GRAM Magazine Issue 63 // JULY 2016

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GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 63 FREE

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CONTENTS EATING OUT EAST RESTAURANT AND BAR Gastrology HELLENIC HOTEL Lisa Holmen

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FEATURE

RECIPES

REGULARS

TRUFFLES: FROM HUNT TO

BU SIE ITIK: SLOW-BRAISED DUCK

CONTRIBUTORS

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PLATE Lauren Bruce and Pia Hambour

CURRY WITH PANDAN, CINNAMON

NEWLY OPENED

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AND COCONUT MILK Hujan Locale

AROUND THE TRAPS

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THINGS WE LOVE REVIEWS

REGIONAL REGIONAL VICTORIAN PRODUCE Megan Osborne

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TANDOORI SQUID: STUFFED WITH

OUT AND ABOUT

PANEER CHEESE AND CASHEW

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THE DIARY

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NUT CAULIFLOWER WHY MELBOURNE LOVES

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Sarong 22

ON THE COVER: GARLIC Allium sativum, commonly known as garlic, is a species in the onion genus, Allium. Its close relatives include the onion, shallot, leek, chive, and rakkyo. With a history of human use of over 7,000 years, garlic is native to central Asia, and has long been a staple in the Mediterranean region, as well as a frequent seasoning in Asia, Africa, and Europe. It was known to Ancient Egyptians, and has been used both for food flavoring and traditional medicine.(Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

COVER DESIGN

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au

Jess Hourigan

ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren Bruce DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au

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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE

MEGAN OSBORNE

Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.

Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.

laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia

meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

LISA HOLMEN After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015. lisaeatsworld.com

LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property

TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

with her husband Wootten. ladonnadelvino.com TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino

GASTROLOGY Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food

and

other

deliciously

related

things.

They travel around Melbourne and sometimes

DEAN SCHMIDEG

beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way and reporting back to their readers. www.gastrology.co INSTAGRAM: gastrology.co TWITTER: gastrologyco

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival. TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

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A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb INSTAGRAM: dsimages / bardupmelb TWITTER: imagesDS / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com


Showcasing the best of Australia’s independent breweries

BonE NtheD Ihop GO

20 AUGUST 28 BREWERIES, 56 BEERS, NO WINE, NO CIDER tickets on sale from 1 june

www.bendigobeer.com


NOW OPEN

FREDDIE WIMPOLES OPENED: May 2016 The highly anticipated Freddie Wimpoles is now open for business. Following a takeover from the iconic George Hotel, the name has been changed in honour of the original owner, Frederick Wimpole. The St Kilda venue is set to become a craft-beer destination of choice on Melbourne’s south side with 13 rotating taps and a warm hunting-lodge meets neon-light American diner feel. Coming from The Local Taphouse, Wayne Seberry has taken over the kitchen at Freddie Wimpoles. Seberry took a break as a chef after finishing at The Local Taphouse in January 2015 and has been at Woodfrog Bakery until now. As an avid craft beer lover, Sebbery jumped at the opportunity to join the team. His experience in craft beer pubs all over the world worked perfectly in creating the Freddie Wimpoles menu, which focuses on sub sandwiches, hot dogs and pickled snacks - faultless beer drinking food. All meats, stocks and sauces are made in-house and bread is delivered daily from Bakery Lievito.

MASSI

HIGHER GROUND

OPENED: April 27, 2016 Head chef and owner, Joe Vargetto has recently opened his doors to his new Sicilian restaurant, Massi, in the heart of the thriving Melbourne CBD.

OPENED: July 4, 2016 The team behind Melbourne favourite’s The Kettle Black and Top Paddock have opened the doors to their long awaited new project, Higher Ground. Despite a delayed start due to technical issues with equipment, the wait was well and truely worth it.

With wide success of Joe’s Kew establishment, Mister Bianco since 2011, it was a natural fit to further share his Sicilian cuisine and passion for quality Italian food with authentic flavours to local business, tourists, and CBD clientele. Open for traditional Italian colazione (breakfast bites) lunch and dinner Monday to Friday, Massi is the perfect hotspot for busy corporates to find a rich coffee, power lunches and post-work aperitif and a more intimate dinner setting. With a point of difference offering a licensed bottle shop, by passers can purchase wine from Massi’s extensive museum of selected wines or indulge by the bar and enjoy the city nightlife. 445 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE massi.com.au | facebook.com/massirestaurant

Located on the corner of Little Bourke and Spencer Street, Higher Ground has had Melbourne foodies champing at the bit for well over a year. The 160seat venue has been reimaged by DesignOffice, and transformed from power station into a modern and truely remarkable space, featuring exposed brick, green marble and jaw dropping mezzanine level. Open seven days a week, including three nights, the menu promises to be technically intricate. Daytime diners will enjoy cauliflower scramble with house-made flatbread; roasted mushrooms with polenta; or a wagyu short-rib roll with pickled daikon. 650 LITTLE BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE highergroundmelbourne.com.au instagram.com/highergroundmelbourne

twitter.com/massirestaurant| instagram.com/massirestaurant

125 FITZROY STREET, ST KILDA freddiewimpoles.com| facebook.com/freddiewimpoles instagram.com/freddie_wimpoles

FOURTH CHAPTER OPENED: June 10, 2016 The fourth cafe for owner Sarah Jane Whifield, Fourth Chapter brings a light airyness to High Street, Prahran. Boasting a fresh and nourishing menu, Fourth Chapter is a welcome addition to Melbourne’s food landscape. 385 HIGH STREET, PRAHRAN fourthchapter.com.au instagram.com/fourth_chapter facebook.com/fourthchaptercafe

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THE ALPS WINE SHOP AND BAR

FRESH HOOD MARKET

OPENED: May 20, 2016 The third iteration of Lyndon Kubis’ highly successful neighbourhood haunts Milton Wine Shop and Toorak Celler has opened it’s doors in Prahran.

OPENED: July 16, 2016 Located in a former bingo and fresh food hall on the Preston Market site, the Fresh Hood Market project aims to raise the bar on the North Side with f&b offerings from ‘Henriettas Chicken Shop’ (Albert St Food and Wine), Filipino street food masters ‘Hoy Pinoy’ (Night Noodle Markets, Queen Vic), Melbourne’s original craft beer purveyors ‘3 Ravens Brewery’ and ‘Meet Patty’…a brand new burger venture from Chef Andy Gale (Duchess of Spotswood, St Ali).

The Alps boasts a wine list with more than 400 titles, as well as beers both on tap and in cans, and a bar menu that is everything it should be in this sophistcated wine bar. 64 COMMERCIAL ROAD, PRAHRAN thealpsprahran.com

22-26 CRAMER STREET, PRESTON prestonfreshhood.com | instagram.com/prestonfreshhood


AROUND THE TRAPS OVER THE MOO EXPANDS FLAVOUR RANGE

MELBOURNE CAFE TAKES TOP COFFEE HONOURS

Since launching in May 2015, Over the Moo has enjoyed fantastic success.

Melbourne cafe Patricia has taken out top spot

A Melbourne made coconut milk ice cream, Over the Moo was created

in Yelp’s annual Top Coffee Poll.

because their head honcho, Alex, was tired of the same old dairy free ice cream options.

To determine Australia’s top 100 coffee spots for 2016, the data science brainiacs at Yelp

Distributed through Woolworths and IGA, Over the Moo have this week

analysed which coffee places were the most

launched two new flavours; I FELL FOR CARAMEL: Coconut caramel ice

popular and well reviewed. They compared

cream oozing with ripples of salted caramel sauce and toffee balls, and

businesses from across the country using

GINGER NINJA KARATE CHOC: Coconut chocolate ice cream rammed

a ranking that considered total ratings and

with chunks of gingernut cookie.

number of reviews, while also accounting for quality, popularity, and statistical fluctuations.

Creator Alex Houseman says: “We’re pumped to be adding to our range with flavours that are decadent, indulgent and packed with crunchy and

t’s no surprise that Melbourne holds its

gooey inclusions. Over The Moo is pushing the envelope flavour-wise but

reputation as the Australian city with the

ensuring our products remain totally dairy free, gluten free and vegan.”

highest proportion of coffee snobs. Perennial Melbourne laneway favourite Patricia takes the

The new flavours are now available in 500mL tubs at selected IGA

top spot and 27 Victorian businesses made the

supermarkets in NSW, VIC, ACT and QLD. They are expected to retail at

list overall (the best of any state). The other big

$10.50.

surprise is Western Australia, punching well above its weight with 25 businesses featured in the Top 100.

WWW.OVERTHEMOO.COM.AU

Photo: Tony T

the

truffle

shuffle

During July, we’re making it easy to create your own delicious truffle dishes. Visit Georgie’s Harvest to start your Shuffle.

Photo: Amy T

Yelp's Top 100 Coffees in Australia 1. Patricia, Melbourne, VIC 2. E For Ethel, North Adelaide, SA 3. Social Brew, Pyrmont, NSW 4. Lowdown, Perth, WA 5. Bunker, Milton, QLD 6. The League of Honest Coffee, Melb, VIC 7. Coffee Branch, Adelaide, SA 8. Monk Bodhi Dharma, Balaclava, VIC 9. The Pantry on Egmont, Hawthorn, SA 10. Toastface Grillah, Perth, WA 11. Mister Sunshine’s, Thebarton, SA 12. Brother Baba Budan, Melbourne, VIC 13. Dukes Coffee Roasters, Melbourne, VIC 14. Single Origin Roasters, Surry Hills, NSW 15. Exchange Specialty Coffee, Ade SA 16. Room 10, Potts Point, NSW 17. John Mills Himself, Brisbane, QLD 18. Chu Bakery, Highgate, WA 19. The Kettle Black, South Melbourne, VIC 20. The Old Crow, Perth, WA

Photo: Bob C


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TRUFFLES From The Hunt To The Plate WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR AND LAUREN BRUCE

It goes without saying that truffles are absolutely delicious. The richness and the perfume of this superior ingredient is unique and mysterious – but it can be intimidating for some. Director of Truffle Melbourne, Nigel Wood’s raison d’etre is to make the foodstuff more accessible to the general public. Despite the many foodies that inhabit Victoria, there are few more passionate about truffles than Wood; and when asked why he is so dedicated to them, his answer is simple. “They’re just so beguiling, really,” he says. “There’s just nothing like them.” Although truffle farming has an enduring history in other parts of the world, particularly Europe, it’s a relatively young practice in Australia. The process of truffle farming intrigued Wood from the beginning. After growing up around the food industry in Australia and beyond, it wasn’t long before Wood developed a keen interest in the truffle farming process. “Around 20 years ago I invested in one of the first Australian truffieres (truffle orchards), which was in Tasmania,” Wood says. Wood eventually acquired his own truffle farm, Truffle Paddock, and became Secretary of the Truffle Growers’ Association, a position he held for a number of years. “I just got more and more involved, I guess,” he says. Wood is currently in Melbourne launching this year’s Truffle Melbourne. The festival is based at Melbourne’s Prahran Market, and while it’s a celebration of all things delicious, its main focus is to educate about truffles; namely, how they’re grown, how easy it is to cook with them, and most importantly, how to ensure you get your money’s worth. “People are intimidated by the product and will often go, ‘oh, I don’t want to muck [cooking with truffle] up, it’s so expensive…’ but you know, it’s not that hard!” Wood says. “There are fantastic exotic dishes you can make with it, but actually, simple is often best.” Wood says that although truffle is an expensive ingredient, he has some tips for making a little go a long way. “When you get your truffle home, place it on some raw eggs or risotto rice in a container in the fridge’s crisper drawer,” he says. “Without even cooking with it yet, the truffle’s flavours are already infusing into your food. You’ve got truffle infused scrambled eggs sitting in your fridge!” 11


Wood isn’t alone in his truffle revolution. One of

truffles weren’t being grown here (the imported

comes to growing truffles, as I discovered visiting

his most formidable Truffle Melbourne supporters

truffles he tasted had been sent to him by a friend

McAuley’s farm following the Truffle Melbourne

is chef Guy Grossi, who is passionate about

- in the post!). “By the time they got to me, they

launch. The farm in Red Hill has been in her family

seasonal, sustainable produce; and in particular,

were really in bad condition… but you could still

since 1886. Originally an apple farm, McAuley

truffles. Grossi often uses the funghi in dishes at

smell them and taste them and it was still a really

began growing trees with a view to harvesting

his restaurants Grossi Florentino Grossi describes

exciting experience,” He says. But despite this,

truffles on the land in 2005. “Those first trees

his first experiences of truffle as “elated” – and

he was still blown away by his first taste of the

aren’t yet eleven years old. But I can remember

after he got a taste for the flavour of the product,

unique food.

the first truffles we harvested. We ate one, and we gave one of them to the local winery’s restaurant,

there was no going back. “I was in love at first sight – or taste – with that really pungent flavour

“But now, we have our own truffles growing in

Montalto, in Red Hill. We still have a copy of the

they have; and they’re so versatile as well,” Grossi

Australia, and the quality is exceptional. The

menu that utilised that truffle, printed and framed

says. “When it’s in season, I use it all the time.”

smell of a Victorian grown truffle is absolutely

on our wall.”

amazing.” There’s no questioning why McAuley has so much

While Grossi’s restaurants are at the higher end of Melbourne’s dining establishments, Grossi

Wood says the scent, as well as the appearance,

pride in her ability to produce and maintain a

concurs with Wood that when it comes to truffle,

is important in spotting a good, ripe, fresh truffle.

prolific truffle farm. There is quite a science to

using modest ingredients is often key to showing

“Have a sniff of a few of them, if you can,” Wood

it, and a lot of variables and challenges, when

the product in its best light.

says. “There is a bit of terroir in there, like wine. So

it comes to how the truffles are grown and

what you’re looking for is a really attractive nose,

harvested.

“I think the simplest dishes are the best to show

a nice aroma, a strong black colour with white

off the truffle,” Grossi says. “[At my restaurants]

marbling on the inside, and for the truffle to be

As we carefully pick our way through rows of

we use it on dishes like pasta, risotto… we might

firm and dry.”

trees on the truffiere, McAuley explains to the group a little bit about how the magic happens.

do a nice white pizza with fontina and then add What you can discern from the truffle’s perfume

“The majority of what I grow on the truffiere is

seems to be the most important thing about

the Perigord, or the black truffle, which grows on

“Another dish I really enjoy doing with truffle is

harvesting a truffle, according to Red Hill Truffles

hazelnut and oak trees,” She says.

something I call the Prince and the Pauper, which

owner Jenny McAuley (McAuley also plays a large

is just sautéed potato, a little bit of onion and

part in the Truffle Melbourne Festival). “When

McAuley says oak and hazelnut trees are

some butter. Add pasta, and allow it to emulsify

you’re smelling it, take your time,” she says. “You

used because they form the best symbiotic

with a little bit of stock, and then the shaved

might smell a bit of a seafood scent, or the truffle

relationship with the truffle. “The tree likes the

truffle just lifts it to another level.”

might smell sweet – but anything you smell is

truffle,” she says. “It doesn’t actually care about

quite legitimate. We all smell things differently.”

the truffle itself, but it likes the active fungus and

shaved truffle on top.

what it does to the soil, because it kills competing

Grossi says that his first Australian truffle experience was slightly disappointing, given

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The smell is just the tip of the iceberg when it

weeds around the tree. And the fungus likes the


tree, attaching itself to the roots to soak up the

I’ve found myself in where my partner is a dog,”

way; and that, despite the complexity of the

nutrients and moisture.”

she laughs.

practice, prospective truffle growers shouldn’t be deterred from owning a farm themselves.

McAuley says a good indication that the symbiotic

Dogs, of course, weren’t the first animal to be

relationship between the fungus and the tree is

used in harvesting truffle. For over 100 years in

“I love it. It’s wonderful. It’s absolutely wonderful,”

developing is by the “burnt” appearance of the

Europe, pigs have been used to find the delicious

she says. “I’m not saying growing truffles is without

ground surrounding the base, called the “brulee

funghi – and are commonly known as the animal

stress, but it’s lovely to be growing something like

effect”.

traditionally used in truffle hunting. “You don’t

this. It’s just a matter of research, experience and

have to train them, because they smell the scent

getting a feel for what you’re doing.”

“You can see the fungus is active in the soil

of testosterone on the truffle, and it smells like

because the grass is dead around the tree, and

their mate, so they want to eat it,” McAuley says.

Truffles hold the same fascination and passion for

that’s called brulee,” she says. “Like crème brulee,

“The issue is, they eat the truffle, and I don’t fancy

Wood, which is why he is determined to spread

it has a lovely burnt top – and that’s what tells me

putting my hand down a sow’s mouth to retrieve

the word that they can be enjoyed by anyone

this tree is producing truffle.”

it!”

who puts their mind to it.

Of course, McAuley can’t harvest these truffles

Wood says the sow is still widely thought of as the

“We don’t have a culinary history with local

alone – she needs a little help from a gorgeous

animal used in truffle hunting. “People often think

truffles in Australia until recently, which is why,

furry springer spaniel named Thomas. “This is one

about pigs,” Wood says. “The trouble with pigs is,

with Truffle Melbourne, we want to showcase

of the few agricultural industries that’s entirely

the sow can be 200kg or more… and trying to get

local truffles, how easy they are to cook with, and

dependent on an animal to harvest for you; and

in between a sow and a truffle is not going to be

how a little goes a long way,” he says. “We want

I’m entirely dependent on Thomas to find the

good for anyone!

to get people familiar with them.

truffle,” she says. “There are old European paintings of some of

“To me, they are a lens for other flavours; they’re

McAuley says people can get snobby about dogs

the early truffle hunters using pigs, and there are

a magnifier of other complimentary ingredients.

and that lots of people favour certain animals; but

noticeably missing fingers!”

And you know, I just love opening that fridge door and having that perfume wafting out! That’s why

after an unsuccessful experience trying to train a despite

all

the

challenges

associated

this is my favourite time of year.”

favoured breed, she found Thomas, a rescue dog

But

that had been trained by a former military dog

with growing truffle, there’s no disputing the

trainer.

mysterious appeal of the fungus for both

But don’t take our word for it; try a truffle recipe

producers and consumers alike.

for yourself! This is a lovely simple pasta dish Guy Grossi cooked for us when we visited him at

“Thomas and I just bonded,” McAuley says. “He owns me, not the other way around! But we work

McAuley says after moving from social work to

really well together. So it’s a funny sort of business

truffle farming, she wouldn’t have it any other

Grossi Florentino. (see over page)

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Guy Grossi’s Taglierini with Pine Mushroom TIP: Don’t wash the mushrooms before you cook them. Use a fine-bristled

TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH

brush such as an egg wash brush to brush off any soil etc that might be on them instead, because you don’t want to ruin their structure with water.

Ingredients: 150ml extra virgin olive oil

Serves 6

15g garlic, crushed

FOR THE PASTA

750g pine mushrooms, sliced

Ingredients:

120g unsalted butter

28 egg yolks

30g flat leaf parsley, chopped

500g. Pangkarra wholegrain durum flour from Clare Valley

90g Reggiano Parmigiano, grated Salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

Method:

30g Australian black truffle

1. Place all the ingredients into a mixing bowl with the dough hook attachment and mix on slow speed until smooth dough has formed. Wrap

Method:

and refrigerate for two hours, allowing the dough to rest before using.

1. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil.

2. Cut the pasta dough in half and roll through the pasta roller on the widest

2. Heat a pan on moderate heat with the olive oil and cook the garlic for a

opening. Fold and roll through again and repeat this until the dough is silky

few seconds to infuse the oil mix in the mushrooms, and mix continuously

smooth in texture, then roll through the pasta roller through the settings

for a minute. Add the butter and parsley season with salt and pepper.

until 2mm in thickness. Cut the pasta sheet into 20cm pieces. 3. Drop the pasta in the boiling water and mix gently to separate strands. 3. Roll through the taglierini cutter or if you haven’t got a cutter, flour the

Cook al dente for two minutes; strain and add to pasta with the Parmesan

sheets thoroughly and stack together, then cut with a sharp knife into 5mm

to the pan. Mix vigorously to emulsify, adding a little of the pasta water to

wide pasta strips.

the pan, and plate.

4. Roll into 100g portions.

4. Shave Australian truffle over the top and serve immediately.

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How Good! On Friday August 5th participating cafes will be donating $1 from every coffee sold to support people who are homeless. All proceeds go to the great work done by StreetSmart! Don’t forget to pop in to your nearest participating cafe on the 5th, buy yourself a coffee and leave a matching $1 donation. See you then! :) Find a participating cafe streetsmartaustralia.org Like/Share/Follow @StreetSmartAust #CafeSmart

05 AUGUST 16 2016 Partners:


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EAST BAR AND RESTAURANT WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY GASTROLOGY

Walking into the restaurant located at Sheraton Melbourne Hotel on Little

The Shanghainese Lamb was beautifully tender and full of flavour while

Collins Street guests are greeted with a calming Jade interior that creates

the dish of Fragrant & Crispy Duck with Steamed Bun had us fighting for

a sense of ease. Once seated and ready to peruse the menu the array of

the last morsel. The fluffy and moist buns were a lovely canvas for the

dishes that are designed to share leaves you instantly picking favourites to

velvety duck flesh and its perfectly crisp skin.

suggest to your dining companion. For dessert, EAST’s take on the traditional fried ice cream was delicious. The menu features a delicious array of options courtesy of recently

The ice cream was coated in a crisp coconut and bread crumb coating that

appointed head chef Gang Qian, known as Ben, who has previously worked

was ethereally light. It was a pleasant end to our meal.

at the Radisson Blu Plaza Xingguo Hotel in Shanghai - a restaurant that only serves two tables per day, in which usually sit presidents, government

To match, the beverage menu at EAST is a well curated list. There is a

officials, and royalty on various occasions.

diverse selection of cocktails that are refreshingly inventive. Think the Red Ginger made with white rum, lime juice, sugar syrup, fresh strawberry,

We loved eating our way through the menu.

mint leaves that are pummeled together and topped with ginger ale or for something creamier the Peanut Butter Mudslide made with vodka, baileys,

To start, a selection of signature HuTong group dim sums are a must-have.

Kahlua and peanut butter that are shaken together and twirled with cream.

While many Chinese restaurants serve dumplings, EAST’s variety are a cut

There are a number of beers on the menu, both Australian and imported,

above. Their Xiao Long Bao in particular impressed. The allure of these

and a diverse wine list.

dumplings lie in their gracefully delicate pastry skin enveloping rich porkseasoned broth.

If you are after something more traditional EAST also serve premium Chinese tea with flavours including the delicate and slightly floral

Usefully, EAST’s staff are on hand to provide instructions on the

Chrysanthemum tea, Tai Hu Green Bamboo tea which is perfect to assist in

recommended steps for consuming the Xiao Long Bao - steps which

energising you post meal, and the Rose Flower tea that is a great choice if

involve piercing the pastry skin to suck out the broth within and then

you are wanting to warn off the upcoming flu season as it assists in helping

subsequently flavouring the remaining pastry and minced pork dumpling

the body fight colds.

with black vinegar and shredded ginger. These soupy morsels may demand more effort than your run-of-the-mill pork dumpling, but we assure you

Incredibly versatile and exceedingly delicious, EAST is perfect for a business

will be rewarded.

luncheon, after work Chinese tapas with work friends or a weekend dinner with loved ones.

An absolute show stopper was the premium steamed black truffle juicy pork dumplings. The steamed pork dumplings were infused with shaved

EAST BAR AND RESTAURANT

truffle and truffle oil and tasted nothing short of amazing. It was a decadent

25 Little Collins Street, Melbourne

dumpling with fragrant aromas.

PH: (03) 9650 8838 eastrestaurant.com.au

For mains the Slow Cooked Shanghainese Lamb with Sweet Soy Sauce

FACEBOOK: eastbarandrestaurant

and Tea Smoked Duck were lovely.

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HELLENIC HOTEL WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN

Foodies have another reason to flock to the seaside suburb of Williamstown

buzzy tavern downstairs, or enjoying a cocktail and some pub fare in the

with the much-anticipated opening of George Calombaris’ and Travis

public bar upstairs. There’s also a spacious verandah with spectacular

McAuley’s Hellenic Hotel.

views of the seaside and city skyline. Bring on summer in Williamstown!

I was lucky enough to attend the soft launch earlier in the month to get a

Crafted by head chef Josh Pelham (ex Estelle), the menu showcases

sneak peek of the restaurant and, of course, sample the menu.

modern Greek dining, which Calombaris likes to call “Gastro Greek” – a Hellenic touch on great Ausssie pub food. Diners can expect to feast

Converted from one of the west’s most iconic pub buildings, the Hobsons

on freshly shucked oysters, local seafood and all the Greek classics like

Bay Hotel, the Hellenic Hotel opening has breathed new life into the

souvlakis, lamb and rotisserie chicken served piping hot from the open

heritage building. The façade still remains largely the same, but venture

kitchen. The drinks menu features a great range of local and Hellenic wines

inside and you’ll be in for a treat.

and of course the traditional Greek aperitif- ouzo if you’re feeling game!

It’s an incredibly handsome venue, with lofty ceilings and a distinct

The feed me menu at $49 per person (seven courses), is a great option for

nautical feel. It plays on a kaleidoscope of ocean blues and, like all of

the indecisive and/or hungry! And at the end of a chilly Melbourne day, this

Calombaris’ restaurants, pays homage to its Greek heritage by using the

was the perfect option…

Greek Matiasma “the evil eye” on its plates. There’s plenty of exposed brick and piping which gives it a contemporary feel, warmed up by the use of

We started with a bowl of warm Mount Zero Olives marinated in garlic,

greenery throughout the venue. Patrons have the option of dining in the

thyme and olive oil paired with freshly baked pita and taromosalata (white

18


cod roe dip). This was so good we had to request more pita to mop up

topped with rhubarb and candied pistachios. Next time I have my sight

every last bit.

set on the pavlova which looked large enough to serve a small army, and the passionfruit loukoumades. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it.

This was followed by a sizzling plate of saganaki, finished with apple, clove and black sesame which gave the dish a delicate spicy flavour and

Hellenic Hotel makes a welcome addition to Williamstown and will no

a touch of sweetness. With a gorgeous golden gleam on top, the fried

doubt develop a loyal following from locals and tourists alike. It may be

cheese literally oozed from the middle upon cutting.

two years overdue, but it was certainly worth the wait.

A comforting bowl of kritharaki was infused with squid ink to give it a

HELLENIC HOTEL WILLIAMSTOWN

jet black colour and finished with a sprinkling of mussels and fennel. This

A 28 Ferguson Street, Williamstown, Vic 3016

was definitely one of the highlights of the evening.

T (03) 9393 1000 hellenicrepublic.com.au

Straight from the rotisserie, the chicken was succulent and tender, with a crispy golden skin. The side dishes included a heirloom carrot salad with fenugreek and roasted almonds and my personal favourite – beetroot paired with sumac and a dusting of pistachios. We finished on a sweet note with a risagolo (a rice pudding of sorts)

19


THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

FROM INDIAN CURRIES TO THE PERFECT BURGER The Neff Market Kitchen at the South Melbourne Market

hosts

up-close

and

personal

cooking

experiences with some of Melbourne’s favourite chefs. From

their

Visit

India:

Curries

and

Kebabs

Market2Table class with Hansika Menon on August 6, to the Street Eats: The Perfect Burger Master Class with Paul Tyas, head chef at The Grosvenor Hotel on August 31, there will be a class to suit everyone’s appetite. With classes limited to 12 people, the Neff Market Kitchen is an intimate venue where you not only learn amazing culinary skills, you also get to enjoy the delicious meals at the end over a glass of wine. For more information about the Neff Market Kitchen cooking classes visit SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET. COM.AU/COOKING-SCHOOL

LITTLE BRIXTON SAUCES AND MARINADES The Little Brixton story started in Jamaica, developed in England, and has finally come to life in Australia. Founded by Richard Johnson and his Aussie partner Sechelle, he was surrounded by British culture, and raised in Brixton, in a Jamaican home that was bursting with music, good food and generous hospitality. With a traditional Jamaican jerk marinade as well as a couple of sauces – Rum and BBQ Sauce and the award winning Jerk Mustard Sauce, Little Brixton brings a little bit of Brixton to Melbourne with all natural quality ingredients, no shortcuts and lots of love. Order online at LITTLEBRIXTON.COM or check our stockists page on the website.

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THINGS WE LOVE FOUR PILLARS BLOODY SHIRAZ Bloody Shiraz Gin is the latest release from the distillers at Four Pillars Gin in Healesville. They’ve taken shiraz grapes, steeped the fruit in the gin for eight weeks, then squeezed the berries into even more Rare Dry Gin to create Bloody Shiraz Gin. The spirit has a gorgeous purple colour which turns bright pink when mixed, with hints of raspberry, juniper and spice. Launched on World Gin Day on June 11, there is limited supply which is available on the website www. fourpillarsgin.com.au or at the Four Pillars Distillery, 2A Lilydale Road, Healesville VIC 3777. Enquiries - jen@fourpillarsgin.com.au FOURPILLARSGIN.COM.AU

IN2TEA In2tea was born from a love of tea and adventure - while travelling overseas

The tea lasts up to 12 hours once dissolved and comes in convenient

Melbourne sisters Hannah and Kate discovered a tea extract that could

individual sachets, making it perfect to add to your water bottle, take to

dissolve instantly into hot or cold water. Amazed by the delicious taste

work or blend with your juices and smoothies.

and stunningly simple design, they were compelled to bring this unique tea to Australia.

Currently available online at WWW.IN2TEA.COM.AU with complimentary shipping Australia wide.

A few more adventures later In2tea was born - using only USDA certified organic tea and 100% natural ingredients, In2tea’s tea extracts are created

INSTAGRAM.COM/IN2TEA_AUSTRALIA

using nano-extraction technology and a low-heat evaporation over 72 hours, resulting in naturally high antioxidant levels and a clean tea flavour.

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WHY MELBOURNE LOVES REGIONAL VICTORIAN PRODUCE WORDS MEG OSBORNE

The terms ‘paddock to plate’ and ‘farm to table’ have surpassed being

their hydroponically grown basil was a huge hit, leading them to expand

trendy, to the point of being overused, but it says something about the

not only in size, but into the micro green market, too.

feeling in the market that adding those labels (authentic or not), purvey value to a consumer.

So what are micro greens? A lot of emphasis is put on the way a meal looks now, especially in some of Melbourne’s most popular dining spots. While

The theory behind the words is basically one of; love local, and popularity

this doesn’t always speak for the flavour of the dish, in regards to micro

aside, it’s a valid stance to take. The benefits of choosing local produce are

greens, it sure does! If you get served up a plate of almost-too-pretty-to-

many, from supporting your nearby, independent growers, to embracing

eat food, you may notice small leaves and perhaps edible flowers sitting on

(and understanding) seasonal produce, to simply enjoying fresher—and

top. The great thing about these little add-ons, Susie Young tells us, is that

therefore tastier—food on your plate.

they don’t lack in the flavour department. ‘I think that’s why micro greens have gotten so popular and they’ve stayed popular,’ she says; ‘because

While it is such a drawcard, and a definite promo-worthy phrase, you’d

you’re not missing out on anything. They’ve even got all the same vitamins

actually be hard pressed to not find regional Victorian produce amongst

and minerals of the larger plants.’ In fact, some of the herbs and greens in

some of Melbourne’s best restaurants and cafes. From edible flowers

their micro format actually provide a stronger flavour, Young tells us, such

and micro greens, to free-range livestock, to absolutely delicious dairy,

as; ‘rocket and radishes, which can get a bit more peppery as they get

we looked into why Melbourne is lucky enough to have some of the best

older.’

produce around. B&B Basil grow their plants in hydroponic sheds, which are undercover Susie Young and George Bobin are a father daughter team that run B&B

and protected. This means no pests, and no spraying. ‘It’s a very controlled

Basil, a micro green specialist based out of Bendigo. Starting out in 2000,

environment’, Young tells us, from the water, to the temperature, to the

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PHOTO: AMANDA MALONE

organic soil that’s placed in the pot. About 80% of the B&B Basil business

McIvor Farms in Tooborac, Victoria, are proud to farm old breed Berkshire

goes through distributors to eateries in Melbourne, with a production

pigs, with a holistic farming outlook they tout as ‘beyond free-range’. The

quantity of around 30,000 units a week! The popularity of the micro green

system is devised around utilising the pigs’ natural behavioural tendencies

market—and Melbourne restaurants’ desire to stay local—has enabled the

to roam dig, and disturb the soil, with the result being regenerating the

business to grow and expand over time, and also discover new ways to

land. Husband and wife duo Jason and Belinda Hagan inherited the farm

innovate. ‘We’ll keep dabbling on growing things in the dark and looking

from Jason’s family (three generations in Tooborac), along with a passion

at different grow lights, as the innovation changes out in the market’ says

for pigs and sustainable, environmentally friendly farming.

Young, as well as focussing on different sources of heating and solar options. Belinda Hagan tells us that maintaining the beyond free-range philosophy; What B&B Basil offer will also be expanding, with the team looking into

‘can be a challenge when seasons are difficult’, but that the priority is around

a more mature leaf and devising specialty salad blends. Young tells us,

farming the soil, and managing the animals as best they can. Essentially

‘flowers are in such high demand, everybody is loving edible flowers at

the view is this; if the soil is respected through farming, Hagan tells us

the moment.’ But there are also a few very unique flavours that seem to

‘it’s not about taking the most out of it. It’s actually putting back into it.’

be increasing in popularity; lemon balm and red shiso. Part of what makes

This means that healthy plants will grow, followed by healthy animals, ergo

the business so successful, is sussing out the movement in the market

healthy food. The process of rejuvenating the soil is a slow and careful one

according to Young, who’s next step is to; ‘Get out into the marketplace

that they manage through the pigs’ natural behaviour. Hagan tells us that

and talk to more chefs, finding out what’s next, what could they possibly

on McIvor Farms, priorities have developed into bolder statements; ‘[What]

want us to grow.’

Began about the animals and giving them a better life, and having a system that was very high in ethics and welfare, has become so much more than

In the case of B&B Basil, they’ve found an area in which they can develop

that now.’ The Hagan’s biggest passion is bringing life back to the land and

a superior product, and become experts in it. The success shows through

building an ecosystem from the ground up—literally. ‘Both Jason and I are

the massive reception Melbourne restaurants and cafes have shown the

fortunate to do what we love,’ Hagan tells us. ‘We are not saying it’s easy…

micro green product, and it’s ongoing. A trend we’ve found consistent

it’s actually bloody hard work! But McIvor Farm and us can only do what we

amongst regional producers, is often they specialise, and their products

do with the support of customers.’

hold a unique point of difference that makes them so attractive to the city dining destinations.

McIvor Farms are big believers in local produce on local plates, which is why 100% of their perfect pork ends up in Victoria. It can be found across

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Melbourne and the central Victoria region at markets, butchers, providores

in their own way, producing stunning savoury and sweet ice creams and

and even restaurants, with the likes of Grossi Florentino and Ombra Salumi

dessert with Yarra Valley Dairy curds.

Bar putting the paddock to plate statement into practice. Popular dishes are pork belly, Belinda Hagan tells us, but they’re also seeing a rise in pork

If you take the short trip north of Melbourne, you’ll be met with an unassuming

cheek, advising us to check out Masons’ in Bendigo. ‘[They] do this amazing

tin shed, that modestly hides a stunning interior and breathtaking views.

‘crackle pin-wheel’’, she says, stating that she loves seeing the full circle,

Boasting a cellar door featuring twenty independent wine makers in the

resulting in ‘great produce, from great chefs’.

area, it’s not all about the cheese at Yarra Valley Dairy (but it is, mostly about the cheese, and we’re more than fine with that, too.)

Great produce on Melbourne plates is becoming more accessible by the minute, and Yarra Valley Dairy is a name you’re probably familiar with living

Yarra Valley Dairy have become so popular in Melbourne, you can

in Melbourne. Not only is it a well known brand and locally celebrated, but

purchase their craftfully creamy products at delis, grocers and even some

it’s also an easy drive out of Melbourne into the Yarra Valley—a must stop

supermarkets around town. The brand is thriving, stocking internationally

on your next winery trip! Yarra Valley Dairy uses fresh cow’s milk from

in the United States, and makes a cheesy appearance on Emirates and

nearby dairy farms, and goat’s milk from Gippsland to create their artisan

Qantas domestic and international flights. Although Melbourne and greater

cheeses. ‘Winemaking and cheesemaking have a real similarity, because

Victoria still embrace it as one of their favourites, with some of Melbourne’s

it’s about the terroir, about the land, about what the cows are eating and

best restaurants such as The Press Club approaching them to make some

how well they’re looked after,’ Yarra Valley Dairy Brand Manager Catherine

unique cheesy delights. Again, the lure of local is well-loved in Melbourne.

McCarthy tells us.

‘The value of people eating locally is kind of a no brainer really,’ says McCarthy, and we couldn’t agree more!

McCarthy informs us that the produce used to create the cheese is important, but a lot of credit goes to the cheesemaker. ‘It’s one thing to make the

If this article has left you feeling hungry, you could always cook up a

cheese, but it’s actually in what you do with it and how you treat it and how

decadent McIvor pork cheek, sprinkle some stunning B&B Basil micro

you mature it that will really contribute to it’s flavour profile.’ She says. Head

greens on top, and serve with a creamy Yarra Valley Dairy goat’s cheese

Cheesemaker Jack Holman is a forager from way back, experimenting with

salad. Just a thought. #Paddocktoplate

Australian ‘bush native’ flavours, such as eucalyptus and wattle during the cheesemaking process, as well as collaborating with nearby Four Pillars Distillery to create a botanical flavoured rind. Restaurants are innovating

25


BU SIE ITIK

Slow-braised duck curry with pandan, cinnamon and coconut milk RECIPE BY HUJAN LOCALE INGREDIENTS

METHOD

Serves 2 ITIK DUCK CURRY PASTE

ITIK DUCK CURRY PASTE

Slowly simmer for 1.5 hours until duck is soft and

Blend all ingredients into fine paste. Set aside.

tender. Ensure the duck stays submerged in the liquid at all times.

4 shallots 12 cloves garlic

SPICE MIX

80 dried long red chillies

Grind all ingredients into powder.

Once the duck is cooked, remove from the liquid onto a resting rack.

10 cinnamon sticks 10 knobs turmeric, peeled

DUCK CURRY

50 candlenuts

Marinate the duck by rubbing the spice mix into

Reduce the braising liquid until thick, like a

2 teaspoons white pepper

the meat. Leave for at least an hour.

rendang. Adjust the sauce to your liking with more of the spices, salt and pepper.

2 teaspoons black pepper Spice Mix

Heat oil in a large pot. Add salam leaves, bruised

3 teaspoons cumin seeds

lemongrass, cardamom, curry leaves and pandan

Once the sauce is ready, cut your duck into

3 teaspoons coriander seeds

leaves and cook until the spices are aromatic.

smaller serving-size pieces. Add back into the

Add in the curry paste and cook until fragrant.

curry sauce and reheat.

1 braised duck

Add in the spiced duck, ensuring the paste is

TO SERVE

½ cup vegetable oil

covering the duck. Pour over the coconut milk

Garnish with fried curry leaves, fried curly chilli

3 salam leaves

and bring to the boil.

and coriander.

DUCK CURRY

1 stalk lemongrass, bruised 3 pieces white cardamom 1g curry leaves 1 pandan leaf, tied 2 cups sie itik curry paste Salt, to taste

RECIPES FROM FLAVOURS OF BALI

35g coconut milk The latest publication from Melbourne based Smudge TO SERVE

Publishing in the award-winning Flavours Of series,

Fried curry leaves

Flavours of Bali.

Fried red curly chillies A sprig coriander leaves

The beautifully presented book showcases the diverse dining scene in Bali, from fine dining at remarkable restaurants to sunset cocktails at beachside bars. With stunning visuals, signature recipes and profiles of the island’s top chefs, Flavours of Bali offers a comprehensive guide to all the Bali dining scene has to offer. Flavours of Bali $80 – Available at all good bookshops and online: smudgeeats.com.au/product/flavours-of-bali/

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TANDOORI SQUID

Stuffed with Paneer Cheese and Cashew Nut Cauliflower

RECIPE BY SARONG METHOD

INGREDIENTS Serves 5 RAITA YOGHURT

MINT CHUTNEY

RAITA YOGHURT

2 tablespoons diced onion

5 green birds eye chillies

Combine diced onion, tomato and cucumber with the

2 tablespoons diced tomato

1 large bunch coriander, leaves only

yoghurt. Season with the salt, garam masala and chat masala

2 tablespoons diced cucumber

1 large bunch mint, leaves only

to taste. Transfer to the fridge until ready to use.

1 cup plain yoghurt

30ml rice vinegar

1 pinch salt

2 cups plain yoghurt

VEGETABLE FILLING

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 tablespoons garam masala

Prepare your vegetable filling by grating boiled cauliflower

1 teaspoon chat masala

2 tablespoons chat masala

and potato. Crumble together, then mix together with paneer. The mixture should still have texture.

VEGETABLE FILLING

GARNISH

1 piece cauliflower, boiled

2 pieces radicchio lettuce

Heat oil in a pan, sauté ajwan seed, garlic and green chillies.

3 pieces medium potatoes, boiled and peeled

2 pieces cucumber sticks

Add the crumbled vegetable mix and the rest of the

2 cups paneer – bought from your local Indian

2 sprigs coriander leaves

ingredients. Check the seasoning.

supplier or use ricotta

3 slices red onion rings

Oil, to sauté

2 lime cheeks

TANDOORI SQUID

2 tablespoons ajwan seeds

Fill ½ cup of vegetable mixture into each squid and add

4 tablespoons garlic, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons of cheddar cheese. Cook in the tandoori oven

10 long green chillies, chopped

for 7 minutes or bake in your oven for 30 minutes.

1 tablespoon chat masala 1 tablespoon chilli powder

MINT CHUTNEY

1 tablespoon turmeric powder

Combine chillies, coriander and mint leaves and pulse in the

1 cup cashew nut, chopped

blender for a minute. Add in the rice vinegar and mix with the

1 handful coriander leaves, chopped

yoghurt. Season with garam masala and chat masala. This is

½ tablespoon salt

best used immediately.

TANDOORI SQUID

TO SERVE

2 pieces squids, cleaned and washed

Serve squid on a plate with raita yoghurt and mint chutney on

2 tablespoons cheddar cheese

the side. Garnish with radicchio, cucumber sticks, coriander, onion and lime.

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REVIEWS FOUR RASCALS COFFEE - RAPSCALLION BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG When you put four mates together anything is bound

were the reasons Michael Pelosi decided to use it at

to happen, usually involving lots of alcohol and mass

his new cafe The Faculty in Hawthorn. With a passion

destruction. However if they all join forces in the

for customer service and prior hospitality experience,

name of good instead of evil and drink coffee instead,

he has wanted to have his own cafe since the age of 16

imagine what amazing things can be created. This

with the aim of looking after patrons with quality food

is the story of Four Rascals, also known as Richard,

and coffee. In a well established suburb and an area

Goran, Simon and Mei. The little blurb on their website

dominated by private schools, when people move

says it so well that I had no other option but to

here they usually stay and want to go somewhere they

duplicate it word for word - “They figured they could

are treated well and their faces are remembered. A bit

break the whole coffee roasting thing down to three

of a rogue himself, Michael’s choice of Four Rascals

easy-to-follow steps: 1. Don’t blow up the roaster 2.

was the perfect choice and the result is a consistent

Don’t strangle each other 3. Make awesome coffee.”

brew that pleases the locals who keep coming back.

And that’s exactly what they did. TO HAVE YOUR OWN CHEEKY RAPSCALLION The most popular of their blends is called Rapscallion,

EXPERIENCE, HERE ARE FOUR RASCALLY CAFES

a predominantly Arabica blend of seven origins

SERVING IT UP WITH A SMILE

including India, Brazil, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Mexico, Honduras and Ethiopia, producing a strong brew that’s a little sweet, a little feisty, with loads of character, just as a cheeky rascal should be. Easy to tune and working really well with both black and milk based coffees

The Faculty - 302 Barkers Rd, Hawthorn The Ambrosiary - 70 Portman St Oakleigh Happymaree - 229 Somerville Rd, Yarraville Fugazza - 5 Equitable Pl, CBD

fourrascals.com.au info@fourrascals.com.au

SOUTHERN BAY VANILLA OATMEAL STOUT - VANILLA NICE NICE BABY WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY TREV BIRKS - ON THE BANDWAGON Ok, I think that’s about the worst pun yet. Never fear,

success we experienced with the Vanilla Oatmeal

we’re only halfway through the year I’m sure I can

Stout last year was amazing and it really put us in the

come up with worse.

spotlight as a brewery in our own right. We just had to do it again, but the only change is a slight adjustment

Southern Bay Brewing, based in Moolap just outside

down to the amount of Vanilla to allow the other

of Geelong is well known in the industry as a

characteristics to shine as well”.

dependable contract brewer. But while the gang have contributed much to the craft beer scene by making

While I enjoy a measured vanilla hit in a dark brew, I

other people’s beers, in recent times the pendulum

believe the decision to temper it second time around

has swung back to a more even keel.

was a great move. Let’s face it, if you use 8 different specialty malts to deliver what is a delightful smooth

In 2011, the brewery was a split of about 80% contract

experience of chocolate and coffee, it would be a

and 20% their own range. Now however, it’s around

shame to overpower it. I loved this beer and highly

50-50 which has given Head Brewer Phil Rutjens and

recommend you give it a try! You can get Southern

his team much needed confidence to experiment and

Bay Vanilla Oatmeal Stout at all most beer venues and

show off their skills. Thanks to a 50 litre pilot system

bottle shops around Victoria. Catch the Southern Bay

they can try something outside the box while not

guys and 27 other breweries at Bendigo On The Hop

worrying about a huge bill if it’s not quite right. Which

on Saturday 20 August which will be showcasing over

brings me to the latest limited release, their 2016

50 different beers in what should be a great day out!

version of the Vanilla Oatmeal Stout. After widespread acclaim from beer drinkers in 2015, there was no hesitation to bring it back. I asked Southern Bay’s Sales Manager Paul Lucas if they were brave enough to tinker with a winning recipe. “The

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ABV: 6.5% STYLE: Sweet Stout SERVING TEMP: 6-8 degrees FOOD PAIRING: Braised beef cheek or vanilla custard tart ORIGIN: Geelong, Victoria PRICE (RRP): $9-12 500ml bottle BUY IT HERE: www.southernbay.com.au


SHADOWFAX MONDEUSE 2015 Werribee South, Victoria - RRP $28 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO Once upon a time I worked at the architecturally

I think this may be the only 100% Mondeuse made

brilliant Shadowfax Winery in Werribee South. It

in Australia. I purchased it late last year and I’m not

was located three minutes from where I grew up

sure why I resisted from opening it until now. From

so was the ideal location to boost my knowledge

what I have been told, it sold out from the winery in

of viticulture and winemaking whilst studying both

48 hours to bars, restaurants and retailers and now

subjects. The vineyard at the property hosted red

the wait is on for the new release.

grape varieties like Shiraz with some Pinot Noir. Truth be told, the Pinot often did not ripen so well so

Why such a buzz? It’s not just the label featuring

was used in the rose’ blend. That all changed with a

Biggie Smalls (The Notorious B.I.G) or that Mondeuse

bold decision by the winemaker, Matt Harrop, and his

is just something new for the Australian palate. This

team to pull out some of the underperforming vines

is an excellent wine filled with plenty of character.

and plant something new. Their idea was to plant

Not overloaded with sugar, think instead savoury

varieties that should be more at home in the area.

and spice and all things nice. As a more savoury-

The obscure eastern region of Savoie in France was

driven style of red, Mondeuse ticks all the boxes with

their inspiration with varieties like Grenache, Mataro,

earthy fruit (think wild berry fruits on a forest floor),

Cinsault and Mondeuse. If people didn’t think Harrop

supple acidity, smoky nuances and a good amount

was crazy before, they sure did now. The wait was

of tannin. It’s more medium-bodied than full, so

then on to see how they would perform.

suited the veal scallopine alla Marsala dish that was prepared wonderfully. STOCKISTS: 2016 released in early Spring and be quick, check out Blackhearts & Sparrows wine stores at their various locations from September.

BAR/D UP Video Feature Panama Dining Room & Bar // Fitzroy In collaboration with The Melbourne Gin Company Panama, a transcontinental country in Central

European inspired menu

America, an international hub, a melting pot of

also traverses countries

people and cultures from around the world. A

in a way that is uniquely

combination of Latin, American and European

Australian.

influences, it’s modern yet still steeped in

the $1 oyster happy hour every night from 6pm

history. Take these elements, put them into a

- 7pm, perfect with a glass of bubbles.

Don’t

forget

bar in Fitzroy, one of Melbourne’s more diverse suburbs and you have The Panama Dining

A loft conversion with exposed brick walls,

Room.

Panama like the country it’s named after embraces the past but isn’t scared to be

High above Smith Street, overlooking the

innovative. It’s a fusion of all things good

treetops and the old buildings, this highly

without being pretentious in any way. It’s a multi

regarded venue blends 70’s class with a touch

purpose space where you can start the night

of grunge to give patrons a relaxed experience

in one area then move around and continue

without compromising on quality drinks and

to party without having to leave, especially on

food. It’s a restaurant, a bar, a place you can have

Fridays and Saturdays from 10pm when the DJ

a game of pool and if you want you can even

starts his first set. With friendly, knowledgeable

have your wedding here. Specialising in single

staff to look after you from beginning to end, a

vineyard wines, cocktails made with craft spirits

trip to Panama is just what the doctor ordered.

and great local and international brews, the PANAMA DINING ROOM & BAR

9417 7663

2/231 SMITH STREET, FITZROY 3065 thepanama.com.au

31


OUT AND ABOUT WORLD GIN DAY PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

32

Three years on and World Gin Day is still the highlight of the drinking calendar at Melbourne’s Gin Palace. This year there was a West Winds lunch hosted by Jason Chan, a Four Pillars high tea with Samuel Ng, not to mention cheeky martini massages with the Plymouth Gin team,

a bathtub full of Hendricks punch and 2 for 1 drinks all afternoon featuring these gins together with an awesome one from Rogue Society in New Zealand.


THE DIARY 21 July 2016

BOATROCKER BEER ACADEMY - CRAFT BEER DINNER Academy Kitchen & Bar, 318 Bridge Road, Richmond

Boatrocker Brewery has teamed up with Academy Kitchen & Bar to bring you a relaxed and social craft beer evening and an opportunity to experience the ever-growing trend of pairing food with beer. Adam Holliday of Boatrocker Brewing is co-hosting this exciting craft beer event with Academy head chef and owner, Will Manning. Adam will present information throughout the evening on food and beer matching, as well as provide an insight into the much-loved local Boatrocker Brewery and the beer making process. Accomplished chef, Will Manning has designed a 4 course tasting menu showcasing Academy’s new winter menu. The dishes include hearty winter warmers, such as pork belly and beef cheek. As always, Academy delivers a perfectly balanced, upmarket home-cooking feel. Bookings now open via bookings@academykitchenandbar.com.au or 9427 8231.

10 August, 2016

P.J.O’BRIEN’S WINTER WHISKEY TASTING Hill Showgrounds, 180 Arthurs Seat Road, Red Hill South

Cost: $80 per person for four courses and matching beers

On Wednesday August 10 PJ O’Brien’s will take whiskey lovers on a tour around the different regions of Scotland to explore the variety and distinction that each region has to offer on the whiskey front. Complete with a matched three course dinner and hosted by an expert brand ambassador we will dive into some of the most renowned whiskeys such as Macallan, Highland Park, Bowmore, Auchentoshan, Ardmore and even venturing to the west coast of Ireland to see what Connemara has to offer. Throughout the night we will explore every corner of Scotland from the Lowlandsand Islay, to the Highlands and Islands, and discover what makes each region unique. Bookings essentail. Contact Cian O’Brien: 9686 5011 or email cian@pjobriens.com.au

5 August, 2016

BOOZY BOTANICALS Jardin Tan, Melbourne Gardens, Birdwood Avenue

All through July

THE TRUFFLE SHUFFLE

Commencing with tasting Maidenii’s cocktails at Jardin Tan, learn about the process of turning grains into alcohol and some history about vermouth! Then enjoy a walk and talk through the Gardens led by Tim Entwisle, botanical extraordinaire, and Shaun Byrne, self-professed bar-geek of Maidenii.

All through July

During the walk, you will get up close and personal to the plants and botanicals used in popular drinks. Your senses will be enlivened and you will learn more about the fascinating plants used in popular drinks. You may even learn a tip or two about growing these botanical ingredients at home!

Using expertly sourced, seasonal produce, Circa Head Chef, Rhys Blackley has crafted a weekly menu to please any palate. Pair that with a perfectly matched glass of wine ... winter’s not looking so bad after all.

Bookings required $45 per person $40.50 Friends’ members

Sunday, 19th June

T 03 9252 2429 for more information.

Kinkawooka mussels w. guanciale + friggitelli peppers Cobia sashimi w. ponzu + purple daikon Smoked quail w. butternut + spiced pepitas Mains

South Melbourne Market

During July, we’re making it easy to create your own delicious truffle dinner party!

Circa, The Prince

Every Sunday through winter, indulge in a winterinspired luncheon from award winning Circa kitchen.

ON THE MENU

Entrees

Wood grilled Seven’s Creek wagyu Brisket served w.local wild mushrooms + organic Japanese spinach Sunday, 26th June

From Saturday 2 July you can: 1. Visit Georgie’s Harvest on the Coventry Street side of the Market and let them know you’re there for the Truffle Shuffle

Entrees

2. Choose the dishes you want to cook from our recipe cards – a full dinner party or just one truffle dish

Victorian pigeon w. almonds + cured egg yolk BBQ king prawns w. fennel, pernod + orangen Local wild mushrooms w. biodynamic farro Mains

3. Do the Truffle Shuffle through the Market to pick up all the ingredients – traders are listed on the recipe cards 4. Head home and follow the simple recipes

23 July, 2016

5. Enjoy a delicious truffle inspired dinner

Helen’s Hill Estate, 16 Ingram Road, Lilydale

Alternatively you can download South Melbourne Market’s delicious truffle recipes from southmelbournemarket.com.au

Hled at Helen’s Hill Estate in Lilydale, Boots in the Barrel Hall is a Chardonnay Master Class which explores the winemakers grape and the many styles in which it is made. The event features Chardonnay from all around Australia and presented by the entertaining Allan Nalder, Owner of Helen’s Hill Estate. Bookings are essential. Please call Helen’s Hill Estate for for information.

Georgie’s Havest source their Australian truffles from the following regions: Forrest Truffles – Otways, Victoria Tamar Valley Truffles – Tasmania Manjimup Western Australia

WINTER GRAZE

BOOTS IN THE BARREL HALL

Slow roasted Flinder’s Island lamb shoulder served w. Jerusalem artichokes + wild nettle What: Sunday Winter Graze $55 | 2 courses $65 | 3 courses When: Every Sunday through winter Where: Circa, The Prince Want: Call (03) 9562 1122 or email dining@circa.com.au

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