FAVORING CREATIVITY 10 MAY • JUNE 2011
2011 TRENDS 14
WINES TO WED BY 22
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FROM THE EDITOR
T E R I’S TAK E
CONTENT THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS
F E AT U R E S 1 4 WEDDING TREND RUNDOWN
Fresh ideas to liven up any wedding.
Look ahead. What takes the cake this 2011 wedding season? Transform your
17 esilience, Courage and Genuine Chutzpah. That’s what you, the local restaurant industry all have in common. On our website we list all the wonderful new local restaurants that are opening, just opened and we also celebrate some other local restaurant anniversaries that have been around for awhile — some up to 50+ years. Opening Soon is just amazing. Chefs opening for the first time, well known local groups expanding, new chains and quick casual concepts coming to town. The list is endless and for us, this means more jobs, more dining options for the odd day off and yes, more competition. Got to keep your skill set honed. We’ve got some fun local celebrations of the industry coming. So, stay tuned! Get HIP and have some fun this summer.
MORE THAN CHEFS
R
Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s
}
20
Florist Christa Falk offers advice abut hot
CHEF ROB WILSON
wedding decor.
21
BACK OF THE HOUSE Perfectly pairing wine and chocolate.
22
BEVERAGES Wines to fit your wedding budget.
Find out who’s hot and new now.
THE BEET Acknowledging the Japan disaster relief efforts of our brothers and sisters in the industry.
5
FRONT OF THE HOUSE
restaurant into a wedding hot spot.
INSIDE 4 THE BEET 5
Content
BOOKS Learn about wine tasting and pairing from Mina Group Sommelier Rajat Parr in Secrets of the Sommeliers.
D E PA RT M E N T S 6 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT 7 SPICE RACK 8 BAKING RACK 1 2 SUR LE MENU
On The Cover Duck lovers unite! For this issue, Chef Rob Wilson of The Montage Laguna Beach prepared his delectable Crispy Skin Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast with Spiced Carrot Purée. Perfect for the spring, this dish features savory duck breast, carrots, and a variety of herbs and spices. Chef Rob’s recipe is straightforward and easy to prepare, with an impressive taste and presentation, making it the perfect candidate for date night or a family get together. This issue’s Sur Le Menu features duck dishes from a variety of ethnic cuisines. Look for these as well as Chef Rob’s recipe on page 13. Photo by Michael Rutt.
GABRIEL CALIENDO
ADAM NAVIDI
KATIE AVERILL
Corporate Executive Chef
Executive Chef
Corporate Pastry Chef
Lazy Dog Cafe
Adam Navidi Catering
chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as
our Culinary Advisors.
MAY • JUNE 2011 | great taste
3
INSIDE
THE
BEET
range Hill remodeled their bar (above) into a modern lounge area with a sophisticated look and feel incorporating plush lounge furniture, Murano orange chandeliers, granite countertops, fireplace, orange grand piano with live entertainment and a new bar menu with small plate appetizers, signature cocktails and a new Happy Hour menu served from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday-Friday. The “O Bar” has splashes of orange throughout the decor, including a custom lacquered orange piano and handmade pillows. Orange Hill Restaurant’s “O Bar” is open Sunday-Thursday from 4:30 to 10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday from 4:30 to 11 p.m. “O Bar” is also available for private parties. Presenting more than 30+ tequilas, the “Burro Room” Bar at Mi Casa Mexican Restaurant has announced the addition of Tequila Flights to their menu. The new flights feature Blanco, Reposado, and Anejo and give customers the opportunity to sample multiple tequilas from the Patron, Partida, Cazadores, and Herradura line. The three 1oz samples are served in a stylish tasting stand for $14.50. “Tequila is no longer just the shot you get to go with your beer,” said Ryan Moore, Owner of Mi Casa Costa Mesa. “In fact, Tequila is a complex and complicated spirit and I introduced Tequila Flights as a way to allow our guests to experience the array of flavors, aromas, and textures from different aging styles and areas of Mexico.” Mi Casa also offers all the fine tequilas as a base for their “famous, award-winning” handcrafted margarita made with a “secret margarita mix” consisting of simple, fresh ingredients with one-of-a kind taste that locals have grown to love since 1972.
O
4
www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2011
INSIDE
THE
SINCE 2000
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributing Editor Kelly O’Quinn Contributors Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Allison Clark Marian Jansen op de Haar Chris Kern Lauren Nakamura Chef Adam Navidi Jillian Stoker
ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net
ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net
BOOKS
pproximately 250 locals visited Bluefin on March 27 to help raise more than $24,000 for the American Red Cross Japanese Disaster Relief Fund. The popular restaurant hosted an allyou-can-eat buffet brunch for a minimum $50 donation. “We are thrilled with the response we received and are overwhelmed that we were able to raise $24,000,” said Ted Lee, a partner in Bluefin. Monday, March 28th, 50% of sales from all 6 Beach Pit BBQ locations, a total of $5,400, was donated to locally operated charities to aid the earthquake and tsunami victims in Sendai, Japan. Saddleback Church’s PEACE Relief Mission Program matched Beach Pit BBQ’s contribution to the cause, making a grand total of $10,800. Tim DeCinces, owner of Beach Pit BBQ and former professional baseball player, is working with the Japanese professional baseball team, Rakuten Eagles of Sendai Japan, to give the money directly to their community. Haven Gastropub raised more than $16,000 during a one-day fundraiser at the restaurant. During the event, Haven owners donated 100% of profits to a relief fund set up through Mercy Corps to help families affected by the disaster. “The entire Haven Gastropub team is deeply committed to service and this fundraiser for those affected by the tragic events in
A
BEET Japan was an extension of that,” commented Executive Chef Greg Daniels. “We will continue to support relief efforts in Japan through Mercy Corps and we encourage those who would like to join us to visit our fundraising page and donate to the relief efforts,” added Daniels. www.mercycorps.org/fundraising/havengast ropub. Spearheaded by Bay Area chef, writer and teacher Samin Nosrat, National Bake Sale for Japan events were held in Los Angeles on April 2nd as part of a simultaneous national bake sale event. At least 6 area bakeries and restaurants, including Black Cat Bakery, Forage, Chefs Center of California, Angeli, and Akasha, served as host sites. 100% of money raised went to Peace Winds Japan, the largest Japanese Disaster and Emergency Response Non-Government Organization, which will use the funds for ground relief efforts. Executive Chef Sean Nemetz of The Cellar in Fullerton prepared a special 4course menu inspired by the rich culinary history of Japan. When patrons ordered this special menu, The Cellar donated $10 to the Red Cross relief efforts. Through the end of March, more than 1,200 Panda Express locations and more than 1,800 associates nationwide donated funds to the American Red Cross and Tzu Chi Foundation. Panda Express matched 100% of the proceeds.
BOOKS
Merlot or Pinot Noir? Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio? In Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink like the World’s Top Wine Professionals, authors Rajat Parr, the wine director of the Mina Group, and Jordan MacKay, author of Passion for Pinot and the wine & spirits editor of San Francisco magazine, reveal how to think like a sommelier. Secrets of the Sommeliers is an entertaining, as well as educational, read. Among the table of contents are chapter titles such as Pairing Wine with Food, The Wine List, and Buying and Storing Wine, to name a few. Insider tips and key insights to remember when selecting wine are scattered alongside descriptions of highly valued vinos. Parr and MacKay saturate each page with sommelier advice and wine wisdom from personal experience and favorites of their own. To purchase this book and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.
M
MAY • JUNE 2011 | great taste
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INSIDE
TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT
PRODUCE
PICK
OF THE MONTH
Rhubarb
by Chef Adam Navidi I’M SO BUSY PLANTING SEEDS OF CHANGE
magazine is here for us as chefs, cooks, restaurant
THAT I’M DEAF TO THE WEDDING BELLS OF
owners and staff to share our thoughts and ideas
SPRING! Maybe it’s because I have compost up to
with each other and develop a better culinary
my ears and on my brain that I can’t smell the
community.
slightest scent of roses! You see, we normally have
On another note…two applauds/air-high-fives
a few spring weddings planned by now; this year,
go out this month. First, to Chef Amar Santana
however, we are spending more time finalizing
who was then with Charlie Palmer for pulling out
plans on our new restaurant, a job in and of itself,
his sawzall and giving us a head-to-tail pig
and playing in the garden than we are marketing
demonstration at Chef James Chavez's DoubleTree
to our catering clientele! Go figure, we don’t have
Hotel, as well as the other chefs who participated
any resi’s, and the only friends I have who are
in the pig out! Also to Patrick Glennon ("Paddy")
getting married this year are either going to the
from Santa Monica Seafood for putting together
courthouse, eloping out of the country, or looking
the “Culinary Liberation Front” sustainable
to tie the knot at a local resort with all the fixings!
seafood event at Scott's Seafood with Host Chef
Normally my article is worked and reworked
Michael Doctulero and twelve other chefs who
until it resembles something close to the monthly
share their passion! Awesome event guys!! Thanks
theme!
to everyone involved!!!
This month my article is going to the trash, where
I look forward to being able to share with all of
the worms reign supreme and the beneficial bacteria
you what methods or programs work at my new
bask in their own micro-system! My question: How
place over the coming years! The one thing I’ve
many restaurant kitchens in OC use their food
learned lately is that there is not much information
scraps for something other than clogging floor drains
out there for chefs looking to open restaurants. I’ve
or filling trash bins? I’m talking compost, either in
had the hardest time researching everything, from
the form of compost or vermicompost! Now I know
potential investor options to city/county codes and
that some of you guys have been doing this for years
regulations to health benefits for the staff! It's
and I applaud you! I’ve also heard that a couple
crazy; I guess once you think you’ve reached the
places have special systems/machines in place to
bottom of the barrel, another creature sneaks
handle the daily chore of mixing! If your place has a
through the cracks! C’est La Vie!!
method that works and you would like to share with
Award-Winning Executive Chef Adam Navidi
the rest of us Great Taste readers, then please send
caters O.C. premier parties and many Newport
RHUBARB, WHICH IS TYPICALLY USED IN
us an email at info@great-taste.net. We will give you
Coast philanthropic events. For more info and to
PIE FILLINGS OR AS A JAM, is available
full props and introduce you at the next mixer. This
reach him, visit www.chefadamnavidi.com.
nearly year round. This perennial, known for its herbaceous qualities and long, fleshy stems, has a very tart taste. Although its leaves are toxic, the stalk of the Rhubarb is safe for consumption. Stalks are typically covered in sugar and drizzled with lemon juice before macerating for 24 hours at room temperature. This process helps the Rhubarb
Cheese Pick of the Month Capriole Chantal Aperitif
release its juices so it can later be used to give jam or pie filling a better consistency.
MADE BY HAND USING ONLY THE MILK OF THEIR OWN
Rhubarb is usually considered to be a
HERD, Capriole Farm’s Chantal Aperitif is a delectable fresh
vegetable, but in 1947, a New York court
goat cheese about the size of a thimble. Although the French
ruled that since it is used as a fruit, it would
variation of this cheese is often sprinkled with ash, herbs, and
be counted as a fruit for tax purposes. Our
various mold growth and served on a toothpick, Capriole ships
Editor's favorite use of Rhubarb is in Rhubarb
theirs fresh, packaged in layers in a wooden cheese crate.
and Strawberry Pie. The Produce Hunter has
This cheese is best served within the first few days of
developed close relationships with small,
receiving it, but is also delicious once slightly ripened. With
local family farmers committed to sustainable
its firm and sometimes chalky or fudgy texture, the Chantal aperitif is wonderful when covered in light
agriculture, responsible production, and
olive oil with herbs and roasted garlic. Pair with light, fruity delicate wines such as Sauvignon Blanc or
propagation and promotion of fruit and
Beaujolais for a refreshing summer afternoon snack. For more information on Capriole Chantal Aperitif or
vegetables with exceptional flavor.
Capriole Farmstead, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
6
www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2011
INSIDE
The Spice Rack by Chef Gabriel Caliendo
PLAIN CHOCOLATE? CHOCOLATE IS HANDS DOWN THE CHAMPION OF ALL SWEET CREATIONS. It is loved by almost everyone and consumed by the millions of pounds annually. Chocolatiers have enjoyed a renaissance in the last five to eight years, challenging themselves and their consumers to try creative new combinations — some safe, some on the edge, and some just completely, off-the-charts crazy. Let’s take a look at some of my favorite chocolate combos. Chocolate. Bacon. Chocolate with Bacon? Bacon with everything!!! Chocolate-flavored with bacon, or crispy bacon dipped or covered in chocolate can be witnessed on menus at restaurants, seen on TV, and even purchased off the shelves at grocery stores. Appearances include: the Minnesota State Fair (called “Pig Lickers”), the boardwalks of Santa Cruz (called “Pig Candy”), Time Magazine (video of the making of a bacon bar), and the NY Times (candied bacon cubes). Another interesting pairing is chocolate with spices, herbs and tea. Just take a visit to The Thomas Haas website of chocolate to find an assortment of killer creations. Some of my favorites: Lemon-Thyme and dark chocolate; The Aztec with Ancho, Arbol, and Habanero chilies; and “French Blue” flavored with Earl Grey Tea, blue cornflowers, and fresh oranges. This list goes on and includes other flavors such as vanilla bean, curry powder, passion fruit, cinnamon, coffee beans, black pepper, lavender, and sea salt. I love chocolate, and I love trying something new. When I dine out, my first thoughts are to scan the menu for something I’ve never tried. If you do the same, I urge you to check out some of these chocolates. They are sure to offer an experience you may not otherwise have had. Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the Vice President of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.
MAY • JUNE 2011 | great taste
7
INSIDE
THE BAKING
RACK by Chef Katie Averill
Baking for Weddings
8
THESE DAYS WHEN I CATER WEDDINGS, THE
drumming up ideas for which minis to make, keep
colors of both the sandwich cookie and the crème
BRIDE INEVITABLY REQUESTS SWEETS IN
in mind such factors as what is on trend, what will
fillings. Sugar cookies are great in a variety of ways;
ADDITION TO THE CAKE. Miniature sweets are
look “clean”, and what is relatively stable as
cookie cutters are now made in perfect shapes like
perfect for weddings because they look beautiful
weddings are often outdoors and subject to the sun
high heels, wedding dresses, and wedding cakes.
lined up in rows on a table and they can also
or wind. I have several ideas that pass the test and
They can be decorated impressively with a little
double as favors for guests to take home. Bite-sized
won’t break the bank the way chocolate truffles
skill and different colored royal icings. Simple
treats need not be complicated; in fact, simple,
will. As caterers and chefs, we know that one less
initials of the bride and groom can also be made
non-fussy desserts look better on a buffet with the
dollar put into ingredients is one more dollar in our
with sugar cookie dough and decorated. Thirdly,
main contrast coming from the differences
pockets. While bright colored macarons are the
round sugar cookie sandwiches can be stacked
between the kind of desserts, not the elaborateness
latest thing right now, they are time consuming and
largest to smallest to create a 3-D miniature
within
completely
difficult to make. I recommend instead that you
wedding cake look. Allow yourself to be whimsical
professional with the internet allowing us to buy
make simple meringue kisses with the same bright
and remember: the details make the wedding!
the same fancy packaging, ties, wrappers and
shades and flavorings. Mini whoopie pies are easy
candy boxes that you find in stores. When
to make and you can make different flavors and
each
one.
Favors
look
www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2011
Comments welcome at kdcooks@aol.com.
INSIDE
MAY • JUNE 2011 | great taste
9
TRENDS wedding, and during the speeches everyone can hold their glass up to toast. Who wouldn’t want an extra wine glass around the house? On the more creative side, you can give out your favorite jam to “spread the love.” Be as creative as possible; the more you gravitate towards your personality, the more meaning your favors will hold.
Favoring Creativity by Jillian Stoker
PARTY FAVORS Who says party favors have to be those tins of mints to take home? Party favors can be a fun way to get creative and show your personality when picking out the right gift to give to guests. Some of my favorite party favors are those that have double uses. You can use elegant photo frames that match the color of your wedding as table place holders that include the guest’s name and table number which they can take home for their own use. Another favorite is champagne/wine glasses. These can be customized to reveal the date of the
10
www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2011
DRINKS Have fun with the drinks being served at your wedding. They can be tied-in to your wedding by being matched to the theme or color (blue curacao, food coloring, etc.). If you’re not sure about dying the drink or are worried it wouldn’t coordinate perfectly, you could alternatively garnish the drink with a fruit or flower that represents your special day. To save money, serve wine and beer at dinner and celebrate with a special cocktail during cocktail hour. What some couples have been doing is playing a little something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue. SOMETHING OLD: Old Fashioned (simple syrup, bitters, bourbon, cherry) SOMETHING NEW: Make up a new drink with your wife-/husband-to-be and name it something ridiculously funny. SOMETHING BORROWED: “Borrowed Time” (amaretto, vanilla liqueur, whiskey, cranberry juice) SOMETHING BLUE: Blue Hawaiian, Adios, anything with Blue Curacao APPETIZERS To avoid the messy plates and messy faces, it would be helpful to have bite-sized food. Appetizers don’t have to be the pigs in the blankets or food that is fried. There is a solution! Sliders, mini turkey clubs, and bite-sized grilled cheeses are a few popular options. Another trend is to offer small portions which are already speared on a fork or skewer, like chilled shrimp on the fork ready to be indulged. You could also put a little bit of dressing or dip inside a small martini or shot glass and top it with vegetables. Edible arrangements are also a viable option; they come prepared without assembling anything! Instead of having sugary snacks at the buffet table, try arranging a “nut bar”.
Healthy and protein-filled snacks won’t make anyone feel bogged down and will provide your guests with the energy to continue mingling throughout the cocktail hour. Clear square containers can be filled with items such as cashews, chocolate chips, dried fruit, and almonds; to stay eco-friendly and give your guests a little treat, the mix can be served in ice cream cones (to be eaten later) so that no paper cones are used! DESSERTS When we think of weddings, we think of wedding cake. One of the best parts about being at a wedding is…dessert! Nowadays, couples have been getting creative with their dessert to smash in each others’ faces. Choosing a dessert other than cake shows that the bride and groom have a creative side and the dessert they choose is a little more personal. CUPCAKES: Some couples are gravitating towards cupcakes. These are a good alternative because they allow you to pick more than one flavor, there’s no cutting involved, and elaborate or simple cupcakes may be cheaper than buying a wedding cake. PIES: Pies are usually the treat to pick during the fall months, when pumpkin becomes the favorite. But pies also come in other delish options, such as macadamia nut, chocolate pecan, or keylime. You could also offer mini versions, although bringing a "tart" to the wedding could cause problems! MAKE YOUR OWN CAKE: Some couples are making their own cakes with a foundation of their favorite snack, such as Twinkies, Ding-Dongs, and doughnuts. Now that’s one sugar rush we don't recommend. CAKE FAKE-OUT: Use cheesecake instead of a traditional cake; your guests will surely appreciate the creamy surprise. FLAVORFUL FOUNTAINS: Some couples don’t think that the cake is a big deal at all, so to do something fun, place mini chocolate fountains at all the tables and decorate them with berries, pretzels, sponge cake, etc. Kids especially will find this the best way to enjoy their dessert.
TRENDS
Savor Summer Savour
MAY • JUNE 2011 | great taste
11
SUR LE MENU
Duck onfit, foie gras, sautéed breast...anyway you slice it, duck is an impressive addition to the menu. Due to it’s rich flavor, duck is a perfect candidate for a variety of entrées and hors d’oeuvres and, is commonly roasted with an emphasis on complementary fruits and vegetables which make taste buds dance. The skin of the duck can take on a delightful, crispy texture when roasted correctly, and Chef Rob Wilson of The Montage Laguna Beach knows just how to do it. His Crispy Skin Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast with Spiced Carrot Purée is sure to please; however, duck can be prepared in a multitude of ways. Keep reading to see more unique duck recipes Sur Le Menu.
C
Michael’s On Naples – Long Beach Anatra Al Mattone, pan seared Sonoma duck leg, farrotto, Tuscan chard and homemade lemon marmalade.
12
cider roasted baby turnips, market pear, BLiS maple and duck jus.
Bistro Le Crillon – Newport Beach Cassoulet de Toulouse, three sausages, duck confit, ageots.
Delius Restaurant – Signal Hill Duck Confit Appetizer, teardrop tomatoes, dried cranberries, red onion, tomato yogurt spheres, upland cress, queso fresco, mole sauce.
Andrei’s Conscious Cuisine – Irvine Charcuterie Plate, La Quercia Prosciutto, Knight Sopressata, green olive duck terrine, ham & parsley terrine, pickled vegetables, cornichons, whole grain mustard, minibaguette.
The Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar – Various Locations Maple Leaf Duck "Deux Facons", orange soy marinated breast, crispy duck confit and wilted pea shoot pastilla, mango-green peppercorn essence.
Jade Palace Chinese Cuisine – Santa Ana Chinese Crispy Duck or Peking Duck, served as a main dish with plentiful side dish options.
Leatherby's Café Rouge – Costa Mesa Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast, mushroom risotto, caramelized blackberries, Szechuan pepper and cider jus.
Balboa Bay Club – Newport Beach Crispy Spit Roasted Mallard Duck, potato croquettes, braised red cabbage and Lingonberry demi glace.
Tantalum – Long Beach Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast with papple chutney, duck confit, pancetta, rainbow chard, foie gras infused white bean purée.
Catal Restaurant & UVA Bar – Anaheim Duck breast with toasted pearl barley,
Gemmell’s French Restaurant – Dana Point Pâté de Canard, the chef’s blend of duck liver and cognac into an airy mousse.
www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2011
Served with toast points and aspic. Old Vine Café – Costa Mesa Raviolo filled with smoked duck, goat cheese & Porcini mushrooms sautéed in brown butter with sage. Tradition by Pascal – Newport Beach Roasted duck breast on braised endive, caramelized apple, and ginger calvados reduction. Palumbo’s Ristorante – Old Town Temecula Roasted duck ravioli with a soy ginger reduction sauce. Bamboo Bistro Restaurant – Corona Del Mar Roasted duck salad “Goi Vit,” tender roasted duck over cabbage, banana blossoms, onions, carrots and “rau ram” herbs in a lime chili dressing accompanied with shrimp flavored crackers. S Vietnamese Fine Dining – Westminster Vit Tiem, Vietnamese style, five spices duck confit bedded with julienned baby Bok Choy and fried plantain, served with steamed or brown rice.
SUR LE MENU
COVER RECIPE
SERVES 4
Crispy Skin Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast with Spiced Carrot Purée DUCK BREAST
2
Star anise
4 Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breasts - skin
1T
Fresh ginger - chopped
scored, seasoned with salt and
1C
Fresh squeezed orange juice
black pepper
1C
Chicken stock
4 oz
Duck Fat
Heat a large non-stick sauté pan on
Sea salt and pepper to taste
medium heat. Add the duck and let the skin render until crispy, 10-12 minutes.
In a medium sauce pan, heat the duck fat
Once the skin is crispy, turn the duck
and sauté the garlic, shallots, and ginger.
breast over and continue to cook for 2-3
Add the star anise, carrots, OJ and chicken
minutes. Remove from heat and let rest for
stock and simmer until the carrots are fork
10-15 minutes before slicing.
tender. Remove from the heat and remove the star anise. Add the entire mixture to a
CARROT PURÉE
household blender and purée until smooth.
2 Jumbo carrots - peeled, chopped
Adjust seasoning and keep warm for
1 Garlic clove - minced
service.
1 Shallot - chopped
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
MAY • JUNE 2011 | great taste
13
Photos by Matthew Morgan Photography and Studio 7 Photography
Wedding Trend rundoWn by Kelly O'Quinn
14
www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2011
I
n preparation for this issue, I found myself swimming — well, more drowning — in a sea of white. Venues, menus, dresses, rings — the span of information and advice on planning weddings seemed endless. Brides- and grooms-to-be have more than enough on their plate while planning a wedding, and the venue they choose is arguably the biggest decision they’ll make (apart from, you know, deciding to get hitched). Stuck somewhere between banquet hall and catering company on the reception venue/food vendor list is the restaurant. Keeping up with current wedding trends is especially important for restaurateurs, as they need to be aware of and prepared for what’s to come this wedding season. The more you know ahead of time, the better prepared you’ll be when a frazzled bride calls you for quotes, menus, and seating arrangements.
F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
With help from Deanne French, Director of Public Relations at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Beach, we’ve compiled a list of what to expect in the upcoming 2011 wedding season. The overarching trend for 2011 seems to be more creative, personal weddings. Brides and grooms are looking for ways to set their wedding apart from the cookie-cutter standard we’ve become accustomed to; expect to see less cake, more dessert bars, and everything personalized, from signature martinis to monogrammed cookies. This year, weddings are all about creativity, meaning the versatile restaurateur has a chance to shine as the one-stop reception shop. HORS D’OEUVRES In keeping with the popularity of gastropubs in the last year, couples are looking to incorporate gourmet comfort food into their cocktail hour. Expect to have requests for sliders, truffle mac & cheese, soup shooters, sweet potato fries, and bacon-wrapped anything. The presentation of passed foods has also taken a down-home swing. At the Hyatt Regency Garden Grove on Harbor Blvd., it has become common to use unusual trays, like cedar planks, marble tiles, or unique glass pieces in lieu of the typical metal or plastic platter. LIBATIONS Drinks are really where couples are letting their personalities shine through. Signature cocktails are popular; if the bride loves martinis, she might choose to offer a customized martini tinted to a shade that matches the color scheme of the wedding. Taking this concept a bit further, the couple may choose to offer “his and hers” drinks, serving the groom’s favorite libation alongside the bride’s. Executive Chef Ryan Adams and Events Coordinator Monica Flick of Sorrento Grille note that couples have been choosing to serve only beer and wine with the addition of the bride’s favorite martini and the groom’s favorite cocktail/beer. “This typically keeps the cost lower than a full open bar and is a fun way to personalize the event,” they say. Couples have also been letting their guests take creative license with their drinks. At the Hyatt, “Art Bars” have been growing in popularity: offering vodka and Sierra Mist martinis with a variety (they suggest 8) of squeeze bottles filled with colored simple syrups allows guests to design their own martinis. This option may be cheaper for both you and the couple, as it will cut down on the variety of liquors and mixers you need to have on-hand. Fantastic!
ENTRÉES Goodbye chaffing dishes! We can finally put away those roomtemperature sides and canisters of gel fuel. Couples are stepping it up with their main dinner offerings, making sure each guest receives a hot, delicious meal made specially for them. Entrée stations are very popular, with each station featuring a meat, starch, and vegetable, enabling guests to assemble their entrée to their liking. This encourages guests to interact more with each other and ensures that they will be satisfied with their meal. Although entrée stations allow for a large amount of freedom, they can be costly and difficult to execute. You’ll need to have numerous ingredients and chefs on-hand and be able to quickly prepare each dish on-thespot to keep lines moving. If this option isn’t very well suited to your business, you can take a page from Sorrento Grille’s book and offer a tasting menu instead. Tasting menus give you a much narrower idea of which dishes you’ll be preparing, so you’ll know the exact amount of product to order and prepare. The only drawback to this option would be if there are dietary restrictions within the group, so you may want to have a few alternative options available (there are always those guests who don’t inform the bride of their fatal peanut allergy until the day of the wedding — oy vey). DESSERTS Possibly the most iconic feature of a wedding — the cake — is taking a backseat to other sweets. Couples are opting for dessert bars which highlight a selection of treats such as cupcakes, brownies, cheesecake squares, and candy which represent items they have enjoyed as a couple, family recipes, or personal favorites. Desserts are also being served in miniature form as favors for guests to enjoy on the ride home. For some fun dessert ideas, check out the Trends article on page 10 and The Baking Rack on page 8. Couples who are on a tight budget may skip dinner all together, instead offering an extended cocktail hour. A wine and cheese reception would offer a delicious, sophisticated afternoon. Have a Sommelier available to educate guests about the wine and cheese pairings, either from your restaurant or the winery(ies) being featured. If the bride and groom are looking for a more relaxed atmosphere, a Continued on page 16
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E
Continued from page 15 beer and appetizer reception is a trendy avenue to take. Beer pairing dinners are growing steadily in popularity along with the explosion of craft breweries. Beer pairs well with a variety of foods, but one we love is fried appetizers. Fry up anything from pickles to green beans to sweet potatoes, alongside some hearty, non-fried options for more health-conscious guests. As with the wine and cheese reception, have an expert Brewmaster available to answer questions about the brews offered and their pairings. Both of these options are great for restaurants, breweries, and wineries, as they are the perfect opportunity for crosspromotion and expanding your clientele. Be certain to keep these receptions limited to a few hours during off-times (2 - 4 p.m. or 3 5 p.m.) in order to keep guests from making a full meal out of cheese or fries, therefore
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increasing food costs. Full communication with the bride and groom and their guests is imperative so they know not to expect a full meal and will not be hungry and cranky at the reception. The key in all this is to be flexible. Brides and grooms want to personalize their receptions as much as possible, so there may not be room for your tried and true dishes and system. The more you are willing to work with a demanding bride, the more likely it is that she will hire you as her reception venue and caterer. Don’t be a doormat, but don’t be a wall; this relationship is one that needs to be symbiotic. Keep in mind the trends that you can expect to see throughout the year and be prepared for what you may be asked to provide. As you know, hosting a wedding can be a fun, positive experience that brings you new customers and a stronger presence in the restaurant community.
F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
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Photo by Michael Rutt
by Katie Averill
Chef Rob Wilson
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n a transient profession where all chefs seem to be imports from elsewhere, we found a chef with a local past. Chef Rob Wilson was raised in Laguna Niguel, attended Dana Hills High School, and currently holds the revered position of Executive Chef of The Montage Laguna Beach. This is not to say that he has not traveled around the country and paid his dues, making many sacrifices along the way, but he has earned his way back to the beach area he loves with the necessary experience under his white coat and apron. You can take the boy out of California but you can’t take the California…well, you know. Chef Wilson’s main leisure activities include surfing and stand-up paddle boarding, and he enjoys the So Cal weather that permits him to garden (produce, of course) year-round. Chef Wilson started cooking at the Chart House in Dana Point at 15 years old where he got very used to “turning and burning” quickly, as the Chart House is known to be a high-volume locale. Liking the fast pace and feeling like this might be his calling, Chef went right to the top and attended the Culinary Institute of America. He was well on his way, following this writer’s mantra to “get the best education you can and then jump on prestigious coat tails”. Continued on page 18
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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
M A K E C O N TA C T
The Montage Hotel Laguna Beach 30801 SOUTH COAST HWY. LAGUNA BEACH, CA 92651 WWW.MONTAGELAGUNABEACH.COM
Chef Rob Wilson AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK? A lot! 1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY: My mom teaching me how to flip an egg when I was five. WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? Good food makes people happy and I enjoy making people happy. FAVORITE KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL: My “Horsepower Kitchen” Taco Cart (thanks Turbosonics & Lu Lyall).
Chef Wilson just recently joined the Montage in August 2010 after an impressive history as Executive Chef with the RitzCarlton chain that spans two decades. Although he speaks fondly of his early days with the Ritz-Carlton, the Montage appealed to Chef Wilson because it is “still in the boutique stage”. Amazing chefs with deep passion had complete freedom to create and make their particular Ritz the best it could be. Today, he is that chef at the Montage and his apprentice cooks are equally passionate and eager to learn from him. He loves being a mentor to them in a personal one-on-one way, as he was mentored by Ritz-Carlton royalty like Jean Pierre Dubray and Christian Rassinoux. Chef Wilson has a myriad of responsibilities at the Montage and, make no mistake, he finds himself cooking on the line quite often. He “never stops cooking”; it is just a matter of where he will be. The Montage hosts a litany of banquets and weddings, and he often finds himself organizing the events and determining what the “action stations” will be. Once he creates the menus and decides the station break down, he has to teach the cooks on the stations exactly how he wants the dishes to Photo by Michael Rutt
FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE: Vitamix blender. FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE: All-Clad. FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: Mae Ploy and Star Anise. BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE KITCHEN: Not all chefs have to have the “Gordon Ramsey” attitude in the kitchen to get effective results. HOBBIES: Surfing, stand-up paddle boarding, snowboarding, motocross, and golf. FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT: Amber's Cantina. FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Ahi Tuna and Avocados. WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE? Creative, Seasonal, Spontaneous.
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“Good food makes people happy and I enjoy making people happy.” — Chef Rob Wilson be executed. These menus are prone to changing on a daily basis according to the function type and clients’ wishes. He attends many public relations and fundraising events and donates his time for charities. On any given day, he may find himself cooking a seven course meal at the residence of the highest bidder. One of the restaurants in the resort, Mosaic, does 350 plus covers a night and his help is often needed cooking as well as expediting. With this type of volume, his trained eye is needed to check each plate and make sure things are done properly; the last plate of the night needs to be just as perfect as the first. And if he is needed in the Loft, he will go there.
Being relatively new to the Montage, Chef Wilson has many plans and ideas he wants to implement, like coordinating with the Food and Beverage Department to start a winemaker dinner program. However, it is apparent that his immediate goals are broader and more about the dynamics and flow of the kitchens collectively. He wants to promote synergy between all of the back of the house areas and to develop an interdependence like they have not experienced before. Like the waves that rise and fall on the shore of this coastal property, the flow of what goes on behind the scenes and the seamlessness of your experience at this world-renowned getaway are largely orchestrated by Chef Rob Wilson.
F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
Basil Butter Poached Maine Lobster with White Balsamic Vanilla Bean Vinaigrette SERVES 4 POACHED MAINE LOBSTER 2 1.5 lb Maine lobsters - live 1 lb Unsalted Butter 1 bunch Fresh Basil 12 Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes - halved 1 Avocado - halved, pit removed, and cut into 1/4s; remove the skin and cut each 1/4 into 4 pieces 2 Navel Oranges - peeled, segments removed Micro Basil or small basil leaves Sea Salt and Pepper To Taste PREPARATION Blanch the lobster in salted boiling water for 7 minutes. Remove and place them in an ice bath. To clean, remove the head from the tail and separate the knuckles and claws. Next, remove the knuckle and claw meat from the shell. To remove the tail meat from the shell, cut the tail in half and gently remove the meat. Slowly melt the butter in a medium sautĂŠ pan and add the basil. Allow the basil to steep in the butter for 5 minutes. Turn the basil butter to low heat and add the lobster. Poach the lobster for 3-4 minutes, just to heat through. WHITE BALSAMIC VANILLA BEAN VINAIGRETTE 2 Shallots - minced 2T Dijon Mustard 1 Vanilla Bean - halved; scrape the vanilla out of the inside of the bean with the tip of a knife 3 oz White Balsamic Vinegar 1T Honey 10-12 oz Extra Virgin Olive Oil Salt and Pepper To Taste PLATING On your plate of choice, assemble the tomatoes, orange segments, avocado, and lobster. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the salad. Garnish with basil, sea salt and pepper.
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THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE including those especially for weddings, that help you to make your own creation for less money. Not enough time set aside for arts and crafts? Then instead you can
flowers. Do you see this lasting? Why or why not? CF: I do adore paper flowers but I don't see it as a lasting trend; the root of the plants
incorporate eco-friendly decoration, like miniature flower pots or packages of wedding confetti. Even the smallest details can transform an already special restaurant space into a spectacular wedding reception for future guests to experience. Christa Falk, the owner of Floral Designs by Christa Rose, has given us a wedding decor and floral designer’s perspective on what goes into creating a beautiful wedding reception to inspire and ready you for the summer 2011 wedding season.
and paper flowers trend stems from the “green” movement. However, paper flowers, unless the paper is truly recycled, are more wasteful. For couples on a small budget, I always recommend 1-3 potted orchid plants as centerpieces because they are so elegant and beautiful on their own.
Stop and Smell the Roses by Allison Clark Photo by Matthew Morgan Photography
ights, table settings, flowers, action! Yes, it’s that time of year again. Time to roll down your sleeves and stop to smell the roses — that is, if the roses are in an extravagant centerpiece; otherwise, what are you doing in the garden? Get back to work! General managers, proprietors, executive chefs, I’m talking to you. If you haven’t already, be prepared for phone calls concerning hosting a wedding reception at your restaurant or hotel. No need to panic, we have an inside look that will help prepare you for the 2011 wedding season. Before we get into trends for the summer season, let’s look at how to attract those busy, blushing brides. One idea is to tweak or make small changes to current restaurant decor. Sprinkle in a few floral centerpieces here and there or get creative with table settings. There’s no need to break the bank, just add some sparkle for the summer season. Another way to create more wedding appeal is to include more color in your restaurant space. Create a heavenly summer space with bright, saturated colors throughout. Or maybe you enjoy the simplicity of using your hands to generate additional decoration. If that’s the case, try DIY. DIY ideas have flooded online websites,
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GT: What do you predict will be the biggest trend(s) for wedding decor this year? CF: I see couples going for brighter, bolder colors in decor and in wedding attire. Modern couples are looking at their wedding as a way to showcase their style and I certainly think that this trend will carry on. I also think that the Royal Wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton will impact many future style decisions. GT: Any previous trends that you see making a comeback? CF: About 10-15 years ago, color was a big part of weddings. This year, color is back, but instead of soft, pastel-like colors like lavender and mint green, we are seeing more saturated colors like eggplant and kelly green. GT: I’ve noticed that a new trend has shown flowers being replaced by plants and paper
GT: Which phrase do you stand by when designing floral arrangements and table top settings — “less is more” or “bigger is better?” CF: I don’t really stand by either because it always depends on the style or theme the couple is asking for. I tend to think of what will make the most impact for the budget I have been given. GT: How much do wedding flower arrangements typically cost? CF: Couples can expect to spend no less than $1,000.00. GT: As an expert in floral and interior design, what aspect of creating a wedding do you look forward to most? CF: My favorite part of designing a wedding is when I first meet with a couple and hear what they have in mind for their wedding. This stage is the most fun because I get to explore several creative ideas and help them create or clarify any and/or all styling decisions. Christa Falk, who has her B.A. in interior design, is the owner of Floral Designs by Christa Rose. You can find her online at www.christarose.org.
THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE
Wine & Chocolate by Marian Jansen op de Haar
t’s that time of the year: Celebrations, graduations, weddings, showers, Mother’s and Father’s Day. When a menu calls for something festive, chocolate becomes part of the occasion. I’ve been asked many times over the years: “What wines pair best with chocolate?” And most of the time, the majority of us are off-target with the pairing. Chocolate is powerful, rich, and velvety, and tends to ruin the sophisticated and subtle flavors in wines. To make it a truly memorable pairing, select an equally powerful dessert wine to go with a luscious chocolate dessert.
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and nutty aromas with hints of orange flower and caramel. The flavor profile is full of rich, concentrated flavors and the finish is long and mellow. Ports are best served at a temperature of 60-65 degrees in 12-15 ounce glasses, not the tiny ones you see so often — you want to swirl Ports just as you would any other wine. I learned this on a tasting trip to Portugal, the country of origin of the beautifully fortified wine. The full, sweet, powerful fruit flavors, together with its nuttiness, make this Port an excellent complement to any chocolate or chocolate dessert. One of the most unusual dessert wines in the world is the Renwood, Zinfandel
The first rule of pairing sweets to wine is one that often gets broken: The wine has to be sweeter than the dessert. The first rule of pairing sweets to wine is one that often gets broken: The wine has to be sweeter than the dessert. If you don’t pay attention to this, your wine will taste bitter, flat, and stripped of fruit flavors (the flavors we like most in wine). It is not easy to abide by this principle because most desserts are very sweet. This means the wine has to be even sweeter. One trick is to cut the sugar in your recipe a little. Rule number two: chocolate needs a powerful and sweet dessert wine. My never-fail recommendation is to try a Port. The Taylor Fladgate, Tawny Port 20 year old Portugal NV, is an excellent choice. This Port has a beautiful, intense amber tawny color and an opulent and voluptuous nose of complex spicy, jammy
Amador County Amador Ice, 2008. The aroma of Amador Ice is intensely “Zinfloral”: fruity with rich, complex, balanced and lush flavors. A touch of Muscat and a hint of Viognier were added for fragrant and exotic notes. Enjoy this wine as an aperitif or at the conclusion of a memorable meal with your favorite milk, semi-sweet or dark chocolate dessert. Once you try these pairings, you won’t go back to other wines as an accompaniment to the deliciously decadent world of chocolate. Marian Jansen op de Haar is the principal of Vines 57, a wine consultancy based in Napa, California. She is the wine consultant for Newport Beach-based Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, which has 64 locations nationwide.
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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES
You May Drink the Wine by Chris Kern
Red: 2009 Cycles Gladiator Central Coast Syrah (Retail: $7.99/bottle) I’m reticent to even mention this wine, as it’s one of my favorites and I don’t want to see a run on it. But instead of another Cab
Sparkling: Domaine Gruet Brut (Retail: $14.99/bottle) I’ve sung the praises of Gruet before, and for good reason. It’s crisp, clean, delicious, and hyper-affordable for a domestic
Grüner Veltliner may be the perfect wedding white. recently attended the Palm Springs Food & Wine Festival and got caught in a moment. Maybe it was the warm sun, the picture-perfect day, or the tenting, but something got me thinking about weddings. Even the frenzy of attendees around the wine and food stations got me in a wedding mood. For a culinary professional, determining what wines to serve at a wedding can be difficult. You’re catering to many different needs: the wedding party demanding a high-end, luxurious event on a limited budget; the guests wanting a good time; and you, trying to put on the best possible show while keeping your margins high and bottom line low. Serve them crappy wine and the claws come out. Unfortunately, most betrothed couples don’t give much thought to their wedding wines, which puts the onus on you. With that in mind, here are three of Chris’s Favorite Wedding Corks — one red, one white, and one sparkling — to balance out that wicked wedding triangle of cost, quality, and prestige.
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or Merlot, this Syrah jazzes up any matrimonial proceedings. Similar to a Rhône-style syrah, it’s full of smoke and dark blackberries but has enough fruit on the palate to please Grandma. Also, its tannic heft will counter even the toughest ballroom steak, and it’s got a conversationpiece label. You’ll get compliments galore for pouring something so unique. White: 2009 Hugl Grüner Veltliner (Retail: $10.99/1 Liter bottle) Truthfully, Grüner Veltliner may be the perfect wedding white. Its citrus crispness and high acidity pairs well with any fish, seafood, or chicken dish. The white pepper zestiness balanced with flinty minerality will open eyes among aficionados at the wedding. Coming from Austria, this wine instills exoticness and luxury. It’s a lower-alcohol wine (typically around 12%) and usually comes in liter bottles, so you’re getting four bottles for the price of three. Most importantly, it’s not another melted-butter-and-vanilla Chardonnay, for which the guests will thank you.
sparkler. With its balance of lemon zest and yeasty notes, you’d never guess it comes from New Mexico, but given its price and pedigree (crafted by a French family with deep Champagne roots), it’s a winner. Convincing the bridal party on a New Mexican wine may be the hardest part, but once they taste, see the price, and are sold on pouring something unique, there should be no argument. Bonus Idea: Craft Beer Tasting Craft beers are super-hot today, and beer samplers can be a fun, unique alternative to wine at a wedding. With great craft brewers like Stone, Green Flash, Bootleggers, the Bruery, Bayhawk, TAPS, and Hangar 24 in the area, there’s plenty of selection and great beers to choose from. Chris Kern is the founder of ForgottenGrapes.com and the creator and host of Sunday Night Chef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com). E-mail him directly at chris@forgottengrapes.com.
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