GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE
ISSUE 40
FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
A
HOSPITALITY
in
2000
SHOP WHERE THE
CHEF’S SHOP
ED
ED
AT
TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC
100%
N
1996
OPENED ITS DOORS
OW
INDUSTRY SINCE
N
SERVICING THE
TRALIA S U
& OPE
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QUICK & EFFICIENT DELIVERY SERVICE FROM OUR COMMITTED
DEDICATED ACCOUNT
FLEET OF DRIVERS
MANAGERS COMMITTED TO
CUSTOMER SERVICE
2000
OVER BRANDS SOURCED
LOCALLY & OVERSEAS
DILIGENT TEAM OF
BUYERS CONTINUALLY SOURCING THE LATEST
INNOVATIONS IN
FOOD SERVICE
STILL ONE OF
MELBOURNE’S
BEST KEPT SECRETS
MORE SPECIALTY SERVICES, PERSONALISED BRANDING AS WELL AS INDIVIDUAL FINANCING
THAN
20,000
QUALITY PRODUCTS AT EXCEPTIONAL VALUE
Everything a great chef needs for every occasion
www.chefshat.com.au
In this edition of GRAM, we embrace the cooler
ON THE COVER:
weather with delicious winter soups from The
Cabbage is powerful. Ancient
Kind Cook, and Leigh Hudson explains the
healers declared it contained
history behind the hottest new drink trend, sake.
moon power because it grew in
Lauren Bruce and Georgia Haynes discover
the moonlight. Modern nutritional
Hermon & Hermon and Chasing a Plate escapes
science understands its power
to Cheerio.
comes from its high sulphur and
Brunch Addict visits the newly opened Rue & Co to find out what
vitamin C content. It is full of
everyone has been talking about, and My Fair Melbourne sits
vitamin K and anthocyanins that
down with Martin Pirc, owner and manager of one of Melbourne’s
help with mental function and
most iconic restaurants, Punch Lane.
concentration. These nutrients also
Petite Miamx travels far and wide to try Dan Hunter’s, Brae, and
prevent nerve damage, improving
Tim Baxter treats us to an insightful look into the role food plays
your defence against Alzheimer’s
on the silver screen.
disease, and dementia. Red
La Donna Del Vino and On the Bandwagon also return, with the
cabbage has the highest amount of
very best in beer and wine. Enjoy.
these power nutrients. It also helps
Jess Hourigan, Editor
dry up oily and acne skin.
INSIDE JUNE GRAM
4.
4.
4. CHEERIO
6. RUE & CO.
8. HERMON & HERMON
CHASING A PLATE
BRUNCH ADDICT
LAUREN BRUCE & GEORGIA HAYNES MY FAIR MELBOURNE
4.
4. 14. BRAE
20. FOCUS ON: SAKE
PETITE MIAMX
LEIGH HUDSON
10. MARTIN PIRC: PUNCH LANE
4. 24. MEALS AMONGST THE REELS
26. RECIPE: WINTER SOUPS THE KIND COOK
TIM BAXTER
REGULARS: 18. WE LOVE
28. BEER REVIEWS 30. WINE REVIEWS
32. WHAT’S NEW AND WHAT’S ON 34. DISTRIBUTORS
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From time to time we’ll add additional links, stories and giveaways on our Facebook and Twitter sites. Follow us and stay up to date with the odds and ends about eating and drinking in Victoria. Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
Editor: Jess Hourigan Email: jess@grammagazine.com.au Art and Design: Jess Hourigan Cover Design: Alison Bell
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Head office Rothesay Media Pty Ltd 268 McKenzie Street Golden Square VIC 3555 info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au
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KICK ARSE: SERVING PROUD MARY SINGLE ORIGINS AND FILTER COFFEES
SEVEN SEEDS ESPRESSO BLEND: SILKY, STRONG AND DOWNED ALL TOO QUICKLY
PORRIDGE: GREAT TEXTURE, CREAMY AND INCREDIBLY SATISFYING
CHEERIO 323 Lennox Street, Richmond Words by Sheena Southam. Photos by Thomas Southam
ABOUT CHASING A PLATE When you have a great food experience, it deserves to be shouted about from rooftops. Writing and photographing our experiences is our way of sharing our sensational dining experiences with others - because life’s too short to eat bad food.
WWW.CHASINGAPLATE.COM
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This little gem of a cafe makes me happy. It always seems to be a bright
pistachios. I may have had slight food envy. TBS wolfed down the porridge.
sunny day when we visit. The cafe is always buzzing, the menu is interesting
It was a great texture, creamy and incredibly satisfying.
and great value and they do delicious coffee. Being only TBS’s second outing in a week due to illness, Cheerio was just the ticket to revive our hungry and
The coffee is also one of my favourite things about Cheerio. Serving Seven
parched spirits.
Seeds espresso blend, my piccolo was silky, strong and downed all too quickly. TBS’s juice of apple, ginger and beetroot was reviving and refreshing.
Cheerio’s menu is concise and interesting with everything priced well under
The ginger offered a wee kick which added to the enjoyment.
the $20 mark. The plates exiting the kitchen all looked incredibly appealing but it was the mushroom duxelles I settled on. It was a nice change from
As always a charming visit. Cheerio may be small but it’s perfectly formed.
the usual sliced, creamy mushrooms. These funghi were minced and spread onto toast in a paste and then topped with globs of Meredith goats cheese,
P.S If you’re in for lunch, Cheerio’s sandwiches are also ace.
wobbly poached eggs and a sprinkling of basil. The mushrooms were light and complemented by the creamy, tangy goats cheese. God I love that stuff.
CHEERIO
The toast was quite thin but well suited to the dish as by the time I had
CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee
finished it I was surprisingly full.
ADDRESS: 323 Lennox Street, Richmond HOURS: Mon - Sat 7am - 4pm / Sun 8am - 4pm
TBS’s porridge was mighty fine looking. Puddles of melted brown sugar,
FACEBOOK: cheerio
crimson raspberry and strawberry compote and a generous scattering of
COFFEE: Seven Seeds
WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
5
RUE & CO: RELAXED AND CASUAL ATMOSPHERE
CHURCH OF SECULAR COFFEE: BREAKFAST RUN ENJOYABLE AND TASTY.
RUE & CO. 80 Collins Street, Melbourne. Words and photos by Brunch Addict.
ABOUT BRUNCH ADDICT Two people in Melbourne who love food set about a journey to find the best SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT
brunch in town. Scouting out new brunch places weekly for you to try is our quest. Don’t worry – coffee quality is just as important to us as the food.
WWW.BRUNCHADDICT.COM TWITTER: @BRUNCHADDICT
It was a cold Melbourne morning when we both decided to check out
worked extremely well. The egg was fried to perfection and burst with
Melbourne’s newest place to be, Rue & Co. Tucked away from sight at
yolk on the first mouthful. The bun had the right soft-to-firm ratio, and the
80 Collins Street, the outdoor pop-up venue opens up to beautifully laid
sauce was chunky; seamlessly adding hints of subtle sweetness to the meat
astroturf and a clear line of sight across to the Church of Secular Coffee
textures.
(St Ali), Jimmy Grants (George Columbaris) and Kong (Chris Lucas, who brought us Chin Chin).
Mr LB also had a long black that had a crisp and balanced flavour to complement his breakfast – Tuesday mornings had never looked better!
The venue is well decked out with minimal black-painted furniture. A combination of low seated stools and bar chairs (under cover and open
St Ali’s Church of Secular Coffee has made the quick breakfast run enjoyable
air) creates a relaxed and casual atmosphere. There is ample heating to
and tasty. Whether it’s to try the various combinations of their artisanal
keep punters warm which we thought was quite considerate, given the cold
toasts or to indulge in their selection of baked goods with a St Ali coffee,
Melbourne days ahead.
mornings before work will not be drag.
Both of us arrived at the early hour of 7:30am, just before the crowds started
Final Thought: “A coffee and toast pick-up ritual that is not to be missed”
moving in. Miss SL ordered a double espresso and a slice of toast – Tivoli Bread with Pepe Saya ricotta and jam ($2.50). Her espresso was gentle with
Rue & Co will be trading at 80 Collins Street site until the commencement
mild acidic tones, but the flavour profile was hard to decipher.
of the QIC Global Real Estate Initiative, a 39 storey tower that is anticipated to start building in the next six to nine months.
Miss SL’s toast was served within a couple of minutes of ordering and it was a single slice of heaven. The dough was beautifully moist and dense
RUE & Co.
inside and the ricotta and jam was a beautiful combination. Whilst the
CUISINE: Japanese, Korean (Kong), Greek (Jimmy Grants), Cafe Fare and
ricotta looked lumpy, the texture was smooth and creamy once consumed.
Coffee (St. Ali)
Gorgeous!
ADDRESS: 80 Collins Street, Melbourne HOURS: From 7am seven days a week
LB’s Breakfast Burger, rightly labelled The Daddy – Breakfast Bun with
FACEBOOK: RueandCo
Cumberland sausage, English-style bacon, fried egg and homemade brown
INSTAGRAM: RueandCo
sauce ($10) was a meat lovers delight. The three components, as expected,
COFFEE: St. Ali
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7
PIKELETS WITH ROASTED PEARS: A WINNING COMBINATION
8
EGG AND MUSHROOM TART: PERFECTLY POACHED EGG ATOP A FLAKY PUFF PASTRY CRUST
HERMON & HERMON 556 Swan Street, Richmond Ph: 9427 0599 Words by Lauren Bruce. Photos by Georgia Haynes
ABOUT LAUREN BRUCE Lauren is a communications crusader by day and passionate foodie by night, exploring Melbourne’s cuisine hotspots like a proverbial hotspot explorer. She blogs mainly on food but also fashion, travel and sometimes more food.
SCAN QR CODE TO READ ONLINE, SHARE AND COMMENT
WWW.LAURENDARCYBRUCE.WORDPRESS.COM ABOUT GEORGIA HAYNES Georgia Haynes is a designer and a passionate photographer, bringing her design knowledge and skills to her images. She works in food, music and fashion photography and knows the visual impact of a great photo.
WWW.GEOSTUDIO.TUMBLR.COM
It’s not often one heads to a designer homewares and furniture store for the sole purpose of breakfast consumption. Hermon & Hermon occupies a lovely warehouse, a bright and spacious environment with high ceilings and beautiful products in every corner. The Hermon & Hermon Cafe offers up a host of fresh, light options on their menu which are well worth a trip to the Swan Street store.
THE CAFÉ BOASTS MANY A RICHMOND REGULAR LOOKING FOR A LIGHT BREAKFAST/LUNCH AND CAFFEINE FIX – AND CAFÉ MANAGER/BARISTA LIZA MAKES A DAMN FINE COFFEE USING DC’S REALE BLEND.
The café boasts many a Richmond regular looking for a light breakfast/
The pikelets with roasted pears was a winning combo too. Although the
lunch and caffeine fix – and café manager/barista Liza makes a damn fine
pears could have been a bit softer and the syrup a bit wetter, the fluffiness
coffee using DC’s Reale blend.
of the pikelets and the ricotta laced with vanilla bean and cinnamon secured the deliciousness of this dish. The ricotta wasn’t too sweet, which offset the
Simple, good food is key on this menu. Along with a breakfast cooked to
sweetness of the honey syrup nicely.
order, Hermon & Hermon offers croque monsieurs, savoury tarts, breakfast piadinas and delicious baked goods such as the toffee-caramel-goodness
If you’re looking for a refuge from hipster brunch joints, nonchalant waiters
of freshly baked kingston biscuits, chocolate fudge brownies and other
and 20 minute table waits, Hermon & Hermon cafe is a delicious, and
sweet treats. After snaffling one of these amazing kingstons piled high
aesthetically pleasing, alternative.
on stylish crockery, I chose the poached egg and mushroom tart and the pikelets with roasted pear, honey syrup and spiced ricotta.
HERMON AND HERMON CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee
The tart was a delight with shaved button mushrooms, chives and a
ADDRESS: 556 Swan Street, Richmond
perfectly poached egg atop a flaky puff pastry crust. I’ve said it before
PH: 9427 0599
and I’ll say it again - if the yolk in your poached egg is runny and the white
HOURS: Mon - Fri 8am - 5pm / Sat 10am - 5pm / Sun 12pm - 5pm
is firm, then your dish is 90 per cent there. Breaking that creamy yolk, in
WEBSITE: www.hermonhermon.com.au
combination with the smoky mushrooms, the sharpness of the chives and
FACEBOOK: HermonandHermon
the crisp crunch of the pastry… well, I could have had five more.
COFFEE: Ducale Coffee
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9
LAURA LOWN: HEAD CHEESEMONGER
ASHLEY DAVIS: PURE SOUTH
MILK THE COW: OVER ONE HUNDRED MARTIN SEASONAL, RAREPIRC: AND OWNER AND MANAGER OF PUNCH LANE SPECIALTY CHEESES
AN INTERVIEW: MARTIN PIRC Punch Lane - 43 Little Bourke St, Melbourne Ph: 9639 4944 Words by My Fair Melbourne.
ABOUT MY FAIR MELBOURNE My Fair Melbourne is written by Melbourne corporate Melissa Lirosi whose daily life involves slurping steaming coffee on her way to work, shovelling pink sashimi into her mouth before her 2pm teleconference and plucking plump dumplings from bamboo steamers on Friday nights. MFM compiles Melissa’s views and reviews on the glorious food, fashion and events in her fair city.
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WWW.MYFAIRMELBOURNE.WORDPRESS.COM TWITTER: @MYFAIRMELBOURNE | INSTAGRAM: MYFAIRMELBOURNE
People say that when you buy a house you should know it’s yours the moment
When was the restaurant established?
you walk through the doors. It should have a feeling, a warmth and a comfort that makes you want to curl up on the couch with a good book and a pot of
Punch Lane was established in 1995, and started life at the same time the
peppermint tea. I have that same view about restaurants. Sometimes it’s nice
Southern Cross Hotel was being demolished. I was lucky enough to pick up
to go somewhere frenetic and fun, but there are days when you just want
some of the club grill chairs from Southern Cross, which would have been
to find a spot you can settle into. That’s how I felt walking into Punch Lane.
present when the Beatles were staying in Melbourne at that time.
The warmth, lighting and music instantly had me wanting to sink into one
We had elements of Melbourne’s iconic history brought to life again in a
of the comfy leather chairs, order a glass of red and settle in for the night.
new venue.
It’s coming up to twenty years since Punch Lane first opened its doors - and when it comes to Melbourne, that’s quite an achievement. Owner/manager Martin Pirc has been there at every step, ignoring the food trends that come and go and remaining focused on providing quality food, drink and service in a building that evokes feelings of decades past. I recently caught up with
LIKE AN OLD TRUST BUILDING OR A CENTURIES OLD TREE - IT IS A PART OF EVERYBODY, YOU JUST HAVE THE KEY TO IT.
Pirc to talk Melbourne food, laneway dining and the recent renovation of the
On your website you describe Punch Lane as a pioneer in laneway dining.
restaurant, which is more of a refresh than a complete new look.
Can you explain that a little bit to us?
For those who haven’t been before can you describe Punch Lane?
It happened unknowingly at the time, or maybe it was just by chance or luck. Sometimes you just have to be in the right place at the right time and
Punch Lane is an inner city wine bar and restaurant. It has been operating
there is nothing metaphysical about it. I think in that period Melbourne was
for almost 20 years and was born from a time where there weren’t many
coming out of a bleakness, it was a city where everyone left. It was that
options for blending eating and drinking in a quality, yet casual setting.
classic Brack painting, Collins St, 5pm. Bleak faces leaving the city.
Set in a building that is well over one hundred years old, Punch Lane has the
Being young, perhaps naïve and maybe even a little lucky, I settled upon the
feel of a bygone era but with a contemporary attitude and a contemporary
perfect set of circumstances with a corner block, an old red brick building
flavour.
of a bygone era and licensing laws that allowed you to be more flexible. I think a lot of this, and probably a lot of my career, has been intuitive. It just
Can you tell us a bit about the history of the building?
felt like the right combination of things for me.
It was originally a Melbourne police station, built around the time when Ned
There is all sorts of lanes now. In the QV building they are actually trying to
Kelly was being hunted. The building across the road, Longrain, were the
create new lanes. Lanes have almost become synonymous with discovery
stables where they kept the station’s horses.
and possibility. You know, “what am I going to find if I go up these stairs,
In it’s lifetime, it has also been a red light district, a holding pen and an ASIO
down this corridor, what’s around that corner?”
building, so it really encompasses a lot of Melbourne history.
WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
11
THE HEART AND SOUL: MARTIN’S TEAM
Why do you think laneway dining works?
a traveller on your ow - the space itself, the actual atmosphere, is something people connect with. It’s not ostentatious. A really important element of
A laneway is more than a street. A street is obvious, you walk down a street
creating this atmosphere is the people side of it. I have had people working
and it’s all there in front of you. A laneway almost pre-empts the fact that
with me for five, six, seven or even eight years who really are the heart and
I don’t know where I am actually going. I might be in Venice walking down
soul of the place, and people connect with that - a feeling of old friends and
a laneway and think “where did I go last time? I can’t find it again! Did I go
familiarity.
left or did I go right?” - It’s the not knowing that is charming. You walk up
Like all food, it’s not that it ticks everybody’s box and nor should it. But the
some stairs, down some stairs, look through a hole. I think people want to
quality and the integrity of the food is there. It’s solid and has a backbone
have that kind of excitement because everything is so obvious these days.
to it, and I think people are looking for that kind of experience.
It’s a little bit of a challenge and a little bit of a mystery and that is what we all want to be seduced with.
Can you tell us about the recent renovation?
There are so many restaurants in Melbourne coming and going. Why do
It’s been a process I have gone through for the last eight months or so. Again
you think Punch Lane has been so successful?
it was like most things, going back to that theme of intuition. It just felt like the right time. I think the last few years have been hard for a lot of people -
I’m tenacious. A bit like a dog with a bone. It’s what I like to do. For me,
suppliers, restaurants, families and the public in general. I think coming out
the excitement is in the whole delivery; the product, being a part of it and
of that period, it just felt like the right time, mentally and personally, to push
bringing other people along with you. Without giving myself too much of a
through that glass ceiling.
pat on the back, I really am fussy about people and the people around me. The kick I get in life is the ability to put all those components together. Like
I had some guys stop by in the first weekend I opened after the renovation.
a venue, the people that go in it, the aesthetics, the people that produce
They said they wanted to come past and see the changes they had read
the food, the people that find the wine, the people that we’re connecting
about it, and were really worried that we had done something with Punch
with, the producers - bringing all of that together under the one umbrella
Lane and changed it. But they walked around with approval. They were
and sharing it with people.
nodding the whole time, looking around saying we had done a great job and it was like we hadn’t changed anything - it’s still Punch Lane.
What do you think people love about Punch Lane? What you realise is that, like anything, it becomes part of the general public. Whether you are a hipster, an older rural person that stays at the Windsor or
12
You end up becoming the custodian for something. You have given birth
MELAMINE
DARLIN
Steelite
Acacia Wood Collection
CRAFT
MIXING BEAKERS
PERFECT SET OF CIRCUMSTANCES: A CORNER BLOCK, AN OLD RED BRICK BUILDING
Steelite
to something, but it belongs to everybody, like an old trust building or a centuries old tree - it is a part of everybody, you just have the key to it. What do you see for Punch Lane into the future? Hopefully more of the same. I would like to think Punch Lane could be in Melbourne for a long time to come and continue to be a part of it’s soul. A
Rona
a passion to inspire.... Cedar Hospitality is the industries choice for quality products, innovative ideas and foodservice concepts. Our 2000sqm showroom is fully equipped and our friendly sales team is happy to help with all your requirements.
Johnny Di Francesco
place where people, no matter where they come from, experience the kind of feeling you get when you are in older European or Asian cities, exploring an ancient temple or historic building. The feeling of going somewhere that has existed not just for a moment, but has had a life of it’s own. People connect with that feeling. The journey will continue on. Punch Lane will become part of the fabric of Melbourne and the pride we have in our city, and the way we see it going forward. I like to think that Punch Lane has a small part to play in that evolution. PUNCH LANE CUISINE: Modern Australian, Wine Bar ADDRESS: 43 Little Bourke St, Melbourne PH: 9639 4944 HOURS: Mon - Fri 12pm - 12am / Sat - Sun 5pm - 12am WEBSITE: www.punchlane.com.au TWITTER: @punchlane FACEBOOK: punchlane INSTAGRAM: punchlane
“
Cedar Hospitality helps bring European style to 400 Gradi. That’s why Cedar is my Hospitality Store
”
Johnny Di Francesco Owner/Chef
400 Gradi
99 Lygon Street, East Brunswick (03) 9380 2320
cedarhospitality.com
223 - 231 Brunswick Rd Brunswick VIC 3056 T: 03 9387 4455 F: 03 9387 4140 cedarsales@cedarhospitality.com WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
13
KICK ARSE: SERVING PROUD MARY SINGLE ORIGINS AND FILTER COFFEES
BRAE: EMPHATICALLY WORTH THE EFFORT
SPRUCED UP NEW RESTAURANT: CALM, SERENE SETTING
14
BRAE 4285 Cape Otway Road Birregurra. Ph: 03 5236 2226 Words and photos by Petit Miamx
ABOUT PETIT MIAMX Catherine has a penchant for all things fun and delicious with a large part of her day spent thinking about food – if she’s not eating, then she’s thinking about the next
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opportunity for a big foodie blowout. Her love of food also translates through to her travels around the world, sharing her experiences in her ‘petite travel guide’ series.
WWW.PETITMIAMX.COM.AU TWITTER: PETITMIAMX | INSTAGRAM: PETITMIAM_X
Hi, my name is Catherine and I will travel for good food. When George Biron
creamy, gelatinous texture after it melting in the mouth.
and Diane Garrett, co-owners of Sunnybrae, decided to let go of their hatted restaurant, word eventually spread that it had transitioned into the safe
My absolute favourite of the starters was the chopped prawns wrapped
hands of Dan Hunter after his departure from Royal Mail Hotel. We took the
in nasturtium leaves - fresh and sweet against the fragrant, citrus caviar.
opportunity to use Mr A’s birthday as an excuse to visit.
The burnt pretzel stick had a caramelised, savoury flavour to it and while I enjoyed the wallaby tartare with the lemon myrtle, I found that the flax
We were the first diners to arrive for the evening and entered into the calm,
cracker overwhelmed the wallaby with its nutty flavour and texture.
serene setting of the new restaurant. The interior has since been spruced up from its former identity and lucky for us, we were seated in prime position
Our waiter was appropriately passionate about their bread made in their
to look through into the action of the kitchen.
outdoor wood-fire oven. The crusty sour dough bread went beautifully with the salty and sour, curd-like butter; the cream sourced locally and then
The degustation menu ($180 per person) at Brae is made up of thirteen
churned in-house.
courses and is heavily geared towards ultilising local, home-grown and organic produce, dishes that reflect the philosophy of Dan Hunter.
A great start to the more substantial dishes was the tender calamari and the assortment of pickled cucumbers, turnip and herbs, providing a tangy zing
Unfortunately, we had decided not to book accommodation for that night so
against the silky, sweet calamari.
we weren’t able to indulge in the matched wines and settled with a glass of wine each. They do offer matched wines for an additional $120 per person.
The sea urchin and short fin eel were a medley of flavours from the ocean,
We started the meal with a series of smaller dishes. Crisp and fluffy, the
highlighted by the thin slivers of zucchini and macadamia cream. One of
beef tendon cracker was sprinkled with ground mountain pepper and had a
the highlights of the meal for me was the juicy lobster cooked in sea butter.
iris&floss art and design
restaurant and cafe art prints and posters menu design social media design and set up invitation design www.etsy.com.au/irisandfloss Facebook: Iris & Floss iris.floss@gmail.com
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15
The robust sea butter intensified the sweetness of the lobster and showcased
was, Mr A ended up demolishing his serving and then went on to finish the
the shellfish beautifully.
rest of mine (sadly, I was much too full to savour more than a bite).
The jumbuck was coated in a luscious herbed mayonnaise with hints of
With our meal coming to an end, we were presented with a sweet bite to
anchovy and underneath it all, char-grilled lettuce and broad bean puree
enjoy with tea. The ‘blood biscuit’ was made by incorporating pig’s blood
made up the rest of this flavoursome dish.
into the whipped egg yolks, to impart a savouriness to the short biscuit, topped with beetroot paste and berries.
While the next dish may have overwhelmed some at that stage of the meal, Mr A and I were completely smitten. The charred radicchio lent a smoky,
Dan Hunter has brought his magic touch to Birregurra, and shown a refined
bitterness to the velvety offal, and the crumbled dehydrated mandarin zest
and restrained style in the dishes while making the most of locally sourced
provided some relief to the taste buds from the decadent flavours.
and native produce, picked up from his days at two Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain, Mugaritz. Not to mention, I’m quietly pleased that Dan
The grass fed wagyu was so tender that the sharp steak knife provided was
Hunter’s exquisite dining experience is so much more accessible than before.
of no use. The quality of the meat shone through, complemented by raw shiitake mushrooms and salted radish.
Eight hours and over 300 kms later, we were happy to say that it was emphatically worth our time and efforts.
The first of the dessert courses started with discs of watermelon with native quandong berries, rhubarb and rosewater granita and a sweet pea sauce.
BRAE CUISINE: Modern Australian, Fine Dining
The next dessert was a delightful finale comprising of parsnip and apple.
ADDRESS: 4285 Cape Otway Road Birregurra
After slow roasting the parsnip, the innards were scraped out to make up the
HOURS: Lunch Fri - Mon / Dinner Thurs - Sun
apple and parsnip custard filling, and the remaining shell was deep fried to a
WEBSITE: braerestaurant.com
crisp. Alongside the dehydrated apples, Dan Hunter managed to execute an
TWITTER: @BraeRestaurant
exquisite twist of the classic apple pie. To emphasise how good the dessert
INSTAGRAM: braerestaurant
created
bonsoy
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baristas 16
Melbourne’s Rooftops
GRAM SPECIAL FEATURE
ASIAN BEER CAFE
FATHER’S OFFICE
Located in the heart of the CBD in the Melbourne Central Complex, Asian
Wander down Little Lonsdale St and you will come across a well-concealed set
Beer Café (or ABC, as it’s fondly known) is a multi-award winning venue.
of doors, complete with peephole and a copy of the 18th Amendment. Follow
ABC prides itself on providing a unique experience, with a vast menu of
the stairs to enter a world of glamour, luxury and danger; the world of a 1920’s
beers, wines and cocktails, and drink/food specials year round. Though
prohibition speakeasy.
a bustling venue any day of the week, ABC comes alive on Thursday and
Father’s Office features an impressive heated balcony area that wraps around
Saturday nights, with live DJ’s playing 90’s pop and hip-hop to help you
the venue, and is resplendent with décor reminiscent of the old world glamour
get the party started.
of the bootlegging age. Treat yourself to one of our famous cocktails whilst
The stunning balcony is open year round, offering toasty views of the
enjoying the stunning views of the tree lined State Library grounds.
Melbourne cityscape during the winter, and sunny views of the State
Father’s Office has not only a sweeping balcony space, but a bar and
Library during the summer. Known for its cheap eats and never ending drink specials, ABC has happy hour, $8 jugs and $4 pizzas every night of the week, plus amazing daily specials. Rain or shine, ABC’s undercover balcony guarantees an amazing new experience upon every visit. ADDRESS: Level 3 Melbourne Central/211 LaTrobe Street, Melbourne HOURS: Mon - Sun 11am - 1am WEB: www.asianbeercafe.com.au FACEBOOK: asianbeercafe TWITTER: @asianbeercafe INSTAGRAM: asianbeercafe
restaurant space as well, serving award winning food and drinks. Enjoy a $6 winter warmer overlooking the city, with our unbeatable happy hours every day, or finish up an evening with our half-priced late night dining. The balcony is open year round, and is perfect for both intimate dates and large group catch-ups. ADDRESS: 249 Little Lonsdale Street, Melbourne HOURS: Mon - Thurs 11am - 1am / Fri - Sat 11am - 3am / Sun 11am - 12pm WEB: www.fathersoffice.com.au | FACEBOOK: fathersofficemelbourne TWITTER: @fathersofficeqv | INSTAGRAM: fathersofficeqv
TRANSIT ROOFTOP BAR This groovy, New Orleans style cocktail bar, nestled at the top of the Transport Hotel at Federation Square, enjoys unrivalled views of Melbourne encompassing the arts precinct, Southbank and the Yarra River down to the MCG. In the afternoons the expansive deck area draws a sophisticated crowd to watch the sunset over Melbourne and enjoy a skilfully assembled cocktail and wine list as well as a cultured supper menu. As the night unfolds the dance floor heats up and the stage is graced by some of Melbourne’s best jazz and funk bands such as The Shuffle Club, Phoebe and the Night Creatures, and the Sarah C Band, to name but a few. Open from 3pm through till the cruisy, boozy early hours, Transit provides all the ingredients for a great night out under the stars! ADDRESS: Level 2 Transport Hotel - Federation Square Cnr. Swanston & Flinders Streets PH: 9654 8808 HOURS: Wed 3pm - 12am / Thurs - Sat 3pm - late / Sun 3pm - 12pm WEB: www.transitrooftopbar.com.au FACEBOOK: MelbRooftopBar WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
17
Stuff
WE LOVE A LOT
PRANA CHAI The Chai - Prana Chai was born after four years travelling around the globe, and returning to Melbourne with a simple idea: To do the best chai. Just like what we fell in love in south Asia and Nepal. We perfected the recipe in our St Kilda Café over the years and customers grew to know and love our chai. A Simple Philosophy - We are chai drinkers, not salesman. Our aim is to share the Prana that comes from chai and to help promote a calm frame of mind through our tea ceremony. We work hard and put a lot of effort into making an honest product that people can enjoy both in their homes and in their favorite café. The Natural Process - Our process is beautiful in its simplicity. We source fresh, whole spices from many parts of the world. We crack open and blend these spices with high quality black Ceylon tea, fresh ginger and Australian bush land honey that comes from highlands, all by hand. All the ingredients are natural. We do not use machines, additives or preservatives to ensure the Prana (life force) in our product stays intact. WWW.PRANACHAI.COM
MONTHLY FIX Monthly Fix is a delicious gourmet subscription service delivering small batch products from boutique local and regional suppliers directly to your door. At Monthly Fix we want you to experience new and interesting products and are on a mission to promote the best Australian, growers, makers and suppliers we can find! Each month we send you goodies that you wouldn’t find in your regular shop, to make your mouth water and heart flutter. All you need to do is pick your FIX! CURRENTLY MONTHLY FIX OFFERS: Chocolate, tea, gluten-free, coffee, superfoods, chilli and wine. And if you’re stuck there’s also a lucky dip. Monthly Fix is the ideal gift for any foodie, as well as the perfect solution for that person who is impossible to buy for! Subscriptions for 1, 3 or 6 months can be pre-purchased and are delivered to your door in a beautiful gift box. SPECIAL OFFER Enter the coupon GRAMFIX to receive 10% off any 3 Month Fix. Also, the first 50 subscribers will go into the draw to WIN a 6 month Fix of their choice. Offer valid until 30/6/14. GO TO WWW.MONTHLYFIX.COM.AU FOR MORE DETAILS
MINISTRY OF CURRY Located in the heart of Brunswick at 58 Lygon Street, lies a delicious and authentic Sri Lankan cuisine owned by Jagath Fernando. Offering a wide range of traditional Sri Lankan dishes, the rich and savoury flavours, spicy and colourful plates, and exotic spices and aromas, fill up this restaurant and bring the experience of Sri Lankan cuisine to life. Of their many specialties, some favourites created by chefs Nita Morin Pramachandra and Amitha Kolonnage, include the flavoursome devilled chicken, irresistible chilli crabs, crunchy fish patties and the light and crispy hopper. Also, vegetarian and vegan friendly, come on in and experience delicious and authentic Sri Lankan cuisine. ADDRESS: 58 Lygon Street, Brunswick East FOR BOOKINGS PHONE: 03 9381 1196 WWW.MINISTRYOFCURRY.COM.AU Photo: Nick Turner
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GRAM FEATURE
DITCH THE PEN. ORDERMATE GETTING RESTAURANTS PINWISE FOR AUGUST 1ST The sequence of paying by card has traditionally included the universal question “pin or sign?” By the 1st of August the question will be asked no more. With the eradication of customer signed payments, operators and businesses will need to ensure they are keeping up with the times. In the hospitality industry, where service is an essential ingredient in the equation, this transition will impact the traditional sequence of service. Customers will soon be required to maintain possession of their card throughout the entire transaction. So what will happen to tipping? OrderMate is looking after their customers with three completely integrated solutions that will maintain the customers’ ability to tip at the table. • Integrated EFTPOS is available in either mobile or hard wired units that links
MASTER CLASSES AND COOKING CLASSES AT SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET The LG Kitchen at South Melbourne Market is a creative, intimate and stylish kitchen where you can experience a range of classes. All the chefs that visit LG Kitchen are icons in the local cooking scene and people with extraordinary knowledge, experience, expertise and passion for their craft. Some of the amazing food talent you can learn from in the coming months include Chefs from Mamasita, Huxtable, St Ali, B’Stilla, Brutale, The Point, Hellenic Republic, Köy and Chin Chin.
directly with the POS. • PayPal provides diners with the ability to Pay@Table via their PayPal App to pay for their meal. • Aston Club allows patrons to open a bar tab through their App and pay when they are ready to leave without having to hurdle the bar. FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 1300 667 067 OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE WWW.ORDERMATE.COM.AU
With Master classes, cooking classes, walking tours, Lunch at the Chef’s Table and Market2Table casses there’s something for everyone. A deliciously good night out or a great gift idea. For the full schedule of classes, bookings and vouchers, visit: WWW.SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
ASTON CLUB EXCLUSIVE OFFER FOR GRAM READERS Aston Club and GRAM Magazine have teamed up to offer GRAM readers $10,000 worth of Aston Club vouchers. The voucher entitles all new Aston Club users to $10 credit for their first tab, at any venue that accepts Aston Club. Taking advantage of this special offer is easy: 1. Download and install the free Aston Club app 2. Select a venue from within the app 3. Press ‘ADD’ 4. Enter voucher code GRAMMAG 5. Open your tab
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SAKE IS A UNIQUE BEVERAGE: HOTTEST NEW DRINKING TREND
FOCUS ON: SAKE “No, no. I like sake. [sip] Especially when it’s served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit, like this is.” - James Bond Words by Leigh Hudson.
ABOUT LEIGH HUDSON After many years of drinking some of the finest sake in Japan, he now imports a range of sake for the Australian market. Leigh is also certified Sake Sommelier and is committed to bringing sake education and sake drinking to the mainstream of Australian drinking culture.
SAKESHOP.CHEFSARMOURY.COM
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TWITTER: @CHEFSARMOURY | FACEBOOK: SAKESHOPAU
The enjoyment of sake is in its infancy in Australia but there’s an undercurrent
Sake is a unique and challenging beverage for the Toji - master brewer - to
of sake lovers driving a revolution. For those in the know, sake is the hottest
make. In a process referred to as “multiple parallel fermentation”, they must
new drinking trend coming soon to a bar near you.
manage the conversion of starch into sugars and the conversion of sugars into alcohol in the same tank at the same time. That’s the equivalent to
So what is sake anyway? It’s neither a spirit, nor is it rice wine. Sake is a
treading water while playing the piano accordion.
unique beverage fermented from rice. The problem with rice is the sugars are bound up as starch, and if we think back to high school chemistry no
Sake is produced in almost every prefecture in Japan, but local consumption
sugar means no fermentation, ergo no fun.
has been in steady decline for a very long time. However in the west we are fast catching on that sake is a delicious and very food friendly drink. It has
Legend has it that about a gazillion years or go in Japan (give or take) the
no tannins, it’s gluten free, has lower acidity than wine and no preservatives.
village virgins would chew on mouthfuls of cooked rice and spit them into a bucket where natural yeast would fall and mix with the delicious expectorant.
And it is not just for sushi. Sake pairs well with salumi, cheese, simple pasta,
Enzymes from human saliva broke down the rice starch into simple sugars
anything with a hint of vinegar and a whole ocean of seafood.
and allow the yeast to create alcohol. The resulting mixture was used as an offering to the gods (probably because nobody was really tempted to drink
So how to choose? Well firstly a little about the classifications of sake.
it anyway). In the late 1900’s the Japanese government introduced a classification Thankfully it has come a long way from very humble beginnings.
system for sake. The Tokutei Meishoshu (special designation sake) is a
The Japanese are masters of innovation and they found by inoculating
classification system of premium sake making up approximately the top
rice with aspergillus oryzae (a type of mold the Japanese call Koji-kin), the
30% of sake production. The rest is referred to as Futsushu, or regular sake.
starch in rice would convert into sugar. I’m not sure if this was driven by a
It varies in quality from cheap and cheerful to quite drinkable.
dislike of saliva or a lack of virgins, but this was “the eureka” moment for sake makers. So the basic ingredients for sake are rice, water, koji-kin, yeast
Futsushu tends to be the cheap one-cups sold in the local convenience store
and a whole lot of love.
or in liquor shops in milk carton style packaging but there are some bargain
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TRADITION CALLS FOR SAKE TO BE ENJOYED IN TINY CERAMIC CUPS: SMALL LIPPED WINEGLASSES ARE JUST AS GOOD
basement gems out there if you care to look. Caveat emptor – you’ve got to
Although tradition calls for sake to be enjoyed in tiny ceramic cups, we find
kiss a lot of frogs before you find a prince.
a wineglass with a small diameter lip is just as good. While writing this I am enjoying a cracking Ginjo sake from a hotel room in a champagne flute.
Basically if you drink anywhere in the Tokutei Meishoshu your chances of drinking good sake are almost guaranteed. Like anything, there are rules,
In terms of hot VS cold, most premium sake is designed to be enjoyed chilled
and like anything worth doing the rules are confusing.
however some are enjoyable over a wide temperature range. For cold around 5-10 °C is a good start and for hot try about 40-45 °C. A reputable retailer
To make sake, rice is milled to varying degrees. The more that it is milled the
or sommelier will be able to guide you as to the best drinking temperature.
higher the grade it qualifies as. For the sake novice, it can be a daunting choice trying to navigate Top of the tree is Daiginjo, the rice is milled so that only 50% (or less) of
unfathomable labels in a foreign language. Some retailers, such as Chef’s
the rice grain remains. Ginjo is the next cab off the rank with a minimum of
Armoury in Richmond, have developed a unique system of choosing sake.
60% remaining. Just to make it totally confusing a tiny amount of brewers
Parameters like sweet to dry, apparent acidity, umami and aroma can be
alcohol can be added prior to pressing albeit for totally altruistic reasons. If
filtered on the website to help the uninitiated make an easy choice.
no alcohol is added the word Junmai (pure rice) can be added in front of the words Ginjo or Daiginjo making two more classes Junmai Ginjo and Junmai
If all else fails try a bottle of the popular Oita Hida Takayama Junmai Ginjo.
Daiginjo. Honjozo and Junmai (by itself) make up the final fifth and sixth premium classifications.
SAKE SHOP BY CHEF’S ARMOURY ADDRESS: 422 Church St Richmond
Although choosing sake from the top classifications is almost a guarantee of
PH: 9429 1139
drinking well, be aware that sake is best consumed young. Unlike wine when
HOURS: Mon – Sat 10:30am – 4:30pm
a brewer releases their sake they are telling you, “This product is ready to
WEBSITE: sakeshop.chefsarmoury.com
drink and we want you to enjoy it now”. The now tends to be within about
TWITTER: @sakeshopAU
12 months of bottling and after the bottle is opened it will never taste better
FACEBOOK: SakeshopAU
than the first few days but can be consumed over about a week.
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Vegetarian Melbourne
TRIPPY TACOS
PHOTO: Nick Turner
GRAM FEATURE
VEGIE BAR
Vegetarian or not, everyone knows Trippy Taco. And if you don’t, well,
Located in the Fitzroy area, The Vegie Bar has been feeding the
you should!
Melbourne community with healthy, wholesome, fresh and affordable vegetarian and vegan dishes for over 25 years.
This fast, fresh and upbeat place has been pumping out amazing Mexican style, vegetarian food since 2000, pre-empting the Mexican
With over 50 dishes on the menu and several specials inspired daily, the
wave by a decade and establishing itself as one of Melbourne’s most
Vegie Bar takes cuisines from all over the world and focuses on honest
popular eateries!
hearty food, with little human preparation. Fully licensed, join them for a
Of their many specialties, come on in and try a tofu asada burrito, sweet corn tamale, famous and addictive Trippy Fries and then chase it all
drink in their cozy bar, built in the 19th century, where they offer organic and biodynamic wines and local brews or enjoy some health tonics and freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. You can enjoy a lovely meal
down with Trippy’s mean Margarita.
in their timeworn warehouse or outdoor courtyard, seven days a week for
The menu is 100% vegetarian and nearly everything can be made vegan as well as gluten free
Lunch and Dinner, with Breakfast available on the weekends. Come try it out for yourself what a healthy, wholesome, and vegetarian 25
ADDRESS: 234 Gertrude St
years in the making tastes like!
HOURS: Mon - Sun 11am - 1am
ADDRESS: 380 Brunswick St, Fitzroy
WEB: www.trippytaco.com
HOURS: Mon - Fri 11am - 10pm / Sat - Sun 9am - 10pm
FACEBOOK: TrippyTaco
WEB: vegiebar.com.au
TWITTER: @trippytaco
FACEBOOK: Vegie-BarOfficial-Page | INSTAGRAM: vegiebar
GREEN PRESS Tucked away on Little Collins Street, Green Press is a CBD oasis for the vegetable enthusiast. Created by two brothers from Alice Springs and a girlfriend from Brooklyn, Green Press was born to cater to the up and coming craze of high nutrient filled and healthy cold pressed juices. The progressive menu is 100% dairy free, sourcing all produce locally throughout Victoria. From cold pressed juices, acai bowls, elixir shots and dairy free smoothies, everything is produced in store including their unique salads and homemade falafel, which is made from kale juice pulp. Catering to all dietary needs, Green Press doesn’t put labels on themselves, despite most of their items being gluten free and vegan. Green Press just began trading on Saturday’s to keep up with Melbourne’s demand for health. ADDRESS: Shop 7, 525 Little Collins St, Melbourne PH: 9973 8286 HOURS: Mon - Fri 7:30am - 5pm / Sat 9:30am - 3pm PHOTO: Elly Freer
WEB: www.lovegreenpress.com.au INSTAGRAM: LoveGreenPress | FACEBOOK: LoveGreenPress
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© 2000 - MIRAMAX ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
KICK ARSE: SERVING PROUD MARY SINGLE ORIGINS AND FILTER COFFEES
© DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. AND PIXAR ANIMATION STUDIOS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
© 2009 COLUMBIA PICTURES. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
© 1987 METRO-GOLDWYN-MAYER STUDIOS INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
MEALS AMONGST THE REELS “Hamburgers! The cornerstone of any nutritious breakfast.” - Jules Winnfield (Pulp Fiction 1994) Words by Tim Baxter.
ABOUT TIM BAXTER With over 25 years experience in the food and drinks industry, Tim is the owner of one of central Victoria’s most celebrated restaurants, The Dispensary Enoteca, located in Bendigo. Despite having grown up wanting to play cricket for Australia, Tim is now celebrated as one of the countries finest authorities on food and drinks.
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“If Tim Baxter has not created the best all-round drinks list in Australia, he must be close”. PHOTO: ANDY H PHOTOGRAPHY
The Age Epicure, 2012
Once upon a time, going to the movies meant two hours of intense character
As a child I remember being equally freaked out and enthralled by the
based dialogue, detailed plots, stunning props, intricate back drops and
wildly beastly and exotic (though hardly Indian) spread of monkey’s brains,
clever witty twists… mostly it now seems to be 85 minutes of CGI, animation,
slithering snake inside snakes, goat’s eye soup and beetles served up to
superheroes, remakes, sequels and constant frenetic explosions. The movie
Indiana Jones (Harrison Ford) and cohorts in The Temple of Doom. Similarly
industry sure has changed. But looking back to many of the great movies
the decadence of the dining table in Pan’s Labyrinth is equal parts one of the
of our time, I often notice the use of food as so much more than just a
most breathtaking and eerie food scenes ever filmed. The overwhelmingly
background prop.
majesty of the Technicolor dishes and their layout is tempered only by the hauntingly ethereal and frightening apprehension of what is all around.
Of course some movies centre food as the principal theme and subject
I can only assume that the director, Guillermo del Toro got his motivation
matter, like Babette’s Feast, Eat Drink, Man Woman, Big Night, Julie & Julia,
from watching Peter Greenaway’s stupendous 1989 visual masterpiece,
and my personal favourite, the Academy Award winning Ratatouille; an
The Cook, The Thief, His Wife and Her Lover, which featured a visceral and
insightfully written Pixar “kids” movie that near perfectly encapsulated
virtually nonstop showcase of the most vibrant food ever shot on screen.
the constant frustrations and dizzying heights of modern kitchens. Being set in Paris no doubt helps frame the beautiful vision of what is essentially
Pulp Fiction, the film that has changed more in film in my lifetime than any
a classic love story. It’s high point - the fiendishly hysterical (dare I say
other, featured more perfectly scripted lines about food and drink than any
accurate!) portrayal of food critic Anton Ego, who with a voice dripping
episode of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations”. Who can forget the $5
like liquid velvet (the immortal Peter O’Toole) steals the show. Interestingly
milkshake that didn’t contain Bourbon, the truly sexy mention of blueberry
co-writer/director Brad Bird even interned at Thomas Keller’s restaurant
pie, the Royale with cheese, and, for my money, arguably the finest line
The French Laundry (one of the world’s 50 best restaurants) to get a feel
about fast food ever put to screen; in a claustrophobic apartment Jules
for things – kudos to him.
Winnfield (Samuel L. Jackson) is on the cusp of delivering one of cinema’s most acerbic and least magnanimous monologues when he sprouts the line
Many of the world’s great films have used food as an integral element to
“Hamburgers! The cornerstone of any nutritious breakfast”. I’ve craved a
shape a scene, develop a character, or in some cases, even igniting sexual
Big Kahuna burger ever since.
tension (I promise I won’t mention Marlon Brando and a slab of rapidly melting butter…).
For the downright sexy contributions food has given cinema, its hard to look past the film Chocolat, which featured two of the world’s most aesthetically
I can’t imagine seeing Rusty Ryan (Brad Pitt) wise cracking in the Ocean’s
pleasing and desired actors, Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche weaving
trilogy without continually eating. His reliance in almost every scene to be
a flirtatious dance through the bucolic French countryside in the 1950s
snacking was as much a part of his character as his pimp suits, svelte boyish
whilst metaphorically dripping in the world’s most desired food - chocolate.
good looks or Ted Nugent’s shirts.
Topping that with unadulterated titillation was Kim Basinger doing her submissive best on the kitchen floor whilst Mickey Rourke had fed her a
I don’t know about you, but for the past 25 years I’ve always thought about
fridge full of tasty morsels in 9 ½ Weeks. And surely lobster has never been
slicing my garlic with a razor blade – the only way to get it so thin “that it
so succulently desirable than when a scantily clad, half tuxedoed Jennifer
liquefies in the pan”; a magically taught lesson in Martin Scorsese’s magnum
Beals suggestively toys with her swanky meal in Flashdance.
opus – Goodfellas. And speaking of the great New York director, its hard to forget perhaps cinema’s greatest ever beautiful loser, boxer Jake LaMotta
And finally, if you are just after downright simplistic foodie belly laughs,
(Robert De Niro) manically instructing his wife to not over cook his steak,
then check out the impressive artery hardening order from Harold and
after-all “It defeats its purpose”.
Kumar who finally get their desires met at White Castle or John Travolta’s Tony Manero strutting like a street walking cheetah with a double stacked pizza in Saturday Night Fever’s opening scene.
WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
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COCONUT PUMPKIN KORMA SOUP
26
SMOKEY WONTON SOUP
RECIPE: WINTER SOUPS Recipe and photos by The Kind Cook.
ABOUT THE KIND COOK The Kind Cook is the creation of Melanie from Melbourne, Australia. Mel is a qualified chef who trained and cooked professionally in Australia for 10 years. She then lived and worked professionally in Canada and the UK. She is an avid world traveller, vegan food blogger, cooking teacher, impassioned food photographer, freelance magazine writer and zealous foodie of over twenty years.
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WWW.THEKINDCOOK.COM | FACEBOOK: THEKINDCOOK
SMOKEY WONTON SOUP
and press them together firmly with your fingers into whatever shape you
TAKES: 30 minutes
prefer. Continue until all the wontons are complete.
DIFFICULTY: Medium SERVES: Two large serves or four small
Carefully place the wontons into the broth and cook very gently for a few minutes until the wrappers are cooked through. This takes about 5
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon of rice bran oil 1 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 large clove of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped 100 grams of button mushrooms, roughly chopped 1.5 litres of vegan chicken stock ¼ cup of soy sauce 1.5 tablespoon of Chinese rice wine 1 teaspoon of minced ginger ¼ cup of smoked almonds ¼ cup of spring onions (also known as scallions) ¼ teaspoon of salt 16 wonton wrappers another ½ cup of spring onions, washed and sliced on a long angle Extra spring onion for garnish Sesame oil for garnish
minutes. Once the wontons are cooked, serve the soup immediately. Garnish with the rest of the spring onion and a few drops of sesame oil. To make it more of a meal, simply add generous amounts of steamed Asian greens. Notes: It’s crucial that the wontons are sealed at the edges or they will break up when you cook them. Absolutely make sure that you don’t boil the broth when you are cooking the wontons too.
COCONUT PUMPKIN KORMA SOUP TAKES: 30 minutes DIFFICULTY: Easy SERVES: Up to four
INGREDIENTS
METHOD 1kg of pumpkin that has been peeled, seeded and cut into small chunks Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onions until they soften and
(I used Kent pumpkin)
caramelise. Add the garlic and cook on a gentle heat for a couple more
250ml coconut cream
minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook for about 10 minutes until they are
750ml of water
also softened and browned, then turn the heat off.
3 teaspoons of Massel vegetable stock 6 teaspoons of korma paste
While the mushrooms are cooking place the “chicken stock”, Chinese rice wine, soy sauce and ginger into a large pot. Bring to the boil and then turn
METHOD
down to a gentle simmer while you make the wontons. Put the water and stock into a large pot. Whisk to combine and start to bring When the mushrooms mixture is ready scrape it into a blender, add the
to the boil.
¼ cup spring onions, the salt and the smoked almonds and blend until smooth.
Add the pumpkin to the stock as soon as it is chopped up. Once the pumpkin is in the stock and the stock has come to the boil turn it down to a simmer
Lay the wonton wrappers in rows along your bench top. Dip your fingers
and cook until the pumpkin is tender.
into some clean water and run them around the edge of the wonton wrapper Place about a teaspoon of mushroom mixture into the centre
Add the coconut cream and korma paste and blend.
of each wrapper. Bring the sides of the wonton wrapper up till they meet
Enjoy. It’s delicious.
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27
BRIDGE ROAD DARK HARVEST: BRIDGE ROAD BREWERS BEECHWORTH
28
FROM LEFT: CRITTENDEN ESTATE OGGI 2012, DEXTER CHARDONNAY 2012 AND BRASH HIGGINS NERO D’AVOLA 2013
BEER REVIEWS Words and photo by On the Bandwagon.
ABOUT ON THE BANDWAGON Trev spends most weekends drinking craft beer, playing guitar really loud while drinking craft
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beer and eating as much amazing food as he can stomach – whilst drinking craft beer. He founded Bendigo Beer to legitimise his addiction and hang out with some awesome people. Loves a chat.
TWITTER: @ONTHE_BANDWAGON | INSTAGRAM: ONTHE_BANDWAGON
Bridge Road Dark Harvest
the Rostrevor Hop Garden research and breeding program and select yet
Bridge Road Brewers Beechworth
to be named hop cultivars to use in this beer. This means we get to roam the research block picking and sniffing some brand new hop varieties with
You don’t know the power of the dark side. OK, May the Fourth has been
really interesting characteristics.”
and gone, but this beer has some serious allure that would make Luke Skywalker turn his back on Yoda and rent a Death Star apartment.
This year’s Dark Harvest has the rich malt base, fluffy tan head and almost black colour we’ve come to expect from previous releases, but the 2014
Ben Kraus and the team at Bridge Road in Beechworth first made this Dark
version has a more pronounced citrus and sweet toffee experience.
Harvest Ale with Danish gypsy brewer Mikkel Borg Bjergsø of Mikkeller in 2012 when they created a one off brew at night (inspiring the “Dark”
A limited release, this is one is a must-try in the coming weeks, but be
theme) during hop harvest season.
quick!
This beer is a wet hop ale which means hops are picked and almost
BRIDGE ROAD DARK HARVEST STATS
immediately used in the brewing process, rather than being kiln dried.
ABV: 6.6%
Wet hops still have the base floral and bitter notes you get with kiln dried
Style: Black Wet Hop Ale
hops but there is more intensity and vibrancy.
Serving Temperature: 6 - 8 degrees Food Pairing: Fresh oysters with citrus dressing
The striking pine and yes, floral notes I got from this beer definitely proved
Origin: Beechworth, Victoria
this theory and against a big malt profile, I was in beer heaven. I asked Ben
Price (RRP): 330ml $9 / 24 x 330ml $110
what he loved about making this beer, “Each year we are given access to
Buy it here: bridgeroadbrewers.com.au/beers/special-releases/the-dark-harvest
WARM UP
FULL RANGE OF LE CREUSET CAST IRON COOKWARE
IN STORE AND ONLINE
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29
30
FROM LEFT: ROUTE DU VAN DOLCETTO SHIRAZ 2012, FIGHTING GULLY ROAD AGLIANICO 2012, CAMPBELLS BOBBIE BURNS SHIRAZ 2012.
WINE REVIEWS Words and photos by La Donna Del Vino.
ABOUT LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this young lady from Melbourne who worked in wineries throughout Australia and Italy. After years of gallivanting she returned to Melbourne to market wine and share her love of all things vinous. In her spare time she enjoys cooking, gardening, drinking good vino and is a selfconfessed Neb Head (someone really into Nebbiolo).
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WWW.LADONNADELVINO.COM TWITTER: @LADONNADELVINO | FACEBOOK: LA-DONNA-DEL-VINO
ROUTE DU VAN Dolcetto Shiraz 2012
The Aglianico grape is most famous in the southern Campania region of
King Valley/Alpine Valley, Victoria
Italy. Mark got hold of some cuttings and had 1450 vines planted back in
RRP $22
2009 overlooking the Ovens Valley on an old bush vine trellising system called the quincunx. This method allows for minimal input in the vineyard
I was introduced to Ian Bird after receiving an email where he asked if I
outside of pruning and harvesting. The winemaking was also quite basic
would like to see their Route du Van wines. A few weeks later when he was
with a hot ferment that is then matured in large wood, although in Mark’s
flying back from the UK, we met in person and I was able to taste their wine
case, he had barely enough to fill one hogshead barrel. We’re not talking
that has proved a success story on the export market; this blend of 79%
large quantities here.
Dolcetto and 21% Shiraz. Route du Van is a labour of love for Ian Bird, his brother David and winemaker Tod Dexter. The north west of Italy and their
The result is beautifully Australian and unique with aromas of eucalyptus
juicy, finely tannic red wines inspired the blend.
and myrtle leaf alongside purple and black berries. There is medium acidity and chalky tannins that provide a nice earthy tone to the finish. I wonder
The nose opens wonderfully with classic Dolcetto elements of blood plum,
whether it would be interesting to see this a bit riper, but it is still one of the
blueberry liqueur and violets, while the Shiraz component seems to add
better examples I have tasted of the Aglianico grape in Australia. For the
fruitcake spice notes. The texture is voluptuous with a smooth entry and
full pleasure spectrum, try this with a hearty stew or soup.
mouth filling effect. The medium-bodied nature of the tannins and long acidity further highlight the blend being dominant in Dolcetto. While it is
Stockist: King & Godfree, Carlton
not as savoury as a straight Dolcetto might be, the palate exemplifies great balance as a quirky take on what we can do here in Australia by blending
CAMPBELLS Bobbie Burns Shiraz 2012
a classic red grape like Shiraz with something less conventional. Try the
Rutherglen, Victoria
Route du Van with anything that can come out of a wood fired pizza oven.
RRP $20
Stockist: See Route du Van website for details
Bobbie Burns is a stalwart of the industry. It is actually the name of a vineyard worked by Scotsman, John Campbell, who decided in 1870 to
FIGHTING GULLY ROAD Aglianico 2012
dedicate his life to the grape instead of gold. Today the Campbell family
Alpine Valley, Victoria
carry on the efforts of their ancestors and continue to produce this much-
RRP $38
loved wine that ticks all the boxes for warm-climate Shiraz drinkers.
I am a big fan of Mark Walpole, the vigneron behind this wine. For starters,
The glass opens with generous fruit aromas of stewed raspberries and
he can wear a sophisticated floral shirt like no other and owns a Piaggio Ape
mulberries, lifted hints of vanilla and a touch of kola nut. The palate is
that he tootles around in around Beechworth. For this alone we could be
immediately smooth on the intake with medium tannins and a nice silky
immediate friends. However our friendship had more humble beginnings,
finish. Throw in flavours of mixed spice and you have all the elements you
developing a few years ago over discussion on Italian grapes and wine, a
need for a perfectly adequate pairing to a seared steak or beef burger.
subject that Mr Walpole is highly regarded for here in Australia. Stockist: Boccaccio Cellars, Balwyn
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WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING STREET FEUD Photos: Brook James A good ol’ fashion street feud played out on April 27, with Corona presenting a magnificent combination of Melbourne’s favourite side-walk finger food at Circa. Acland St Cantina, Hanoi Hannah, Saigon Sally, Charlie Dumpling, Newmarket Hotel and Fonda battled it out for the unofficial title. Charlie Dumpling was crowned the winner. www.melbournepubgroup.com.au
MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL COFFEE EXPO Photos: Nick Turner
Melbourne Showgrounds played host to the Melbourne International Coffee Expo (MICE) from May 15 - 18. With over 140 exhibitors, the expo was a sight to behold. Matt Perger took out the World Cup in Good Spirits Championships and Craig Simon of Think Tank Coffee was named 2014 Australian Barista Champion. www.internationalcoffeeexpo.com
WHAT’S NEW
WHAT’S ON
> LE GRILL
> AMAROK BAR & RESTAURANT
OPENING: June 2014
OPENED: May 2, 2014
CUISINE: Burgers, Modern Australian
CUISINE: Modern Australian, Bar
ADDRESS: Rear 336 Burwood Rd Hawthorn
ADDRESS: Southgate Complex, MR6
FACEBOOK: Le-Grill
> 30 MAY - 1 JUNE 2014 Good Food and Wine Show Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre More info: www.goodfoodshow.com.au
3 Southgate Ave, Southbank
> 7 - 8 JUNE
WEB: www.amarokbarrestaurant.com.au
> SHINWA IZAKAYA
FACEBOOK: Amarok-Bar-Restaurant
OPENED: May 21, 2014
TWITTER: AmarokBar
CUISINE: Japanese ADDRESS: 139 Sydney Rd Brunswick
> RUE & CO.
FACEBOOK: shinwa3056
OPENED: May 2014 CUISINE: Greek, Korean, Cafe Fare, Coffee
> CHARLIE & CO. BURGERS
FEATURING: St Ali, Jimmy Grants and Kong
OPENED: May 15, 2014
ADDRESS: 80 Collins St
CUISINE: Burgers, Modern Australian
FACEBOOK: RueandCo
Rutherglen Winery Walkabout 57 Main Street, Rutherglen More info: www.winemakers.com.au
> 7 - 9 JUNE 2014 Winter Wine Weekend Red Hill Showgrounds 180 Arthurs Seat Road, Red Hill South More info: www.mpva.com.au
ADDRESS: Emporium Melbourne, 287 Lonsdale St
> PATBINGSOO
FACEBOOK: charliecoburgers
OPENED: April 22, 2014
> THE BLUE DOG
CUISINE: Korean
OPENED: May 7, 2014
ADDRESS: 128 York St, South Melbourne
CUISINE: Burgers, Pizza, Tapas
WEB: www.patbingsoo.com.au
ADDRESS: 590 Park Road, Park Orchards
FACEBOOK: patbingsoomelb
FACEBOOK: bluedogbar
TWITTER: @patbingsoomelb
> GRAFALI COFFEE ROASTERS
> PROMISED LAND COFFEE
OPENED: May 5, 2014
OPENED: April 22, 2014
CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee
CUISINE: Coffee roaster: Specialty coffee
ADDRESS: 58 Bridge Road, Richmond
PH: 0466 418 990
FACEBOOK: grafalicoffee
WEB: www.promisedlandcoffee.com TWITTER: @promisedlandcof
> KENOBI COCKTAIL BAR
FACEBOOK: Promisedlandcoffee
OPENED: May 3, 2014 CUISINE: Asian, Indonesia, Cocktails
> FAT PENGUIN
ADDRESS: 388 Lonsdale St, Melbourne
OPENED: April 20, 2014
WEB: www.kenobibar.com.au
CUISINE: Cafe Fare, Coffee
FACEBOOK: kenobibar
ADDRESS: 713 High Street, Kew WEB: www.fatpenguincafe.com.au
> LUXEMBOURG BISTRO
FACEBOOK: fatpenguincafe
OPENED: May 2014
> 7 JUNE 2014 Whole Beast Feast Goldmines Hotel 49-57 Marong Rd, Bendigo More info: www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au > 13 JUNE 2014 Brewer for a Day Bright Brewery 121 Gavan Street, Bright More info: www.brightbrewery.com.au
> 17 JUNE 2014 MPH Regional Showcase Dinner: Daylesford Middle Park Hotel 102 Canterbury Road, Middle Park More info: www.melbournepubgroup.com.au > 20 JUNE Market Roast Lunch and Tour LG Kitchen, Cecil Street South Melbourne Market More info: www.southmelbournemarket.com.au
CUISINE: French, International, Organic ADDRESS: 157 Fitzroy St, St Kilda WEB: www.luxembourgbistro.com.au
BOOK REVIEW
> 22 JUNE 2014 BBQ Throwdown: NMH v San Telmo Newmarket Hotel 24 Inkerman Street, St Kilda More info: www.melbournepubgroup.com.au
MY PETITE KITCHEN COOKBOOK
> 24 JUNE 2014
by Eleanor Ozich Published by Murdoch Books RRP: $39.99
There is something quite beautiful about this recipe book. I don’t know if it is the fact that it is quite clearly a labour of love, or the fact that I’ve followed Eleanor’s blog for a while now, and instantly recognised her photographic style. Needless to say, I was delighted when my copy arrived. Eleanor Ozich is a self taught cook, and her food philosophy is something that most people can relate to: simple, seasonal, inexpensive and of course, nutritious. My Petite Kitchen Cookbook showcases this quite beautifully. The cookbook features more than 100 gluten-free, wholefood recipes that will nurture your body and soul, and inspire you as we move into winter.
Estelle Wine Series Dinner Number Two: Wines of the Loire Valley Estelle Wine Bar 243 High Street, Northcote More info: www.estellebarkitchen.com.au
For more upcoming events, please visit grammagazine.com.au
Some of my favourites include braised lentils in a rich tomato and preserved lemon sauce, red wine, rosemary and garlic beef pie and the maple and pecan tart that sent me right back to my Grandmother’s kitchen table. Not only are the recipes easy to follow, featuring ingredients that are not difficult to find, they are stunningly illustrated in photographs shot by Eleanor herself.
Thanks to Murdoch Books, we have three copies of My Petite Kitchen Cookbook to give away. Email competitions@grammagazine.com.au for your chance to win a copy.
INSTA LOVE Thanks @pietabucello for this stunning pic of our May front cover!
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