the RASV’s ongoing commitment to enhancing its food and beverage award programs. The Australian Food Awards offers eight overarching categories, including Dairy, Meat, Poultry, Seafood, Fresh Produce, Grains and Pulses, Pantry Goods and Convenience Foods. “The eight categories incorporate the Royal Melbourne Fine Food Awards’ former 16 categories whilst expanding the program offering to introduce new categories that reflect growing consumer food trends, such as ready to eat and prepared meals in the Convenience Foods category, truffles in the Fresh Produce category and goat and pork in the Meat category,” said Mr O’Sullivan.
THE FOOD PARK TRUCK WINTER SERIES Preston is bringing more than just your favourite street fare in 2016. Alongside Melbourne’s favourite food trucks and Barry’s Bar, The Food Truck Park™ brings new events and a diverse entertainment line-up to the former car-yard on High Street. New Kids on The Block, Saturday May 7 – Want to try
Latin Fiesta Party, Saturday May 28 – Preston brings Latin America to the north this May. An event to heat up Melbournians in the colder months we are showcasing the best in Latin food trucks from Brazil to Cuba. Winter Foodie Fest, June 2016 – Throughout the month of June Preston transforms into a magical and
the freshest food truck purveyors in Melbourne? New
tasty foodie fest boasting a spectacular light display,
Kids on the Block brings together the newest trucks to
light up figurines and a rotation of food trucks to warm
satisfy attendees with a global mix of cuisines.
visitors this winter. With a vast indoor area Preston is
Euro Take Over, Friday May 13 – As Australia enters its
the perfect place to keep warm and sample the best in
second year as Eurovision contenders The Food Truck
street food this June.
Park is celebrating with a huge Euro Take Over event.
World Environment Day, Saturday June 4 – Vegetarians,
Support your favourite nation with each food truck
vegans and ethically minded foodies will love our World
serving up a different European cuisine plus DJ’s and
Environment Day event. Bringing Melbourne the best in
of course lots of colour.
plant based street food this event features Melbourne’s vego food truck favourites to Preston.
AN INTERSECTION OF FOOD AND TECH
The new start up changing the way we experience food when we travel. Founded in Bangkok by two young foodies and travellers, Cookly is an online marketplace that connects people to culinary activities anywhere in the world. Both locals and travellers can use Cookly to connect to local professional chefs and established cooking schools in a number of Asian cities for a truly unique culinary experience. Already, the young startup is planning for expansions into Japan, with more long term plans in place for other regions, including Australia, Europe and the Americas. Cookly will also grow to offer more than cooking classes. Activities on the horizon include wine tastings, food tours, mixology classes and much more.
Entries will open on 24 May and more than 100 leading industry experts will judge the categories from 7 to 22 July. Due to seasonality, judging for Olive Oil will take place separately in August, with a further seasonal judging program in February. Enter online here: http://food.rasv.com.au
Mother’s Day
cookly.me
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AT THE MARKET
Corner Coventry & Cecil Streets, South Melbourne
WHAT’S ON MARKET OPEN 8AM - 4PM LIVE JAZZ 9AM - 12PM BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, LUNCH FLOWERS, MASSAGE, GIFTS
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The Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria (RASV) has announced a new opportunity for Australian food producers with the launch of the Australian Food Awards.
Gift Guide and details at southmelbournemarket.com.au
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
CITY PRECINCT FOOD TOUR: BEING FED AND WATERED BY 3000 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN KENRICK
Trawling through Melbourne’s laneways, tasting our city’s many culinary
7 Degraves St, Melbourne
delights with like-minded foodies is exactly how I want to be spending my
PH: 9639 2681
weekends, so an invite to the City Precinct Food Tour with the team from
INSTAGRAM: clementines3000
GRAM Magazine was, for me, the perfect Saturday out.
FACEBOOK: clementines3000 www.clementines.com.au
One of my favourite elements about being a food blogger in Melbourne, is the opportunity to meet the passionate and talented creatives behind-the-
A short walk away, the bright orange scooter parked in Degraves Street
scenes at restaurants, cafes and specialty food stores. The City Precinct
guided us towards Clementine’s, home of some of Melbourne’s finest food
connects these passionate individuals, retail and hospitality alike, encouraging
and giftware. Small in size but big in passion, this store is a haven for anyone
networking and community. With more than 100 members, our City Precinct
wanting to find unique Melbourne gifts (for friends, or for yourself) particularly
Tour was but an introduction to this vibrant community of small, local, and
those of the artisan food variety.
sometimes hidden, independent retailers, and I for one, can’t wait to go back. It was inspiring to hear Melanie, the store’s owner, chat candidly about the CABOOSE CANTEEN
creators of the products she stocks. All are made in Victoria, usually small
4 City Square, Swanston Street, Melbourne
batch or made solely by the owner, and she knows the names and backstories
PH: 9663 4448
of all of her suppliers. It is clear that this shop is ran with a true love and
INSTAGRAM: caboosecanteen
fondness for Melbourne. Our morning tea consisted of some delicacies from
TWITTER: CabooseCanteen
Asterisk foods, a small patisserie company located in leafy Warrandyte. The
www.caboosecanteen.com.au
charcoal lavosh crackers and raspberry meringues were so delicious I have already jumped online to buy some more.
Our big day of eating began with a light breakfast at Caboose Canteen, a cosy café in bustling City Square. A stone’s throw away from Federation Square
Clementine’s also supports Rooftop Bees, an organisation we should all
and housed amongst the hub of activity that is busy Swanston St, this café
be aware of given the significant role bees play in our ecosystem. Not only
hosts a prime position. Caboose Canteen offers simple, homely breakfast and
does Clementine’s sponsor a hive right above their shop on the rooftop of
lunch dishes served by charismatic and entertaining staff.
Degraves St, you can also taste or purchase the honey from this hive. Just
CLEMENTINE’S
wait until you taste the difference between supermarket bought honey and
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fresh honey from Melbourne’s own bees. LA VITA BUONA 44-86 Swanston St, Melbourne PH: 9654 7855 INSTAGRAM: lavitabuona TWITTER: lavitabuona www.lavitabuona.com.au Clementine’s gift bags in hand, we ambled back to City Square for our morning tea stop at La Vita Buona (a sister restaurant to Caboose Canteen, and literally located next door) and were all of a sudden transported to Italy. La Vita Buona is a beautiful venue, featuring an elegant décor of blonde wood and exposed brick walls. Not for the last time that day, we felt as though we had found a little slice of Europe in the heart of the Melbourne CBD. Not your traditional morning tea; we luxuriously nibbled on freshly made antipasto whilst sipping on aperitifs and enjoyed the ambient surroundings, as one should spend early afternoon on a Saturday in Melbourne. The wider menu consists of European style share food, pastas and mains. JOURNAL 253 Flinders Ln, Melbourne PH: 9650 4399 FACEBOOK: TheJournalCafe TWITTER: JournalCafe www.journalcafe.com.au Feeling very relaxed after our leisurely morning, we moved on to discover another of the City Precinct’s more unique and hidden members, the Journal Café and Canteen discreetly tucked away in front of the City Library. On entering the café, we were immediately hit by a combination of familiar and comforting smells - toasted sandwiches, freshly roasted coffee and books. Combined with dark wooden tables and leather seats, the café had such a homely feel and seemed the perfect spot to read a book or catch up with friends for some academic conversation. As we settled in and ordered a round of coffees, we mused among ourselves that the vibe of this café was hipster, but before hipster was even a trend. I don’t think even our group of mega-foodies were expecting just how epic 11
Journal’s club sandwiches would be; huge is an understatement. Lightly toasted and filled with chicken, homemade mayonnaise with dill and capers, tomato and lettuce. Traditional and simple, but with a gourmet touch, and oh so Instagram worthy! KIRKS WINE BAR & THE FRENCH SALOON Little Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000 PH: 9600 4550 INSTAGRAM: kirkswinebar | frenchsaloon FACEBOOK: Kirks-Wine-Bar | frenchsaloon TWITTER: kirkswinebar | frenchsaloon www.kirkswinebar.com www.frenchsaloon.com Sufficiently sandwiched, but still somehow able to muster up some kind of appetite, we trekked to the very edge of popular Hardware Lane to discover another somewhat hidden gem, Kirks Wine Bar and the French Saloon. From the same genius that bought The European to Melbourne, this two storey European style bar and bistro functions as two separate spaces. The upstairs French Saloon serves sophisticated French fare in a relaxed, lofty space that doubles as a unique function room, complete with its own terrace balcony. Kirks, on the ground level operates as a Parisian style wine bar, offering share plates, including the most brilliant charcuterie platter I have seen in Melbourne. Even with the array of stunning food and wine on offer, for me, the most intriging aspect about Kirk’s was the hidden away, private dining. Following our waitress down a spiral metal staircase, Snapchat at the ready, we all “oohed” and “aahed” as we were escorted into an intimate private dining area (which also doubles as a wine cellar). Here we shared French wine and freshly prepared charcuterie. Whilst Kirk’s website states no bookings, let us tell you a little secret - this area can be booked for lunch or dinner for six to 10 people. GLAMP BAR 267 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000 PH: 9650 2811 INSTAGRAM: glampbar polepolebar.com.au By this time of the day, after our aperitifs and wine, it was time for some serious drinks. And who better to visit for serious drinks than the cocktail master himself, Ben Hehir of Glamp Bar, the stylish African inspired venue situated above Polepole. Ben’s bar tending resume is incredibly impressive, having worked in some of London and New York’s best cocktail bars and having trained under the inventor of the espresso martini himself, Dick Bradsell. The perfect afternoon ‘pick me ups’ after a long day of eating and touring, Ben prepared for us some of the most incredible
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La Vita Buona is a beautiful venue, featuring an elegant décor of blonde wood and exposed brick walls. Not for the last time that day, we felt as though we had found a little slice of Europe in the heart of the Melbourne CBD. coffee based cocktails I have tried. The Coffee Negroni even had those of us who weren’t usually keen on Negronis, completely swooning. Just as inspiring as his cocktails, was Ben’s philosophy on the hospitality industry, the importance of customer interaction, and the firm belief in his role as being someone who should be creating a positive experience for everybody who walks into his bar. The experience of watching an artist at work, in his element, tasting the art itself and listening to somebody who loves and knows the industry so well tell us about his experiences was such an entertaining way to spend an hour. After a few cocktails, we called it a day and headed home with very happy, full tummies. Our tour gave us a satisfying yet only very small glimpse of the many food and beverage related businesses associated with the City Precinct. We walked (rolled) away with a better idea of the importance of having a networking committee embracing, overseeing and helping to guide the community culture of this bustling part of the city. We look forward to seeing what they have in store over the coming months. CITY PRECINCT www.cityprecinct.com.au TWITTER: CityPrecinct FACEBOOK: CityPrecinct INSTAGRAM: cityprecinct
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ROYAL MAIL
WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE AND THE ROYAL MAIL
The Grampians in Victoria are abundant in gourmet produce and
available at the Dunkeld destination. Keen to put his own stamp on the
vibrant vineyards. With both the Pyrenees and Grampian wine regions,
kitchen-garden concept, Wickens sought to instil a philosophy of a truly
there is so much to see, experience and taste, that the three-hour drive
honest kitchen garden. ‘Kitchen gardens are a very trendy thing right now,
from Melbourne is definitely worth it. Indeed, it’s such a wine and food
and a lot of PR spin goes into them sometimes’, says Wickens. ‘I wanted
destination, the recent Grape Escape wine festival was held in Halls Gap.
to be able to say we do actually get 85 - 90% of the produce from our
But when someone mentions ‘The Grampians’ in the same sentence as
garden.’
‘food’, there is one inevitable conclusion a foodie’s mind jumps to: The Royal Mail Hotel.
The garden has grown considerably in the last three years, now taking up just under a hectare, complete with geese that act as the organically-
Robin Wickens—head chef at the Royal Mail—recently made the trip back
friendly pest control, and with some newly implemented snail farms and
to the inner city (pressure), and cooked up a grand gastronomic dinner at
mushroom cultivation—not to mention livestock, too. Even given it’s epic
iconic Melbourne metro restaurant, Eureka 89. We took the chance to talk
size, the menu still comes second to what’s happening in the garden, and
to him about flavour, farming and fresh produce.
ends up being reliant on the success of produce. ‘It’s very dictated by what
Wickens started working at the Royal Mail in 2013, after an impressive
the garden does, rather than what we want to cook’, says Wickens. ‘If we
career cooking in London and Australia. Originally hesitant to step back
can’t grow it, we won’t use it, so there’ll never be mangoes, or tropical
into the kitchen, Wickens changed his mind upon seeing the resources
fruits’. While this seasonal cooking approach can at times be limited, it
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also depends strongly on a chefs ability to be imaginative, he continues;
creativity that lead to mind blowing dishes, such as the chestnut ice-cream
‘Coming into winter when there’s not that much around, you have to be
we were able to taste at the Eureka 89 dinner. This smoothly rich and nutty
pretty creative, lots of stinging nettles,’ Wickens laughs.
dessert was created using chestnut leaves—believe it or not—resulting in a memorably unique flavour. Wickens mentions another popular dish—
The other downfall to a seasonal kitchen is the regularity—or lack thereof—
also ice cream—that has been ‘a real hit of late’, the eggplant ice cream
of ingredients the Royal Mail are reliant on using for each season. Wickens
sandwich appetiser (so visit when you know it’s eggplant season!).
loves to cook ‘whatever’s new’. He says, ‘We’ve got so many quinces at the moment—which is great—but I have a very low attention span I think, so in
The menu served up at Eureka 89 was packed full of intriguing tastes,
another week I’ll be bored with quinces.’ It’s not just the poor quinces that
from a rich (as in ‘I’m a billionaire that owns ten Maseratis, not just one’
get a bad rap, Wickens jokes, telling us; ‘We hang out for the first tomatoes
rich) pork jowl served with acorn puree, fig compote and beans, matched
of the season, and then by now we just can’t look at another tomato.’
with a 2014 Mount Macleod Pinot Noir from Victoria, to a tender and soft
The Royal Mail menu changes weekly, sometimes even more frequently,
lamb with nutty and unique sunchoke and sunflower seeds, paired with a
relying on a truly flexible and inventive cooking style. The term ‘seasonal’ is
2013 Masssolino, Langhe Nebbiolo from Piedmont in Italy. The standout
thrown around a lot in relation to cooking these days, but Wickens believes
was absolutely the aforementioned chestnut ice cream, served with blood
his team take it to the next level. Their kitchen-garden ethos renders them
orange and chestnut puree, and matched with a decadent 2012 Disznoko
unable to shop around for what they want at farmers markets, but to have
‘late harvest’ Tokaj from Hungary.
to wait until produce is ready to be harvested. ‘At the start of spring you see all the Instagram shots of people using asparagus and broad beans, and
The metropolitain backdrop was a stark contrast to the regional produce
we don’t have any! We’re just sitting, waiting for it, going “come on, come
on our plates, but it worked well, as Wickens states, to celebrate the
on!” So we are whatever the next stage from seasonal is,’ says Wickens.
juxtaposition: ‘The Eureka tower is an iconic destination in Melbourne, and the Royal Mail Hotel is an iconic destination in regional Victoria, so it’s great
There are however loads of benefits that come with growing your own
that we have an opportunity to bring two exciting landmarks together in
food, such as access to ingredients that many chefs pay a premium for,
such an innovative way.’
says Wickens: ‘We have things like zucchini flowers which in a normal kitchen are quite expensive, but we have so many that we’re making soups
As the Eureka Tower in Melbourne is a tourist hot-spot, The Royal Mail
and sauces, and you can get quite extravagant with things like that.’ Using
Hotel is in itself a destination. There are some pretty great things about
a zucchini flower to create soup seems extreme, but it’s these leaps of
The Grampians, Wickens tell us: ‘I think The Grampians is a pretty amazing
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part of Australia, and especially Victoria—it’s not everyone’s first idea of a
While we jumped at the opportunity to skip out on the three hour drive,
place to go. They all go to the Great Ocean Road or they go to the snow,
but still enjoy the sensational offerings of an amazing kitchen—and its
it’s almost like this forgotten area that people don’t even know exists. It’s
garden—it’s safe to say that team GRAM would not hesitate to jump in
really such an iconic place, amazing scenery, and you can have a really
the car next time, and make the well-worth-it trip along to Dunkeld, in
good meal too.’ The offering at the Royal Mail is set to get a whole lot
ravishing regional Victoria.
more exciting in the near future—we didn’t realise that was possible!—with a plan of becoming completely self-sustaining, a collaboration with Yarra
ROYAL MAIL HOTEL
Valley Winery, and the workings of being able to harvest honey, truffles and
98 Parker Street, Dunkeld
pork soon, too.
relax@royalmail.com.au, +61 3 5577 2241
PARK RD
GAOL RD
MACKEN
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ROSALIND PARK RD
CREEK ST NTH
BULL ST
PALL MALL
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BATH LN
MITCHELL ST
EDWARD ST
ARTHUR ST
WILLS ST
QUEEN ST
MYERS ST
WILLIAMSON ST
MYRTLE ST
QUEEN ST
ST. ANDREWS AVE
HARGREAVES ST
HARGREAVES ST
KING ST
GARSED ST
HOWARD ST
CAR P
BENDIGO RAILWAY STATION
McLAREN ST
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RUSSELL ST
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MOLLISON ST
GALVIN ST
6 minutes walk GLADSTONE ST
OLINDA ST
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HOPPER ST
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RNB
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TWD1602
HOPETOUN ST
MUNDY ST
CREEK ST STH
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CHAPEL ST
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13 minutes walk
What do we love about Chefs Hat? A fantastic product range and great service. To us, Chefs Hat just feel like an extension of our team at Giddiup. Oh... And did we mention that they’re at our doorstep?!
Angie & Kirbie – Owners GIDDIUP
We use Chef’s Hat as our main supplier for everything from glassware through to pastry cutters. They are an amazing source of nearly every item you could need to run your hospitality business. They are extremely helpful on the phone and have a fantastic team of staff that are always on hand to help us with whatever we need.
“Chef’s Hat has everything I need under one roof
I regularly use their website which is always up
and at the best prices. It’s a great feeling to know
to date and is a fantastic point of reference to see
that when you walk into Chef’s Hat, you will get the
visually what you would like to order. We would
level of care for your business that we put into our
highly recommend any new or old business to
family business. “
seek these guys out!
Greg Pappas
Carron Gordon - Hospitality Administrator
ANDREW’S BURGERS, ALBERT PARK
INNOCENT BYSTANDER VIGNERONS & WINEMAKERS
“My restaurant has used the services of Chef’s Hat for approximately 3 years. Initially for major kitchen equipment during a renovation, extending to various crockery, glassware, cutlery and utensils. During this time, we have developed a dependable relationship with Chef’s Hat.. Their range, quality, service and support is excellent and competitively priced. I highly recommend Chef’s Hat for a restaurant/cafe’s needs.”
Andrew Daniell – Owner
ANCHORAGE
“We have been working with Chef’s Hat for over 6 years now across all 11 of our hospitality venues and we are absolutely delighted with the service. They take the time to work on our needs, circumstances & preferences for each individual site. They offer great turnaround times, easy ordering systems and smooth account operation. We highly recommend Chef’s Hat for your hospitality needs.”
Karen Owen - Operations Manager JBS HOSPITALITY GROUP
ANDREW’S BURGERS
GIDDIUP
INNOCENT BYSTANDER
ANCHORAGE
JBS HOSPITALITY GROUP
“I’ve been ordering kitchen supplies from Chef’s Hat for eight years now. Across my three Melbourne restaurants (Añada, Bomba and Green Park) we order everything from sponges to paella pans, they always arrive in top nick and on time. I recommend Chefs Hat to home cooks and restaurant cooks alike, you’ll get the best service no matter how big your kitchen.”
Jesse Gerner - Owner and Chef
ANADA, BOMBA AND
GREEN PARK DINING.
“When I’m looking for innovative products, new concepts and quality, with knowledgeable service that always makes you feel like a part of a team, Chef’s Hat always has what I’m after.”
David Stewart - Owner and Chef
ASCOT FOOD STORE
“Chef’s Hat always has what we need and if it’s something they don’t usually stock they go out of their way to source it for us or point us in the right direction. They’re always available to answer any queries I might have and when placing my order I know it will turn up on time and correct, every time.”
Daragh Khan, Kent Bell, Mike Patrick, Myles Munro - Owners FANCY HANKS
“The restaurant game is populated with bigtalkers but precious few who can do what they promise. Chef’s Hat has been, from the beginning, a restaurateur’s best friend. Accessible, dynamic and dripping with ideas. Restaurant openings are nightmarish enough but with Chefs Hat on your side the pain is considerably less. I wouldn’t dream of doing business without them.”
Erez Gordon – Restaurant Owner, Consultant & Front of House Specialist BISHOP SESSA
ANADA, BOMBA GREEN PARK
ASCOT FOOD STORE
FANCY HANKS
BISHOP SESSA
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
SO:ME SPACE - A SUPER COOL SHOPPING EXPERIENCE SO:ME Space is a unique retail concept in the heart of the South Melbourne Market dedicated to great design, fashion, homewares and creativity. The permanent stalls in the space include the home of Rollie shoes – Lost in Seasons; TheSuperCool showcasing the latest trends in home and giftware; Stone, Glint and Bone with their own eclectic range of jewellery; Bakerlite specialising in Papillionaire bicycles and accessories; and Mr Simple and Hew both with a great range of clothing for the lads. There is also an ever changing pop-up space offering an opportunity for emerging SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
local designers to promote their products and spread their name. During May we’ll be showcasing brands including Constance Roe, Banjara, Sarah van Oosterom, Lolicu, Millie Archer, Jack and Jules, ShopWisely, Koenji Vintage and Cactus Country. For more information visit somespace.com.au
STOP. TURMERIC AND LISTEN... WHAT IS GOLDEN GRIND EXACTLY? A delicious, all natural, super food so tasty to drink, you’ll be left wanting more.
The team behind Golden Grind have a
It is the perfectly proportioned blend of 100% natural, unmodified turmeric,
blended abundance of experience in
cinnamon, ginger and black pepper.
hospitality and FMCG whilst together
Our special blend creates an amazing hot golden drink just by adding hot
include a nutritionist, a sportsman and
water and your favourite milk or mylk at home, or easily transformed in the
a model. Turmeric and golden lattes
perfect café golden latte.
certainly
The overwhelming health properties of these ingredients include, although
category and their market presences is
are not limited to:
definitely here to stay.
• Highly anti-inflammatory • Strong anti-oxidant • Great for gut health
We hope you get the chance to enjoy
• Caffeine, sugar, gluten, nut and dairy free drink alternative
our product and allow your insides to
Having had enormous success selling golden lattes at their formally owned
enjoy the instant benefits.
café, Evolve Fair Food Store, Golden Grind is the answer to the do-it-yourself
Enjoy. Be Bliss. Be present. Be Golden
mixing process.
#iamgold
fall
into
the
“superfoods”
Golden Grind is available to purchase online, WWW.GOLDENGRIND.COM.AU
LIBERTY KOMBUCHA
20
Created by Melbourne cafe-industry husband and
mother culture – also known as a SCOBY (symbiotic
wife duo James McKay and Jacqui Alexander, Liberty
culture of bacteria and yeast) – it becomes alive. This
Kombucha is brewed and bottled by hand in small-
mother culture activates the drink, propelling it into
batches. An ancient elixir that has been enjoyed
a living and healing beverage. After a fermentation
for centuries, Liberty Kombucha uses all organic
period of roughly three weeks, the flavour of the
ingredients and is full of healthy, living bacteria
drink is crafted by adding fruits, roots and spices to
known as probiotics.
the mix.
Kombucha is a fermented tea, a super drink that
Find
supports the nervous system and aids in the
Melbourne including Kettle Black, Barry Coffee and
digestive process. Kombucha is made by brewing a
Food and Sir Charles.
large amount of tea and then, with the addition of
LIBERTYKOMBUCHA.COM
Liberty
Kombucha
at
cafes
throughout
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
1
2
4 3
MOUNT ZERO ON SALE - THE GRAM STORE Mount Zero Olives is a family owned olive grove three hours west of Melbourne on the northern edge of the Grampians National Park in Victoria, Australia. Commitment to flavour, sustainable farming, ethical harvest and a passion for quality produce defines Mount Zero Olives and all that we grow and gather. Planted in the 1940’s, The Mount Zero Olive Grove is one of oldest olive groves in Australia. 1. BIODYNAMIC FRENCH STYLE FINE GREEN LENTILS 500gm As the name suggests, these lentils are a variety originating from Puy in France. However these lentils grow exceptionally well in the soils of the Wimmera, and are a favourite amongst our restaurant customers. Renowned for their deep nutty flavour and for holding their shape when cooked, these lentils are as perfect for summer salads as they are in winter soups and braised dishes. A great companion to feta, chevre, mint, peas, tomatoes and game. These lentils do not need to be soaked and take about 20 minutes to cook. MAY ONLY: $6.35 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25
2. DRESSING FAVOURITES (OEVOO, RED-WINE VINEGAR, L-P EVOO) Gold Medal favourites, one and all! This is a medley for all occasions featuring 100ml Lemon-pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil, 100ml Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and 100ml Matured Red Wine Vinegar. MAY ONLY: $12.70 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25 3. BIO-DYNAMIC OLIVE LEAF TEA Made from the leaves of the manzanilla olive trees which have the highest therapeutic antioxidant qualities. The leaves are steamed, rubbed, rolled and dried with care in a traditional Japanese green tea processing plant in Victoria, maintaining excellent colour and nutritional value. MAY ONLY: $10.10 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25 4. RED WINE VINEGAR Aged in oak barrels, Mount Zero Red Wine Vinegar, has a deep berry/plum flavour taken from its main ingredient, wine, which is made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. MAY ONLY: $10.90 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25
u
hat.com.a
www.chefs
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22
MATCHA MYLKBAR WORDS BY AMBER DE LUCA-TAO
Matcha Mylkbar is the newest and freshest vegan café to hit the Melbourne
And by vegan I not only mean plant-based, but food with a purpose. A
food scene. The café itself is situated in the heart of St Kilda, right on
purpose to address the unethical practices of caged and confined mass
the corner that marks the intersection between Acland Street and The
production that currently exists. (Now do you see why rating their non-
Esplanade.
caffeine lattes is a totally shallow angle to this piece. Although it must be said, my cacao latte was extremely smooth, silky and a perfect balance of
These days there are dozens of eateries with menus that once upon a time
sweet and bitter. Would recommend.)
may have been considered ‘a little left of field’. If you consider yourself a frequent and educated Melbourne brunch-goer, you would probably agree
So as a result, they have taken proactive measures to address the
that mushroom bacon is no longer a surprise to find in the additional items
aforementioned issue. Cue vegan eggs™.
section of the menu. Matcha Mylkbar’s vegan eggs™ are an original recipe. They look like The Matcha Mylkbar is completely plant-based, so yes, you can add
traditional eggs, have a similar texture to that of traditional eggs and even
mushroom bacon to your toast. But one Melbourne breakfast regular you
come complete with the same yolk experience. We’re talking the same
won’t find on the menu is caffeine. Turmeric lattes, beetroot lattes, cacao
amount of pleasure of slicing into the little bundle of joy to be greeted with
lattes, mushroom lattes. But no café lattes.
the exact runniness and thick consistency of a perfectly cooked poachie. *Melbourne rejoices*
Co-owner Mark Fillipelli says that the team were confident in their menu from the beginning.
Mark says, “It’s a little sweeter in taste than a traditional egg, but more compassionate.”
So this is not going to be a stock standard write-up about how satisfied I am with my coffee and if my amount of smashed avo was acceptable.
There are three simple whole-food staples that are needed to create the
Because no disrespect to every Melbourne brunch review ever written in
vegan egg: coconut mylk, sweet potato and linseed, the ingredient that is
history, it would be to an extent, an extremely superficial way to discuss
responsible for giving it the same protein content as a traditional egg. The
Matcha Mylkbar.
process however, is kept under tight lock and key.
With all the plant-based eateries around Melbourne at the moment, what
If there’s one thing for sure, it’s that Matcha Mylkbar is a serious game
makes Matcha Mylkbar stand out from the rest? You’re probably thinking,
changer and strong forerunner in the future of modern brunch. It has set
well that’s obvious. There’s matcha in everything. Well, think again.
a new standard for the level of innovation and sustainability that can be incorporated into a both a healthy and deliciously satisfying meal.
To be more accurate, only one third of the menu’s items contain matcha. Matcha pancakes, matcha smoothie bowls and matcha burger buns that
This is definitely a brunch hotspot you want to put on your to-eat-at list.
are as green as a luscious patch of freshly mown grass in spring. This is
But don’t get too ahead of yourself because you’re going to have to get
definitely an aspect that makes Matcha Mylkbar unique. But this is not
in line.
their only drawcard. MATCHA MYLKBAR The team behind Matcha Mylkbar are all non-vegans. So believe me when
72A Acland Street, St Kilda
I say that they have achieved their goal to create meals that people won’t
matchamylkbar.com
realise are completely vegan.
INSTAGRAM: matcha_mylkbar
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INTERVIEW: BRYAN PETROFF BIG GAY ICE CREAM WORDS BY LAUREN BRUCE
Before Messina, before Pidapipo, and before all the other boundary-pushing
that we were actually [starting] a shop that would be open full-time, all year
ice cream products were being pumped out around the world at the
round, we had to start making decisions. So I quit my job and Doug pulled
alarming rate they are now, there existed in the States a little food truck
out of his doctorate program [at Julliard].
with a big personality: the Big Gay Ice Cream truck. You made quite a, some would say, political statement with the brand Only a few years after Twitter and Facebook were launched, BGIC co-
name, Big Gay Ice Cream. Was this deliberate?
founders Bryan Petroff and Doug Quint took advantage of the social media
It was actually the opposite of a political statement. We’re not political
platforms to launch a brand of ice cream desserts that were decidedly more
people. [But] as much as we didn’t want to be political, we also didn’t want
adult than could have previously been purchased from a Mr Whippy-style
to be a gimmick, because we wanted people to realise we were actually
van.
paying attention to the quality of what we were doing and presenting.
Since the truck graced New York streets for the first time in 2009, Petroff
So the name was a lark. Doug made a comment on Facebook that was
and Quint have launched three stores, written a recipe book and become
something to the affect of, “Hey, I’m going to have a big gay ice cream
firm friends with Anthony Bourdain, the world’s most reputable foul-
truck this summer. So I’m going to start a blog if you guys want to follow
mouthed food writer.
the adventures and are interested.” And then we were like, “Well, that’s our name.”
We spoke to Petroff in Melbourne during the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival to talk all things sophisticated soft serve, accidentally political
So no motivation [other than] we liked the ambiguity of it, we like the play
business names and why Big Gay Ice Cream loves coming to Australia.
on “happy” or “gay”, and once we had the name we gave it to our friend who is an art director who came up with the logo for it.
Bryan you were working in Human Resources and Doug was a classical bassoonist when you decided to start the Big Gay Ice Cream truck. What
We actually did a presentation in Toronto two years ago where the theme of
made you opt for such a drastic career change?
the convention was ‘Food As A Social Change’ and we talked about being
The truck was really just happenstance. In 2009, a friend of Doug’s – they
accidentally political. What we realise is that people look at us however they
went to Julliard together – had been featured in the New York Times
want to look at us. We try to remain apolitical, [so] if they see us as weird
regarding her ice cream truck, and it got recognition and coverage and that
kooky people who are just having fun, then that’s who we are. If they think
kind of intrigued people.
we’re the antichrist trying to indoctrinate children through ice cream…
She knew Doug was looking for something to do over the summer, so she
Jeez! Have you come across that?!
was like, “Do you want to do this?” And he said, “Sure”. I came on board
Oh yeah.
because it was an opportunity to create a little mobile restaurant. And what do you do with that stuff? Do you simply ignore it and move on? [Doug’s friend] was just [operating it as] a Mr Whippy truck, so I said, “Let’s
You have to. It’s just so ridiculous… and in my mind, they’re projecting their
have a little fun with the menu.” The truck owner let us do that and let us
own sense of fear and how they look at the world [onto us]. It’s like, my god,
brand it. We did that for three summers as a seasonal truck, and it wasn’t
if you think we’re going after children, then you are way beyond what I or
until we opened our first shop in 2011 that we had to make a big decision,
ice cream can do for you.
you know: are we ice cream people or is this just a summer project? Now
25
I remember when you guys started, I was back in Melbourne following the
You’ve got three shops now; two in New York and one in Philadelphia. So
ice cream truck’s whereabouts on twitter going, nobody else is doing this
what have been the main differences between running an ice cream truck
“sophisticated soft serve” stuff. How did you come up with that concept?
and operating stores?
It was just because it was there. That was the truck that we had, and it was
Um, It’s a lot more expensive. We did everything as cheaply as we really
like, “Well, let’s not do the same old thing. Let’s have fun with it.” Our feeling
could [with the truck] – we didn’t actually own it so we rented it on a daily
was Mr Whippy hadn’t changed their menu in decades, and there’s so much
basis. Whereas every shop we opened cost about four times as much as the
more you could do with it. While we didn’t cook ourselves, we loved going
previous one. And there are more expectations now – we have 50 employees
out to eat, and we loved following chefs and pastry chefs, and had travelled
and they count on us and the decisions that we make to remain employed
internationally and so we tried to bring in all of those concepts.
and to remain in great work environments. So it’s a little less flexible.
We thought of it like, if the truck was inside a restaurant, what would it
We read our audiences much more closely now than we used to, and our
be doing? And so bringing in olive oil and sea salt and ginger and curry
production is much greater than it used to be. As opposed to a couple of
and wasabi and all these flavours Mr Whippy never approached, it seemed
zip lock bags of stuff on the truck, now it’s 25 gallons of whatever ingredient
very natural. We even would joke, like, “Why, why hasn’t anybody done this
and that costs money and you don’t wanna waste anything.
before? Why did it take until the 2000s before somebody thought, hey, this can be more than just cherry dip?”
And I think we’ve realised what we do and don’t wanna do, the costs involved, and the importance of kind of straddling that line and keeping
So did you anticipate then that that would be a success? I remember the
it fun but professional, listening to the audience while staying true to our
photos you posted on twitter with lines for days outside the truck.
roots where we started. BGIC wouldn’t have existed and it wouldn’t be what
We didn’t anticipate anything! It was so crazy. We’ve been very gob-
it is without the two of us. I think I kind of reign in Doug and Doug pulls
smacked at times about it (in a good way) and we like having fun and all
weirdness out of me, so there’s a nice push-pull going on there.
these things keep it fun for us. Like coming [to Australia for the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival], everything is a new adventure and a new learning
It definitely makes you realise that starting a business by yourself is ungodly
experience.
difficult and knowing that you can rely on somebody else who has the exact same values and mindset is a really great thing because I don’t know how people could do this stuff on their own.
26
You’ve come to Melbourne a couple of times now - what keeps you coming
Did you enjoy working with Messina in Melbourne?
back?
We were introduced to them through Good Food Month last time we were
Well you keep inviting us pretty much [laughs]. We like working with friends,
here, and since you can’t import dairy into the country and there wasn’t
basically. We like our extended “Big Gay Family” – you know, [people and
really time and space [for us] to make stuff [for the event], they put us
chefs that] we’ve met on this journey, and people that get us and stick
together so collaboration could happen.
around and really love what we do. It’s fun to be in a new sphere of influence. There’s a lot of collaboration that goes on these days and it’s just great to
It’s just kindred spirits, you know. I I’ve found that the people I met here in
get your presence out there and to meet new people.
the pastry world are much like us. They understand how fun pastries and ice cream can be and how it’s okay to have fun. That was a big thing for us.
Yeah and I think for us it’s nice because you operate in a silo a lot, and you
And when you’re working in a kitchen long hours, you’ve gotta be able to
don’t know what’s going on with your friends, and you don’t know what
have fun when you’re working so hard.
s going on with the restaurant next door to you, because you’re just so focused on your own work. So to be able to catch up with your friends and
Exactly. And the last thing you should be smug about is ice cream. This is a
to do it by working together on something, I think that’s a lot of fun.
childhood comfort food. So when we came across and met people here like the owners of Messina, and Katherine Sabbath who we met last time and
So what’s your favourite classic Big Gay Ice Cream flavour?
Andy Bowdy [pastry chef, Andy Bowdy Pastry and formerly Hartsyard]…
My favourite ice cream [dessert] in general is hot fudge sundaes with
they’re great technically, you know, they know their shit, but they love having
peanuts and whipped cream. I like our hot fudge a lot so just a very classic
fun with it too.
[sundae]. I think both Doug and I are classics at heart; we both grew up with a very traditional ice cream experience.
Ice cream should be fun. It’s the most fun food there is. And this is our idea of fun and it’s Messina’s idea of fun and it’s Pierre’s [Ice Cream Company’s]
If I want something palate cleansing and clean, lemon sorbet would be the
idea of fun. That’s why I think we like coming back here and I think we get a
opposite end of the spectrum. Either I need a refreshing fruity clean taste, or
great reception when we’re here. Because Australians like having fun.
if I just need to wallow in my tears than I’ll go the hot fudge route [laughs]. BIG GAY ICE CREAM biggayicecream.com
27
28
BAYSIDE BREWERY WOLF OF THE WILLOWS WORDS BY ELLA PLEASANT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN SCHMIDEG
Any hipster worth his hops knows that Melbourne is all about craft beer.
“Our ISA – India Saison is one that tends to push the boundaries,” Renae
The last few years have seen a move away from the stock standard on-taps
explains. “While a standard Saison style does not have hops included, but
and bottled imports to the more artisan ales, brewed and bottled just a
since our name is all about hops, why not put some in?” And why not,
few ‘burbs over. One such Victorian craft brewery, Wolf of the Willows, has
indeed. Nelson hops gives the beer a wine-like, Sauvignon Blanc character,
earned a stellar reputation for its hand crafted, modern ales, each batch
with spicy berry nut and a refreshing hit of mango, passionfruit and tropical
produced from start to finish by Scotty and Renae McKinnon.
fruits. Best paired with Asian and seafood style dishes, we’re told.
The husband and wife duo launched Wolf of the Willows in November
Their third brew, the JSP – Johnny Smoke Porter, is a different take on
2014. Starting with an XPA – Extra Pale Ale, Scotty and Renae gypsy-
the robust classic. Influenced by Scotty’s love of “nerdy beer history”, the
brewed for their first year, borrowing other people’s equipment to develop
JSP – Johnny Smoke Porter is a historical throwback to what they believe
their range, before teaming up with Bad Shepherd Brewing Co and setting
a traditional London Porter would have tasted like, back in the times when
their roots in a Cheltenham. A fitting move for the couple, who have called
open fire was used to malt barley. The end result is a firm malt profile that
Bayside home for the last 15 years.
is smoky yet balanced by sweetness on the palate. A go-to winter warmer.
Scotty’s love of brewing started young, helping his dad brew homemade
Now settled in the their Cheltenham brewery, Scotty and Renae have had
ginger beer on his family’s property in rural Victoria. Years later, time
time to work on more brews, recently releasing the final piece of their core
spent as a ski bum in Colorado gave Scotty an introduction to the world
range puzzle, the IPA – India Pale Ale they call ‘Homage’, along with some
of American craft brewing. This, he says, was followed by “many years of
limited release beers.
perfecting beer recipes, growing hops on the family farm and of course, plenty of ‘market research’”.
So, what’s next for the brewing duo? Lots, it would appear. As part of Good Beer Week, Wolf of the Willows have teamed up with famed Melbourne
A sales and marketing gun, Renae made her start working late night
chef Daniel Wilson for ‘Cooking with Craft Beer Master Class’. Held at
hospitality shifts (at a number of reputable restaurants and bars in
South Melbourne’s Urban Kitchen on May 17, guests will be taught how to
Melbourne and London, no less) before moving into events management
cook favourite dishes, all prepared with craft beer, before they cook and
and wine marketing for a highly-regarded distribution company. With a
consume their own three course fine dining creations. And, just to sweeten
brain for business and a love of all things craft beer, launching Wolf of the
the deal, the full range of Wolf of the Willows beers is included as part of
Willows was just “a natural progression” for Renae.
the experience, including rare and limited releases. Now we’ll cheers to that.
As for the inspiration behind the name, they say Scotty’s nerdy love for beer history is to blame. “We loved the story about Pliny the Elder, a Roman
WOLF OF THE WILLOWS
military man, naturalist and botanist, who was known to have named the
386 Reserve Road, Cheltenham
hop bine ‘Lupus Salictarius’...Latin for Wolf of the Willows.” The hop bine,
wolfofthewillows.com.au
as the story goes, looked as if were trying to strangle and take down the
facebook.com/wolfofthewillows | twitter.com/wolfofthewillow
willow trees, much like a wolf would take down its prey.
instagram.com/wolfofthewillows
This appreciation for history can be seen throughout the Wolf of the
Search for ‘Wolf of the Willows’ on goodbeerweek.com.au for tickets to
Willows brewing process; Scotty and Renae use traditional craft brewing
the Cooking with Craft Beer Master Class
techniques and “no bullshit rubbish additives and chemicals”, foregoing the pasteurization process and giving the brews plenty of ferment and conditioning time. The result? Exceptional crafts beers that, while staying true to style, can often stray from the norm.
29
REVIEWS TEMPLE BOLD NEW WORLD IMPERIAL STOUT WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON Take a trip to the dark side… and leave your car keys
What Simon was trying to say is Bold New World presents
behind
a jet black appearance with a sexy coffee-coloured head, a moderate level of carbonation and roasted, chocolate
May the Fourth is both a great day for beer-loving Star
flavour that compliments the dried fruit aroma and 10%
Wars nerds and the worst day for unfortunate souls
alcohol beautifully.
hoping to hide their speech impediment. Don’t restrict this beer to a beer glass however. Frake Some seriously cool beers have appeared over the last
continues, “it is a serious beer, but can be treated as a bit
few years, the most well-known being Holgate’s Millenium
of fun too. Bold New World poured over vanilla ice cream
Falcon Triple IPA, and this year the guys from the Jedi
is like the Eton Mess equivalent in all the finest Death Star
Temple in Brunswick East have paid homage to everything
venues. Coming in to the Victorian Autumn season, there’s
alluring about the dark side.
nothing better than an earthy, warming monster stout.”
Head Brewer, Glenn Harrison is a devout dark beer
Brewing beer this good isn’t like dusting crops boy, this
worshipper, yet it’s his passion for absolute balance in the
beer is seriously Empire Strikes Back good. As Yoda
Force that shines through with this particular beer. I can’t
would say, “When 10% alcohol you reach, taste as good it
help but think this is his New World Order American Stout
will not, hmm?!”
after a solid three week training session on Dagobah. Bold New World is a strictly limited release, out on May 4 I had a chat with Temple’s intergalactic beer smuggler,
at selected venues around Victoria. Be quick, it will go fast!
Simon Frake about their Bold New World. “We just had to make a beer for Star Wars Day. The ‘Imperial’ just
ABV: 10%
represents the Stormtroopers who are misunderstood
STYLE: Imperial Stout
dudes in white plastic with a seriously bad boss, that
SERVING TEMP: 6-8 degrees
would fall down during battles without any apparent
FOOD PAIRING: Womp Rat
injuries. May the Fourth is just transcendentally cool. ”
ORIGIN: 122 Weston St, East Brunswick
HOLGATE WILD RED ALE WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
When leaving a sour taste is a good thing!
In some respects, the Wild Red Ale is the crowning glory derived from many recent releases such as the 2014
Holgate have been around since 1999 and in some ways
Midnight Cowboy Project (Sour Cherry Porter), the Little
have been a victim of their own sure and steady approach.
Red Riding Wood mixed ferment and the early 2015 release
Brewing outstanding ales over a long period of time in a
of the kettle-soured Hop Tart, a semi-sour pale ale.
rapidly expanding industry with new breweries opening around Australia every week has seen the Holgate team
Wine lovers take note - this beer is for those that adore and
get drowned out from time to time thanks to deafening
admire complexity and a refreshing finish. Both a sipping,
white noise in a crowded market.
savouring beer and a food beer. Available from selected stockists around Victoria. Hurry, only 1,200 bottles available!
But it’s with beers like their latest limited release, a Flanders style Wild Red Ale, that reminds everyone just
It gets better. Holgate’s new Keepers Guild means you can
how innovative and on-trend Holgate Brewhouse can be,
become a member and receive super exclusive small batch
capacity allowing of course.
brews like this one delivered straight to your door. Just get on to the website and punch in your details! Cheers!
The Holgate brew team have been relentless in letting owner Paul know of their desire to produce a complex
ABV: 6%
beer such as a Flanders Sour, a style of beer native to the
STYLE: Flanders Style Sour Ale
Flanders in Belgium where lactic acid is used along with an
SERVING TEMP: 6 degrees
extended aging period in oak barrels, red malt for colour
ORIGIN: Woodend, Victoria
and blended with one or more younger versions of itself.
PRICE (RRP): $20 (750ml) BUY IT HERE: www.holgatebrewhouse.com.au
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Showcasing the best of Australia’s independent breweries
BonE NtheD Ihop GO
20 AUGUST 28 BREWERIES, 56 BEERS, NO WINE, NO CIDER tickets on sale from 1 june
www.bendigobeer.com
REVIEWS WILD TIMOR COFFEE CO. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG When discussing coffee varieties you often hear the
and farmers to ensure they benefit from this beautiful
words Arabica and Robusta mentioned. Arabica
product and the growing success of the coffee in
beans are known for a sweeter, smoother flavour
Australia. Most notable is the Wild Water Project
profile while Robusta is what gives you intensity and a
which has recently resulted in the building of a water
hefty hit of caffeine. Over recent years it has become
tank in the village of Belumuhato in the area where the
popular for blends to be 100% Arabica, with Robusta
coffee grows, which now means the inhabitants don’t
seen to be harsher and often inferior. But what if there
need to travel up to 10 kilometres each day for fresh
was another variety, completely different, bringing
drinking water. Most often it is the women and children
together the best of both worlds? Almost like a blend
who make the trip, preventing them from going to
in one bean.
school and their mothers from being able to grow and irrigate the crops. There is also a high mortality rate
Four years ago, four Aussie soldiers stationed in East
amongst children there who have limited access to
Timor as part of a peace keeping mission discovered
water, so these facilities will make a huge difference to
something wild and mysterious, a hybrid coffee in the
the lives of those who reside there.
jungle planted over 200 years ago by the Portuguese and left neglected under Indonesian rule. Over time
One cup of each coffee sold results in one litre of clean
the plants combined creating this organic hybrid
drinking water for those in need and while we may not
which grows pesticide free in the mountain regions
think about it when we order our daily caffeine hit, it is
around Timor-Leste. Without common diseases and
clean water which is also required to make our coffee,
pests which normally affect the coffee, the beans
something we often take for granted. So if you want
also don’t need to be chemically treated before
to be a part of this social project, buy the beans online
importation.
or just go to one of these cafes and order an awesome coffee and see if you’re as wild about it as I am.
Known simply as Wild Timor Coffee, this is not a brew for the faint hearted. It is dark and intense, earthy and
HERE ARE A FEW CAFES WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY WILD TIMOR -
woody, yet still bright. Single origin maybe, but rich and multi layered with a boldness that befits a coffee from this tiny nation who have fought fiercely for their independence. Employing ethical and sustainable practices, the boys wanted to give back to the villages
Wild Timor Coffee - 282 Sydney Road, Coburg Wild Timor Coffee - 251 Faraday Street, Carlton The Espressionist - 100 Lorimer Street, Docklands Gioia Mia - 217-239 Montague Street, South Melbourne Caffe Strada - 197 Upper Heidelberg, Ivanhoe
COOKED - FOOD FOR FRIENDS
100 sensational recipes by more than 40 top cooks and chefs HARDIE GRANT BOOKS RRP $24.99 Cooked: Food for Friends is all about sharing; 100
cake, or Margaret Fulton’s canapé saviours, piroshki.
dishes, all delicious, and many of which you can whip
Whatever the occasion, inspiration for your next
up fast. Across eight chapters, the book presents
gathering starts with Cooked: Food for Friends.
ideas for: backyard grill; impromptu dinners; brunch; picnics; drinks parties; high tea; and the ultimate Sunday roast spread. Packed full of recipes from over 40 of Australia’s favourite chefs and cooks, there is sure to be something to suit everyone’s tastes. The book includes everything you need to satisfy your friends, from impressive dishes you can conjure in minutes, such as Antonio Carluccio’s luscious zabaglione with bitter chocolate sauce, to spectacular feasts for the senses, like Paul Wilson’s sweetcorn French toast with pancetta and avocado or Luke Nguyen’s crisp silken tofu in lemongrass to home comforts with a twist including Alain Ducasse’s roast chicken, Mark Best’s stunning orange and polenta
FARR RISING GAMAY 2015
COOKIE // CBD - BAR/D UP VIDEO FEATURE
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BARD/UP
Geelong, Victoria. RRP: $38
In collaboration with Wolf of the Willows Brewing
You can’t live in Melbourne and not know about Cookie. And if you don’t then you do now. There’s no going back once you’ve climbed the stairs to Level 1 in Curtin House and through the door into this wonderland. A beer hall, eating house and disco, it’s a magical space that does many things and does them well. The walls and shelves are covered with bottles of beautiful alcohol and well-worn children’s books, many of them classics lit gently by flickering candlelight giving this large venue a very cozy feel. It’s like being in the best library ever! Sit in the restaurant and order amazing Thai food from the extensive menu, grab a few quality craft brews from the equally huge beer list and be a part of the frenetic atmosphere I was a big Kath & Kim fan back in the day. I always thought that if they were able to get past their love of drinking Car-don-nay (aka Chardonnay) then maybe their next favourite wine would be one that had a similar ring to it, or at least one that rhymed with Kim’s daughter’s name, Epponnee-Rae. Introducing Gamay (you can picture Kath saying it too, can’t you?). Back on track, Farr Rising is the reputable wine brand crafted by winemaker Nick Farr in the Bannockburn area of Geelong. You’ve got to be delicate with a grape like Gamay, so Nick uses whole bunch fermentation to kick-start a brighter red fruit aroma spectrum followed by maturation in old barrels. The result is a wine with a definitive carbonic nose of wild strawberry, peppercorn, pomegranate and a hint of kola nut. There is plenty of juicy acidity to keep your lips smacking, complemented with a savoury undertone of forest floor and delicate earthy tannins. While it is often touted that Gamay is the perfect lunchtime wine, I broke tradition and enjoyed it with a light roast dinner with just as much pleasure. STOCKIST: Direct from the Farr Winery website or ask at your
around you. If you’re lucky a table on one of the Juliet balconies may be available and you can sit outside and get a bird’s eye view of the surrounding city. For a slightly more intimate experience, pop around into the back bar and watch the experts craft their cocktails, with Cookie being home to many award winning bartenders over years this place has been in existence. It’s an institution, a hive of activity, a place where the smells of tasty Asian food waft through the air tantalising your senses and most importantly a bar that prides itself on quality beverages and service. There’s not much more to say. This is Cookie. HEAD TO BARDUP.COM.AU TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO. INSTAGRAM - @bardupmelb FACEBOOK - facebook.com/bardupmelb COOKIE First Level, Curtin House, 252 Swanston Street Melbourne 9663 7660 cookie.net.au facebook.com/Cookie.Melb instagram.com/cookiemelbourne
local wine store
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OUT AND ABOUT UNION DINING / THREE RIVERS LUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
POW KITCHEN LAUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY RICK LISTON PHOTOGRAPHY
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Last month Chef Nicky Riemer of Union Dining in Richmond together with Three Rivers Specialty Meats created a menus with matching wines that truly highlighted the beautiful lamb from this single estate farm north of Echuca. The animals graze on native Old Man Saltbush plants over the summer and autumn
St Kilda’s mightiest mezzanine, the Bandroom Balcony at Prince Of Wales, has bounced into Southern Asian sub- terrain. Give a disco ‘herro’ to POW Kitchen. This oriental overturn, which sees the plus-sized POW personality infused with Southern Asian soul, spells
months producing a tender and sweet meat which is just delicious. Key dishes included a saltbush lamb shank bastilla followed by a lamb shoulder braise with golden roasted beetroot, white bean ragu, salsa verde and saltbush, finishing with an amazing Earl Grey panna cotta with fresh fig and poached rhubarb for dessert.
Summer flings with Singapore Slings, sunset sessions with vinyl concessions, and club nights with flavour- full bites. Authentic flavours from broad-stroke Southern Asia. Curb- side prices. A passport- proud (aka. plenty) selection of beers on tap, cocktails and wine. Bandroom-boom entertainment…
THE DIARY 13 - 22 May, 2016
GOOD BEER WEEK Melborune
The sixth annual Good Beer Week will return to Australia’s craft beer capital for nine days of froth-filled celebrations. 270 events will run across more then 150 venues in Melbourne and Victoria. For the first time, there will be a Good Beer Week App to assist punters on their craft beer adventures. The App lets you view the program and purchase tickets as well as offering guided maps to venues. This year’s program is overflowing with live music events taking place across town: think Northcote Social Club, Cherry Bar, Old Bar, the Rochie, the Great Britain Hotel, the Catfish and more. Highlights include a tribute to The Boss with a Bruce Springsteen themed event. For a slightly more refined take on live music, look no further than the St. Stephen’s Anglican Church for a one-off opera event. You can bet your beer-filled bonnet that foodies will be well catered for with GBW fixtures such as Mega Dega – this year the event will be held at The Craft & Co and feature a new set of all-star chef and brewer teams. Other sought after destinations taking part in the Foodie stream include the renowned degustation at Vue De Monde, The Roving Marrow at The Astor and Brighton’s Half Moon. Beer and spirit pairing is another strong theme in this year’s program, with Gin being the newest beer pairing friend. There will be a gin and hops master-class and a gin, beer and food pairing dinner. Cocktail masters Eau-de-Vie are back this year creating a new selection of cocktails made with beer.
29 May 2016
ITALIAN WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL - MELBOURNE Royal Exhibition Building, Carlton Gardens
Everything that’s good about eating and drinking in Italy comes together under one roof with the first ever Melbourne edition of the Italian Wine + Food Festival. Taste 200 of Italy’s finest wines (including Italian-centric Aussie wines), meet winemakers and importers, including Luca Currado from legendary Piedmont winery Vietti. Wine masterclasses are hosted by Max Allen, sommelier Rocco Esposito hosts Plumm Italian Wine Workshops, or take a Sommelier Tour with one of Melbourne’s finest. Meet chefs Johnny di Francesco (400 Gradi), Rosa Mitchell (Rosa’s Canteen + Rosa’s Kitchen), Nino Zoccali (Sydney’s Pendolino), Paolo Masciopinto (Sarti), Carmine Costantini (Osteria La Passione), Luca Flammia + Francesco Rota (Trattoria Emilia) and David Dellai (Il Bacaro). Expect food from 400 Gradi, 38 Chairs, Caterina’s Cucina e Bar, La Bonta, Bar Idda and Saluministi. Stock up at the food market featuring Pidapipo Gelato, Floridia Cheese, Pasta Classica, Books for Cooks and sweets by Dolcetti.
Rest assured this beer fest isn’t just dominated by beards: a number of events champion the women of the industry and empower women beer professionals to advance their careers in the beer industry through education. International brewers will also flock to Melbourne in May; there will be the chance to meet brew-master Steve Wagner from San Diego based Stone Brewing Co. Other international guests include Brew Dog from Scotland, Palm and Rodenbach breweries from Belgium, Coedo from Japan and Ducato from Italy. Locally, Balter Brewing will make a first time appearance at the festival; the new brewery is based on the Gold Coast and owned by surfers Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Bede Durbidge and Josh Kerr. Since the festivals inception, Good Beer Week’s central aim is to promote good beer and the community and culture that surround it. The festival is achieving this goal with an audience that continues to grow and become more diverse. For the second year, Beer DeLuxe at Federation Square will serve as the festival’s hub with a series of their own fantastic events. Good Beer Week 2016 is an independent and not-forprofit festival that overall celebrates and promotes the renaissance that craft beer is enjoying globally. For the full program and ticket sales, go to goodbeerweek.com.au
May 28, 2016
OYSTER FEAST FUNDRAISER FOR 5CENT The Neff Market Kitchen - Stall 90, Cecil Street, South Melbourne
Feast of Merit is throwing its doors open for a one-night only Oyster Feast! Join us and support YGAP’s 5cent campaign, giving children improved access to a quality education. Monday 9 May @ 7pm Enjoy an all-you-can-eat Oyster Feast. $45 p.p Bubbles on arrival.
May 28, 2016
PORK, FLAME AND PINOT The Deck at The Prince 2 Acland Street, St. Kilda 6.30pm - late
5cent cocktail with all proceeds supporting 5cent campaign
Pulled, belly up, ribbed or classic crackling – however you like it, join us for an evening revelling all things flaming hog, live music and pinot.
Special guest appearance by Lua Lua
Indulge in some of Victorian’s finest free-range pork from Pork + Pinot connoisseur William Downie, as the Deck transforms into a smoky, ruckus fiesta with handpicked pancetta that bellows, cracks and saps over a flaming asado. Caution: continuous smoke inhalation may increase salivation.
Limited tickets so get in quick to reserve your place! More info please contact 5cent@ygap.com.au
www.italianwinefoodfestival.com.au
Four distinct Melbourne Pub Group kitchens will carefully select and carve their chosen meat to produce a finger lickin’ dish, complemented perfectly by their paired pinot producer.
May 22, 2016
STREET FEUD The Deck at The Prince 2 Acland Street, St. Kilda | 12pm $55 - 6 dishes, one from each competiting vendor
It’s dish vs. dish, pinot vs. pinot in a dog pig eat dog pig world. The only winners on the night will be a deck full of happy porkers and pinot punters.
8bit. Mini Double Dragon Burger
POW Kitchen Cha-ca Skewers
Asian sensation POW Kitchen teams up with Mac Forbes, whiles Tex-Mex Acland St Cantina joins forces with Barnaby Flanders form Garagiste. The decedent Circa kitchen collaborates with Garry Mills from Jamsheed, with the pièce de resistance of the night – our primiative pork spit, seasons to perfection and paired perfectly with William Downie’s own Pinot.
Acland St Cantina Spiced Lamb + Pumpkin Quesadilla
Rice Paper Scissors MUU KROBB “Sticky Pork Belly”
Drooling yet? You’ll be as happy as a pig in pinot if you snap up one of these tickets.
Gelato Messina Shhh... It’s a surprise
Tokyo Tina Karage Chicken Bao
$55 | 4 dishes, one from each vendor with matched wine monthoftheprince.com.au
Who serves Melbourne’s best street food? At this sticky finger food festival, Street Feud sees the public scoff and score Melbourne’s favourite sidewalk eats. MENU
Who will take out this year’s trophy? You decide.
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