GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 67 FREE
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CONTENTS EATING OUT
INTERVIEW
TAKE YOUR PICKETT Pickett’s Deli and Rotisserie Megan Osborne
ANDREW McCONNELL Lauren Bruce
12
14
RECIPE
REGULARS
PAN-FRIED PEPPERS WITH
CONTRIBUTORS
4
CRISPY GARLIC
NEWLY OPENED
6
AROUND THE TRAPS
Shannon Martinez and Mo Wyse THE GLASS DEN Lisa Holmen
28
A JOURNEY TO THE HIDDEN SEA
GRAM GUIDE COFFEE IN NEW YORK Lisa Holmen
Smith and Daughters
OUT OF TOWN Dean Schmideg
20
30
THINGS WE LOVE
7 18
REVIEWS
32
OUT AND ABOUT
34
THE DIARY
35
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ON THE COVER: PLUM A plum is a fruit of the subgenus Prunus of the genus Prunus. The subgenus is distinguished from other subgenera (peaches, cherries, bird cherries) in the shoots having terminal bud and solitary side buds (not clustered), the flowers in groups of one to five together on short stems, and the fruit having a groove running down one side and a smooth stone (or pit). Mature plum fruit may have a dusty-white waxy coating that gives them a glaucous appearance. This is an epicuticular wax coating and is known as “wax bloom”. Dried plum fruits are called dried plums or prunes, although prunes are a distinct type of plum, and may have antedated the fruits now commonly known as plums. (Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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Jess Hourigan
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au
Lauren Bruce
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS
LAUREN BRUCE
MEGAN OSBORNE
Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
LISA HOLMEN
LA DONNA DEL VINO
After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this
lisaeatsworld.com
with her husband Wootten.
TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
ladonnadelvino.com
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb INSTAGRAM: dsimages / bardupmelb TWITTER: imagesDS / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
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NOW OPEN
A HEREFORD BEEFSTOUW
JETHRO CANTEEN OPENED: September 2016 Having found itself an unlikely home in an old medical centre near Swan Street, Jethro Canteen is an exciting new addition to Richmond’s exploding scene. Located at the perfect junction of city life, sporting precincts, music venues and residential and commercial businesses, this modern café, with a strong emphasis on quality coffee and a ‘back to basics’ approach, is going be a trailblazer. Former head chef and previous co-owner of the café Merchants Guild, Paul Davies, has come on board as head chef, and brings with him a wealth of experience and a unique methodology when it comes to the menu, putting a nostalgic twist on old favourites and playing with stimulating new ideas. The café will soon feature two menus: one for hearty take home food, and the current in-store menu that sports more experimental options. 385-389 BURNLEY STREET, RICHMOND instagram.com/jethrocanteen
NINETEENFORTY OPENED: October 2016 Victoria’s heritage listed cinema, The Rivoli, celebrated the opening of its newest addition, nineteenforty on Friday 16 September. The official launch of the rooftop bar saw guests spoiled with specially made Gin inspired cocktails and delicious canapés, whilst being entertained by Australia’s best-loved jazz vocalist, Hetty Kate Jazz. Offering expansive views of Camberwell and Hawthorn, the intimate space boasts a sophisticated yet retro atmosphere which celebrates the art deco architecture and history of the cinema. Guests can enjoy sipping on a range of delicious vintage cocktails, whilst enjoying a versatile grazing menu. nineteenforty is the perfect destination for a drink before or after your movie. Patrons are welcome to enjoy nineteenforty from 5:30pm on weekdays and from 2pm on weekends, subject to weather. 200 CAMBERWELL ROAD, HAWTHORN EAST
HANOI HANNAH PIZZA RELIGION OPENED: September 2016 Six years in the making, chefs Matt Hunter and Kris Bailey, alongside Geoff Bainbridge, co-founder of Grill’d, have opened their third restaurant in Armadale. Pizza Religion disciple of four years, Byron Smith, is heading up the newest store. The all round good guy / pizza guy is ensuring the restaurant has its own character, yet stays true to the Pizza Religion brand. 20 BEATTY AVE, ARMADALE pizzareligion.com.au facebook.com/pizzareligion
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OPENED: October 25, 2016 Fans of popular Vietnamese hawker-bar, Hanoi Hannah, will be thrilled to learn that a second venue by the same name is confirmed to open in Elsternwick in October. Ideally located opposite the train station and across the road from the Classic Cinema, in the spot that once housed the Artful Dodger cafe, the hotspot will serve an almost identical menu to that of its hip Windsor twin. The venue is the fifth for the owners in as many years (including Saigon Sally, Tokyo Tina and Hanoi Hannah Express Lane) but their first venture out of the 3181 postcode, which they have made their mark on. 267 GLEN HUNTLY ROAD, ELSTENWICK hanoihannah.com.au
OPENED: October 2016 Melbourne’s urban heartland is now home to a fresh, Nordic inspired steakhouse - A Hereford Beefstouw in Duckboard Place. Nestled amidst cobblestones and street art, A Hereford Beefstouw will offer a relaxed Nordic style menu that celebrates high quality steak in a Danish designed setting. Owner and Dry Ageing Specialist Tim Burvill said that while ‘in house’ Grass Fed Dry Aged Beef will be central, seasonal cool climate produce and wholesome eating will feature throughout the menu, spearheaded by Head Chef Daniel Groom. “Creating a Danish-designed venue from pretty much the ground up we want to reflect that - embracing heritage, design and great quality of beef in a relaxed Nordic way. With Hatted/Rosette experience across Melbourne, Sydney, London, plus having lived and worked in Denmark, Daniel is a great fit for the team. I’m pretty excited about the direction he is taking things,” Tim Burvill said. “Our own dry aged beef will be the hero, raised on grass in the ‘Green Triangle’ of South West Victoria and South East South Australia, including Herefords from our family farm near Lucindale in South Australia’s Coonawarra region. Choice cuts are dry aged for between 40 to 100 days in our state of the art facility in the Adelaide Hills, then cooked simply and with restraint by our chefs.” “Being located in one of Melbourne’s unassuming, culinary-rich laneways is a great fit for us and we’re really happy with the way things are coming together”, Tim Burvill said. In preparing to open A Hereford Beefstouw Melbourne, Tim Burvill, with his Denmark based partner Lars Damgaard have completely reinvented a tired inner city former office space. Many of the A Hereford Beefstouw family of designers and artisans were in Melbourne for the build, which includes everything from lighting and cabinetry to tables, plates and cutlery. 22 DUCKBOARD PLACE, HAWTHORN EAST facebook.com/HerefordMelbourne
AROUND THE TRAPS THE FISH & BURGER CO CELEBRATES FIRST BIRTHDAY WITH BURGER EATING COMPETITION AND FREE BURGERS! To celebrate its first birthday, Doncaster’s prized burger
Proceeds of the competition will go to Doncare – Doncaster
and shake eatery, The Fish & Burger Co will be hosting a
Community Care and Counselling Centre which services
burger eating competition and giving away free Ol’ School
include counselling, social support, opportunity shops and
Cheeseburgers to the first 100 customers at 1pm on Saturday
domestic violence support.
12 November.
The competition will be hosted by Melbourne burgerhead,
Participants of the burger eating competition will have to
Quappz
eat a gigantic, 1kg beef burger complete with crispy bacon,
Melbourne Food Baby (37k Instagram followers).
American cheddar, lettuce, Spanish onion, pickles, ketchup,
The competition will start at 3pm sharp on Saturday 12
mustard and mayo, and wash it down with a special 750mL
November, at The Fish & Burger Co located at 1001 Doncaster
Rocky Road Super Shake. The fastest time wins.
Rd, Doncaster East, VIC, 3109. Ample rear parking is available.
(30k
followers)
and
expert
foodie,
The winner will receive a burger a month for a whole year and a branded The Fish & Burger Co t-shirt. All entrants will receive
For more info visit
a branded The Fish & Burger Co t-shirt.
FACEBOOK.COM/EVENTS/1074936175947775/
BEER FEST ANNOUNCES BIG CHANGES FOR 5TH ANNUAL EVENT Geelong’s Great Australian Beer Festival (GABF) will
and the brewer’s keg rolling competition, held out on the
celebrate its 5th anniversary with organisers this month
racing track, will expand to include festival goers who can
announcing exciting changes when it returns to the Geelong
participate in a variety of themed races.
Racecourse on February 18, 2017. “…GABF is not only a smorgasbord of over 200 beers and Inspired by the fast-growing craft brewing industry, GABF
ciders, it’s an experience designed to stimulate more than
begun in 2013 as a celebration of mostly local and state-
just tastebuds,” festival director Michael Ward said.
wide breweries. Today the home-grown festival attracts over 5000 beer lovers and has brewers attend from all over
“There’s interactive seminars, live music across three stages,
the country.
beer cabaret, carnival DJs food trucks, heaps of BBQs; it’s just a great social event, a real celebration.”
Organisers are quick to point out that while the event is primarily a beer tasting and appreciation event, it is also
As in previous years, a series of free seminars hosted by
effectively Geelong’s only live music festival. Next year
industry experts will be held during the day with beer lovers
GABF will feature three stages and the music line-up will
having the opportunity to meet and mingle with the brains
feature nationally recognised acts including The Potbelleez
behind the brands.
and Richard Clapton. GABF.COM.AU
Other changes for the festival include a designated international beer hall with brews from around the world available to taste. A fully inclusive VIP area has been added
win
of
$500 south melbourne Market Vouchers
For the chance to WIN visit
southmelbournemarket.com.au or complete an entry form in the Market
Wed Fri Sat Sun
8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
TAKE YOUR PICKETT Melbourne Chef and Restauranteur, Scott Pickett opens his fourth eatery: Pickett’s Deli and Rotisserie. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE
Scott Pickett has graduated from an unassuming but creative young chef
I was a chef de partie.’ He tells us, which is where he cooked just a section,
who opened up a modest restaurant in Northcote, to being a well known
such as a sauce, or the meat. ‘I was a saucier for many years,’ he says, ‘and
face in the hospitality scene and having four popular Melbourne restaurants
just that pure freedom of the entire focus of my life, just on the sauce or
(and two chefs hats) to his name. The recently opened Pickett’s Deli and
on the meat… Everyday, 100 for lunch 100 for dinner and just being in the
Rotisserie is the latest of the bunch, offering a casual, all-day communal
shit up to your eyeballs, just living and breathing it and it’s all about the
eatery that in it’s first month is already bustling.
sauce and the meat. That was probably as a pure cook, my favourite time.’
Pickett is one of those people who found the industry he wanted to be in,
With the countless responsibilities of owning and operating four
and hasn’t looked back since. ‘Everyone’s got their thing,’ he says. ‘Some
restaurants, Pickett admits that even though his role has changed a lot,
people find it early on in life, and some people search for it all their lives
he still finds it difficult to let go of having that one focus in the kitchen;
and never find it. But I found mine at fourteen. The first day I stepped
admitting that he taps into it sometimes.
into the kitchen.’ Working under the wing of many impressive chefs, and earned his stripes climbing the ranks, Pickett tells us; ‘I’ve loved every
Once he’d made his way up the ladder working for others, Pickett made
single minute of it since.’
the decision to open Estelle after working at The Point for six years, and having earned two chef’s hats three years in a row. He’d simply reached
Having advanced from apprentice all the way to owner, operator, and chef
a point in his career where it was time to work for himself, rather than for
of four restaurants, Pickett has seen every angle of the kitchen. So what
someone else. A period that he thinks most chefs come to at some stage.
was the juiciest cut? ‘My favourite time as I look back, was probably when
‘It was time to do my own thing’, he says.
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Choosing Northcote as the location to open Estelle in 2011 was derived
Hopefully he’ll have some time, but right now his hands are probably a
from a few factors: Firstly, Pickett lived in Fairfeld and loved the suburb
little more full than normal, with the recent deli and rotisserie opening
of Northcote. He also didn’t want the commute from Fairfield to the city.
right alongside the Queen Victoria Market—which was a culmination of
‘I could never get a park on High Street so there must be people here,’
bringing a new concept to his repertoire. He describes the differences of
he tells us, which as a chef naturally led to the question; ‘where do they
each of his restaurants, and how the casual eatery will bring something
eat?’ Decision made, bringing Estelle to High Street was Pickett’s attempt
new to the table. ‘ESP is a seven-course tasting menu with two hats, next
(which was successful, in this professional-eater’s humble opinion) to
to the Bistro, [which is] local, drop in, a la carte, and then Saint Crispin sort
become the best restaurant on the street.
of slots in between. I wanted something that was accessible to everybody all the time. A place that was fun, that was tasty, that was market driven…
With only 30 indoors seats, the reputation they gained for a great tasting
And I wanted something based around the rotisserie.’
menu, originated from a purely economical tactic. Pickett tells us of Estelle’s first month serving a la carte, and a table of eight ladies sharing
Knowing more than few characters in the industry, he mused over the
two charcuterie boards and a glass of wine each, averaging a spend of
fact that kebabs, souvlakis and hamburgers were already being done
$23 per head on a Friday night. He remembers thinking (after the casual
by ‘the boys’. Having a lot of experience roasting meat and running a
expletives); ‘If this happens every Friday night, we’re going to be broke.’
rotisserie, Pickett tells us that a lot of influence for the new joint came
The set menus came about as a way of survival, guaranteeing a cost per
from working under Philippe Mouchel. That and; ‘I’ve always loved
head for the financial viability of the business. But the challenge was to
roasted meats’. Of course.
make sure people were happy with what they got. ‘I wanted to offer bang for buck and value for money, while still doing smaller plates and precision
Philippe Mouchel was a mentor to Pickett in the early days of his career,
dishes’ he says. For something that started off based around economy,
back in ’94 when the young Aussie was only nineteen. Having recently
the degustation option at Estelle became so popular so that when ESP
just open Philippe in Melbourne, Pickett tells us he’s still in contact with
opened in 2015, Pickett took the degustation dining next door, and kept
his mentor, and now very good friend: ‘I asked him for a Rum Baba recipe
the Bistro as it was originally intended; ‘just a really good restaurant’.
last week, because I wanted to put Rum Baba on the menu at the Deli and he emailed it to me so it’s on the menu as Philippe’s Rum Baba.’ Pickett
Not one to beat around the bush, from his first restaurant Pickett went
laughs, ‘I sent him a picture and said “Chef thank you for the recipe it
on to open Saint Crispin in 2014 with former colleague Joe Grbac. Having
worked very well,” and he [Mouchel] goes, “They all work very well Scotty,
been in the market for a second establishment, once the duo had decided
of course.”’ Although Pickett’s faux French accent translates the story
on something, six days later they found the place, it was purchased four
much better in real life.
days after that, and doors opened four weeks later. That same year Pickett was nominated Chef of the Year, and just in case you think he was juggling
With an interior design by Hirsch Bedner, Pickett’s Deli and Rotisserie
too many hot plates, he released a cookbook-cum-autobiography that
features a large communal table, floor to ceiling shelves filled with specially
year, too.
curated wine and gourmet ingredients such as Spanish anchovies, French wine and specialty oils and dressings. The clientele varies from those
You may have seen him on television, or at his guest appearances (think
coming in for a roast chicken takeaway, just popping by for the (already
Starlight Foundation), because that’s just the kind of bloke he is. On top
popular) pretzel and soft serve, to people that sit down and order six
of opening Pickett’s Deli and Rotisserie in September this year, he also ran
things. He’s proud that it’s very casual, and can cater for pretty much
an Estelle pop-up at the Caulfield Cup—stating there’s ‘a lot of prep’ for
any type of customer, and obviously the fact that: ‘Hopefully we’ve got
500 heads. ‘It’s not like I’m working, I’m just doing what I love.’ He laughs.
Melbourne’s best beef roll.’ We haven’t tried the beef roll, however the
He states that his ethos has changed quite a bit since he was a young chef,
prawn bolognese and the steak tartare with quail egg gel is worth more
when it revolved mostly around ‘cook hard, work hard, play hard.’ When
than a few return visits.
asked what he might, in the future, reflect upon this moment in time he states candidly: ‘Sometimes I think I don’t stop and recognise where I’m
Dukes coffee makes the menu at this corner hot spot, even though all of
at in my life in the industry and in my career at certain times, and that I
Pickett’s other restaurants use Vittoria and have a great relationship with
should maybe enjoy it a little bit more. And enjoy the people around me a
them. The need to compete with Market Lane and St Ali in the new inner
little bit more. Take a bit more time for that.’
city location, required a Melbourne specialty coffee brand.
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‘We drank a lot of coffee, we spoke to a lot of people.’ Pickett tells us. They
He says you need to start at the beginning, with the basics—across the
had used Dukes in the early days of Estelle, and so were familiar with the
kitchen to front of house. From warm smiles and polite service, to proper
team. ‘They’re great boys, their ethos fits ours. They’re just around the
seasoning, quality, marriage of flavours, temperature and environment. ‘If
corner and they’ve probably scaled and refined their operation a bit over
you do all the basics really well, then you give yourself the best opportunity
the last few years, so I thought it was a really good fit.’
to build and leverage off that.’ If you’ve been lucky enough to dine at one of Pickett’s establishments, you will have noticed that what may seem
Most of the offering is made in house, aside from bread and pastries
simple (like say, a serving of roast lamb with vegetables), is actually artfully
which hail from Cobb Lane. There’s no cool room, and Pickett tells us
created with care, precision and somehow magically better than what
they don’t need one. ‘Everything comes in in the morning. We either get
your preconceptions told you it would be. It’s clear this is a man who takes
it from the market or from our suppliers, and we cook it, and it goes.’
food very seriously, and is more than a little passionate about sharing his
When he first showed the team the space, they said to him; ‘Chef, there’s
expertise with others (a fact we and our tastebuds are very thankful for).
no cool room’, to which Pickett proceeded to open the back door, gesture
‘We’re driven by technique and flavour.’ Sums up Pickett. ‘We’re not really
at the Queen Victoria Markets and tell them that was their cool room (in
driven by bells and whistles.’ A fact that is apparent not just about the
slightly more colourful language).
dining destinations, but about Scott Pickett himself.
Most of the ingredients are sourced locally, with the exception of imported Jamon Iberico and other specialty items. ’We just look at best products and what we can do, and if there is an opportunity to showcase Victorian produce that’s as good if not better, then we do that.’ Pickett says that being located on the very doorstep of the market is a great reminder of seasonality. Having grown up on a farm, he already has a heightened awareness of what’s around him in terms of seasonal produce, but making his way through the market is more than just knowing tomatoes are a summer thing. ‘Sometimes if I do get caught up in the kitchen, then I can always come to the market to see what’s around, what inspires, when citrus is in. That link with the seasonality is going to be heavily reflected with what we do.’ While Australia’s understanding of seasonality and buying market fresh is improving, there’s good and bad about the Australian food industry in Pickett’s opinion. ‘I think we could improve the understanding of what things cost. I think food in Australia is really cheap.’ He says, comparing the cost of food compared to other living, housing and wage increases with the likes of Europe or America. That said, he believes Australia is doing well on the world scale, and starting to be recognised as the place to be in the food industry. ‘I think that’s reflected in the fact that lots of great operators, great chefs and restaurateurs choose to come to Melbourne and Sydney. We’ve got Heston at Dinner, René Redzepi doing Noma… they choose Melbourne and Sydney. It says something for what we’re doing.’ Pickett remarks that what’s great about the food industry in Melbourne is how well-performing it is across the board. ‘It’s not just top end dining, or bottom end. We’ve got great cafes, great coffee, great mid level, great roast places, great drop-ins, great Asian. I think our standard over all is very good.’ Coming from a restauranteur with the accolades he has, we’d say that’s a badge to help Melbourne proudly claim ‘Most Liveable City’, at least for the foodies. But not everyone can pull off four restaurants as successful as Estelle, ESP, Saint Crispin and Pickett’s Deli and Rotisserie (in fact we think very few could), so we asked Pickett for a few words of advice, on how to hack it in the competitive Melbourne hospitality landscape. ‘I think you’ve got to have a clear vision and a clear concept fundamentally and be true to that.’ He says. ‘Lots of operators try to be everything to everyone. You need to do what you do, decide on that and stick to it and do it well, and do it the best that you can. Don’t deviate.’
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PROFILE: ANDREW McCONNELL WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN
In an era where the Australian food industry is saturated with
You have so many establishments. What would you say is your
new restaurants/bars/cafes that are hyped up as the next
secret to their consistent quality across the board?
big thing one moment, only to fail spectacularly the next, it is difficult to understand just how chef/restaurateur Andrew
Well yeah that’s a big question that covers a lot of ground in
McConnell and his partners have achieved the kind of success
terms of service and ambience and atmosphere.
and longevity they have. With nine food business entities
But I think it’s just a relentless drive to keep, you know, getting
throughout Melbourne that boast shining reputations, the
better. To get better at what we do. But it’s also about being
McConnell brand is a recognised force in the Australian food
able to evolve with time as well - changing and improving what
industry. And it’s no wonder – the consistent quality of his
we’re doing, revisiting and reanalysing what we do and how we
establishments has created a loyal patronage that grows ever
do it and why.
larger. That goes from how we’re training staff, the process of service, We spoke to McConnell about the challenges of the industry,
how we’re cooking, how the room and the ambience feel... I
his bold new Chinese restaurant housed in Fitzroy’s Builder’s
think it’s just always questioning things, and the drive to evolve
Arms Hotel, and why food enthusiasts are so partial to Asian
and change and get better.
cuisine.
15
And what are the greatest challenges in doing that? Is it staff?
Yep. And the day-to-day maintenance is probably the most stressful part!
The challenges come from all areas of running a business.
Yeah, that’s the hardest part. Everyone says opening a restaurant is really hard; but actually, the hard work is running the restaurant and maintaining
But I think the most challenging thing facing this industry right now is
the motivation and the standards.
finding staff, [because there’s] a staff shortage. I think that’s been the case for many years now.
So once you’ve come up with a concept, what are the first steps you take to set up an establishment?
Why do you think there is a staff shortage? Well what has happened with me historically is, I have been fortunate that I think it’s got more to do with… maybe it’s not a shortage of staff. Maybe it’s
sites have come along and been offered to me. So when I have an idea –
just that there are too many restaurants! There’s been quite an explosion
when I had the idea to open Cumulus, for example – the site dictates what
of restaurants in Melbourne in the last five or six years, and the growth has
will happen, how it will evolve, and what we think would work there.
outgrown the amount of people coming into the industry. I think a few people were surprised that you decided to open Ricky & So what is your process in setting up an establishment? How involved
Pinky at the Builder’s Arms site. What made you decide to go down the
are you in creating the menus and the general culture of the place in its
Chinese restaurant path in that space?
initial stages? Well look, a few reasons. I worked in China for five years, with Chinese I’m involved every step of the way, in all aspects. [The setting up is] what I
food. I’ve always wanted to explore Chinese food in a bit more depth, and
enjoy doing. You know. Everything from the food, working with the chefs,
the opportunity to make some changes at the Builder’s Arms presented
to engineering an environment that works as far as functionality goes, and
itself.
then working very closely with an architect to design a space. [Working to make sure that] all of [those elements] really create an ambience that
The environment around it; in Fitzroy, in Melbourne, and then [its proximity
works for the kind of business that you’re trying to establish. And that’s
to] the city made it seem like the perfect opportunity and a really good
the fun part of the job I reckon.
fit. Looking at it in hindsight, how people are using the space, using the Builders Arms and also coming to Ricky & Pinky, it was the right decision. It doesn’t get any easier. It doesn’t become any more of a sure thing, the
16
more experience you get. It’s still just as nerve-racking, going through the
opportunity to live and work in China. That exposure really gave me the
process and the self-doubt that comes along with you know, going out on
confidence, the knowledge, the palate and the understanding of how to
a limb. But it’s now two and a half months in [at Ricky & Pinky] and I’m a
use those ingredients and to be quite true to the flavours, and I suppose
little bit more comfortable with the direction of what we’re doing there
the heritage, of some of these different cuisines.
now. Are you partial to any one of your restaurants in particular? So why do you think there’s such a huge focus on Asian cuisine and taking it to such an elevated level? I feel like that has been happening
No. I don’t think you can have a favourite child; you can’t have a favourite
everywhere.
restaurant, either. But I like them all for different reasons, I love working in them all for different reasons, and I like working with the people I work
I think that’s been happening all over the world for a long time. The Flower
with, which is the most important thing.
Drum, one of our longest-standing fine dining restaurants in Melbourne, is Chinese. So I don’t think there’s anything new about the fact that there’s good Asian food [available] now, both in Melbourne and around Australia. I do think we’re seeing a lot more of it, and that’s based on the growth of the industry per capita, the amount of people going to restaurants etcetera etcetera. And I think that’s a response to how the environment’s changing, [rather than] a strong push in the industry. It’s an evolution of what people are looking to eat as well. People are looking for diversity in how they go out and socialise and use restaurants now. You focus on European food as well as Asian food across your restaurants. Do you prefer one to the other? I don’t prefer one to the other! But I trained and worked in European kitchens for 20 years. Towards the end of those 20 years, I had the
17
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
THE NEFF MARKET KITCHEN
MAKE ME TEA
With Christmas just around the corner, why not give the gift of a culinary
Here at Make Me Tea we have a real passion for natural remedies and
experience this year? We love the cooking classes at The Neff Market
unlocking all the benefits that Mother Nature has provided us. Make Me
Kitchen at South Melbourne Market; from seafood and desserts to Japanese
Tea was created when two friends discovered the healing properties of
and Mexican classes, they have a huge range to choose from.
herbal tea concoctions and decided they wanted to share them with the world!
The Neff Market Kitchen is an intimate venue where you’ll be able to learn from Melbourne’s top chefs, and then enjoy the meal over a glass of wine.
Our tea is hand blended in Australia from local and imported premium
For more information about The Neff Market Kitchen cooking classes and
tea suppliers. We believe that nature has provided us with everything
gift vouchers visit SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
we need to maintain our health and nurture our bodies, which is why we only use organic tea cultivated without the use of harmful pesticides and chemical fertilisers. We support ethical tea sourcing and ensure our tea is produced in a socially responsible way. Our blends have been developed with the help of a qualified Nutritionist and Naturopath and the herbs in our tea have been researched and proven to nourish, heal and support our bodies to good health. Shop online: WWW.MAKEMETEA.COM instagram.com/makemetea
Pay a Sack Forward aims to support those experiencing homelessness in
Pack a sack and grab a coffee at
Australia th rough the distribution of ‘survival sacks’.
Melbourne HQ ‘St Ki Ida Courtyard’.
Just five dollars allows Pay A Sack Forward to provide an individual with a
Alternatively check out the ‘donate’
sack containing basic essentials including food and hygiene products. These
and ‘outlet finder’ pages at
are distributed by the volunteer team, and through partner organisation’s
PAYASACKFORWARD.COM for more
including food vans, drop in centres and outreach services.
ways to get involved.
18
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
CORTILLÉ Bendigo cafe, Cortillé, showcases love and support
The team also appreciates that not everyone is
for local produce and local artists!
the same, so do a combination of gluten free, vegetarian and vegan dishes that are as good as
Their coffee is created with beans specially roasted
any dish on the menu.
to your liking from Axil Coffee Roasters (Winner 2013 ‘Best Coffee’ in The Age Good Food Guide).
Cortille even offers yoga and pilates classes every
Cortillé’s baristas are professionally trained (by
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday in their
Axil Coffee Roasters) and with their silky milk,
converted upstairs yoga studio.
precisely ground weight and timed to perfection extraction, the team aim to give you the coffee of
For more information or to place a booking, call
your dreams!
03 5444 3082 or say hello@cafecortille.com.
The venue serve breakfast and lunch all day, every
322 Lyttleton Terrace
day and have some of the finest local produce,
Bendigo
combined with the most passionate chefs in Bendigo to plate up an experience you won’t forget.
facebook.com/cortille instagram.com/cortille facebook.com/yogaatcortille
SMITH & DAUGHTERS: A COOKBOOK (THAT HAPPENS TO BE VEGAN) Many people believe veganism is a trend, that
almond sauce, chipotle cashew ‘cheese’,
all vegan food tastes the same, boring, bland
‘tuna’ and green pea croquettes to warm
way and, above all, that it is uncreative, not
Spanish doughnuts or spiced Mexican flan,
filling and lacks flavour. Shannon Martinez
the recipes give new inventive life to classics
and Mo Wyse from celebrated restaurant
that will appeal to meat and vegetarian
Smith & Daughters don’t! In this their first
eaters alike.
cookbook Forget your preconceptions of vegan food. Smith & Daughters: A Cookbook (That
In Smith & Daughters: A Cookbook (That
Happens
ignore
Happens to be Vegan) Shannon and Mo
plant-based
are here to challenge them all. Their aim is
convention
to
be in
Vegan)
favour
of
they
for people to experience delicious plant-
innovation in the kitchen.
based food the way it should be: big, bold, Across 7 chapters, including big plates,
flavourful,
small
worthy.
plates,
salads,
sweets,
dressings
noteworthy
and
celebration-
and drinks, Smith & Daughters offers 80+ delicious vegan recipes with a Spanish
RRP:
$48.00
twist to recreate at home. From ‘chorizo’
bookstores.
Available
from
all
good
and potato, Spanish ‘meatballs’ in a saffron
19
A JOURNEY TO THE HIDDEN SEA WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
The life of a photographer is never boring. Each job is a new experience and
It all started after popping in to a mate’s venue in Collingwood for a chat
location working with varied clients and a whole new set of requirements
and shot of rum. I was introduced to the team from a yet to launch wine
and challenges. I decided many years ago that I wouldn’t get stuck doing
brand hailing from Limestone Coast in South Australia. I was immediately
one thing, preferring to diversify and tackle different areas and styles of
intrigued by the branding, there was something dark and mysterious about
photography in order to keep fresh and current and have work regardless
it and I wanted to know more. Unlike the beer and spirits industries that
of the time of year. While I still shoot a lot of functions, portraits and
are both considered unorthodox and progressive, where traditions are
interiors/architecture, lately my work has taken me very much into the
challenged and flavour profiles are pushed to the extreme, the wine world,
hospitality scene, working with cafes, restaurants and bars, as well as
by comparison, is still seen as conservative. Yes, there has been a change
people bringing out new food and beverage products. These kinds of jobs
in recent years with a move toward natural and minimal intervention wines,
often mean being out and about at all hours, and it was one such night
but it’s wine, maybe with a little less done to it, but wine all the same.
where my journey to The Hidden Sea began.
There’s no mixing or garnishes to change the flavour, and no amount of shaking or stirring will change the fact that you pretty much have a bunch of grapes in your glass.
21
Wine is a product of agriculture and is crop and weather dependent, you can’t just make it unless everything in nature goes right and maybe that’s where a lot of the conservatism comes from, with winemakers wanting to respect the beautiful fruit they use. So if you just accept the fact that wine is wine and doesn’t need to be messed around with, how do you take it
You can see how the gnarled roots of the vines have pushed their way through the layers, drawing on this history and the pure underground water, to produce the most amazing fruit used by the some of best winemakers around the world.
and make it sexy, engaging and very desirable? The answer is simple - take a photographer looking for his next challenge and do a three day road trip
feeling of warmth against the backdrop of a cold and desolate sea and
to the home where it comes from to capture the essence of a brand known
the coexistence of the elements and environment. Fire has always helped
as The Hidden Sea.
people to gather, bringing a sense of ritual and respect, something The Hidden Sea brand is all about, believing they are taking from nature and
One very cold morning in late August at about 5:30am, my initiation
giving $2 from every case back into projects to help preserve our world’s
began, sitting in the back of a car with Ryan the national brand manager,
wilderness in all its forms. With day one nearly over we retired to our
Ally the head of marketing and more than enough wine for the three of us,
accommodation where we were welcomed by local chef, Kirby Shearing
not knowing where I was going or exactly what I had to do. The wine had
from Soul Projects, who prepared a beautiful meal using seasonal local
already launched in Melbourne and also in New York a couple of months
produce and hand picked wild herbs. A few glasses of wine and we were
before that, and while I knew what style of photography was required, this
ready for a good night’s sleep.
was to be a branding exercise to give the wine a sense of place, with me being taken to various areas in the region and given free reign to capture
The next day began with a full breakfast, cooked by Kirby who also stayed
what I believed would tell the story as best as possible.
the night. We reluctantly said goodbye to our private chef and left for Mount Benson where we took more shots on the beach followed by some
We drove along The Great Ocean Road, finally arriving in the beautiful
photos in the vineyard and the amazing pine plantation across the road.
town of Robe where we proceeded to Cape Dombey to capture the wines
We travelled on to Padthaway, arriving late afternoon at our destination,
and the iconic 160 year old obelisk. We went to the beach where we lit a
the Willalooka Eco Lodge. It was here that I needed to capture the native
fire and grabbed some shots as the sun began to set, playing on the
surrounds and show the wines being enjoyed in a domestic setting with
22
beautiful cheeses and antipasti. It was only natural that once the photos
actually got to see the cutting where the terra rossa soil this area is known
were done, we drank a few bottles and finished off the food together with
for, merges with the limestone. You can see how the gnarled roots of the
a delicious broccoli pasta dish that Ryan whipped up for dinner.
vines have pushed their way through the layers, drawing on this history and the pure underground water, to produce the most amazing fruit used
An early start on day three and we set off to the limestone caves at
by the some of best winemakers around the world.
Naracoorte. I was secretly dreading this part of the trip, knowing the underground setting for the shoot would be by far the most demanding
There are many wine regions of Australia, but none so remote as the
element. While I had portable lighting with me, I had to use it sparingly,
Limestone Coast. For such an expansive area filled with so many vineyards
wanting to keep the images as natural as possible and allowing the wine to
I barely saw a single person in our three day trip. The feeling of isolation
blend into its surroundings. The caves and this part of the region are integral
was eerie to say the least, especially when it was cloudy and raining. If
to the brand, as 26 million years ago the whole coast was submerged by
anything though the solitude brought me closer to my assignment and
the Great Southern Ocean and when the water receded it left behind the
regardless of the other two people I was with, it almost felt like it was just
limestone covered with marine fossils including one of a whale that lies
me and the wine. Nothing else seemed to matter, there was no distraction,
beneath the vineyards. It’s this natural legacy that gives the wines their
only inspiration. I felt consumed by my surroundings, by the task at hand
minerality and created the soil’s unique filtration system. Travelling down
and knew that I was exactly where I was supposed to be. Once I arrived
into the depths of the caves, we felt a true sense of place and instantly
home and began the editing process, the sense of excitement returned
understood the inspiration for Hidden Sea’s bottle design, created by
and the thrill of seeing the result of my work was electric. Even now as I
famous New York artist Jon Contino. What makes it so beautiful is the
sit back and watch my images being rolled out across social media both
fact that the bottle has no label, it is screen printed with Jon’s haunting
here and overseas, I get a little tingle knowing that I am a part of helping to
imagery, leading you to what’s inside, a product of its environment, so
make this product an international success. It was one of those jobs I will
much so that you can almost taste the past. If these guys wanted me to
never forget, my three day journey had finally come to a close, I had found
feel a connection to their wine, then they had achieved success.
The Hidden Sea and I will definitely be back.
The final part of our journey, as we made our way back to Melbourne,
thehiddensea.com.au
was through Coonawarra, where more fruit is sourced. It was here that I
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24
A GUIDE TO COFFEE IN NEW YORK
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN
Who said New York only serves up super charged drip coffee, stale
BLUESTONE LANE
overly roasted beans and milky lattes? The third wave of coffee is bringing premium coffee to New York, so you can say hello to super
Bluestone Lane is one of the early pioneers of the coffee movement
smooth flat whites and a burgeoning coffee shop culture which rivals
in New York. Influenced by the coffee culture of Melbourne, Bluestone
the very best in the world. Here’s my ultimate New York Coffee Guide
Lane is fastidious about the quality of coffee they serve and is keen
to the Big Apple.
to educate New Yorkers how to enlighten their palates. They source the finest premium organic fair trade beans around, roasted by coffee
LITTLE COLLINS
artisans, to ensure the fullest flavour and taste. On the all-day menu you can expect all the usual classics like smashed avocado on toast, bircher
It’s only fitting that this coffee shop is named after one of Melbourne’s
muesli and eggs all ways, as well as some pretty delicious cold-pressed
most loved streets. Little Collins pays homage to the spirit of the
juices. The fit out of the cafe is pretty fabulous too.
bustling street in Melbourne and of course Melbourne’s buzzing coffee culture. It’s a cafe you would expect to find in a trendier area like Nolita
bluestonelaneny.com
or Soho, but it is welcomed by the hordes of caffeine hungry corporates in mid-town. This small industrial cafe hums in the morning like a well-
CAFE GRUMPY
oiled machine, with hundreds of cups of freshly brewed coffee churned out by the expert baristas. On the breakfast menu, there’s lots of tasty
At Café Grumpy, it’s all about simple, quality coffee. The independently
dishes like ‘The Pick Me Up’ sandwich with sage omelette, the avo smash
owed and operated coffee company, also pride themselves in sourcing
and ‘The Big Dill’ toasted sandwich with cured salmon and scrambled
socially responsible beans and highlighting the different flavoural
eggs. Get on it!
profiles in each coffee they roast. The Chelsea shop, nestled in a treelined block, also has a cute courtyard at the back, which is a peaceful
littlecollinsnyc.com
sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the city. They also have an in house roaster on site. cafegrumpy.com
25
TOBY’S ESTATE
NINTH STREET ESPRESSO
It was only a matter of time that an Australian coffee shop infiltrated
Established in 2001, Ninth Street Espresso is considered to be the first
the New York coffee scene. Once stepping inside Toby’s Estate in
specialty coffee bar in New York City. Their focus is on a quality driven,
Williamsburg, Brooklyn, which is housed within a former meatpacking
purist approach to coffee. The no fuss menu is limited to just a few
factory, I could have been anywhere in Melbourne. It has a fun hipster
options; brewed coffee, iced coffee, espresso and espresso with milk.
vibe, industrial interiors and, most importantly, great coffee and food.
All of the beans used by Ninth Street Espresso are sourced from select
Join the arty types at the communal table with your laptop and be part
specialty farms and roasted locally throughout the week. I frequented
of the creative energy of Williamsburg. Coffee is an art here and the
the Chelsea Market store but they also have locations in Alphabet City,
staff travel the world to source the best coffee in town. Trust me you
Tompkins Square, Midtown and Gowanus.
won’t be disappointed. ninthstreetespresso.com tobysestate.com THIRD RAIL COFFEE BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE With two locations in Greenwich Village and East Village, Third Rail Blue Bottle Coffee was my saviour when staying in Chelsea. So many
Coffee is one of my favourites when it comes to a quality brew. Whether
mornings I would wander to Bluebottle Coffee then go for a stroll around
you’re looking for an espresso, cold brew or drip coffee (amongst many
the neighbouring Chelsea Markets. This coffee shop started in Oakland,
other options), rest assured you’ll be well looked after here. Their
California and has quickly grown into a network of cafes, an espresso
espresso is usually a single origin coffee roasted by Counter Culture
cart and a small fleet of Loring roasters. Be prepared for your mind to
Coffee and a number of “guest” rotations are also available. There’s also
boggle at the complex range of brewing guides at Bluebottle – ranging
a delicious selection of freshly baked croissants, scones and doughnuts
from aeropress, cold brew to pour over and siphon. The choice is yours.
from my beloved Doughnut Plant.
bluebottlecoffee.com
thirdrailcoffee.com
26
INTELLIGENTSIA COFFEE
ABRAÇO
Since opening in Chicago, Intelligentsia has developed somewhat of a
It may be tiny, but what Abraço doesn’t have in size, it makes up for it
cult following amongst coffee nerds. Lucky for New Yorkers, they can
in charm and personality. The hole-in-the-wall style cafe is pretty much
experience the finest Intelligentsia Coffee in the lobby of The High Line
standing room only, so be prepared to get nice and cosy with your
Hotel. With a contemporary, industrial feel, the store has an imposing
neighbours. It may not serve as good a flat white as the previous coffee
zinc bar with a custom espresso machine, serving a nice range of single
shops but it does serve a mean freshly brewed drip coffee. Make sure
origin blends and rotations. Don’t miss their delicious pastries from
you try the delicious home made treats including their signature olive-
Bien Cuit and Mah Ze Dahr
oil cake and rose almond cookies.
intelligentsiacoffee.com
abraconyc.com
CULTURE ESPRESSO
Honourable mentions also go to Birch Coffee, La Colombe and Brooklyn Roasting Company,
Culture Espresso is an independent and locally owned coffee shop that opened in 2009, serving up premium coffees from major roasters throughout the world. Coffee preparation and presentation is the focus of Culture Espresso, and they make sure every detail from sourcing to brewing is top notch. Culture Espresso is currently preparing coffees chosen and roasted by Heart Coffee Roasters out of Portland, Oregon. There’s also a great range of tasty treats like cookies and pastries to take away. cultureespresso.com
27
THE GLASS DEN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LISA HOLMEN
The Glass Den Coburg has one of those menus where you want to order
The menu is packed full of delicious breakfast and lunch treats. It’s playful
all of the above. I am an indecisive person at the best of times, particularly
and inventive, and is definitely a menu where you think “I could NOT
before my first caffeine fix of the day. And after reading the menu and re-
have made this at home”. There’s plenty of gluten free options too. On
reading it again, I felt more and more confused. I wanted it all. But the best
the savoury side there’s an open soft shell crab croissant with spinach
thing about plenty of options is that you will definitely want to go back.
scrambled eggs and an Egg au Gratin with confit portobello mushrooms, while the sweet menu sings with rocky road French toast with matcha
Housed in the site of the former Pentridge Prison (Pentridge is the old
whipped mascarpone and blackforest hotcakes. Even the standard avo
name for Coburg), the Glass Den Coburg is located in the gatehouse of
on toast is mighty tempting, teamed with fresh cherry tomatoes, dukkah,
the notorious D Block. The prison only closed in 1997, so you can still feel
bocconchini fiordilatte, baby mizuna, basil pesto and balsamic reduction
the history of the place. Beyond the beautiful bluestone façade, you’ll now
served on crisp soy and quinoa loaf.
find a beautiful light filled space. Colourful mismatched chairs are teamed with contemporary art and plenty of greenery. Some of the prison bars still
More “lunchier” options are served from 11:00am and include a selection
remain, ensuring that a little sense of history is instilled.
of burgers, a beetroot and thyme cured salmon and the super delicious
28
(and healthy!) winter bowl – chock full of roasted pumpkin, cauliflower, baby spinach, candied almonds, chickpeas, house infused feta and a tahini dressing. The black forest hotcakes are a sweet tooth’s dream. A stack of three fluffy
The black forest hotcakes are a sweet tooth’s dream. A stack of three fluffy hotcakes are laden with cherry nibs, chocolate fudge, candied coconut and chocolate soil to produce a textural and flavour bomb.
hotcakes are laden with cherry nibs, chocolate fudge, candied coconut and chocolate soil to produce a textural and flavour bomb. A side of
They serve St Ali Coffee; the house blend is “Orthodox” 40% Colombia
vanilla bean whipped cream is just enough to cut through the richness and
/ 60% Brazil and they also serve a number of single origins which rotate
intensity of the chocolate.
regularly. Or you can have a health kick with a Good Brew Kombucha, one of their cold pressed juices or an avocado smoothie.
The hotcakes are teamed with a shot of sour cherry ganache so you can pour to your heart’s content.
If you’re looking for a reason to check out Coburg, this is your reason.
Equally delicious is the sizzling caramel bread pudding which is baked
THE GLASS DEN
fresh in house daily and served in a black skillet. It’s a glamourous sticky
15 Urquhart St, Coburg
date pudding of sorts, teamed with banana, brandy sauce, walnut, salted
PH: 03 9354 5032
caramel fudge, house made toffee caramel ice cream and finished with
facebook.com/TheGlassDenCoburg
cinnamon dust. One of those dishes which are almost too pretty to eat – highlight the almost!
29
PAN-FRIED PEPPERS With Crispy Garlic RECIPE SHANNON MARTINEZ AND MO WYSE
This dish can be made with any kind of pepper. Poblanos
If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on traditional
work well, but you can also make it with run-of-the-mill
padrón peppers, cook them in the exact same way as
capsicums.
this recipe for one of the best Spanish recipes of all time.
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
60 ml (2 fl oz ¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
Heat the oil in a large frying pan with a lid over low heat.
2 large garlic cloves, sliced as thinly as possible 4 red bullhorn peppers
Add the sliced garlic and cook slowly for about 1 minute until golden
4 Hungarian peppers
brown. (Be careful not to burn the garlic or it will taste bitter and you
salt flakes
will need to start again.) Fish out the garlic and set aside for later.
parsley, sliced as thinly as possible (optional)
Add the whole peppers (stems and all) and toss through the oil with a large pinch of salt flakes. Cover and cook, without stirring, for about 2 minutes, then turn the peppers over, replace the lid and cook for a further 2 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to cook until the peppers begin to collapse and become very soft – a little bit of colour on the peppers is totally fine. Transfer the peppers to a heatproof serving dish and pour over the warm oil directly from the pan. Scatter with the crispy garlic, parsley (if using), and an extra sprinkling of salt flakes. This dish is best eaten warm or at room temperature (definitely not cold), with loads of bread to soak up all that incredible oil. Olive oil is a superfood, right?
This is an edited extract from Smith & Daughters: A Cookbook (that happens to be vegan) by Shannon Martinez and Mo Wyse published by Hardie Grant Books RRP 48.00 and is available in stores nationally and online.
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31
REVIEWS FIVE SENSES COFFEE - TIGHTROPE BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG For those of you who have been following my little coffee
for training but also to share knowledge about what
feature for the nearly two years I have been writing, you
is happening in the world of coffee, especially in the
would know that I have a strong affinity with a slightly
countries and communities where it is grown. It’s not
darker roast, more Italian in style, usually Brazil driven.
just about supporting the cafes and baristas who use
That being said I enjoying trying lots of different coffees
their coffee but also inviting others to participate and
and love being surprised by the unexpected. This brings
learn.
me to naturally processed beans from Ethiopia where the bean itself is dried with the intact fruit, resulting in
One person already initiated into the world of Five
a brighter taste and whole lot of zing. Usually best to
Senses is Adam Nicholl who owns Astroluxe with his
drink black, for someone like me who enjoys a touch of
sister Tanya Billard and her husband Stu, using the
milk, I tend to stay away from coffee like this. But what
coffee during his five years at Pillar of Salt in Richmond.
if there was a blend, distinctly fruit driven by a natural
Opening their new cafe in Bentleigh East only six months
Ardi from the Sidama region of Ethiopia and combined
ago it was a no brainer to maintain the relationship with
with a washed bean from Veracruz in Mexico giving it a
the roaster, choosing Tightrope because of its ability to
sweet rich flavour? Enter Tightrope, one of four blends
be enjoyed by everyone regardless of how they drink
from Five Senses Coffee maintaining a fine balance like
their coffee. Also according to Adam, in spite of the
the most elegant circus performer on the high wire,
continual weather changes in Melbourne, it produces
working equally well as an espresso or with milk. As
freakishly consistent results even with multiple baristas
with the other coffees they offer, it’s less about actual
behind their Synesso Hydra machine, chosen not only
roasting style and more about being true to the origin
for build quality but also because of its ability to extract
of the beans and variety in order to create a sensory
the softness and various flavour profiles from the beans.
experience in the cup for maximum enjoyment.
Serving up some great food to go with the coffee, the three owners have extensive hospitality experience
fivesenses.com.au info@fivesenses.com.au 03 9239 6200
Started 16 years ago by Dean Gallagher who was a
behind them in both cafes and bars and have created a
school principal in Papua New Guinea, Five Senses was a
warm and inviting space designed by Robson and Rak
career change based on a love of specialty coffee, from
architects in what used to be an old bank. Their aim was
a man who wanted to share his passion with cafe owners
to offer creative seasonal food and bring an inner city
and create a workplace where the staff were excited to
vibe to a suburban area so locals had somewhere great
come each day. Starting in his hometown of Perth, the
to go without having to travel across town, however
business expanded here to Melbourne, roasting in both
word has spread and Astroluxe is fast becoming a
cities, then opening Barista Academies in each one, plus
destination cafe, especially on the weekends.
the latest in Sydney to bring people together not only If you haven’t walked the Tightrope before and want to sample a coffee that indulges all your senses, you’ll find the experience available these cafes, otherwise pop onto their website and grab a bag for home. Astroluxe - 303 Chesterville Rd Bentleigh East Mammoth - 736 Malvern Rd Armadale
Ternary Tuckshop - 7/3 Bromham Pl Richmond Gattica - 223 Carlisle St Balaclava
HITHER & YON MONASTRELL 2015 McLaren Vale, South Australia RRP: $23.99 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO The prize for one of the most eye-catching labels should
This deep, full-bodied variety did not disappoint with an
go to Hither & Yon, a winery run by the Leask brothers
excellent balance between sweet and savoury flavours.
in McLaren Vale, South Australia. Together they produce
Think an intoxicating nose of liquorice, anise and bitter
a range of distinctive wines that speak of their warm
chocolate followed by a palate of blackberry liqueur,
climate region, recognised on the shelves by their bold and
bramble notes, red liquorice and a slightly salty finish. The
colourful labels with a large ampersand at the forefront.
tannins are super fine, elongating the savoury sensation
How could you miss it?
and crying out for fall-off-the-bone roasted lamb to accompany it.
I walked into the fancy new Dan Murphy’s Cellar in Prahran and the style I selected was the Monastrell (also
Stockists: In store at Dan Murphys Cellar, Prahran or online
commonly known as Mataro or Mourvèdre), purely for its
at Nick’s Wine Merchants
more interesting colour combination and the fact that I was feeling carnivorous, which warranted a wine to suit.
32
BAR/D UP Video Feature - Rupert, Collingwood
Head to bardup.com.au to view the full video.
If you go to the UK and mention Rupert everyone
the best parties in town. The food that’s served is
will think you are talking about an iconic bear
modern and Mediterranean in flavour and made to
wearing a red jumper and yellow pants, a famous
share, including the pizzas which are based on a
comic strip character since 1920. In Melbourne
home made sourdough and baked in the wood fired
though you’ll find that Rupert is actually a fox and
oven. Beverages are also taken very seriously with an
a very stylish one at that, residing in a little street
emphasis on supporting Australian brewers, distillers
named after him in Collingwood. Like any other fox,
and winemakers, however other fine products are
Rupert sleeps by day and comes alive as the sun
sourced from overseas in order to give you the finest
begins to fade, welcoming hungry and thirsty people
drinking experience.
into his lair. He is the ultimate host, making sure his guests are treated to a very special experience
We all know and love Roald Dahl’s story about
whether it’s gathering by the fire, or sitting on the
Fantastic Mr Fox, smart and fearless, living to feed
couches enjoying the indoor garden surrounded
his family and protect them, inviting the other
by his precious and personal belongings, including
underground animals to his burrow for a great
the motorbike parked just inside the entry, Rupert’s
banquet. It’s very possible the author met Rupert
preferred mode of transport.
a long time ago before he made this bar his home and used him for inspiration, because we think he’s
The space was co-owner Ric Corinaldi’s steel
pretty damn generous and bloody fantastic.
works for his construction business next door and is architecturally stunning. Everything has it’s place
RUPERT
and the interior comprises many small details which
73 Rupert Street
come together to create a very warm and inviting
Collingwood 3066
venue that is more reminiscent of a home than a place
PH: 9419 7702
of business. It’s an enchanting warehouse conversion with the ultimate bar and kitchen designed to throw
rupertonrupert.com.au
FIXATION IPA WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
A wise man (my Dad) once told me, “There’s plenty
Let’s not beat around the bush – I love this beer. I
of people trying to make a buck doing exactly the
really love it. It has a bright copper colour with fluffy
same thing as everyone else.”
yet solid white head and yes, it has the typical West Coast resinous experience but I love the balance
I’m reminded of these words every time I enjoy a pint
between sweet malt and the grapefruit, piney hop
of Fixation’s India Pale Ale, but it’s not how you think.
aroma. It’s not trying to be huge and you can go back
In a world where craft beer is the only shining light in
for more than one pint with some assurance that you
a dwindling beer market, the number of breweries in
won’t wake up at 2am, 4am and 6am for a glass of
Australia passing 400 only a few weeks ago and yet
water to pour over your dry , cracked tongue. This
everyone bringing out very similar core ranges, Tom
beer is a sweet ride.
Delmont and the Fixation crew are doing one style and doing it incredibly well. You might even say Tom
To get the best experience, get it fresh at various
suffers from a “fixation” on IPA. Oh wait, ok… that’s
good beer venues around Melbourne and regional
how they came to name the beer. I just caught up,
Victoria, on tap and in bottles.
apologies I drank a lot of this beer last night. Many of you would know Tom Delmont as one of the legendary fun Mountain Goat crew back in the days when it was independent. The changing of the guard at Goat offered Tom a brilliant opportunity to work with Stone & Wood on brewing purely IPA’s and
FIXATION IPA ABV: 6.4% Style: West Coast India Pale Ale Food pairing: BBQ Beef Ribs Origin: Murwillumbah, NSW Price (RRP): $20: 4 pack 330ml Buy it here: www.fixationbrewing.com.au
getting it to people as fresh as possible.
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OUT AND ABOUT
JUNIPALOOZA MELBOURNE WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
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Launched in London in 2012, Junipalooza is considered the premier gin show in the world. This was the inaugural year for the show in Melbourne, brought together by two established voices within the gin industry, The Gin Queen and Gin Foundry who also ran masterclasses throughout
the day. 23 Australian gin makers plus four from the UK and three from New Zealand spent the weekend serving up their gins for ginthusiasts. Already planning to return in 2017, the distillers were thrilled with the interest shown, selling loads of gin and having a great time.
THE DIARY
27 November, 2016
EAST MALVERN FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Central Park - Burke and Wattletree Roads, Malvern East
The inaugural East Malvern Food and Wine Festival, Sunday 27 November 2016, taking place in picturesque Central Park, Malvern, will be a culinary community event to remember! There will be a diverse array of foods, produce and delicacies from local restaurants, eateries, fine food purveyors and regional artisan producers to cater for all palates and ages. The festival will also showcase the Bendigo and Heathcote wine regions; areas with a reputation for winemaking talent. So come along and meet the wine makers and taste a tantalising range of wines including Shiraz and Cabernet blends and Chardonnays and lesser known varietals including Nero D’Avola, Tempranillo, Fiano and Marsanne. Taste local Melbourne favourites including Richmond oysters + seafood tapas, bring your shopping baskets and stock up with the best of Victorian produce, including locally produced cheeses, gourmet condiments and bespoke Christmas puddings. The East Malvern Food and Wine Festival, is FREE, family friendly and designed to suit all ages, so bring your family and friends.
15 November, 2016
SHU’S POP UP WAREHOUSE DINNER
November 2016
GOOD FOOD MONTH
147 Johnston Street, Collingwood
Collingwood’s modern Chinese restaurant, SHU is proudly hosting its very first pop-up dinner on Tuesday 15th November, in conjunction with The Hidden Sea wines from South Australia, at one of the most iconic Collingwood warehouses. Click here to feel the mood This dinner is a pop-up, a one off ticketed event. #popupshu is the word. This dinner is inspired by the fiery Sichuan palate and glorious Australian summer produce, set amidst the colourful silhouette of Collingwood. 40 guests will be taken through the warehouse’s secret entrance to the ‘venue revealing’ cocktail hour, before SHU presents a night of fusion degustation dinner with dessert and matching wines from The Hidden Sea. #popupshu is set to embrace the food and wine culture of Melbourne and to impress the adventurous Melbournians. Tickets on sale now 6.30pm | Tickets from $100 SHURESTAURANT.COM
Get your tastebuds ready as The Age Good Food Month presented by Citi kicks off on Tuesday, November 1 and continues throughout the month of November with the most exciting program to date, including new one-off events alongside tried-and-true favourites. Last year the crowd-favourite Night Noodle Markets attracted over 400,000 people and will return this year with a roster including Melbourne favourites Chin Chin, Wanderbao, Hoy Pinoy and desserts from Gelato Messina and Black Star Pastry x N2 Extreme Gelato. Ok-Nomi will also be joining the stellar stallholder line up while DJs and live music will be on hand to entertain all night long from November 10-27. November will also see two of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants meet in Melbourne for an unforgettable night of dining (November 24). Virgilio Martinez of Central, Lima is set to join forces with Melbourne’s Attica to create dishes driven by native Peruvian and Australian ingredients. Tickets are $395 per person and include a copy of Martinez’s new cookbook Central.
Commencing at 10:30am, the festival also offers the fun of children’s activities including a jumping castle and petting zoo while local school bands will provide live entertaining music performances throughout the day.
EVENT HIGHLIGHTS
We warm up the festival celebrations with a 10-day lead up program of events in and around East Malvern precinct including wine tastings, wine specials at local restaurants and ‘meet the wine maker’ lunches and dinners where local East Malvern chefs and Bendigo and Heathcote wine makers collaborate to create specialty menus with matched regional wines - see the website for the full festival program details.
Good Heavens rooftop bar is throwing a sky-high Southern Sunday sesh, featuring tasty southern-style snacks from Mike Patrick (Fancy Hanks), Duncan Welgemoed (Africola) and Morgan McGlone (Belle’s Hot Chicken).
Southern Sunday Sesh Sunday, November 6; 12pm ($55)
Gerard’s Bistro pop-up Tuesday, November 8; 6pm arrival ($150)
EASTMALVERNFOODANDWINE.MELBOURNE
19-20 November, 2016
LA DOLCE VITA WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL Various Wineries in the King Valley Wine Region
The King Valley’s spring festival, La Dolce Vita, 14 to 15 November, showcases the innovative wine styles the region has become known for, the foods that many of the generation have grown up on and the honest and generous hospitality that the family owned businesses of the King Valley pride themselves on providing.
20 November, 2016
KITCHEN GARDEN WORKSHOP AT THE ROYAL MAIL HOTEL 98 Parker Street, Dunkeld, Victoria
Join the Royal Mail Hotel’s Kitchen Gardener, Michelle Shanahan, for an afternoon of gardening where you will learn the tips, tricks and challenges of setting up your own organic kitchen garden.
Visitors will not only be able to sample Sangiovese and Prosecco in its Australian home, they can also journey around the world by tasting a range of intriguing Italian, Spanish, German, Portuguese, Russian and French varieties at the participating wineries. Varieties such as Arneis, Pinot Grigio, Savignan, Verduzzo, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Tempranillo sit alongside more mainstream varieties for a tasting experience like no other.
Ben Williams, from Gerard’s Bistro in Brisbane, is one of the hottest chefs in the nation. A master of smoke, fire and the culinary heritage of Middle Eastern Cuisine, Ben learned from the cooks and chefs of Bahrain. This special collaboration between Ben and the Movida Aqui team, featuring some of the best Middle Eastern produce available, is going to be one very special meal. Preview of Longsong Friday, November 18; 6pm ($60) Get a sneak peek at one of the biggest openings of 2017: the long-awaited upstairs bar to Melbourne’s mod-Thai hero Longrain. Join David Moyle, the chef who has set Tasmania’s dining scene alight with Franklin in Hobart, as he plates up an exclusive preview of Longsong’s Thai-leaning menu along with cocktails, beers and wines, months before the venue opens to the public. Young Chefs Lunch Sunday, November 20; noon – 3pm ($190)
You will take home seeds from Little Veggie Patch Co and some compost rich Royal Mail Garden soil to help get you on your way.
With an strong Italian influence, the menus at each of the participating wineries allow you to choose from authentic dishes prepared by Nonna’s and renowned local chefs including handmade pasta and gnocchi, pizzas, seafood along with mouth-watering Italian desserts, sweets and coffee.
Enjoy a five-course lunch, hosted by Oter, from Victoria’s hottest up-and-coming chefs – Jake Kellie from The Lakeside Mill, Jasper Avent from Carlton’s Town Mouse, Alex Xinis from The Press Club and the 2017 Young Chef of the Year, Jarrod Di Blasi of ezard.
After gardening, enjoy a five course dinner and stay the night in a Deluxe Mountain View Room, including breakfast.
Immerse yourself in the heritage of the King Valley with live music, roving entertainers, special wine tastings and beautiful King Valley views, delivering a relaxed festive atmosphere.
GOODFOODMONTH.COM
ROYALMAIL.COM.AU
WINESOFTHEKINGVALLEY.COM.AU
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