GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 69 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
CONTENTS EATING OUT TINKER Lisa Holmen
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INTERVIEW
RECIPE
PETER GUNN | IDES
JOHNNY DI FRANCESCO’S
Megan Osborne
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MARGHERITA PIZZA
REGULARS 30
CONTRIBUTORS
4
NEWLY OPENED
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AROUND THE TRAPS LA TORTILLERIA Emma Lyons
CHEESE MASTER: WILL STUDD 18
Lauren Bruce
THINGS WE LOVE 24
GIFT GUIDE VALENTINE’S DAY GIFT GUIDE
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REVIEWS
32
OUT AND ABOUT
34
THE DIARY
35
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ON THE COVER: PINEAPPLE The pineapple (Ananas comosus) is a tropical plant with an edible multiple fruit consisting of coalesced berries, also called pineapples, and the most economically significant plant in the Bromeliaceae family. Pineapples may be cultivated from a crown cutting of the fruit, possibly flowering in 5-10 months and fruiting in the following six months. Pineapples do not ripen significantly after harvest. Pineapples can be consumed fresh, cooked, juiced, or preserved. (Source: Wikipedia)
Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: advertising@grammagazine.com.au
Jess Hourigan
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au
Lauren Bruce
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne
www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
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CONTRIBUTORS 2016 was a big year for GRAM. With the introduction
The media landscape has been changing for quite some time now, and as such, food
of two new Deputy Editors, some fantastic features
media is still trying to figure out where its place is in all of it. Social media and online
around Victoria’s food and wine industry and home
content dominate the environment while print media outlets have to get creative
food culture, some really exciting and far-reaching
to compete. Food bloggers and instagram “influencers” have become relevant in
interviews including with the likes of Chris Ying,
the food critique space. Top-notch launch events and other marketing strategies to
Danny Bowien, Scott Pickett, Andrew McConnell and
gain exposure have become more important than ever before for new and existing
Matty Matheson, and the awesome Gram City Traders
establishments. Marketing in general has become as important to the food industry as
Treasure Hunt, Gram Magazine is covering Melbourne’s
a good review published in traditional media.
food culture and beyond with more insight and passion than ever before.
At Gram, we make a conscious decision to embrace all of it. We recognise the value of experienced food writers and photographers to the industry. We also embrace food
If we learned anything last year, it was that there are so many interesting aspects to
bloggers and all the creativity and fresh perspective they’re bringing to food culture.
food culture that, even if you dedicated your life to discovering them, would never
And now as editor, after writing for GRAM for over four years, I’m looking forward to
be fully realised. From the home cooks, to the nonnas and the yia yias upholding
getting even more stuck into every aspect of this industry.
family traditions, to the hardworking front-of-house staff in restaurants, to the phenomenal and larger-than-life chefs and restaurateurs, to the resilient and talented
I wish all of our readers a Happy New Year and I look forward to discovering more
producers, to the savvy event managers, to the discerning food journalists and
about our fantastic food and drink culture with you.
the creative food bloggers – our food culture continues to develop at an alarming rate, with a flourishing community that grows ever more excited to lap it all up.
Lauren Bruce Editor
MEGAN OSBORNE
LISA HOLMEN
Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine— she’s not fussy.
After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel. My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015.
meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld
DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffee obsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars. He shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Dean’s posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together. INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com
ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.
TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
CALLING ALL FOOD WRITERS EMMA LYONS Emma has been working in kitchens and bars from Europe to Australia for many years, and her knowledge of the food scene spans continents. Originally from Nottingham, Emma reported on local food and culture before embarking on an adventure in Oz. As a freelance writer based in Melbourne, she’s thoroughly enjoying the array of delicious food and wine the city has to offer.
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GRAM is always on the hunt for exciting and passionate food writers for both print and online pieces. If you’ve got a great story you think would work perfectly within the pages of GRAM Magazine, get in touch with your pitch! CONTACT: Lauren Bruce (Editor) lauren@grammagazine.com.au
www.grammagazine.com.au
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STEP 5: THE CHEESE EN AUBRAC Olivewood Cheese Knife $219.00
CORAVIN Wine System Model Two $550
NEL LUSSO Brass Hor D’Oeuvre Servers $36.95
www.chefshat.com.au
NOW OPEN
AGATHE PATISSERIE PETITE
GIRLS AND BOYS FITZROY
BETTY’S BURGERS
The freshest of fresh French pastries will now be available in the CBD with revered South Melbourne Market trader, Agathé Pâtisserie, opening a cute little hole-in-the-wall outlet in the city’s Royal Arcade.
Designed as a cosy neighbourhood hideaway, Wine 1160 is set to welcome locals and destination drinkers alike. With a 160-strong wine list, 1160 places wine at the forefront of their offering. The exciting, innovative list that sees special, benchmark wines usually only sold by the bottle become available by the glass.
After enjoying a LOT of hype in Queensland, burger shack Betty’s Burgers & Concrete Co has just opened its fourth venue at 97 Elizabeth Street in Melbourne! This will be Betty’s first foray out of Queensland, serving its signature range of top quality burgers such as the Betty’s Classic and the more health-conscious Bare Betty, as well as their house-made frozen custard ice-creams and “Concretes” - with indulgent mix-ins such as chocolate-chip cookie dough and Persian fairy-floss.
This latest offering from French croissant queen Agathé Kerr, Agathé Pâtisserie Petite is a baby sister to Agathé Pâtisserie in South Melbourne Market, which has developed a cult following since opening in 2015 regularly attracting a long queue of eager customers waiting for freshly baked treats. Agathé Pâtisserie serves a large and continuously rotating range of authentic French pastries, cakes and savouries with a focus on creativity. Infused croissants such as pandan, matcha and café au lait flavours are on offer, along with the “cruffin” in salted caramel, Nutella and peanut caramel. Agathé Pâtisserie Petite will be stocked each day with a selection of Agathe’s best-selling French pastries, including her famous plain and flavoured croissants, her escargot; cherry, pistachio, apricot and brûlée Danishes and her sweet and fluffy pain du chocolat. Agathé Pâtisserie Petite will open from 8am to 3pm on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday with hours to be extended in the coming months.
Distinguishing itself from the many food-first watering holes in Melbourne, this is a place where the menu has been created to complement the wine rather than the other way around. Focused on independent artisanal producers, the wine choices have been carefully made on the values and practices of the makers themselves and are tailored to an understanding of the preferences of locals. Wine 1160 is the vision of owner Prabir Majumdar, a political advisor who wished to plant his roots in Melbourne after having spent much of his life on the move. He will use experience gathered throughout his travels (to more than 25 countries) to take his customers on a journey with great wine.
www.bettysburgers.com.au
HENRY SUGAR After establishing both casual and high-end dining options for Melbourne vegans and vegetarians alike, the pair are now covering the vegan dessert corner of the market and doing a damn good job of it.
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Betty’s Burgers will be open from 10am til late, seven days a week.
www.wine1160.com
www.wine1160.com
Serving vegan ice cream, soft serve and other desserts to the masses, Girls and Boys is the newest plantbased venture for Melbourne veg food icons Laki Papadopoulos and Mark Price (Vegie Bar, Transformer).
Betty’s Burgers beef patties are handmade using local grain fed cattle, selected for its consistent marbling. Patties are intentionally pressed on the grill to create a thick crust to lock in all that juicy goodness.
97 ELIZABETH ST, MELBOURNE 1160 HIGH STREET, ARMADALE
1160 HIGH STREET, ARMADALE
GIRLS AND BOYS FITZROY
Their thickshakes are ACTUALLY be thick and come in six flavours including caramel, strawberry and heavenly chocolate-peanut-butter (our favourite!).
Girls and Boys is serving a vast array of delicious vegan-friendly cakes, tarts, fudge bars and other treats; and just in time for a hot Melbourne summer, delicious soft serve and gelato in an array of innovative flavours. The standard health-nut friendly cold-pressed juices, smoothies and shakes are also available. 382 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY www.girlsandboysfitzroy.com
Henry Sugar is a neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar serving quality food, drinks and amazing desserts with top quality customer service in a very relaxed environment.
Desserts are as important as the main event and include Coconut custard, coconut granita, mirin and citrus sorbet; and Meringue, sumac, fruit and vermouth.
Located in a newly fit out Victorian frontage shop on 298 Rathdowne Street in Melbourne’s hip suburb of Carlton, the bar is the first joint venture by Kiwi chef Michael Baker (Hell of the North, El Celler De Can Roca - Girona, Alkimia - Barcelona, The Larder NZ) and bartender Daniel Mason (Joe Taylor, Cookie, Toff in Town).
A vast array of alcoholic or non-alcoholic options like house fermented TonkaCola, and lemon myrtle, bramble-tea gin, raspberry and citrus fizz are on offer, along with a focused cocktail menu, and minimal intervention wine list has been curated with the menu in mind.
Henry Sugar’s menu is seasonal, simple and thoughtful and designed to be shared. Diners can expect dishes such as lentil parfait, glazed with Pedro Ximinez and served with house brioche; a tartare of tofu with sesame puff, or grilled octopus, sobrasada and fennel.
298 RATHDOWNE STREET, CARLTON NORTH henrysugar.com.au
AROUND THE TRAPS
THE TERRACE BOMBAY SAPPHIRE POP UP AT ALUMBRA
CHINESE NEW YEAR MELBOURNE FESTIVAL 2017 From 27 January until 12 February, Chinese New Year Melbourne Festival’s Year of the Rooster
Make the most of the last month of summer at The Bombay Sapphire Sunset Garden at Alumbra’s Terrace! Alumbra is partnering with Bombay Sapphire to present a limited time pop-up for after work drinks every Friday from 5pm. This outdoor retreat will have a glamping theme, creating the ultimate post-work chill out spot to unwind before your weekend kicks off. Relax and unwind while sipping on the newly fashioned $10 Garden Gin, or try Alumbra’s new Sunset Fizz Cocktail Jug, which is the perfect beverage to accompany the many NYC-inspired street eats
celebrations present a fantastic cultural experience for locals and visitors alike, offering spectacular lighting installations, cultural performances and above all, food! Over the 17 days, Year of the Rooster festivities will be held across the city; from Queensbridge Square to Queen Victoria Market, Chinatown, the Chinese Museum, Melbourne Zoo, Eureka Skydeck, Southgate and Docklands. The Year of the Rooster represents fidelity and punctuality – so get punctual and book your Chinese New Year Dinner in Chinatown now! www.cnymelbourne.com.au
by Daniel Wilson (Huxtaburger) that are on offer. alumbra.com.au/weekly-events/friday-the-terrace
SUSTAINABLE LIVING FESTIVAL – THE GREAT LOCAL LUNCH The Great Local Lunch is a celebration of community, food, farming and gardening in the heart of Melbourne. Join over 200 backyard growers, food lovers and local farmers to share the fruits of their labour in a four course feast of locally produced food. Host Costa Georgiadis from ABC’s Gardening Australia will unearth gardening, cooking, recipes and sustainability tidbits, and also introduce Melbourne food scene movers and shakers to those who attend. You can also win tickets to the Event! Post your local lunchie (a selfie of you and your lunch) to social media and be in the running to win one of 50 double passes to the festival. You can also register as a grower and describe what home grown goodies you’ll contribute to the feast, donate your produce and receive two tickets to the Great Local Lunch as a result. www.slf.org.au/event/great-local-lunch
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TINKER WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY THE EDIBLE IMAGE
Move over avocado, it’s all about the smashed peas. Well at least it
The creative menu at Tinker is inspired by, fresh and healthy eating,
is at Northcote’s latest foodie hotspot, Tinker.
with some indulgent options thrown in for good measure.
With the likes of Legacy, Temperance Society and Penta under their
“We’ve opted to go for more greener, plant-based dishes while
belts, you could say these guys are veterans in the Melbourne café
taking into consideration those that like to indulge in the naughtier
game. Now, the Mischievous Little Dreamers team has ventured
side,” co-owner Adam Vocale says. “Our food is creative, colourful,
northside with their latest project to High Street, Northcote.
fresh and healthy and mixed with the right ingredients that simply work.”
By mid-morning on a weekday Tinker is packed; with the noisy chatter of hungry café-goers and the hum of the coffee machine
For breakfast, you can feast on classics like eggs benedict, chilli
soothing dozens of caffeine hounds. Inside you’ll find a sleek,
scrambled eggs and the picture-perfect acai bowl teamed with
minimalist-style fit out with plenty of exposed brick and concrete
granola, coconut infused yoghurt, peanut butter, fresh fruit and
and the occasional pop of colour. My pick for the best seats in the
bee pollen.
house are the bar stools at the front, the perfect spot to watch the world go by with a strong cup of coffee.
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If you prefer things on the sweeter side, don’t miss the jaffa hotcake
grana padano and ginger dressing; or maybe go the breakfast
topped with zesty orange curd, vanilla mascarpone and chocolate-
bowl.
swirled meringue pieces. The drinks list does not disappoint either, towing the line between There are also plenty of gluten free, vegetarian and vegan options,
healthy and decadent. On the healthy end, you will find the
so customers with specific dietary requirements are not limited.
beetroot smoothie chock-full of fresh berries, granola, beetroot, yoghurt, honey and orange juice; or on the naughtier side, the
My pick of the brunch menu is the smashed peas on sourdough
peanut butter and raspberry smoothie or salted caramel milkshake
with a brushstroke of beetroot labne, topped with micro greens,
doesn’t disappoint.
haloumi, a perfectly poached egg and black quinoa. Art on a plate. Single origin and filter coffee is made with Maker Fine Coffee, with Another crowd pleaser and inevitable Instagram favourite is
Dimattina Coffee Roasters providing the custom house blend. Or
the mango and saffron panna cotta - almost too pretty to eat
if you’re planning a boozy brunch, there’s no better way to get the
(emphasis on the almost!) with vanilla, almond cranberry granola
morning started than with a Bloody Mary or Espresso Martini.
and coconut. It’s a pity I only have one stomach so couldn’t try more of the At lunch things get a little ‘meatier’, with dishes like pulled lamb,
delicious menu! At least there is an excuse to go back. Tinker is
and a taste bud-tantalising buttermilk fried chicken burger
definitely one to add to your northside brunch bucket list. Just get
sandwiched between a brioche bun and topped with chipotle slaw,
here early; this place is always pumping!
smoked cheese and a side of rosemary salted fries. A healthier but equally tasty option might be the miso-baked salmon with sesame
TINKER
red cabbage, edamame salad and fried basil.
235 High Street Northcote
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If you are still detoxing into the New Year, opt for the Summer
03 9482 5264
Detox Salad bursting with fresh vegetables, wild rice, walnuts,
tinkernorthcote.com.au
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PETER GUNN | IDES WORDS MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY REBECCA NEWMAN CANDID MEGAN OSBORNE
Kiwi-born Peter Gunn is kicking goals at IDES in Collingwood, curating creative cuisine in a comfortably classy setting. The young Gunn has earned his stripes at establishments such as Logan Brown (Wellington), Ezard, Royal Mail Hotel, and most recently with a stint as Sous Chef at the
I JUST REALLY LIKE THE CONSTANT FLUX THAT A KITCHEN IS ALWAYS IN... THAT THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY IS ALWAYS IN.
globally recognised Attica. Working his way up through the normal chain of kitchen command, The shy and self-proclaimed ‘socially awkward’ Peter Gunn says he found
the first time that creativity came into the picture for Gunn was while
comfort and familiarity early on in commercial kitchens—somewhere he
working at the now closed Martin Bosley’s Yacht Club in Wellington. The
says social graces are strangely rendered irrelevant. “You’re wanted for
restaurant served up a dessert ice cream dish, that always had three ice
what you can do, rather than who you are,” says Gunn.
creams, three sauces and three garnishes. “There was no method to that
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madness or rules to those dishes,” Gunn says, which really sparked his interest. Naturally he started experimenting with things like saffron ice cream, “Once I’d gained a bit of confidence with the guys,” he assures us. Gunn flipped a coin over whether to go to Sydney or Melbourne after working in various hospitality venues in New Zealand. When the fateful flip landed him in the latter, he first applied for a position with Ben Shewry at Attica — an establishment he’d heard great things about from colleagues — but there were no current openings. Gunn worked at Ezard for a year before applying to Attica for a second time, only to again be turned away. Not one to rest on his laurels, Gunn went on to the Royal Mail Hotel, where he realised country isolation was definitely not for him. Getting in touch with Attica again and with the same result, the young (and relentless) chef decided to go travelling. On the way back to Melbourne from Japan, Gunn contacted Shewry from Attica one last time. Persistence or talent or both saw Peter Gunn become a Junior Sous Chef at Attica, before moving up to the position of Sous Chef.
I’M NOT TRYING TO CHANGE THE WORLD, I’M JUST TRYING TO ENJOY WHAT I DO, WHILST LEARNING MORE ABOUT WHAT I LOVE After some time at Attica, Gunn started another side project: IDES. What was initially a monthly pop up focusing on experimental dinners, IDES became a restaurant on Smith Street, Collingwood in early 2016, three years later. The concept of the monthly pop-up was essentially new dishes being tested on willing diners. After opening the bricks and mortar restaurant, Gunn has since pared back the rate at which experimentation takes place—but not too much. Gunn vastly separates IDES from restaurants that have reliably constant menus. “Signature this, signature that,” Gunn says, is definitely not his style, preferring to be constantly creative. Upon opening, IDES received some backlash from diners who said the experience was inconsistent due to the regularly changing
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menu – but, as per the monthly pop-ups, the dishes that were coming out
Names or locations of where products are from aren’t promoted in the
were very fresh. The feedback resulted in more behind the scenes refining
restaurant, says Gunn, who was sick of hearing where something was
to prepare dishes for more accessible consumption.
from when dining out, rather than the reasons as to why that produce was better than others of its kind. “But I can go to sleep at night knowing
Inspired by the Tuesday chef’s table process Attica used to do, IDES now
it is the best, and I just want people to enjoy themselves,” Gunn says.
runs sample tables to test out newly-developed dishes. Two tables are
He admits to spending a lot of time and fascination on finding perfect
allocated every Wednesday and Thursday for four people each, which
produce. “It’s really digging deeper to find out what activates them, what
is essentially a condensed version of the original monthly pop-ups for
activates flavour,” he says. For example, Gunn questions; what makes a
those that have a more open and adventurous side. The dishes that are
great chicken? Is it free range, or corn fed? What drives an ingredient’s
successful from these evenings make their way onto the more widely
popularity, and why? Is it ethics, taste, or a combination of both?
digestible degustation menu at IDES. It’s clear Gunn relishes the education and information he unearths while The team at IDES are versatile, and Gunn has good things to say about
endeavouring to find top quality produce. While the end goal might be
the value they bring to the kitchen. “I’m big on utilising peoples’ skillsets.
to know he’s serving the best, the discovery in itself is rewarding. “I’m
Everybody thinks they are, but not everybody is good at everything. There
not trying to change the world, I’m just trying to enjoy what I do, whilst
are some people that are all-rounders, but then there are some people that
learning more about what I love,” says Gunn.
excel in one area.” He’s realistic as well about the way the team has and will continue to evolve over time. “Everyone is presented with an opportunity
So what flavours can you expect when dining at IDES? Cooking what’s in
at some point that they need to take.”
season is a no-brainer, says Gunn, and tries to avoid mentioning it. “Seasonality – I never even incorporate the word. Because it’s so raw and
IDES incorporates a unique and inclusive element to the service, where the
fresh, it’s all seasonal,” he says, likening chefs or restaurants that use the
kitchen team plays a further role in delivering your food to the table. Sure,
word ‘seasonal’ to those that do complete menu changes (e.g. A spring
it’s economical, but it’s also fascinating for those who want to know more
menu). With the ever-evolving dishes at IDES and the inherent seasonality,
about the technique used, or ingredients featured, to quiz the chef who
Gunn tell us, “You forget to apply those tags to the menu.” A recent visit
made it face to face. It breaks down the barrier between diner and kitchen,
by GRAM saw us experience mango with truffle honey, elderflower syrup,
increasing vulnerability, but encouraging inquisitive natures.
sweet chardonnay vinegar, cocoa nibs, chopped toasted pistachio, and
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grated Gyetoste. A standout item was a tomato dish that Gunn tells us
Gunn uses moleskin notebooks – quite a few – to jot down ideas. “There’s
has “so much going on in what looks like a simple dish”. In this instance,
no real reason for it, but it’s just to keep my mind sharp and to keep that
the tomato is blanched, peeled, cut, stamped, scraped. Then the scraped
creativity flowing,” he says. Looking back on it sparks ideas that would
inside is used to make a marinade from the juice, with which the shells
otherwise have been forgotten, he tells us. After all, “How do you know if
are soaked in — and that’s scratching the surface of the process. Even so,
you’ve forgotten an idea?”
Gunn tells us, “We don’t look to any sort of molecular, science-based or technique-based cooking.”
Gunn avoids trends, and the nature of IDES doesn’t really lend itself to the concept. Sometimes he looks way back for inspiration with his cooking,
Gunn tries to direct dishes to be whole, complete offerings, rather than
an idea that he jokes about as being naff, but ultimately useful. He also
an amalgamation of pre-prepared elements. “Over the years, dishes have
enjoys garnering inspiration from other restaurants; not just from the food
just become a whole bunch of mise en place on a bowl,” he says. Think of
but also the service, the placing of cutlery and even the napkins. He jokes
desserts that you’ve eaten previously. Imagine a slice of cake, paired with
about a cookbook he once picked up for his brother — a chef as well —
a scoop (or quenelle if we’re going to be fancy) of ice cream. Maybe a light
on Alinea (Chicago). A young Peter Gunn thought it was really cool, even
sponge, a crumble, a sauce, and a garnish or two. It’s all been taken from
though he didn’t understand a lot of the terms in it. Today, Alinea is one of
individual creations, stored away in the kitchen. Not that there’s anything
his biggest inspirations, and in his top list of restaurants that he’s dined at
wrong with that process — it’s organised and widely utilised — but Gunn’s
(apparently he’s trying to convince his wife to go a second time).
creativity is taking him in a different direction. “I’m trying to steer away from that kind of cooking,” Gunn tells us, aiming for the experience to be
It’s clear having a creative outlet is one of the driving factors of Gunn’s
to eat “downward”, rather than sampling lots of different elements to a
interest in the hospitality scene, but he tells us what keeps him intrigued is
dish.
that “Every single day is different”. What some chefs might find hectic, or infuriating, Gunn appreciates as a necessity to avoid boredom. “I just really
Having been touted as offering ‘technique-driven’ food, Gunn laughs and
like the constant flux that a kitchen is always in, or that the hospitality
questions this; ‘What do you mean by technique?’ Yes, he’s acquired skills
industry is always in.” From ingredient delays to delivery mishaps, it keeps
over time, but he tells us he’s not going to employ a fancy process of
him on his toes. “The Unknown,” Gunn calls it. “It’s exciting, it’s frustrating,
cooking something just for the sake of it, and at the end of the day, it’s
but that’s what I really enjoy about it.”
more about the flavour and exploring new ways to enjoy great food.
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MADE FRESH WITH LOCAL MILK – HANDSTRETCHED – NO PRESERVATIVES - NO ARTIFICIAL COLOURS #thatsamorecheese
LA TORTILLERIA
WORDS EMMA LYONS PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BRUCE
Mamasita introduced Melburnians to their first alternative to Tex Mex food
This was back when Tex Mex reigned supreme in Australia, Hull says. Fast
back in 2011. Since then, the public’s demand for the hot, smoky and acidic
food created in The States such as nachos or burritos still clouded the
flavours of authentic Mexican cuisine has increased a million-fold.
average Australian’s perception of Mexican food.
Before Mamasita, genuine Mexican dining was one of the last remaining
Hull concedes that Tex Mex still has its place, but shared a desire with Lopez
cuisines yet to be explored in Melbourne’s culinary landscape – but now, as
to see Mexican food more faithfully represented – and so La Tortilleria was
more and more real Mexican joints and food trucks appear, it has become
born.
clear we have a full-blown food movement on our hands. Dubbed as the “Mexican Wave” by food commentators, Mexican food is now a permanent
Open a place that serves up a zingy ceviche, a delicious smoky mescal and
fixture in Melbourne’s food culture.
voila, the dream is realised, right? Not for Hull and Lopez. Melbourne was experiencing the first swells of the ‘Mexican Wave’, and ambitious chefs
Opening its doors in 2013, La Tortilleria are the unsung heroes of this food
were already beginning to deliver those punchy Mexican flavours when
wave in Australia. The only authentic tortilleria in Melbourne, their tortillas
the idea for La Tortilleria emerged.
and totopos embody a real corn flavour previously only found in the foodstuff’s home country. Since its inception, this small-scale operation
But for Hull and Lopez, something was still falling short at these
has rapidly expanded–and it’d be pretty safe to say that if you’ve eaten
establishments – the tortillas. “You can’t open a restaurant and showcase
Mexican food in Melbourne, you have tried one of their tortillas.
proper Mexican food if you don’t have tortillas made the way that the Aztecs and Mayans them,” Hull says. “You can’t just cop out and make
The foundations of modern Mexican gastronomy are inherited from ancient
them out of processed cornflour.”
Aztec and Mayan cultures, and at La Tortilleria, it is understood that if you want to deliver bona fide Mexican dining, you need to know your history.
On this point Hull is adamant, and rightly so. Corn is the heart and soul
All of the establishment’s tortillas are produced using ancient nixtamal
of Mexican cuisine, with nearly every meal or street snack served with a
methods, a process that dates back to around 1500 BC. With only a few
tortilla. For Hull and Lopez, it was a no-brainer: they would need to open
mechanical tweaks added, this is about as traditional as it gets!
their own tortilleria.
The idea behind La Tortilleria was always to introduce Melbourne to
So how does the nixtamal process work? As is often the case with artisan
authentic Mexican cuisine. A child of Mexico City, La Tortilleria Owner
foods, it is a simple process that takes a long time to master. Water
Gerardo Lopez wanted to recreate the flavours of his homeland for the city.
enriched with limestone is used to unlock the natural flavours and textures
“Gerardo’s dream was always to open an Mexican restaurant in Australia,”
of corn. After cooking and soaking the corn overnight, it is ground between
explains Lopez’s business partner, Australian born Dianna Hull. “He is so
Mexican volcanic stones to produce a thick yellow dough called masa, with
passionate about Mexican food and he just really wanted to show what
a pinch of sea salt added to finish.’
Mexican food really is; that all this hard shell taco stuff is so off the mark!” Machinery, which can be found in tortillerias up and down the streets of Hull got involved in the tortilla business after she moved to Mexico City to
Mexico, presses the masa into discs, which are then cooked until golden
study. Hull says she was instantly struck by the vibrancy of the city’s once
yellow. The smell is wholesome and intoxicating.
infamous street food. “I realised how amazing Mexican food actually is! It was like a whole new cuisine opened up to me, [which is something] that
Whilst this all sounds pretty simple, there are so many hidden complexities
most Australians hadn’t experienced,” Hull says.
that many novices find it difficult to master the art of tortilla-making.
19
La Tortilleria head-hunted Isaac Nava, a fourth generation nixtamal tortilla
been to Mexico completely hooked on the tradition of coming in with their
maker from central northern Mexico, to oversee their process.
own tortilla cloth, just like they do in Mexico!”
Before La Tortilleria, the only tortillas widely available in Australia were
Melbourne’s Mexican community made it very clear that Hull and Lopez
either imported frozen products, or made from processed and imported
had a good thing going. “For the first six months, half the customers were
cornflour. Often packed with preservatives to induce long shelf life, these
Mexican,” Hull says. “We had people nearly crying at first, saying that they
mass-produced flatbreads aren’t quite the same as the real deal. If you
hadn’t smelled that smell for twenty years. They get so emotional because
really want to understand what sets traditional tortillas apart from their
it’s such big part of Mexican life. It’s every meal; every street snack. It’s the
listless cornflour counterparts, simply serve them warmed, with just
cornerstone of Mexican cuisine. I guess it would be like if you hadn’t eaten
a touch of salt and squeeze of lime. The corn flavour is simple, but this
bread in ten years, but maybe even more intense.”
ancient process really makes them sing. La Tortilleria’s fan base has only continued to grow. Setting the gold La Tortilleria have quickly realised their goals. Four years after opening,
standard in Australia, many chefs all over the country will only use their
their cobalt blue premises could no longer keep up with the demand of their
nixtamal tortillas. You can find La Tortilleria tortillas in all of your favourite
rapidly expanding wholesale business, and the tortilla-making operation
Melbourne institutions: Mamasita, Smith & Daughters, Los Hermanos. But
has been moved elsewhere. Now, the Torilleria premises, adorned with
take the trip out to Stubbs Street; you will find a cheery anomaly, nestled
Mexican flags and paintings of Frida Kahlo, operates solely as an eatery.
among dreary Kensington warehouses, pumping out the scents and tunes of Mexico City. The tacos el pastor, sliced from the iconic pineapple-topped
That said, the two operations are still inextricably linked. “It looks like a
kebab, street food style, are not to be missed. Get the margaritas flowing
restaurant and acts like a restaurant, but it is more like a show room for the
and you will soon be feeling La Tortilleria’s low-key, street party vibe. And
[wholesale] product,” Hull says.
don’t forget to grab a pack of tortillas to keep the party going at home!
Despite the commercial success of La Tortilleria and their ever-expanding
LA TORTILLERIA
customer base, the pair hasn’t lost sight of their original aims - to educate
72 Stubbs Street
Melburnians about Mexican food. “In Mexico, everyone just goes to the
Kensington
tortilleria and buys a kilogram of tortillas and that is the market there; but
03 9376 5577
here, we had to get people [on board],” Hull says. “It’s so funny though –
latortilleria.com.au
within a couple of months of opening, we had Australians who had never
20
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21
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
CUPCAKE CENTRAL’S CEREAL SHAKES Just in case you weren’t already enamoured of Cupcake Central’s excellent red velvet cupcakes, their delightful cake-making workshops and just all-round good time vibes, Cupcake Central has launched a range of cereal shakes. The use of cereal milk in desserts has been a massive thing in the States for some time now (think Momofuku Milkbar in New York’s DELICIOUS cereal milk ice cream and milkshakes), but Cupcake Central is getting on the front foot in Oz. The cake store’s version of the delicious shake will be a blend of cereal and milk topped with whipped cream, marshmallow fluff and cereal, and will come in two different flavours including Fruity Crunch with Fruity Pebbles and Captain Crunch cereal; and Choc Cereal, just like the chocolatey milk left at the bottom of a bowl of Coco Pops.
HEILALA VANILLA The multi award-winning Heilala Vanilla is now available for purchase at Coles and Woolworths supermarkets across Australia! Hailed
throughout
Australasia
for
There will be more flavours made available in future and the shakes will be available all day from Wednesday 25th January 2017. YURGHM. WWW.CUPCAKECENTRAL.COM.AU
its
exceptional freshness and rich, creamy flavour, Heilala Vanilla is used at restaurants, cafes, gelaterias and patisseries including Gelato Messina, Black Star Pastry and Zumbo Patisserie.
produced in Tonga, and is named after the national flower of its origin – and unlike lots of other vanilla products on the market, Heilala is vanilla in a pure form, capturing the natural flavour of the vanilla bean without artificial flavours or additives. Heilala Vanilla uses traditional methods of blanching, curing and drying to develop the 300 vanilla flavour components that are really complementary to baked goods and sweets – particularly for raw, sugar free and wholefood recipes for all those healthy lovers out
there. Heilala Vanilla
products are also gluten and dairy free. WWW.HEILALAVANILLA.COM.AU
22
Proof is in the Pudding is a Bespoke Boutique Bakery delivering Melbourne delicious desserts from their carefully developed
Pronounced ‘hey la la’, Heilala Vanilla is
food
BE MY VALENTINE - Proof is in the Pudding recipes which use only the highest quality ingredients and an abundance of love. The eggs are free range from the Mornington Peninsula, fresh produce from local Melbourne markets, fresh Australian dairy, and the chocolate... Belgian Couverture of course! They exclude artificial preservatives and focus on old fashioned techniques and rich depth of flavour. Each dessert is individually handcrafted with the utmost care and attention to detail. They even work with you to create your dream dessert for any occasion! We all know the way to another’s heart is via their stomach so this Valentine’s Day enjoy a Proof is in the Pudding 4-course Dessert Degustation. It will be an intimate event, available by reservation only, with very few seatings on offer. Nothing but good food, good company, and good music. BE SEDUCED BY THE MENU AT: www.proofisinthepudding.com.au/be-my-valentine.html
Valentine’s Day
Gift guide
COUPLES CRAFT BEER EXPERIENCE
THE SCHALLER STUDIO BENDIGO Escape the city and find yourself in Bendigo this Valentine’s Day.
Does that special person in your life consider themselves a craft beer lover?
Ben’s Brew Tours has the perfect
Valentine’s gift that you can both share! Southern Stars Brewery Tour Recently launched, this tour explores the newest and best kids on the block in the southern suburbs of Melbourne. Try the latest barrel aged wonders from award winning brewers
Feel spoilt for choice by the abundance of cafes and restaurants, and enjoy the lush surrounds of Bendigo. After a day spent exploring all the sights, sounds and smells of Bendigo, crash among the bold and brilliant artworks of Mark Schaller at The Schaller Studio. With beautiful rooms, the fresh taste of The Pantry downstairs and a beautifully styled lounge area, The Schaller Studio will complete your romantic weekend getaway.
(Ph): 1800 278 468 THESCHALLERSTUDIO.COM.AU
at Boatrocker, learn brewing tips from the guys at Dainton, enjoy a delicious lunch at Bad Shepherd and much more. Transport, lunch, generous tastings at all venues, take home goodies and discounts at each venue all included in the ticket price.
SPECIAL OFFER! Ben’s Brew Tours are spreading the love and offering 25% off ‘Southern Stars’ tour.* Instructions: Use code BBTVDAY at checkout.
Who is Ben’s Brew Tours? Ben’s Brew Tours is Melbourne’s first sole craft beer tour operator offering a unique behind the scenes craft beer experience. They have collaborated with some of the city’s best brewers, stockists and specialty bars to bring you one step closer to your favourite brews.
FROM MILK TO CHEESE
Cheese Making Class for Beginners Book a unique experience this year for your loved one: our cheese making class will teach you how to make authentic fresh mozzarella from one of Australia’s most acclaimed cheesemakers, Giorgio Linguanti.
Gift Cards also available
The class will explain the cheese making process starting from the most important
Get on board Ben’s Brew Tours gift vouchers. Choose a
ingredient, milk. Giorgio will introduce the ingredients involved in transforming a
specific tour or amount. Check out our website to purchase!
few litres of milk into cheese! With hands-on instructions, participants will learn all
All vouchers valid for 12 months.
the secrets of making Italian style cheese: from making delicious creamy ricotta, to
Cheers and Hoppy Valentine’s Day from the team at Ben’s
creating mozzarella and shaping that mozzarella into bocconcini. Participants will also
Brew Tours.
make “primo sale”, the mother of all cheeses! Two dates available. THAT’S AMORE CHEESE
Terms and conditions apply.
www.thatsamorecheese.com.au
*Offer valid from 1 - 14 February 2017, booking valid for 12 months.
Book online: www.thatsamorecheese.com.au/book-a-class
24
25
CHEESE MASTER
WILL STUDD
WORDS LAUREN BRUCE
It would be difficult to talk about Australian cheese without bringing up Will
After establishing wholesale businesses in England, Studd fell in love with
Studd.
an Australian girl who “dragged me over here to Australia” to live. Studd says he was surprised at the lack of cheese options in Australia at the time.
After a long time in the cheese profession, importing, wholesaling,
“The only cheese around in Australia in 1981 was really… it was all about
consulting and promoting cheese in general, Studd has well and truly
commodity, commodity, commodity,” Studd says. “[The Australian] dairy
embedded himself in this country’s food narrative. Studd’s show Cheese
industry has been built on the basis of selling butter and cheddar to other
Slices is broadcast to hundreds of millions of people all over the world, and
countries. It was all about [trade].”
his books are considered “cheese bibles”, devoured by dairy enthusiasts everywhere.
It was this lack of variety that drove Studd to set up his wholesale imported cheese business in Australia, to sell traditional European cheeses. “In those
Like many people in the food industry, cheese wasn’t something Studd set
days, every producer had to have a special quarantine permit, and every
out to make his life’s work - when he left university, he set out to be an
imported cheese had to have a label that matched up with the permit. So
accountant. “The profession didn’t really suit me,” Studd says. “I didn’t have
when I started importing European specialty cheeses, and as a migrant to
the right [personality] to be a good accountant.”
a new country, I really wanted to see Australia producing its own specialty cheese.”
The interest in cheese began in London, where Studd worked at a “very posh” food shop called Justin de Blank, where he was exposed to top-end
Studd started working with Richard Thomas and Laurie Jenson, the men
farmhouse cheeses that began his love affair with the foodstuff.
behind the famous Gippsland Blue – now Tarago River – cheese. “They came to me and said, ‘Oh, we’ve got this new blue we want to produce and we’d
“...CHEESE IS ONE OF THOSE THINGS… EVERY CHEESE IS DIFFERENT, AND THERE ARE JUST SO MANY DIFFERENT EXPERIENCES, IT WOULD BE SO WRONG TO PICK OUT ONE AS THE BEST ONE.”
love you to distribute it because we know you’re selling European cheese.” Studd says in those days, no one wanted to pay the sort of premium needed to produce quality cheeses such as the Gippsland Blue in Australia. “That was the first farmhouse blue cheese made in Australia,” Studd says. Studd went on to work with other cheese makers in the country, getting
Studd says he remembers discovering the flavours of good cheese and
thoroughly involved in the local cheese scene. About ten years later, Studd
realising how different they were to the vacuum-packed stuff in supermarkets,
sold his wholesale business to King Island Dairy, initially staying on with
and it wasn’t long before he engaged others in his new-found passion. “The
them to help them market the label.
nice thing about cheese is that you can actually demonstrate it by getting people to taste it. So I started talking about it and people started listening.
It was his experiences within the corporate cheese production environment,
I could explain it by saying, ‘Try this and you will taste the texture and the
combined with reforms to cheese production and trade laws in Australia,
smell; you will realise it’s a really interesting food,’” Studd says.
that prompted Studd to form the Australian Specialist Cheesemakers’
26
Association to lobby the Government to reverse the banning of production
Studd says he hopes the laws will change, but isn’t holding his breath. “I
and sale of raw milk cheese in the early 2000s. “In those days, I still
would predict the change will be political, not scientific – [possibly] with
considered myself the Pied Piper of Australian Cheese,” Studd laughs.
Brexit, and Australia trying to have closer ties with the EU, the cynic in me says that’s would be [what instigates] change. It won’t be people like me
“I learned in forming the association that associations are very political,
arguing the science. It’ll be trade.
and my views about raw milk cheese weren’t shared by everyone, and many thought I was undermining the industry with my [stance on raw milk
“But I’m not a politician, that’s the problem. My connection to cheese is
cheese regulation],” Studd says.
emotional. It’s driven by what it represents, people, flavours. I’m not into the politics of cheese. That’s not why I got into it.”
“PEOPLE ARE LOOKING FOR PROVENANCE, BECAUSE SO MUCH OF THE FOOD WE EAT IS PRODUCED ON SUCH A SCALE THAT WE HAVE NO IDEA WHERE IT COMES FROM AND WHAT IT REPRESENTS”
It was through Studd’s passion for traditional cheese-making that Cheese Slices was born. “The power of TV is huge. And the purpose of Cheese Slices was to educate and to learn as well. If you can show people in pictures and in an entertaining way why traditional cheese is important and show the way it’s made, [my theory has been that] it would break down the barriers [and the perception] that it’s a really dangerous product.” Studd says Cheese Slices has been about trying to explain how the rest
Studd stood down from the Association and challenged the government on
of the world makes cheese, while raising awareness of raw milk cheese
their regulations around Roquefort cheese. He says he didn’t understand
production in the process. “In Australia, we lack a choice [to consume raw
why it was being banned in Australia. “Roquefort has always been sold in
milk cheese]. You’ve got to ask yourself, are we so precious that we’re not
Australia. It’s been made in France for thousands of years with raw cheese
able to consume raw milk cheese? If it’s so dangerous, why is production
milk, and it’s sold [all over] the world,” he says.
allowed in [so many other] countries? Are we just too lazy to develop rules around the production of raw milk cheese?”
After Studd and others got behind the move to change the regulation of Roquefort, the production of the cheese was eventually allowed in
Raw milk agenda aside, Cheese Slices has grown quite a following, with
Australia as an exception to the raw milk regulations. But Studd says
viewers now reaching around 200-300 million people across the globe.
there’s still much to be done in changing the attitude towards raw milk
Studd says he attributes its popularity to the frustration over our lack of
cheese in Australia.
knowledge around where our food comes from, given much of our food is created in mass-produced, over-industrialised environments.
“There’s more awareness about traditional cheeses and there’s more producers, but the truth is, it’s still Struggle Street for cheese producers,”
“People are looking for provenance, because so much of the food we eat
He says. “It’s still very political, and it’s still very difficult for producers to
is produced on such a scale that we have no idea where it comes from and
define themselves as a genuine point of difference to the large producers.”
what it represents,” Studd says. “Cheese is a very old fashioned food going back thousands of years. It’s a genuine and traditional food that really reflects where it comes from.
28
“I think when you eat a piece of really good, well-made traditional cheese, you are really sharing in the provenance of a particular region, in the sensation of taste or smell or texture. It’s that connection with something that you don’t get from food [produced on an industrial scale]. “And the amazing thing about cheese, it’s not just the cheese – the cheese makers themselves are wonderful. I mean, you’ve got to be seriously, seriously committed to produce farmhouse cheese.” Studd says he is passionate about the rights of small producers in a corporatised, mass-industrialised industry. “The industrial cheese gets me the most upset, where everything tastes the same, everything is driven by the big multinationals, and producers are price takers rather than price setters
“THE POWER OF TV IS HUGE. AND THE PURPOSE OF CHEESE SLICES WAS TO EDUCATE AND TO LEARN AS WELL. IF YOU CAN SHOW PEOPLE IN PICTURES AND IN AN ENTERTAINING WAY WHY TRADITIONAL [RAW] CHEESE IS IMPORTANT AND SHOW THE WAY IT’S MADE IT WOULD BREAK DOWN THE BARRIERS [AND THE PERCEPTION] THAT IT’S A REALLY DANGEROUS PRODUCT.”
[like for example] what’s happened with the milk industry in Australia.” often refer to where [we travel to] Corsica, where they ripen cheese using Studd says he believes there’s a quarter of the number of small family farms
flies, and let the maggots grow in the cheese. People like to talk about that
in Australia today than there was when he first came to the country. “It’s sad
episode; they ask what it was like. Well, you know what? It was great theatre.
for farmers, but it’s also very sad for animals too. A herd of 500 cows has
What did it taste like? I don’t remember - I took a big bite of the cheese and
a very different temperament to a herd of 50,” Studd says. “Animal welfare
the maggots, then took a bit gulp of the wine and just smiled,” he laughs.
comes into it. And the ripple effects of this industrialisation to the cheese industry are huge. That’s why it’s so important to support farmer’s markets
Studd describes another occasion, off-camera, where he and his crew
and small producers.”
stayed with Sardinian shepherds who insisted he eat cheese that had been ripened in the stomach of a sheep hanging from a roof. “They basically take
While Studd’s relationship with the nuts and bolts of the cheese industry
the stomach, fill it with milk, hang it for a couple of months. It dries out and
is complicated, his love for cheese remains unconditional. That said, he
then they crack it open with their very thin Sardinian bread, and wash it
refuses to highlight just one cheese as a favourite. “I’m going to dodge that
down with wine. That was pretty… mmm,” he laughs.
question, because it’s always the last one [I’ve tasted],” Studd laughs. “You know, cheese is one of those things… every cheese is different, and there
“The shepherds were there smiling, going, ‘You gotta eat this Will!’ You
are just so many different experiences, it would be so wrong to pick out
know, very macho. It was like an initiation. They’d be saying, ‘Oh this is very
one as the best one. It’s a bit like asking a parent who their favourite child
good, it’s good for your love life!’”
is. You can’t discriminate like that with so many different cheeses; there’s thousands of them.
Cheese Slices is now available on iView.
Studd says that even the worst cheeses have been a great experience… or at the very least, an experience. “There is an episode of Cheese Slices people
29
RECIPE: JOHNNY DI FRANCESCO’S MARGHERITA PIZZA WORDS AND IMAGES COURTESY OF JOHNNY DI FRANCESCO
Johnny di Francesco shares with us the recipe that won the Pizza World
I have been making pizza since I was 12, so it was crazy to think I had just
Championship in Rome, and talks to us about why he loves Neapolitan pizza,
made the world’s best pizza!
ahead of National Pizza Day. Without a doubt, the secret to this recipe is high quality ingredients - especially The classic margherita pizza is one of my all-time favorites. There is
when it comes to the flour. The dough is so important when you make
something really special about traditional Neapolitan pizza – when you keep
traditional Neapolitan pizza, as it’s the hero of the dish. I also recommend
the ingredients simple, everything has a chance to shine, and equally, there’s
making the dough the day before, because it gives it ample time to rise, and
nowhere to hide! With only tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and basil, this is the
you also won’t be pushed for time and can really perfect it. When it comes
perfect example of less being more. Everything we use at 400 Gradi is fresh
to ingredients, never ever compromise, and never forget that one of the most
and of exceptional quality, and the same should be true of home cooking.
important ingredients is always love!
Of course, this recipe is also special because it won me the Pizza World
If you’re making pizza at home for National Pizza Day, I have one important
Championship. I was honored enough to be representing Australia and really
tip: enjoy it! You can be taught how to make pizza and ingredients can be
didn’t expect to take out the top prize. When I did, I was surprised, but proud.
sourced, but nothing beats passion and having fun in the kitchen.
INGREDIENTS PIZZA DOUGH 1kg “00” flour sieved 30 g fine sea salt 1 g fresh yeast 600 ml water MARGHERITA TOPPING San Marzano tomato Buffalo mozzarella Fresh basil Extra virgin olive oil
METHOD 1. In a bowl, combine water and salt and allow to dissolve. Add 10 per cent of the flour and mix. Mix well. Add more flour and the yeast. Continue to add the remaining flour and mix well until combined. 2. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface; knead until smooth and elastic. This can take up to 10 minutes. Place the dough into a lightly floured bowl, cover with a damp cloth and set aside. Let the dough rest for half an hour. 3. Divide dough into 4-5 round balls. Cover with a damp tea towel and allow the dough balls to rise. This can take up to 10-12 hours. Once the dough has doubled in size, place on a lightly floured bench and stretch the dough by hand. 4. Roll out a 220g round of pizza dough, then spread the San Marzano tomato. Top with buffalo mozzarella, then place four basil leaves on top and drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil. Bake for 10 minutes at 280C in a domestic oven, or for 90 seconds in a woodfire oven.
31
REVIEWS AUCUBA COFFEE ROASTERS - AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG 2017 has just begun and I’m excited about the coffee
kitchen. Nothing is hidden away here; it’s all about the
scene in Melbourne, having sampled some great brews
shared experience.
already. Just before Christmas I stopped in at a little corner cafe in South Melbourne called Aucuba to check
Up until now, there has been no blend. the house coffee
out the space, and of course, taste the coffee. I had the
was previously a single origin from Brazil called Bom Jesus,
pleasure of meeting Mark Knapp who not only owns the
which was perfect for milk-based coffees but not bright
place, but also roasts the coffee. Having the person who
enough for Knapp’s taste. Enter the Age of Enlightenment
buys the beans and roasts them is truly special – you get
– an equal blend of the Bom Jesus with a crisp, clean and
to experience the start, the middle and the end of the
balanced Colombian from Popayan Estate, which now
process.
covers those who drink black or white. There are always Single Estate coffees available and a multitude of batch
Often the person behind the machine provides you with
brew, filter and cold drip options ready to go for those on
their interpretation of how they believe the coffee should
a mission for caffeine.
be extracted, which can sometimes produce amazing results but can also end in disaster. No chance of that
Legend says Aucuba was a weary wise man who crossed
here, with Knapp ensuring all variables are considered and
paths with the goat herder Kaldi on his way to a monastery
every cup is perfect.
in Ethiopia. Kaldi and his goats had recently consumed some red cherries and were acting very strangely. Aucuba
It is this level of care and his desire to share a love of
took some of the berries to the monastery and boiled
specialty coffee that brought Knapp, a qualified Q-
them up for the monks who then stayed awake all night
Grader (accredited coffee-cupper) to Bank Street to
to pray, and the story of coffee as we know it began.
open his passion project in what was once an old bank, and printing press.
A new year also signifies new beginnings and Aucuba has a brand new blend ready to enjoy, so it’s time for
CONTACT www.aucubacoffee.com
Previously co-owner of highly regarded cafe Balderdash
you to start your own journey to coffee nirvana in South
mail@aucubacoffee.com
in Port Melbourne, Knapp wanted to create a space that
Melbourne and become well and truly enlightened.
03 9041 3904
was peaceful and relaxed, away from other cafes, to make this a destination venue. You can choose to sit outside
Available to drink or buy direct, sip yourself into a blissful
or inside near the coffee machine, which is a stunning
state at Aucuba Coffee Roasters: 108 Bank St South
white and navy La Marzocco Strada kitted out by Specht
Melbourne.
Design; or sit in the back room near the roaster and the
COMMUNE OF BUTTONS ABCD CHARDONNAY 2016 Adelaide Hills RRP: $40.00 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BRUCE In the Adelaide Hills, siblings Jasper and Sophie Button
“The fruit flavour development in the chardonnay
are creating some seriously delicious natural wine - and
vineyards came on very early this year before sugars
before you screw up your nose at the sulphur-y, mineral-y
allowing us to make complex wines with low alcohols and
characteristics of this winemaking process, give the very
lingering acidity,” Sophie Button says.
drinkable ABCD Chardonnay a try. The Buttons’ farm at the top end of the Basket Range valley boasts 12 acres
“A component of this wine saw 90 days skin maceration
of vineyards and has been in the family for 20 years, with
in stainless before being pressed, giving a chalky phenolic
their chardonnay grapes harvested from two different
texture to the wine.”
parcels of land in the same valley. There is also a distinct saline minerality showing in the The family moved to natural and organic winemaking
wine that Button says is due to “the 25-year-old vine roots
practice around four years ago, and the fruits (pardon the
[that] have found the sandstone bedrock in the vineyard.”
pun) of their labour are starting to show. Chardonnay is a full-bodied wine which is often avoided The 2016 ABCD Chardonnay is a crisper, more acidic
in the summer months, but this fresh take on the classic
take on the generally warmer, more vanilla-y flavour of a
variety makes it great summer drinking.
chardonnay, while still maintaining the stone fruit flavour often associated with this style of wine.
32
BIG SHED CALIFORNICATOR WEST COAST IPA WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
Wow, is it 2017 already? I must admit I’m one of those
out craftdglass.com), close your eyes and take in the
Gen X-types who still thinks the 90s was like, 10 years
passionfruit, apricot and pine aromas. For a moment,
ago. But no, all my favourite bands are now doing
you’ll think you’re sitting in a brewery in SoCal USA –
20th anniversary album tours, a rather rambunctious
or Royal Park, Adelaide!
fellow is in charge of the free world and Zuckerberg has us all plugged into the Matrix whether you have
If you happen to be in Adelaide in February, a Big
a Face-Gram account or not. But hey, it’s not all bad.
Shed birdy told me they’ll have a one-off batch of
It’s going to be a big year for the Australian craft
Adelaide Hill wet hop ale coming soon, chock-full of
beer world and there’ll be heaps of delicious beers
locally-grown Columbus hops. We might see this in
to enjoy. Speaking of which, let’s have a look at Big
Victoria as well if we’re lucky. Get the Californicator
Shed’s Californicator West Coast IPA.
at selected good beer venues on tap and in bottle around Melbourne and regional Victoria. Cheers!
Big
Shed
is
Californicator
all
about
certainly
big holds
flavour no
and
punches.
their It’s
everything you want from a US-style West Coast IPA; hoppy, aromatic, hoppy, a delightful sweet malt balance, hoppy, smooth mouthfeel… and did I mention it was hoppy? I was lucky to get this quite
BIG SHED CALIFORNICATOR WEST COAST IPA ABV: 7.5% STYLE: West Coast India Pale Ale FOOD PAIRING: BBQ Beef Ribs ORIGIN: Royal Park, SA PRICE (RRP): $23: 4 pack 330ml
fresh (which explains the hop bomb experience), and was super impressed with how well this beer hides
Buy it here: www.bigshedbrewing.com.au
the 7.5% alcohol content. Don’t cheat yourself – make sure to pour this into proper beer glassware (check
BAR/D UP Video Feature - The Gem Bar - Collingwood In collaboration with Young Henry’s Smoked meats, Texan-style BBQ and Southern-themed
room upstairs that you can book, and you get the guys
dishes have taken their rightful place in Melbourne’s
to put on one of their delicious banquets.
food scene and show no sign of disappearing anytime
Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video. Instagram - @bardupmelb Facebook - facebook.com/bardupmelb
soon, which is great for Tonino Cordisco and his venue
The meat is cooked slow, the mood is chilled, and it’s
The Gem Bar in Collingwood. The result of trips to
all about kicking back and relaxing while surrounded
America, extensive research into authentic cooking
by Americana, preferably with a cold beer in your hand.
techniques and even a smoke pit imported from
Don’t worry about what you’re wearing; life shouldn’t
Houston, the focus may be split between bar, dining
be about stress and fuss. Come here, spend your time
and music, but all three are made a passionate priority
and money wisely, they are both very precious... just like
by Cordisco.
The Gem.
When the food, the drinks and the tunes are this good,
THE GEM BAR
you’ve got a winning combo – which draws people into
289 Wellington Street
this very unassuming venue week after week. From 4 -
Collingwood 3066
7pm on Tuesdays to Fridays, you can enjoy half-price
PH: 9419 5170
tacos, wings & Texas fries with $6 pints in the ultimate,
thegembar.com.au
almost never-ending Happy Hour. With the bar open from 12pm Fridays to Sundays if you want to start here earlier on in the day. Be sure to head to their website at the beginning of each month and check the Gig Guide to find out which bands and DJs are featured and plan your visit accordingly. There’s even a private dining
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OUT AND ABOUT SUGAR MOUNTAIN
We recently checked out the Sensory Restaurant at Sugar Mountain Festival, which delighted alllll of the senses and included food by Ides chef Peter Gunn, a concept fit-out by Daniel Arsham and music by Stranger Things composers S U R V I V E.
MATTY MATHESON AT BELLE’S HOT CHICKEN
We also headed to the Belle’s Hot Chicken dinner with Belle’s chef Morgan McGlone and Canadian chef and TV personality, the larger-than-life Matty Matheson joining forces to create a delicious, fried-chicken-filled four course degustation. DELICIOUS.
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THE DIARY 10 - 11 February, 2017
MORNINGTON PENINSULA INTERNATIONAL PINOT NOIR CELEBRATION 187 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
A biennial event hosted by the Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association (MPVA) since 2003. Pinot Noir from around the world is tasted by national and international wine media alongside producers and lovers of Pinot from the US, France, New Zealand and Australia, over the two days of the conference. The two days of Celebration included structured tastings with each session lead by a panel of Pinot producers, writers and thinkers. Tickets include all tastings, lunches, and dinners at selected winery restaurants. Usually held in February. mpva.com.au/events/detail/Pinot-Noir-Celebration
8-10 February, 2017
IRRESISTIBLE ICE CREAM FESTIVAL Yarra Valley Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery - 35 Old Healesville Road, Yarra Glen
144 flavours, ice cream dessert menu and special hosted tasting sessions. Chill out at the Yarra Valley Chocolaterie and Ice Creamery as the company celebrates the end of summer with an annual ice cream festival. Ice cream lovers will be able to indulge in a suite of 144 different artisan flavours crafted by our own team of talented Chocolatiers. Twelve new flavours will be introduced each day the festival for you to try – think old time favourites, classic combinations as well as exotic creations all made fresh using only the finest ingredients. Sugar, gluten and diary free options will be on the menu too so no-one misses out on the fun. Plus, try your ice cream on a pizza, a hot chocolate ice cream float and a host of other decadent desserts inspired by the love of ice cream. Ice cream aficionados will love our dedicated tasting sessions being held during our Festival. For just $18pp you’ll enjoy a 40 minuted hosted tasting of 12 different ice cream flavours in a private tasting area – pre booking essential. Check out the classes section of our website for session times and to reserve your place. So come and get the scoop from February 8 -19 – entry is free and ice creams are priced from $4.80.
18 February, 2017
DELICIOUS SEAFOOD WINE LUNCH Richmond Oysters Oakleigh, 66 Portman Street, Oakleigh
WWW.YVCI.COM.AU/
See what’s on offer at this relaxed, yet informative event. Wine expert Bela Rice will spend three to four minutes talking about each wine as well as provide detailed tasting notes. Bela has 30 years experience as a wine educator and wine judge. On arrival: NV Louis Perdrier Brut Excellence Sparkling Wine (France) Oyster Tasting Plate: Pacific oyster natural, pacific oyster kewpie mayonnaise, Sydney rock oyster natural. Matched with: 2012 Bream Creek Chardonnay (Bream Creek, Tasmania) winetastingevents.com.au/upcoming-events/
29 February 2017
PINOT GRIS VS PINOT GRIGIO CHEESE MATCHING Milk The Cow Carlton - 323 Lygon Street Carlton
Treat yourself to a tasting of three pinot grigio & three pinot gris wines sourced from around the world, matched with a selection of stunning (and surprising) cheeses at Milk the Cow this month. WHEN: Sunday January 29, 2017 from 1pm to 4pm. WHERE: Milk the Cow, Licensed Fromagerie, 323 Lygon Street, Carlton. PRICE: Just $89 per person. It’s the perfect Sunday afternoon with friends. You’ll receive 75ml pours of the following pinot grigio and pinot gris wines and generous servings of the carefully matched cheeses. milkthecow.com.au
18-19 February 2017
APOLLO BAY SEAFOOD AND LOCAL PRODUCE FESTIVAL Burnley Circus Park
The Apollo Bay Chamber of Commerce announced that the sixth annual Apollo Bay Seafood Festival will return bigger and better. Due to popular demand, the festival will run over two days and be held on weekend of February 18th & 19th, 2017 on the Apollo Bay foreshore. Saturday 18th February will kick off from 10am until 9pm, and Sunday from 11am-4pm. Mayor of the Colac Otway Shire Chris Potter said “the Apollo Bay Seafood Festival continues to flourish each year. With it becoming a two day event, there will be even more opportunities to sample its winning combination of local seafood, produce and live music. The Council is delighted to continue its support for this hotly anticipated award-winning festival and urges everyone to come and enjoy this piece of ‘Paradise by the sea’.” Once again the picturesque Apollo Bay foreshore will play host to the Festival, which will be a family-friendly day of cooking demonstrations from local and celebrity chefs, live entertainment, market stalls, locally produced wine and beer and of course, locally sourced seafood. APOLLOBAYSEAFOODFESTIVAL.COM
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