GRAM Magazine ISSUE 60 // April 2016

GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU MELBOURNE ISSUE 60 FREE

PLEASE TAKE ME HOME

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CONTENTS EATING OUT UNCOMMON Jess Piper BURGER BUSINESS Burgers of Melbourne TENPIN KITCHEN Lisa Homen and Tim Grey

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FEATURE

COOKING

REGULARS

DANNY BOWIEN AND CHRIS YING

ABBACCHIO OF GOAT SHOULDER, PEPPERS AND SALTED RICOTTA Union Dining

CONTRIBUTORS

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NEWLY OPENED

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MISSION CHINESE Lauren Bruce and Pia Hambour

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RETURN OF THE MACK Moon Dog Craft Brewery

INTERNATIONAL QUEENSTOWN

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AROUND THE TRAPS

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THINGS WE LOVE

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REVIEWS

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OUT AND ABOUT

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THE DIARY

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GRAM DIRECTORY

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NEW ZEALAND Megan Osborne

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ON THE COVER: PUMPKINS A cultivar of a squash plant, most commonly of Cucurbita pepo, that is round, with smooth, slightly ribbed skin, and deep yellow to orange coloration. The thick shell contains the seeds and pulp. Some exceptionally large cultivars of squash with similar appearance have also been derived from Cucurbita maxima. Specific cultivars of winter squash derived from other species, including C. argyrosperma, and C. moschata, are also sometimes called “pumpkin”. In New Zealand and Australian English, the term pumpkin generally refers to the broader category called winter squash elsewhere. (Source: Wikipedia) Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

COVER DESIGN

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Jess Hourigan

ELEVATOR CREATIVE hello@elevatorcreative.com.au www.elevatorcreative.com.au

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: editor@grammagazine.com.au

DEPUTY EDITOR Lauren Bruce DEPUTY EDITOR Megan Osborne

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: distribution@grammagazine.com.au GENERAL ENQUIRIES: info@grammagazine.com.au www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au

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CONTRIBUTORS LAUREN BRUCE Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling.

She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.

JESS PIPER

laurendarcybruce.wordpress.com INSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia

ginger husband, who often feature on the

Jess is the Junior Vice President of the blog JP & Melbs as well as the sole employee. After moving to Melbourne from Sydney, this lycra clad cyclist started the blog to embrace her portion control issues and love of all things edible.

Jess owns a dramatic Puggle with her blog, and drools over all things that start with bacon or end in doughnut.

MEGAN OSBORNE Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy. meganosborne.com.au TWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

jpandmelbs.com INSTAGRAM: jpandmelbs_ TWITTER: jpandmelbs FACEBOOK: JP & Melbs

LA DONNA DEL VINO La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will happily try anything once but has a penchant for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and a good digestive.

LISA HOLMEN After spending most of my early years in Adelaide, I moved to Melbourne in my early 20s and a few years later moved to the big smoke in London. I started my blog, lisaeatsworld.com, to share my two big passions in life – food and travel.

My aim is to “eat the world” one inch at a time and explore as many different cuisines and cultures as possible. My current country count is 35 and hope to reach 50 by the end of 2015. lisaeatsworld.com TWITTER: lisa_eatsworld INSTAGRAM: lisaeatworld FACEBOOK: lisaeatstheworld

In her spare time you’ll find her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking good vino or working on her country property with her husband Wootten. ladonnadelvino.com TWITTER: ladonnadelvino FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino

BURGERS OF MELBOURNE Burgers of Melbourne is run by one Melbourne guy that just loves burgers.

I eat, picture and review the burgers of Melbourne. burgersofmelbourne.com.au INSTAGRAM: burgersofmelbourne

DEAN SCHMIDEG A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.

ON THE BANDWAGON Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian craft beer industry as a passionate advocate for local breweries and educating the masses about the beer they are drinking.

He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo Beer which runs many events including the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop

FACEBOOK: imagesds INSTAGRAM: dsimages TWITTER: imagesDS E: deany76@gmail.com

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festival.

TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

A L L

B O O K S A V A I L A B L E U N D E R T H E H A T

“Chef’s Hat is the place to go when you want to buy anything and everything from drinking straws and tea light candles all the way through to ovens and larger items, the service they provide is second to none and they are always there for me when I need advice or assistance. It really is Melbourne’s chefs and passionate cook’s one stop shop for everything food and kitchen related.”

David Schofield - Executive Chef

MEAT FISH WINE

www.chefshat.com.au

NOW OPEN

505 WINE ROOM OPENED: March 8, 2016 505 Wine Room is a related yet sophisticated space offering local and international wines paired with carefully chosen, exquisitely designed food.

505 is complemented by its own in-house bottle shop located on the corner, with specialist Sommeliers on hand to provide guidance on wine varieties. The menu at 505 makes it the perfect destination for an early bite or a late supper with a range of delicious options including tuna ceviche, local Snapper with zucchini, fragile, leads and pine nuts, slow cooked lamb shoulder and Violet crumble honeycomb with chocolate Aeros and ice cream.

The food menu is mapped out to specifically highlight which wines suit what menu items, making it easy to enjoy the very best dining experience. The menu is based on seasonal changes and the size of the plates make them perfect to share with friends.

The main bar downstairs offers flexibility for diners to choose from casual high tops or cafe style tables.

505 Wine Room is open 7 days a week from 12pm until late at 505 Malvern Road, Toorak.

FEAST OF MERIT ROOFTOP BAR

MILKCOW

OPENED: March 30, 2016 Richmond’s Feast of Merit this month launched their brand new rooftop bar. Head out the back and up the stairs to Feast of Merit’s brand new space, an intimate and secluded secret hideaway serving a delicious middle-eastern snack menu complimented with locally sourced wine and beer as well as delicious jugs of Pimms, Moscow Mule and Aperol Spritz.

OPENED: April 1, 2016 With over 100,000 Facebook followers from all around the world, organic soft serve connoisseurs Milkcow is the real deal. Milkcow is set to make its Aussie debut right here in Melbourne, with an exciting pop up store offering lucky city goers a light, milky and creamy ice cream experience that is sure to make them smile.

As with the famous restaurant, 100 per cent of profits from the bar are invested back into YGAP’s work supporting impact entrepreneurs changing lives in some of the world’s toughest communities. That’s what we call dining (and drinking) with purpose!

The Feast of Merit Rooftop bar is open Tuesday — Thursday: 5pm till late; Friday and Saturday: 3pm till late; Sunday: 12pm till 9pm 117 SWAN STREET, RICHMOND www.feastofmerit.com

505 MALVERN ROAD, TOORAK www.505wineroom.com.au

Like its name suggests, Milkcow is soft serve that’s just packed with pure milky goodness. Completely natural and made only with organic, locally sourced milk that is delivered straight from the cows, the brand’s distinct soft serves are churned fresh on site every day.

Located over at The Strand, Driver Lane and running from the April 1 through to the May 31, the Milkcow pop up store is a sweet treat not to be missed. And because no show is complete without the support of fantastic costars, Brand Works and Amanda May Lee (artisan paper maker and prop atelier) have transformed the once Cacao Lab into a wonderland of colour and fun, think oversized paper soft serve cones and forest of plants. In the delicious department, Naked Truth Chocolates and Sensory Lab will also be there to join in the fun.

THE STRAND, DRIVER LANE MELBOURNE milkcow.com.au

TRIPPY TACO SOUTHSIDE

TAHINI OPENED: March 8, 2016 Joseph Haddad​, Code Black Coffee founder, has this month launched new Melbourne hot spot, Tahini. Paying homage to his Lebanese roots (to such an extent that he invited family friend, Anthony El-Aridi over from Lebanon to head up the kitchen), Tahini invites diners to discover Lebanese dining that goes beyond the falafel.

Fresh, exciting and exceptionally tasty food will have diners come back for more, time and time again.

199 WILLIAM STREET, MELBOURNE tahinilebanesediner.com.au

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OPENED: April 2, 2016 Trippy Taco has come a long way. A forerunner in the food truck industry, owner Simon Fischer began the business in December 2000 serving his take on Mexican at some of the country’s biggest music festivals. Growing popularity led to a Northside location in 2006, Smith St Collingwood and moving around the corner in 2011 at the start of the “Mexican Wave” tsunami which hit Melbourne. Here it has remained with its original menu since.

Following a soft opening at the end of January, Trippy Taco has now announce the launch of it’s new St Kilda location on Saturday 2 April in St Kilda.

Expect to see more of their street inspired Mexican where a healthy and vegetarian and vegan cuisine takes centre stage.

6 ACLAND STREET, ST KILDA trippytaco.com.au

BON AP’ OPENED: February 16, 2016 With three of Melbourne’s best at the helm, Bon Ap’ was always set for greatness, on a petite scale. Damien Desbois (from Brittany), Francoise Lowe (Arcachon) and Sebastien Carmona’s (Toulouse) new French cafe and wine bar serves contemporary French cuisine, in a relaxed and casual setting. Smaller share plates invites diners to experience the very best of French cooking.

193 BRUNSWICK STREET, FITZROY facebook.com/Bon-Ap

AROUND THE TRAPS BATMAN NIGHT MARKET Melbourne – You know about the amazing food and wine culture, edgy graffiti art, vibrant street music scene and bustling markets, but have you heard about the newest kid on the block?

The new Batman Night Market will combine all of the above - food, craft beer and wine, street art and live music - in one spectacular Saturday evening out. Launched on April 2 at the former Batman Market site in 14 Gaffney Street, Coburg the new Night Market will open its doors from 4-9 pm every Saturday until the end of May. The Batman Night Market will play host to some of your favourite cuisines from all over the world, Melbourne style, from Peruvian BBQ, Chinese dumplings, Turkish Gozleme, Mexican paletas and Malaysian noodles to

Polish dumplings and Portuguese custard tarts. The Night Market will also have its own Public Bar with some of your favourite alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages at Coburg prices.

Like any great market Batman Night Market will also feature locally and internationally-made art and craft, design, textiles and jewellery to keep you browsing well into the evening.

WHEN: Every Saturday, from 4-9 pm, starting April 2 WHERE: 14 Gaffney Street, Coburg WHAT: Free entry, food, drinks, specialty shopping, live music and art batmanmarket.com.au facebook.com/batmanmarket instagram.com/batmanmarket/

BOOTS FOR CHANGE

(WA) Carlton (VIC), Golden Plains (VIC), and Adelaide Hills, Gawler, Mt Pleasant and Willunga (SA) kick up their boots.

The Australian Farmers’ Markets Association (AFMA) Boots for Change national awareness campaign symbolised by the simple act of pulling on boots– gumboots, work boots, riding boots, tap boots, cowboy boots, fashion boots – before shopping in local farmers’ markets has attracted wide national support.

The official launch of Boots for Change will be held at the Orange Farmers’ Market during Food Week on April 9, at North Court, Orange.

Forty-eight farmers’ markets in all states are hosting more than 80 Boots for Change Market Days during April 2016.

Some markets are donning their boots once to support their local farming families, while many weekly markets will bootup every market day during April.

All Boots for Change Market Days will celebrate Australia’s hard-working farming families and engage communities in conversations about the benefits of paddock-plate food supply, farmers’ markets and local, seasonal eating.

The first Boots for Change market days unfolded on April 2, when Albury Wodonga (NSW/VIC), Finley (NSW) Geraldton

Wed Fri Sat Sun

Boots for Change partners include Blundstone Australia, Bruny Island Cheese Co – whose brand marque just happens to be a pair of white Blunnie boots, and food and agriculture specialist market research company, Colmar Brunton.

Shoppers at farmers’ markets keen to support the initiative should check their local market’s website or go to: www.bootsforchange.org.au for the latest news on Boots for Change Market Days during April.

Boots for Change is a national activation of a 2015 ABC Heywire Youth Innovation Summit project and made possible by an ABC Heywire Youth Innovation Grant provided by the Foundation for Rural and Regional Renewal.

8am – 4pm 8am – 5pm 8am – 4pm 8am – 4pm

Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days

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UNCOMMON WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY JESS PIPER

If you have a friend coming to visit you and they want a real ‘Melbourne

me, you can bring your yogi, or your carnivorous friend, and they are both

breakfast experience’ (oh yeah, that’s a thing), walk straight into Uncommon,

going to love Uncommon.

Windsor. The fit out, the service, the menu, the cold brew and all those amazing ferns (plant love) will have them in awe of your amazing life and

Chef Kennedy (no relation to J.F….as far as I’m aware) has created a menu

breakfast opportunities.

that reads as well as it tastes. I’d dare say there would be a few pairs of teeny little food tweezers in that kitchen, and I am totally OK with that. I

(Side note, I haven’t had a snack in about 12 minutes, so that would mean I

ventured to Uncommon a few weeks after it’s opening in December 2015

am hungry and you can blame these rambles and tangents on that.)

and it was already running like a well-oiled machine.

That ‘healthy’ breakfast thing usually supported by those wearing lycra is

I’m typically indecisive when it comes to ordering, so I requested the

encouraged here, and you hear the murmurs of ‘I’m just going to finish my

assistance of the lovely top-knotted waiter in my decision-making. I really

chia/acai/grain thing then I might go to bikram, or barre, or maybe I’ll just

wanted to try the short rib, but the temperature outside was sitting around

talk about the gym until it’s time for cocktails’.

559 degrees, so I will save that bad boy for a cooler day.

But with Matt Kennedy at the helm, Uncommon provides a brilliant fresh

After much umming and ahhing, I decided on the market fish in coal oil,

take on this style of food and still throws in a brekky beef short rib for good

chickpea aioli, minted peas and broadbeans, 65 degree egg, coconut bacon

measure. Yes they’ve got the Acai and granola but you are going to find a

and mustard nectar dressing. Yes, that is the fanciest sounding breakfast I

lot of other choices will make you want to try the whole damn menu. Trust

have ever ordered. I felt I needed to court it before I consumed it.

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1. I primarily went with this dish because it had the word bacon in it. Then

As neither AB or I ever understand the meaning of being full/ordering too

realised after ordering, this was in fact coconut bacon. Nevertheless, I stuck

much, we knew breakfast dessert was absolutely going to happen. We

with my decision and it was terrific.

are also those people who stare at everyone else’s meal as it goes past to judge whether we ordered correctly or whether we need to keep ordering

2. The fish was Hapuka. Not to be confused with the ever amazing snow

other things. Yep, those people that just stop their conversation to inspect

boarding destination of Hakuba. (Ah best times everrrr. Until I fell down and

others’ meals. We know we do it, we know we may need to repeat the same

cracked my coccyx. That’s a story for another day.)

conversation seven times, but we are totally ok with that.

3. 65 degree eggs are a poach-lovers heaven on a plate. So much yolky

I’ve never been a big fan of sweet breakfasts and would usually always

goodness. Skills in that kitchen. Sk-ills.

choose the cheese platter (with all cheese options) instead of a sweet dessert, but these pikelets had my name all over them. (Well they didn’t

My bacon loving breakfast partner in Crime, AB, went with (big breath) hand

have a badge exactly, but I believe they could be renamed in my honour. JP’s

sliced salmon pastrami on pumpernickel (yes they make their own), soft herb

Pikeys. Hm maybe not.)

scrambles, whipped honey, salted kernels and chili capers. Wowzer. This was a damn good looking dish and AB loved it. The house made pumpernickel

These little crackers were a 90% banana and flaxseed pikelets, accompanied

looked epic. (Warning: wanky food lingo coming up… but every element

with Yarra Valley strawberries, cherries, poached green pawpaw, pure maple

was just prepared so well.)

and toasted milk. Yep I think they spelt heaven incorrectly. (Ermagherd).

These were phenomenal.

Uncommon’s food is, you guessed it, a bit left field, and is not going to be found in every café...its uncommon. (Duahh). Matt Kennedy has created a

Uncommon was one of the best meals/’breakfast experiences’ that I have

gem in Melbourne’s breakfast scene and has recently entered the dinner

had. Awesome, friendly service, cracking décor and the food, the glorious

realm. (Drooling already.)

food. Definitely worth the trip and the parking chaos. Just dream of JP’s pikeys and go test out the menu for yourself.

The Industry Beans cold brew had me raring to go as well. Ok, I might have had two…(three). There’s also a great range of teas for those tea-lovers,

UNCOMMON

a wattleseed chai which I will need to chai (haha…try/chai…) and a vanilla

60 Chaple Street, Windsor

bean matcha latte for those who need to eat whatever is trending on Twitter

(03) 9510 6655

at the moment.

uncommonfood.com facebook.com/uncommon3181 | instagram.com/uncommon3181

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INTERVIEW: DANNY BOWIEN CHRIS YING WORDS LAUREN BRUCE PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR

Considered an embarrassingly clichéd phrase among

restaurants in NYC” will have Mission Chinese Food

those in the industry, ‘fusion food’ has pervaded our food

appearing in your search results - but if you are lucky

culture for some time now. Cooking that has its roots

enough to get beyond our shores to the restaurant in

in specific traditions is being coaxed in new directions

New York, you’ll find your Mapo tofu and cumin lamb ribs

- you might see Nutella-filled gyoza on a pub’s dessert

served alongside decidedly non-Sichuan dishes like fried

menu, for example, or a seafood bouillabaisse flavoured

chicken and Neapolitan-style pizza. This might not make

with traditionally Indian spices at a modern European

sense at first, but the food is so damn tasty you won’t

restaurant. It makes sense, a good chef is creative, and

care by the time you leave.

the more food traditions you have been educated in, the more imaginative you can be with your dishes.

“I think when people walk into Mission, it’s kind of disarming,” Bowien says. “But it’s just... our thing. It’s

Taking this creativity to another level is the man behind

like going to see music [that you haven’t before], some

America’s Mission Chinese Food and Mission Cantina

musicians have different set-ups on stage, some people

restaurants, Chef Danny Bowien.

have different lighting. You might not be used to that musician or how they perform and it disarms you,

Bowien’s establishments are difficult to comprehend, even for the seasoned food-eater. Googling “Sichuan

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because you can’t approach it with a specific mindset.”

“That’s like at Mission Chinese… you come in and just

solely operated by Myint, while Bowien heads up the

don’t know what to expect. You see the wood oven, this

restaurants in New York.

crazy pizza coming out that could be served in Naples.

So I guess that’s our thing. You kind of just have to say

With a similar approach to both cooking food and writing

like, ‘f**k it’. The food has to be honest.”

about it, it’s no wonder Ying and Bowien are firm friends.

“I cooked while I was in college, just for fun, to like,

Bowien has been in Melbourne to promote the Mission

impress girls, I guess,” Ying laughs. “That didn’t work. So

Chinese Food (MCF) Cookbook during the Melbourne

I started cooking at Mission with Danny while I was still

Food and Wine Festival (“We’re here to sell a bunch more

working at [McSweeney’s], this independent publishing

cookbooks and like, make some money,” Bowien says in

company in the States.”

his no-bulls**t style), alongside his co-writer and friend, Chris Ying, editor and co-founder of groundbreaking food magazine, Lucky Peach.

Just like in the conversations between them published in the cookbook, Ying is always the one to bring Bowien back down to earth, this time, it’s about the Mission

What’s so refreshing about the narrative that runs throughout the book is how honest it is – which is indicative of Bowien’s and Ying’s style, reflected both in the Mission Chinese Food projects, and in Lucky Peach’s publications.

Chinese ethos that Bowien makes sound so simple.

“We worked together on the restaurant before the book “The thing is, it sounds kind of easy when Danny puts it

[was written], so when I met Chris, I thought he was a

like that; but the truth is it does come down to the fact

cook,” Bowien says. “He was a cook. But I didn’t know he

that Danny has a very special ability to make food taste

was a writer, and that he was working with McSweeney’s

good,” Ying says. “It’s like the hard thing about writing

at the time.”

and music and art, being a chef, at the end of the day, comes down to a person’s talent and their ability to taste

“I never really wanted to mix [writing and cooking],”

food. So if you just listen to Danny and ‘do whatever

Ying says. “But Danny and I would shoot the s**t about

makes you happy,’ you could end up with a terrible

cookbooks while we were working at the restaurant, and

result! That’s for me personally what’s very special about

then we were like, ‘Let’s just make a cookbook.’”

working with Danny.”

Thus the concept for the Mission Chinese Food Cookbook was born, at the same time as Bowien’s talent

Bowien and Ying met when the Mission Chinese Food

was gaining recognition.

juggernaut was a humble pop-up restaurant, set up by Bowien and co-founder Anthony Myint. Operating out

“Everything [with Mission Chinese] sort of just happened

of traditional Chinese takeaway establishment Lung

so quickly,” Bowien says. “Like, we started getting all

Shan in the Mission District of San Francisco, Mission

these crazy accolades. I think it’s in the book, but Michael

Chinese Food soon gained notoriety and required a few

Bower [an extremely well-known food critic in San

helping hands, of which Ying was one. The restaurant

Francisco] came into Mission Street Food one day. And

has since become a permanent establishment, almost

I was all casual about it like, “Oh, hey, Michael”, because

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I honestly didn’t think he was going to be writing or

back to the city because one of our cooks just punched

critiquing anything at Mission. And then he gave it a great

someone else and we gotta fire him.”

review. After that I got Rising Star Chef [awarded by the James Beard Foundation], and then we decided to move

What’s so refreshing about the narrative that runs

to New York and open up other restaurants.”

throughout the book is how honest it is – which is indicative of Bowien’s and Ying’s style, reflected both in

But it wasn’t all up and up for Bowien and the Mission

the Mission Chinese Food projects, and in Lucky Peach’s

Chinese

publications.

Food

restaurants,

which

also

meant

a

rollercoaster ride for the semi-autobiographical, novelcum-recipe book. It was a long time before Ying and

“I think why it’s so honest is that it’s a conversation

Bowien felt the book was complete.

between friends,” Ying says. “I think Danny trusted me to be honest and at the same time, not make the restaurant

“Every time we thought [the book] was done, something

look terrible; and my whole thing was like, if we just tell

else would happen,” Bowien says. “Positive and negative.

the truth and we don’t have any sinister intentions in

Like, we got Restaurant of the Year in the New York Times,

anything we do, if we just put it out there, I think we’ll

and then we got shut down by the Health Department.

produce something good.

It’s like, all these… you know, windfalls, and then horrible

make the book as honest as it is.”

I think that’s all we did to

failures.”

I think with both the Mission Restaurants and Lucky Peach, it’s like, you kind of just have to have a little bit of this naivety and honestly do make a restaurant or make a recipe book for yourself and don’t think about it [too much]

“If anything, I was very overbearing [towards Chris],” Bowien says. “I would be like, ‘Chris, we gotta add more,’ but you know, with books, you gotta cut it off at a certain point.”

It is clear that the strong friendship has not just contributed to the honesty of the book, but also the upbeat nature

“But it’s amazing, because the process of the book was

and the warmth that pervades every section, even when

Danny and me, sitting in rooms in various parts of the

the very difficult parts of Bowien’s history are addressed,

world, spending hours talking and recording hundreds

such as the death of his mother.

and hundreds of hours of conversation [to create the book],” Ying says.

This trust has also provided the basis of a great business relationship between the pair.

“And as we were doing that, all these other things were

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happening. Like, in one of our recorded conversations

“Danny and I have been friends for a long time. Before

for the book, Danny was like, ‘I’m really proud of the

Mission Chinese was successful, before Lucky Peach was

restaurant, and I’ve never had to fire anyone at the

created, before we had a cookbook, we just hung out and

restaurant, they’ve all been here since day one’; then

ate food together,” Ying says. “So it’s doesn’t feel like

the next day we get a call and Danny’s like, we gotta go

we’re colleagues or anything.”

“It’s weird because we do this book tour and it’s like, for

Ying concurs. “I think with both the Mission Restaurants

business, but I think when you become successful, the

and Lucky Peach, it’s like, you kind of just have to have a

people that were there with you before that, I mean, they

little bit of this naivety and honestly do make a restaurant

have your back,” Bowien says. “And that’s us. I mean,

or make a recipe book for yourself and don’t think about

we’re gonna be old Asian men eating noodle soup at a

it [too much],” Ying says.

restaurant at like 7am together.”

trait coveted by creatives the world over.

The thing is, it sounds kind of easy when Danny puts it like that; but the truth is it does come down to the fact that Danny has a very special ability to make food taste good.

Without appearing to pander to stakeholders or any

“Like Danny was saying, we never assumed anyone was

other authority, Lucky Peach publishes whatever it wants

going to review Mission Chinese Food because it wasn’t

– from transcripts of conversations between drunk chefs

even a real restaurant to us. It was just, like, a fun thing.

and food writers, to illustrations that are vaguely related

So was Lucky Peach. You kind of have to have faith that

to food and are bordering on the absurd.

when you do what you wanna do for yourself, that there’s

Likewise, Bowien’s restaurants, Mission Chinese Food and

people like you who are going to see what you do and

Mission Cantina, don’t allow any traditional definitions

like it.

It is clear through all of this that both Ying and Bowien are brave enough to just do whatever they want to do – a

get in the way of just making some bloody tasty food – whether that be Mapo tofu layered in a burrito, or serving

“You know, Danny does pizza at the Mission Chinese

a top quality Neapolitan-style pizza at a self-proclaimed

Restaurant in New York, because he likes to eat pizza,

Sichuan restaurant. “That’s how Mission Chinese started

because he finds it delicious. There shouldn’t be this

– I was tired of working for other people and having to

dividing line between [what you cook at your restaurant]

run certain dishes on certain days because that’s what

and what you like to eat. And it’s the best fucking pizza

people were expecting to eat,” Bowien says.

in New York, for sure.”

“So you have to create your own trajectory at that point.

The Mission Chinese Food Cookbook is available online

When you reach your glass ceiling, you can choose to go

and in stores now.

down the route of being like, a hotel chef, for example.

But for me, I kinda wanna be able to m be myself. And in

missionchinesefood.com

the chef world, it’s actually still not super acceptable yet

twitter.com/missionfood

to be actually yourself; to be different.”

instagram.com/missionchinesefood

“There’s a lot of macho chefs out there… and I was

twitter.com/dannbowien

NEVER like that. So I think that’s why I stepped out of

twitter.com/chrisyingz

kitchens where you walk in and expect chefs to be in all-

instagram.com/dannybowien

whites, you know… I wanted to do something for myself.”

instagram.com/chrisyingz

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BURGER BUSINESS WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BURGERS OF MELBOURNE

Burger Business opened its doors in early 2016, quickly becoming a crowd

On my second visit, I felt like keeping things simple, ordering a double

favourite to the local residents of Footscray and in particular, Victoria

cheese burger, a side of mini Cajun chicken bites and a chocolate milkshake.

University students.

Feeling cheeky, I added the Cajun chicken bites to the burger, and these little chicken bites gave the burger the extra kick it needed to really enhance

The family-run business have taken on customer feedback since their launch

the whole experience.

and used it to finess their offering, taking what was a good burger to the next level.

Alone, these Cajun chicken bites are not for those who cannot handle the heat. They deliver a real punch, which had the eyes watering, although mixed

The Double Bacon Feast is their most popular menu item: two grass-fed

with the beef and cheese – it was a combination that I would definitely

beef patties, two slices of American cheese, smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato,

recommend.

aioli and ketchup for $15.90 or $11.90 as a single patty version.

The milkshakes can only be described in one word - awesome! So much

It’s really not hard to see why this is a crowd favourite. The grass-fed beef

flavour and so much thickness, the way milkshakes are meant to be made.

patties are soft and juicy and the high melt cheese couldn’t have been more perfect. Complement this with the extra smoked bacon and super soft buns,

Burger Business has now lifted the burger game in Footscray to a new level.

and you have an instant recipe for success.

A place that should be on everyone’s ever-growing Melbourne burger list,.

If you are a local and haven’t heard of Burger Business until now, you can

Without modifications, the average price for a burger at Business Burgers is

thank me later.

$11, which is an absolute steal for the quality. Extra patties with cheese are $4, which is also a fairly good price for 170 gram patties.

BURGER BUSINESS 230 Nicholson St, Footscray (03) 9396 0368

UNCOMMON

15

THINGS WE LOVE GRAM FEATURE

BA BA ROLL, SPICE & RICE With their new location opening right out onto Coventry Street, Ba Ba Roll Spice and Rice at South Melbourne Market continues to grow in cult-like status with Market shoppers, local workers and residents, thanks to their deliciously fresh and tasty lunch options.

We love Ba Ba’s famous bánh mi, a mouth-watering Vietnamese baguette laden with fresh herbs, sweet chilli sauce, carrot, lettuce and your choice of pork, chicken, fish cakes or tofu. Bursting with flavour, we know you won’t mind the short wait while it’s made to order.

Their menu also showcases Indian, Thai and Vietnamese dishes including pho that is full to the brim with goodness BA BA ROLL, SPICE & RICE AT STALL S10

and made to order. Rice paper rolls, samosas and rice

SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU

dishes are also available.

Stall S10, Food Hall - South Melbourne Market

THE PIE PROJECT - BY PHOEBE WOOD AND KIRSTEN JENKINS Published by Hardie Grant Books The Pie Project is a collection of 60 sweet pie recipes, in all their bubbling, fruity, caremelised, buttery glory. This is not a book about French patisserie or fine-dining desserts, these are just really good recipes for the home cook to blow the socks off their friends and family.

Authors Phoebe & Kristen, encourage readers to use imperfect fruit, play around with latticed pastry and bake the pies in whatever they have handy (some are cooked in skillets, or even enamel bowls).

Pies are very forgiving desserts: spillages really are just an opportunity for more caremelisation and a misshapen one just adds to the rustic feel!

Phoebe and Kirsten are out to convince the world that pie really is a dish that should be enjoyed every day and The Pie Project is the collection of recipes that will make it happen!

RRP: $29.95 - Avaliable in all good bookstores

follow gram magazine on instragram for your daily foodie inspiration

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A FOODIE’S GUIDE TO QUEENSTOWN WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY MEGAN OSBORNE

Any individual that wears the title ‘Foodie’ (self-proclaimed or not) with

This list of dining suggestions includes top-notch hospitality, gourmet

pride, is also likely to be someone that plans the food component of their

grub, and carefully considered cuisine.

holidays... wisely. A little research goes a long way, and whether you’re on one end of the spectrum—that asks people who have been, and then the locals about where to go—or the other—that you reserve a spot in a

BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, COFFEE + SNACKS

restaurant first, and look at nearby hotels to stay in second—food still rates

Avoid the typical hotel buffet breakfast, where the eggs are always

very high on your priority list for a true travel experience.

overdone, and copious amounts of salt are needed on the soggy array of mushrooms, bacon and beans. Try one of these cute local spots instead.

Queenstown in the South Island of New Zealand is a breathtakingly beautiful place to visit all year round, but if you’re looking to hit the slopes

VUDU CAFE & LARDER

this winter, visit during the coldest months (June to September, with

There’s Vudu, and then there’s Vudu Cafe & Larder. There’s no real harm in

August being the best for snow) and you won’t be disappointed.

getting the two confused; the only difference is the modern and light-filled interior of the latter. The coffee is super, enough to make any Melburnian

Prior to travelling, I embarked on a little word-of-mouth discovery from

feel at home, and the baked goods are rustic and mouth-watering. The

people who had visited, lived or worked in Queenstown. ‘Where is the best

breakfast offering is hearty and quirky, with standouts being some tasty

place to eat?’ was always one of my initial questions, and in retrospect I’m

grilled haloumi and poached eggs. Definitely a stop to fill up on protein

very disappointed to tell you that the common answer was Fergburger. As

and get you ready for an adventure-packed day.

far as burgers go, they were good. But lining up for the better part of an

16 Rees St, Queenstown

hour with 70 other people—in the snow—good? Safe to say, unless you’re

vudu.co.nz

a burger fiend, steer clear.

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THE EXCHANGE

COOKIE TIME

Similar to a brekkie you might have wandering down Chapel Street in

What started out as a cheeky post-snowboarding snack, turned into an

Prahran, Burke Road in Camberwell, or—let’s be honest—most streets

addictive, daily calorie-crazy ritual. Cookie Time is a bit of a New Zealand

in Melbourne, The Exchange prides itself on flavourful coffee, freshly

institution, and if you’ve ever had one of their steaming hot and still gooey

squeezed fruit and veg juices, and bursting-with-zing dishes. The rustic

treats fresh out of the oven, you’ll know why. They also run some sweet

eggs Benedict with a house-made potato rosti and creamed spinach is a

deals like cookie happy hour, and discounts for lift-pass holders. A must

(fantastic) punch to the tastebuds, and the sweet corn fritters with maple

munch for those with a sweet tooth.

bacon doesn’t disappoint either.

18 Camp Street, Queenstown

39 Ballarat Street, Queenstown

cookiebar.co.nz

theexchangecafe.kiwi

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DINNER + DRINKS If you’re from Melbourne, then you’ve probably spent most your life, living

RATA

in a food-lovers paradise (cue Coolio). Lucky for you, there are a TONNE of

Rata by Michelin chef Josh Emett is an elegant and refined dining concept,

restaurants in Queenstown. But after a few conversations indicating local

set in a dark and sexy contemporary interior. The food is of exceptional

attitudes ‘more is better, feed me meat, lots of meat!’, we decided to do our

calibre, with the wine list featuring select drops from the Otago region,

own investigating. Sans the snobbery, I think it’s fair to say that Melbourne

and slightly further afield New Zealand, too. Little morsels of goats

has some ripper food, and that quality over quantity reigns popular. Here’s

cheese profiteroles with blossom honey and rosemary make for delicious

a few of Queenstown’s best (from a Melburnian perspective).

starters, as does the seared Wakanui sirloin with crispy ox tongue, oyster mayonnaise and edamame. Every dish is presented with masterful

MADAM WOOS

technique, and if you’re lucky enough to slide into a spot at the bar, you

Modern Malaysian Hawker-inspired cuisine meets funky upbeat interior.

can watch the elaborateharvey cocktail making process too. The highlight

Wait for your table (and you will have to wait) upstairs at an intimate

is the beautifully quaint cheese trolley that gets rolled table to table after

lounge/bar, and try one of their intriguing cocktails, such as the apple and

the main course. Reservations are essential, so don’t miss out on this fine

elderflower collins, or the lemongrass and chilli mojito. Dining downstairs

dining experience and make sure to book ahead.

is casual and close quarters, so don’t be surprised if conversation occurs

Te Nuku, 43 Ballarat St, Queenstown

between neighbouring tables—something that seems natural within the

ratadining.co.nz

friendly and sociable vibe Madam Woos creates. From roti rolls to laksa, market fish curry, and shredded duck noodles, to lychee salads, Madam

EICHARDT’S BAR

Woos is definitely a flavour journey. Finish up with crispy fried banana and

Downstairs from the boutique private hotel—Eichardt’s—is this intimate

spicy ginger ice cream.

little bar that makes a perfect cosy spot to settle yourself into for the

5 The Mall, Lower Ballarat Street, Queenstown

evening. Order Bollinger by the glass, or one of their more exciting cocktails

madamwoo.co.nz

while you nestle down into a luxurious sofa. In the coldest weather you can

20

enjoy the crackling fireplace and smooth mulled wine, while you nibble

PATAGONIA CHOCOLATES

on delicious treats such as wild game terrine with homemade pickles and

A small local chain store, Patagonia Chocolates also have a cafe in

relish, or calamari in squid ink batter with lemon aioli, followed by cute and

Queenstown, but it’s worth a pop by the Arrowtown location to pick up

scrumptious petit fours.

a hot lavender chocolate to keep you warm while you explore the main

2 Marine Parade, Queenstown

shopping strip. With gourmet gelato for the warmer weather, you can grab

eichardtsbar.com

some takeaway, or dine in and explore ridiculously rich and memorable sweet treats. The individual chocolates are rather exceptional for a take-

A DAY TRIP TO ARROWTOWN

home tidbit.

Only a half hour trip out of Queenstown, plan a day in nearby Arrowtown.

patagoniachocolates.co.nz

31 Ramshaw Lane, Arrowtown

If you don’t have a car, there’s a handy local bus that will drop you off and pick you up, leaving you to peruse the numerous delis, old-fashioned shops and even partake in a scenic river walk.

THE CHOP SHOP FOOD MERCHANTS You will queue for The Chop Shop, but it will be worth it. Trendy and quirky food pairings result in some fantastic dishes, such as a smoked pork hock hash, and surprisingly good coffee served in boat-sized mugs. The menu is a strange mix of many different cuisines, but it really works, and if the crowds are anything to go by, it consistently works, too.

44 Buckingham Street, Arrowtown, Queenstown

21

TENPIN KITCHEN WORDS LISA HOLMEN PHOTOGRAPHY TIM GREY

When I first moved to Melbourne, I lived in Port Melbourne for a couple of years, so I have developed a natural fondness for the bayside suburb. It’s amazing to see how much the area has grown over the years. Today it’s quite the foodie hub – packed full of cafes, restaurants, “high end” takeaway joints and a lot of gyms. I remember spending many balmy summer evenings enjoying a drink or two at the former R Bar on Beach Road, not so much for the food, but for the gorgeous views over the ocean – a perfect way to wind up a stressful working week.

R Bar may be closed but Tenpin Kitchen, a South-East Asian-inspired restaurant, has taken up residence, opening in mid-December last year. In case you’re thinking it doubles as a bowling alley, regretfully it does not. The name is inspired by the giant bowling pin, scavenged from Mentone Bowls, that now takes residence in the upstairs bar.

Tenpin Kitchen is the brain child of hospitality dream team Nick Savage, Lyndal Barnes and Matt Thurley, who have teamed up with Executive Chef, Ashley Richey, (Mr Lawrence, Chin Chin, Mecca Bah) to convert this rundown two storey space into a contemporary eatery with an Asian twist.

22

23

With Richey in the kitchen you can expect dishes full of palate-popping, punchy flavours. He believes in honest, tasty food and prides himself in sourcing local and sustainable ingredients in his cooking. With hints of Vietnamese, Thai, Indonesian and perhaps a touch of Japanese, Richey has cleverly crafted a menu driven by technique and spice. Designed to share, the plates are best enjoyed with a group of family and friends, so you can enjoy as many as possible! Think Harvey Bay half-shell scallops with smoked trout lemongrass, pork and kimchi dumplings and duck larb paired with chilli, mince, lime and roasted rice. There are also plenty of options for people who are vegan or gluten-free.

As far as the interior goes, it’s fairly unrecognisable from its former R Bar days. The dining room downstairs is light and airy, boasting a soaring ceiling and stripped-back concrete walls. It has kept a semi industrial feel, with subtle design cues for Asian pop cult classics on the menu to provide a touch of brightness. A long marble communal table takes centre stage, surrounded by a wrap around mustard coloured velvet banquette and classroom-style blonde timber tables and chairs.

The service was a little frustrating on our first visit and it was really difficult to get the waitress’s attention to order or just track down a wine. But I guess this could be down to some initial teething problems. The restaurant manager was very friendly, knowledgeable and eager to please.

We started with a comforting bowl of buttermilk fried chicken ribs ($12.50), which are definitely worth getting your hands dirty for (trust me!). Crispy, golden and buttery in all the right places, the batter is exceptional and finished with a generous sprinkling of five spice salt to give it a bit of punch.

The chicken itself is warm, moist and beautifully cooked with a nice side of kewpie mayonnaise.

A plate of pork belly was packed full of zest, flavour and texture. A salad of wombok slaw was nicely dressed with nahm jim and studded with cashew

24

nuts. The belly itself was fleshy and tender but just needed a little bit more crispiness on the top layer.

Corn and coriander fritters were nice little golden morsels, crisp on the exterior and pillowy within. Served with lettuce cups, they are perfect for wrapping and eating with your hands, with a generous dollop of roast tomato sambal.

My personal favourite was the tea-smoked salmon salad which burst with freshness and summery flavour. Slithers of fresh mango were paired with lemongrass to give the dish great depth in flavour and a hint of chilli for a bit of heat. The trout was cooked beautifully, with a subtle smokey flavour.

Cocktails are a focus on the menu, with a mouth-watering ensemble of long, short, stemmed options. Expect twists on classics like the “Hidden Mule”, a refreshing concoction of lemongrass-infused vodka, vanilla, citrus and ginger, and the “Cha Cha” – a spiced tea accompanied by spiced pear syrup and vanilla vodka. My pick was the “Bottanica”, a fluorescent green cocktail infused with botanically rich gin, freshly squeezed lime-juice and elderflower liquor. Highly recommended.

There’s also a good range of small-parcel wines sourced both internationally and locally, craft beers and spirits.

TENPIN KITCHEN 67 Beach Street, Port Melbourne (03) 9041 3211 tenpinkitchen.com.au instagram.com/tenpinkitchen

25

ABBACCHIO OF GOAT SHOULDER, PEPPERS AND SALTED RICOTTA RECIPE UNION DINING FEATURED IN FLAVOURS OF URBAN MELBOURNE By Smudge Publishing

SERVES FOUR INGREDIENTS DAY ONE

Preheat oven to 160°C on fan-forced. Spread all the

2kg whole goat shoulder, cut like osso bucco (ask

goat pieces over a deep dish baking tray (a cast iron

your butcher)

Le Creuset style dish is perfect). Equally spread the

1 small head garlic (cloves separated, lightly ‘smashed’

shallots, garlic, red wine, chicken stock and tomato

with a mallet)

amongst the goat and ensure it is well covered (if

10 anchovies

some parts are sticking out that is ok).

3 bay leaves ½ bunch thyme

Liberally

½ bunch oregano

Parmesan all over the goat, drizzle with extra virgin

750ml (1 bottle) full bodied red wine 250ml extra

olive oil and a few knobs of butter. Cover with silicon

virgin olive oil

paper and wrap tightly with foil and cook in an oven

1 tablespoon black peppercorns, crushed in the

on 160°C for 4 hours. Check for doneness – the meat

mortar and pestle

should be falling off the bone (if not done, return to

scatter

the

breadcrumbs

and

grated

the oven for a further 30 minutes.)

DAY TWO 10 shallots, peeled and roughly chopped

Remove from the oven when done. Season with salt

5 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped

and pepper, and add garnishes to dish.

250ml red wine 500ml chicken stock

GARNISHES

375ml tin crushed tomato

Cut the peppers into “cheeks” by following the natural

½ cup panko breadcrumbs

seams of the pepper, use an asparagus peeler to peel

2 tablespoons Parmesan, grated

the skin off the peppers. Place the pepper cheeks in

50g unsalted butter, cut into cubes

a shallow saucepan with the olive oil, bay leaf, garlic and thyme and put on a low heat on the stove. Bring

GARNISHES

to a simmer, cook gently for 10 minutes, we want the

2 red peppers

peppers to soften but not fall apart. Take off the heat

2 yellow peppers

and allow to cool slightly in the oil, then gently lift out

2 cups olive oil

the peppers and season with salt.

1 bay leaf 1 garlic clove

TO SERVE

3 sprigs thyme

Scatter the torn olives over the goat, and the peppers,

1 cup manzanilla or kalamata olives, deseeded and

then use a microplane to grate the ricotta over the

roughly broken up 50g piece of ricotta salata

top and serve! At Union Dining we also serve the goat

Radicchio leaves

with some radicchio leaves.

CHEF’S TIP

METHOD

“This recipe is one of my favourites. An abbacchio is

DAY ONE

a classic Tuscan dish, usually with a whole baby lamb

Separate all the goat pieces and place in a suitable

or goat. It is a braised dish with loads of big flavours

rectangular plastic container with a well fitting lid.

and best served as a shared dish in the middle of

Add all the ingredients, massage the goat pieces well

the table for everyone to get stuck into. The recipe

so that they are all well coated and leave in the fridge

takes a couple of days but it is worth it! If you are not

overnight to marinate.

serving it immediately, allow goat to cool in the dish and store in fridge, the next day the flavours will be

DAY TWO

more developed, just remove any solidified extra fat

The next day strain the goat pieces and discard

before you reheat the goat in the same dish.”

the marinating liquid, but keep all the other bits of garnish with the goat.

26

RETURN OF THE MACK RECIPE MOON DOG CRAFT BREWERY FEATURED IN FLAVOURS OF URBAN MELBOURNE By Smudge Publishing

SERVES 8-10 INGREDIENTS

METHOD

BASIC DOUGH

BASIC DOUGH

1kg ‘00’ fine baker’s flour

Combine the yeast and the water. Give it a little mix

100g semolina, plus more for dusting 30g fresh

to break up the yeast, then let stand for 20 minutes.

baker’s yeast 20g fine salt

In a large bowl, combine the flour, semolina and

720ml water (warmed to 30°C) 40ml olive oil

yeast mix. Knead for 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and taut.

TOPPING Confit garlic

Now add the salt and knead for a further 5 minutes

Mozzarella

until well combined.

Capers Red onion

Add the oil, kneading until combined. Place ball of

Olives

dough in a large bowl and cover with cling wrap. Let

Truffled mackerel

it rise in a warm spot for 1-2 hours, or until the dough

Mascarpone

has doubled in size.

Dill Once doubled, divide the dough into portions. You should get 8-10 dough balls per batch depending on how big you make them. Aim for 250g-280g balls.

Roll each piece into tight balls. Dust with flour then put on a tray to let them rise again, making sure they have enough room to double in size without touching each other. Cover with a damp (not wet) cloth and let rise for about 45-60 minutes.

Oil the pizza tray and add a light coating of semolina.

Stretch the pizza out onto the tray.

TOPPING Cover the base with confit garlic then add mozzarella, red onions, olives and capers and pop it into a oven set to the highest temperature.

TO SERVE When the pizza is cooked, cut it into slices and then add some dollops of mascarpone, mackerel fillets and a sprinkle of fresh dill.

Recipes featured in this month’s edition of GRAM Magazine, proudly brought to you by

CHEF’S TIP

Flavours of Urban Melbourne - Edition 2.

“We use sourdough culture for our dough but for this recipe I have substituted it with fresh baker’s yeast.”

Published by Smudge Publishing RRP: $79.99 Available at all good bookstores

REVIEWS SEVEN SEEDS - SEASONAL ESPRESSO BLEND WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG In the mornings across Italy you’ll find espresso bars filled

Seven Seeds and their Seasonal Espresso Blend, which is

with locals grabbing a coffee and maybe a pastry before

adapted regularly depending on the crop. The current one is

continuing on their way to work. It is a ritual, something they

50% Ethiopian and 25% Colombian, providing drinkers with a

do at the same place and generally the same time, every day,

bright and lively cup, balanced by the remaining 25% of beans

without fail. You’ll often see people striking up a conversation

from Brazil which give it body. Seven Seeds are known for a

with whoever is next to them, or having a chat to the barista,

lighter roast, designed to bring out the fruitier characteristics,

always standing, never sitting. While this process is usually

however the blend has been engineered to give you flavours

quick and could probably be done on the run, takeaway

of butterscotch, raisin and cocoa which means the coffee

coffee is not the norm, it is about socialising, enjoying that

also works well for those who take milk. As you know, I

first cup at the cafe and taking time to savour a moment.

usually tend to seek out a darker roast, however I still enjoy the Seasonal Espresso from Seven Seeds because I find the

This is where Dan Chrystal comes into the story, originally

acidity to be well balanced regardless of the composition.

from WA with a background in finance, he moved here to pursue a career in insurance before becoming disillusioned

Dan has made his mark on this little corner off Flinders

and handing in his resignation. He wanted to enter the

Street, endearing himself to the locals who want good coffee

hospitality scene and give people a high level of service,

without the fuss. It’s about service with a smile, passion for the

so when the opportunity arose for him to run his own little

product he works with and ultimately creating a relationship

espresso bar, he jumped at the chance. Just over a year ago

that brings his customers back on a daily basis. He may be

he opened Stand Up Cafe, which operates from a laneway

very chilled and laid back, but for Dan coffee is a drink best

window to give Melburnians in the area a place to stop briefly

served standing up.

for their daily caffeine hit, enjoy some social interaction and feel welcomed, without needing to sit down. People in the city are always in a rush and often prefer takeaway coffee,

SEVENSEEDS.COM.AU ENQUIRIES@SEVENSEEDS.COM.AU 9347 8664

however Stand Up regulars often hang around at the bar to chat to Dan or mingle with each other in the lane. There’s even a basketball ring on the side of the building to shoot some hoops while you wait for your coffee.

Talking about the coffee, Dan wanted to partner with a roaster who shared his desire to provide exceptional service

HERE ARE A FEW CAFES WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY THE SEVEN SEEDS SEASONAL BLEND Stand Up Cafe - rear of 524 Flinders St CBD Traveller - 2/14 Crossley St, CBD Patricia - cnr Little Bourke St & Little William St, CBD Square & Compass - 222 Clarendon St, East Melbourne Hortus - 131-141 Harbour Esplanade, Docklands Mile End Bagels - 14 Johnston St, Fitzroy Burnside - 87 Smith St, Fitzroy Kines - 11 Hope St, Brunswick

and also a high quality product. The choice was made to use

40 ACRES CLEAR AS MUD PORTER WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON Autumn has finally arrived and it’s a time when beer lovers

sweetness and a delightful coffee coloured head which is

have the best of both worlds. Mild, sunny days and cool

dense and fluffy. I really liked it, but as always, I like to get

nights mean a hoppy pale ale after work and a nice dark ale

the brewer’s insights as well. I had a chance to talk to Trev

with dinner. Oh, the joy! With this is mind, I thought I’d let

about the reactions he got from punters at the festival. “It

you all know about a particularly good porter that has just

was definitely polarising. Precisely half mentioned it was is

been released by new guys on the block, 40 Acres Brewing.

too strong or dark for them while the other half rated it as the best beer they’ve ever had! One gentleman, a 72 year

Based in Sandon, central Victoria 40 Acres is the passion

old, said it was the best dark beer he’d had in his life and his

project of Trev Mitchell and his wife Jo. They run a completely

wife wanted to have my babies. I don’t think I’ll be taking

organic farm (40 acres) with some cows, pigs, organic hops

him up on that though.” Ok, *ahem*…. wow.

and a little farm stay for any Melbournites keen to escape

ABV: 4.8 % STYLE: Porter SERVING TEMP: 4-6 degrees (colder than usual) FOOD PAIRING: Steak / Chocolate Mud Cake ORIGIN: Bendigo, Victoria PRICE (RRP): Takeaway $4 330ml, $75 carton CHECK OUT: fortyacres.com.au

30

the rat race for a weekend. The Clear As Mud Porter is

Although I’m not quite ready to offer my better half to

their second release, the first being a delicious session IPA,

Trev just yet, I do agree the Clear As Mud Porter is good

brewed for the recent Bendigo Craft Beer & Cider Festival

enough to make you at least consider it. Clear As Mud

so that they had more than one beer to talk about!

is available throughout central Victoria at good beer venues and bottle shops and in Melbourne at selected,

Clear As Mud Porter is true to style with no chocolate

lucky venues. Check out some home delivery options at:

malt added. Even so, I found it to have a spicy, chocolate

boozebud.com.au/beer

flavour with a dense, dark appearance with some slight

QUARTZ HILL Viognier 2014

TWO WRONGS South Yarra

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BARD/UP

Pyrenees, Central Victoria. RRP: $32

In collaboration with Pistonhead Lager Australia and Beau Joie Australia

Things were a bit quiet at the South Yarra end of Chapel St with a lot of the new bars and restaurants opening down in Windsor. That is until Two Wrongs Melbourne opened and made it right again. Taking over the space under The Olsen Hotel, Zachary Riggs and Isaac Constantine have provided us with a venue that is full of contradictions. It’s a bar where the beer and cider come in cans, but also a restaurant where you can eat amazing food and drink fine champagne from cut crystal glasses. There are rotating DJs to keep you entertained while you have a game of pool, or grab the couch in front of the TV and play Mario Kart on the Nintendo 64 and practice for the weekly Wednesday night Mario Kart comp.

“Oh my, that’s delicious!” exclaimed my sister-in-law at dinner.

I had just poured her a glass of the Quartz Hill Viognier and she had sampled it before I even had the chance to. I hastily grabbed my glass to see what all the fuss was about. Normally I am a little suspect of the Viognier grape, only because of how infrequently I get to try it. Not being that familiar with the Quartz Hill winery from central Victoria, I decided to see what this one had to offer.

This wine was made from low-yielding grapes by two winemakers, Darrin Gaffy of the Principia wines and John Durham of Del Rios.

They opted for a pristine, high-flavoured wine that was matured in aged French oak on lees for 16 months to give the wine great mouthfeel. The palate says hello with fresh, zingy acidity that is quickly followed up by full texture, thick lanolin notes and fancy French oak. Think flavours of paw paw with a hint of butter. The overall palate was smooth and beautifully balanced with coolclimate Chardonnay-like characters. Suffice to say that our little dinner party was impressed and we finished the bottle off all too quickly alongside a Moroccan chicken tagine.

Going back to the food on offer, the boys have partnered with talented chef Paul Turner (ex.

Qualia, Church St Enoteca, Cutler & Co.) to provide patrons with a fine dining experience without fuss and pretension. It’s about having quality produce, prepared in an inventive way but in an environment where you feel comfortable and relaxed. A second bar upstairs with private booths gives you a place to start or finish the night with one of the great cocktails, and while there is a little grunge everywhere you look, the whole space has a sense of luxury and once you arrive it’s very hard to leave.

You may not expect it, but prepare to be looked after by staff who actually care, and believe it when we tell you that you’ll come back again and again, trying to discover what’s so wrong with this place that makes it so right.

HEAD TO BARDUP.COM.AU TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO. INSTAGRAM - @bardupmelb FACEBOOK - facebook.com/bardupmelb TWO WRONGS 637 Chapel St, South Yarra, VIC, 3141 9827 4510 twowrongs.com.au

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OUT AND ABOUT FEAST OF MERIT ROOFTOP LAUNCH PHOTOGRAPHY MAX KRUSE CREATIVE

MISSION CHINESE FOOD CHINIZZA PARTY PHOTOGRAPHY PIA HAMBOUR

Richmond’s Feast of Merit this month launched their brand new rooftop bar. Head out the back and up the stairs to Feast of Merit’s brand new space, an intimate and secluded secret hideaway serving a delicious middle-

eastern snack menu complimented with locally sourced wine and beer as well as delicious jugs of Pimms, Moscow Mule and Aperol Spritz.

The MFWF’s Chinizza Party – meant to be a book signing with some pizza and booze served on the side – was an entrée to the Attica dinner main course of Lucky Peach Editor-In-Chief Chris Ying, and Mission Chinese Food co-founder and rising star chef Danny Bowien’s book tour. It was a gaggle of people trying to get a taste

of the world’s food elite for those who missed out on the Attica golden ticket. Victor Liong of Lee Ho Fook and Lawyers, Guns and Money served up his “Chinizza” – a fusion mouth-party of fried pizza dough, buffalo mozzarella and spring onion – while Bowien and Ying briefly spoke about their fantastic book.

THE DIARY

11 April 2016

1 May 2016

Eureka89 - Riverside Quay, Southbank

Immigration Museum - 400 Flinders Street, Melbourne

One of Australia’s most respected and awarded regional chefs, Robin Wickens of the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, will prepare a lavish five course dinner designed around the highest quality of his locally sourced produce, at Eureka 89 on Monday 11 April 2016. Wines will be matched with each course.

Experience Asia in the city with a sample of culinary delights, vibrant performances and iconic traditions from one of the most captivating continents on earth.

REGIONAL VICTORIA COMES TO MELBOURNE

Working collaboratively with Eureka 89 Executive Chef Renee Martillano, Robin Wickens aims to bring the best of the Grampians region – including the property’s own beef and lamb that has been born and bred in Dunkeld – to the heart of Southbank, Melbourne.

Tickets: $170 per person Tables of 10: $1600 (enter coupon code eureka10 and click ‘Apply Coupon’ to apply table discount) eureka89.com.au royalmail.com.au

FEAST ASIA

Enjoy a range of hands on activities including Japanese Taiko drumming, Martial arts and Chinese Lion Dancing workshops alongside Filipino BBQ, Vietnamese coffee and Taiwanese street food.

Feast Asia will also feature an Asian beer bar, concert hall, panel discussions and tastings of the finest whiskey from the region.

Early bird tickets $15 (until 24 April) Adults $17 Concession, Members and kids FREE museumvictoria.com.au/immigrationmuseum

14 April 2016

VIETNAMESE VERMICELLI SALAD AND SPRINGROLLS MASTERCLASS Ba’get - Elizabeth St - Argus Building 359 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne

Learn the secrets to making delicious, mouth-watering Vietnamese Vermicelli Salads and the perfect accompliment - crispy delectable spring rolls with dipping sauce.

This hands on masterclass will take you through making lemongrass beef, nuoc mam, and spring rolls. We’ll taste our way through Vietnamese flavours, herbs and sauces. The class culminates in a sumptuous dinner with cocktails to match. Ba’get is breathing new life into Age-Old Recipes.

Included: Welcome cocktail on arrival and drink with meal.

Hands on cooking demonstration. You will be chopping and marinating all night long.

Food, food, food. You won’t go hungry and there’ll be plenty to take home.

Showbag filled with recipes and offers. $58.35 per person. Tickets avaliable through EventBrite baget.com.au

17 April 2016

GAUCHITO GIL’S MALBEC WORLD DAY Meat Market - 3 Blackwood Street, North Melbourne

Come join us for a celebration of Argentina’s most famed grape including examples from Australia. This is red wine loving heaven!

WHO IS GAUCHITO GIL? He is an Argentine Robin Hood-like character who stole from the rich to give to the poor. As a result, he gained somewhat of a following and in wonderful Argentinean twist of fate, is effectively known as the patron saint of thieves.

Malbec World Day has traditionally been dominated by Argentina as Mendoza really is the spiritual home of the variety. With many great examples available in Australia, we are ‘stealing’ some of the lime light and plan of celebrating both Argentinean and Australian examples of the grape.

Time: 1pm till 6pm Tickets include an epic Plumm Vintage REDa wine glass (valued at $30) for you to taste from and take home plus ALL wine tastes. No tockens As tradition has it, the Golden Empanada Trophy will be back in Melbourne as some of the culinary best fight it out in the professional and people’s choice competition.

Empanadas will be available to purchase on the day as well as other tasty treats.

22 April 2016

RICE AROUND THE WORLD: INDIA TO LOUISIANA The Neff Market Kitchen - Stall 90, Cecil Street, South Melbourne

Rice is far more than just a basic staple; it creates impressive, flavour packed main meals from around the world. In this class David introduces four different varieties and cooking techniques, with recipes including Indian spiced pilaf to accompany chicken tikka curry, Chinese style kim chee lup cheong fried rice, Louisiana ham and bacon jambalaya, and for something sweet, an Indonesian black rice coconut pudding.

Whether you want to explore a new cuisine, learn some new techniques or simply expand your cooking repertoire, our highly experienced instructors will teach you how to prepare delicious dishes that are guaranteed to impress.

Time: 6.30 - 8.30pm Cooking Level: Basic – intermediate Includes: lunch/dinner and recipe pack Cost: $105.00 pp southmelbournemarket.com.au

10 April 2016

WINE AND CHEESE FEST 2016 PRESENTED BY NAKED WINES Meat Market - 3 Blackwood Street, North Melbourne

Following the great success of the 2014 and 2015 spring events at Seaworks in Williamstown, The Wine and Cheese Fest is moving to the Meat Market heritage building in North Melbourne with new autumn outlook.

Showcasing over 40 exhibitors, live entertainment, jazz band, DJ, Grape Stomp Comp, Kids Zone, amazing heritage ambient and setting, this event has something for everyone!

Tickets on sale at following prices: - $26 for Entry Only + Festival Glass ($30 at the door) - $32 for GA + 5 Tokens* + Festival Glass ($40 at the door) *Tokens are worth $2 each and are redeemable for a 30ml-50ml of wine (picollo tasting glass) at the participatring vendors. Tokens will be sold on the event as well.

Group Bookings: cheers@wineandcheesefest.com.au wineandcheesefest.com.au instagram.com/wineandcheesefest

bottleshopconcepts.com/gauchitogil

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THE GRAM STORE MONTHLY SPECIALS GROUNDED PLEASURES SEVEN SPICE SRI LANKAN CHAIR 200gm WAS $12.90

PRANA CHAI MASALA BLEND 250gm WAS $20.00 APRIL ONLY $14.00

APRIL ONLY $9.05

USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30

USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30

GROUNDED PLEASURES AFRICAN RED DRINKING CHOCOLATE 200gm WAS $11.90

GROUNDED PLEASURES TAHITIAN VANILLA DRINKING CHOCOLATE 200gm WAS $12.80

APRIL ONLY $8.30

APRIL ONLY $8.95

USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30

USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30

PRANA CHAI AGAVE BLEND 250gm WAS $24.00 APRIL ONLY $16.80

CIRELLI COFFEE CHOCOLATTA DRINKING CHOCOLATE 200gm WAS $12.00

USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30

APRIL ONLY $8.40 USE CODE: CHOCCHAI30

ADVERTISERS DIRECTORY CHEF’S HAT 131 Cecil St South Melbourne Phone: 03 9682 1441 chefshat.com.au

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SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET Corner of Coventry and Cecil Streets, South Melbourne PHONE: 03 9209 6295 southmelbournemarket.com.au

SPIRAL FOODS Unit 12, 51 Moreland Road Coburg PHONE: 8616 7800 spiralfoods.com.au

SQUARE sales-au@squareup.com squareup.com/au

YARRA VALLEY DAIRY 70-80 McMeikans Rd, Yering yvd.com.au

THE GRAM STORE

HOT CHOCOLATE AND CHAI SALE 30% OFF ALL DRINKING CHOCOLATE AND CHAI STOCK APRIL ONLY

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