GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 47 FREE
PLEASE TAKE ME HOME
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CONTENTS EATING OUT
INTERVIEW
A25 PIZZERIA 720 Chapel Street, South Yarra Haynes and Bruce
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CAFE 51 51 Buckhurst St, South Melbourne Burgers of Melbourne
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GRAM GUIDE
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CHEESE The Eight Cheese Types you Need to Know.
SLATER ST. BENCH Shop 8, 431 St Kilda Road, Melbourne Advanced Food Falconry WINE BANK ON VIEW 45 View Street, Bendigo Tim Baxter and Amanda Malone
YOTAM OTTOLENGHI Iron Chef Shellie
COOKING 10
REGULARS 28
VIETNAMESE VERMICELLI SALAD The Kind Cook CHILLI, MINT AND BEAN SHOOT SALAD The Kind Cook
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CONTRIBUTORS
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A COFFEE WITH
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NEWLY OPENED
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NEWS AND THE LIKE
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THINGS WE LOVE
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REVIEWS
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OUT AND ABOUT
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THE DIARY
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DISTRIBUTORS
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ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY
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ON THE COVER: CAPSICUM Capsicum annuum, C. frutescens The stronger the colour of the capsicum, the higher the concentration level of anti-oxidants. A small capsicum could provide up to three times more of the recommended daily amount of vitamin C, much more than any citrus food. Each colour of the capsicum have different phytochemicals and provide different nutrients.
Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
Editor JESS HOURIGAN Art and Design ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au
advertising@grammagazine.com.au info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au
CAB AUDITED
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CONTRIBUTORS
TIM BAXTER With over 25 years’ experience in the food and drinks industry, Tim is the owner of one of central Victoria’s most celebrated restaurants, The Dispensary Enoteca, located in Bendigo.
HAYNES AND BRUCE With many years combined communications experience in the realm of music, food, fashion, design, politics and beyond, Georgia Haynes and Lauren Bruce have worked on photo shoots, event photography, written and taken photos for various media outlets, written ministerial speeches, managed media at high profile events and much more. Together, they have produced feature articles, managed social media for a range of clients, and continue to work on creative projects focused on community development. haynesandbruce.com
Tim is know as one of the country’s finest authorities on food and drinks. “If Tim Baxter has not created the best all-round drinks list in Australia, he must be close”. The Age Epicure, 2012
BURGERS OF MELBOURNE Burgers of Melbourne is run by one Melbourne guy that just loves burgers. I eat, picture and review the burgers of Melbourne. burgersofmelbourne.com.au
Michèle Froidevaux, or Shellie as she is more often known as, is a freelance photographer, food stylist and designer. She is most known for her crazy cakes, late night baking and over achieving. She runs food styling and photography workshops throughout the year in Victoria and Tasmania. You’ll most usually find her in search of bacon or a donut! ironchefshellie.com
ADVANCED FOOD FALCONRY Hi my name is Michael, I run a new site, Advanced Food Falconry, which is yet another Melbourne-based cafe blog in an already over saturated segment. So I hope to keep things different and interesting, usually by entwining food topics with other jazz. advancedfoodfalconry.com
THE KIND COOK The Kind Cook is the creation of Melanie from Melbourne, Australia. Mel is a qualified chef who trained and cooked professionally in Australia for 10 years. She then lived and worked professionally in Canada and the UK. She is an avid world traveller, vegan food blogger, cooking teacher, impassioned food photographer, freelance magazine writer and zealous foodie of over twenty years. thekindcook.com
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IRON CHEF SHELLIE
A COFFEE WITH
LAUREN BRUCE AND GEORGIA HAYNES The creative minds behind Haynes&Bruce, and regular GRAM contributors, we got together for a coffee to find out a little more about them.
Making crostoli with my nonna when I was little would
a photographer/designer, and we work together as
have to be my favourite.
Haynes&Bruce, our copywriting and photography business. Check us out on
FIRST CHOICE IN DRINKS?
www.haynesandbruce.com!
Lauren: Very very cold Asahi. Georgia: Corona with lemon. BEST FOOD MEMORY Lauren: There are so so so many! Eating at La Gabinoteca in Madrid, Spain – their coddled egg with truffle, butter and potato puree is the best thing I’ve ever eaten. At home, my Polish nana’s tomato soup, zupa pomidorowa with sour cream and rice, is delicious. Georgia: Growing up with in country Victoria with in an Italian family, I have lots of great food memories.
WHERE CAN WE FIND YOU MOST WEEKENDS? Lauren: At Collective Espresso in Camberwell, drinking
CHEESE PLATE OR DESSERT MENU?
copious amounts of coffee, eating their delish smashed
Lauren: Both, obviously. Some sort of chocolate peanut
avocado and fetta on toast and plotting our next move.
butter parfait should be involved. Georgia: Cheese plate all the way. Has to include a blue
HOW DO YOU TAKE YOUR COFFEE?
vein cheese and sopressa.
Lauren: Most of the time a strong latte, but if it’s later in the day, maybe a long mac.
DO YOU HAVE A DAY JOB?
Georgia: Soy latte.
Lauren: I’m a freelance writer/stylist and Georgia is
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NOW OPEN PHAMILY KITCHEN OPENED: January 15 This place is blue. Like a smurf-exploded-all-over-the-place, kind of blue! But what Phamily Kitchen also is, (other than blue), is really darn good Vietnamese. Owner Michael Pham, says the eccentric colour scheme was designed to pay homage to classic Vietnamese kitchens. It seems that was the bill for the food too. Serving traditional dishes such as bún, pho, rice paper rolls, Phamily Kitchen is one to try in 2015. 374 SMITH STREET COLLINGWOOD phamilykitchen.com.au
POP UP SCROLL OPENED: November 2015 Pop Up Scroll is Melbourne’s first scroll boutique. Serving up freshly baked scrolls made on site each morning alongside carefully prepared ‘Coffee Supreme’ coffee. As the name suggests, Pop Up Scroll is only around for a short time (until May to be precise) but there are already big plans in the pipeline for the next project due to open straight after the pop up closes its doors. 86 SMITH STREET COLLINGWOOD eatascroll.com.au facebook.com/PopUpScroll
ENTRECÔTE OPENED: January 15, 2015 Entrecôte, the brain child of Jason M Jones (Prix Fixe, Friends of Mine and The Tables of Como) and Adam North, offers classic cafe offerings with subtle and delicious French flair. Open from 7am for breakfast, through to lunch and dinner, South Yarra’s newest establishment ticks all the boxes. From steak frites for lunch to oysters and Champagne for dinner. 133 DOMAIN ROAD SOUTH YARRA entrecote.com.au
ST. HOTEL RE-OPENED: December 18, 2014 The newly opened St. Hotel gives patrons the opportunity to explore, experience and engage in all aspects of this multi-tiered and multi-faceted hospitality complex. Head Chef Sean Judd, who worked with Thai food guru, David Thompson heads up a team of highly qualified chefs who bring skill, vision and dedication to present a menu of authentic Thai food highlighted with regional and seasonal influences. The dining room features a lush vertical garden, exposed brick walls and timber banquettes and the adjacent sunken dining area offer an intimate dining space for groups of up to 15.
The Public Bar, open daily from 11am, is punctuated by burnished copper beer pipes that rise from the bar like an art installation – these pipes bring a thoughtful range of craft and imported beers. Take the journey upstairs and immerse yourself in the intimate, New York inspired Supper Club. As if this all wasn’t enough, the Social Club is where all the fun happens. The nightspot plays host to selected acoustics and leading DJ’s. 54 FITZROY STREET ST KILDA sthotel.com.au
MON AMOUR XO OPENED: January 12, 2015 Mon Amour XO is open every day and serve array of dishes from simple pastries to full meals for breakfast, brunch and lunch. Charcuterie, smørrebrød and European cheeses are all on offer, and the venue transforms into a wine bar in the evenings. 67 CARDIGAN PLACE ALBERT PARK monamourxo.com.au | facebook.com/Mon-Amour-XO | twitter: MonAmourXO
PROPER & SON OPENED: January 15, 2015 Bringing the market to you on a plate. This new twist on a modern carvery serves up delicious roast meal rolls, fresh salads, breakfast and great coffee. SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET FOOD HALL - STALL S13 instagram: properandson
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BENJAMIN’S KITCHEN OPENED: December 23, 2014 Alphington is serving up something truly special in the form of the newly opened, Benjamin’s Kitchen. Despite having only been open a month, they can already boast Urbanspoon reviews along the lines of: “I can’t go to Victoria Street again. This would have to be the best Thai I’ve had in years.” If that’s not enough to get you through the door, then let it be The Old Man and the Sea inspired decor. Soothing and refreshing greys and whites coat the walls and suspended clouds add light and an overall sense of calm. Serving dishes sized to share, Benjamin’s Kitchen is open Tuesday - Sunday 10.30am 3.30pm and 5.30pm - 10.30pm 758 HEIDELBERG ROAD ALPHINGTON facebook.com.au/pages/benjamins-kitchen
AROUND THE TRAPS
FONDA OPENS IN HAWTHORN
MÖRK IS ON THE MOVE
MICE 2015
Fonda Mexican unveiled their fourth venue in
We first met Kiril and Josefin, the masterminds behind Mörk Chocolate, at the Melbourne International Coffee Expo in 2014. Having been on the cafe scene since 2012, their presence at the expo was simply incredible. With a line of people six to ten deep for the entire four days of MICE14, watching these two in action (our booth was located directly opposite) was something to behold, and we knew that team Mörk were ones to watch. It seems, we were correct.
The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is on again in 2015, but Santa has come early...and so has the expo. To ensure this years’ expo aligned with the World Barista Championship (taking place in Seattle, Washington from 9 - 12 April), MICE15 will grace Melbourne’s Showgrounds from March 13 - 15.
playing host to the ever popular Mexican fare.
Since MICE14 Kiril and Josefin have cemented themselves as regulars on the Melbourne cafe scene, serving up arguably the best hot chocolate around. Following on from an impressive 2014 which included collaborations with Rooftop Honey and Mountain Goat Beer, these two are setting up shop in North Melbourne.
As a result of exhibitor feedback, MICE Show Director Clint Hendry has also announced the 2015 expo will run for three days. The show will still operate with two trade days and the final day open to the public. The expo will play host in 2015 to the ASCA National Coffee Championships, the MICE2015 Cocktail Party, Let’s Talk Coffee Australia, the RASV’s Australian International Coffee Awards and is this year an official event of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.
Building is underway for Mörk’s first (yes we’re getting in early to say they’ll be more!) concept store. The Mörk shop and Chocolate Brew Bar is set to launch in late February.
MICE is the ‘can’t miss’ event for industry folk and coffee lovers alike. Pre-purchase tickets for both trade and public are now available online.
morkchocolate.com.au
internationalcoffeeexpo.com
January, with Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn now 653 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn fondamexican.com.au ESTELLE IS EVOLVING Estelle is evolving, and in early 2015, will become Estelle Bistro and Estelle by Scott Pickett, two new and innovative dining concepts, situated side by side. Estelle Bistro opens February 4, with Estelle by Scott Pickett (ESP) due to open March. estellebarkitchen.com.au VICTORIAN COFFEE CHAMPIONSHIPS The Australian Speciality Coffee Association (ASCA) Victoria Coffee Championships will take place February 7 – 8 at Griffiths Coffee, 10 – 11 Rosemary Court in Mulgrave. aasca.com
BLUEBONNET BBQ RETURNS Bluebonnet BBQ is back in business after thoughtless thieves broke in and trashed the venue late in 2014. A successful Pozible campaign saw them back on their feet in mere months. bluebonnetbbq.com.au
MELBOURNE YOUNG GUNS NAMED AS FINALISTS With over 3000 entries world wide, these four stars in the making have a reason to smile. Hajime Horiguchi (Sushi Minamishima), Kay-Lene Tan (The European), Peter Gunn (Attica) and Punit Fernandes (Mesh) represented Melbourne in the best way possible, being named inthe top ten for the Pacific region in the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 awards, On Monday, February 16, the Pacific finalists will produce their signature dishes in a local cook off to be held at Crown Resorts Melbourne. Leading Australian chefs, Jacques Reymond, Guy Grossi, Peter Doyle, Peter Gilmore, and Giovani Pilu will judge the young hopefuls and announce the finalist who will represent the Pacific region and join the best international young chefs at Expo Milano.
A GRAM CORRECTION GRAM Magazine wishes to publish a retraction in relation to an article published in edition 46. Published within the edition, was an interview with Mark Dorrell, Chief Judge of Gault&Millau. GRAM published comments made by Dorrell in relation to The Age Good Food Guide which proved untrue. GRAM Magazine apologies for this error.
finedininglovers.com
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EATING OUT SOUTH YARRA
A25 PIZZERIA 720 Chapel St, South Yarra Ph: (03) 9826 2233
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY HAYNES AND BRUCE
In the farther reaches at the South Yarra end of Chapel Street, where Hello
cherry tomatoes. For dessert, a beautiful blueberry and rosewater panna
Sam and Burch & Purchese call home, a new food outlet has just claimed
cotta with Persian fairy floss. If you’re feeling a tad celebratory, wash it all
its place in the shopping precinct – A25 Pizzeria.
down with a delicious prosecco spritzer.
A25 boasts a sexy take on Italian kitsch in its fit-out, including pink neon
Best of all in these trying financial times (because when are they not?),
light installations, images of Sofia Loren and audio of a former Italian
there is nothing over $16 on the menu.
president and his mistress cheekily rolling in the background when you visit the bathroom.
A25 boasts simplicity, quality ingredients, a solid wine list and some great cocktails boasting an Italian flavour. With everything served to you with
Similar to its sister restaurant Non Solo Pasta, which is popular with the
that playful Italian charm, it’s definitely worth a trip southside.
corporate lunch crowd in Docklands, A25’s mission is simple – serve good-quality, uncomplicated Italian food at a good price. There are five
A25 PIZZERIA
“red” pizzas, five “white” pizzas and five “crazy” pizzas on offer, along
720 Chapel Street, South Yarra
with some delicious pastas, snacks and desserts to boot. “We’re keeping
03 9826 2233
it simple and authentic Italian. You’ve got to have your classics, but we’re
eat@a2.com.au
also trying new things, too,” owner Remo Nicolini says. a25.com.au Some real standouts are the squid ink pizza with prawns, calamari,
facebook.com/a25pizzeria
pecorino and oven-roasted tomatoes, the “A25” with asparagus cream,
instagram.com/a25pizzeria
zucchini and ricotta, the rolled eggplant parmigiana with fregola and
Live Music Food & Win e Art & Fashion
southmelbourne nightmarket .com.au
Thursdays from 5.30pm
Until 5 March Coventry & Cecil Streets FREE ROOFTOP PARKING
AN INTERVIEW YOTAM OTTOLENGHI
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YOTAM I H G N E L OTTO WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY IRON CHEF SHELLIE
As part of Good Food Month, highly respected chef, Yotam Ottolenghi was in town. Promoting his new book, and attending a series of events, Iron Chef Shellie was lucky enough to score a quick interview with the main man. You’ve been in Australia for a little bit now, you’ve been nonstop, have you had a chance to actually relax and discover any cool hot spots? Yesterday I went to a few nice places: I went to Supernormal, and had a beautiful… what did I have there that really blew me away? They had pork rolls that were really delicious and then I went to a cute place called Nora, it’s completely new. They do these really funky tarts. I had a pumpkin one, with a black crust, they make using charcoal. You need to go, they are really lovely and they mill their own flour in the back, that was a little find. And where else, I went to Pei Modern last night, it’s not a find, but I had a great food, it was delicious. The asparagus with smoked eggs, oh it was to die for. Heston’s bringing Fat Duck to Melbourne, would you follow in his footsteps and bring Ottolenghi or Nopi to Melbourne or Sydney? I don’t know, maybe. I’ve changed my tune over the last week. I started off by saying no way it’s never going to happen and now, at day six or seven, I’m thinking maybe, it’s quite nice here, so we’ll see. So far I’ve been saying no, it’s too difficult, it’s too complicated, it’s not for me. But there’s a maybe there, so we will win you over in a bit. At the moment, I’m slightly less extreme no, but we are still not sure about it.
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Millions of people look up to you, have your cookbooks and are inspired
in our imagination, but once you open yourself up to the world, there’s
by you, is there is a chef or cook that you admire and look up to?
tonnes of stuff you can do. I really think that even the butch Australian man
There’s a lot. Cooks like my father and my mum, both are great cooks.
can be kind of swayed a little bit if you present them vegetables.
I’m inspired by people I meet when travelling, home cooks, and Sami my business partner, I think he’s a genius. We co-wrote books together, and
What’s the sexiest vegetable to you?
he’s been a huge inspiration for me. He throws a meal like nobody else
At the moment, (because tomorrow I’ll have a different answer), cauliflower.
does, he cooks much better than I do. What do you think the key to your success has been? Is there any one Australians love meat and you’re known as the king of vegetables. A lot
person or a certain action?
of men especially don’t consider a meal completely without a protein or
I think I’ve been very lucky to have talented people around me. Although
a meat. Do you have any words of wisdom to try and change this attitude
‘Ottolenghi ‘is famous, I am the face and there is a lot of creative stuff that
in Australia?
is not mine. Sami’s influence for one. Scully, the head chef, who is actually
I don’t like to try and change attitudes, that’s not my mission. I like to
here in the kitchen, he is amazing. We are co-writing a book together and
present the food as it is, and if people choose to adopt it.
he is actually from Sydney. I also have an friend called Helen, she’s an amazing baker, she also produces a lot of our recipes, so it’s a collaboration.
Not everyone can cook like you! Is there any tips that you can give people? Not everybody can cook like me, but they can cook really well, if they are given good ideas with what to do with vegetables. I think we are limited
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Who was your greatest inspiration when it came to food? I have been inspired a lot by the cooks of California; Alice Waters, Debra Madison; all these people who are vegetable focused but they also have this integrity with the vegetable, unlike some French cooks. You know, the kind of cook who shi* out out of their food! Sorry, excuse my language! Those are the people that inspire me. What would your ultimate feast involve? My ultimate feast… would involve lots and lots of things. I like a lot on the table, like a huge mezze selection, that would be a feast. Not one thing that’s for sure, or two, or three. ottolenghi.co.uk
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EATING OUT SOUTH MELBOURNE
JALAPEﾃ前 BUSINESS BURGER
MAPLE BACON CANUCK
JALAPEﾃ前 BUSINESS BURGER
DEATH BY CHOCOLATE
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TRIPLE JERK
CAFE 51 51 Buckhurst Street, South Melbourne. Ph: (03) 9699 7853
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BURGERS OF MELBOURNE
28 weeks ago (July 2014), I started my burger conquest. So far I have
The second burger was the Death by Chocolate: Bacon, cheese, beef
eaten just over 80 burgers, and I have to say, I have loved every minute
patty, chocolate sauce, BBQ sauce and popping candy in a sandwich of
of it. Over this time, my consumption averages out to be roughly three
waffles for $7.00
burgers per week, which seems to be the magic number to maintain my weight and not put on the kilos despite eating double, triple and quadruple
I really didn’t know what to expect with this one, as I have never even
patty burgers when the opportunity arises. The ever growing Burgers of
thought of this combination, but WOW! It has to be tasted to be believed.
Melbourne list is never ending, every café, every restaurant and every
If you are heading down to Cafe 51, order this for dessert and share it if you
pub is serving a burger as well as new the popup burger joints that are
cannot eat it on your own, you won’t regret it!
appearing every month. This is making it a tough gig getting around to them all, but someone has to do it!
After two successful visits, on my third visit I decided to triple it up and tried one of the new burgers on the menu, the Triple Jerk: Three beef
I found Cafe 51 by accident, but I am so glad I did, as this place is ridiculously
patties, three slices of American cheddar, three rashes of crispy bacon,
good value and their burgers are nothing like you will get anywhere else
grilled onions, mushrooms, lettuce, tomato and homemade jerk sauce for
in Melbourne.
$9.00.
The first burger I tried was the Jalapeño Business Burger: Two beef patties,
Having had my share of burgers over the last seven months, I’ve
two slices of American Cheddar, jalapeños, mild salsa, bacon, lettuce, red
experienced awesome, average and not so good burgers. The burgers
onions and corn chips on a brioche bun. It came with a side of chips and a
served at Café51 confidently sit in the awesome category. Three visits, and
drink and was only $12.00! The burger deal is usually $10.00, but with the
three very successful tastings. With the majority of their burgers being
additional patty at only $2.00, I couldn’t resist adding it.
$7.00 and the most expensive burger on the menu being $9.00, these are by far the best value burgers Melbourne has to offer and are sitting in my
Being a burger that made it straight into my top 10 list, I had to invite
top 10 most tastiest too!
another burger blogger along to try Café51 to see if their opinion was consistent with mine. Just like I thought, they also rated this hidden café ,
Their hours are also a plus - open 6:00am – 3:00pm Monday – Friday and
set amongst the industrial part of South Melbourne, just as highly.
from February 2015 extending their hours to include Saturday’s from 11am - 3pm to capitalise on the weekend burger rush. They have also said if
My second visit to Cafe 51 I thought I would be adventurous and order two
you mention ‘Burgers of Melbourne’, you will receive a free serve of chips
burgers in the one sitting.
with every burger order made, a good incentive to make your way down for a cheap and tasty eat.
The first burger was the Maple Bacon Canuck: Two beef patties, two slices of American Cheddar, two rashes of crispy bacon, pickles, BBQ sauce,
CAFE 51
mustard and aoli. All for only $7.00.
51 Buckhurst Street, South Melbourne 03 9699 7853
Juicy and tasty, this burger was dripping with flavour. The mixture of sauces was perfect while the sauce to meat to bread ratio was spot on.
cafe51.com.au
They even supplied a wet wipe, which came in handy, as being so juicy, a
facebook.com/cafefiftyone
little bit of a mess was made. That is really the only criticism I have, but can a burger really be too juicy?
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EATING OUT MELBOURNE
SLATER ST BENCH 8/431 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne. Ph: 0488 331 669
WORDS ADVANCED FOOD FALCONRY PHOTOGRAPHY NOEL SMYTH
Slater St. Bench has poached a number of quality baristas in the last few months. They are the German football team of the cafe world. I’ve seen some of the staff before, although I had to look up their names, Frank, Pat, Jared and Josh. Opening up on the corner of St. Kilda Rd and Slater Street, it’s a coffee stop for businessman taking a break from doing business. Directly opposite and in fact everywhere around are rows and rows of offices, and just behind on Slater Street there is a park. So if you were a businessman that went for walks and coffee then it just keeps getting better. I got there at about 9 on a Friday (on weekends they rest) and it was relatively busy. They’ve clearly catered for corporation CEO’s, because the inside is somewhat clinical. Everything is logical and clean. If Ron Dennis were here, he would slate (yep) them for the dust on the newspaper rack. I should imagine everyone that comes here in the morning is called Ron Dennis, wearing bluetooth ear pieces. But yes, there is a bench, then there is a coffee bar for sitting, and one for standing as well. And that’s about it. It’s all very clean and minimalist, so bauhaus. Considering the size, this is a good thing, because any more decorations would create clutter in such a small space. It’s a high-quality coffee bar that aims to be a modernist. So look beyond the perfect geometric shapes towards the impressive Mahlkonig grinder, beautiful La Marzocco with custom bronze plating, and a few other Mazzer grinders for when perfection isn’t quite enough. Walter Gropius would be proud. Nowhere else in close proximity takes coffee as seriously. Considering Slater does filter, it was always going to be considered one of the best. The turnover rate is quite high, catering primarily for takeaways or a quickie in your ten minutes of R’n’R. There is an air of urgency in everyone, you could take out a laptop if you wanted to get a little work done, but there are other places for lounging around.
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Because Jared is involved in the running of Clement Coffee, they use a variety of single origin and blends from them. The froth on the first coffee I had was dense, so that was disappointing. Actually no, that’s the wrong word. I’m never disappointed, that emotion is reserved for people who don’t think ahead. For a Ron Dennis who marries a blonde 22 year old stick and comes home to find her in bed with the postman. He’s disappointed in her. He’s also disappointed when his business goes under. But he did a deal with an Irishman. What can you expect? Since disappointment is for the ignorant, I was nonchalant when I had to endure a slightly unpleasant start to what would become a taste that had some fruity notes, mainly citrus (clementine anyone?) I was told this was the pony blend. Whatever that means. It was good. The second was I think done by someone else, the froth was silkier and I noticed a crisper finish as well. There wasn’t any lasting coffee taste, it was like I’d had a small sip of water after. Or brushed my teeth. They have a selection of pastries and cakes as well but with my allergies I’m never brave enough to try them. Especially because I never remember my Epipen. So the space is fresh, as is the coffee. And because a lack of caffeine means you are weak in the head, I wouldn’t trust any executive decisions made by a board that hadn’t consumed a healthy amount of the bean nectar. So we shall soon see a year on year increase in productivity, followed by a jump in top line revenue and trading on quadruple digit multiples to create a business model that is cash flow positive. Frankie and Co have made a sound investment. SLATER ST BENCH 8/431 St Kilda Road, Melbourne 0488 331 669 slaterstbench.com.au facebook.com/slaterstbench 17
THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE
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EMERALD HILL DELI SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET It is no fluke that Emerald Hill Deli recently won Best Deli in the MYOB Melbourne Market Awards. Owner Maria Totos, who was born and raised in the Greek island of Evia, has been at the helm of this gourmet gem for over 30 years. “From a tough background, I’m just so appreciative of everything. When I was nine years old, I was given a lamb, so I looked after it and then sold it to buy a calf. Then I raised the calf and sold it to help my family.” Her love of family and cooking, combined with hard work and sheer determination has seen her business thrive. From a beautifully curated cheese room, to arguably the best range of macarons in Melbourne, Emerald Hill Deli is well worth visiting next time you’re at the Market. Stall 23. SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
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Their designs are practical yet beautiful, focussing on how you use your space, and what you hope to get out of your garden. Wherever possible Pure Food Gardens use reclaimed or recycled construction materials. They know all about what growns where, and who needs what, from native gardens, green screening, small orchards, perennial food plants to organic veggie patches. Whether your garden needs a total make over, a new addition or some professional advice and love, Pure Food Gardens want to help you get the most out of your outdoor space, but turning it into a beautiful and giving oasis. A place where you van grow your own food, and enjoy your bounty. PUREFOODGARDENS.COM Daniel McKeag 0432 982 782 purefoodgardens@gmail.com
HOSPITALITY, CATERING & RESTAURANT SUPPLIES SINCE 1947
FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL 2015 Grab your best tweed and join Fowles Wine to hunt down the finest flavours at their 2015 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival event on Saturday 28 February. This year Fowles Wine, the winery behind Ladies who Shoot their Lunch wines, will be stepping back in time to re-create the feel and flavours of a traditional ‘hunt feast’ with their regional food producing friends. With retro garden games, food demonstrations and prizes for the best dressed, they’ll be featuring the produce from their local lamb, beef and goat farmers, olive oil producer, mushroom farmer and ice-cream maker in delicious old school dishes matched to Fowles Wine. After lunch, auctioneer supremos the Fowles family will be wielding the hammer on great prizes to raise funds for neuroendocrine cancer charity The Unicorn Foundation. So dust off your best vintage tweed and join Fowles Wine for a wild journey from Farm to Table...Are you Game? Date and time: Saturday 28 February. 12:30pm - 4:30pm. Location: Fowles Wine Cellar Door, 1175 Lambing Gully Rd, Avenel, 3664. Tickets cost: $105 inclusive of all food and wine. *Public transport to event will be available. Details will be released closer to the date of the event on Fowles Wine website and Facebook page. For more information please contact the Cellar Door. For bookings and info please contact the Cellar Door: (03) 5796 2150 or cellardoor@fowleswine.com
HOTEL AGENCIES IS A LEADING IMPORTER AND SUPPLIER OF CROCKERY, FOODSERVICE EQUIPMENT, GLASSWARE, CHEFWARE, DINNERWARE, SERVINGWARE AND CLEANING PRODUCTS TO THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY. OUR FAMOUS BRANDS INCLUDE DUDSON,
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Contact Us T 03 9411 8888 F 03 9411 8847 customerservice@hotelagencies.com.au Find us on
19
THE GRAM GUIDE CHEESE
1. 2. 8. 3.
THE GRAM GUIDE
Cheese
7.
4.
The Eight Types You Need To Know
6. 5. 20
1
1. Fresh Cheese
2. Mild Semi-Soft Cheese
3. Soft Ripened Cheese
USED to describe cheeses that have not been aged,
THESE cheeses have a smooth, generally, creamy
WITH a creamy, oozy texture and a velvety white rind,
or are very slightly cured. These cheeses have a high
interior with little or no rind. Generally high in moisture
soft white cheeses are a favourite on all Australian
moisture content and are usually mild and have a very
content and range from very mild in flavour to very
cheese platters. Will vary from really mild and buttery,
creamy taste and soft texture.
pungent.
to rich and savoury.
STYLES: Bocconcini, Chèvre, Cottage Cheese, Feta
STYLES:
(some), Fromage Blanc, Mascarpone, Quark, Ricotta.
American Muenster, Mozzerella, Haloumi
Cream Brie
ABOUT: Given their high moisture content and shorter
ABOUT: Semi-soft cheeses may be made from both
ABOUT: White mould cheeses age from the exterior
shelf life, fresh cheeses have little time to develop any
pasteurised and raw milk, depending on the aging
to the interior which contributes to the maturation and
distinctive taste and are delicate and milky in flavour.
requirements and the style the cheesemaker is creating.
character of the cheese. Once the white mould has fully
Their mild flavour ensures they are extremely versitile
They contain between 62% and 67% moisture and have
grown on the cheese, it must be wrapped in a special
when used in cooking and can balance bold flavour or
pliable textures and retain their fresh milk flavors. When
cheese paper, a crucial stage of the ripening process.
compliment subtle flavours, without overpowering.
aging, the cheese can be washed in brine with red
When the rind of the cheese ages, the surface will start
smear (with or without alcohol).
to break down, changing from its pristine white colour
SERVE: When not used in cooking, serve as antipasto
Brick,
Butter
Käse,
Havarti,
Limburger,
STYLES: Camembert, Brie, Double Brie and Triple
to off-white tinged with orange at times.
style platter with cured meats, olives, olive oil and
SERVE: Some varieties such as haloumi stand up well to
crusty breads.
frying or grilling and served with lemon. Often used in
SERVE: Remove cheese from fridge at least an hour
foundue, when served alone use rye bread and pickled
before service for the best flavour development. Stone
onions.
fruits, sweet fruit chutneys, cherries and dates and
PAIR WITH: WINE - Sparkling wine, aromatic whites (Riesling, Sauvingnon Blanc, Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio)
crusty breads pair nicely with these cheeses.
or Rose. For some of the sharper soft cheeses such as
PAIR WITH: WINE - Fruity wines such as Riesling,
feta, you can get away with a medium bodied red such
Chenin Blanc, Rosé, Chardonnay or White Zinfandel. If
PAIR WITH: WINE - Pair triple creams with Champagne.
as Pinot Noir or Grenache. BEER - Wheat beers such as
you prefer red, try Pino Noir or Chianti. BEER - Pilsners
The bubbles and acidity of the wine off-set the
a Bavarian Hefeweizen or pale ales (or saison). OTHER -
or wheat beers.
richness and saltiness in this style of cheese. For Brie
White port, fino sherry or crisp cider.
MUST TRY: Main Ridge Dairy (VIC) - Halloumi Shaw
MUST TRY: Yarra Valley Dairy (VIC) - Ashed Pyramid
River (VIC) - Buffalo Mozzarella - Paesanella Cheese
and Persian Feta Grandvewe Cheese (TAS) - Cannonball
(NSW) - Smoked Fiore di Latte
Meredith Diary (VIC) - Chevre Ash and Goat in Extra Virgin Olive Oil Montefiore (VIC) - Ricotta That’s Amore Cheese - Fior Di Latte
Note: The depth and breath of cheese in this category means cheese are best paired on an individual bases.
or Camembert, a not–too–oaky Chardonnay is a good match as is an earthy Pinot Noir. BEER - Pilsner, wheat beers and Hefewizen. OTHER - Tart apple or pear ciders and also espresso coffee. MUST TRY: Milawa Cheese Company (VIC) - Brie King Island Dairy Seal Bay (TAS) - Triple Cream Brie Will Studd (TAS) - Le Conquerant Camembert Yarra Valley Dairy (VIC) - Yering
TOP Cheese TIPS Cooking with Cheese
Buy Fresh Buy Direct
Check the Labels
Label Cheeses
Fresh cheeses are a fantastic addition to
When buying cheese, it’s best to find a
Especially true for fresh cheeses, ensure the
For dinner parties or group settings, label
many dishes, but are best added at the very
reliable source, such as a speciality market,
product is still within it’s expiration date.
cheeses to allow guests to know what they’re
end of the cooking process to avoid the
cheese shop, deli or gourmet foods store
Different cheeses have different shelf life and
getting, and what accompaniment to choose.
cheese separating. When crumbled cheese
that specialises in cheeses. Markets are also a
this can vary once again once the cheese has
into a hot dish, toss the cheese into the
fantastic source of quality cheeses and most
been opened. “Reduced for Quick Sale” is
Serve Cheese at Room Temperature
hot food just before you serve it (and not a
cheesemakers have websites through which
reduced for a reason.
The cold temperature hinders the natural
second sooner, or it’ll settle to the bottom of
they either sell their cheese, or list their
the dish and harden there like concrete).
stockists.
flavours and fragrance of the cheese. Plan Pimp Your Cheese Board
ahead by taking your cheese out of the fridge
A wonderful cheese can almost always
at least an hour before serving.
You’ll Need More Than One Cheese Knife
Space Your Cheese Properly
hold it’s own without accompaniments, but
Fancy sampling a fresh goats cheese that
There is no reason to try and fit as many
when you find the correct pairing you can
Have Fun With It
tastes like blue Stilton with a hint of cheddar?
different cheeses as you possibly can on your
amplify the entire experience. Think about
Take pairing advice with a grain of salt.
No? Didn’t think so. One knife for every
board, flavours are compromised and cutting
bread verses crackers, sweet verses acidic
Cheese is designed to be enjoyed, be creative
portion of cheese is the standard. Bonus
the cheese becomes a nightmare. Four is
accompaniments. Markets and deli’s are a
and don’t be afraid to stray from the norm.
points if you have a hard and soft cheese
probably the ceiling, Instead, try serving two
great place to find delicious and fresh cheese
If you want to try Cheddar, jerky and Scotch,
knife, plus a plane.
smaller cheese plates.
accompaniments.
you go right ahead and try it!
21
1
4. Natural Rind Cheese
5. Semi-Hard Cheeses
6. Hard Cheese
INCLUDES those cheeses that have a wrinkly rind,
SEMI-HARD cheeses usually become crumblier and
OFTEN used for grating, hard cheeses are equally at
such as many French, American and Italian goat
more pungent as they age, but while young they are
home on a cheese board and are usually saltier than
cheeses, or whose rinds are thin and barely contain the
firm and flavourful. They tend to be on the drier side
their softer counterparts. Often crumbly their flavour
runny cheese within.
and melt easily for cooking applications.
ranges from strong and bitey to milder tones.
STYLES: Crottin de Chavignol, Vermont Creamery’s
STYLES: Baby Swiss, Blue (some), Colby (some),
STYLES: Aged Gouda, Aged Cheddar, Parmesan,
Bijou, Italian robiola.
Cheddar (most), Raclette, Fontina, Gouda (some),
Manchego, Pecorino, Parmigiano-Reggiano
ABOUT: Nearly always goat, these cheeses are chalky
Gruyère, Swiss, Colby, Leicester
ABOUT: The longer certain cheeses are aged, the
and moist when young with a lemony fresh tang.
ABOUT: These cheeses tend to be firmer, sometimes a
more they develop a sweet or caramel-like note. This
Gradually they develop a delicate bluish grey mould
little crumbly, and usually good melting cheeses. These
is especially true of gouda. In contrast to caramel,
and dry out, producing a wrinkled rind (depending on
cheeses typically have a nice balance of earthiness, a
Parmigiano-Reggiano has an unmistakable pineapple-
type of mould used) which becomes more pronounced
little sweetness, a good but not overwhelming amount
like aroma, especially when a wheel is fresh-cut. Hard
with age and the flavour is more nutty with a more
of salt, and sometimes buttery and nutty flavours too.
cheese may be pungent because of an enzyme that is
distinct goaty taste.
SERVE: Fantastic for fondue, on their own these cheese
sometimes added during the cheesemaking process or
SERVE: Serve with biscuits and Italian mostarda
pair very well with pears, apples, chutney, almond,
because that enzyme develops naturally over time.
or fruit chutney. Apple or pear is also a good simple
pistachios, walnuts, smoked salmon and sausage. Also
SERVE: Excellent grated and served fresh on pastas,
accompaniment.
go well with mustards.
hard cheese pair well with aged balsamics and biscuits.
PAIR WITH: WINE - Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc or
PAIR WITH: WINE - Riesling or Gewurztraminer.
PAIR WITH: WINE Italian Chianti, Merlot, Pinot Noir.
Rose. Cabernet Franc or Pinot Noir from the the Loire
Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux and Merlot BEER Stout,
Aged white Burgundy, aged Champagne or Riesling.
Valley in France or a Barbera from the Piedmonte in Italy
Hefeweizen or Porter. OTHER: Port
BEER - English or American IPA or Porters OTHER -
BEER - Wheat beers such as a Bavarian Hefeweizen or
MUST TRY: Pyengana Dairy Company (TAS) - Cheddar
Tawny Port or Oloroso sherry.
pale ales. OTHER - White port, fino sherry or crisp cider.
Heidi Farm (VIC) - Raclette Alexandrina Cheese
MUST TRY: Prom Country Cheeses (VIC) - Prom Picnic
MUST TRY: Woodside Cheeses (SA) - Duet and Figaro
Company (SA) - Vintage Cheddar Milawa Cheese
Sheep Pecorino Floridia Cheese (VIC) - Pecorino La
Pecora Dairy (NSW) - Bloomy White Bruny Island
Company (VIC) - Milawa White Fromart (QLD) - Swiss
Vera (SA) - Parmesan Farmgate Cheeses (VIC) - Truffle
Cheese Co. (TAS) - Saint Boatshed Cheese (VIC)
Appenzell Mature Yarra Valley Dairy (VIC) - Bulls Eye
Pecorino
- Mountain Goat Yarra Valley Diary (VIC) - Vintage Savourine Holy Goat (VIC) - La Luna
22
directory
CHEESEMAKERS
VICTORIA
BERRY CREEK CHEESE berryscreekcheese.com BOATSHED CHEESE boatshedcheese.com FARMGATE CHEESES farmgatecheese.com.au FLORIDIA CHEESE floridiacheese.com.au HEIDI FARM
7. Blue Cheeses
8. Washed-Rind Cheeses
THE family of blue cheeses is a large one, with many
THE exterior rind of washed rind cheeses may vary from
subcategories and attributes. They can be crumbly
bright orange to brown, with flavour and aroma profiles
or creamy, possess a rind (which makes them more
that are quite pungent, yet the interior of these cheeses
pungent) or contain no rind, and be salty or sweet.
is most often semi-soft and, sometimes, very creamy.
STYLES: Gorgonzola, Roquefort, Stilton and Danish
STYLES: Taleggio, Alsatian Munster, Cowgirl Creamery
blue varieties
Red Hawk, Époisses, Fromi Brebirousse d’ Argental
ABOUT: The term “blue” is used to describe cheeses
ABOUT: Washed-rind is used to describe those cheeses
MILAWA CHEESE COMPANY
that have a distinctive blue/green veining, created
that are surface-ripened by washing the cheese
milawacheese.com.au
when the penicillium roqueforti mold, added during
throughout the ripening/aging process with brine,
the cheesemaking make process, is exposed to air. This
beer, wine, brandy, or a mixture of ingredients, which
mold provides a distinct flavour to the cheese, which
encourages the growth of bacteria. The soft, washed
ranges from fairly mild to assertive and pungent.
rind cheese has a rich and creamy texture with a slight
SERVE: Blue cheese is a fabulous addition to salads
elasticity in the cheese.
and work well as sauces. Serve on a cheese platter with
SERVE: Citrus marmalades and Melassa dei Fichi (fig
fruit breads, quince pastes or any other slightly sweet
compote)
accompaniments such as pears or figs. Drizzle honey
PAIR WITH: WINE - Champagne, Gewürztraminer,
heidifarm.com.au HOLY GOAT CHEESE holygoatcheese.com JINDI CHEESE jindi.com.au MAIN RIDGE DAIRY mainridgedairy.com.au
over strong blues.
Riesling, Sauternes, red Burgundy or Pinot Noir BEER
PAIR WITH: WINE - Champagne, Chardonnay or
- Strong dark, Belgian style ales OTHER - Sweet ciders
Moscato. Zinfandel, Merlot or Marsala. BEER - Stout or
or cider brandy.
IPA. OTHER - Port
CHEESE TO TRY: Jindi Cheese (VIC) - Jindi Reserve
CHEESE TO TRY: Jindi Cheese (VIC) - Old Telegraph
Washed Rind Small Cow Farm (NSW) - Redella Will
Road Heritage Blue Red Hill Cheese (VIC) - Mountain
Studd (TAS) - Le Conquerant Demi Pont L’eveque
Goat Blue Berry Creek Cheese (VIC) - Tarwin Blue and
Bruny Island Cheese Co. (TAS) - 1792 and Oen
Rowefords Blue
MEREDITH DAIRY meredithdairy.com
MONTEFIORE CHEESE montefiore.com.au PROM COUNTRY CHEESES promcountrycheese.com.au RED HILL CHEESE redhillcheese.com.au SHAW RIVER shawriver.com.au THAT’S AMORE CHEESE thatsamorecheese.com.au YARRA VALLEY DAIRY www.yvd.com.au
VISIT WWW.GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU/ CHEESEGUIDE FOR THE FULL DIRECTORY LISTING
24
EATING OUT BENDIGO
WINE BANK ON VIEW 45 View Street, Bendigo. Ph: (03) 5444 4655
WORDS TIM BAXTER PHOTOGRAPHY AMANDA MALONE
In 2003 my wife and I were faced with a tremendous opportunity. The
I don’t use the word “iconic” lightly, in fact I use it rarely and only for places
National Trust had approached us about buying and renovating an
that have put in the hard yards to warrant it. Due to consumer’s fickle
extraordinary old bank building in View Street, Bendigo, which was built in
wants and constantly changing trends, hospitality is clearly one of the
1876. Architecturally it was stunning, the price was rock bottom, but it was
very hardest industries to achieve any longevity or notoriety. Pellegrini’s
in a serious state of decay. On top of this, the National Trust had placed
Espresso Bar in Bourke Street has been consistently punching it out since
one of the highest protection orders at their disposal on the building,
the halcyon days of the 1960s; Café Di Stasio in St Kilda has been at the
meaning renovation must strictly adhere to restoring its original form in
forefront of quintessential Italian for 25 years. After 20 years, Punch Lane
all its 19th century glory, which would ensure a very costly renovation,
in Little Bourke Street is ever reliable, and not long after I first started
as well, of course, minimum potential commercial uses. We thought long
working in Melbourne in 1993, a unique little “hole-in-the-wall” bar opened
and hard and decided that this was above and beyond our abilities and
up in a tiny laneway, just 30 meters away from where I worked. It was
interests at the time. We declined and continued on our merry way living
simply known as “Meyers Place Bar” – at least that’s what we called it, as
our Melbourne life.
there was no signage or branding of any kind. We must have spent every Friday night there for five years (well, we were in our 20s!). Little did I
I personally think one of the most fortunate things to ever happen to
know at the time, that it was the first of many tiny bars to spring up in the
the people of Bendigo was that Mark Coffey and his wife Janine then
emerging stylistic and previously under utilised Melbourne laneways. Its
expressed interest in the building. Mark is an accomplished Master Builder
simplicity started a massive bar revolution (still evolving to this day) and
and a highly passionate wine drinker. With the go-ahead from the National
it is justifiably on my list of “iconic” hospitality venues.
Trust Mark, using his building nous and contacts undertook a complete restoration of the site and created the iconic wine oasis we now know as
Ladro is my family’s favourite pizza restaurant and it recently celebrated
Wine Bank on View.
10 years and Attica, perhaps now Melbourne’s most famous restaurant is about to turn 10 also. It’s vibrantly clear Melbourne has its fair share of
As the surrounding photo’s illustrate, The Coffey’s created a stunning
places that can justifiably be considered “iconic”. And whilst each and
showpiece in Bendigo’s town centre, with a brilliant wine bar including
every one mentioned here (as well as many others) has a place in not only
relaxed couches, tasty bar snacks, open fireplace, alfresco areas on the
my heart but obviously many others as well, as they are all still thriving.
town’s finest strip (View Street), a retail outlet for fine wine, as well as gorgeous boutique accommodation out the back.
THE SCIENCE & THE MAGIC www.chefshat.com.au 25
I can’t help think though, that having a population approaching four and
Mark explained that locals simply couldn’t get their heads around tapas
a half million people at your disposal, as well as very generous tourism
or just catching up for a few glasses of wine (this was really only done
from all over the world is a great tool to have when you wish to ply your
at pubs back then). The best he could hope for in those early days was
dynamic, cosmopolitan and eccentric stylings to all and sundry. Building
getting a few locals dropping in for a glass or two of wine before or after
something equally special in a small country town, like Bendigo with
they went out and had a traditional three course meal elsewhere.
less than a fortieth of Melbourne’s population and very minimal tourism, then it’s a vastly different story – the dichotomy between Bendigo and
Thanks to (another iconic restaurant) MoVida in Melbourne for virtually
Melbourne hospitality a decade ago cannot be overstated.
changing the dining format for all (hello small plates), it wasn’t long before everyone started looking for tapas and wine bars and eschewing more
Mark and Janine did something extraordinary with the making of The Wine
traditional restaurants. In fact I think many Generation Y foodies must
Bank. They overcame the greatest of all hurdles – changing generations of
assume all restaurants are designed to serve only shared small plate food
stagnant hospitality culture.
nowadays, such is the slavish and dedicated surge to follow the trendy popularity established by MoVida, Cumulus and many others a decade
In a town that was overrun with pub and café mediocrity and only a tiny
ago.
percentage of the population looking for “something different” it was always a risk for the Coffey’s to build something so grand and impressive,
I, for one, am thrilled Mark and Janine took the punt on Bendigo, for they
with an extremely pointed and professional direction toward their love of
have created an enduring and now clearly iconic venue in the heart of
wine. When the business first opened it had nearly 400 wines available
central Victoria.
to drink in or to take away That number has now climbed to well over a staggering 1000, and on top of that they now offer full al-la-carte meals,
Just before Christmas last month The Wine Bank celebrated its tenth
seven days a week.
birthday. It’s truly a remarkable achievement. Very few hospitality business’ last that long and fewer still continue to improve whilst forging a virtual
The business also acts as a cellar door (of sorts) for most of the local
hub of evolving wine culture – for which the citizens of Bendigo are the
wineries – many of which are tiny ventures and simply too small to be able
true beneficiaries. I’d suggest anyone who reads this should pop in and
to operate their own cellar door. Visitors to Bendigo, and locals alike, can
say hello to Mark, have a glass of wine, shake his hand, and say thank you.
go to The Wine Bank to get expert service and advice about the massive
I know I will be.
walls of local, Australian and international wines they have on sale. Simply put, The Wine Bank was the harbinger that carved the way for Whilst in Melbourne, in 2004, the concept of the “wine bar” was becoming
all modern and progressive hospitality businesses in Bendigo (for which
quite mainstream, (thank you Dog’s Bar and Walter’s Wine Bar) it was still
there are now many) that followed it.
years away from public acceptance in country towns; something Mark was honest enough to admit. Mark mentioned to me recently, that an entire
WINE BANK ON VIEW
month’s revenue in his first year of trade was roughly equivalent to that of
45 View Street, Bendigo
a decent Friday night nowadays. I know this to be true, as during the mid
03 5444 4655
2000s, my wife and I would regularly come back to Bendigo to visit her parents on weekends and often find ourselves the sole guests of this epic
winebankonview.com
bar at 7pm on a Saturday night!
facebook.com/winebankonview twitter.com/Wine_Bank45
26
GREAT LOCATION - GREAT VALUE MAGNOLIA SERVICED APARTMENTS IS PERFECTLY SUITED TO SHORT OR MEDIUM TERM STAYS. THIS SERVICED APARTMENT OFFERS GREAT VALUE WITH THE CONVENIENCE OF AN IDEAL CENTRAL LOCATION CLOSE TO THE HEART OF THE HISTORIC BENDIGO CBD. BENDIGO HEALTH CARE, PREMIER SPORTING FACILITIES - THE QUEEN ELIZABETH OVAL, TOM FLOOD SPORTS CENTRE AND AQUATIC CENTRES ARE ALL WITHIN EASY WALKING DISTANCE. SO TOO ARE THE BEAUTIFUL BOTANICAL GARDENS, BENDIGO ART GALLERY, HOTELS, CAFES, RESTAURANT AND SHOPPING FACILITIES. FOR LOCATION AND VALUE FOR YOUR GETAWAY TO BENDIGO, YOU CAN’T GO PAST MAGNOLIA ON VIEW.
FOR BOOKINGS CONTACT MATT & MAREE PH: 0438 005 400 MAGNOLIA@BBETECH.COM.AU 27
COOKING
VIETNAMESE VERMICELLI SALAD RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHY THE KIND COOK
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
2 x 100 gram packs of vermicelli rice noodles
Combine all the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl until they
1 large red capsicum, core removed, seeds out and very finely sliced
are well combined and set aside.
2 carrots, peeled and cut into matchsticks
Cover the noodles with boiling water and soak them till cooked. This
a handful of spring onion (also known as scallions), washed, cut in half,
takes approximately 10 minutes. Refresh them in cold water immediately
sliced into thin strips lengthwise 1 bunch of Vietnamese mint, washed and roughly chopped (just use normal mint if you can’t get Vietnamese. Good handful of basil, washed and gently torn (I didn’t really measure this as I just grabbed a handful from the garden)
and drain. Grab handfuls of the noodles and roughly chop at them with scissors. This just makes them combine a little easier with the salad ingredients and makes the salad easier to eat. Combine the noodles with the rest of the ingredients (except for the nuts).
1 cup of crushed, salted and roasted peanuts
Add the dressing to the noodles mixture and stir well to combine.
For the dressing
Serve garnished with the crushed peanuts.
2 limes, juiced ¼ cup rice wine vinegar
Yields: Serves enough for 4 or for 2 very hungry people
1 small red chilli, halved and finely sliced
Time: Takes me about 25 minutes to make.
2 lemongrass stems, finely sliced. (If you don’t have lemon grass stems use
Notes: You can serve this immediately or refrigerate (minus the peanuts,
a tablespoon of minced lemongrass. Do get fresh lemongrass if you can
until you serve it) and allow the flavours to develop even further. If you
though as it adds a nice crunch and is so fragrant)
do this though DON’T tear the basil or add the mint and basil until you
1 tablespoon of coconut sugar (alternatively use soft brown sugar) 5 kaffir lime leaves, roughly chopped
28
go to serve the salad or they will brown and bruise.
CHILLI, MINT AND BEAN SHOOT SALAD RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHY THE KIND COOK
This is a perfect salad for really hot days with your favourite iced cold beer or home made lemonade. Serve it as a side with homemade pizza or take as an offering to a BBQ. Just assemble it right before serving so that it is still super crunchy. INGREDIENTS For the salad
METHOD
1 small red onion, peeled and very finely sliced
Place all the salad ingredients into a large bowl.
2 cups of fresh bean shoots
Whisk all the dressing ingredients together and add to the bowl with the
2 red capsicum, core removed and thinly sliced
salad.
1 cup of fresh mint leaves, washed
Mix everything well to combine and serve immediately.
2 long red chillies, seeded and very finely sliced Yields: A side dish for 4. For the dressing
Time: 15 minutes.
2 tablespoons of vegetarian fish sauce
Notes: You can purchase vegetarian fish sauce from vegan grocery
½ tablespoon of minced ginger
stores, online and from some Asian grocers. Otherwise simply replace it
1 tablespoon of fresh lime juice
with two tablespoons of organic tamari or soy. This is also delicious with the addition of handful of Thai basil and/or thin strips of fresh coconut meat.
29
REVIEWS
FERAL HOP ABV: 5.8% STYLE: India Pale Ale SERVING TEMP: 6 degrees FOOD PAIRING: Triple cream cheese or BBQ pork ribs ORIGIN: Swan Valley, Western Australia PRICE (RRP): 330ml $8 | 4 x 330ml $18 BUY IT HERE: www.feralbrewing.com.au REVIEW AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
REVIEW AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
THICK AS THIEVES
Sometimes, rekindling the passion with an old
been voted the best beer in Australia according
Pinot Noir/Gamay 2014
flame is ok. I’m talking about your first beer crush
to the annual Local Taphouse’s Australia Day
Yarra/King Valley, Victoria
of course, a beer above all others that got your
Hottest 100 poll for 2012 and 2013. By the time
heart racing and licking your lips in anticipation
this issue goes to print, I suspect we may see a
of your next dalliance. But then new beers came
similar result for 2014.
RRP $28.99 Reflecting is something we tend to do at the end
out, tempting you to try something new. You
of the year. After the Christmas buildup we brace
take your eyes off the beer you know and love
Josh Hodges, Victoria’s Feral Sales Rep, has a
ourselves for a period in which to slow down and
and think that maybe there’s better ones out
theory about why Hop Hog has entrenched itself
ponder what has just been. In line with this, I thought
there.
into the hearts and minds of crafty Australians, “It’s all about balance. I’ve tried my fair share of
it might be a novel idea to end the year with a wine from the year just passed. Admittedly there are not
In reality, you may be right to think that. The
IPA’s and it’s almost like people are trying to ‘out-
too many reds out there just yet, but I am not one
Australian craft beer scene is constantly evolving
hop’ each other these days, paying no respect to
to give up so easily. Just a couple of weeks ago I ran
with breweries challenging their customers’
the other delightful ingredients in beer.”
into the handsome Syd from Thick As Thieves who
palates and each other with weird and wonderful
showed me this pretty offering made just in time
brews. But as much as things change, some
For the few that haven’t tried Hop Hog before,
for summer. The blend here is 60% Pinot Noir and
things stay the same. Over the Christmas break,
expect an amazing floral, piney aroma with a
40% Gamay fruit out of the Yarra and King Valleys
a mate offered me a Hop Hog and I instantly fell
nice level of bitterness thanks to the generous
of the almighty Victoria.
in love all over again.
American hop addition and smooth, slightly sweet malt character. Thankfully, Hop Hog is
boxes
Feral Hop Hog IPA is one of the best, if not THE
easily found on tap at good beer venues around
aromatically with notes of juniper, amaro herbs,
best, Australian produced India Pale Ale on the
Melbourne and regional Victoria and available at
guava and loganberry. I suppose it is a mixture of
market, becoming a permanent part of beer geek
almost every good bottle shop. Here’s cheers to
characters that I am not all that familiar with, but
culture featuring in Good Beer Week’s “Sh*t Beer
Brendan and the rest of his Feral’s over in WA!
it was intriguing nonetheless. The palate is gentle
Geeks Say” – “Hop Hog is AWESOME!” It has
I still love you.
This
reflection
wine
satisfied
all
the
in flavour with a continuation of herbs and earthy forest floor tones coming through. The Thick as Thieves labels are straightforward and simple. For the wine geeks out there, they also note the acidity, which in this case is interestingly high at 3.71pH. The effect in the mouth comes across as rounded in the mid-palate and then a late acid effect providing a tartness to the finish. It is balanced though, which is what we want. In fact this Pinot Noir/Gamay blend would make the perfect daytime tipple that you would imbibe while consuming summery things like barbecued prawns and pulled pork sandwiches. Happy summer for all. Stockist: King & Godfree, Carlton
30
@freepourart
@fongwi
@pinchysubs
APP-RECIATION EVERNOTE FOOD iTunes | Android | Free The Evernote Food iPhone app helps you record memorable meals and dishes up recipes and restaurant information, too. Paired with the excellent note-taking capabilities of the standard Evernote app, as well as Foursquare, this is a handy tool for any foodie.
AUSSIE FARMERS DIRECT iTunes | Free The Aussie Farmers Direct
STRADA COFFEE
app allows you to browse,
stradacoffee.com.au
shop and place orders for
enquries@stradacoffee.com.au
fresh Australian produce from your mobile device.
REVIEW AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG - DS IMAGES
The app saves you time
A new year, a new column, a new coffee, a new
The Maestro is a blend of five beans with origins of
cafe. Strada Coffee is the brainchild of Richard
Brazil, Cuba, Costa Rica, Colombia and Guatemala
Nardella, who has over 10 years experience in
and is a real crowd pleaser.
Melbourne’s coffee scene.
In a city that has embraced a lighter roasting style, Strada Coffee is medium roasted, celebrating
I went to Mio Locale in Fitzroy North to sample his
Richard’s
Italian
roots
yet
still
progressive,
Maestro Blend three ways - as a single espresso,
delicious to drink and very Melbourne.
double ristretto and a piccolo. It’s not often you find a coffee that works well both black and
Launched only in November, here are some places
white, but Richard has blended and roasted this
you can sample this fine brew.
perfectly to adapt to any situation and barista. The word I would use to describe it is ‘accessible’,
Mio Locale - 465 Brunswick St, Fitzroy North
not only for the maker but also for the drinker.
Thomson St Foodstore - 81 Thomas St, Northcote Little Byrd - 160 Union Road, Ascot Vale
As an espresso there’s a little brightness on the
Ritual - South Melbourne
front palate but very rich and smooth. The double
Solarino - 279 Little Collins St, Melbourne
ristretto brings out more of the punch, but no
Coffee n All - 1010 LaTrobe St, Docklands
bitterness. Add some milk you get chocolate,
St Zita’s - 1167 Glen Huntly Rd Glen Huntly
and helps support 100% Australian produce.
JAMIE OLIVER iTunes | Free Jammed packed with recipes, cooking tips, images and advice, the Jamie Oliver is a visually rich app that should be in any cooks phone. The layout of the app is clean and easy to follow and it is updated with new content on a daily basis.
nuttiness and a little tinge of marzipan.
CHEESEMATTERS iTunes | Free A handy little quick
ON INSTAGRAM THIS MONTH
reference guide to wine and cheese pairing. Featuring
Some of the best snaps we spied this month.
ten different cheese types and dozens of wine options, the app gives you options for pairing using a spinning wheel feature. Another plus of the app is that you can not only pair win with cheese but it works in reverse too, telling what cheese to try with each of the wines.
@peachwater
@sevenisyellow
@georgeats
31
OUT AND ABOUT SOUTH MELBOURNE NIGHT MARKET
ROYAL MELBOURNE CROQUET CLUB LAUNCH
32
Thursday nights have once again transformed in 2015, with the South Melbourne Night Market returning, bigger and better than ever. Catch live music, shopping events and fresh food every Thursday evening until March 5. Photography by: KristynaHess Photography
Birrarung Marr plays host to Melbourne’s Royal Croquet Club summer festival, running from Jan 16 - Feb 1. Boasting a huge line up of Melbourne’s best restaurants and food haunts such as D.O.C, Mr Claws, Meatmother, Miss Chu, St.Ali and Gelato Messina, Melburnians will get the opportunity to wine, dine and be entertained by Australia’s finest live acts.
THE DIARY Saturday, February 1
MELBOURNE BBQ FESTIVAL Queen Victoria Market
The Melbourne Barbecue Festival features a delicious fourday program of classes, competitions and entertainment that culminates in a free barbecue food festival at the Queen Victoria Market on Sunday February 1, 2015. The Barbecue Food Festival will showcase a selection of Melbourne’s best low and slow style barbecue food. Festival attendees will also be able to view, sample and purchase barbecue-related equipment and products from a range of exhibitors will be transformed into one big cultural feast, offering hawker-style food, pop-up stalls, entertainment and live music. melbournebbqfestival.com.au TWITTER: @ melbBBQ FACEBOOK: MelbourneBarbecueFestival
Feb 15 - March 5
SOUTH MELBOURNE NIGHT MARKET South Melbourne Market Crn Coventry and Cecil Streets, South Melbourne Saturday February 21
GREAT AUSTRALIAN BEER FESTIVAL - GEELONG Geelong Racecourse
Thursday nights will once again be celebrated as a dining and cultural event not to be missed, thanks to the South Melbourne Night Market returning on Thursday January 15.
More than 200 craft beers and cider brewers descend on Geelong for the annual GAB festival. Free seminars, live music, gourmet food trucks and the addition of the colourful cider garden are sure to draw crowds from near and far.
Now in its sixth year, the night market has become a well loved staple of Melbourne’s summer event calendar. From January 15 – March 5, Thursday evenings will be transformed into one big cultural feast, offering hawker-style food, pop-up stalls, entertainment and live music.
gabfgeelong.com.au TWITTER: @GABFGeelong
southmelbournemarket.com.au TWITTER: @SthMelbNightMkt
Tuesday February 24
CIRCA PRESENTS AARON TURNER
Sunday, February 15
Circa
BBQ THROWDOWN: NEW MARKET HOTEL VS KONG BBQ
For one night only, fêted chef Aaron Turner joins Circa’s Ashly Hicks for a five-course dinner with wines matched by Bannockburn Vineyards.
Newmarket Hotel, St Kilda
June 2014: Newmarket Hotel def. San Telmo 2-1 October 2014: Fancy Hank’s BBQ def. Newmarket Hotel 2-1 February 2015: YOU DECIDE!
Formerly of two-hatted Loam in regional Victoria, Turner now resides in the kitchen at acclaimed restaurant Husk Nashville, returning here and there to oversee his Melbourne venue, the deservedly hyped Belle’s Hot Chicken. Image: Ben Swinnerton, weeklytimesnow.com.au
Lunch (SOLD OUT) / Dinner (7pm SHARP)
$145 | 5 courses w. wines (03) 9536 1122 or dining@circa.com.au
$85 per session | Includes 6 dishes, James Squire beer + Mitchelton and Untapped Fine Wines. PH: (03) 9537 1777 FACEBOOK: newmarkethotelstkilda
Saturday, February 28
FARM TO TABLE EXPERIENCE WITH FOWLES WINE Fowles Winery, Cellar Door, 1175 Lambing Gully Rd, Avenel
This year, to celebrate their status as Victoria’s Best Tourism Winery for three years running, we’ll be hosting our legendary event at the place where all the magic happens...Our Cellar Door! The Wine Shed will transform into a rustic banqueting hall and step back in time to re-create the feel and flavours of a traditional hunt feast with regional food producing friends. With a dress theme of ‘a touch of tweed’, you’ll enjoy sparkling wine and canapés in the courtyard, live music, old school garden games, food demonstrations and prizes for the best dressed. Having worked up an appetite, we’ll sit down to a two course lunch featuring delicious retro dishes whose ingredients are sourced from local farmers and producers all served with award winning Fowles Wine. fowleswine.com.au Tickets cost: $105 inclusive of all food and wine.
33
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Basement @ 350 Latrobe
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Melbourne Town Hall
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Mr Tulk (State Library North)
Club Retro
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GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 47 FREE
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Il Locale Café Deco
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CEDAR HOSPITALITY 223 - 231 Brunswick Road Brunswick PHONE: 03 9387 4455 CEDARHOSPITALITY.COM.AU
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