GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 63 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
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CONTENTS EATING OUT EAST RESTAURANT AND BAR Gastrology HELLENIC HOTEL Lisa Holmen
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FEATURE
RECIPES
REGULARS
TRUFFLES: FROM HUNT TO
BU SIE ITIK: SLOW-BRAISED DUCK
CONTRIBUTORS
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PLATE Lauren Bruce and Pia Hambour
CURRY WITH PANDAN, CINNAMON
NEWLY OPENED
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AND COCONUT MILK Hujan Locale
AROUND THE TRAPS
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THINGS WE LOVE REVIEWS
REGIONAL REGIONAL VICTORIAN PRODUCE Megan Osborne
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TANDOORI SQUID: STUFFED WITH
OUT AND ABOUT
PANEER CHEESE AND CASHEW
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THE DIARY
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NUT CAULIFLOWER WHY MELBOURNE LOVES
7 18
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Sarong 22
ON THE COVER: GARLIC Allium sativum, commonly known as garlic, is a species in the onion genus, Allium. Its close relatives include the onion, shallot, leek, chive, and rakkyo. With a history of human use of over 7,000 years, garlic is native to central Asia, and has long been a staple in the Mediterranean region, as well as a frequent seasoning in Asia, Africa, and Europe. It was known to Ancient Egyptians, and has been used both for food flavoring and traditional medicine.(Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
COVER DESIGN
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au
Jess Hourigan
ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren Bruce DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE
MEGAN OSBORNE
Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
LISA HOLMEN After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015. lisaeatsworld.com
LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property
TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
with her husband Wootten. ladonnadelvino.com TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
GASTROLOGY Gastrology is a Melbourne-based blog about food
and
other
deliciously
related
things.
They travel around Melbourne and sometimes
DEAN SCHMIDEG
beyond, enjoying food and wine along the way and reporting back to their readers. www.gastrology.co INSTAGRAM: gastrology.co TWITTER: gastrologyco
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival. TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
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A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb INSTAGRAM: dsimages / bardupmelb TWITTER: imagesDS / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
Showcasing the best of Australia’s independent breweries
BonE NtheD Ihop GO
20 AUGUST 28 BREWERIES, 56 BEERS, NO WINE, NO CIDER tickets on sale from 1 june
www.bendigobeer.com
NOW OPEN
FREDDIE WIMPOLES OPENED: May 2016 The highly anticipated Freddie Wimpoles is now open for business. Following a takeover from the iconic George Hotel, the name has been changed in honour of the original owner, Frederick Wimpole. The St Kilda venue is set to become a craft-beer destination of choice on Melbourne’s south side with 13 rotating taps and a warm hunting-lodge meets neon-light American diner feel. Coming from The Local Taphouse, Wayne Seberry has taken over the kitchen at Freddie Wimpoles. Seberry took a break as a chef after finishing at The Local Taphouse in January 2015 and has been at Woodfrog Bakery until now. As an avid craft beer lover, Sebbery jumped at the opportunity to join the team. His experience in craft beer pubs all over the world worked perfectly in creating the Freddie Wimpoles menu, which focuses on sub sandwiches, hot dogs and pickled snacks - faultless beer drinking food. All meats, stocks and sauces are made in-house and bread is delivered daily from Bakery Lievito.
MASSI
HIGHER GROUND
OPENED: April 27, 2016 Head chef and owner, Joe Vargetto has recently opened his doors to his new Sicilian restaurant, Massi, in the heart of the thriving Melbourne CBD.
OPENED: July 4, 2016 The team behind Melbourne favourite’s The Kettle Black and Top Paddock have opened the doors to their long awaited new project, Higher Ground. Despite a delayed start due to technical issues with equipment, the wait was well and truely worth it.
With wide success of Joe’s Kew establishment, Mister Bianco since 2011, it was a natural fit to further share his Sicilian cuisine and passion for quality Italian food with authentic flavours to local business, tourists, and CBD clientele. Open for traditional Italian colazione (breakfast bites) lunch and dinner Monday to Friday, Massi is the perfect hotspot for busy corporates to find a rich coffee, power lunches and post-work aperitif and a more intimate dinner setting. With a point of difference offering a licensed bottle shop, by passers can purchase wine from Massi’s extensive museum of selected wines or indulge by the bar and enjoy the city nightlife. 445 LITTLE COLLINS STREET, MELBOURNE massi.com.au | facebook.com/massirestaurant
Located on the corner of Little Bourke and Spencer Street, Higher Ground has had Melbourne foodies champing at the bit for well over a year. The 160seat venue has been reimaged by DesignOffice, and transformed from power station into a modern and truely remarkable space, featuring exposed brick, green marble and jaw dropping mezzanine level. Open seven days a week, including three nights, the menu promises to be technically intricate. Daytime diners will enjoy cauliflower scramble with house-made flatbread; roasted mushrooms with polenta; or a wagyu short-rib roll with pickled daikon. 650 LITTLE BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE highergroundmelbourne.com.au instagram.com/highergroundmelbourne
twitter.com/massirestaurant| instagram.com/massirestaurant
125 FITZROY STREET, ST KILDA freddiewimpoles.com| facebook.com/freddiewimpoles instagram.com/freddie_wimpoles
FOURTH CHAPTER OPENED: June 10, 2016 The fourth cafe for owner Sarah Jane Whifield, Fourth Chapter brings a light airyness to High Street, Prahran. Boasting a fresh and nourishing menu, Fourth Chapter is a welcome addition to Melbourne’s food landscape. 385 HIGH STREET, PRAHRAN fourthchapter.com.au instagram.com/fourth_chapter facebook.com/fourthchaptercafe
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THE ALPS WINE SHOP AND BAR
FRESH HOOD MARKET
OPENED: May 20, 2016 The third iteration of Lyndon Kubis’ highly successful neighbourhood haunts Milton Wine Shop and Toorak Celler has opened it’s doors in Prahran.
OPENED: July 16, 2016 Located in a former bingo and fresh food hall on the Preston Market site, the Fresh Hood Market project aims to raise the bar on the North Side with f&b offerings from ‘Henriettas Chicken Shop’ (Albert St Food and Wine), Filipino street food masters ‘Hoy Pinoy’ (Night Noodle Markets, Queen Vic), Melbourne’s original craft beer purveyors ‘3 Ravens Brewery’ and ‘Meet Patty’…a brand new burger venture from Chef Andy Gale (Duchess of Spotswood, St Ali).
The Alps boasts a wine list with more than 400 titles, as well as beers both on tap and in cans, and a bar menu that is everything it should be in this sophistcated wine bar. 64 COMMERCIAL ROAD, PRAHRAN thealpsprahran.com
22-26 CRAMER STREET, PRESTON prestonfreshhood.com | instagram.com/prestonfreshhood
AROUND THE TRAPS OVER THE MOO EXPANDS FLAVOUR RANGE
MELBOURNE CAFE TAKES TOP COFFEE HONOURS
Since launching in May 2015, Over the Moo has enjoyed fantastic success.
Melbourne cafe Patricia has taken out top spot
A Melbourne made coconut milk ice cream, Over the Moo was created
in Yelp’s annual Top Coffee Poll.
because their head honcho, Alex, was tired of the same old dairy free ice cream options.
To determine Australia’s top 100 coffee spots for 2016, the data science brainiacs at Yelp
Distributed through Woolworths and IGA, Over the Moo have this week
analysed which coffee places were the most
launched two new flavours; I FELL FOR CARAMEL: Coconut caramel ice
popular and well reviewed. They compared
cream oozing with ripples of salted caramel sauce and toffee balls, and
businesses from across the country using
GINGER NINJA KARATE CHOC: Coconut chocolate ice cream rammed
a ranking that considered total ratings and
with chunks of gingernut cookie.
number of reviews, while also accounting for quality, popularity, and statistical fluctuations.
Creator Alex Houseman says: “We’re pumped to be adding to our range with flavours that are decadent, indulgent and packed with crunchy and
t’s no surprise that Melbourne holds its
gooey inclusions. Over The Moo is pushing the envelope flavour-wise but
reputation as the Australian city with the
ensuring our products remain totally dairy free, gluten free and vegan.”
highest proportion of coffee snobs. Perennial Melbourne laneway favourite Patricia takes the
The new flavours are now available in 500mL tubs at selected IGA
top spot and 27 Victorian businesses made the
supermarkets in NSW, VIC, ACT and QLD. They are expected to retail at
list overall (the best of any state). The other big
$10.50.
surprise is Western Australia, punching well above its weight with 25 businesses featured in the Top 100.
WWW.OVERTHEMOO.COM.AU
Photo: Tony T
the
truffle
shuffle
During July, we’re making it easy to create your own delicious truffle dishes. Visit Georgie’s Harvest to start your Shuffle.
Photo: Amy T
Yelp's Top 100 Coffees in Australia 1. Patricia, Melbourne, VIC 2. E For Ethel, North Adelaide, SA 3. Social Brew, Pyrmont, NSW 4. Lowdown, Perth, WA 5. Bunker, Milton, QLD 6. The League of Honest Coffee, Melb, VIC 7. Coffee Branch, Adelaide, SA 8. Monk Bodhi Dharma, Balaclava, VIC 9. The Pantry on Egmont, Hawthorn, SA 10. Toastface Grillah, Perth, WA 11. Mister Sunshine’s, Thebarton, SA 12. Brother Baba Budan, Melbourne, VIC 13. Dukes Coffee Roasters, Melbourne, VIC 14. Single Origin Roasters, Surry Hills, NSW 15. Exchange Specialty Coffee, Ade SA 16. Room 10, Potts Point, NSW 17. John Mills Himself, Brisbane, QLD 18. Chu Bakery, Highgate, WA 19. The Kettle Black, South Melbourne, VIC 20. The Old Crow, Perth, WA
Photo: Bob C
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TRUFFLES From The Hunt To The Plate WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR AND LAUREN BRUCE
It goes without saying that truffles are absolutely delicious. The richness and the perfume of this superior ingredient is unique and mysterious – but it can be intimidating for some. Director of Truffle Melbourne, Nigel Wood’s raison d’etre is to make the foodstuff more accessible to the general public. Despite the many foodies that inhabit Victoria, there are few more passionate about truffles than Wood; and when asked why he is so dedicated to them, his answer is simple. “They’re just so beguiling, really,” he says. “There’s just nothing like them.” Although truffle farming has an enduring history in other parts of the world, particularly Europe, it’s a relatively young practice in Australia. The process of truffle farming intrigued Wood from the beginning. After growing up around the food industry in Australia and beyond, it wasn’t long before Wood developed a keen interest in the truffle farming process. “Around 20 years ago I invested in one of the first Australian truffieres (truffle orchards), which was in Tasmania,” Wood says. Wood eventually acquired his own truffle farm, Truffle Paddock, and became Secretary of the Truffle Growers’ Association, a position he held for a number of years. “I just got more and more involved, I guess,” he says. Wood is currently in Melbourne launching this year’s Truffle Melbourne. The festival is based at Melbourne’s Prahran Market, and while it’s a celebration of all things delicious, its main focus is to educate about truffles; namely, how they’re grown, how easy it is to cook with them, and most importantly, how to ensure you get your money’s worth. “People are intimidated by the product and will often go, ‘oh, I don’t want to muck [cooking with truffle] up, it’s so expensive…’ but you know, it’s not that hard!” Wood says. “There are fantastic exotic dishes you can make with it, but actually, simple is often best.” Wood says that although truffle is an expensive ingredient, he has some tips for making a little go a long way. “When you get your truffle home, place it on some raw eggs or risotto rice in a container in the fridge’s crisper drawer,” he says. “Without even cooking with it yet, the truffle’s flavours are already infusing into your food. You’ve got truffle infused scrambled eggs sitting in your fridge!” 11
Wood isn’t alone in his truffle revolution. One of
truffles weren’t being grown here (the imported
comes to growing truffles, as I discovered visiting
his most formidable Truffle Melbourne supporters
truffles he tasted had been sent to him by a friend
McAuley’s farm following the Truffle Melbourne
is chef Guy Grossi, who is passionate about
- in the post!). “By the time they got to me, they
launch. The farm in Red Hill has been in her family
seasonal, sustainable produce; and in particular,
were really in bad condition… but you could still
since 1886. Originally an apple farm, McAuley
truffles. Grossi often uses the funghi in dishes at
smell them and taste them and it was still a really
began growing trees with a view to harvesting
his restaurants Grossi Florentino Grossi describes
exciting experience,” He says. But despite this,
truffles on the land in 2005. “Those first trees
his first experiences of truffle as “elated” – and
he was still blown away by his first taste of the
aren’t yet eleven years old. But I can remember
after he got a taste for the flavour of the product,
unique food.
the first truffles we harvested. We ate one, and we gave one of them to the local winery’s restaurant,
there was no going back. “I was in love at first sight – or taste – with that really pungent flavour
“But now, we have our own truffles growing in
Montalto, in Red Hill. We still have a copy of the
they have; and they’re so versatile as well,” Grossi
Australia, and the quality is exceptional. The
menu that utilised that truffle, printed and framed
says. “When it’s in season, I use it all the time.”
smell of a Victorian grown truffle is absolutely
on our wall.”
amazing.” There’s no questioning why McAuley has so much
While Grossi’s restaurants are at the higher end of Melbourne’s dining establishments, Grossi
Wood says the scent, as well as the appearance,
pride in her ability to produce and maintain a
concurs with Wood that when it comes to truffle,
is important in spotting a good, ripe, fresh truffle.
prolific truffle farm. There is quite a science to
using modest ingredients is often key to showing
“Have a sniff of a few of them, if you can,” Wood
it, and a lot of variables and challenges, when
the product in its best light.
says. “There is a bit of terroir in there, like wine. So
it comes to how the truffles are grown and
what you’re looking for is a really attractive nose,
harvested.
“I think the simplest dishes are the best to show
a nice aroma, a strong black colour with white
off the truffle,” Grossi says. “[At my restaurants]
marbling on the inside, and for the truffle to be
As we carefully pick our way through rows of
we use it on dishes like pasta, risotto… we might
firm and dry.”
trees on the truffiere, McAuley explains to the group a little bit about how the magic happens.
do a nice white pizza with fontina and then add What you can discern from the truffle’s perfume
“The majority of what I grow on the truffiere is
seems to be the most important thing about
the Perigord, or the black truffle, which grows on
“Another dish I really enjoy doing with truffle is
harvesting a truffle, according to Red Hill Truffles
hazelnut and oak trees,” She says.
something I call the Prince and the Pauper, which
owner Jenny McAuley (McAuley also plays a large
is just sautéed potato, a little bit of onion and
part in the Truffle Melbourne Festival). “When
McAuley says oak and hazelnut trees are
some butter. Add pasta, and allow it to emulsify
you’re smelling it, take your time,” she says. “You
used because they form the best symbiotic
with a little bit of stock, and then the shaved
might smell a bit of a seafood scent, or the truffle
relationship with the truffle. “The tree likes the
truffle just lifts it to another level.”
might smell sweet – but anything you smell is
truffle,” she says. “It doesn’t actually care about
quite legitimate. We all smell things differently.”
the truffle itself, but it likes the active fungus and
shaved truffle on top.
what it does to the soil, because it kills competing
Grossi says that his first Australian truffle experience was slightly disappointing, given
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The smell is just the tip of the iceberg when it
weeds around the tree. And the fungus likes the
tree, attaching itself to the roots to soak up the
I’ve found myself in where my partner is a dog,”
way; and that, despite the complexity of the
nutrients and moisture.”
she laughs.
practice, prospective truffle growers shouldn’t be deterred from owning a farm themselves.
McAuley says a good indication that the symbiotic
Dogs, of course, weren’t the first animal to be
relationship between the fungus and the tree is
used in harvesting truffle. For over 100 years in
“I love it. It’s wonderful. It’s absolutely wonderful,”
developing is by the “burnt” appearance of the
Europe, pigs have been used to find the delicious
she says. “I’m not saying growing truffles is without
ground surrounding the base, called the “brulee
funghi – and are commonly known as the animal
stress, but it’s lovely to be growing something like
effect”.
traditionally used in truffle hunting. “You don’t
this. It’s just a matter of research, experience and
have to train them, because they smell the scent
getting a feel for what you’re doing.”
“You can see the fungus is active in the soil
of testosterone on the truffle, and it smells like
because the grass is dead around the tree, and
their mate, so they want to eat it,” McAuley says.
Truffles hold the same fascination and passion for
that’s called brulee,” she says. “Like crème brulee,
“The issue is, they eat the truffle, and I don’t fancy
Wood, which is why he is determined to spread
it has a lovely burnt top – and that’s what tells me
putting my hand down a sow’s mouth to retrieve
the word that they can be enjoyed by anyone
this tree is producing truffle.”
it!”
who puts their mind to it.
Of course, McAuley can’t harvest these truffles
Wood says the sow is still widely thought of as the
“We don’t have a culinary history with local
alone – she needs a little help from a gorgeous
animal used in truffle hunting. “People often think
truffles in Australia until recently, which is why,
furry springer spaniel named Thomas. “This is one
about pigs,” Wood says. “The trouble with pigs is,
with Truffle Melbourne, we want to showcase
of the few agricultural industries that’s entirely
the sow can be 200kg or more… and trying to get
local truffles, how easy they are to cook with, and
dependent on an animal to harvest for you; and
in between a sow and a truffle is not going to be
how a little goes a long way,” he says. “We want
I’m entirely dependent on Thomas to find the
good for anyone!
to get people familiar with them.
truffle,” she says. “There are old European paintings of some of
“To me, they are a lens for other flavours; they’re
McAuley says people can get snobby about dogs
the early truffle hunters using pigs, and there are
a magnifier of other complimentary ingredients.
and that lots of people favour certain animals; but
noticeably missing fingers!”
And you know, I just love opening that fridge door and having that perfume wafting out! That’s why
after an unsuccessful experience trying to train a despite
all
the
challenges
associated
this is my favourite time of year.”
favoured breed, she found Thomas, a rescue dog
But
that had been trained by a former military dog
with growing truffle, there’s no disputing the
trainer.
mysterious appeal of the fungus for both
But don’t take our word for it; try a truffle recipe
producers and consumers alike.
for yourself! This is a lovely simple pasta dish Guy Grossi cooked for us when we visited him at
“Thomas and I just bonded,” McAuley says. “He owns me, not the other way around! But we work
McAuley says after moving from social work to
really well together. So it’s a funny sort of business
truffle farming, she wouldn’t have it any other
Grossi Florentino. (see over page)
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Guy Grossi’s Taglierini with Pine Mushroom TIP: Don’t wash the mushrooms before you cook them. Use a fine-bristled
TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH
brush such as an egg wash brush to brush off any soil etc that might be on them instead, because you don’t want to ruin their structure with water.
Ingredients: 150ml extra virgin olive oil
Serves 6
15g garlic, crushed
FOR THE PASTA
750g pine mushrooms, sliced
Ingredients:
120g unsalted butter
28 egg yolks
30g flat leaf parsley, chopped
500g. Pangkarra wholegrain durum flour from Clare Valley
90g Reggiano Parmigiano, grated Salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
Method:
30g Australian black truffle
1. Place all the ingredients into a mixing bowl with the dough hook attachment and mix on slow speed until smooth dough has formed. Wrap
Method:
and refrigerate for two hours, allowing the dough to rest before using.
1. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil.
2. Cut the pasta dough in half and roll through the pasta roller on the widest
2. Heat a pan on moderate heat with the olive oil and cook the garlic for a
opening. Fold and roll through again and repeat this until the dough is silky
few seconds to infuse the oil mix in the mushrooms, and mix continuously
smooth in texture, then roll through the pasta roller through the settings
for a minute. Add the butter and parsley season with salt and pepper.
until 2mm in thickness. Cut the pasta sheet into 20cm pieces. 3. Drop the pasta in the boiling water and mix gently to separate strands. 3. Roll through the taglierini cutter or if you haven’t got a cutter, flour the
Cook al dente for two minutes; strain and add to pasta with the Parmesan
sheets thoroughly and stack together, then cut with a sharp knife into 5mm
to the pan. Mix vigorously to emulsify, adding a little of the pasta water to
wide pasta strips.
the pan, and plate.
4. Roll into 100g portions.
4. Shave Australian truffle over the top and serve immediately.
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How Good! On Friday August 5th participating cafes will be donating $1 from every coffee sold to support people who are homeless. All proceeds go to the great work done by StreetSmart! Don’t forget to pop in to your nearest participating cafe on the 5th, buy yourself a coffee and leave a matching $1 donation. See you then! :) Find a participating cafe streetsmartaustralia.org Like/Share/Follow @StreetSmartAust #CafeSmart
05 AUGUST 16 2016 Partners:
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EAST BAR AND RESTAURANT WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY GASTROLOGY
Walking into the restaurant located at Sheraton Melbourne Hotel on Little
The Shanghainese Lamb was beautifully tender and full of flavour while
Collins Street guests are greeted with a calming Jade interior that creates
the dish of Fragrant & Crispy Duck with Steamed Bun had us fighting for
a sense of ease. Once seated and ready to peruse the menu the array of
the last morsel. The fluffy and moist buns were a lovely canvas for the
dishes that are designed to share leaves you instantly picking favourites to
velvety duck flesh and its perfectly crisp skin.
suggest to your dining companion. For dessert, EAST’s take on the traditional fried ice cream was delicious. The menu features a delicious array of options courtesy of recently
The ice cream was coated in a crisp coconut and bread crumb coating that
appointed head chef Gang Qian, known as Ben, who has previously worked
was ethereally light. It was a pleasant end to our meal.
at the Radisson Blu Plaza Xingguo Hotel in Shanghai - a restaurant that only serves two tables per day, in which usually sit presidents, government
To match, the beverage menu at EAST is a well curated list. There is a
officials, and royalty on various occasions.
diverse selection of cocktails that are refreshingly inventive. Think the Red Ginger made with white rum, lime juice, sugar syrup, fresh strawberry,
We loved eating our way through the menu.
mint leaves that are pummeled together and topped with ginger ale or for something creamier the Peanut Butter Mudslide made with vodka, baileys,
To start, a selection of signature HuTong group dim sums are a must-have.
Kahlua and peanut butter that are shaken together and twirled with cream.
While many Chinese restaurants serve dumplings, EAST’s variety are a cut
There are a number of beers on the menu, both Australian and imported,
above. Their Xiao Long Bao in particular impressed. The allure of these
and a diverse wine list.
dumplings lie in their gracefully delicate pastry skin enveloping rich porkseasoned broth.
If you are after something more traditional EAST also serve premium Chinese tea with flavours including the delicate and slightly floral
Usefully, EAST’s staff are on hand to provide instructions on the
Chrysanthemum tea, Tai Hu Green Bamboo tea which is perfect to assist in
recommended steps for consuming the Xiao Long Bao - steps which
energising you post meal, and the Rose Flower tea that is a great choice if
involve piercing the pastry skin to suck out the broth within and then
you are wanting to warn off the upcoming flu season as it assists in helping
subsequently flavouring the remaining pastry and minced pork dumpling
the body fight colds.
with black vinegar and shredded ginger. These soupy morsels may demand more effort than your run-of-the-mill pork dumpling, but we assure you
Incredibly versatile and exceedingly delicious, EAST is perfect for a business
will be rewarded.
luncheon, after work Chinese tapas with work friends or a weekend dinner with loved ones.
An absolute show stopper was the premium steamed black truffle juicy pork dumplings. The steamed pork dumplings were infused with shaved
EAST BAR AND RESTAURANT
truffle and truffle oil and tasted nothing short of amazing. It was a decadent
25 Little Collins Street, Melbourne
dumpling with fragrant aromas.
PH: (03) 9650 8838 eastrestaurant.com.au
For mains the Slow Cooked Shanghainese Lamb with Sweet Soy Sauce
FACEBOOK: eastbarandrestaurant
and Tea Smoked Duck were lovely.
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HELLENIC HOTEL WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN
Foodies have another reason to flock to the seaside suburb of Williamstown
buzzy tavern downstairs, or enjoying a cocktail and some pub fare in the
with the much-anticipated opening of George Calombaris’ and Travis
public bar upstairs. There’s also a spacious verandah with spectacular
McAuley’s Hellenic Hotel.
views of the seaside and city skyline. Bring on summer in Williamstown!
I was lucky enough to attend the soft launch earlier in the month to get a
Crafted by head chef Josh Pelham (ex Estelle), the menu showcases
sneak peek of the restaurant and, of course, sample the menu.
modern Greek dining, which Calombaris likes to call “Gastro Greek” – a Hellenic touch on great Ausssie pub food. Diners can expect to feast
Converted from one of the west’s most iconic pub buildings, the Hobsons
on freshly shucked oysters, local seafood and all the Greek classics like
Bay Hotel, the Hellenic Hotel opening has breathed new life into the
souvlakis, lamb and rotisserie chicken served piping hot from the open
heritage building. The façade still remains largely the same, but venture
kitchen. The drinks menu features a great range of local and Hellenic wines
inside and you’ll be in for a treat.
and of course the traditional Greek aperitif- ouzo if you’re feeling game!
It’s an incredibly handsome venue, with lofty ceilings and a distinct
The feed me menu at $49 per person (seven courses), is a great option for
nautical feel. It plays on a kaleidoscope of ocean blues and, like all of
the indecisive and/or hungry! And at the end of a chilly Melbourne day, this
Calombaris’ restaurants, pays homage to its Greek heritage by using the
was the perfect option…
Greek Matiasma “the evil eye” on its plates. There’s plenty of exposed brick and piping which gives it a contemporary feel, warmed up by the use of
We started with a bowl of warm Mount Zero Olives marinated in garlic,
greenery throughout the venue. Patrons have the option of dining in the
thyme and olive oil paired with freshly baked pita and taromosalata (white
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cod roe dip). This was so good we had to request more pita to mop up
topped with rhubarb and candied pistachios. Next time I have my sight
every last bit.
set on the pavlova which looked large enough to serve a small army, and the passionfruit loukoumades. I’m getting hungry just thinking about it.
This was followed by a sizzling plate of saganaki, finished with apple, clove and black sesame which gave the dish a delicate spicy flavour and
Hellenic Hotel makes a welcome addition to Williamstown and will no
a touch of sweetness. With a gorgeous golden gleam on top, the fried
doubt develop a loyal following from locals and tourists alike. It may be
cheese literally oozed from the middle upon cutting.
two years overdue, but it was certainly worth the wait.
A comforting bowl of kritharaki was infused with squid ink to give it a
HELLENIC HOTEL WILLIAMSTOWN
jet black colour and finished with a sprinkling of mussels and fennel. This
A 28 Ferguson Street, Williamstown, Vic 3016
was definitely one of the highlights of the evening.
T (03) 9393 1000 hellenicrepublic.com.au
Straight from the rotisserie, the chicken was succulent and tender, with a crispy golden skin. The side dishes included a heirloom carrot salad with fenugreek and roasted almonds and my personal favourite – beetroot paired with sumac and a dusting of pistachios. We finished on a sweet note with a risagolo (a rice pudding of sorts)
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THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
FROM INDIAN CURRIES TO THE PERFECT BURGER The Neff Market Kitchen at the South Melbourne Market
hosts
up-close
and
personal
cooking
experiences with some of Melbourne’s favourite chefs. From
their
Visit
India:
Curries
and
Kebabs
Market2Table class with Hansika Menon on August 6, to the Street Eats: The Perfect Burger Master Class with Paul Tyas, head chef at The Grosvenor Hotel on August 31, there will be a class to suit everyone’s appetite. With classes limited to 12 people, the Neff Market Kitchen is an intimate venue where you not only learn amazing culinary skills, you also get to enjoy the delicious meals at the end over a glass of wine. For more information about the Neff Market Kitchen cooking classes visit SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET. COM.AU/COOKING-SCHOOL
LITTLE BRIXTON SAUCES AND MARINADES The Little Brixton story started in Jamaica, developed in England, and has finally come to life in Australia. Founded by Richard Johnson and his Aussie partner Sechelle, he was surrounded by British culture, and raised in Brixton, in a Jamaican home that was bursting with music, good food and generous hospitality. With a traditional Jamaican jerk marinade as well as a couple of sauces – Rum and BBQ Sauce and the award winning Jerk Mustard Sauce, Little Brixton brings a little bit of Brixton to Melbourne with all natural quality ingredients, no shortcuts and lots of love. Order online at LITTLEBRIXTON.COM or check our stockists page on the website.
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THINGS WE LOVE FOUR PILLARS BLOODY SHIRAZ Bloody Shiraz Gin is the latest release from the distillers at Four Pillars Gin in Healesville. They’ve taken shiraz grapes, steeped the fruit in the gin for eight weeks, then squeezed the berries into even more Rare Dry Gin to create Bloody Shiraz Gin. The spirit has a gorgeous purple colour which turns bright pink when mixed, with hints of raspberry, juniper and spice. Launched on World Gin Day on June 11, there is limited supply which is available on the website www. fourpillarsgin.com.au or at the Four Pillars Distillery, 2A Lilydale Road, Healesville VIC 3777. Enquiries - jen@fourpillarsgin.com.au FOURPILLARSGIN.COM.AU
IN2TEA In2tea was born from a love of tea and adventure - while travelling overseas
The tea lasts up to 12 hours once dissolved and comes in convenient
Melbourne sisters Hannah and Kate discovered a tea extract that could
individual sachets, making it perfect to add to your water bottle, take to
dissolve instantly into hot or cold water. Amazed by the delicious taste
work or blend with your juices and smoothies.
and stunningly simple design, they were compelled to bring this unique tea to Australia.
Currently available online at WWW.IN2TEA.COM.AU with complimentary shipping Australia wide.
A few more adventures later In2tea was born - using only USDA certified organic tea and 100% natural ingredients, In2tea’s tea extracts are created
INSTAGRAM.COM/IN2TEA_AUSTRALIA
using nano-extraction technology and a low-heat evaporation over 72 hours, resulting in naturally high antioxidant levels and a clean tea flavour.
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WHY MELBOURNE LOVES REGIONAL VICTORIAN PRODUCE WORDS MEG OSBORNE
The terms ‘paddock to plate’ and ‘farm to table’ have surpassed being
their hydroponically grown basil was a huge hit, leading them to expand
trendy, to the point of being overused, but it says something about the
not only in size, but into the micro green market, too.
feeling in the market that adding those labels (authentic or not), purvey value to a consumer.
So what are micro greens? A lot of emphasis is put on the way a meal looks now, especially in some of Melbourne’s most popular dining spots. While
The theory behind the words is basically one of; love local, and popularity
this doesn’t always speak for the flavour of the dish, in regards to micro
aside, it’s a valid stance to take. The benefits of choosing local produce are
greens, it sure does! If you get served up a plate of almost-too-pretty-to-
many, from supporting your nearby, independent growers, to embracing
eat food, you may notice small leaves and perhaps edible flowers sitting on
(and understanding) seasonal produce, to simply enjoying fresher—and
top. The great thing about these little add-ons, Susie Young tells us, is that
therefore tastier—food on your plate.
they don’t lack in the flavour department. ‘I think that’s why micro greens have gotten so popular and they’ve stayed popular,’ she says; ‘because
While it is such a drawcard, and a definite promo-worthy phrase, you’d
you’re not missing out on anything. They’ve even got all the same vitamins
actually be hard pressed to not find regional Victorian produce amongst
and minerals of the larger plants.’ In fact, some of the herbs and greens in
some of Melbourne’s best restaurants and cafes. From edible flowers
their micro format actually provide a stronger flavour, Young tells us, such
and micro greens, to free-range livestock, to absolutely delicious dairy,
as; ‘rocket and radishes, which can get a bit more peppery as they get
we looked into why Melbourne is lucky enough to have some of the best
older.’
produce around. B&B Basil grow their plants in hydroponic sheds, which are undercover Susie Young and George Bobin are a father daughter team that run B&B
and protected. This means no pests, and no spraying. ‘It’s a very controlled
Basil, a micro green specialist based out of Bendigo. Starting out in 2000,
environment’, Young tells us, from the water, to the temperature, to the
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PHOTO: AMANDA MALONE
organic soil that’s placed in the pot. About 80% of the B&B Basil business
McIvor Farms in Tooborac, Victoria, are proud to farm old breed Berkshire
goes through distributors to eateries in Melbourne, with a production
pigs, with a holistic farming outlook they tout as ‘beyond free-range’. The
quantity of around 30,000 units a week! The popularity of the micro green
system is devised around utilising the pigs’ natural behavioural tendencies
market—and Melbourne restaurants’ desire to stay local—has enabled the
to roam dig, and disturb the soil, with the result being regenerating the
business to grow and expand over time, and also discover new ways to
land. Husband and wife duo Jason and Belinda Hagan inherited the farm
innovate. ‘We’ll keep dabbling on growing things in the dark and looking
from Jason’s family (three generations in Tooborac), along with a passion
at different grow lights, as the innovation changes out in the market’ says
for pigs and sustainable, environmentally friendly farming.
Young, as well as focussing on different sources of heating and solar options. Belinda Hagan tells us that maintaining the beyond free-range philosophy; What B&B Basil offer will also be expanding, with the team looking into
‘can be a challenge when seasons are difficult’, but that the priority is around
a more mature leaf and devising specialty salad blends. Young tells us,
farming the soil, and managing the animals as best they can. Essentially
‘flowers are in such high demand, everybody is loving edible flowers at
the view is this; if the soil is respected through farming, Hagan tells us
the moment.’ But there are also a few very unique flavours that seem to
‘it’s not about taking the most out of it. It’s actually putting back into it.’
be increasing in popularity; lemon balm and red shiso. Part of what makes
This means that healthy plants will grow, followed by healthy animals, ergo
the business so successful, is sussing out the movement in the market
healthy food. The process of rejuvenating the soil is a slow and careful one
according to Young, who’s next step is to; ‘Get out into the marketplace
that they manage through the pigs’ natural behaviour. Hagan tells us that
and talk to more chefs, finding out what’s next, what could they possibly
on McIvor Farms, priorities have developed into bolder statements; ‘[What]
want us to grow.’
Began about the animals and giving them a better life, and having a system that was very high in ethics and welfare, has become so much more than
In the case of B&B Basil, they’ve found an area in which they can develop
that now.’ The Hagan’s biggest passion is bringing life back to the land and
a superior product, and become experts in it. The success shows through
building an ecosystem from the ground up—literally. ‘Both Jason and I are
the massive reception Melbourne restaurants and cafes have shown the
fortunate to do what we love,’ Hagan tells us. ‘We are not saying it’s easy…
micro green product, and it’s ongoing. A trend we’ve found consistent
it’s actually bloody hard work! But McIvor Farm and us can only do what we
amongst regional producers, is often they specialise, and their products
do with the support of customers.’
hold a unique point of difference that makes them so attractive to the city dining destinations.
McIvor Farms are big believers in local produce on local plates, which is why 100% of their perfect pork ends up in Victoria. It can be found across
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Melbourne and the central Victoria region at markets, butchers, providores
in their own way, producing stunning savoury and sweet ice creams and
and even restaurants, with the likes of Grossi Florentino and Ombra Salumi
dessert with Yarra Valley Dairy curds.
Bar putting the paddock to plate statement into practice. Popular dishes are pork belly, Belinda Hagan tells us, but they’re also seeing a rise in pork
If you take the short trip north of Melbourne, you’ll be met with an unassuming
cheek, advising us to check out Masons’ in Bendigo. ‘[They] do this amazing
tin shed, that modestly hides a stunning interior and breathtaking views.
‘crackle pin-wheel’’, she says, stating that she loves seeing the full circle,
Boasting a cellar door featuring twenty independent wine makers in the
resulting in ‘great produce, from great chefs’.
area, it’s not all about the cheese at Yarra Valley Dairy (but it is, mostly about the cheese, and we’re more than fine with that, too.)
Great produce on Melbourne plates is becoming more accessible by the minute, and Yarra Valley Dairy is a name you’re probably familiar with living
Yarra Valley Dairy have become so popular in Melbourne, you can
in Melbourne. Not only is it a well known brand and locally celebrated, but
purchase their craftfully creamy products at delis, grocers and even some
it’s also an easy drive out of Melbourne into the Yarra Valley—a must stop
supermarkets around town. The brand is thriving, stocking internationally
on your next winery trip! Yarra Valley Dairy uses fresh cow’s milk from
in the United States, and makes a cheesy appearance on Emirates and
nearby dairy farms, and goat’s milk from Gippsland to create their artisan
Qantas domestic and international flights. Although Melbourne and greater
cheeses. ‘Winemaking and cheesemaking have a real similarity, because
Victoria still embrace it as one of their favourites, with some of Melbourne’s
it’s about the terroir, about the land, about what the cows are eating and
best restaurants such as The Press Club approaching them to make some
how well they’re looked after,’ Yarra Valley Dairy Brand Manager Catherine
unique cheesy delights. Again, the lure of local is well-loved in Melbourne.
McCarthy tells us.
‘The value of people eating locally is kind of a no brainer really,’ says McCarthy, and we couldn’t agree more!
McCarthy informs us that the produce used to create the cheese is important, but a lot of credit goes to the cheesemaker. ‘It’s one thing to make the
If this article has left you feeling hungry, you could always cook up a
cheese, but it’s actually in what you do with it and how you treat it and how
decadent McIvor pork cheek, sprinkle some stunning B&B Basil micro
you mature it that will really contribute to it’s flavour profile.’ She says. Head
greens on top, and serve with a creamy Yarra Valley Dairy goat’s cheese
Cheesemaker Jack Holman is a forager from way back, experimenting with
salad. Just a thought. #Paddocktoplate
Australian ‘bush native’ flavours, such as eucalyptus and wattle during the cheesemaking process, as well as collaborating with nearby Four Pillars Distillery to create a botanical flavoured rind. Restaurants are innovating
25
BU SIE ITIK
Slow-braised duck curry with pandan, cinnamon and coconut milk RECIPE BY HUJAN LOCALE INGREDIENTS
METHOD
Serves 2 ITIK DUCK CURRY PASTE
ITIK DUCK CURRY PASTE
Slowly simmer for 1.5 hours until duck is soft and
Blend all ingredients into fine paste. Set aside.
tender. Ensure the duck stays submerged in the liquid at all times.
4 shallots 12 cloves garlic
SPICE MIX
80 dried long red chillies
Grind all ingredients into powder.
Once the duck is cooked, remove from the liquid onto a resting rack.
10 cinnamon sticks 10 knobs turmeric, peeled
DUCK CURRY
50 candlenuts
Marinate the duck by rubbing the spice mix into
Reduce the braising liquid until thick, like a
2 teaspoons white pepper
the meat. Leave for at least an hour.
rendang. Adjust the sauce to your liking with more of the spices, salt and pepper.
2 teaspoons black pepper Spice Mix
Heat oil in a large pot. Add salam leaves, bruised
3 teaspoons cumin seeds
lemongrass, cardamom, curry leaves and pandan
Once the sauce is ready, cut your duck into
3 teaspoons coriander seeds
leaves and cook until the spices are aromatic.
smaller serving-size pieces. Add back into the
Add in the curry paste and cook until fragrant.
curry sauce and reheat.
1 braised duck
Add in the spiced duck, ensuring the paste is
TO SERVE
½ cup vegetable oil
covering the duck. Pour over the coconut milk
Garnish with fried curry leaves, fried curly chilli
3 salam leaves
and bring to the boil.
and coriander.
DUCK CURRY
1 stalk lemongrass, bruised 3 pieces white cardamom 1g curry leaves 1 pandan leaf, tied 2 cups sie itik curry paste Salt, to taste
RECIPES FROM FLAVOURS OF BALI
35g coconut milk The latest publication from Melbourne based Smudge TO SERVE
Publishing in the award-winning Flavours Of series,
Fried curry leaves
Flavours of Bali.
Fried red curly chillies A sprig coriander leaves
The beautifully presented book showcases the diverse dining scene in Bali, from fine dining at remarkable restaurants to sunset cocktails at beachside bars. With stunning visuals, signature recipes and profiles of the island’s top chefs, Flavours of Bali offers a comprehensive guide to all the Bali dining scene has to offer. Flavours of Bali $80 – Available at all good bookshops and online: smudgeeats.com.au/product/flavours-of-bali/
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TANDOORI SQUID
Stuffed with Paneer Cheese and Cashew Nut Cauliflower
RECIPE BY SARONG METHOD
INGREDIENTS Serves 5 RAITA YOGHURT
MINT CHUTNEY
RAITA YOGHURT
2 tablespoons diced onion
5 green birds eye chillies
Combine diced onion, tomato and cucumber with the
2 tablespoons diced tomato
1 large bunch coriander, leaves only
yoghurt. Season with the salt, garam masala and chat masala
2 tablespoons diced cucumber
1 large bunch mint, leaves only
to taste. Transfer to the fridge until ready to use.
1 cup plain yoghurt
30ml rice vinegar
1 pinch salt
2 cups plain yoghurt
VEGETABLE FILLING
1 teaspoon garam masala
2 tablespoons garam masala
Prepare your vegetable filling by grating boiled cauliflower
1 teaspoon chat masala
2 tablespoons chat masala
and potato. Crumble together, then mix together with paneer. The mixture should still have texture.
VEGETABLE FILLING
GARNISH
1 piece cauliflower, boiled
2 pieces radicchio lettuce
Heat oil in a pan, sauté ajwan seed, garlic and green chillies.
3 pieces medium potatoes, boiled and peeled
2 pieces cucumber sticks
Add the crumbled vegetable mix and the rest of the
2 cups paneer – bought from your local Indian
2 sprigs coriander leaves
ingredients. Check the seasoning.
supplier or use ricotta
3 slices red onion rings
Oil, to sauté
2 lime cheeks
TANDOORI SQUID
2 tablespoons ajwan seeds
Fill ½ cup of vegetable mixture into each squid and add
4 tablespoons garlic, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons of cheddar cheese. Cook in the tandoori oven
10 long green chillies, chopped
for 7 minutes or bake in your oven for 30 minutes.
1 tablespoon chat masala 1 tablespoon chilli powder
MINT CHUTNEY
1 tablespoon turmeric powder
Combine chillies, coriander and mint leaves and pulse in the
1 cup cashew nut, chopped
blender for a minute. Add in the rice vinegar and mix with the
1 handful coriander leaves, chopped
yoghurt. Season with garam masala and chat masala. This is
½ tablespoon salt
best used immediately.
TANDOORI SQUID
TO SERVE
2 pieces squids, cleaned and washed
Serve squid on a plate with raita yoghurt and mint chutney on
2 tablespoons cheddar cheese
the side. Garnish with radicchio, cucumber sticks, coriander, onion and lime.
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REVIEWS FOUR RASCALS COFFEE - RAPSCALLION BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG When you put four mates together anything is bound
were the reasons Michael Pelosi decided to use it at
to happen, usually involving lots of alcohol and mass
his new cafe The Faculty in Hawthorn. With a passion
destruction. However if they all join forces in the
for customer service and prior hospitality experience,
name of good instead of evil and drink coffee instead,
he has wanted to have his own cafe since the age of 16
imagine what amazing things can be created. This
with the aim of looking after patrons with quality food
is the story of Four Rascals, also known as Richard,
and coffee. In a well established suburb and an area
Goran, Simon and Mei. The little blurb on their website
dominated by private schools, when people move
says it so well that I had no other option but to
here they usually stay and want to go somewhere they
duplicate it word for word - “They figured they could
are treated well and their faces are remembered. A bit
break the whole coffee roasting thing down to three
of a rogue himself, Michael’s choice of Four Rascals
easy-to-follow steps: 1. Don’t blow up the roaster 2.
was the perfect choice and the result is a consistent
Don’t strangle each other 3. Make awesome coffee.”
brew that pleases the locals who keep coming back.
And that’s exactly what they did. TO HAVE YOUR OWN CHEEKY RAPSCALLION The most popular of their blends is called Rapscallion,
EXPERIENCE, HERE ARE FOUR RASCALLY CAFES
a predominantly Arabica blend of seven origins
SERVING IT UP WITH A SMILE
including India, Brazil, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Mexico, Honduras and Ethiopia, producing a strong brew that’s a little sweet, a little feisty, with loads of character, just as a cheeky rascal should be. Easy to tune and working really well with both black and milk based coffees
The Faculty - 302 Barkers Rd, Hawthorn The Ambrosiary - 70 Portman St Oakleigh Happymaree - 229 Somerville Rd, Yarraville Fugazza - 5 Equitable Pl, CBD
fourrascals.com.au info@fourrascals.com.au
SOUTHERN BAY VANILLA OATMEAL STOUT - VANILLA NICE NICE BABY WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY TREV BIRKS - ON THE BANDWAGON Ok, I think that’s about the worst pun yet. Never fear,
success we experienced with the Vanilla Oatmeal
we’re only halfway through the year I’m sure I can
Stout last year was amazing and it really put us in the
come up with worse.
spotlight as a brewery in our own right. We just had to do it again, but the only change is a slight adjustment
Southern Bay Brewing, based in Moolap just outside
down to the amount of Vanilla to allow the other
of Geelong is well known in the industry as a
characteristics to shine as well”.
dependable contract brewer. But while the gang have contributed much to the craft beer scene by making
While I enjoy a measured vanilla hit in a dark brew, I
other people’s beers, in recent times the pendulum
believe the decision to temper it second time around
has swung back to a more even keel.
was a great move. Let’s face it, if you use 8 different specialty malts to deliver what is a delightful smooth
In 2011, the brewery was a split of about 80% contract
experience of chocolate and coffee, it would be a
and 20% their own range. Now however, it’s around
shame to overpower it. I loved this beer and highly
50-50 which has given Head Brewer Phil Rutjens and
recommend you give it a try! You can get Southern
his team much needed confidence to experiment and
Bay Vanilla Oatmeal Stout at all most beer venues and
show off their skills. Thanks to a 50 litre pilot system
bottle shops around Victoria. Catch the Southern Bay
they can try something outside the box while not
guys and 27 other breweries at Bendigo On The Hop
worrying about a huge bill if it’s not quite right. Which
on Saturday 20 August which will be showcasing over
brings me to the latest limited release, their 2016
50 different beers in what should be a great day out!
version of the Vanilla Oatmeal Stout. After widespread acclaim from beer drinkers in 2015, there was no hesitation to bring it back. I asked Southern Bay’s Sales Manager Paul Lucas if they were brave enough to tinker with a winning recipe. “The
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ABV: 6.5% STYLE: Sweet Stout SERVING TEMP: 6-8 degrees FOOD PAIRING: Braised beef cheek or vanilla custard tart ORIGIN: Geelong, Victoria PRICE (RRP): $9-12 500ml bottle BUY IT HERE: www.southernbay.com.au
SHADOWFAX MONDEUSE 2015 Werribee South, Victoria - RRP $28 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO Once upon a time I worked at the architecturally
I think this may be the only 100% Mondeuse made
brilliant Shadowfax Winery in Werribee South. It
in Australia. I purchased it late last year and I’m not
was located three minutes from where I grew up
sure why I resisted from opening it until now. From
so was the ideal location to boost my knowledge
what I have been told, it sold out from the winery in
of viticulture and winemaking whilst studying both
48 hours to bars, restaurants and retailers and now
subjects. The vineyard at the property hosted red
the wait is on for the new release.
grape varieties like Shiraz with some Pinot Noir. Truth be told, the Pinot often did not ripen so well so
Why such a buzz? It’s not just the label featuring
was used in the rose’ blend. That all changed with a
Biggie Smalls (The Notorious B.I.G) or that Mondeuse
bold decision by the winemaker, Matt Harrop, and his
is just something new for the Australian palate. This
team to pull out some of the underperforming vines
is an excellent wine filled with plenty of character.
and plant something new. Their idea was to plant
Not overloaded with sugar, think instead savoury
varieties that should be more at home in the area.
and spice and all things nice. As a more savoury-
The obscure eastern region of Savoie in France was
driven style of red, Mondeuse ticks all the boxes with
their inspiration with varieties like Grenache, Mataro,
earthy fruit (think wild berry fruits on a forest floor),
Cinsault and Mondeuse. If people didn’t think Harrop
supple acidity, smoky nuances and a good amount
was crazy before, they sure did now. The wait was
of tannin. It’s more medium-bodied than full, so
then on to see how they would perform.
suited the veal scallopine alla Marsala dish that was prepared wonderfully. STOCKISTS: 2016 released in early Spring and be quick, check out Blackhearts & Sparrows wine stores at their various locations from September.
BAR/D UP Video Feature Panama Dining Room & Bar // Fitzroy In collaboration with The Melbourne Gin Company Panama, a transcontinental country in Central
European inspired menu
America, an international hub, a melting pot of
also traverses countries
people and cultures from around the world. A
in a way that is uniquely
combination of Latin, American and European
Australian.
influences, it’s modern yet still steeped in
the $1 oyster happy hour every night from 6pm
history. Take these elements, put them into a
- 7pm, perfect with a glass of bubbles.
Don’t
forget
bar in Fitzroy, one of Melbourne’s more diverse suburbs and you have The Panama Dining
A loft conversion with exposed brick walls,
Room.
Panama like the country it’s named after embraces the past but isn’t scared to be
High above Smith Street, overlooking the
innovative. It’s a fusion of all things good
treetops and the old buildings, this highly
without being pretentious in any way. It’s a multi
regarded venue blends 70’s class with a touch
purpose space where you can start the night
of grunge to give patrons a relaxed experience
in one area then move around and continue
without compromising on quality drinks and
to party without having to leave, especially on
food. It’s a restaurant, a bar, a place you can have
Fridays and Saturdays from 10pm when the DJ
a game of pool and if you want you can even
starts his first set. With friendly, knowledgeable
have your wedding here. Specialising in single
staff to look after you from beginning to end, a
vineyard wines, cocktails made with craft spirits
trip to Panama is just what the doctor ordered.
and great local and international brews, the PANAMA DINING ROOM & BAR
9417 7663
2/231 SMITH STREET, FITZROY 3065 thepanama.com.au
31
OUT AND ABOUT WORLD GIN DAY PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
32
Three years on and World Gin Day is still the highlight of the drinking calendar at Melbourne’s Gin Palace. This year there was a West Winds lunch hosted by Jason Chan, a Four Pillars high tea with Samuel Ng, not to mention cheeky martini massages with the Plymouth Gin team,
a bathtub full of Hendricks punch and 2 for 1 drinks all afternoon featuring these gins together with an awesome one from Rogue Society in New Zealand.
THE DIARY 21 July 2016
BOATROCKER BEER ACADEMY - CRAFT BEER DINNER Academy Kitchen & Bar, 318 Bridge Road, Richmond
Boatrocker Brewery has teamed up with Academy Kitchen & Bar to bring you a relaxed and social craft beer evening and an opportunity to experience the ever-growing trend of pairing food with beer. Adam Holliday of Boatrocker Brewing is co-hosting this exciting craft beer event with Academy head chef and owner, Will Manning. Adam will present information throughout the evening on food and beer matching, as well as provide an insight into the much-loved local Boatrocker Brewery and the beer making process. Accomplished chef, Will Manning has designed a 4 course tasting menu showcasing Academy’s new winter menu. The dishes include hearty winter warmers, such as pork belly and beef cheek. As always, Academy delivers a perfectly balanced, upmarket home-cooking feel. Bookings now open via bookings@academykitchenandbar.com.au or 9427 8231.
10 August, 2016
P.J.O’BRIEN’S WINTER WHISKEY TASTING Hill Showgrounds, 180 Arthurs Seat Road, Red Hill South
Cost: $80 per person for four courses and matching beers
On Wednesday August 10 PJ O’Brien’s will take whiskey lovers on a tour around the different regions of Scotland to explore the variety and distinction that each region has to offer on the whiskey front. Complete with a matched three course dinner and hosted by an expert brand ambassador we will dive into some of the most renowned whiskeys such as Macallan, Highland Park, Bowmore, Auchentoshan, Ardmore and even venturing to the west coast of Ireland to see what Connemara has to offer. Throughout the night we will explore every corner of Scotland from the Lowlandsand Islay, to the Highlands and Islands, and discover what makes each region unique. Bookings essentail. Contact Cian O’Brien: 9686 5011 or email cian@pjobriens.com.au
5 August, 2016
BOOZY BOTANICALS Jardin Tan, Melbourne Gardens, Birdwood Avenue
All through July
THE TRUFFLE SHUFFLE
Commencing with tasting Maidenii’s cocktails at Jardin Tan, learn about the process of turning grains into alcohol and some history about vermouth! Then enjoy a walk and talk through the Gardens led by Tim Entwisle, botanical extraordinaire, and Shaun Byrne, self-professed bar-geek of Maidenii.
All through July
During the walk, you will get up close and personal to the plants and botanicals used in popular drinks. Your senses will be enlivened and you will learn more about the fascinating plants used in popular drinks. You may even learn a tip or two about growing these botanical ingredients at home!
Using expertly sourced, seasonal produce, Circa Head Chef, Rhys Blackley has crafted a weekly menu to please any palate. Pair that with a perfectly matched glass of wine ... winter’s not looking so bad after all.
Bookings required $45 per person $40.50 Friends’ members
Sunday, 19th June
T 03 9252 2429 for more information.
Kinkawooka mussels w. guanciale + friggitelli peppers Cobia sashimi w. ponzu + purple daikon Smoked quail w. butternut + spiced pepitas Mains
South Melbourne Market
During July, we’re making it easy to create your own delicious truffle dinner party!
Circa, The Prince
Every Sunday through winter, indulge in a winterinspired luncheon from award winning Circa kitchen.
ON THE MENU
Entrees
Wood grilled Seven’s Creek wagyu Brisket served w.local wild mushrooms + organic Japanese spinach Sunday, 26th June
From Saturday 2 July you can: 1. Visit Georgie’s Harvest on the Coventry Street side of the Market and let them know you’re there for the Truffle Shuffle
Entrees
2. Choose the dishes you want to cook from our recipe cards – a full dinner party or just one truffle dish
Victorian pigeon w. almonds + cured egg yolk BBQ king prawns w. fennel, pernod + orangen Local wild mushrooms w. biodynamic farro Mains
3. Do the Truffle Shuffle through the Market to pick up all the ingredients – traders are listed on the recipe cards 4. Head home and follow the simple recipes
23 July, 2016
5. Enjoy a delicious truffle inspired dinner
Helen’s Hill Estate, 16 Ingram Road, Lilydale
Alternatively you can download South Melbourne Market’s delicious truffle recipes from southmelbournemarket.com.au
Hled at Helen’s Hill Estate in Lilydale, Boots in the Barrel Hall is a Chardonnay Master Class which explores the winemakers grape and the many styles in which it is made. The event features Chardonnay from all around Australia and presented by the entertaining Allan Nalder, Owner of Helen’s Hill Estate. Bookings are essential. Please call Helen’s Hill Estate for for information.
Georgie’s Havest source their Australian truffles from the following regions: Forrest Truffles – Otways, Victoria Tamar Valley Truffles – Tasmania Manjimup Western Australia
WINTER GRAZE
BOOTS IN THE BARREL HALL
Slow roasted Flinder’s Island lamb shoulder served w. Jerusalem artichokes + wild nettle What: Sunday Winter Graze $55 | 2 courses $65 | 3 courses When: Every Sunday through winter Where: Circa, The Prince Want: Call (03) 9562 1122 or email dining@circa.com.au
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Do you want a slice of the Victorian foodie market? WHAT IS GRAM MAGAZINE? An unashamedly easy read, GRAM has been designed to be uncluttered and uncomplicated, with a clear and sole focus. Informative, beautiful, and solely dedicated to the topic of food and drink. GRAM magazine is a monthly compilation, offering a snapshot of articles, opinions and reviews, published online by local food bloggers as well as intelligence and thought provoking editorial content dedicated to food and drink. It has been created to give its readers access to varied opinions and thoughts about eating and drinking in Melbourne, from independent and local sources.
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