GRAM Magazine Issue 70 // MARCH 2017

GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 70 FREE

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Bendigo in Autumn

Over 50 events are showcased during autumn celebrating Bendigo’s cosmopolitan culture of arts, fashion, food and wine, against a magnificent backdrop of gold rush architecture.

Food Fossicking Tour

BluEs Tram & undErground BanquET

Every saturday

Meet local foodies, go behind the scenes, taste your way around our golden city and fossick for your own food gold. You’ll be weaving your way through the laneways and statues of Bendigo, hearing stories of local history, combined with delicious treats to sample and take home.

31 march & 2 april

From markET To Paddock To PlaTE

rEgional World’s longEsT lunch – BEndigo

Cruise historic streetscapes on board the Bendigo Blues Tram, while listening to sublime musical talent before returning to our local ‘rock star’ restaurant to feast on six shared savoury dishes and a dessert selection to die for.

11 march & 13 may Join Masons of Bendigo hatted restaurant chef Sonia Anthony on an extraordinary excursion to some of the most outstanding food producers in central Victoria, collecting produce for a private evening meal prepared for you and an overnight stay at The Schaller Studio.

31 march

BEndigo craFT BEEr & cidEr FEsTival

sTraTEgEm BEndigo WinEmakErs FEsTival

25 march

29 april

Spend a day in Bendigo with your best crew sampling over 100 beers and ciders, enjoying live music and eating until your heart’s content.

Meet the winemakers of the region, sample hand-crafted red and white wines and feast on delicious regional food in the historic garden setting of Rosalind Park.

Meet the makers and enjoy this tantalising wine and food experience of six courses of regionally sourced food and matching wines under the canopy of the historic Rosalind Park.

En j o y B E auTi F ul B E n d i go i n au Tu m n For more events, accommodation options and things to do over autumn, freecall the Bendigo Visitor Centre on 1800 813 153 or visit:

www.bendigotourism.com

Ma in iMa ge:

Courtesy of The Schaller Studio’s Lekker bikes at Lake Weeroona.

Photography by Lucas Allen.

@explorebendigo #explorebendigo SASI 213579

CONTENTS EATING OUT HOW IS A BANH MI LIKE A BAGUETTE? Mimi Biggadike MELBOURNE’S BEST FROZEN TREATS Megan Osborne

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INTERVIEW

RECIPES

REGULARS

VICTOR LIONG | LEE HO FOOK

CRÈME CARAMEL WITH YUZU

CONTRIBUTORS

4

JELLY AND GOJI BERRIES Adrian Li - Saigon Sally

NOW OPEN

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Lauren Bruce

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AROUND THE TRAPS THINGS WE LOVE

18

FOODIES GUIDE DAYLESFORD Lisa Holmen

28

7 20

SICHUAN HALOUMI

REVIEWS

32

STEAMED BUNS Olivia Oldfield-Beechey

OUT AND ABOUT

34

THE DIARY

35

30

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ON THE COVER: RADISHES The radish (Raphanus raphanistrum subsp. sativus) is an edible root vegetable of the Brassicaceae family that was domesticated in Europe in pre-Roman times. Radishes are grown and consumed throughout the world, being mostly eaten raw as a crunchy salad vegetable. They have numerous varieties, varying in size, flavor, color, and length of time they take to mature. Radishes owe their sharp flavor to the various chemical compounds produced by the plants, including glucosinolate, myrosinase, and isothiocyanate. They are sometimes grown as companion plants and suffer from few pests and diseases. (Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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Jess Hourigan

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

EDITOR

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Lauren Bruce

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

www.grammagazine.com.au

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CONTRIBUTORS If you live in Victoria and, you know, eat, chances are you’re well aware of the amazing breadth of diversity firmly embedded in our food culture.

You’ll also probably be aware that March is a big month

MEGAN OSBORNE

for food here. So many festivals and events, much of them food-focused, are happening around the traps, both in the city centres and out in our beautiful regions.

It’s a time when the food spotlight is firmly focused on us, and fantastic chefs and food and beverage fanatics from all over are coming together to dig a little deeper into what makes food bloody great.

In this edition, we’re focusing on just that—in particular, the Asian influence on our food culture. There are so many exciting things happening in Asian food in this country, particularly in Victoria; and it’s always evolving into something more interesting and

Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine— she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

more varied than what went before.

We might be dining at Lee Ho Fook smashing some delicious Chinizza – a fried pizza base topped with spring onions and mozzarella ­– one day, and eating a $10 Spicy Korean stew at CJ’s Lunchbar in a narrow city lane the next. And we never get sick of it—we are always clamouring for our next Asian food experience, one even more bolder, more nuanced, and more outrageous than the last.

So we hope this edition inspires you all to get out there, get stuck in and brazenly eat your way through our amazing pride-inducing restaurants and produce with as much gusto as your belly allows.

LISA HOLMEN After spending her early years in Adelaide, Lisa moved to Melbourne in her early 20s, also spending time in London. She started her blog lisaeatsworld.com to share her two big passions in life: food and travel.

Lisa’s aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time, and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible.

Lauren Bruce EDITOR

lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

lauren@grammagazine.com.au

DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is best known as one of Melbourne’s foodies and coffeeobsessed, as well as the co-founder of BAR/D UP, an online video directory of our city’s best bars.

Dean shares the things he eats and drinks, plus his own creations across social media. Deans writing celebrates produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.

INSTAGRAM + TWITTER + FACEBOOK: imagesds / bardupmelb E: deany76@gmail.com

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES advertising@grammagazine.com.au EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES editor@grammagazine.com.au DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au 4

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earned a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries, and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking. He is the Founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer, which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop festival.

TWITTER + INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

MIMI BIGGADIKE Mimi Biggadike is a professional chef and freelance journalist. After working as a food consultant, recipe tester and food writer in London for two and a half years, Mimi has set off around the world with an open mind (and mouth). Her skills include knitting, eating, cooking and getting herself into a lot of trouble with her monstrously loud laugh.

You’ll find her in cafes eating cake and writing about her life in the third person. bloggadike.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: bloggadike

DIAVOLETTI CHAMPION 2017 AUSTRALIAN GRAND DAIRY AWARDS

Award Winning Cheeses

#thatsamorecheese

NOW OPEN

WINE 1160

HOLY MOLY

CALIA

Designed as a cosy neighbourhood hideaway, Wine 1160 is set to welcome locals and destination drinkers alike. With a 160-strong wine list, 1160 places wine at the forefront of their offering. The exciting, innovative list sees special, benchmark wines usually only sold by the bottle become available by the glass.

As part of the former Cheers nightclub site overhaul, the newly renovated Untz Untz nightclub (nee Cheers) is set to house pizza pub Holy Moly.

With a sustainably-minded menu created by Michelin Star chef Francisco Javier Araya, located in the heart of the CBD at Emporium Melbourne, new restaurant-to-retail concept Calia is set to be a star Melbourne attraction.

Distinguishing itself from the many food-first watering holes in Melbourne, this is a place where the menu has been created to complement the wine rather than the other way around.

Focused on independent artisanal producers, the wine choices have been carefully based on the values and practices of the makers themselves, and are tailored to an understanding of the preferences of locals.

Wine 1160 is the vision of owner Prabir Majumdar, a political advisor who wished to plant his roots in Melbourne after having spent much of his life on the move. He will use experience gathered throughout his travels (to more than 25 countries) to take his customers on a journey with great wine.

1160 HIGH STREET, ARMADALE www.wine1160.com

Open early March, the two-level venue boasts a 24-hour liquor license and will be serving $5 pizzas by Henry Chan of Lucky Coq and Bimbo Deluxe fame until 3am daily.

On the street level, Cop Shop will be serving coffee and baking cinnamon, jam and Nutella donuts all (damn) day, which due to go live in April 2017.

With Stage One of the renovation (Untz Untz nightclub) now in full swing since May last year and already gaining a cult following, Stage Two (Holy Moly + Cop Shop) is very close to completion with thanks to interior designer and club veteran Michael Delany and artwork by local and independent artist Billie Justice Thompson.

Delany together with the precinct’s Director and fellow club veteran Nick Foley has designed the ultimate hang out, breathing life into the Glenferrie Arcade hub.

Holy Moly will be a shrine to pizza and good times, with Nick Foley collaborating with hospitality consultant extraordinaire Henry Chan [Naked for Satan, Naked In The Sky, The National Hotel, Bimbo Deluxe and Lucky Coq] to create what will be some of Melbourne’s most delicious (and cheapest) pizzas.

660A GLENFERRIE ROAD, HAWTHORN www.facebook.com/holymoly3122

Offering a unique experience, Calia allows diners to try-before-they-buy, sampling high-quality restaurant produce that is also available to take home at affordable prices.

Araya’s Japanese menu is inspired by the best and most ethical produce available, including dishes such as red snapper ceviche, Wagyu MB7 on rice with an onsen egg, shiso and daigon orashi and a decadent rock lobster criossant, mayo-miso, green apple, fennel and radish. The Kaisen Don (sashimi rice bowl) selection is bound to be popular, with tiered options leading up to the ‘Ultimate’: langoustine, scallop, abalone, toro, salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, caviar, salmon roe, uni, wasabi.

Each and every supplier has been carefully considered, with respected seafood and fish supplier Mark Eather venturing into his first-ever retail partnership with Calia, alongside a number of other environmentally friendly products such as Manuka Honey and Milked Osetra Caviar.

Giving Melbourne culinary creatives the opportunity to replicate a touch of luxury at home, the stellar line up of suppliers also includes Robbins Island Wagyu beef, Flinders Island Wagyu beef and meat, Yarra Valley Truffles and Red Hill Truffles, Coffee by Seven Seeds, as well as pastries and bread by Chez Dre and sweet treats

by Bibelot SHOP 8, LEVEL 3, EMPORIUM SHOPPING CENTRE MELBOURNE www.facebook.com/caliaaustralia

MS ELWOOD

Elwood menu suggests you get a little saucy with its mix of classic and innovative dishes.

Ms Elwood is bringing Hawker-style dining to Melbourne’s east! Brought to you by Dan Dixon of The Joinery Elwood fame, Ms Elwood is taking over the Ormond Road space originally destined to become a second Hanoi Hannah establishment.

Soft shell crab pancakes and brisket banh mi are a musthave, and kombu kingfish bowls, Cape Grim flat iron teriyaki, and shichimi chicken are also a goer. Desserts such as matcha doughnuts with yuzu curd and chocolate chilli sauce, and banana sticky rice with honeycomb, offer a modern interpretation of classic Asian flavours.

With delicious modern Asian food offerings along with some creative cocktail creations, the bold-flavoured Ms

Ms Elwood’s cocktail list is possibly the most exciting element of this new venture, which is a collaborative effort

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with Four Pillars Gin that includes Aussie botanicals and Asian-inspired ingredients to work well with the food.

You can expect deliciousness like watermelon-laced gin and tonic, a gin-infused frosé, and a frozen G&T that will refresh even the most hot-and-bothered beverage drinker.

24 ORMOND ROAD, ELWOOD www.mselwood.com

AROUND THE TRAPS

TOP CHEFS RALLY BEHIND THE #COOKFORSYRIA CAMPAIGN Australia’s top kitchen talent is coming together

successful #CookForSyria campaign that began

this month to do their bit for children displaced

in the UK.

by the conflict in Syria for the #CookForSyria initiative.

ATTICA TO RE-OPEN AFTER BRIEF HIATUS AS BEN SHEWRY TAKES THE REIGNS While Attica has been evolving under the watchful eye of Executive Chef Ben Shewry for quite some time, the re-design of the main dining

“I am looking forward to being a part of this

room of arguably Melbourne’s most revered restaurant is the final

campaign alongside a wonderful group of

element of Shewry’s overhaul since he recently gained full ownership

The month-long campaign culminates in a

friends and colleagues, and creating and sharing

of the establishment mid-2016..

spectacular charity dinner held at The Point

dishes that respect the culture of the Middle

Albert Park, Melbourne, which will include some

East,” says Reymond.

of the country’s foremost chefs – such as Andy

The space will be redesigned by Iva Foschia of IF Architecture, who is also known for working with McConnell on his beautiful establishments.

Harmer (The Point), David Thompson (Long

“It’s an incredible honour to be invited to

The focus will be on Australian design and manufacturing, much like

Chim), Karen Martini, Shane Delia (Maha), Frank

participate in this campaign,” adds David

Attica’s menu. The new room will be filled with furniture and other

Camorra (Movida), Victor Liong (Lee Ho Fook),

Thompson. “Having been a visitor to Syria,

elements inspired by mid-century design, either custom-made in

Jacques Reymond and Dave Verheul (Embla).

I strongly believe in the cause and am very

Victoria or repurposed.

much looking forward to an amazing evening, The dinner will showcase the chefs’ iconic

working with my fellow chefs to create an

Along with the change in furnishings, Shewry plans to relocate the bar

signature dishes, with a Syrian-inspired twist.

unforgettable feast, and raising money to help

from the front of the restaurant and unify the more private rooms with

provide life-saving support to children in Syria

the rest of the space.

Jacques Reymond says he is excited about

and surrounding countries who are displaced by

the initiative, which will raise funds nationwide

the conflict.”

Attica will reopen in March.

unicef.org.au/cookforsyria

attica.com.au

for UNICEF Australia’s Syria Crisis Appeal for Children, following on from the immensely

PORT PHILLIP

sat 11 & sun 12 march from 12pm - late CECIL STREET SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET FREE ENTRY AND ENTERTAINMENT

mussel&jazz FESTIVAL 2017

a seafood street party southmelbournemarket.com.au 7

APPLIANCES Accessories Beverage Coffee Makers and Kettles Food Processors Mixers Specialty Toasters

Solutions stock they go out of their way to source it for us or point us in the right direction. DANNY, KENT, MIKE AND MYLES. Owners - Fancy Hanks

“

“

Chef’s Hat always has what we need and if it’s something they don’t usually

CHEF ’S TOOLS Books Cleaning Colanders and Strainers Cooking Utensils Cutting Boards

“

Food Mills and Presses

Equipment

Graters and Peelers Juicers and Reamers Knives Mandolines and Slicers

We use Chef’s Hat as our main supplier for everything from glassware through to pastry cutters. They are an amazing source of

“

nearly every item you could need to run your hospitality business.

CANNON GORDON Hospitality Administrator - Innocent Bystander

Measuring Mixing Bowls Oil and Sauce Dispensers Storage Syrups

Timers, Thermometers and Scales

Inspiration and quality, with knowledgable service that

“

“

When I’m looking for innovative products

always makes you feel like a part of the team, Chef’s Hat always has what I’m after.

DAVID STEWART

Chef and Owner - Ascot Food Store

COOKWARE Dutch Ovens and Braziers Frypans and Skillets

Dedication

“

Grill Pans and Griddles Pizza Trays and Stones Pressure Cookers Roasters

We at the Millhouse are always looked after by the Chef’s Hat

Saucepans

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team. Thanks to the hard work of Chef’s Hat, we feel confident

Saute Pans

in delivering excellent service across all facets of our business.

Stockpots and Casseroles

AUGUSTIN ORTEGA. Chef - The Millhouse

Woks and Paella Pans

BAR AND TABLETOP Barware Crockery Cutlery Glassware Servingware

why the CHEF’S SHOP... www.chefshat.com.au

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HOW IS A BANH MI LIKE A BAGUETTE?

WORDS MIMI BIGGADIKE IMAGES COURTESY OF ANCHOVY, UNCLE AND SAIGON SALLY

Colonisation is well known to leave death and disease in its wake, but also

Even in Melbourne, this coupling of French and Vietnamese cuisine

crème caramel...

continues to evolve among its many Vietnamese establishments.

French rule in Vietnam was established as early as the 17th century.

Saigon Sally is a stylish, sassy Vietnamese restaurant in Windsor where

Dissatisfied with only taking land and government, the colonialists also set

chefs Adrian and Felix are largely responsible for the menu. Both

out to bring with them their own cuisine.

Donovan’s-trained, the pair have bright ideas and even brighter palates.

Their beloved bread and beef became not just part of their daily lives, but

The food is so colourful and creative that Adrian asserts he wouldn’t

steadily spread throughout cooking pots across Vietnam. Such was their

even call it Vietnamese anymore, as the dishes have combined nods to

conquest that they created the dish bò 7 món: seven courses of beef to

multiple cultures; from the Korean-inspired confit octopus to their newly

celebrate the success of the newly established cattle herds in the new

introduced burrata dish. There are still, however, French influences lingering

colony (even to this day, bò 7 món remains a celebratory, high-end dish).

throughout. This is partly due to the aforementioned French invasion of Vietnamese cuisine but also because Donovan’s trains up its chefs with

This point in history is where, thankfully, the Vietnamese start appropriating

French and Italian techniques.

traditions for themselves. French ingredients and French cooking techniques became widely popularised; for example, taking the bones from the

These parallel influences have seen Saigon Sally produce dishes such as

aforementioned beef-feasts and cooking them down with noodles to make

the Kingfish Ceviche, and deservedly famous Tira-Mi-Sally. This glorious,

soup–the humble beginnings of the mighty pho.

French patisserie-inspired dessert consists of piped sheets of macaron, layered with parfait and peanut brittle. Other glorious offerings in their

The link between banh mi and baguettes suddenly becomes obvious. The

sweet section include the Banh Bo Nut, a deep fried Vietnamese doughnut

banh mi’s lighter texture and softness is achieved through the use of rice

served with toasted coconut sorbet. The reason the dough is fried is

flour, sure… but their origins are the same.

because the mixture was once thrown in jest at Adrian in the kitchen, and accidentally landed in the fryer. Delicious!

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338 Bridge Street’s Anchovy is a calmer affair. Here the dishes are based

Flavour balance is so important in Uncle’s kitchen that, although there are

upon dishes the chefs would cook for themselves outside of work; more

set recipes, everything is still put together by taste. One week the lemons

straightforward and self-admittedly moving away from the new wave

may be tarter than usual, the chillies hotter; and so everything needs to be

of experimental Asian cuisine. For the brave and the bloody, there is

adjusted accordingly.

the Vietnamese blood pudding: a quasi-custard made with blood, eggs and cream, it is a recipe drawing from how offal is traditionally eaten in

The recipes are not the only minutely observed elements, however: every

Vietnam. Herbs are passed through the mixture and, once set, it is then

aspect of the process at Uncle is thoughtful and often, local. The pottery

pan-fried with ginger to offset its heaviness and richness.

is made by Rene’s wife of Fork Ceramics (very beautiful indeed) and the staff aprons are hand-crafted by a shoemaker friend. Even the coffee

After working in kitchens all over the world since she was 16, Thi Le opened

beans have been chosen with erudite finesse: a mix between coffee and

the restaurant in August 2015. Anchovy’s soothing interior is designed to

cacao, the coffee is dark and bitter before the condensed milk is added to

not distract from the food; all recipes are a collaboration between the chefs

create something altogether more decadent.

and ingredients are paired and tested through tastings and suggestions.

The whipped tofu, for example, is emulsified like a mayo, then used as a

During its colonisation, there was also a widespread (and continuing)

coating for charred zucchini. It is not so much any kind of influence here

caffeination of Vietnam. The French first introduced coffee beans to the

that creates the dishes as much as a constant process of amelioration. As

country, and today Vietnam is one of the world’s major coffee growers.

Thi put it: “Do what we do, and do it better”.

Although ever varying, Uncle, Anchovy and Saigon Sally state that Rene and Dai are the two men behind Uncle and, I’m sure a lot of people

the origins their dishes are, at the very least, derived from traditional

will have been thrilled to discover, they’ve just opened up a second

Vietnamese cuisine. It is redundant to try and define exactly what that

restaurant on Collins St. It is buzzing yet secluded with an expertly curated

traditional cuisine is, as it possesses a far from immutable history. But

menu. ‘Mum’s chay spring rolls’ proved a particularly thrilling discovery–

Vietnamese cuisine is mercifully one that continues to innovate and thrive.

and Dai’s Mum really makes them! They’re paired with a fermented bean

Go and try Uncle’s prawn banh mi with avocado puree, Saigon Sally’s

curd dipping sauce Dai remembers from his childhood – it’s a balance of

sticky lamb ribs, and maybe even Anchovy’s Strawberry Sorbet with

sweet, salty, sour and spicy flavours, a balancing act which reflects what a

Soursop and Goats Cheese (a playful take on the traditional strawberries

lot of Vietnamese cooking works towards achieving.

and cream), and live it a little for yourself.

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VICTOR LIONG LEE HO FOOK WORDS LAUREN BRUCE IMAGES COURTESY OF LEE HO FOOK

Victor Liong is really making a name for himself as one of the inspiring

It’s all about the real-world experience at the end of the day.

young guns in the Australian food industry. The owner of Lee Ho Fook in

Exactly. And you know, the repetition. They don’t teach you that anywhere.

Melbourne’s CBD, Liong’s exciting vision for Chinese-style cookery is being

They don’t teach you that at school; that life is all about pressure, time

embraced by diners and chefs alike.

pressure.

With a talent for creating dishes that push the boundaries, and mentored by

So tell us a bit about your background prior to opening Lee Ho Fook.

some of Australia’s food elite across his career, it’s difficult to not be caught

I’m from Sydney originally. I did my apprenticeship at a restaurant called

up by Liong’s enthusiasm for cooking.

Galileo. Galileo was a kind of fine dining French restaurant with a lot of Japanese influences and I worked with a chef there, Haru for about two and

We recently had a chat to Liong about his influences, his food and where

half years. He used to work at Robuchon in Tokyo, so it was really kind of

he fits in with Australia’s flourishing food culture and its near-limitless

Robuchon-esque in its execution. It was really cool - I learnt a lot. Back then

opportunities.

it was really… you know, foie gras, caviars… that cool, old school, Frenchstyle fine dining cooking.

So why and how did you become a chef?

I actually wanted to be a stockbroker when I was a kid. And I thought that

After that I floated around for a bit. I worked for a few places in the city

was a great idea, because I assumed you make a lot of money. But then I

trying to find a place that I kind of liked, and I settled at Marque in Surry

thought, scrap that, what do I really want to do? And I realised it was more

Hills, with Mark Best. I worked there for a couple of years, and that was a

just the freedom to do things.

huge influence on what I wanted to do in terms of creativity, in terms of how cool cooking was at that high level. We won Best Restaurant in Australia,

I’ve always kind of liked food, so I thought, yeah cool, I guess when you’re a

Besty was Chef of the Year; it was a great time to work there.

chef you get to do whatever you want when you have your own kitchen, and that sounded really appealing. I also really loved the idea of working with

Marque was modern European; super fine dining. Something like how you

my hands. And also being able to create something that not a lot of people

might say Attica or Vue de Monde is now. One of the cool things about the

can do. So that’s how I became a chef.

restaurant was that it was really small; it only sat 50 people and the kitchen was really small. There were only about five chefs in there at the one time.

But I went to university first, obviously, because I have Asian parents and I

So it was a very chef-driven restaurant, which is pretty cool.

had to get some kind of degree. I started off as an accounting/finance major, and then I realised I was really shit at that, so I did a business management

And you met Ben Shewry (from Attica) around this time?

degree. Once I finished that, I decided I’d become a chef.

I knew Ben, from when I started at Marque. Besty had invited Ben down; it was on my first day at Marque I actually met him.

Useful background though?

Not really. Who uses their degree? No one says, “oh, I’m so glad I went to

So has Shewry been a mentor for you?

university, it taught me so much!” I don’t think even lawyers say that.

Oh you know, every time we bump into each other we talk about stuff.

He gives me pretty good advice. He was quite supportive of me when I

Maybe when you’re a doctor. But you know, I think university’s great in terms

first moved out to Melbourne. He actually ate at Lee Ho Fook last week.

of teaching you how to look at all the issues in the world, using different

Following [meeting him at] Marque, it’s kind of come full circle. He once

kinds of methods, different kinds of ways of thinking, different kinds of

came to the restaurant when it was in Smith St to eat there and brought

philosophies, which I think is great. But in terms of how useful it was? Not

Massimo Bottura with him… so that was pretty stressful, but awesome!

really.

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How much influence did Mark Best have on your cooking style?

Besty’s a mentor from my early days. After Marque, I went to work for Dan Hong, who opened Mr Wong. That was a huge restaurant, you know. There’s

“How good is it that I can set the table with a pair of chopsticks and everyone just gets it.”

nothing like it in Melbourne. It’s 260 feet of restaurant, open seven days,

I’m lucky to have a restaurant where, I’m not fluent at all in Chinese, I can’t

lunch and dinner; they feed about 1000 people a day.

even read it, I can barely speak it, and I have a restaurant where everyone speaks in English, the menu is written in English, but the tables are set exactly

After a year of working there, I got approached to open Lee Ho Fook, and

like a Chinese restaurant. And I don’t get any negative or apprehensive

that’s it. Here I am.

feedback from the customer, because they totally understand that this is a country where in one restaurant, you eat with chopsticks, and in another

How would you describe your cooking style in general?

restaurant, you can use toothpicks at a tapas restaurant. You can have a

Lee Ho Fook is what I like to call new-style Chinese. I don’t really go for

knife and fork at a bistro.

authenticity, but the food is quite traditional. I go for traditional but not authentic in terms of flavour profile, approaches to ingredients and cooking

The country’s very fluid in terms of the way people eat and I think that’s

technique. But I do draw a lot from my European training, and apply a

probably the best part of being in Australia–there’s such a huge influence

lot of modern touches to the food sometimes. It doesn’t really look like

from migrants and from the diversity of people here that no one really feels

Chinese food, but when you eat it you go, okay, it tastes like this dish, or it’s

that apprehensive when it’s a new meal or restaurant concept.

a reference to this dish. That is interesting to me.

Absolutely, and very much so in Melbourne. You can take for granted that I don’t really want to be, you know, a dumpling house, or a noodle house.

we’re very happy to eat in any way as long as the food’s tasty.

Because I’m not trained in traditional Chinese cookery. So it’s all very exciting

Of course. I was thinking about that the other day. If I opened a restaurant

and new and quite an interesting inspiration for me. At Lee Ho Fook, we try

in Paris, I’d probably have to set up all the tables with a knife and fork. It’s

and reinterpret classic, authentic Chinese dishes through a modern lens.

only because the French are kind of renowned for being their way or the highway. How good is it that I can set the table with a pair of chopsticks and

“The country’s very fluid in terms of the way people eat and I think that’s probably the best part of being in Australia–there’s such a huge influence from migrants and from the diversity of people here that no one really feels that apprehensive when it’s a new meal or restaurant concept.”

everyone just gets it, you know?

I feel like it’s almost a movement in Asian food. Not just in Australia but everywhere, that there’s sort of this permission to be very creative and use all these different influences with the goal just being to make tasty food.

It’s easier to move around these days… [to have access to] information, produce, people… and because everyone’s introduced to or quite used to many different styles, it kind of makes sense. There’s so many different influences that impact the way we cook, and not all of them just food.

I think that’s kind of what makes it interesting, because it becomes more of

There are quite a few talented people in Melbourne doing this new style

a part of your personality. That’s what my offering is about at Lee Ho Fook,

Asian influence food. The term “Asian fusion” is often thrown around.

and I think that’s what makes cooking quite exciting. Lee Ho Fook is the sum

Does this phrase annoy you?

of all my experiences. I’ve been in Australia since I was six years old, and all

Well, yes and no. Like, I used to find it creaky. But you know, in Australia,

of those kinds of experiences that I’ve picked up, that I’ve responded well to,

we’re basically part of Asia. And you think about the way we eat… you know,

from my childhood here, and my education here, and my [kitchen] training,

the last ten meals you had, there’s gotta be one or two Asian meals in there.

and my exposure to different produce and styles of cooking. I suppose

It’s just the way we eat, you know. It’s not that kind of rigid, or solid European

Lee Ho Fook is more reflective of a Melbourne restaurant than I Chinese

food where everyone expects to go into a restaurant and have a knife and

restaurant [because of that]. It’s just a Melbourne restaurant that happens

fork in front of them.

to serve Chinese-esque food.

16

“Lee Ho Fook is what I like to call new-style Chinese. I don’t really go for authenticity. I go for traditional but not authentic in terms of flavour profile, approaches to ingredients and cooking technique.”

It’s early days, but I think in terms of what we can do with it, it’s pretty exciting. It’s like renovating a room in your house that you really like, and now you love it.

What kind of drinks are you serving there?

I’ve got Hamish, my bar manager downstairs. We used to work together at

So Lawyers, Guns and Money: you closed it last year to find a new

Mr Wong and he’s just come back from Los Angeles, and he’s kind of taken

location. What’s on the horizon for that? Or what other plans do you

the reigns, really. He’s made a lot of cocktails, which are really cool, a lot of

have up your sleeve?

variations of drinks that we love. So there’s a drink called a Red Hook, which

Well at the moment I’m really enjoying Lee Ho Fook. Lawyers, Guns and

is like a Manhattan, kind of a spin on that, which is called the Lee Ho Fook

Money didn’t really work out operationally, in the space that we were in,

Red Hook.

which is unfortunate because I really loved the idea of it. There were a few constraints. So I decided to pull the plug on it before it became a business

Yum. What’s the spin?

nuisance. It wasn’t an easy decision, but sometimes, if you’re gonna fail, you

Like the Manhattan, it’s a rye-based cocktail with Italian bitters and

might as well fail fast. That’s what all the start-up kids say, right? Without

maraschino liqueur. And what we’ve done there is infused the Italian

that turning into a big stress on me, it’s allowed me to refocus my energies

vermouth with Vietnamese coffee, which kind of tastes like vanilla and

on Lee Ho Fook, which I’m having a great time doing.

cocoa nibs, and a little bit of chilli, so it just gives the drink a richer mouth feel. You don’t really feel the chilli; it’s just sort of a background heat.

We now have a bar downstairs and that’s working well. The kitchen is working well, the best it’s ever been in my opinion, because we’ve got some

And everyone loves a spritz, especially in Melbourne. So we’ve got a great

fantastic staff in here at the moment.

Blonde Spritz on at the moment, and that’s got grapefruit, peaches, lemon, sparkling wine, and a French vermouth, which is a white, sweeter vermouth.

What’s the bar’s concept?

It’s fun.

Well, downstairs used to be a private dining room, and that really wasn’t the kind of vibe I wanted there. So I thought, what about putting a separate

The bar is something for us to do which is about expanding the offering and

space within the [Lee Ho Fook] space? And I went okay, I’m just gonna put

giving more to the customer, which is really cool.

a bar in here and kind of change [the fit out] a little bit.

LEE HO FOOK I’m a little bit obsessed with light artists at the moment, so I thought, hey,

11-15 Duckboard Place

what if I put cool pink neons in there, and go from there. And it’s kind of

Melbourne

taken its own form in terms of what we can do. I like how you’re walking into

Ph: (03) 9077 6261

one space, then you can go into another space, it adds another layer to it.

www.leehofook.com.au

17

MELBOURNE’S BEST FROZEN TREATS WORDS MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE AND PICCOLINA GELATERIA

Food contributes strongly to the cultural make up of Melbourne. Something

inspiration she needed to open up her own cool and creamy business. “Dad

that locals and visitors will agree on is not just the calibre, but the variety

learnt the tradition of gelato making in Southern Italy over 20 years ago,

of what’s available. We decided to dig a little deeper into one particularly

and he has made it at home for our family ever since. I wanted to share this

favoured treat–or rather, should we say, genre.

wonderful tradition I had grown up with, and at the same time show people how special gelato can be.”

Ice cream, soft serve, gelato, gelati, popsicles, icy poles, and frozen yoghurt– whatever you prefer, it’s cold, sweet and always seems to be just what the

The gelato you’ll find at Piccolina is all-natural. This means no pastes, pre-

doctor ordered! We spoke to a few producers to find out the secrets to

mixes, gelatine or thickeners; which Sandra tells us are unfortunately all

some of Melbourne’s special frozen treats.

too common in the market. “Take Nutella for example,” Foti says. “We have created a flavour called Better than Nut-lla.” Why is it better, you ask? “The

PICCOLINA GELATERIA | HAWTHORN

answer is simple: because it’s natural. It doesn’t have any Nutella in it–rather, we have recreated the flavour using natural ingredients [such as] hazelnuts

Piccolina Gelateria is about as authentic as you can get when it comes to gelato. Part owner Sandra Foti tells us her Italian roots gave her the

18

prepared in-house and with natural cacao powder.

“We’re not saying that Nutella doesn’t taste good, it’s just that using it in our

Aside from there not being any other Greek fro-yos on the market, Provataris

gelato or serving it from a chocolate tap goes against our philosophy, which

decided she wanted to open a store due to her own frustrations with what

is to create everything from scratch using natural, whole ingredients.”

was being offered. “I love frozen yoghurt, and I love ice cream. I just got sick and tired of crappy toppings,” says Provataris.

Ignoring the discouragement of machinery wholesalers, the team at Piccolina employ traditional gelato making methods that date back to the

The concept of good quality food is very important to the team at Blu

16th Century, ensuring that Melburnians keep coming back for the soft and

Spoon. Toppings include all your regulars, but also offer really special items

creamy authentic gelato on offer at the popular Glenferrie store. The most

such as homemade rocky road, baklava and halva. You can also buy fresh

asked-for flavours include pistachio, chocolate and salted caramel, but you

handmade yoghurt, baklava and other Greek treats such as biscuits, which

can also get slightly more unique combinations such as bread, butter and

are made using what Provataris fondly calls “secret Yia Yia recipes”.

jam, or a sheep’s ricotta and lemon–a flavour that incorporates a speciallycommissioned ricotta by That’s Amore Cheese, custom-made for the flavour.

The frozen yoghurt comes in natural, pomegranate, coconut (which is dairy free), chocolate, caramelised banana, salted caramel, and one that really

BLU SPOON | PORT MELBOURNE

stands out–baklava. “It’s so unique to our business”, says Anna. “We’re trying to transform how you would normally eat baklava.” Blu Spoon has definitely

A few years back, frozen yoghurt stores were dime a dozen. Wildly popular

built up recognition for the humble baklava, with their homemade baklava

and perceived to be healthier than ice cream, the real draw card has been

products selling like hotcakes.

the diversity of toppings on offer, such as lychee pearls or chocolate soil.

XOCOLATL | KEW, CANTERBURY AND TOORAK While there are still a few frozen yoghurt establishments kicking around, there’s only one that offers a rich and creamy Greek frozen yoghurt. Part

A small family business that started in 2005, Xocolatl grew to success in

owner Anna Provataris tells us what makes Blu Spoon in Port Melbourne

Kew and Canterbury and have recently opened up a third store in Toorak.

stand apart from other fro-yo in Melbourne. “Essentially the basis of our

Christos Partsioglou and his two daughters Maddy and Tina run the

product is an authentic Greek double-strained yoghurt–quite different to

show, creating specialty artisan chocolate. With flavours such as goat’s

what you get in the supermarket, which is a Greek-style yoghurt.”

cheese and peach, gorgonzola and mango or chilli peanut butter, they’re injecting creative flair into their chocolate offering. “[Christos and Tina] are

When real Greek yoghurt is made, Provataris tells us it’s thick because the

continuously thinking about how we can use chocolate or the cacao bean in

whey, sugar and water are strained out of the product. You can tell when it’s

many different applications,” Maddy Partsioglou tells us. Think degustations

authentically Greek, due to the thick creamy solidity of the product, which

where every course features chocolate (a.k.a. Heaven).

conveniently lends itself well to being frozen.

19

Upon a trip to Japan, Christos and Jenny were inspired by the frozen

pop-up. Pidapipó grew such a name for flavourful and vibrant gelato that

chocolates they tried in one store. “They served all of their chocolates cold, and

the brand ventured southside to Windsor in 2016. Now, even in winter, the

that’s something we’ve never heard of before. No one in Europe does that,”

procession of scoop-happy patrons seems to be never-ending at each of

Maddy says. This inspiration led to the creation of bite-size frozen ganache

the Pidapipo outlets.

at Xocolatl, available in five flavours: passionfruit, hazelnut, coconut, single origin and raspberry white chocolate. These small packages look unassuming,

It’s not just the frozen sorbets and gelati that are carefully crafted at

but the cold temperature hits the tastebuds, enhancing the rich flavour and

Pidapipó. The interiors of the two shops are beautifully designed and fitted

smoothness of the tiny morsels–truly unlike anything on the market.

out, with custom-poured bench tops that blend into the floor, and rustic plastered walls. The style is unique, but with pastel colours bringing it all

If you’re not mad keen on chocolate (what are you doing in a chocolate

together (and the occasional hanging bunches of fresh fruit), it just works.

store?), Xocolatl also have a range of fruit popsicles perfect for sweltering weather (and only available in summer). You can choose from coconut and

GELATERIA PRIMAVERA | CBD

lime, mango, blueberry and lemon, mixed berry dark chocolate, raspberry and cocoa nib, banana honey, and lychee, rose and strawberry. Maddy tells us that

The bustling crowds that visit Gelateria Primavera - attached to Spring St

the products are very natural. “We don’t use any artificial preservatives, we

Grocer - aren’t just drawn to the trendy location. The gelato on offer is not

don’t add any extra sugar. No colourings or flavour enhancers, same as our

only top notch, it’s also got some truly unique flavour combinations. We’re

chocolates.”

talking ricotta, lemon and olive oil, or cardamom and pistachio. Watermelon and mint, mango passionfruit and strawberry and lime sorbets take the cake

PIDAPIPÓ | WINDSOR AND CARLTON

for the warmer weather, but it’s the rich nutty gelati flavours that the staff rave about. With pistachios from Piedmont and hazelnuts from Bronte near

The name Pidapipó is derived from an Italian version of Simon Says, a game

Sicily, the taste and produce incorporated is noticeably indulgent.

that owner Lisa Valmorbida used to play with her Nonno. At Pidapipó, it’s all about authentic and fresh gelato. A weekly rotation of flavours celebrates the

Fresh and creamy, all the gelato is made from a Fior di Latte base, which is

latest local produce - think vibrant blood plums or juicy mangoes – alongside

essentially a simple, milk-flavoured mixture. The menu changes daily, with

a more consistent offering of popular flavours such as pistachio.

at least one adventurous flavour on rotation. Hey, we have no problem with that–the cardamom and pistachio blew our minds!

Lisa Valmorbida spent time in Italy, and even attended Carpigiani Gelato University, to learn the ins and outs of authentic gelato making techniques.

The best bit about Gelateria Primavera is that it’s open until midnight every

After working in a gelateria based in her family’s hometown of Vicenza, she

night except Sunday, when it’s open until 11pm. Perfect for an after-dessert

opened up the Carlton store in late 2014 after a successful experimental

dessert!

20

BIBELOT | SOUTH MELBOURNE

The creamier paleta flavours are more popular in winter, with fruit flavours getting the most attention in the warmer months. Liang tells us watermelon

Once upon a time there was a little cafe in South Melbourne called Chez Dre.

has been hugely popular, but they like to change it up regularly to work

This cafe-cum-French patisserie became so popular they decided to extend

around produce that’s seasonal and available.

next door, turning their sweet offering into Bibelot. This expansion is a walk-in heaven for any sweet tooth, complete with cakes, macarons, chocolates and

The fun part is placing the finishing touches on the paleta. The treat

of course, ice cream.

gets dipped in your choice of white, milk or dark chocolate, and three toppings such as Oreo crumbs, nuts, chocolate chips, sprinkles and more.

Colourful and vibrant, the offering of flavours ranges from traditional to

The richness of the cream-based paletas lends itself well to these extra

creative. GRAM’s pick would definitely be the mandarin and yuzu, a zingy

toppings, but it does end up being quite a lot to eat, so come prepared an

sorbet which is surprisingly smooth and low on acid. The pistachio is a staff

empty stomach!

favourite (which we’re seeing a trend of in the frozen treat stakes!) and it’s absolutely packed full of fresh nuts, which gives it an almost warm texture in

You can also find the Chill Bro Paletas at South Melbourne night market,

the mouth.

which is on Thursday nights during the warmer months. They also cater for those looking for a quirky (and tasty) addition to weddings and events.

Of course an ice cream from Bibelot wouldn’t be complete without a generous drizzle from the chocolate tap. You can choose to line your ice cream cone

PANA CHOCOLATE | RICHMOND

with dark or milk chocolate, adding that extra touch which makes eating your cone pretty darn enjoyable.

While there are plenty of vegan ice cream options around (hello sorbet!), it’s rare they’ll be accompanied with a side of vegan chocolate. Pana

CHILL BRO PALETAS | CBD

Chocolate in Richmond has you covered, with their delightfully cute Heart Beet ice creams. These little heart-shaped popsicles feature raspberry and

Hidden away on Menzies Lane in Melbourne Central is Chill Bro Paletas, a

beetroot ice cream, dipped in a smooth chocolate exterior.

business run by Juan Pablo de Anda and Mathew Liang. A paleta is a Mexicanstyle popsicle, the name of which, Liang tells us, loosely translates to “stick”

Alternatively, you can try their collaboration with Zebra Dream, a coconut-

and “refreshing”; and we’d have to agree that’s a pretty apt description.

based product that combines rich Pana Chocolate chunks with mintflavoured ice cream. It may be refined sugar and dairy free, but it definitely

The idea came about when de Anda spotted a little push-cart in the city with

isn’t lacking decadence. All Pana products are dairy, soy, gluten and refined

bells attached to it that reminded him of paleta carts back home in Mexico.

sugar free, as well as being raw, organic and homemade.

This inspired him to bring the paleta recipe to the Melburnian masses.

21

A FOODIE’S GUIDE TO DAYLESFORD WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY JO O’KELLY AND LISA HOLMEN

One of my favourite spots for a weekend getaway is Daylesford, Victoria’s

Whether it’s a cosy escape to a log cabin in winter, or a lakeside cottage

very own spa country. Daylesford is a peaceful and tranquil town first

in summer, the Daylesford region is certainly an area fit for any season;

made famous by its mineral springs and spas. Now it has blossomed into a

and its quality food and beverage is second to none. Read on for a food-

well-deserved culinary destination in its own right, for its rich produce and

inspired guide that covers the best things to eat and drink that Daylesford

award-winning restaurants.

and its surrounds has to offer.

22

SAULT RESTAURANT

They also take their coffee very seriously, so it’s the place to come for a

Beautifully set on a spectacular 125-acre estate along Ballan-Daylesford

solid brew.

Road, Sault is one of Daylesford’s finest dining options. Housed in a gorgeous sandstone country building and flanked by purple lavender

Larder have recently opened L1 next door, which is the perfect spot for a

fields and a pristine lake, you’ll be transported to the Provence countryside

quieter breakfast or a takeway coffee and pastry on the fly.

in no time.

Larder has a warm, friendly atmosphere which keeps locals and tourists Inspired by regional, seasonally-changing produce, the menu is modern

coming back for more. There’s also a great selection of homemade

Australian with a Spanish twist. Start with tapas fresh from the garden and

gourmet goodies to take home or pack a picnic with.

sea, then work your way to mains – think roast corn-fed duck breast paired with blood plum, beetroot, duck liver parfait and pistachio; or the slow-

larderdaylesford.com.au

cooked Sher wagyu beef brisket.

KAZUKI’S My pick for sweets is the Arroz con leche –Spanish rice pudding– a delicious

If Japanese and French fusion food is more your thing, head to Kazuki’s at

medley of cinnamon dulce de leche, mochi, verbena ice cream, apricot and

the Raglan. Born in Akita, chef and owner Kazuki Tsuya and his wife Saori

puffed rice .

combine their Japanese heritage to create a delicious gastro fusion.

Kick back, relax and enjoy the food and the breathtaking views over the

Kazuki’s is effortlessly stylish, combining traditional Japanese décor with

lake and Wombat State Forest beyond.

modern artwork, including beautiful ceramics by talented local artist Bridget Bodenham. The result is an elegant, earthy atmosphere which

sault.com.au

retains a sophisticated, yet relaxed environment for guests.

LARDER

Expect twists on Japanese classics, like the Moreton Bay bug dumplings

Conveniently positioned in the town’s center on Vincent Street, Larder has

with sake emulsion, ponzu and rainbow chard or the beef tataki paired

developed quite the following amongst brunch and coffee enthusiasts alike.

with pickles, puffed rice and horseradish. Tasting menus are available in

Inspired by local produce, most of the menu is handmade or sourced from

three, five and seven course.

local businesses. The all-day breakfast menu features inventive classics like breakfast panna cotta, the Spanish baked eggs and the Bircher muesli.

kazukis.com.au

23

CLIFFY’S EMPORIUM

WINE AND THE COUNTRY

Another popular local haunt is Cliffy’s Emporium. A café, produce store and

Just down the road on Vincent Street, Wine and the Country is a wine

wine bar all in one, Cliffy’s boasts plenty of country hospitality and charm.

shop and bar owned by husband and wife team Owen (local wine maker at Eastern Peake Winery) and Jen Latta. With over 400 producers featured,

Cliffy’s has been a Daylesford icon since 1955 when it first opened as a

all of the wines have been carefully selected based on unique wineries

corner store by Cliffy Hauser. It’s a charming space filled with eclectic

both domestically and internationally, with both well and lesser known

furniture and cute décor and is one of the best places to eat in Daylesford,

wine varieties available.

showcasing local and regional produce in all of its glory.

It’s also a great place to stop for a glass of wine at the bar and a platter You can pop in for breakfast or lunch and enjoy a range of freshly made

of cheese, small goods and charcuterie. Just don’t forget to take a bottle

bagels, baguettes and salads. Don’t miss their signature hash browns made

home with you, too.

with aged cheddar and topped with bacon, free range eggs and chipotle hollandaise. Cliffy’s is also a deli, so you can take home a great range of

wineandthecountry.com.au

gourmet goodies like cheese, charcuterie and a mouthwatering selection of cakes and pastries.

DAISY DINING Eating out can be fun, but sometimes you want the restaurant to come to

The café is licensed so you can enjoy a cheeky glass of local wine in the

you so you don’t have to move an inch!

afternoon with one of their grazing platters filled with cured meats, cheese, pickled vegetables and freshly baked bread.

Rachel Daisy is one of the leading bespoke caterers in the Daylesford region, specialising in private events and personalised dinners. With a

cliffysemporium.com.au

strong focus on local, ethical produce, Daisy Dining is all about homecooking made with love, inspired by traditional and French cooking and

BELVEDERE SOCIAL

influenced by Daisy’s “beautiful” mother.

Wind up a busy day with a cocktail at Belevedere Social. The team take pride in offering a great cocktail list, spirits, beer and a wine selection that

Think Brooklands free-range beef with local ale and potatoes, lentil and

is designed to be best enjoyed in the current season and showcases the

mushroom pie and the most delicious pavlova you will ever taste.

best of local producers.

Daisy works very closely with local suppliers to ensure the food is fresh The summer cocktail range includes “Cupids Kiss,” a refreshing concoction

and of the highest quality. Whether you’re looking for a simple dinner for

of strawberry, rose, vodka; and my personal favourite, the Minted Cherry

one or catering for a more extravagant dinner party, she can customize a

Caipirnha with preserved cherry, brazilian cherry wood, cachaca and lime.

menu to suit your requirements.

Belvedere Social is also open for lunch and dinner for hungry bar hoppers,

daisydiningdaylesford.com.au

offering a produce-driven modern Australian menu that champions artisan producers. The bartenders are more than happy to recommend a cocktail

NEED A PLACE TO STAY? TRY:

pairing for each course.

Vintage House Daylesford Vintagehousedaylesford.com

Perch at the front bar or retreat to the cosy courtyard on a balmy summer evening. You don’t want to miss this one.

White House Daylesford thewhitehousedaylesford.com.au

belvederesocial.com.au The Estate at Trentham theestatetrentham.com.au

24

25

THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

THE NEFF MARKET KITCHEN Nestled among South Melbourne Market’s vibrant Cecil Street restaurants, The Neff Market Kitchen’s intimate cooking classes are an unmissable experience for lovers of Melbourne’s thriving food scene!

The Neff Market Kitchen master classes allow you to get up close and personal with chefs from some of Melbourne’s top

SAUSAGE MAKING MASTERCLASS AT COMMON MAN Learn the secrets of sausage-making in a series of simple masterclasses hosted by Common Man South Wharf this autumn.

restaurants, learning cooking techniques from the best of the best–whether it’s Philippe Mouchel’s innovative French cooking, the playful fine dining of The Press Club, or the eclectic Asian-style food of Lucy Liu, this is your chance to learn how your favourite chefs make the food they are famous for!

With new classes released every month, you are bound to

Head Chef Lorenzo Casu will teach guests everything they need to know about making homemade sausages in a two-hour event, and guests will walk away with an expanded knowledge

find something to tempt your tastebuds.

SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU/COOKING-SCHOOL

of different cuts of pork, how to make their own preservative and gluten-free sausages. They’ll also get a recipe card with instructions and of course, their own delicious sausages to take

THAT’S AMORE DIAVOLETTI CHEESE That’s

home.

Amore’s

Diavoletti

cheese

is

turning heads after it was announced that A well-earned sit down gourmet sausage and beer lunch will

the delicious smoky stuffed foodstuff is

take place at the end of the class, with participants taking in

the 2017 Champion Flavoured Cheese at

gorgeous views of the Yarra river and city skyline before heading

the Australian Grand Dairy Awards!

home with all your handmade goodies.

A unique, super tasty product, the name From Saturday March 11 and at $89 per person, the classes

“Diavoletti” translates to “little devils”, which suits the product perfectly – a small provolina-

are ideal for beginners with no previous experience. Bookings

shaped cheese with a single chilli-stuffed olive at its centre. The salty olive with a kick of chilli

are essential; ensure you reserve a space by booking online at

will help bring out the cheeky side in even the best-behaved cheese-lover!

WWW.THECOMMONMAN.COM.AU Find out more at THATSAMORECHEESE.COM.AU

SMOOTHIE BOMBS Created by Melbourne nutritionist and mum Cinzia

The Smoothie Bombs are perfectly balanced to give you

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what you need in the simplest way possible. They come in

before school, Smoothie Bombs are about making healthy

five delicious flavours, packaged in their beautiful signature

choices easier and more enjoyable.

tubes or in a 25-piece bulk bag for easy food service.

The Bombs help you make fresh smoothies enriched with

The Smoothie Bombs are offering GRAM readers an

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For more information go to THESMOOTHIEBOMBS.COM or email sales@nutritiondarling.com

26

BRINGING YOUR BRAND TO LIFE

FOOD, BEVERAGE & RETAIL ACTIVATIONS

Combining creative ideas, technology, design & excellence in activation fit-out using recycled shipping containers.

www.shippingcontaineractivation.com.au

RECIPE: CRÈME CARAMEL WITH YUZU JELLY AND GOJI BERRIES RECIPE ADRIAN LI - SAIGON SALLY

28

Chef Adrian Li shares a recipe with us for an amazing dessert currently on the menu at Windsor’s Saigon Sally.

Coconut crème caramels are common in Vietnam. We wanted to modernise the dish by giving it a bit of a Windsor spin – infusing the caramel with goji berries for an earthy sweetness, and adding the yuzu jelly to cut through the richness of the dish.

The coconut macaroons are added for some texture and to reinforce that coconut flavour.

CRÈME CARAMEL

COCONUT MACAROON

Makes 24

100g egg whites 150g sugar

PART 1

300g fine coconut

600g sugar 100ml water

Method:

PART 2

Grease and line a tray with baking paper, and preheat oven to 150C.

2L whole milk

Whisk sugar and egg whites together until soft peaks form, and then mix

2 vanilla beans

in the coconut.

1 bottle coconut essence

Roughly shape into finger-sized forms, then place on tray, baking for 30min

PART 3

or until lightly golden.

300g sugar 12 eggs

COCONUT PRALINE 200g coconut

Method:

300g sugar

Preheat oven to 160C. Line a bain marie or deep baking tray with wet

50ml water

chux, and place 24 dariole moulds on top.

Method: To make the caramel, heat the water and the sugar in part 1 together

Lightly toast coconut in a pan on a low heat.

in a saucepan over medium heat, until the sugar has dissolved and the

Bring sugar and water to boil until it turns a very light caramel colour. Add

mixture turns amber. Don’t stir the mixture, just swirl the pan for an even

the coconut, and then pour onto a silicon mat or a tray lined with baking

caramelisation.

paper, and let it set.

Pour a small amount of caramel into each mould, just enough to coat the

YUZU JELLY

bottom. Save left over caramel for the goji berry caramel later on.

200ml yuzu 400ml sugar syrup (equal parts water and sugar)

Bring part 2 to the boil, while whisking part 3. Pour part 2 over part 3 while

6 gelatine sheets, softened in ice water

continuing to whisk the mixture. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, then top up the dariole moulds with the mixture.

Method: Make sugar syrup as outlined above. Heat half of the sugar syrup, and

Fill the bain marie/deep baking tray with just enough hot water to cover

dissolve the gelatine into it.

one third of the sides of the dariole moulds. Cover with another tray, place in the oven and cook for 30min; rotate and cook for a further 15-30 min.

Add the rest of the sugar syrup along with the yuzu to the gelatine mixture.

Pass through a fine sieve and divide between three takeaway tubs. Place in

GOJI BERRY CARAMEL

the fridge to set approximately 40mins.

200g goji berries 250ml sugar

To assemble: turn out the crème caramel onto a plate, by running a knife

250ml water

around the edges of the dariole mould so that the crème caramel keeps

reserved caramel

its shape, and then squeezing the mould upside down onto the plate. The caramel should ooze out from the tip of the mould onto the crème caramel.

Method: Make the sugar syrup by dissolving the sugar in the water in a small

Break off some pieces of macaroon and place around the plate. Pour

saucepan on a low heat.

around a tablespoon of the goji berry caramel over the top. Cut the yuzu jelly into 1cm cubes and then scatter some jelly across the plate.

Bring the sugar syrup and reserved caramel to the boil; take off the heat and add goji berries. Set aside.

Blitz the praline or chop up finely and roughly sprinkle around the plate to finish.

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RECIPE: SICHUAN HALOUMI STEAMED BUNS RECIPE OLIVIA OLDFIELD-BEECHEY PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BRUCE

Chef Olivia Oldfield-Beechey from Fitzroy’s high-end vegetarian dining

Once marinated in the Sichuan marinade and fried, the haloumi has a meaty

offering, Transformer, shares this modern vegetarian take on an Asian

quality to it. The longer you marinate the haloumi, the softer it will get –

classic.

but don’t keep it for more than a week because the fresh ingredients will start to lose flavour. Make sure you marinate the cheese at least overnight.

These buns basically incorporate a culmination of all of my experiences in the restaurants I’ve worked in in both England and Australia.

Don’t be deterred by all the components of this dish. It’s actually quite simple to make – you just have to be prepared!

You will be able to find the bao, the gochujang, the Sichuan peppercorns and the kim chi at most Asian supermarkets, but I use Tan Hung on Victoria St in Richmond.

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INGREDIENTS

METHOD

Makes 4 -6 Bao Buns FOR THE HALOUMI:

Place all ingredients except haloumi in a food

4-6 bao buns

FOR THE CUCUMBER PICKLES

processor and pulse until well combined. Pour over haloumi in a container

¼ tub of kim chi.

½ cucumber, thinly sliced

and place in fridge to marinate overnight.

¼ bunch spring onions, finely sliced

50g sugar (any type)

½ bunch coriander, finely sliced

100ml rice wine vinegar

FOR THE CUCUMBER PICKLES: Heat the vinegar and the sugar and water

150 ml water

together until sugar dissolves (don’t reduce or boil the mixture). Cool to

FOR THE HALOUMI

room temperature and pour over cucumbers; cover and set aside.

250g haloumi, cut into 12 pieces

FOR THE MAYONNAISE

½ bunch spring onion, roughly

1 large egg yolk

FOR THE PICKLED WATERMELON: cut watermelon into 3-4mm thick

chopped

2 tsp white wine vinegar

pieces that are a similar size to the haloumi. Mix vinegar, salt and sugar

20g peeled ginger, roughly chopped

½ tsp Dijon mustard

together, pour over watermelon and set aside.

50ml tamari

½ tsp salt

Please Note: Pickle the watermelon around an hour before serving to

20ml sherry vinegar

¾ cup canola or sunflower oil

keep it a little bit crunchy.

150g sugar (any type)

2 heaped tbsp gochujang sauce

10 cloves garlic, peeled

FOR THE MAYONNAISE: Whisk the egg yolk and vinegar and salt

two large shallots, peeled, roughly

together along with the mustard to combine. Add a third of your oil over

chopped

five minutes, very slowly, then add the rest of it in a fine drizzle until the

190ml ketyap manis (sweet soy

mixture goes thick and white. Add the gochujang paste to taste. Set aside,

sauce)

or place in fridge until serving.

60ml dark soy sauce 1 tsp sichuan peppercorns

TO ASSEMBLE: Steam the buns according to the directions on the packet.

Fry the slices of haloumi in a frypan on both sides until soft and cooked

FOR THE PICKLED WATERMELON

through.

300g watermelon flesh 50 ml rice wine vinegar

On each bun, spread a bit of the gochujang mayonnaise on the bottom

5g sugar

and top with a few pieces of kim chi. Place two to three pieces of haloumi,

Salt to taste (less salt than sugar)

two pieces of watermelon, two pickles, and top with a generous sprinkling of spring onions and coriander.

Fold top over and serve.

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REVIEWS CORTADO COFFEE ROASTERS - CUSTOM BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG Here in Australia, the word ‘piccolo’ or Italian for ‘small’ has

operation, with their mum Vicki cooking in the kitchen

become part of our coffee vernacular and a popular little

preparing home made Greek treats like spanakopita

drink, but overseas, it just doesn’t exist. You will however

and baklava, and their dad Evangelos helping with food

come across something similar called the ‘cortado’

preparation and grocery shopping. Jimi and Sue decided

prepared with equal parts coffee and milk. Derived from

Cortado, not only because of the shared belief of wanting

the Spanish word for ‘cut’, the theory is that you dilute or

to provide service and a quality product at a reasonable

cut the coffee with densely textured milk to reduce the

price, but also their level of support and desire to go the

acidity without losing the flavour. It’s pretty much what I

extra mile.

drink, with more milk than a macchiato, but less milk than a piccolo.

The custom blend they use is a hybrid of Flamenco and The 35, containing five beans from three origins - Brazil,

Wanting to celebrate this little known beverage, Alex

Colombia and India. Brett and Alex matched it with the milk

Samoun and Brett Ellis started Cortado Coffee Roasters

being used and also to The Valley’s La Marzocco FB70 so

in Thornbury exactly two years ago after meeting at a

Sue and Jimi could run one grinder with their own house

previous job working at a coffee company. They both

blend, perfect for both black and white coffee. The result

shared similar journeys, beginning as baristas before

is a smooth, rich brew that’s just so easy and enjoyable to

moving into sales, but it was when they both left their

drink and the siblings are very proud to serve it.

respective roles and Alex went travelling through Spain that he came across the cortado. He returned home,

In a world where everyone loves delegating duties to

reconnected with Brett and they decided to form a

others, it’s nice to see two guys roasting, packing and

roasting company with the logo of a bull made from

delivering coffee to their cafes, jumping behind the

shards of broken mosaic, inspired by Antonio Gaudí and

machines to lend a hand when busy and generally making

Alex’s visit to La Sagrada Família in Barcelona. The aim

sure all is running as it should. If you haven’t come across

CONTACT

was to give Melburnians well roasted specialty coffee that

the brand, here are a few cafes where you can experience

www.cortadocoffee.com.au

has substance, without being over engineered so that it’s

their brews and find out how Cortado is all about cutting

hello@cortadocoffee.com.au

accessible to baristas and drinkers alike.

the crap but filling your cup with a whole lot of bull!

Also wanting to make a difference and create a business

The Valley Foodstore - 75 Chadstone Rd, Malvern East

together were brother and sister Jimi and Sue Tsinis, when

Fed Up Project - 210 Clarendon St, South Melbourne

they opened their cafe The Valley Foodstore in Malvern

Smug Relish - 510 Lygon St, Brunswick East

East at the beginning of December 2016. Both with

Melbourne Vintage Audio & Espresso Station - 39 Station

backgrounds in hospitality, they wanted people to feel at

St, Malvern

home, experience a sense of warmth and generosity and

Coffee Rush - 201 Spencer St, Docklands CBD

leave wanting to come back. This is very much a family

Salte Cafe - 9 Alpine St, Ferntree Gully

03 9484 9444

THE SHAW + SMITH 2016 SAUVIGNON BLANC Adelaide Hills RRP: $26.00 WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN BRUCE Shaw + Smith began over lunch in 1989, when cousins

Long accepted as the Adelaide Hills sauvignon blanc to

Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith decided to realise

set your standards by, the Shaw + Smith 2016 release is a

their dreams and make wine together. Located in the

super light, fresh take on the popular drink.

Adelaide Hills, they specialise in Sauvignon Blanc, M3 Chardonnay, cool climate Shiraz and Pinot Noir. With a

While this sauv blanc is pretty comprehensive on the

reputation ranking them among Australia’s best, Shaw +

tropical fruit front, the flavours are restrained enough

Smith’s 2016 sauvignon blanc is no exception.

to not overwhelm your palate–quite on the contrary, this wine is super lightweight and easy to drink. Its pure

Shaw + Smith have established themselves as one of, if

and balanced finish helps you finish off the bottle before

not the foremost producer of sauvignon blanc in Australia,

you’re ready to see it go.

and there’s not a doubt in my mind as to why.

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MURRAYS FRED IPA WORDS ON THE BANDWAGON PHOTOGRAPHY SHAINAL JIVAN, TAI-PAN BEER CO “Right!” said Fred.

Fred can only be described as “juicy”. But in the interest of appearing like a serious beer reviewer, I’ll try harder:

It’s a story that’s not uncommon in the beer world.

this beer is wonderfully carbonated, showcasing a

Back in the mid-00s, Murray Howe ventured stateside

deliciously fluffy head with a hint of strawberry jam

and was stung by the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale love-bug,

aroma and a touch of kiwi fruit thrown in. The bold

which inspired him to start his own brewery and make

bitterness arrives a few moments after sampling but it’s

beers he wanted to drink.

so beautifully balanced that your palate is not beaten up beyond repair. The flavour journey continues with a

Located 30min north of Newcastle at Port Stephens

touch of citrus and pine. By this stage, you’re thinking

Winery, Murray’s make a mean imperial stout which is

“Wow”.

popular among its regular drinkers. But for me, I have a real affinity for the brewery’s take on craft beer’s

Fred IPA is one of Murray’s core beers so you’ll be

biggest trend at the moment: India Pale Ales.

pleased to know you should be able to get a hold of some quite easily. Available at all good beer venues

Thunderbolt IPA was a highlight of 2016, winning

around Melbourne and regional Victoria. Cheers!

Champion IPA at the Australian Craft Beer Awards and an eternal place in my heart, but since I drank every last bottle of Thunderbolt in my possession, I decided to talk about one of my favourite “I want an IPA that I can have a session on” IPAs – the Fred IPA.

MURRAYS FRED IPA ABV: 5.6 STYLE: India Pale Ale FOOD PAIRING: Smokey Chicken Fajitas ORIGIN: Bobs Farm, NSW PRICE (RRP): 4 pack 330ml $19 Buy it here: www.murraysbrewingco.com.au

BAR/D UP Video Feature - 1806 - CBD In collaboration with Dewar’s

History. It defines who we are and where we come

celebrates them; featuring different cocktails from the

from. It shapes the present, but can be easily forgotten

mid 1700s onwards, they lubricate and educate patrons

as we go about our daily lives. The dishes we eat, the

in parallel, with a little theatre added in for fun.

beverages we drink–their recipes are often steeped in tradition, using ingredients and flavour combinations

That is not to say that these guys aren’t creative.

from a time gone by.

1806 bartenders are encouraged to design their own beverages which then appear as specials on the menu

Head to bardup.com.au to check out the video.

Instagram - @bardupmelb Facebook - facebook.com/bardupmelb

Take the cocktail for example: a single drink, but a sum

and are used in food-matched cocktail degustations.

of its parts, working together in perfect harmony. Unlike

You can also choose to do a whisky flight and pair it

wine or beer which is ready to enjoy, a cocktail requires

with amazing cheeses; and if you have a larger group

the masterful skills of a bartender to create it, often

of 20 or more, you can head downstairs below street

taking timeless recipes and adapting them into new and

level to The Understudy where you can have a private,

interesting combinations.

tailored experience in a more intimate environment.

These classics all have their own story, but what about

This is a bar not only built on history–it’s a bar built

the cocktail itself? There are many thoughts on the

on the history of cocktails. Listen, watch and absorb

origins of the name, but the definition first appeared

because this is a place of learning where the bartender

in political US paper The Balance and Columbian

is your teacher and guide. You may even be inspired to

Repository, and reads: “Cocktail is a stimulating liquor,

create your own delicious masterpiece, all based on that

composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and

defining experience: your evening at 1806.

bitters.” The date of publication was 13th May 1806.

1806 Just over 200 years later, a very unique bar opened in

169 Exhibition Street

Exhibition Street named 1806. Whether they planned to

Melbourne

or not, they have successfully placed themselves as one

PH: 9663 7722

of the top cocktail venues in Melbourne. Unlike many

1806.com.au

bars constantly trying to reinvent the classics, 1806

33

OUT AND ABOUT BETTY’S BURGERS LAUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY JAM ON YOUR COLLAR | MICHAEL PHAM

Noosa’s iconic Burger and frozen custard joint Betty’s Burgers & Concrete Co has come to Melbourne, opening its fourth venue at 97 Elizabeth Street. Betty’s first foray out of Queensland. Betty’s Melbourne launch saw lucky guests treated to some amazing beef, pork, chicken and mushroom and Gouda vegetarian burgers, alongside some incredible frozen custard concretes and thickshakes.

We highly recommend heading down to try it yourselves!

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THE DIARY

March 12 - 13, 2017

DONUT AND BEER FEST MELBOURNE

19 March, 2017

MELBOURNE TOMATO FESTIVAL All Nations Park, Separation Street, Northcote

Bendigo, Victoria

Australia’s very own Donut and Beer Festival will come to life in Melbourne this March over the Labor Day long weekend.

Set in the outdoor beer garden of the iconic Village Melbourne, the Donut and Beer Fest will celebrate all things donut shaped from a range of talented and aspiring bakers.

From sugary, round, to creamy and icy cold – Chow Down Events has sourced several of the best and delicious donut makers, coffee specialists and boutique brews to tantalize your taste buds. Goldelucks’ hybrid “dossants” (donut-croissant), Bistro Morgan’s signature syringe donuts and coffee experts, Workshop Bros will all be at the festival. There will also be raw, vegan and gluten free donuts from CocoMama’s Juices.

A gold coin donation is essential for entry to the festival. Proceeds will go to Eat Up - a local charity that packs and distributes lunches to disadvantaged students who arrive to school hungry and without lunch every day.

Doors open from 2pm.

DONUTFEST.COM.AU

The Italian community of Melbourne is the second largest ethnic group in Greater Melbourne, Australia.

31 March - 9 April, 2017

Nothing defines Italian Culture in Melbourne more than the backyard tomato harvest and suburban garage sauce making.

In 2017, the internationally acclaimed Melbourne Food and Wine Festival presented by Bank of Melbourne (MFWF) will shine a global spotlight on Victoria’s world-class food and wine industries. More than 250,000 food and wine lovers are expected to gather across the state for the 25th celebration, which will run from 31 March until 9 April.

Since 2015 The Melbourne Tomato Festival brings this positive childhood memory to the wider community in support of multiculturalism and preservation of cultures and customs through food. Also, social well-being through connecting people to each other with food.

The 2017 MFWF will take place as the world’s leading food influencers – chefs, restaurateurs, critics and food writers– look to Melbourne for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 announcement (4 – 6 April).

How we grow our food or where we source it from has a great impact on our health, lifestyle and future. Our food traditions define our culture, our family and ultimately us as individuals.

Visit the inaugural House of Food and Wine, tucked down a Melbourne laneway, and see the banks of the Yarra transformed into a foodie playground at River Graze. Or go regional with 24 Regional World’s Longest Lunches outside of Melbourne showcasing the best produce Regional Victoria has to offer.

MELBOURNE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL Victoria Wide

Hallmark event series MasterClass (1 - 2 April) will boast a roll call of presenting chefs whose restaurants have featured on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, including Peruvian cuisine’s biggest champion Gastón Acurio (Astrid y Gastón, W50B #30) and Australian-born Thai master David Thompson (Nahm, W50B #37).

MELBOURNEFOODANDWINE.COM.AU It is in keeping with this ethos that we gather together our local producers, community and champions of all things Italian to celebrate what has become known as ‘National Italian Day’ –the making of the passata or the Melbourne Tomato Festival. It is a gathering of local farmers selling produce, speakers, agriculturalists, cooking demonstrations, Italian food, artisan producers, special guests, history, workshops, entertainment and of course, passata making.

Adults $25 | Children 5-15 $10 | Children under 5 Free

25 March, 2017

BENDIGO 2017 CRAFT BEER AND CIDER FESTIVAL

16 - 17 March, 2017 MELBOURNETOMATOFESTIVAL.COM

2017 GOOD BEER WEEK GALA SHOWCASE Federation Square

Bendigo, Victoria

The Good Beer Week Gala Showcase is coming home, and will be held in the Atrium at Federation Square on March 16-17, 2017!

Spend a day in the sun with your best crew sampling over 100 beers and ciders and eating until your heart is content. Kick back on a hay stack and enjoy the smooth sounds of handpicked local live performers or reserve a seat with your group in the VIP tent, sponsored by The Schaller Studio and offering many suprises and luxuries on the day.

Activities and craft tables will be ready for the kids, as well as games for the big kids and competitions running throughout the day.

The Gala Showcase, originally supported by the state government and held biannually, first began at Federation Square in 2006 until 2012. Over the last few years, the Showcase has been held in St Kilda and then Fitzroy, but for 2017, we have been able to bring it back to where it all began.

The Gala Showcase will feature more beers than ever before, with 30+ breweries from Victoria and beyond showing off their wares in the Atrium, right next to the Good Beer Week Festival Hub, Beer DeLuxe Federation Square.

12 March, 2017

THORPDALE POTATO FESTIVAL Thorpdale Recreation Reserve

The Bendigo Craft Beer Festival brings together an amazing range of award winning craft beers and ciders from all over the state and beyond, come along and reacquaint yourself with some of the returning brewers or try from some festival first timers, a great day is sure to be had by all.

The Thorpdale Potato Festival is a family fun day out to celebrate the humble spud. Potatoes are the world’s most versatile vegetable - come learn how they are grown, harvested and thrive in our rich volcanic Gippsland soil.

BENDIGOCRAFTBEERFESTIVAL.COM.AU

THORPDALEPOTATOFESTIVAL.COM.AU

As the official launch of the Good Beer Week 2017 program, it will also serve as a sneak peek to the May festival, with food vendors from the program serving up some of the best dishes they have to offer.

There’ll be free masterclasses, meet the brewer sessions, and attendees can vote for their People’s Choice beer and brewery of the Showcase, to be announced at the final Friday evening session.

GOODBEERWEEK.COM.AU

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