GRAM Magazine Issue 66 // OCTOBER 2016 by GRAM Magazine

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CONTENTS EATING OUT CHALAWAN Gastrology

FEATURE

RECIPE

REGULARS

RENAISSANCE TOWN: Bendigo’s Coming of Age

HERB ROASTED LEG OF LAMB

CONTRIBUTORS

With Hot Broad Bean and Feta

NEWLY OPENED

Tim Baxter, Georgia Haynes

TRAVEL FOODIE’S GUIDE TO SAN FRANSISCO Megan Osborne

Dressing

REGIONAL 22

THINGS WE LOVE

4 6 21

REVIEWS

OUT AND ABOUT

THE DIARY

HEATHCOTE WINE REGION: Ancient Soils and Full Bodied Wines Lauren Bruce

ON THE COVER: TOMATO The tomato is the edible, red fruit of Solanum lycopersicum, commonly known as a tomato plant, which belongs to the nightshade family, Solanaceae. The species originated in Central and South America. The Nahuatl (Aztec language) word tomatl gave rise to the Spanish word “tomate”, from which the English word tomato originates. Numerous varieties of tomato are widely grown in temperate climates across the world, with greenhouses allowing its production throughout the year and in cooler areas. The plants typically grow to 1–3 meters in height and have a weak stem that often sprawls over the ground and vines over other plants. (Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au

Jess Hourigan

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au

Lauren Bruce

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.

Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.

laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia

meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

LISA HOLMEN

LA DONNA DEL VINO

After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.

La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this

lisaeatsworld.com

with her husband Wootten.

TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

ladonnadelvino.com

TIM BAXTER

DEAN SCHMIDEG

A Bendigo native I started working in Hospitality in 1988 as a 17 year old. I’m a passionate home cook. A cricket tragic. A devoted Kangaroo’s fan. A lifelong vinyl record collector. A constant reader of varied educational drink, food and cooking books. And a dedicated imbiber of Gin, Whisky, Champagne, Wine, Craft Beer, Cocktails, Aperitifs and Digestifs….though not necessarily in that order.

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.

TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

MEGAN OSBORNE

Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property

TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino

A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb INSTAGRAM: dsimages / bardupmelb TWITTER: imagesDS / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com

www.chefshat.com.au 9

NOW OPEN OUT OF SUNDALAND

806 HIGH STREET, THORBURY outofsundaland.com.au

OPENED: September 2016 The name “Out of Sundaland” refers to theory that the now submerged area known as Sundaland or the Sundaic region, is the possible cradle from which the world’s Asian population originated from. It’s a biogeographical region of Southeastern Asia which encompasses the Sunda shelf, a part of the Asian continental shelf that was exposed during the last glacial period of the Pleistocene, from approximately 110 000 to 12 000 years ago making human migration throughout this area easier. This area includes the Malay Peninsula, Borneo, Java, Sumatra and surrounding islands.

instagram.com/out.of.sundaland

Drawing inspiration from the region it was named after, Out of Sunderland is a fusion of influences from right across the Asian region. The kitchen is headed up by ex-Hannoi Hannah chef, Shyam Maharjan and delights diners with share plates featuring Pork Neck Skewers (lemongrass marinated pork neck with shrimp and tamarind sauce), House Chicken Ribs (Taiwanese crispy chicken ribs) and Roasted Bone Marrow, just to name a selection. Open Thursday - Sunday from 3pm until late, Out of Sundaland continues the evolution of the Thornbury food precinct.

SAKE JR OPENED: 24 June 2016 Saké Jr Bourke Street marks Urban Purveyor Group’s foray into the casual dining space, which is expected to become Australia’s fatest growing dining sector over the next five years.

555 BOURKE STREET, MELBOURNE sakejrn.com.au

The fast-casual, small-format venue showcase the signature flavours of older sibling, Saké, served with a Korean twist. Urban Purveyor Group plans to roll out around 100 Saké Jrs nationally in the next five years. At least two more are expected to open before the end of 2016, one at Grosvenor Place dining precinct in Sydney and another at St Collins Lane shopping centre in Melbourne. Saké Jr Bourke Street is open from 7am for breakfast MondaySaturday, so customers can power up for the day with an acai bowl, seasonal fruit salad with yuzu, okinawa sugar banana bread, or berry and yuzu muesli.

Wed Fri Sat Sun

8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm

133 RUSSELL STREET, NORTH MELBOURNE qthotelsandresorts.com/ facebook.com/QTMelbourne instagram.com/qtmelbourne

QT MELBOURNE OPENED: September 9, 2016 The hotly anticipated launch of the designer hotel QT Melbourne brings four vibrant additions to the city’s famed hospitality scene: Pascale Bar & Grill; The Cake Shop; and Hot Sauce Laneway Bar. Pascale Bar & Grill, designed to pay homage to the ‘Paris-end’ of Collins Street, with its bold industrial chic and emphasis on high-fashion, will present an allday affair, indulging its guests with an expansive, French-infused, Euro bistro inspired menu designed by QT Melbourne’s Executive Chef Paul Easson (QT Sydney’s Gowings Bar & Grill, Rockpool Bar & Grill Melbourne) in collaboration with QT Hotels Creative Food Director, Robert Marchetti, to satisfy and intrigue the developed palates of discerning foodies. Not one for shying away from sweet treats, QT Melbourne will present the newest purveyor of temptation with the launch of The Cake Shop in which modern-day Marie Antoinette’s can rest their well (red) heeled feet after a full day of shopping. Featuring decadent and freshly made pastries from the patisserie kitchen, alongside a selection of bespoke 5 Senses Coffee, Tippity Teas, Mork Hot Chocolate and on-trend bottled cocktails, The Cake Shop promises to be the perfect pit-stop for an expertly prepared pick-me-up when wandering the city’s shops, or pre-dinner Martini before venturing upstairs to Pascal Bar & Grill. For those looking to experience one of Melbourne’s infamous laneways, Hot Sauce Laneway Bar will do just the trick. Hot Sauce will crank up the cool factor with a series of Korean and Japanese inspired dishes. The intimate bar space accommodating 30 seats is set to be a late night haunt and favourite amongst the Melbourne hospo crowd with the neighbouring Tanto knife store - a high-end Japanese knife lovers’ paradise, selling beautifully crafted 10th generation Japanese knives while providing expert advice and chef knife sharpening facilities launching on September 14.

Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days

HEATHCOTE WINE REGION WORDS BY LAUREN BRUCE

Ancient soils and full bodied wines

Producing wine is no easy task. With so many variables to contend with –

are pruned and other characteristics that make up the character of a wine.

geography, climate, the nature of the wine market, the list goes on – it’s a wonder anyone puts themselves through it.

“It’s hard to put your finger on exactly one reason why wines turn out the way they do,” Flynn says. “A lot of Heathcote wines are single vineyard or

Of course, there are many regions in Australia full of passionate winemakers

from the same area, and you can taste the climactic variation from year to

who are producing some fantastic wines, and Heathcote is no exception.

year. The vintage then becomes important because you see mother nature’s

Making use of its ancient Cambrian soils known for their depth, their red

influence from one year to the next.

hue and their water-holding capacity, Heathcote is producing fantastic, full-

“Take Shiraz for example: [we’re in a region where] we get very low crops,

flavoured wines that are becoming more and more sought after as time

it’s a fairly hard arid soil, dry climate, so the vines don’t over produce.

goes on.

They have very small berries and intense flavour, and because of [those characteristics], we get wines that are very intense in fruit flavour, and they

CEO of the Heathcote Winegrower’s Association and Director of the

have tannin, acidity, a good balance of all those structures, which can give

Heathcote Wine and Food Festival, Chris Earl says that wines coming out of

a wine good longevity. So a lot of Heathcote wines have good cellaring

the Heathcote region have really come into their own in the last 10-15 years

potential. And even though they have good cellaring potential, they can still

– particularly of the Shiraz variety, the region’s main offering.

be enjoyable drinking when they’re younger.”

“Over that period of time, the Heathcote Region has built an amazing reputation on the world stage for its Shiraz,” Earl says.

Flynn says that Heathcote wine enthusiasts often talk about the distinctive tannin in Heathcote wines. Tannin comes out of the skin of the grape and

Greg Flynn, owner of Flynn’s Wines, says the great thing about wine is that

gives the wine its colour; it also gives the drinker a dry puckering sensation

every region has its own characteristics, or “terroir” – a French term meaning

on the side of the mouth. A natural preservative, tannin is also part of what

the totality of the climate, the soil, the location of the vines, how the vines

helps a wine age.

“People often say that Heathcote tannins are finer [than tannins from other

“In the last few years, winemakers of the region have really begun to make a

regions], so they’re not too harsh on the palate. This means you can enjoy

mark with their Mediterranean-style reds as well,” Earl says.

Heathcote wines a little bit earlier on in their life, but they also have great

“This diversity of styles coming out of the region is being loudly applauded

capacity for aging for a greater length of time.”

by the industry and judges of wine shows, and it really says a lot about the degree of innovation and passion of the winemakers coming out of the

Flynn says that the great thing about the wine industry is the variation,

Heathcote region.”

making Heathcote wines, and wines from other regions, entirely unique products.

Flynn is one of these innovative winemakers. He started the Flynn’s Wines winery from scratch 17 years ago, from the building up of the winery

“You could compare Heathcote Shiraz to, for example, Barossa Shiraz and

infrastructure, to the actual winemaking itself.

they will be quite different. That’s what’s brilliant about the whole wine industry - you have this great variation. You can try a Shiraz from any region

While Flynn’s Shiraz is the most popular wine produced at his winery (like

you go to and it will be a little bit different from the next. Wine is one of the

most of the wineries in the region), Flynn’s decision to also plant Sangiovese

few products like that.”

grapes 17 years ago was the beginning of a diverse offering that went

While the region is known for its Shiraz, Earl says in the last decade there

beyond the renowned variety.

has been a rising trend in winemakers experimenting with Mediterraneanstyle wines like Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

“Sangiovese is an Italian variety mainly from Tuscany. At the time we planted the grapes, there was only one other vineyard in the region who had also planted Sangiovese around six months before which we didn’t even know about, so we couldn’t do any research on [how the variety would grow in the region]. So we put in two acres and had a crack. “The Sangiovese is the last to be picked each year. We generally start around the 20th of September, but that depends on mother nature each year and this year, [the grapes are] a few weeks early.” While the Sangiovese is the last to be picked, it also has the longest ripening period. “That’s actually a good thing with wine grapes because that means they have plenty of time to build colour, flavour, reduce acid, build sugar, so that it all becomes nicely balanced,” Flynn says.

Alongside the Shiraz and Sangiovese varieties, Flynn’s Wines also produces

“We’re a very small team at Heathcote Winery, so you have to be a jack of

Vermintino, Viogner and Verdelho wines, as well as other Mediterranean-

all trades,” Dickson says. “We do pretty much the lot at our winery… we go

style varieties that grow well in the area. “We’re also doing other Italian

from vine to bottle because we grow the grapes, we make the wine, we

varieties, other Spanish varieties. It’s just the right climate.”

bottle the wine on site and we label it and sell it at the cellar door. So it’s a whole in-house production.

Flynn says a combination of trend, the climate, and the development of

“It’s nice to be out at the vineyard pruning the vines, then looking after the

complexity in Australian wine lovers’ tastebuds may have influenced the

vines through the growing season, harvesting the grapes and then finally

decision by winemakers in the area to experiment with Mediterranean

selling it and tasting it with our customers and seeing how much they’re

varieties.

enjoying it. It’s very satisfying.”

“10-15 years ago there was a general trend in the wine industry towards

Dickson says that, while he would encourage people to get involved in the

experimenting with alternative varieties. I think Australian wine drinkers

industry, you’ve got to be prepared for some hard work.

started to get more mature and open minded about trying new varieties as well, and that slowly built momentum over time.”

“It’s a fantastic industry [to be involved in], but you’ve gotta be willing to put in the hours. I say to people, if you like the idea of making wine, you

Flynn says that Australia’s wine culture has matured alongside our food

need to write to a winery and ask them if they need any help one year.

culture, which has taken off in the last decade and has seen peoples’ tastes

Go and work a vintage; it will quickly dispel any romantic illusions about

for food mature and expand. So too has peoples’ taste for different varieties

winemaking!” Dickson laughs.

of wine – and food and wine pairings.

“It’s a lot of hard, dirty, sweaty work. And winemaking is about 80 per cent cleaning, which a lot of people aren’t too into! But it is fun, it is satisfying; and

“A lot of these new varieties can match with so much more food than Shiraz.

being a part of a small business in Heathcote, we’re always doing something

With food and wine pairings, you’re looking for that balance; so to find

different,” Dickson says.

something to match a full-bodied Shiraz, you’re looking at a big meat dish,

“You’re either in the vineyard, you’re in the winery, you’re at the cellar door,

like a steak. Whereas these alternative varieties like Sangiovese will go with

you might be down in Melbourne doing a tasting, you might be interstate

a lot of different foods, such as pasta, cheese or seafood.”

promoting your wines. It’s a very diverse, enjoyable role. That said, I probably

“I think we probably deal with the top 10 per cent of wine drinkers – the

wouldn’t be saying I’m enjoying it as much if I was up at 4am looking after

ones who love to visit vineyards, love food, want to see behind the scenes…

the vineyard at minus six this morning!”

the wine drinkers that travel overseas to try wine. Heathcote’s attracting that sort of customer now.”

Like all regions, Heathcote has experienced its fair share of hardship throughout its winemaking history – drought, pests, frost. In the late 19th

Flynn says that while other more commercialised wine regions in Australia

century, a phylloxera outbreak affected vines and required swift eradication

may no longer cater to this type of customer, it’s great that the smaller

to ensure the area was free of the aphid-like insect.

producers of the Heathcote region can provide a more intimate experience for real food and wine lovers.

“A lot of vineyards were wiped out. But the Heathcote region is one of the

“The great thing about the region is, when wine drinkers come to Heathcote,

few in Victoria in the modern era that is phylloxera-free,” Earl says. “The

they’re generally speaking to someone who is involved in the process,

biosecurity [of the region] has to be protected.”

such as the winemaker, while at the cellar door. It’s more of a personalised

Even in a phylloxera-free environment, it’s a constant battle to protect your

experience.”

vineyard. But with innovation and hard work, it’s possible to ensure your vines are progressing as they should be. Frost is another big challenge in the

Heathcote Winery’s Alex Dickson says he’s proud of this authentic

Heathcote area for wine producers, Dickson says.

experience the region can offer. Dickson’s role has developed from starting as a cellar door casual around five years ago, to becoming cellar door

“Frost and drought are our biggest threats in the region, and we’re just in

manager, assistant winemaker, and assistant vineyard manager.

the midst of frost season now,” he says. “[We protect out vines against that]

with sprinkler systems that we have in the vineyard. What happens is, we’ve

A great way to experience the

got weather stations in each vineyard and, basically, they ring our phones

Heathcote

and send us messages when the temperature gets to two degrees, which

attending

gives us time to go out and check the vineyard and the sprinkler systems.

and Food festival, held in October.

“The idea is to basically simulate rain in the vineyard. The water then freezes

This year, the festival will showcase

around the new buds rather than the buds freezing themselves, insulating

around 45 wineries, with tasting

them. If you’ve got access to water and a frost system, it’s the best way to

sessions presented by wine writer

protect your vines.”

Max Allan that will include new

wine the

region

Heathcote

Wine

releases and other varietals of the While it’s obviously a challenging industry, Flynn says that the strong

region that have established great

collaborative culture and sense of community among business owners in

reputations.

Heathcote makes it easier to overcome these challenges. The result is a wonderful product, and a wonderful culture of mutual support.

Flynn, whose winery has been involved in the festival since the

“Working with the local area’s really important because as visitors come to

inaugural event 15 years ago, says

the area, they might go to restaurants to eat out, or maybe buy one of your

that while it’s a fantastic festival for

wines take away from an outlet in Heathcote, rather than come to your cellar

food and wine lovers alike, it’s also really important for the wineries too,

door. Of course we love people

particularly the smaller wineries in the region.

to come to the cellar door to give them that experience, but

“It’s a terrific country festival. The wineries involved, some of them are

we definitely need to support

big, some small. And a lot of the smaller wineries don’t have cellar doors,

the [broader] local area,” Flynn

so for them, the festival is the only place people may be able to try their

says.

wines [in a tasting session environment]. And for us, we make a lot of good connections and see a lot of repeat customers.”

“The

Heathcote

Winegrowers

Association [is made up of]

Regional festivals such as the Heathcote Wine and Food Festival are a

people with local businesses

brilliant way to really get behind the scenes and get stuck into how wine is

who are all keen to see the

produced, and to meet the characters behind the wineries.

area [forge ahead]. So you’re

Earl says celebrating Heathcote’s very passionate winemaking community

all working together. It’s so

is what the Festival is all about.

important [for regional areas] to put forward a united front,

“The winemakers in the Heathcote region are small business people. It’s

because it benefits all of us.”

not the big end of the wine industry. These are wine-loving people who a decade or more ago planted their vines, put passion into every stage of the

Flynn says this is probably more prominent in regional rather than

grape-growing, of the wine production, and then even more passion into

metropolitan areas because of sheer necessity in more isolated environments.

sharing that experience and that love for their craft,” he says.

“You’re often not just involved in regional businesses, but also your broader

“Because it really is a craft. And when you have a conversation with the

community in regional areas. When I used to drop one of my daughters off

Heathcote winemakers, you know the passion is there. And that’s part of

at kinder in the morning, there were four different kids from wine families. I’d

what makes the Heathcote wine region so unique in Australia - it’s a group

chat regularly to the mums and dads who are part of similar organisations

of like-minded winemakers, operating their own businesses, but working

and [understand the challenges of the industry]. And we’ve lent equipment

collectively and celebrating a very exciting wine region.”

to other wineries when they’ve had things break down and stuff like that. It’s just a good way of operating, really.”

RENAISSANCE TOWN Bendigo's Coming Of Age WORDS TIM BAXTER WORDS IMAGES AND IMAGES BY HAYNES & BRUCE GEORGIA HAYNES

My first foray into the Bendigo food scene

Ciancio family, I have no doubt that this was

the super creative Alistair Punshon at the

was as a kid in 1983. My mum would take me

an eye opening introduction to European

helm. Along with The Copper Pot, which

to what can only be described as, a Mecca

cuisine to many locals. A couple of years

went through many highs and lows, and the

of all things Italiano. The Green Olive in Bath

later as a teenager I remember dining with

completely weird and daunting Rechters,

Lane led to my discovery of chicken liver

my parents at Maximes Restaurant run by

these were some of the shining lights in a

pate, marinated vegetables, Scotch eggs

much loved Bendigo hospitality stalwart,

relatively conservative town and time.

and cured meats. Run by the passionate

Carlo Barri, and at The Metropolitan with

I had a late night pizza experience at Clogs Pizza Castle whilst in high school – back then it was a tiny, dark and almost medieval shop that was fun and buzzy, but also quite mysterious and intimidating to a shy teenager. In 1986 the owners bought the butcher shop next door, knocked through and built what we now know to be the Iconic restaurant it is now. By 1988 I was working there and learning how to run a bar. Delighted to be involved in what was undoubtedly the towns first taste of a cosmopolitan styled restaurant. During the 90’s there were a few more highlights; Bar Black Sheep created, in an old car garage workshop in Bull Street allowing John Sheen to introduce us to a new style of fun Americanised food – a style that has now grown to epic and dare I say it, overblown proportions now. The Golden Gully Steakhouse offered us another glimpse at a soon-to-be massive growing trend, as well as The Tonic Lounge Bar was to my mind Bendigo’s first true stand-alone “Bar”. Initially with bowtied waiters lighting cigars and then later you’d

clichéd offerings at the fine diners…but a few

On View is now considered to have one of the

find local D.J. legend Jason Tavener regularly on

gems were slowly being uncovered…In café land

greatest wine offerings of any wine bar in the

the turntables till the wee small hours. Sadly, Lion

we had Deb McAliece offering simple and tasty

country. It could easily be regarded to be ground

Nathan’s ill-fated occupation grab in an attempt

dishes and a decent latte at Café Au Lait. The

zero of the domino effect of businesses that

famous Bazzani family had returned to town and

began to open in Bendigo, break frontiers and

were again running their highly regarded (this

continue to evolve dining and drinking culture.

time eponymously named) Italian restaurant that was once known as The Copper Pot.

Before the decade was out Brent Slade would take over the high end restaurant, The Whirrakee,

A decrepit yet majestic old bank building in View

and continue to push fine dining boundaries.

Street was being eyed off by a local developer.

With hard work and dedication, he eventually

This to me, was the true starting point for the

achieved an Age Good Food Guide Hat for his

town’s progressive food and drink offerings.

refined classical French stylings. Brent is still

Dynamic couple, Mark and Janine Coffey, took

cooking in Bendigo at the re-invented Mr.Beebes.

a huge punt on a style of business just breaking out in Melbourne and other capital cities. A

Darren and Nicole Murphy would take over

to force people to drink their unpopular beers,

lavishly stocked “wine bar” with hundreds upon

and create what is the best Food Store in the

meant that many of the business’ in Bendigo by

hundreds of bottles on offer, in a beautifully

country, BendiGo Wholefoods. I’ve travelled

2000 become quite homogenised, and we were

renovated building, with what would become

widely and have yet to come across a shop

left with minimal variety for much of the decade.

known as the ubiquitous tapas menu. Needless

with the depth and breadth of unique product

to say it took some time to gather traction as the

that they stock, in an environment so filled with

Things got off to a slow start in the new

town was still clinging bravely to its “Pot, Parma

education, health and frivolity. It’s life affirming –

Millennium. There was, of course, all the usual

and Pub” foundations.

to be honest, saying it’s the best in the country is demeaning – it’s actually better. It’s “World

suspects offering generic and casual café fodder, oversized plates of unoriginal offerings

Thankfully for Bendigo, the owners held tight

Class” in the truest sense of those words. Daz

at dozens of local pubs and rather derivative and

during the tough early years, and Wine Bank

was also instrumental in the setting up of the

Clarinet Heaven Cellar Door Music Event – Oct 23rd 2017 Tickets just $10 incl. free glass of wine.

World’s Best Shiraz Top 5

World’s Best Shiraz $50 to $60 category

Cellar door: 10AM to 5PM 77 Shurans Lane Heathcote Vic PH: (03) 5433 3111 www.sanguinewines.com.au info@sanguinewines.com.au

Food Fossickers; our local food network, as well

eclectic and grungy café and vintage apparel

as the Bendigo Community Farmer’s Market

shop, always loaded with a loyal audience

which is now a centerpiece of our local produce

right near the center of town. Greg and Mandy

scene, occurring every month in the CBD.

Edwards opened the wonderful produce focused Edward’s Providore in Strathfieldsaye which was

The Cianco family opened the Epicurean and

later to move to Strathdale. It is equally a great

again, raised the bar for what could be achieved

place for a quick shop for fresh local produce, as

as a regional Delicatessen with its exhaustive

it is for reliable and tasty breakie and lunch.

array of meats, sweets, cheeses and typically quality European products. At the start of

Much loved café The Bendigo Corner Store, (and

2009 The Dispensary Bar and Diner opened

later its sister café, Spring Gully General Store)

in the soon-to-be revived, Chancery Lane. It

proved you don’t need to be in the CBD to do

at The Bendigo Art Gallery in 2012, brought

introduced Bendigo to the world of craft beer,

well – you just need to provide an inviting and

in unprecedented tourism and the spike in

classic cocktail education, gin, spirits and drink

engaging space, consistent home styled cooked

numbers of visitors to the town, unlikely to ever

culture from around the world, not previously

favourites and experimental modern dishes

be repeated (fingers crossed, I’m wrong!). Add

seen in the town before. Within two years of

to that the opening of Percy and Percy – A bang

opening The Dispensary was shortlisted with two

on the money, bright, light and delicious local

other interstate restaurants for Australian Wine

café, whose owner Elisha Bahen is the absolute

List of the Year award in Australian Gourmet

embodiment of perky, jovial and down-to-earth

Traveller. The following year The Age newspaper

friendly that has quickly catapulted the inner

described The Dispensary as “having the best

city café to absolute town favourite.

all-round drinks list in the country”, and only very recently was listed as the Best Regional Beer

At the beginning of 2012 Paul Pitcher and his

venue in Victoria and sevemtj best in Australia

wife Danielle opened The Woodhouse…the slow

by highly regarded, Beer and Brewer magazine.

burn of the Bendigo food scene. This place just gets better and better every year. It is now a

It wasn’t until the current decade when things

alike. Owner Adam Nicoletti’s constant pursuit

Steakhouse par excellence and Bendigo’s busiest

really started to snowball for Bendigo’s dining

of coffee excellence has no doubt got something

restaurant. Among many other accolades and

scene. Riding the wave of slowly but steadily

to do with their success. During this period, the

awards, The Woodhouse recently won the highly

increasing tourism we saw the opening of such

Goldmines Hotel got some well needed love and

regarded Savour Awards for Excellence award

wonderful and quirky cafes like The Old Green

attention from new owners, who have created an

for Best Steakhouse in Victoria/Tasmania. An

Bean where the ever enthusiastic and bubbly

excellent live music and craft beer venue with an

incredible achievement for a regional restaurant.

Zoe, and her fanatical coffee roasting Husband

outdoor area regularly listed in the top 10 beer

I worked with Paul when he was an apprentice

Chris pump out more coffee and meals than

gardens in Australia (yep, that’s right – top 10 in

chef back in the 1980’s at Clogs. I consider him

any café in Bendigo, set to the styling of their

the whole country).

to be a true gentleman of our industry and his dedication to continually investing in his

Landmark, watershed…you name it…2012 was

restaurant, constant improvement to his craft,

probably the biggest year for the Bendigo dining

and offering is exemplary. By the time this article

scene in living memory. We were just getting

comes out he may well just be the owner of

comfortable being near the top of regional

Australia’s Best Steakhouse as he is shortlisted

dining, tourism and general food awareness,

for the final. But just to be considered as one

when The Age published a story anointing

of the very best of his chosen craft in the entire

Bendigo as “Victoria’s Hottest Town”, on the

country is a huge award in itself.

back of a couple of very notable restaurant and café openings and one almighty big Bendigo

Not

long

after

The

Woodhouse

Art Gallery exhibition. It’s fair to say the The

Bendigo got the ultimate one-two punch when

Grace Kelly exhibition, that ran for three months

it welcomed back two much loved chefs in Nick

110 HARGREAVES ST, Bendigo PH: (03) 5442 2997 percyandpercy.com.au FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM @PERCYANDPERCY

opened,

and Sonia Anthony. The combination of Nick’s refined cooking with his colourful, busy and artistic plating has created a maelstrom of foodie excitement in town. Mason’s traditional drink offerings and bright designer setting, combined with Sonia’s deft touch with desserts, aggressive marketing

and

earnest

dedication

the

promotion to our region’s local producers, has created the winning formula that is absolutely bang on trend. They have quickly established themselves as the town’s critical darlings. This year Masons brought home their second Age Good Food Guide Hat in a row. A massive and well deserved achievement. Bendigo is showing no signs of slowing down. In the last couple of years Rocks on Rosalind opened and successfully bridged the gap between the masses who now worship the obligatory dessert platter and those that love a little bling and gold dust added to their experience. A stunning historic

building

transformed, gives

Rocks’

customers a gorgeous backdrop to their wide

Haley Aldred took over the neglected El Gordo

Patisserie opened in the uber cool View Street

ranging menu, whilst their staff add a little “Las

café in Chancery Lane. With their love of all

district, a truly niche “capital city” concept. This

Vegas” styled theatrics to every service. The

things Spanish, natural hospitality smarts and

stunning little business is all about slow roasted

last two years have also seen the man behind

gregarious attitudes, they gave it the spit and

meats in tasty milk buns, with croissants and

Whirrakee re-invent himself, successfully in the

polish it deserved and made it a true contender

other sweet treats expertly made from scratch

same venue but as the funky, refurbished and

for best new café and bar in town. I’ve had their

daily. Local boy Lincoln “wine guy” Riley spent

reinvigorated Mr. Beebes. An eating house of

“Cubano” a few times this year and rate it as one

many years honing his craft in Melbourne and

quality produce-focused smaller plates, classical

of the best sandwiches in Bendigo (it’s “legit” as

will no doubt add some more awesome wine

French cooking techniques and an expanded

the hipsters would say!). Morley’s Emporium also

offerings to the landscape too. The inherent

and interesting drink offering favouring decent

opened in what we locals like to call the “Old

simplicity of Harvest’s quality offerings and their

craft beer, quality spirits and as always, great

Toyworld Building”, and it’s a gem. Run by the

killer focus on their strengths, appears to be a

wines…gets my tick of approval, that’s for sure!

not-for-profit disability support service Radius,

refreshing tonic to the multitude of places who

Morley’s Emporium is a social enterprise project

always feel the need to please everyone. They

Last year we saw old school dedication and

providing work opportunities for those who may

even offer a Redskin Milkshake which my kids

devotion taking a strong lead when Chad and

not be able to find employment in mainstream

tell me is second to none. Get on board now and

organisations. It’s intentionally quirky, without

you’ll be able to tell your friends you were the

ever

first!

being

self-aware

and

just

effuses

downright fun and friendly atmosphere. With solid underpinnings of a cool café with its own

Who’s been keeping score at how many places

sense of humour, selling books, clothes, toys

this regional inland town has that are ranked in

and vinyl LP’s, it is well worth a visit. That our

the absolute upper echelon of their chosen craft,

town can sustain a business like this in 2016 is

on a national level?, Bendigo now punches so far

a testament to our ever diversifying loves and

above its weight, it’s almost criminal – I’m pretty

interests as a modern and progressive regional

sure if we continue to ascend at this rate, there

centre. Kudos to Bendigo!

will be other regional towns, Australia wide out

Just a few months ago Harvest Rotisserie +

for our blood. Bring it on I say…we are ready.

DIRECTORY

INDULGE FINE BELGIAN CHOCOLATES

ROCKS ON ROSALIND

THE WOODHOUSE

Indulge Fine Belgian Chocolates offers a total

Step inside the first bank of the goldfields

The Woodhouse is Bendigo’s only dedicated

and discover a beautiful restaurant, cocktail

steakhouse. Recently awarded Best Steakhouse

bar and a very warm welcome. Overlooking

Victoria/Tasmania in the 2016 Savour Australia

Bendigo’s Rosalind Park and Alexandra

Awards. The menu is vast and famous for our

Fountain, Rocks seamlessly combines big

regionally sourced Charcuterie selection.

indulgent Bendigo experience. The aroma of quality chocolate, freshly ground coffee, the taste of premium chocolate, the sight of stylish furnishing, artwork and the sounds of background music deliver an exceptional multisensory experience for customers. Using only the finest Callebaut chocolate,owner and chocolatier, Hayley Tibbett, produces a unique array of quality artisan chocolates. Indulge has incorporated regional ingredients with chocolate to create a ‘Taste of Bendigo’ range. Let Indulge share our passion and enthusiasm with you on your visit to Bendigo.

with the elegant ambiance of their iconic

In house dry aged Wagyu beef provides

venue. Pre-theatre cocktails, casual lunch in

guests with the ultimate dining experience.

the sunshine, or an intimate foodie escape;

A selection of premium Wagyu, Black Angus

Rocks boasts dinner in the original bank

beef and Berkshire Pork sourced from both

vault and an underground drinking space

local and regional farms.

complete with private booths and velvet

The Woodhouse is a spectacular but rustic

furnishings. Be welcomed like an old friend,

dining experience, with welcoming professional

once you arrive you may never want to

service. Enjoy pre-dinner drinks in front of the

leave. Open for lunch and dinner every day,

open fire, choose a craft beer or a glass of wine

everyone is welcome.

from the extensive wine list chosen to match the menu perfectly.

12 View Street, Bendigo

Shop 26 Fountain Court, Bendigo. Ph: 5441 1770 indulgechocolates@bigpond.com facebook.com.au/indulgefinebelgianchocolates indulgechocolates.com.au

city bar culture and modern casual dining

PH: (03) 5441 2222

101 Williamson Street, Bendigo

rocksonrosalind.com

thewoodhouse.com.au

FACEBOOK: ROCKSonRosalind

FACEBOOK: thewoodhousebendigo

INSTAGRAM: rocksonrosalind

INSTAGRAM: thewoodhousebgo

CUSTOM COFFEES Custom Coffees is regional Victoria’s first coffee roaster and for more than 15 years has been providing wholesale, multi Award Winning coffees to Victorian cafes, restaurants and clubs. Our coffee blends and our three poplar brands - Grata Espresso, Nuova Caffe and Custom Coffees are prominent not only locally, but throughout Melbourne, Regional Victoria and Interstate. sweetness and complexity, created from our rotating stock Roasting in Bendigo, we are fortunate to be both ‘local’,

of approximately 50 varieties of diverse raw coffee beans,

yet within easy reach of most Victorian regions and

ethically sourced from around the world. Not your average

are delighted with the commendation of ‘innovative

roaster!

and exciting’ by Melbourne Café’s and coffee drinkers. We offer the options of Award Winning Single Origin,

165 Strickland Rd, East Bendigo | PH: (03) 5443 9922

Certified Fairtrade, Organic and decaffeinated coffees as

customcoffees.com.au

well as our popular Classic range of coffee blends. Our

FACEBOOK: CustomCoffees

skillfully-crafted blends are well-known for their richness,

INSTAGRAM: custom_coffees

BENDIGO BLOOMS IN SPRING As the warmer days and clear skies appear, 30,000 of Bendigo’s famed tulips open to brighten the beautiful heritage streets until early October. FLAMINGO PARK & BEYOND – JENNY KEE AND LINDA JACKSON

BELVOIR PARK FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

10 August – 6 November Kee and Jackson’s arrival onto the fashion stage in the 1970s with Flamingo Park was distinctively bold, bright and unconventional. Inspired by the Australian landscape, local flora and fauna and Indigenous culture, the collaboration marked the emergence of a unique Australian look. This showcase exhibition brings together a collection of Jenny and Linda’s personal archive, as well as more recent creations including Kee’s dynamic knitwear alongside Jackson’s vibrant paintings on silk.

29 October On Saturday October 29, the normally serene and tranquil surroundings of Belvoir Park Estate, will once again come alive to the sound of nonstop local entertainment, mixed with the mouth watering aromas from a myriad of food vendors, and of course, all accompanied by the celebratory clinking of a wine glass or two.

MATICEVSKI: DARK WONDERLAND 13 August – 20 November (Tuesday – Sunday) International fashion icon Toni Maticevski opens up his archives for an exhibition curated by Bendigo Art Gallery. The designer is renowned for creating pieces that are twisted, draped and structured using contrasting fabric textures and weights, creating a sense of drama and a transformation of the human form. The exhibition includes objects from the designers’ early practice, right through to the Monaco Gown designed for Princess Mary. Image (middle): Toni Maticevski Doona Dress AW 07/08 Photographer – Justin Edward John Smith Image - Australian paper campaign by 3 Deep.

For more events, tickets and short break accommodation packages, freecall the Bendigo Visitor Centre on 1800 813 153 or visit:

www.bendigotourism.com

Attendees can enjoy wine tastings from more than a dozen local vineyards and discover for themselves why the Bendigo region is renowned for its fine wines, boutique ciders and craft beers.

BENDIGO BLUES & ROOTS FESTIVAL 3 – 6 November A four day event of Blues and Roots performances and workshops throughout Bendigo. The brainchild of renowned Bendigo musician and promoter Colin Thompson, the Bendigo Blues and Roots Music Festival enjoyed its inaugural appearance in November 2011. The Festival offers 170 artists across 45 local venues, including the “Blues Tram” a moving music experience not to be missed.

@explorebendigo #explorebendigo SASI 213285

THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

MAKE ME TEA

THERE’S A NEW ORGANIC BUTCHER IN TOWN

Here at Make Me Tea we have a real passion for natural remedies and

Hagen’s Organic Butcher is now open at South Melbourne Market.

unlocking all the benefits that Mother Nature has provided us. Make Me Tea

Started by Royce and Sue Hagen at Prahran Market in 1999, the family-

was created when two friends discovered the healing properties of herbal

operated business is now run by their son Oliver. Hagen’s sources its

tea concoctions and decided they wanted to share them with the world!

meat from the best sustainable and organic producers around Australia.

Our tea is hand blended in Australia from local and imported premium tea

They work closely with their farmers – knowing what they feed the

suppliers. We believe that nature has provided us with everything we need

animals and that they treat them well – so you are guaranteed to be

to maintain our health and nurture our bodies, which is why we only use

buying the highest quality product. They also hand-make all of their

organic tea cultivated without the use of harmful pesticides and chemical

small goods. The new stall includes a classroom where they offer a mix

fertilisers. We support ethical tea sourcing and ensure our tea is produced

of cooking and butchery classes, explaining and demonstrating all the

in a socially responsible way.

different cuts then giving participants some hands-on experience.

Our blends have been developed with the help of a qualified Nutritionist and Naturopath and the herbs in our tea have been researched and proven

Open Wed 8am-4pm, Fri 8am-5pm, Sat & Sun 8am-4pm.

to nourish, heal and support our bodies to good health.

SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU

Shop online - www.makemetea.com Insta - @_makemetea

SHOP ONLINE: WWW.MAKEMETEA.COM INSTAGRAM: @_makemetea

2017 FOODIES’ DIARY: SEASONAL PRODUCE, RECIPES, FESTIVALS AND FARMERS’ MARKETS After another bestselling year in 2016, the much-loved Foodies’ Diary returns in 2017. This stunning diary for food lovers provides inspiration on what to eat and cook based on the best fresh produce available each month of the year. It includes all the features of a good diary as well as beautiful colour photography, over 60 delicious recipes, seasonal food lists, wine tips and a guide to food and wine festivals around Australia. RRP: $34.99 HARDIEGRANT.COM.AU

A FOODIEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GUIDE TO SAN FRANCISCO WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE

San Francisco has gone through various incarnations, that all make up

aquaponic greenhouse, to a sustainable interior design, although their

the vibrant city as it is today. From being known to celebrate the arts

ethics are loud and proud here, it doesn’t get in the way of some fantastic

and creativity, to being the hub of gay pride, to stimulating start ups and

food and creative combinations. The pumpkin seed bisque with crisp sun

becoming tech-central. One thing is clearly apparent in the modern day

choke, Nikita pears, cardamom and lemon oil is rich, smooth and silky,

metropolis: The food scene is bloody fantastic. With applications such as

while the pastured lamb with kale, kohlrabi, lamb fat carrots and Cuban

Yelp, and Trip Advisor, you’re unlikely to find a bad egg (or an overcooked

oregano is tender and impressively flavourful. Would go back.

one), however there is the risk of highly rated restaurants to be an odd

theperennialsf.com

mix of ‘quantity is king’ or somewhat trend driven reviews. Here’s a

@theperennialsf

Melburnian’s perspective, of some of the stand out places to eat and stay in San Francisco.

Bi-rite Creamery Cool down like a cucumber after queuing in the sun for some creamy

Craftsman and Wolves

cones. Bi-Rite Creamery will have a line—two actually. One for ordering,

A boutique bounty of baked goods, Craftsman and Wolves will have

another for ice-cream photography. And how could you not? With vibrant

you umm-ing and ahh-ing over too many tasty choices. Simple and

and intense flavours such as black sesame and boysenberry, you can’t

understated, the fare focuses on minimal ingredients, and quality flavour.

stop at just one scoop. Top tip: Cross the road diagonally and enjoy your

With three locations across San Francisco, the self-touted contemporary

summery treat in the glorious Dolores park, perfect for people watching!

patisserie is a popular pastry pit-stop. We’d recommend something sweet

biritecreamery.com

and something savoury off the constantly changing menu, and if you’re

@biritecreamery

keen to go full Americano, the filter coffee is great, too. craftsman-wolves.com

Sons and Daughters

@craftsmanwolves

Sons & Daughters is definitely on the pricier side, but this tag comes with absolutely ZERO regrets. Decadent is the only way to describe the

Commonwealth

intimate and stylish experience, which comprises of a stunning seven-

Contemporary farm to table dining has never been more impressive—or

course degustation. The wine pairings are unique and uncommon, and the

laid back—than at Commonwealth. This classy and comfortable dining

dishes scream seasonal creativity. As a guest, there’s no way to describe

spot in the Mission District of San Francisco, is where Chef Jason Fox

it other than: you feel special. Special, as in, you’ve been lucky enough to

presents refined and unique flavours with a definite wow factor. A menu

experience a truly delightful culinary moment, and no bloody rain is going

that changes with the seasons, and a heck of a well-thought out wine list

to ruin your parade. A phenomenal dining experience, if you’ve got the

to match, it’s no surprise that Commonwealth is packed out, even on week

cash to spend.

nights. There are A La Carte menu options available, but with the six-course

sonsanddaughterssf.com

tasting starting at $80USD, (add $50 for wine matches) it’s a unique and

@sonsdaughterssf

engaging experience that won’t break the bank. The icing on the cake is that $10 of every tasting menu sold is donated to local charitable initiatives.

Mission cheese

Consciously dine for the common wealth, and indulge in the richness of

Wall to wall with cheesy puns, this cute Fromagerie in the Mission District

food, wine, welcoming hosts, and a darn memorable experience.

is the place to brie. Mission Cheese has multiple cheese flight options,

commonwealthsf.com

charcuterie and other small bites (look out for freshly baked cookies with milk!). The small and casual snack spot is bustling with friendly staff who

The Perennial

are happy to recommend a vino for your vacherin, or a cold brew to pair

Listed in Bon Appetit and GQ as one of America’s Best New Restaurants,

with your camembert.

The Perennial is using a progressive farming ethos to situate itself as

missioncheese.net

one of San Francisco’s most unique contemporary restaurants. From an

@missioncheese

Dandelion Chocolate It’s all about bean to bar at the moment, and Dandelion Chocolate will immerse you in a decadent journey through the origins and techniques that make chocolate one of the best things to exist, ever. Their huge open kitchen is part-factory, where you can watch the workers as they take you through the chocolate making process. Enjoy chocolate flights, pick from the wicked a la carte menu, or take home a treat from their retail range. Positioned in between Mission Cheese and Craftsman and Wolves, we don’t care if you’re stuffed full of pastries and cheese, make Melbourne proud, and save room for chocolate. dandelionchocolate.com @dandelionchocolate Kimpton Buchanan If you’re looking for accommodation that’s a little different from your standard kick-your-feet-up hotel, try out the quirky and cool Kimpton Buchanan in Japantown. Decorated with rich deco furniture, and vibrant yet classy artwork, the feel is one of a boutique, modern day, gentleman’s cigar lounge—without the obnoxious smell or associations of course. The best part is it’s pooch friendly! So even if you’re an international traveller, chances are you’ll run into a furry friend in the lobby for a brief bout of exuberant cuddles. thebuchananhotel.com @kimpton Oddjob Quirky bar Oddjob is not one you’re likely to miss. It sticks out on the street like a vibrantly painted sore thumb. On the inside, it’s all dark wood and classy saloon vibes. The cocktails are stunning and unique creations. From the Honeysuckle Rose with basil vodka, honeysuckle simple, lemon and rose lemonade, to the ironically labelled ‘Shy Creature’ with American gin, white lotus snake oil, white grape, lemon and ylang ylang. Save time to savour the sips here, grab a booth by the generous windows, and relax in the calm and slow paced lounge. oddjobsf.com @oddjobs Axiom Smack bang in the heart of the city: It’s not just a selling proposition for the Axiom. With cable cars right outside the door, the subway down the steps, and Union Square quite literally, on the front step, it’s fact. Other than conveniently located, The Axiom is downright funky, with modernity written all over it. From the hotel information and room service menus on the TV (to go paper free), to the refillable jugs by the water filters on each floor, to the neon pink ‘work it’ sign in the gym; there’s nothing dusty about this diva. axiomhotel.com @axiomhotel Octavia Humble and contemporary cuisine in a classy setting. The standout mention for Octavia is the warm reception from floor staff. Set amongst residential iconic San Francisco architecture in Lower Pacific Heights, Octavia spills it’s warm light out onto a fairly quiet street—but it’s bustling inside. Soft lighting and cosy seating help accent refined

and crafted food. Seasonality is highlighted in the brief but enticing menu, and the wine list is just as elegant as the food. Lookout for unique tastes such as the blueberry ice cream profiteroles. octavia-sf.com @sf_octavia

NAPA VALLEY Napa Valley is the definition of a luxury, indulgent holiday. A brief drive out of San Francisco, and you find yourself amongst wineries, castles and mighty-fine produce. Here’s a few highlights, that are pretty much non-negotiables you need to fit into a day or weekend trip. Bouchon Bakery Thomas Keller, most famously known for The French Laundry (also in Napa), is responsible for this really, really, ridiculously delicious bakery. There are usually queues out the door, but you know it’s going to be good when locals are lining up alongside visitors. Baguettes, cookies, pastries, toffee, macarons, you name it, it’s phenomenal. Keller really takes these baked beauties to the next level. Don’t believe me? This GRAM writer went back twice in a 24 hour period, and I’d put money on it that you will, too! Clearly a recipe for success, you can find iterations of the Bouchon Bakery in New York, Las Vegas and Beverley Hills. thomaskeller.com/bouchonbakeryyountville @bouchon_bakery Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch The Farmstead is the restaurant element of Long Meadow Ranch winery and cattle-ranch. Situated just off the main road, the cuisine is a wonderfully fresh blend of modern flavours with rustic appeal. Wander through the orchards and veggie crops before or after your meal, or really spoil yourself, and try the (highly recommended) chef’s table. You get a guided tour of the crops and estate where you can pick in-season produce, learn about the history of Long Meadow Ranch, and enjoy dining in an intimate setting. The chef will take you through your decadent degustation, of a menu devised that very day—paired with wine, of course! The warm, local asparagus soup with an olive-oil poached egg, spiced yoghurt and citrus, paired with a chardonnay was pretty as a picture, but also one of those dishes that entice you to close your eyes and try to contain the moan. If you’re going to have a meal at one winery in the Napa Valley, make it this one. longmeadowranch.com @lmrwine Oxbow Public Market Oxbow Public Market is the place to go for food and beverage related gifts (to yourself). From chocolate to pasta to spirits. Wine, cheese and ice cream. You name a gourmet item of choice, we’ll tell you to go to the Oxbow Public Market. The market is open seven days a week, and evenings are buzzing, with a food court of restaurants in full swing. Slurp down some oysters or mull some wine over an epic cheeseboard. You’ve got to be quick to find a perch though, especially on Tuesday which is Local’s Night! oxbowpublicmarket.com @oxbowpublicmarket

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CHALAWAN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY GASTROLOGY

New Thai gastrobar Chalawan is a welcomed addition to Smith Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bustling foodie scene. The first Australian outlet from the team behind

For mains we fell in love with the Kanom Jeen Neua, braised black angus

renowned Bangkok venues Hyde and Seek, Peek-A-Boo and Smith, this

beef cheek green curry served with rambutan and Thai rice noodles. Having

vibrant venue, named after the Crocodile King in Thai folklore, delivers an

benefited from being slow braised for 10 hours, the beef cheek fell apart

impeccable menu of contemporary Thai food and drink.

easily with the weight of our spoons. We loved the thin layer of crispy exterior encasing the melt in your mouth morsels of beef. Together with slippery

The ambience is modern and relaxed. Designed by Studio Equator, the

noodles and the luxurious curry, this dish certainly packed a punch in both

beautiful space is anchored by the reptilian central bar covered in scale-

heat and flavour. The addition of rambutan was a masterstroke which added

shaped turquoise tiles, while the vaulted exposed beams down the length

a desirable freshness and sweetness which contrasted beautifully with the

of the dining room draw dinersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; eyes to the Chalawan Crocodile King mural

curry.

on the back wall. Only a few months old, the venue already runs seamless thanks to an all-star

The Khao Soi Gae was similarly moreish. A Northern Thai curry of slow-

team direct from Bangkok, ensuring that all the zest, vibrancy and vigour of

roasted lamb shoulder served over handmade black sticky-rice tagliatelle.

Thai cuisine comes through on every plate.

Again, the meat was cooked beautifully.

We started with the Tom Kha Hoy Shell pan-seared scallops. The scallops

Our favourite savoury course of the night, the Gaeng panang tao hu was

were cooked to perfection and served with crispy lightly fried oyster

an absolute show stopper - featuring two different textures of tofu, beans,

mushrooms in a frothy Tom Kha broth. We loved the light broth which while

mushrooms and earthy wild black rice all laced with beautifully creamy

incredibly flavoursome was subtle enough to allow the natural sweetness of

coconut-centric panang curry. Perfect for vegetarians, or well, anyone really.

the scallops to shine through. It was a thoroughly modern and well curated dish.

Showcasing the versatility of the kitchen, the desserts were, again, delicious.

For sheer gratification the Khanom gluay is sure to please. Think home-

With a menu grounded in authentic Thai flavours paired with modern

made caramalised banana ice cream served with banana chips, banana

techniques, local produce and ingredients, Chalawan pleases with a

brulee, sundried banana and chocolate and nut crumble. For something a

sophisticated and interesting menu unlike any other Thai offering in

bit more interesting, the Kanom Jaak will do the trick - Black glutinous rice

Melbourne.

pudding with Toddy Palm, Thai style granola smoke meringue and coconut ice cream. Just. Yum.

CHALAWAN 102 Smith St, Collingwood

To match the outstanding food menu are the snappy ‘Croctails’, made using

Phone: (03) 9078 9532

premium spirits and featuring house-dehydrated fruit. Nawin Pimolrat,

facebook.com/chalawanmelb

Chalawan’s head bartender, has created an exquisite list of drinks which will take guests straight to the streets of Bangkok. A highlight is the Islander Cobbler with its fusion of Plantation 5 Years, Pavan, Toddy Palm, Passionfruit, Citrus, Mango and Kaffir lime leaves.

HERB ROASTED LEG OF LAMB With hot broad bean and feta dressing PHOTOGRAPHY EMILIE GUELPA

INGREDIENTS

METHOD Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F).

Lamb, feta and herbs are a perfect combination. Try to cook the lamb so it’s still pink in the middle and allow to rest for a good 15

Grind the garlic using a mortar and pestle. Add the herbs and lemon

minutes before carving.

zest and grind to a rough paste. Add the olive oil, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and mix until combined.

2 garlic cloves 2 tablespoons chopped oregano

Rub the herb-and-garlic paste all over the lamb. Place in a deep

2 tablespoons chopped rosemary

roasting tin and roast for 1–11/2 hours. To check if the lamb is done,

2 tablespoons chopped basil

insert a small knife into the centre of the roast. Count to five. If the

Zest of 2 lemons

knife feels warm (tepid), the meat is rare. If it feels bearably hot,

125 ml (4 fl oz/1/2 cup) olive oil

the meat is medium. You’re aiming for medium to medium-rare. If

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

necessary, cook for a further 5 minutes and test again. Cover and rest

1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) lamb leg

for 20 minutes in a warm place before carving.

1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) broad (fava) beans 80 g (23/4 oz/1/2 cup) pitted kalamata olives

Meanwhile, remove the broad beans from their pods and bring a

1 handful of flat-leaf (italian) parsley

large saucepan of water to the boil. Cook the beans for 1 minute, then

1 small handful of mint, roughly torn

drain and refresh under cold water. Remove the pale green skins by

2 tablespoons lemon juice

creating a slit in the skin and pushing the beans through it. Discard

1 teaspoon dijon mustard

the skins.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 100 g (31/2 oz) crumbled feta Toss the broad beans, olives, parsley and mint together in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, mustard and extra-virgin olive oil, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pour into a large frying pan over medium–low heat, add the feta and the broad- bean mixture, and cook gently until just warmed through. Pour the lamb roasting-pan juices into the dressing and stir to combine. Remove from the heat. Recipe extract from

To serve, carve the lamb and top with the hot broad bean and feta

HARVEST: 180 Recipes Through

dressing.

The Seasons. RRP: $29.99 Avalaible from all good bookshops. Celebrate nature’s bounty with Harvest, a sumptuous compendium of 180 recipes throughout the seasons. Accompanied by stunning photographs and evocative watercolor illustrations by Emilie Guelpa, this is everyday eating at its seasonal best.

REVIEWS REVERENCE COFFEE - NIGHT VISION BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

The definition of the word Reverence is having great

You can taste elements of each origin as you drink

respect for someone or something. In the disposable

the coffee and so the name Night Vision is an apt one,

society we live in where everyone is a celebrity and

because while it may be dark, there is a definite sense

social media has made the average person a critic,

of clarity.

it’s very hard to reach our goals and recqxde2weive genuine praise for the work we do. Melbourne is

Three years ago in Little Bourke Street when Nunzio

saturated with coffee roasters, each one trying to get

Vizzini and Nicole Thomson took over an existing cafe

a piece of the action and gain recognition for their

and rebranded it as Lt. Osteria, they also had a clear

efforts, with some like Andreas and Annie Martinu doing

picture of what they wanted to do and how to maintain

it because of their love of the industry and creating a

the clientele without losing them to other cafes in the

memorable experience through specialty coffee and

area. They knew serving a coffee like Night Vision would

their brand Reverence. The siblings, already with years

be a crowd pleaser and that Reverence as company

of experience between them, opened their own cafe in

would support them through this time of transition.

Ascot Vale in 2011, roasting onsite and expanding next

Both partners came from a finance background in law

door as they became busier, eventually having to move

and accounting, so the Martinu siblings’ attention to

premises to keep up with the demand. In early 2017

detail, commitment to service and sense of care was

they look forward to opening an even larger facility with

appreciated. Serving modern Australian food with an

two roasters, climate controlled green bean warehouse,

Italian touch, the coffee works perfectly and is prepared

cupping lab and barista training centre, taking the

on a stunning Victoria Arduino Black Eagle custom

company into the next stage of its journey.

finished in black butt veneer by Dan from Specht Design. Nunzio and Nicole also like a well constructed

Everything Reverence does is about respect for the

story, believing that if you start with a quality product,

coffee and the origins of the beans themselves. The

prepare it properly on good equipment and give the

more you understand the provenance, the better the

customer a complete experience, it’s the recipe for a

end result will be. It’s like starting a story, forgetting

happy ending.

a few chapters and then expecting the end to make sense. What you taste in the cup is that attention to

Respect may sadly be out of fashion, but Reverence is

detail and possibly coffee that has been overlooked

on the scene and gaining popularity, so head to one of

by other roasters. Andreas, who has judged barista

these places and improve your Night Vision with a cup

competitions believes that if you make the effort to

of their coffee -

source individual and interesting beans and blend them well, you can come up with something amazing, like their very popular Night Vision. The current version contains beans from El Salvador, Colombia, Guatemala, Kenya and Papua New Guinea and while it is their punchiest blend, it is far from one dimensional.

Lt. Osteria - TG25 550 Bourke St CBD (entrance on Lt. Bourke) Dana Patisserie - 175 Carlisle St Balaclava Espresso 3094 - 44 Were St Montmorency Espresso Room - 410 High St Northcote Willis & Anderson - 1 Anderson St Yarraville

BAR/D UP Video Feature - Loretta’s - Fitzroy North In collaboration with Buffalo Trace Bourbon Australia When Bluebonnet Barbecue re-emerged at The

on using fresh local ingredients in the beverages and

North Fitzroy Star after a fire that closed the original

Oscar has also taken to bottling his own bootleg

Collingwood venue, it only seemed fitting that Chris

tinctures including a delicious cumquat brandy used in

Terlikar decided to call the front bar Loretta’s after

some of the beverages he prepares. Ten beers and ales

the burner which started the blaze. One could say if

feature on rotating taps and you’re welcome to order

it wasn’t for that fateful day, Loretta’s may never have

food from next door to eat up at the bar.

taken shape and there would be one less amazing bar Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video.

in Melbourne....and we couldn’t have that now could

If you enjoy going to a reliable place where you get a

we?

bit of theatre and a drinks list that’s considered and

Specialising in fine American and Australian whiskies,

humorous, you won’t be disappointed with Loretta’s,

the bar is run by Oscar Eastman (ex. Eau-de-Vie) who

a local that’s emerged from the flames of tragedy,

is passionate about celebrating seasonal produce

bringing with it warmth and a spark of ingenuity.

and has created some very tongue in cheek libations with a few nods to the US and Aussie elections, and candidates that are equally dramatic in presentation, but a whole lot more palatable. There is an emphasis

LORETTA’S 35 St George’s Road South (03) 9629 9921 bluebonnetbbq.com.au

S.C.PANNELL AROMATICO 2015 Adelaide Hills, South Australia - RRP: $28 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO Have you ever gone to an Asian restaurant, ordered or

I was previously not a big fan of Gewurztraminer

BYO’d a white wine you normally enjoy and yet found

wines. Prior examples had been too bubblegum-like in

it bland when accompanied with the food? This is

flavour so I would intentionally steer clear from them

often the problem with cuisine that has exotic flavours

on a wine list. This version has made me reconsider

and spices which can dumb down the flavours of a

and has everything going for it and works perfectly

normally flavoursome wine. In cases like this, it is best

when trying to match that more complicated dish.

to marry strong flavours in wine with that of your food, or balance the dish’s spiciness with a little sweetness

Stockists: Direct from the S.C Pannell website/

in the wine.

cellar door or check at your local independent wine merchant.

Introducing

Aromatico

from

S.C.Pannell

the

Adelaide Hills. This is a considered blend by winemaker Stephen Pannell of predominantly Gewurztraminer followed by a little Riesling and Pinot Gris. The former provides the exotic aromatics of lychee, strawberry and native frangipani, the Riesling balances the acidity and the Pinot Gris offers a roundness and balance to the overall wine.

STOCKADE 8BIT INDIA PALE ALE WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON When a brand is born from one of the biggest

note which provides a subtle fruit salad sensation. At

contract brewers in Australia (Brewpack), some beer

80 IBU’s, it’s ticks the bitterness box but thankfully,

lovers tend to pigeon hole a beer before they’ve even

it’s well balanced and not overpowering. At $22 for a

opened the bottle. Others would consider it a real skill

6-pack, the price is right too.

for someone to replicate another brewer’s beer so well that the drinker gets the same experience.

Check out 8bit IPA and the rest of the Stockade range at good beer venues and bottles shops around

Based in Smeaton Grange, around 60 kilometres

Melbourne, Bendigo and Ballarat.

southwest of Sydney, Stockade Brew Co is the hero label for Brewpack’s Szpitalaks family and first hit shelves around NSW in late 2015. Their beers have benefitted from the company’s large arsenal of brewing weapons and distribution contacts so while some of you may not have heard or seen Stockade around, you will very soon. Now I’m not one to commit too early when sampling a new brewery’s range given most

OLD WIVES ALES – HAIR OF THE DOG XPA ABV: 6.5% Style: American West Coast IPA Serving Temp: 4-6 degrees Food pairing: Spicy Mexican Beef Fajitas Origin: Sydney, New South Wales Price (RRP): $22 for a 6 pack x 330ml Buy it here: www.stockadebrewco.com.au

experience a few hiccups in their early days. However, I’m more than happy to admit that Stockade’s 8bit IPA is a very drinkable and enjoyable beer. The hop profile is a magnificent blend of traditional US hops Cascade and Citra with some Aussie Galaxy in there to add a tropical hit to the West Coast piney goodness. The aroma has an intoxicating toffee, sweet

OUT AND ABOUT

OYSTER FRENZY #13 PHOTOGRAPHY: RIck Liston

QT OPENING PHOTOGRAPHY: Meg Osborne and Lauren Bruce

Melbourne’s longest running all-you-can-eat oyster frenzy returned for its thirteenth instalment - and there’s nothing unlucky about it (except if you missed out on tickets)

The hotly anticipated launch of the designer hotel QT Melbourne brought four vibrant additions to the city’s famed hospitality scene: Pascale Bar & Grill; The Cake Shop; and Hot Sauce Laneway Bar.

THE DIARY

8 - 9 October, 2016

SHIRAZ HEAVEN HEATHCOTE WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL Heathcote Showgrounds - Caldwell St & Chauncey St, Heathcote

Spoil yourself in October with a weekend in Shiraz Heaven at the 2016 Heathcote Wine and Food Festival. Get your friends together to share in the excitement of the Heathcote region’s famous full-bodied shiraz and exciting alternative varieties. AccommodationFor accommodation in the Heathcote district – Visit www. heathcote.org.au for accommodation options or phone the Heathcote Visitor Information Centre on 5433 3121.For accommodation in the Bendigo region Visit www.bendigotourism.com for accommodation options or phone Bendigo Visitor Information Centre on freecall 1800 813 153. Please note: NO dogs or other animals, NO BYO alcohol heathcotewinegrowers.com.au/festival

19 October, 2016

KNOW YOUR BOTANICALS WITH FOUR PILLARS GIN Circa, The Prince, 2 Acland Street, St Kilda

Spring is in the air, and so is our love affair with Four Pillars Gin. The Healesville-based distillery returns to Circa for an exclusive soiree, perfect for the gin enthusiast. Held in Circa’s Private Dining Room, the dinner affair will be hosted by Four Pillar’s distiller Cameron MacKenzie, alongside brand ambassador and bartender-at-large, Sam Ng. Each guest will be treated to four spring-inspired custom cocktails, matched with a menu of unique and delicate flavours by Circa Head Chef, Rhys Blackley. $130 | 4 courses with matched gin by Four Pillars Gin Bookings: events@circa.com.au

15 October 2016

20 October 2016

Otway Estate - 10 Hoveys Road, Barongarook VIC

Caterina’s Cucina e Bar, 221 Queen Street, Melbourne

Join us at Otway Oktoberfest 2016 for a true celebration of craft beer! This year featuring ten different craft breweries from the Otways, the Great Ocean Road and surrounding regions!

This unique celebration of Nebbiolo, Barolo and Barbaresco is a masterclass not to be missed as it features the best examples of these wines currently available in Australia alongside matching morsels of food. Wine commentator Jane Faulkner is once again returning to co-host alongside winemaker Joel Pizzini. Jane’s passion, knowledge and enthusiasm for Italian wine varieties is unsurpassed by others in our industry in Australia. Jane will ensure robust and convivial conversation is had around the table.

OTWAY OKTOBERFEST 26 October, 2016 SUPERNORMAL BEER PONG ESSENTIALS 180 Flinders Lane, Melbourne

Calling all ping pong playas’! To celebrate the start of Good Food Month, Supernormal are clearing away their dining tables and chairs to make way for Melbourne’s first ever restaurant table tennis party. A night of balls, beers, bao, BBQ, beats and the best of the best. On Wednesday 26 October, table tennis enthusiasts can pong and party into the night in the Supernormal leisure arena; complete with ping pong tables, flowing beer, dancing and specially crafted cocktails. Flying in especially for the event, Korean Bao Queen, May Chow (of Little Bao fame) will create a one-off menu in collaboration with Andrew McConnell and Supernormal’s Head Chef, Perry Schagen. Nobody will go hungry between matches; Chow will be on the bao (and snacks) served throughout the night, whilst the local crew fire up the yakitori grill for a BBQ - Supernormal style. Rio Olympian Melissa Tapper will be in attendance, competing in an exhibition match presented by Table Tennis Victoria. For the rest of the evening, attendees can take one another in matches refereed by the Supernormal ball boys and girls (in their finest tennis whites). Local DJs will hit the decks and cast projections on the walls upstairs, and for those not cheering on the table tennis from the sidelines, you can belt out your best anthems downstairs on the brand new karaoke system in the private dining room. Sitting courtside calls for Pimms and gin, and between rounds of Asahi imported directly from Japan, Supernormal’s beverage officials will be serving three new cocktails created especially for the event.

Now in its ninth year, Otway Oktobefest is held at Otway Estate Winery and Brewery, ten minutes south of Colac. It’s a fantastic day out and an ideal opportunity to get together with friends and enjoy a relaxing day filled with heaps of great activities. There’ll be lots of delicious Bavarian food, brewery tours, Talk & Taste masterclasses, a yodelling competition, slap dancing, prizes for best dressed and heaps of other fun things to keep you entertained.

PIZZINI PRESENTS NEBBIOLO

6pm-8pm $230 per person Bookings essential PIZZINI.COM.AU

This year we’re also offering a Home Brewers Competition as part of Otway Oktoberfest, where avid home brewers can submit their brews and have them judged by a panel of industry professionals. We’re also offering fantastic prizes valued at over $500. Bus transfers to Otway Estate will be available from Colac, Gellibrand, Lavers Hill, Forrest and Apollo Bay. If you’re coming from Melbourne, Geelong or Warrnambool, V/Line trains will take you to Colac station.

20 October 2016

PIZZINI PRESENTS NEBBIOLO Nobu - Crown Towers 8 Whiteman St Southbank

Don’t forget to enter the Lucky Ticket Prize Tickets for this one-off Good Food Month event are strictly limited, so bookings are essential. Supernormal Beer Pong Essentials 6.00pm – 10.00pm Wednesday October 26, 2017 Supernormal Restaurant 180 Finders Lane, Melbourne Tickets $95.00pp, includes food for the duration of the event and four drink tokens Bookings via Eventbrite or contacting the restaurant +61 3 9650 8688 supernormal.net.au

draw valued over $150. You must enter the promotional code you’ve seen advertised at the final stage when booking your ticket. This box will be titled: ‘ Gift/Promotion Code ‘. Entry into this draw will not be accepted on the day. Bookings essential PRICKLYMOSES.COM.AU

Crown presents a series of exquisite menus perfectly matched to the notes of spectacular Australian wines at our award-winning restaurants Nobu, Silks and Bistro Guillaume. Select from five or six courses as you taste your way through each enchanting pairing with a winemaker to guide you through the delicate flavours. Menu: 6 courses with matched wines Price: $395 per person CROWNMELBOURNE.COM.AU