Great Taste Magazine 2011 Mar/Apr Issue

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YARD HOUSE GARDEIN © 10 MARCH • APRIL 2011

GLUTEN-FREE 14

HERB LIQUEUR 22

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA

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FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT

T E R I’S TAK E

F E AT U R E S 1 4 HEALTH FOOD REVOLUTION

hat’s your favorite out of town restaurant?

Recently, we went to Big Bear for the weekend and when we browsed online prior to our trip, we just couldn't find a place that we wanted to go.

I started asking around and got recommendations for Chef Jason Stein’s fave, Stillwell's, and from Benjamin Epstein who had just discovered some fabulous flavor at The Himalayan. With those recommendations in hand, off we went. We didn’t get to go to either of those picks since six of us had to all agree, but we found a wonderful spot: Evergreen.

We’ve decided to save all our friends the trouble of searching for delicious dishes in California and to start a directory of out-oftown recommended spots to augment the comprehensive directory that we already have of your local hot spots.

Send us all your picks so we can pass along your recommendations and we’ll update you with any comments we collect regarding your favorites.

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THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS

Take an inside look at life with Celiac

Chef Carlito Jocson of Yard House chats

Disease and how True Food Kitchen has

with us about their new Gardein© menu

found success in offering gluten-free and

20

all-organic dishes

17

Content

FRONT OF THE HOUSE Herb Cocktails

CHEF MIRIAM RAMIREZ

21

BACK OF THE HOUSE How to grow your own restaurant garden

INSIDE 4 TIDBITS

22

Absinthe, Bitters, and Galliano...who

Find out who’s hot and new now

5

knew herbs could be this much fun?

KUDOS Acknowledging the hard work of this great industry

5

BEVERAGES

BOOKS All you ever needed to know about whisky in The World’s Best Whiskies by Dominic Roskrow

D E PA RT M E N T S 6 SPICE RACK 7 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 7 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 7 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT 8 BAKING RACK 9 FISH MARKET 1 2 SUR LE MENU

On The Cover

MORE THAN CHEFS

In this issue, Chef Miriam Ramirez of Quattro Caffé prepared her signature Fettuccine alla Pescatora. A twist on the typical fettuccine dish, Chef Ramirez’s version is al dente and topped with a flavorful mix of Mexican white shrimp, Alaskan sea scallops, tomatoes, white wine, and clam juice. Garlic, thyme, oregano, rosemary, and basil blend wonderfully together to give the dish a unique, herbal kick. The recipe is on page 13.

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s

}

GABRIEL CALIENDO

ADAM NAVIDI

KATIE AVERILL

JASON STEIN

Corporate Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Corporate Pastry Chef

Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

Adam Navidi Catering

chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

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INSIDE

TIDBITS

TIDBITS

i Casa Mexican Restaurant & Bar (above) in Costa Mesa recently underwent major renovations. The back room, known as the “Burro Room Bar,” was given a big makeover. This is the first time the restaurant has been renovated since it opened in 1972. The design of the new bar incorporates elements of the original bar and has added retro memorabilia, recognizing the restaurant’s heritage of multi-generations of family enjoying food and fun.

Taco Asylum, an eatery new to the CAMP opened in January with a menu that includes 10 selections of rather unusual tacos by Executive Chef Greg Daniels and Restaurant Manager Chef Cody Storts. Favorites include the Short Rib, Curried Paneer and Wild Mushroom Tacos and the accompanying house-made Chips. Taco Asylum is the newest creation from The Haven Collective. Partners Greg Daniels, Wil Dee and Ace Patel opened their first restaurant, Haven Gastropub, in September 2009. Plans for their second Haven Gastropub to open this year in Pasadena are well on their way.

The Partners play distinct roles at each restaurant with Wil Dee serving as Beverage Director and Greg Daniels as Executive Chef.

Zpizza is creating quite a stir with their Zpizza rusticas. Rusticas are fire-baked personal-sized pizzas that are made with organic wheat dough. “We wanted to create a healthier, artisan pizza with many unique flavor profiles inspired by global cuisines,” said Sid Fanarof, founder of Zpizza. “We used a thinner crust, infused ingredients authentic to dishes from India, Morocco, France, and, of course, Italy. Like all of our pizzas, rustica dough and sauces are organic; we offer gluten-free and vegan options and our pepperoni and sausage are additive and MSG-free.” A few examples of Zpizza rustica combinations are Chicken Curry and Yam, and Pear and Gorgonzola.

This year marks Wienerschnitzel’s 50th anniversary. To celebrate the milestone, Wienerschnitzel is bringing the “Der” back: “Der fun since ’61”. Wienershnitzel, founded by John Galardi, started as a single hot dog stand in Wilmington, California in 1961.

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

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INSIDE

SINCE 2000

KUDOS

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributing Editor Kelly O’Quinn Senior Editorial Assistant Lori Olsen Contributors Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Chef Debbi Dubbs Robert Johnson Chris Kern Chef Adam Navidi Chef Jason Stein Jillian Stokes

ART Wildfish Seafood Grill

Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

he Amuse Bouche Culinary Challenge, “Painting the Roses Red for the Queen of Our Hearts,” raised over $39,000 for Casa Teresa. The event was held at Hyatt Regency Irvine and included seven chefs competing for three different awards, silent auction, magicians, and live entertainment. Chef Arturo Briones of Wildfish Seafood Grille won People’s Choice and Judge’s Award.

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KUDOS

Chef Robert Opelle of Sundried Tomato won the Creativity and Appearance Award.

Casa Teresa, located in Orange, is a shelter for pregnant women over the age of 18.

Congratulations to The Cellar in Fullerton for being honored with the AAA Four Diamond award for the 21st consecutive year. “I am humbled by the award this year,” said Ryan Dudley, owner of The Cellar. “The past couple of years have been challenging and I am so proud of our staff for their tireless efforts and sacrifices. I also would like to acknowledge our loyal guests who have been so supportive and vocal. This award is only possible because of them.” Other Orange County restaurants that were recognized with this prestigious award are Napa Rose in Anaheim, The Californian in Huntington Beach, Studio in Laguna Beach, Palm Terrace Restaurant in Newport Beach, The First Cabin in Newport Beach, and The Ritz Restaurant & Garden in Newport Beach.

The Restaurant Management Facility Association selected Someone Cares Soup Kitchen in Costa Mesa for a $100,000 makeover. RFMA members donated the supplies, equipment and labor to remodel the kitchen and make major improvements to the facility of Someone Cares Soup Kitchen.

BOOKS

ttention all whisky lovers! Dominic Roskrow has created the ideal whisky potpourri, consisting of 750 whiskies from distilleries around the world. Not a big whisky fan? Perhaps you would be if you knew which one suited your taste buds best. Roskrow, a whisky magazine editor and whisky lover himself, has put together The World’s Best Whiskies. Organized by type and region, this book features interviews with all of the distillers whose whiskies are highlighted, making it easy to jump on the whisky wave. In keeping with our herb theme, many of the whisky profiles showcased in the book display an exciting array of herb flavors. After picking up Roskrow’s book, we challenge you not to pretend you’re in a 1950’s television sitcom drinking your whisky after a long day at work. Cheers to finding your flavor! To purchase this book and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.

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INSIDE

Easy Herb Growing Guidelines

by Chef Debbi Dubbs

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

EVEN IF YOU DON’T HAVE ROOM FOR A

ground. Herbs require 6-8 hours of sunlight a day

GARDEN, HERBS CAN BE GROWN IN containers

and an adequate water supply. They like neutral

on a sunny balcony, or tucked in among your

soil, 6.5 - 7 on the ph scale, and many, like

flowerbeds. If you plant them in your flowerbeds,

rosemary, lavender, and sage, are drought tolerant.

be careful that the herbs won’t receive any

Unless you have an herb like mint, angelica, or

pesticide

SENSATIONAL HERBS

otherwise

they’ll

be

lovage, which require moist soil, you should plant

unusable. Beyond their advantages in cooking,

all herbs in soil which drains well. Lightly fertilize

you can make your own herbal vinegars, tea bags,

herbs once a month with an organic fertilizer, but

or create your own herb blends. Herbs can also be

use half the recommended dosage. During the

I’M CERTAINLY NOT THE FIRST PERSON TO

easily dried and stored for later use; most are

winter season, every other month should be fine as

USE HERBS IN COCKTAIL CREATIONS, and it

easy to grow if you provide them with a few

some of the herbs will go dormant but will return

is currently a growing trend. When done right

basics. Window boxes or containers are great for

in the spring. Be careful not to over-fertilize, as

and in the correct application, herbs can

annual herb blends for those who have no garden

the essential oils in the herbs will be diluted.

transcend the kitchen and be useful in the bar.

space, but some perennial herbs need room to

However, when speaking of herbs in cocktails,

spread and should be planted in the ground.

Pruning, or deadheading*, is essential to keep many herbs from becoming too woody. Herbs are

I’m purposely excluding mint. The drink of the

Botanically speaking, herbs are non-woody

naturally healthy unless you over-fertilize, which

decade has got to be the mojito, and even before

plants, though many, such as thyme, rosemary,

can cause overgrowth and dilution. Let them flower

the mojito, the mint julep had its place in the

and lemon verbena, will eventually grow woody

to attract birds, bees, butterflies and other

world of cocktails. So, because these sweet

stems. Herbs are used for their leaves, flowers and

beneficial insects; they’ll all keep the pests in

herbal drinks are so played out, I’d like to talk

sometimes stems. Some good culinary herbs to

check quite nicely. Herbs are considered annual, bi-

about “savory” herbal cocktails.

grow are what I like to call “The Chef’s Collective”:

annual and perennial; check which you have and

thyme, parsley, chives, basil, oregano and

plant accordingly. Parsley, fennel, dill and some

Since I’m working on the spring bar and food menus at the Lazy Dog Café, this topic is fresh

rosemary. Consider growing herbs that you’ve

others are considered bi-annual and will produce

on my mind. My first herbal infused creation

never tried before, such as anise flavored tarragon

beautiful umbrella type flowers before they set

was a play on our Sangria program. I added a

or lemon verbena for its wonderful lemon scent

seed. If you let the seed blow around with the wind

White Peach Sangria and Red Pomegranate

and beautiful lacy white flowers. Borage produces

you will have ‘volunteer’ plants come up in the

Sangria to the menu several years ago. I thought

beautiful dark blue flowers that taste faintly of

garden the next season which you can leave where

with the success we had there we could add to

cucumber, but the plant can be very invasive, so

they are or dig up and move to a specific location.

the line, so I’ve been working on a Blackcurrant

consider planting it in a container.

I like to leave them if I can so that they attract those

Rose Sangria with a special ingredient: Fresh

Provide herbs with these basic growing

Lemon Verbena. Lemon Verbena is a really nice

conditions, whether in a container or in the

herb that has a sweet lemon aroma, savory undertones and very tender edible leaves. The Blackcurrant Lemon Verbena Rose Sangria is not as sweet as our white and not as dry as our red: perfect and just in time for summer on the patio. The second item I have been working on is a twist on the standard Vodka Tonic: a LemonThyme & Cucumber Vodka Tonic. Using fresh lemons, thyme, and cucumber that are muddled into Organic Cucumber Vodka, I’ve been able to create a really refreshing summertime version of the classic.

I hope that you get a chance to try these two herbal sensations one day at the Lazy Dog. Some make it on the menu and some get shelved to hopefully see the light on another day. Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the Vice President of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.

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overspray,

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

beneficial insects to other locations in the garden. *Deadheading: the removal of dead leaves and flowers on a regular basis.

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INSIDE

TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

by Chef Adam Navidi I COULD WRITE SOME NAMBY PAMBY ARTICLE

layers of clay in the heat of summer or watching a

ON SOME CULINARY YOGA I just created but

bunch of brats pick their noses driving a school bus!

never tried, or how best to incorporate greens into

We have our own meaning of HEALTH!

our rich, bacon-drenched dishes for those

H- HUNGER: It’s our first reason in survival and it

customers looking for a healthy option with all the

beats the scraps at the shelter. I remember

flavor, but that’s better suited for some other

working for a catering company that had mucho

trendy magazine. I mean, let’s face it, cooks and

business (long time ago) and we would go find

chefs have never been too concerned about

homeless folks on the street to help prep food

health; we are a breed unto ourselves who would

through the middle of the night!

rather take a smoke break than a shot of wheat

E- ENTERTAINMENT: With all the opposite sex,

grass! The only thing that’s nature to us is working,

there’s never a boring moment.

eating, drinking, and taking long stumbling walks

A- ALCOHOL: You can always find a comrade to

from some dingy bar to the closest couch at the end

wet your whistle with at shift’s end.

of the night! We don’t mind working the long,

L- LOVE: You love yourself too much to go to

grueling

school for some boring job.

hours

in

a

fast

paced,

cramped

environment fueled with all the toxins of smoke, oil,

T- TIME: There’s always time to eat, time to play,

gas, bad lighting and excess heat. It’s like everyday

and little time to sleep.

pulling up to work in a new car, clean and running

T- TASTE: You have to taste, it’s part of the job,

smooth, then we “clock in” and stall in the middle

right? I once had gout from having to taste every

of a florescent lit tunnel full of smoke and fumes

rich sauce on the line every couple hours. I think

behind some sauce-stained semi-truck of a kitchen

the doctor was jealous.

line. By the time we reach the end of our road/shift,

H- HUMOR: With all the drama, there’s always

the new car is a greased up spider monkey in a

something funny going on; talk about some freaky

space suit looking for some watering hole to quench

people.

his thirst. One beer or glass of wine is never enough,

I’ve always thought that someday there will be

and a twelve pack or two bottles is never too much!

this huge awakening in the industry, with

PRODUCE

PICK

OF THE MONTH

I used to spend my time off comparing burn

seasoned trained kitchen staff getting paid more

marks on my arms with my buddy, who works as a

than waitstaff, lawyers, and doctors due to the

welder, until I realized he was making a lot more

dangerous lifestyle we have to incur! It’s not

money than me and working a lot fewer hours!

healthy being a cook, but it sure is fun! Ain’t it?!

Honestly, we do this because we love it, and make

Chef Adam Navidi is the owner of Adam Navidi

THE YOUNGER SISTER OF THE FAMILIAR

no mistake, it beats digging a ditch through three

Catering Company.

DRY, MATURE GARLIC BULB, green garlic is

Green Garlic simply the typical garlic plant pulled from the ground before a bulb forms. The appearance

Cheese Pick of the Month Winchester Mild Gouda

of green garlic is similar to a large onion with leek-like tops, but its taste is undeniably associated with mature garlic. With a more mild flavor and rich, earthy aroma, green garlic is perfect in pureed soups with potatoes and cream or as a sauce or sauce element to accompany grilled veal, chicken, or pigeon.

FOR OVER 50 YEARS, WINCHESTER CHEESE COMPANY

When stewed, green garlic makes a wonderful

HAS BEEN PRODUCING FINE GOUDA using the Dutch

addition to soufflés or as a substitute for

Boere Kaas (meaning “home made on the farm”) method that

onions or leeks. Available from November

has been passed down through the generations to owner and

through June, the season for green garlic

operator Jules Wesselink. Winchester Cheese Company is a

matches with those cold-weather months

local dairy that uses only natural ingredients and fresh, raw

when hearty soups are a menu staple. The

milk from their own 500 Holstein cows to make their

Produce

specialized goudas. After being placed in a brine tank to form

relationships with small, local family farmers

Hunter to

has

developed

sustainable

close

a washed rind, each batch is aged for a minimum of 60 days. The award-winning Winchester Mild Gouda

committed

has a mild, nutty flavor wonderful for pairing with a mild wine or wheat beer and its semisoft texture makes

responsible production, and propagation and

agriculture,

it perfect as a fondue or spread. For more information on Winchester Mild Gouda or Winchester Cheese

promotion of fruit and vegetables with

Company, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

exceptional flavor.

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INSIDE

THE BAKING

RACK

by Chef Katie Averill

Canning Jam CANNING JAM IS COOL, AND WITH THE COMING

in the pot until your hot jam is ready. Pull the jars

should be complete suction. You may double check

OF SPRING (AND THEN SUMMER!) COMES A

out one at a time and fill them up, leaving ¼” at

by taking off the outer band and pulling on the lid.

WIDE VARIETY OF AMAZING FRUIT. Canned jam

the top. The reason for leaving them in the hot

If the lid resists, then the can is properly

lasts a year unopened, which means you can enjoy

water is so you don’t shock the glass jars with the

suctioned. At this point, you can completely seal

the fruits of your labor all year long. The fear of the

boiling jam, causing them to crack. Clean the rims

the jars tightly. Label and date your jam and keep

actual canning process kept me from saving my

of the jars with a clean cloth if any jam spills. Put

it on the shelf.

homemade jams for years, but once I took the time

the lids and bands on the jars and close them just

to learn how to can properly and safely, I found it

hand-tight.

was not that difficult. I will explain the simplest

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Place the jars back in the pot of hot water and

SAFETY NOTES: If any discoloration is noted when you open a jar, throw it out immediately. If you did

way to can for those of you who are willing to try.

add more water until the jars are covered by 2”.

not achieve complete suction in any of your jars,

All you need to buy is glass canning jars; the rest

Bring the water to a boil and boil them for 10

you can still refrigerate them and enjoy the jam for

of the equipment you can find in your kitchen.

minutes. Pull the jars out and keep them on the

up to a month.

Thoroughly wash all the jar parts, place them in a

counter for 24 hours (without tightening the lids

large stock pot, cover them with water and simmer

further). Push the center of the lids down to make

(180 degrees). Turn the stove off but leave the jars

sure there is no up and down movement; there

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

Comments welcome at kdcooks@aol.com.

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INSIDE

FISH

Market

by Chef Jason Stein

Santa Barbara Spot Prawns FEW THINGS EXCITE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA SEAFOOD LOVERS LIKE SPOT PRAWNS. With their pale orange shells and snow white flesh, there is nothing better than the “sweet as lobster” taste of these versatile prawns. They can be eaten raw in sushi and sashimi applications or simply sautéed or grilled. Their heads have a sweet taste for those daring to indulge on them tempura style or simmered in a miso broth. Spot prawns are caught from February to November, but the majority of the harvest is caught in the summer months, from June to July. Although they are typically caught locally off the Channel Islands, prawns are fished from the Bering Sea all the way to San Diego. They are available at most larger Asian specialty seafood markets, select Bristol Farms Markets and at Pearson’s Port in Newport Beach. Spot prawns are very expensive, ranging in price from 20 to 27 dollars per pound. It is important when purchased that they are vibrant and lively, as spot prawns that are lethargic or dead rapidly lose their sweet flavor and texture. This is due to an enzyme in the head that spreads through the body and starts to turn the flesh to mush. Everything is

Caribbean Spice Rubbed, Bone-In Filet Mignon — Chef Yves Fournier

edible on the whole head from the eyes to the shell, but it is important to remove the outer head shell, exposing the gills and head meat.

They are best eaten as sushi, with a small amount of wasabi, ponzu and sea salt on sushi rice. The prawn tail has an incredible sweetness and unique firm and fleshy chew to it, while the

Your holidays will be a cut above with White Apron professional quality meats!

(714) 255-8560

head is best suited tempura battered and fried.

Chef Jason Stein is a prominent Southern California Executive Chef.

Heritage of Quality • Performance Meats Culinary Expertise • Best of Class Service MARCH • APRIL 2011 | great taste

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TRENDS Great Taste: Why did Yard House decide to offer healthier food choices?

Carlito Jocson: We feel that our guests’ eating habits are changing. Although going out to eat is a treat, we have guests that eat out often and look for an alternative one to two times or more a week.

Yard House Goes Gardein

©

by Jillian Stoker

ow that the holidays have passed and the new year is upon us, it’s a great time to bounce back into a healthier lifestyle. You don’t have to sacrifice eating out just to stay healthy. More restaurants than ever are offering vegetarian, low fat, or low carb options, making it easy to go out and make healthful eating choices. Chef Carlito Jocson of Yard House was kind enough to answer a few questions about how Yard House offers healthier choices on their menu.

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

GT: What is the most popular substitution?

CJ: Currently, the Gardein products for beef or chicken.

GT: What is the most popular healthconscious dish?

CJ: Greek Salad, Spicy Tuna Roll, Ahi Poke Bowl appetizer, Angel hair Pasta.

GT: How difficult was it to switch the menu?

CJ: In regards to the Gardein, it is pretty simple. We simply substitute Chicken

menu items.

GT: How often do people tend to substitute?

CJ: All the time, guests who have certain diets or restrictions will always ask.

GT: Is it mostly because of allergies or is it a health conscious decision?

CJ: Both.

GT: Is it possible to modify any menu item to be healthier?

CJ: Yes. We have guests that request no butter, no cream, no bread, or no added salt.

GT: Do you provide nutritional information that guests can look at?

CJ: Upon request, we can print a nutritional breakdown of the menu item from our POS system. The nutritional info

“Guests looking for vegetarian options are excited to have a large offering, so that’s certainly a benefit.

Also, an increase in sales as more people prefer healthier menu items.” — Carlito Jocson Gardein for chicken, or Beef Gardein for ground beef and prepare it to the original recipe.

GT: What benefits have you seen?

CJ: Guests looking for vegetarian options are excited to have a large offering, so that’s certainly a benefit. Also, an increase in sales as more people prefer healthier

is also available on our website.

GT: Are there any drinks (alcoholic/ non-alcoholic) that are slim options?

Ex: Skinny Margarita?

CJ: Any of our alcoholic drinks can be made skinny with fresh lime juice, diet soda, or Fresca, and we also have a selection of light beers.

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TRENDS

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

Spring into Taste

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SUR LE MENU

Herbs hether in your garden at home, atop a beautifully presented dish, or ground up in a beverage, herbs are easily a part of our everyday lives. Put simply, an herb is a fragrant leaf that can be home-grown in a temperate climate zone or bought fresh, dried, or frozen from your local grocery store. Mint, basil, and oregano may be some of the most popular, but all herbs contribute greatly to any dish. Chef Miriam from Quattro Caffé artfully presents basil in her very own Fettuccine alla Pescatora. Our palates recognize and appreciate each herb if we pay attention enough to pick them out. So, don’t be afraid to add some herbs and spice things up Sur Le Menu!

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2nd Floor - Huntington Beach Bowie’s Pasta Fresca, roma and cherry tomatoes, roasted peppers, fresh basil, garlic, shallots, feta cheese, pine nuts, red onions, and penne pasta topped with parmesan cheese.

Chateaux Lounge - Irvine Cajun Ahi Tuna Salad, Napa cabbage, carrots, mushroom, mint, basil, and sesame dressing.

Utopia Restaurant - Long Beach Cajun Scallops, sautéed scallops, mushrooms, green onions and garlic, in a Cajun rosemary cream sauce, served with mashed potatoes.

Andreis Restaurant - Irvine Charcuterie Plate, La Quercia prosciutto, Knight sopressata, green olive duck terrine, ham and parsley terrine, pickled vegetables, cornichons, whole grain mustard, mini-baguette.

Prime Cut Cafe - Orange Classic Shrimp Cocktail, six large wild shrimp, fresh dill, lemon zest, and tomato-horseradish sauce.

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

The Ramos House Cafe - San Juan Capistrano Crawfish Salad Sandwich, with smoked bacon and basil.

Rothschild’s Restaurant - Corona del Mar Filet Mignon au Poivre, center cut filet encrusted with mixed peppercorn, served in brandy cream sauce with shallots and thyme.

Ponte Winery - Temecula Grilled Loch Duart Salmon, grilled salmon, potato gnocchi, fresh peas, and mint pesto.

Infusion - Ladera Ranch Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb, goat cheese mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus, and minted pan jus.

Avanti Cafe - Costa Mesa Kick A$% Bloody Mary (on the rocks), organic tomatoes, horseradish, serrano chili, onion, garlic, lemon oregano and cumin.

Sage Restaurant - Newport Beach Killer Fish Tacos, fennel and radish salad with arugula, red onion, cilantro, Italian

parsley, crispy fried potato sticks, black beans, and corn relish.

Anaheim White House Restaurant Anaheim Lumache di Bourgogne, “Our French Touch” Bourgogne escargot baked with garlic & herbs in a Pernod flambé.

Ky’a Bistro - Laguna Beach Mojitos, Bacardi Silver, fresh mint and lime, muddled and chilled to refreshing perfection.

Memphis Cafe - Costa Mesa Pan Roasted French Cut Chicken Breast, haricot vert, mashed potato pancakes, bbq’d corn, lemon thyme sauce.

Chaparosa Grill - Various Locations Spinach & Cranberry Salad, baby spinach tossed in citrus mint dressing and topped with dried cranberries, crumbled feta cheese and toasted almonds.

Royal Thai Cuisine - Various Locations Summer Roll Appetizer, soft fresh roll stuffed with tofu, fresh greens and Thai basil.

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SUR LE MENU

COVER RECIPE

SERVES 1

Fettuccine alla Pescatora 7 oz

Fettuccine

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.

4

Alaskan Sea Scallops U10

Once the water is to a rolling boil add pasta

2 oz

Olive Oil

and cook for 6-7 minutes. The pasta should

3

Mexican white shrimp 16/20

be al dente.

1t

Garlic - minced

Dust each side of the scallops with salt and

1/2 t

Thyme - chopped

pepper. Heat a sautĂŠ pan, when hot add

1/2 t

Oregano - chopped

olive oil then place scallops in pan, cook for

1/2 t

Rosemary - chopped

approximately 2 minutes on each side. Add

2 oz

White wine

shrimp, garlic, thyme, oregano, rosemary,

3 oz

Clam Juice

salt and pepper, white wine and clam juice.

3 oz

Tomato - chopped

Let simmer for 5 minutes. Add tomatoes,

1 oz

Basil - chiffonade

basil and butter and stir.

1 oz

Butter Salt and pepper

Serve over the Fettuccine and garnish with basil.

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

by Kelly O’Quinn

A

s of January 1, 2011, California Legislation passed a law that bans all transfats from the menu at all California restaurants.

California, which became the first state to partially ban trans-fats in 2008, is a leader in the health revolution. Nearly everywhere you go to eat, you’ll see calorie counts, vegetarian, and gluten-free options on menus, even at those thought of as non-healthy restaurants. Not only has the health craze hit already existing chains, new restaurants are popping up whose sole focus is on healthy, organic, sustainable, and delicious dishes.

Establishments such as Seasons 52, True Food Kitchen, and 118 Degrees are finding huge success in the relatively small gourmet health food niche.

Along with the general switch of focus to healthful and organic foods, there has been a huge expansion of gluten-free items. In the past, gluten-free foods have been extremely difficult to find and largely ignored by anyone without a gluten aversion. Gluten, which is a protein composite used in the processing of wheat, barley, and rye, is present in multiple food staples, such as pasta, grain, cereal, many processed foods, and sometimes oats.

The proliferance of gluten in modern food makes it extremely difficult for people with Celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder of the small intestine which prevents the body from processing gluten, and others with glutenaversions to find acceptable foods, especially when eating out. People with gluten-aversion or Celiac disease have to choose very carefully where they eat and often decide to simply eat in or at a friend’s house instead.

Jim Collins, a Southern California resident living with Celiac disease and type 1 diabetes, often decides to eat at home instead of going out because it is easier and quicker to find gluten-free options. “The only way to find out if a restaurant has gluten-free items is to go out and ask, check their websites, or call the Illustration by Lisa Brink

corporate offices,” said Jim, who finds it very challenging to find restaurants where he doesn’t have to worry about whether or not their dishes include gluten. When Jim does decide to go out to a restaurant, he has to go through the trouble of first finding out if the establishment offers gluten-free items, and then brings his own back-up meal just in case.

As you can imagine, this adds an unnecessary level of stress to what should be a fun, relaxing outing. Isn’t the point of eating out to enjoy great food with good company and let the restaurant take care of everything?

With one out of every ten people in the United States suffering from some degree of gluten-aversion and many more people cutting gluten out of their diet in an effort to lose weight and improve their health, it’s vital that restaurants consider offering gluten-free dishes. And not only from the consumer standpoint. “If somebody is gluten-intolerant, they get to decide where they go eat, so that brings in the family and friends, expanding the amount of people who try your restaurant,” testifies Chef Michael Stebner, Executive Chef of True Food Kitchen.

True Food Kitchen, which has locations in Southern California and Arizona, features a menu based on Dr. Weil’s Anti-Inflammatory Food Pyramid. The main proponents of Dr. Weil’s food pyramid are fruits, veggies, legumes, healthy fats, and seafood, causing many of their dishes to be healthy by default.

“For a long time, Dr. Weil has said that good tasting food can be healthy. This is kind of his incarnation of that philosophy that you can get great tasting food that can be good for you,” says Chef Stebner. True Food Kitchen’s menu was originally just focused on good food with healthy ingredients, but soon Chef Stebner realized that their most popular dishes were either vegetarian or gluten-free. “It’s driven by the consumer; the consumer wants glutenfree, more veggies, etc., and we’re just giving them what they’re asking for. As the menu evolves, we incorporate requests more and give more interesting options,” Chef Stebner says of the evolution of True Food Kitchen’s menu.

Having a menu that changes with the seasons presents some unique planning obstacles. His goal is to use locally produced ingredients as much as possible, not only to support local growers, but because it is cheaper and easier to buy ingredients that are in season for the area you’re cooking in. “Go to the market. If there are fava beans, they go on the menu. Don’t put it on the menu unless it’s available. In season costs less and tastes better. This gives our guests fresh food at more reasonable prices,” he explains. While it is more difficult to plan a menu based on the changing growing seasons, Chef Stebner sees it as an advantage. It allows him to present his customers with the freshest ingredients at lower prices, giving them a great dining experience.

And the customers are happy about it, too! The best compliment to Chef Stebner is when people walk out the door saying they feel better than when they walked in. It’s so rare that you leave a restaurant after a large meal feeling good about yourself, and Chef Stebner has managed to provide his customers that experience. Since customers don’t feel guilty after eating at True Food Kitchen, they’ll opt more frequently for a dessert or drinks. “We sell a ton of desserts because people feel good enough to eat one,” says Stebner.

With happy customers and a happy chef, True Food Kitchen has become the most successful of the Fox Restaurant concepts.

True Food’s locations continually bring in a multitude of customers without impeding upon the customer base of their neighboring restaurants. Because of their unique menu and environment, True Food maintains a customer base separate from that of other restaurants. “It’s a different mindset of people who eat at True Food than at a steakhouse or other restaurant. No competition means huge success,” explains Chef Stebner. With plans to expand to major markets across the U.S., it seems that True Food Kitchen has hit the sweet spot of delicious and healthy that we have been waiting for.

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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

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Photo credit: Bleu Cotton Photography, Inc.

by Robert Johnson

Chef Miriam Ramirez

I

ntuition is a remarkable thing. It can protect someone from harm, help find the keys to the car, or simply be a gift that is shared with others. Chef Miriam Ramirez of Quattro Caffé at South Coast Plaza is considered by her peers to be a very intuitive and professional person. She learned how to cook at an early age from her mother in her home land of Mexico. The more time she spent in the kitchen, the more enamored she became, cooking and seeing satisfaction on the faces of those she served. Her innate connection with food and her love of people made the restaurant business an ideal place for Chef Ramirez to be. With her mind made up to work in a restaurant, she set out for better opportunities in the United States. Her intuition helped guide her to Armani Café, which was later to become Quattro Caffé.

Chef Miriam began her career as a waitress and slowly worked her way into the kitchen to begin the ubiquitous task of prepping food. Her attention to detail, consistency, and the great care she took in Continued on page 18

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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

M A K E C O N TA C T

Quattro Caffé 3333 BRISTOL ST. #1201 COSTA MESA, CA 92626 WWW.QUATTROCAFFE.COM RESTAURANT HOURS: 11:00 AM – 9:00 PM AVERAGE COVER FOR ONE GUEST, INCLUDING BEVERAGE? Lunch: $26.50 Dinner: $33.50

Chef Miriam Ramirez AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK: 65 IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? My schooling prepared me for a position in the business world, so I would most likely be an executive secretary.

FAVORITE KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL: Tongs.

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE: Mixer – Hobart.

FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE: All-Clad.

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: Garlic.

BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE KITCHEN: That it is an easy job…most people don’t realize the 3 or 4 hours of prep time required before the restaurant even opens and it’s a challenge to keep the menu current and fresh.

SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE: Linguine Vongole.

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Prosciutto CULINARY HERO: Mario Batali YEARS IN BUSINESS: BOH: 15 WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE: Fresh, Highest Quality, Consistent

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2011

preparing food led her quickly to becoming a cook. As luck, or her good intuition, would have it, she happened to have begun her budding career as a cook when some authentic Italian chefs were brought into Armani to help get the restaurant going.

These chefs showed all of the cooks how to prepare the dishes to recipe and how to make them delicious and consistent. Chef Miriam took full advantage of the few weeks the

Italian cooking to prepare dishes as fresh and delicate as possible. She wants her patrons to recognize the quality and flavor of the food, and to feel content when they leave. Chef Miriam believes that without fresh, delicate dishes, she would not be able to achieve this goal.

Her intuition inside the kitchen is as remarkable as her ability to be in the right place at the right time. When given a recipe,

“My first food-related memory was watching my mother prepare wonderful dishes for the family.

Since I enjoy working with people and I love food, the restaurant industry was a natural choice.” — Miriam Ramirez Italian chefs spent at the restaurant; for her it was like going to culinary school. She already had the knack for cooking, she just needed to be shown proper techniques. The guest chefs not only started the restaurant, but they also kick-started Chef Miriam’s career.

Chef Ramirez immediately recognized that Italian cooking was not that much different than her native Mexican style of cooking. Each style utilizes similar ingredients: tomatoes, garlic (Miriam’s favorite ingredient), peppers, onions, and fresh herbs, a fact which worked very much to her advantage. She began to incorporate many ideas from her Mexican heritage into her

Chef Ramirez immediately recognizes the ingredients in the dish and knows instantly how to better prepare it in order for the dish to be more light and flavorful. During her ten years at Quattro Caffé, Chef Miriam has built a crew of cooks in her kitchen who share her ideals as a chef. Her kitchen staff, some 15 or so workers, is comprised mostly of women, but not because she has anything against men.

Chef Miriam thinks men are great line cooks because they can grind out running the line on a day-to-day basis, but she prefers women in the kitchen because they have a more delicate hand when it comes to seasoning and a better eye for plating. As a male and self-proclaimed

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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

Frutti di Mare Serves 1 COURT BOUILLON 8C Water 2T Kosher salt 1C White wine - dry 1T Peppercorn - whole 1C Lemon Juice 1/2 Lemon 5 Bay leaves 1 Onion - small white 1t Oregano - dry

What three words best describe your culinary style?

FRESH, HIGHEST QUALITY, CONSISTENT foodie, I began to protest. Just as I began my objection, several plates of food were placed before me; one elegantly plated dish after another. I sampled each, and then I sampled them again. Somehow I forgot what it was I had disagreed with; men, apparently, are easily distracted with food.

The next time you find yourself at South

Coast Plaza and a pang of hunger sets in, let your nose and intuition guide you to the Quattro CaffĂŠ. The restaurant is busiest during the day and especially during the weekend, so be sure to plan accordingly. The intuitive mastermind, Chef Miriam, will surely be there creating subtle, fresh dishes with a great deal of feminine flair.

In a large pot, add water then other ingredients and bring to a boil.

LEMON DRESSING 3T Lemon juice - freshly squeezed 5T Olive oil - extra virgin Pinch Salt and Pepper In a small mixing bowl, whisk the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while whisking until it is completely incorporated. Set aside.

FRUTTI DI MARE 5 oz Calamari 5 oz Shrimp - white Mexican 51/60 5 oz Scallops - baby 2T Roma Tomato - diced 2T Carrots - Julienne 1T Parsley - chopped 2T Lemon dressing 1 oz Organic baby mixed greens Place the calamari inside a wire basket and lower into the court bouillon for 5 minutes.

Remove the basket of calamari and submerge in an ice water bath for a few minutes. Drain and set aside. Repeat for the shrimp for 3 minutes of cooking time and set aside. Repeat the process for the scallops with 3 minutes of cooking time as well. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, add the chilled seafood, carrots, parsley and tomatoes. Mix gently together and add lemon dressing to taste. Plate the organic baby mixed greens and place your frutti di mare mixture on top.

Pepper to taste.

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THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE CILANTRO

Herb Cocktails

by Jillian Stoker

CITRUSY, BITING TANG, ZESTY El Torito, Various Locations PINEAPPLE-CILANTRO CADILLAC MARGARITA 1800 Reposado Tequila, agave nectar, cilantro, pineapple, and a side shot of Grand Marnier.

MINT CHILLING, CRISP, CLEAN, COOL Babouch Moroccan Restaurant, San Pedro FROZEN MINT MARGARITA Patron Silver Tequila, Grand Marnier, crême de menthe, sweet and sour, fresh mint and lime.

ROSEMARY PINEY FLAVOR, TEA-LIKE AROMA La Grande Orange Café, Pasadena SHAKIN’ LEMONADE Grey Goose, lemonade and fresh rosemary.

GINGER SLIGHTLY BITING, HOT NOTE, WOODY The Observation Bar in the Queen Mary, Long Beach GINGERSNAP Absolut Ginger Vodka, Canton Ginger Liqueur, fresh squeezed lemon juice and ginger ale. Garnished with a rosemary sprig.

SAGE FRAGRANT AROMA, ASTRINGENT BUT

Kids want to be in on the fun, too! Here are some friendly “mocktails” that make kids feel extra special.

rinks should be inventive and fun, but most of all they should be tasty! Here are some drinks that feature a new star of the show, HERBS!

D BASIL

SWEET, HERBAL BOUQUET McKenna’s on the Bay, Long Beach SWEET SPICE Veev Açai Liqueur, jalapeño, basil, lemon juice and soda.

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VIRGIN CHERRY FIZZY Mix or blend together: - Cherry juice; either fresh or from concentrate - Ginger ale Add ice and mix or blend to the consistency you desire. Top with a dash of whipped cream and a fresh cherry.

FUZZYLESS FUZZY NAVEL Combine together or blend together: - Peach nectar or fresh peaches - Orange juice - Pineapple juice - A dash of lemon juice - A dash of grenadine for taste Top with a dash of whipped cream and a fresh wedge of peach.

WARM FLAVOR 6ix Park Grill, Irvine GINGER PEACH CAIPIRINHA Leblon, Canton Ginger Liqueur, Peach Schnapps, lemon, sugar and sage.

TARRAGON SLIGHTLY BITTERSWEET FLAVOR French 75, Laguna Beach RIVIERA Absolut infused with vanilla, grapefruit, tarragon, and a splash of grapefruit juice.

THYME SUBTLE, SLIGHTLY MINTY Tantalum, Long Beach OCEANA Beefeater London Gin, simple syrup, thyme and farm fresh raspberries.

ELDERFLOWER FLOWER AND FRUIT AROMA, SIMILAR TO LYCHEE AND PEARS Parkers’ Lighthouse, Long Beach BUTTERFLY MARTINI Grey Goose le Citron, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, white cranberry juice, sweet and sour, basil and mint.

Matador Cantina, Fullerton ELDERFLOWER PEAR RICKEY Absolut Pear, Elderflower Liqueur and freshly squeezed lime juice.

SUMMERTIME VIRGIN SANGRIA Mix together: - Red cranberry juice - Sugar or honey - Apple juice Add ice and mix together or blend to the consistency you prefer. Top with maraschino cherries.

MISTY ORANGE SLUSH (Serves 8) - Pour two cups of orange juice into ice cube trays and allow to freeze.

- Once frozen, take half the cubes and place them in a blender with two cups of orange juice and a bit of lime juice.

- Pour the contents into a large pitcher and repeat the steps above with the other half of the frozen orange juice cubes.

- Add cold ginger ale to completed mixture and stir well.

- Add a slice of kiwi or a slice of orange as a garnish and serve.

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THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE ne of the biggest new trends, according to the National Restaurant Association® “What’s Hot in 2011” survey of over 1,500 chefs, is restaurant menus featuring locally grown produce. Consumers are beginning to care more and more about where their food is coming from. Some restaurants are taking matters into their own hands by growing their own herb and vegetable gardens onsite. An additional option for restaurants that don’t have the means to grow their own gardens but still want that just-picked, fresh taste is Harvest to Home.

Harvest to Home delivers organic

O

Harvest to Home

by Lori Olsen

it’s exactly what it sounds like. You don’t have to lift a finger. The service includes garden cleaning, trimming and pruning leaves, harvesting your vegetables and herbs, and providing an organic spray for pests. There are several restaurants in the area that are taking advantage of what Harvest to Home has to offer, including: Cucina Alessa in Huntington Beach and Laguna Beach, The Cottage in Laguna Beach, Coyote Grill in South Laguna, Crispin’s Eatery in San Clemente, Good to Go Restaurant in Huntington Beach, Cannery Restaurant in Newport Beach, and 118 Degrees in Costa Mesa.

Coyote Grill’s General Manager, Desiree

“The parsley we use to garnish our Oyster Platters or chop it to garnish pretty much every plate that goes out. The mint we use for the bar drinks: Mojitos and Greyhounds with Mint.” vegetable and herb gardens straight to you.

The website’s tagline says it all: “No Labor, No Fertilizing, No Watering, NO GREEN THUMB NECESSARY!” Laguna native Mike Saraylian is the creator of these selfsustaining garden boxes, and couldn’t be happier to provide homegrown, organic herbs and vegetables to those who may not have the time or resources to grow their own garden.

All a restaurant has to do is select which herbs and vegetables they want in their new garden, and then it’s delivered directly to them. Harvest to Home offers their signature garden box service as well as their raised garden bed service. A signature maintenance service is also offered, and

Gomez said they have been using Harvest to Home for about a year. When I asked what they specifically use their garden box for, Gomez said, “The parsley we use to garnish our Oyster Platters or chop to garnish pretty much every plate that goes out. The mint we use for the bar drinks: Mojitos and Greyhounds with Mint.”

And you certainly don’t have to own a restaurant to take advantage of this unique service. According to Saraylian, residential customers are actually their main business, and they have customers that have been loyal since day one. Business has been going well and Saraylian hopes that they will continue to grow in 2011.

Visit www.harvesttohome.com.

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• cyndi@creativetouchinc.com MARCH • APRIL 2011 | great taste

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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Let’s Spirit for the Herbs!

by Chris Kern Chris Kern is the founder of ForgottenGrapes.com and the creator and host of Sunday Night Chef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com)

sk any casual drinker to name the key ingredient in most spirits, and you’ll hear potatoes, corn, wheat, barley, juniper berries, or maybe even peat moss.

But those barely cover a quarter of the shelf. The real workhorses are herbs and spices, which, when distilled with neutral spirits, produce the countless, colorful liquors and liqueurs that line the rail of most bars. Herb-based liquors can be divided into two categories: anise (licorice)-flavored and non-anise-flavored, with more crossover than you’d think; 27 (Benédictine), 56 (Jägermeister), or even 130 (Chartreuse) different herbs can be used to produce one liqueur.

Curious? Grab those leftover bottles from the liquor cabinet and let’s delve into three very different herb-based spirits and the classic cocktails they produce:

A

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ABSINTHE/HERBSAINT The Green Faerie: banned for years throughout the west, but making a comeback among today’s adventurous imbibers. Absinthe is a high proof (up to 74% ABV) spirit derived from wormwood (not rotting, invertebrate-infested bark, but rather a leafy green herb with alleged hallucinogenic properties) with a bright green color and the taste of anise.

Traditional absinthe service calls for distilled water poured over a sugar cube on the back of a spoon into the absinthe, diluting the alcohol and muddying the color. Herbsaint, in contrast, contains no wormwood but was originally sold as “Legendre Absinthe” until the feds kiboshed absinthe post-Prohibition.

Despite the name change, this Louisianabased spirit remains a key component in America’s oldest-known cocktail, the Sazerac: Chill an old-fashioned glass. Coat glass with Herbsaint, then discard liquor.

Muddle a sugar cube and six dashes of Peychaud’s bitters in glass. Fill with 4 oz. rye whiskey. Twist a lemon peel over glass and rub rim with it.

BITTERS The difference between spirits and liqueurs? Liqueurs have added sugar to sweeten them. Bitters? Definitely no sugar added. These spirits get their eponymous

taste from the gentian herb and come in two categories – digestive bitters (Campari, Pimms, Suze), often served neat or with a mixer, and cocktail bitters (Angostura, Peychaud’s), which can top 45% ABV and are dashed into drinks. One classic bitters cocktail is the Manhattan, but for more bitters flavor, try our Lower Manhattan variation: Fill an old-fashioned glass with 2-3 large ice cubes. Coat rocks completely with bitters. Add a splash of sweet vermouth and fill with 4 oz. rye or bourbon. Garnish with lemon twist and cherry.

GALLIANO Rarely is a tall, thin blonde ignored at a bar, but such is the case with Galliano, which hardly ever moves from its perch on the shelf. Anise-based but with a top-note of vanilla, Galliano was invented in Italy in 1896 with a golden color (via tartrazine dye) inspired by the gold rushes of the 1890s. Though delicious on the rocks, it’s more often used as a float, specifically in a Harvey Wallbanger: In a Collins glass, combine 3 parts vodka with 6 parts orange juice over ice and stir. Float 1 oz. Galliano on top.

Garnish with an orange slice and cherry.

In liquor, like in cooking, herbs make everything better. So don’t be afraid. Open up and pour those forgotten herb-based spirits today!

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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

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