Great Taste Magazine Sept/Oct Issue

SAVORY SWEETS 10 SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

ESPRESSO ANYONE? 19

LED SIGNS 20

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA

FROM THE EDITOR

T E R I’S TAK E arn! Summer’s almost officially over. Not that that means much to us here in SoCal. We spent lots of time at the OC Fair this summer and tasted lots of fried items and met many of great people. If I ate at the fair does that make me a carni-vore? Yuk, yuk, yuk.

It’s not too soon to start thinking about fall even in these fine days... we’ve got you covered with great soup ideas and some yummy-sounding mac ‘n’ cheeses.

For you pastry chefs, Katie shared her recipe for fondant; delicious, easy and a money saver. You'll also enjoy our selection of sweet-savory desserts, a nice change from the norm; molten chocolate cake, panna cotta, creme brulee. etc.

Our website is growing leaps and bounds and this month we've started with all kinds of give-aways and contests on Facebook too.

Kids are back at school and that's great for us. We also have a new group of interns to help us out. They’ll be calling and emailing you so give them a hand and they’ll help you get your Great Taste on.

Looking forward for fall and spring, we'll be arranging more day trips and HIP tastings for you to enjoy.

Hope to see you soon.

MORE THAN CHEFS

D

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s

}

CONTENT F E AT U R E S 1 4 SOUPS OF THE SEASON Simmer and Savor some comfort this fall.

17

19 20

BEVERAGES San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival.

Find out who’s hot and new now.

THE BEET Acknowledging all the greatness and philanthropy in this generous Industry.

5

OPERATIONS LED Signs.

22

5

BACK OF THE HOUSE Choose the right espresso machine.

OWNER/OPERATOR MARTY WELLS

INSIDE 4 THE BEET

Content

BOOKS Discover the secrets of Bottega in Michael Chiarello’s book.

THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS Sweet and savory.

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 BAKING RACK 7 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 7 FISH MARKET 7 SWEET SPOTS 8 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT 9 SPICE RACK 1 1 FOOD TRUCK FEVER 1 2 SUR LE MENU

On The Cover Succulent baby back ribs and smoky, sliced brisket are dry marinated and slow-smoked over Hickory and Applewood pits at Chef Marty Wells’ Bad to the Bone BBQ in San Juan Capistrano. If almost three pounds worth of tender ribs aren’t enough to get you salivating, choose from nearly 20 house made side dishes, including a classic favorite, Mac ‘N’ Cheese. This issue’s Sur Le Menu features Mac ‘n’ Cheese in a variety of gooey Southern California interpretations. Look for these as well as Chef Wells’ recipe on page 13. Photo

by Michael Rutt.

GABRIEL CALIENDO

ADAM NAVIDI

KATIE AVERILL

JASON STEIN

Corporate Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Corporate Pastry Chef

Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

Adam Navidi Catering

Balboa Dessert Co.

chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

3

THE

BEET

THE

BEET

INSIDE

PRODUCE

PICK

OF THE MONTH

Lobster Mushrooms YOU’RE WALKING PAST AN EVERGREEN TREE IN THE FOREST AND SOMETHING THE COLOR OF RICH SUNSET CATCHES YOUR EYE. Lobster mushrooms, bright orangey-red fungal blossoms, are found between July and September. Hypomyces lactifluorum are actually a parasite that attack two North American mushroom species, Lactarius (milk-cap) and Russula (short-stemmed or peppery-cap), covering the entire body of their host mushroom.

Devotees assert that lobster mushrooms evoke a mild seafood-like flavor similar to its namesake. This unique fungus can also taste peppery if the host mushroom for the fungi was the lactarius piperatus. Lobster mushrooms are a wonderful addition to pastas with cream sauce, seafood bisques or chowders, risottos, egg dishes such as quiches and frittatas or alone as side dish to almost any protein. Crisp white wines such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are a great match for this mild-flavored fungus.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with small, local family farmers committed

to

sustainable

agriculture,

personable production, and propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

n what turned out to be one of the closest Chef Fights Orange County has ever seen, Challenger Chef James Harris (pictured), Executive Chef of The Royal Hawaiian in Laguna Beach, defeated Defending Champion Chef Nicola (Nick) Bellazzi, Chef/Owner of Enne Cucina Italiana in San Clemente, at the Orange County Sunday Night Chef Fight at the Standards of Excellence showroom in Huntington Beach. Who’s the next challenger in line? We’ll let you know on the web at www.great-taste.net. Both chefs delighted an excited crowd of 46 hungry foodies with their inventive cuisines and unique personalities, as they presented an array of dishes that utilized the three base ingredients of shrimp, mushrooms, and brown bread, as well as the mystery ingredient of cinnamon, which was revealed to them only two days before the Chef Fight.

Just days away from opening, Pizzeria Mozza has arrived. They will be open six days a week until October when they’re planning seven. Here’s the team as we know it — Chef/Owners Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Executive Chef Matt Molina, Chef de Cuisine Emily Corliss, Pastry Chef Sarah Asch and General

I

Manager Sam Schamberg.

Hotel Laguna’s “facelift” is expected to be completed by early fall, culminating with an open house and celebration. In addition to luxurious upgrades throughout, hotelier Georgia Andersen is also planning a conceptual makeover for the hotel’s Claes Restaurant, which will be renamed Claes’ Ovation. It will now feature “Festival fare” including small plates and a three-course prix fixe menu especially designed for visitors on their way to the Pageant and art festivals. Newly appointed industry leader Heinz U. Hofmann, Chief Operating Officer of Hotel Laguna had the honor of inducting both Executive Chef Paul Bauer and Claes’ son, Stefan Andersen, who recently received his Bachelor of Science in hotel management, into this distinguished group.

Real Mex Restaurants, Inc, the parent company to restaurant companies El Torito and Acapulco Mexican Restaurants, donated $10,000 to the American Cancer Society after a four day fund raiser last month. The drive was part of the American Cancer Society’s annual “Relay for Life.”

Close to 100 El Torito and Acapulco restaurants throughout California participated in the event.

THE

BEET INSIDE

THE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Thom Connolly Paul Giannotti Suzanna Hoang Chris Kern Linda Mensinga Chef Adam Navidi Chef Jason Stein

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

naheim White House launched an innovative give away and then sweetened the pot even further. Bruno’s original call out read “Attention all nonprofit charities in the OC…the Anaheim White House is sponsoring a contest from which the top 12 finalists will receive a free catered luncheon for up to 100 guests in the restaurant’s private banquet room, the West Wing. Owner Bruno Serato is asking charities with a 501c3 designation to submit a brief description of why the organization is deserving of the giveaway valued at more than $4,000 and he will select one for each of the next 12 months. The giveaway includes room rental, 3-course lunch and non-alcoholic beverages.” Bruno received over 200 entries and has decided to host 52 randomly chosen free catered lunches in the West Wing for non-profits commencing January 1, 2012. Thank you Bruno for your exceptional contributions!

Benjamin Udave began his official career at Chef Tim Goodell’s Red Pearl Kitchen in Huntington Beach. He has held positions with Hollywood’s White Lotus Restaurant and Red Carpet Catering, and he helped open the Home Depot Center in

A

BEET Carson as Chef de Cuisine. Most recently, Benjamin was Executive Chef of all five restaurant concepts at the prestigious Jonathan Club in Santa Monica. Benjamin looks forward to sharing his talent and creative approach to cooking with the unique style of cuisine at Perch, the aptly named rooftop lounge located in downtown’s Pershing Square Building.

The three-story establishment boasts breathtaking views of the city and an eclectic menu of approachable versions of classic French dishes.

After a whirlwind start up in Chicago, restaurant review site, FoodMafia.com is ready to see its name in lights and has launched in the city of angels. The member based community of food lovers offering informative reviews on restaurants in their areas, was founded when CEO Stacy Johnson became unsatisfied with the food reviews she was reading online while visiting cities. Like most, she wanted credible suggestions about where to go for great dining experiences so with necessity being the mother of inventions, she created Food Mafia.

Irvine-based Yard House Restaurants will open eight new restaurants within the next 12 months and reach the 40 unit mark.

BOOKS

hef Michael Chiarello’s Bottega Restaurant is one of Napa Valley’s most popular new locations. His book, aptly named Michael Chiarello’s Bottega, has received as much critical acclaim as the restaurant itself with award nominations by the IACP and the James Beard Foundation. The cookbook, written with Ann Krueger Spivak and Claudia Sanson, is filled with beautiful photographs of the staff, restaurant and food

by Frankie Frankeny. The recipes truly deliver “Bold Italian flavors from the heart of the wine country,” and feature favorite dishes from the restaurant’s menu. Dishes range from a simple Torn Figs and Burrata and Tagliarini with Manilla Clams and Calabrese Sausage to the more elaborate Ancient-Grain Polenta “Under Glass” with Mushrooms and Balsamic Sauce and Smoked or Braised Natural Short Ribs with Roasted Cipolini Onions and Smoky Jus. Each recipe is precisely detailed, including helpful tips and substitutions. In 222 pages, the book has chapters on snacks, antipasti, soups and salads, pastas, fish, meats, side dishes, and deserts. For chefs and dedicated home cooks, the appetizing flavors and ingredients will get your creative cooking juices flowing. To purchase this book and many others, please visit www.great-taste.net.

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SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

5

INSIDE

THE BAKING

RACK

by Chef Katie Averill

HOMEMADE FONDANT FONDANT MAKES THE MOST BEAUTIFUL, SMOOTH, FLAWLESS, CLASSY WEDDING CAKES. Time after time, brides choose fondant covered cakes to achieve “the look” of the cake they want. However, no one ever said that it tastes great or even good. It comes in a bucket and tastes like chalk. It is decidedly THE most UN-TASTY (is that a word?) product in pastryland.

Back in the day, when I first started out making wedding cakes I dreaded fondant, not only because it tasted terrible but because it was so darn expensive. I would have $2 profit by the end of days of work. Then I discovered how to make my own. I could buy real ingredients, cheap ingredients; a better product for 75% less money!

Today I decided to let you in on the secret. You will keep this recipe forever if it means to you what it has meant to me.

1 lb marshmallows 2 lbs powdered sugar 3 T water Melt marshmallows over a bain-marie (never over direct heat). This is a slow, sticky process. Add water to marshmallows and put in a mixer. With the mixer on LOW, gradually add the powdered sugar. Knead with a dough hook until well combined

and

perfectly

smooth. You can use fondant immediately

or

wrap

it

airtight in plastic wrap. You can thank me later!!! Contact Chef Katie Averill at KDCOOKS@aol.com

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

INSIDE

Cheese Pick of the Month ECHO MOUNTAIN BLUE CHEESE

The Fish Market

IF THERE WAS EVER JUST ONE WELL-ROUNDED,

by Chef Jason Stein

Echo Mountain Blue Cheese just might take the title.

PERFECTLY BALANCED BLUE CHEESE, Rogue Creamery’s Throughout its 56 year history, this Oregon creamery has lived by the dedication to craftsmanship of its founder Tom Vella, artisan cheesemaker from Sonoma, California.

Introduced by Rogue in 2003, Echo Mountain is a semi-firm blue cheese aged 8 to 12 months in a cement cave

SCALLOPS

designed by Vella, inspired by the limestone caves he experienced studying cheese making in Italy.

SUCCULENTLY SWEET WITH THE ESSENCE

Since taking over operations from the Vella family in 2002, David Gremmels and Cary Bryant have

OF THE OCEAN, scallops are considered a

helped maintain Tom Vella’s passion to create the best product available, using locally produced raw

seafood delicacy by many people. They are very

milk. The distinctive flavor of this mixed-milk blue cheese comes from a blend of 80% cow’s and 20%

versatile and can be prepared in many ways,

goat’s milk to create a rich, buttery, sweet yet tangy blend.

from simple searing and grilling to sautéing,

First place winner of American Cheese Society’s Mixed Milk category in 2010, among many other

deep frying and baking. The scallop shell is

accolades, this multifaceted blue cheese can be used in nearly any recipe that calls for a dense, creamy

symmetrical and quite beautiful, and as such is

and smooth taste. Its subtle peppery finish is fantastic on summer salads, beef burgers, lamb roasts,

often found in motifs both decorative and

and grilled stone fruit and berries for a nice twist on dessert. For more information, please contact

religious. Some notable examples are Boticelli’s

Rogue Creamery or your FreshPoint representative.

the Birth of Venus and the sign of any Shell gasoline station.

There are three kinds of scallops consumed in the United States — sea scallops, bay scallops and calico scallops. Sea scallops are large and are often presented in beautifully seared platings

SWEET SPOT

by Suzanna Hoang

of three or more. Bay scallops are much smaller,

EDIBLE SUGAR ART

and many think sweeter in taste. Due to their size

A SIMPLE, YET RESOUNDING INTEREST IN ARTS

shaped onto a wire before the creative manipulation

they are best suited for stir-fry or pasta

AND CRAFTS drove Huntington Beach-based sugar

takes place, and when finished, anything from rolling

applications. Calico scallops are harvested off

artist Shaile Socher to take a cake

pins to empty egg cartons can be

the coast of the U.S. Gulf and unlike sea and bay

decorating class ten years ago.

used to set the shape of the piece

scallops, their shells are tightly closed and they

After numerous lessons in fondant

created. Careful persistence and a

must

technique, design and piping

steadfast hand are needed to create

be

steamed

open

before

further

preparation. Although similar in size and color to

detail, she took a fortuitous

gumpaste flowers since the product

bay scallops, they are less sweet than their

gumpaste class with acclaimed

dries quickly. Powdered food coloring

international master cake and

can be brushed onto the dried petals

The best scallops are dry pack sea scallops.

sugar artist Nicholas Lodge. That

or leaves to bring them closer to life.

Northern cousins.

Dry pack scallops are packaged without any

solidified her decision to make life-

Egg whites and extra Tylose powder

additives. A great number of scallops are actually

like sugar flowers her edible

are used to help gumpaste bind to

treated with an additive called STP (sodium

medium and career focus.

tripolyphosphate). STP helps keep the scallop

the wires and cakes for the final

Gumpaste becomes similar to

moist but also causes the scallops to absorb a lot

fondant with the addition of

of excess moisture, sometimes as much as 50%

Tragacanth, a rare and expensive powder derived

presentation. The shelf life of gumpaste flowers is indefinite. While edible, gumpaste is fairly tasteless when dried.

of their weight. Of course, since scallops are sold

from natural tree sap, making gumpaste “gummy”,

Socher won Best in Show at the San Diego

by weight, this ultimately inflates the price. By

and malleable enough to roll out really thin. Tylose

Cake show the last two years and had her work

law, STP treated scallops must be sold as "wet

powder is a more affordable substitute for Tragacanth.

featured at the Orange County Fair. Passionate

pack". Wet scallops when cooked have a

Various molds and cutters can be used to create the

about giving back to the community, Socher has

tendency to leach out a lot of liquid and it is

base shapes for leaves and flowers and from there,

also donated her decorated cookies and flowers to

difficult to achieve a crust from searing due to

different rollers and tools can be used to create

the

their high moisture content.

feather-like, detailed flower petals. Each petal is

http://sugarartist.wordpress.com

Venice

California

Historical

Society.

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

7

INSIDE

TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

by Chef Adam Navidi ONCE AGAIN THE DEADLINE HAS PASSED, AND

saucier or line cook and finished à la minute; not by

cooking and handling different food items. There

I’M WALKING ON THIN ICE IN THE MIDDLE OF

some waiter or waitress who just got done wiping

are never enough hand washing sinks on a busy line

SUMMER. My catering business is rocking and

some kid’s spit off a table with a dirty cloth.

and I despise the use of kitchen towels at every

finding the time to sit down somewhere solid and

That brings me to another topic — sanitation. I

station, under cutting boards or for wiping off

throw you my thoughts will surely throw me deeper

recently spent the day getting recertified for my

counters and hands. Lab techs should focus on

into the abyss.

food handler’s card. I always find it funny that in

creating a sanitizing towelette that is economical

I’ve pondered this month’s theme, “Soups and

the 23 years that I’ve been cooking professionally

and compostable for restaurant use (one that is

Fall,” and ideas/stories are simmering at a constant

and certified to handle food, the danger zone is

strong enough to kill any bacteria within seconds of being applied to the hands).

temperature in my head. But they are not what I really

always changing by one or two degrees, back and

want to share with you. Who wants to think of fall in

forth every couple of years. Where’s the group of

I’ll never forget the lesson I learned from one of

the middle of summer, not me! Nor have I ever been

FDA lab techs that figure this out, and do those one

the first great chefs I worked for. He told me, “Wash

a huge soup fan.

or two degrees really make that big a difference

your hands in between everything you touch and

Have you ever pondered how much cream can be

when it comes to the dangers of cooking? How

always before you touch your face! You will never get

added to a soup before it no longer can be called a

many chefs or cooks prepare chicken breast to the

anyone sick including yourself.” During my three

soup? Or why anybody would want to fix a broken soup

prescribed 185 degrees? That list goes on, and is

years working with him, he was never sick a day.

in the first place? Let’s face it: your average soup isn’t

in need of its own article.

Since then I often go through a roll of paper towels

worth the salt you’ve thrown in it. The only reason you

I was privy to some information in regard to

in a day. I wash my hands so much that I’ve had

have a soup du jour on your menu is because you got

some recent hepatitis outbreaks in OC. There really

reactions from using too much soap. I’ve even had

leftover scraps in the kitchen that you need to get rid of.

needs to be more focus on basic sanitation, such as

a local food writer comment in an article that I had

Making fresh and exciting soups is a dying art in

washing hands in the kitchen. Every cook should

the cleanest hands he’d ever seen!

today’s kitchens. The appreciation and understanding

learn the seven steps and the Happy Birthday song

Once this becomes a ritual for your cooks and

of cooking fresh ingredients — while building or

of washing hands and this needs to become habit.

staff it will become a habit for life. You’ll have

marrying their flavors — has been lost in many cases.

Gloves only work when working with one item.

To do a good soup right, it should be handled by the

It’s so easy to cross-contaminate when you’re

fewer staff calling in sick and you’ll keep the ‘Hep out of the Prep!!’

Reap What You Harvest

8

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

INSIDE

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

ZUPPA! GROWING UP IN AN ITALIAN HOUSEHOLD HAS

HAD

MANY

BENEFITS

ON

THE

CULINARY FRONT. It’s this time of year they start canning the final goodies from the summer garden, and it’s always fun to help with that. It is also a time when they start to look toward the fall. As fall emerges, so does my mother’s arsenal of hot and delicious soup recipes. Bring on the ZUPPA! One of the best simple soup recipes from home is a vegetable soup. Sometimes it’s morphed into Minestrone with the addition of pasta, pesto and beans, but most often, it is just a fresh broth derived from some of the vegetables grown in the yard and the addition of seasonings and spices. Dried basil and oregano always make their way into that soup, making it pungent and aromatic. Whenever possible it is best to dry fresh basil and oregano.

Ground black pepper and crushed red chile flakes round out this soup. Along with some crusty bread and a glass of wine…Yep, you got it!

It is also during this season that I see lentils and dried peas coming out of the grocery bags more often. A clean water rinse and quick sorting to remove any stones and they’re ready to go. “Prosciutto scraps” say it all, but I’ll elaborate for those who did not grow up eating prosciutto in the crib as I did. The soup starts with some onions, carrots, celery and garlic all sweated out with olive oil; the small pieces of prosciutto that were left over from a previous use are added. The secret ingredient is a little crushed fennel seed. It is added just before the liquids so the essential oils are released during the toasting and in small quantities so as to not overpower the Zuppa. To finish, some vegetable stock, chicken stock or water and some white wine are added. The soup simmers until the lentils are tender and a finishing drizzle of extra virgin olive oil completes the magic.

Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the Vice President of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

9

TRENDS hese days, the economic recession doesn’t stop foodies from stretching their budgets to discover (and rediscover) the flavors they love and crave.

Desserts with a savory twist have been a meal-ending concept for years, and the ingenuity of chefs keeps things effortlessly innovative and balanced. Some chefs would argue that creating a savory spin on dessert is less of a trendy aspect and more a concept of finding new flavors and textures to balance out the sugary component. While some customers will only eat in their comfort zone, there is definitely a growing group of foodies willing to challenge their taste buds with what some of Orange County’s best consistently have to offer. The culinary hodgepodge of savory sweets include:

T

Sweet & Savory

by Suzanna Hoang

Port-roasted figs, sesame tuile, cumin ice cream, and port gastrique, at Anqi, Costa Mesa.

Cheesecake, pink peppercorn braised pineapple, rum caramel, and avocado sorbet at Splashes, Surf and Sand Hotel and Resort, Laguna Beach.

Spanish Virgin: Yogurt and olive oil pound cake, vanilla ice cream, orange confit, olive oil ice cream at Studio, Montage Resort, Laguna Beach.

Organic lemon thyme pound cake, macerated strawberries, and crème fraiche at Le Pain Quotidien, coming soon to Newport Beach.

“Arroz con Leche” rice pudding, dried

Desserts with a savory twist have been a mealending concept for years, and the ingenuity of chefs keeps things effortlessly innovative and balanced. Some chefs would argue that creating a savory spin on dessert is less of a trendy aspect and more a concept of finding new flavors and textures to balance out the sugary component.

Salted Caramel Budino Terrarium with Ground Chocolate Covered Espresso Bean “Dirt” by Chef Meg Hall of Made by Meg

herb-scented cakes to peppercorn-braised tropical fruits, crunchy nut pralines, and olive oil ice cream to subtly rich foie gras in a creamy cheesecake or garlicky squidink buns with sharp cheddar cheese incased in a sweet, flakey bun. Sit back, enjoy, and stay for dessert.

apricots, salted caramel, hazelnut praline at Catal Restaurant and Uva Bar, Anaheim.

Taro Bread, Squid Ink Buns with Vermont cheddar cheese and garlic, and Sea Salt Coffee, among other treats at 85 Degrees Bakery and Café, Irvine.

Butterscotch pudding with salted peanuts and shortbread cookie at A Restaurant, Newport Beach.

Foie Gras Cheesecake with pecan crust, and kumquat marmalade at Haven Gastropub, Orange.

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

Dark chocolate mousse gâteau, salted cashew and cocoa crunch, brown butter ice cream at Pinot Provence, Costa Mesa.

Whiskey and Coke: black pepper sponge cake, Coke foam, whiskey ice cream, unconched chocolate at Chapter One: The Modern Local, Santa Ana.

TRENDS

Food Truck Fever

by Linda Mensinga

HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM ROBERT ZUETELL AND

neat and orderly or it all gets out of control. Seal

and fusion of ingredients and techniques, but the

GINA GALVAN OPENED CHOMP CHOMP NATION in

everything when traveling. Coconut syrup on the floor

experience is different. Food has to be very portable.

2010 with a Singaporean street hawker concept. The

makes for an interesting second shift.

DO YOU WANT TO HAVE A RESTAURANT SOME

menu features Chili Crab Cakes, Singapore Sloppy

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY ABOUT CONTACT WITH THE

DAY? Getting ready to do a first round of funding for a

Joes, Tiger Slaw, Kaya Stuffed French Toast and their

PUBLIC? The immediate gratification of a pleased

fast casual brick and mortar and a new custom truck.

house-made Iced Rose/Hibiscus Tea with Lychee.

customer and the lovely viral messages and pictures

HOW ABOUT A DESCRIPTOR? Singapore Sling Wings

They serve anywhere from 150 to 500 hungry

are natural chicken wings marinated 24 hours in the

customers a day with a check average of $11.50.

actual drink, Singapore Sling (Brandy, Gin, TripleSec,

Visit www.chompchompnation.com for menu, times

Grenadine and fruit juices) par-baked then reheated in

and locations.

fryer on truck for 30 seconds, rolled in sauce of

WHAT IS CONCEPT/THEME OF FOOD TRUCK?

marinade reserve and cherry and pineapple preserves.

Singaporean street hawker favorites with American twist.

Place on Tiger Slaw (10 ingredients) garnish with lime

HOW, WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO START A FOOD

and green onions serve with Root Chips (taro, yam,

TRUCK? We started tracking them when Kogi got all

cassava, lotus) and a side of sweet chili sauce.

the press. We had a client who wanted to do a

(Pictured) Kaya Coconut Stuffed French Toast is

restaurant and we advised looking into purchasing a

brioche slices stuffed with Kaya coconut curd dipped

truck: lower barrier of entry, more flexibility in this

in vanilla cinnamon egg batter, grilled until golden,

weak economy. We partnered with him when we saw

about the Singaporean Chomp Chomp Nation experience.

quartered; then drizzled with condensed milk, coconut

the gourmet food truck craze of the OC Foodie Fest.

WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT A TRUCK VERSUS

syrup, coconut whipped cream (make ourselves),

WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF THE SMALL

A RESTAURANT? Flexibility and mobility. You can pick

sprinkled with Chomp Chomp dust, (special blend of

KITCHEN SIZE? Can’t hear the customers when the

up and go to another location-change your whole day.

powder sugar, cocoa powder, cardamom, cinnamon,

fan is running full blast. No leaning over. Keep your

HOW IS FOOD TRUCK FOOD DIFFERENT FROM

clove, nutmeg, and chili powder) garnished with mint

nuts to the wall. Limited counter space, need to be

RESTAURANT FOOD? I see it as the same in flavors

chiffonade and a lime wedge.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

11

SUR LE MENU

Macaroni & Cheese he ultimate comfort food, macaroni and cheese moved from home kitchens to restaurants some time ago. Marty Wells (see Bad to the Bone) makes his popular version with sharp cheddar, cream and romano cheeses, with a touch of white wine and nutmeg at Bad to the Bone BBQ San Juan Capistrano.

Food trucks (The Grilled Cheese Truck) to upscale restaurants (The Sky Room in Long Beach) serve this familiar family favorite in scores of variations. Cheeses and pastas come in multiple forms, and add-ins range from spicy jalapeños to luxurious truffles. Websites and blogs are devoted to the subject, and recipes are too numerous to count, try, read or even imagine. The Southern California versions below are a world away from the box with noodles and dried cheese powder. Enjoy the cheesy goodness with Sur Le Menu!

T

320 Main – Seal Beach Baked with mozzarella, cheddar, jack and bleu cheese and topped with Swiss cheese, add smoked duck.

pasta and fresh lobster meat, tossed in a mascarpone, havarti and grana padano cream sauce, topped with panko bread crumbs and grated white cheddar.

21 Oceanfont – Newport Beach Blue cheese penne au gratin.

Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza – Costa Mesa (pictured) Truffled mac and cheese.

2nd Floor – Huntington Beach Harmonious blend of cheddar, Parmesan, gouda cheeses, bacon and a hint of jalapeño.

3 Thirty 3 Waterfront – Newport Beach The classic with smoked bacon crumbles.

A Restaurant – Newport Beach Aged white cheddar and bleu cheese.

The Alley Restaurant – Newport Beach Baked with crimini mushrooms, bacon and Gruyere.

Arroyo Chop House – Pasadena Mac & cheese, Black Forest ham.

Bandera – Corona del Mar Walnut cornbread crumbles The Capital Grille – Costa Mesa Lobster mac ‘n’ cheese, baked campanelle

12

The Corner – Huntington Beach Gnocchi “mac & cheese”, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomato, melted Parmesan.

Delius Restaurant – Signal Hill Chipotle macaroni and cheese, add shrimp or andouille sausage.

Haven Gastropub – Orange Black truffles, Gruyere, fontina, Parmesan.

Kimera Restaurant Lounge – Irvine Truffle oil mac “n” cheese, portobello mushrooms, jalapeño, pancetta and fontina cheese.

K’ya Bistro Bar – Laguna Beach Three cheese macaroni, wild mushrooms, pesto, truffle crust, Parmesan, Gruyere, gorgonzola.

Palm Terrace, The Island Hotel – Newport Beach

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

Elbow pasta with Taleggio cheese, crushed truffles and a Parmesan tuile.

Park Ave – Stanton Spicy lobster mac n cheese, toasted pepper and 3 cheese sauce.

Ruby’s Streamliner Lounge – Orange Lobster mac & cheese, 4 cheese sauce and sun dried tomatoes.

Savannah Chop House – Laguna Niguel Lobster with béchamel sauce, Gruyere, Parmesan, and white cheddar cheese.

Slater’s 50/50 – Anaheim Hills Bacon mac n’cheese.

The Yard House – Various Locations Chicken breast, applewood smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, cheddar and Parmesan with campanelle pasta and white truffle oil.

The Sky Room – Long Beach Lobster mac & cheese, cheddar, Gruyere, bechamel sauce.

The Winery – Tustin Porcini mushroom, blue cheese and macaroni gratin.

SUR LE MENU

COVER RECIPE

3 Cheese Mac “N” Cheese

By: Marty Wells at Bad to the Bone

1 Bag macaroni noodles - large, ridged 3 T Butter 2 Shallots - minced 1/4 C white wine 2 C Manufacturing cream 1/2 C Cream cheese - softened 1/2 t Nutmeg - optional 1 C Sharp cheddar cheese - Tillamook 1/2 C Romano cheese

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Add macaroni pasta and cook for 8 - 10 minutes or until al dente, drain.

3. In a 3 quart saucepan over medium heat, melt butter, add shallots and cook for 3 - 4 minutes until tender. Add white wine and reduce by half.

4. Add manufacturing cream to shallot mixture and bring to a simmer. Add cream cheese to the cream and shallots, whisk until smooth. Add remaining cheeses a little at a time until melted and thoroughly incorporated.

Reserve some cheddar for topping. Add nutmeg if you wish.

5. In a large bowl add cooked macaroni and enough cheese sauce to coat well. Pour into a buttered casserole dish and top with remaining sharp cheddar cheese and bake for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown and heated through.

Island Hotel’s Mac & Cheese

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

13

Butternut Squash & Leek Soup at Old Vine Cafe. Photo by Linda Mensinga (recipe on page 16)

Simmer up comfort for the SeaSon

B

utternut squash is hands down the fall’s most iconic soup, an ongoing favorite that inspires countless variation in kitchens everywhere. Pumpkin, lentil, leek and pepper soups also make appearances on local menus. We surveyed chefs about their plans for the season’s menus. Soup’s comfort food status guarantees the beloved classics never go out of style.

by Linda Mensinga

14

SOUPS COMING THIS FALL TO A BOWL NEAR YOU Rosti Tuscan Kitchen is just one of many who will feature butternut squash soup, one of their top sellers along with Tuscan lentil and minestrone. “We serve a Tuscan beef stew each year.

Guests call in to see when it’s available,” said Kevin Goldfein, Owner/Operator.

Ecco Restaurant at the Camp in Costa Mesa brings fall into focus with another butternut squash soup. Their version, by Chef Kris Kirk, is made with pancetta, spiced creme fraiche and sage. Minestrone and Italian wedding soup are regular menu favorites. Kirk noted less cream and bigger spice in his soups meeting guest demands for healthier items.

This year Kirk plans to incorporate fennel pollen and truffle salt into his soups.

At Daily Grill in Woodland Hills, butternut squash joins gazpacho, Manhattan clam chowder, split pea and chicken noodle on the menu by Chef Phil Kastel.

Matador Cantina Chef David Dennis also offers a butternut or pumpkin soup but tops his

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E creamy puree with pepitas and crème fraiche. He’ll also make chipotle, corn chowder, tortilla and pozole. Their bestseller is albondigas. “It’s our house made specialty, done in seasoned tomato-based beef stock with meatballs, bacon, fresh vegetables and rice,” he said.

“Due to popular demand, the butternut squash & leek bisque is always the seasonal choice!” said Mark McDonald, Chef at Old Vine Café in Costa Mesa’s earthy mall, The Camp.

His porcini mushroom bisque is an ongoing best seller.

Chef Jenny Ross at 118 Degrees in Costa Mesa serves her butternut squash soup with fresh rosemary and butternut crisps. She turns up the volume by adding chilies, corn, red bell pepper and chili squash to her tomato soup that comes with avocado and corn chips. Her shitake miso soup, another favorite, has healthful fresh seaweed and scallions.

Executive Chef Pangilinan at

Cioppino at TAPS Fish House & Brewery

Leatherby’s Café Rouge in Costa Mesa makes vegetable based soups that vary with what’s freshest that season. “In the fall I like to make sunchoke and green apple or celery root with black truffle. Both are made with no cream but they are still rich but not heavy,” he said.

“Fall is peak soup season since it’s harvest time. We’ll be making organic tomato based soups of all kinds: tomato and cannellini bean, tomato lemon verbena, tomato calabacita and ginger. We also enjoy making green and red gazpachos with the fall bounty. Harira (a Moroccan chickpea, lentil and tomato soup) with extra green vegetables and cilantro is an autumn favorite,” said Mark Cleveland, Chef/Partner at Avanti Café in Costa Mesa. Cleveland and Partner Tanya Fuqua regularly sell tomato lentil rosemary, mushroom barley garam masala pumpkin and kale.

“Chowders will be big on our menus. We do a vegetarian corn and poblano chowder, chicken chorizo chowder and a traditional New England clam chowder,” said Larry Continued on page 16

ChEf fAVORITEs BEST SOUPS EVER

Larry Banares: Essence of Crab Olympic with

FAVORITE FALL INGREDIENTS

Zov: Harira (Moroccan tomato, lentil and chickpea

avocado brunoise and poppy seed fleuron at the

Ross Pangilinan: Brussels sprouts, so good with

soup) and purée of butternut squash.

Cheval Blanc Restaurant in the Makati Shangri-La

bacon. I also like to pair quince with duck or foie gras.

Ross Pangilinan: Tofu soup with eel. It was at Joel

Hotel Philippines. From Villa Manila Restaurant in

David Dennis: Pumpkin and pumpkin seeds. I like

Robuchon in Vegas, one of the most inspiring

San Diego a couple of soups come to mind:

to garnish things and pumpkin works well with a

dishes I have had and the highlight of that

Nilagang Baka, a broth soup with bok choy,

number of items from soups to desserts.

expensive meal. My favorite restaurant for stew is

potatoes, beef and bone marrow and Tinola, a

Mark McDonald: Butternut squash, kabocha

Pinoy Pinay, a fast food Filipino restaurant that

chicken soup scented with ginger green papaya

squash, apples.

reminds me of my grandparents’ cooking- a lot of

and Malunggay (a leafy herb with many nutritional

Zov: Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, Swiss

pork and stew like dishes. My favorite one is called

benefits) and Pancit Molo, a broth with shrimp and

chard, kale, faro and quinoa.

kare kare, a stew made with peanut sauce, oxtail,

pork dumplings, scallion cloves of fried garlic.

Diego Velasco: A variety of mushrooms, hard

tripe, vegetables, shrimp paste, and finished with

Mark Cleveland: Pasta Fajoli is one amazing soup.

squash such as acorn and butternut, heartier

calamansi juice.

Mushroom barley is up there with harira, hot and

greens like kale, chard and Bloomsdale spinach as

Lesley Fay: My fresh tomato & basil bisque or my

sour soup, mushroom wonton, ribollita (Tuscan

well as fall pears and apples.

mulligatawny.

bread soup), classic miso soup with wakame,

Lesley Fay: Roasted cauliflower, garam masala,

Diego Velasco: Actually, the soup was one my wife

scallions and sesame seeds.

beets roasted; I could eat fennel (or anise) on

made. It was a vichyssoise of sorts that was a puree

Mark McDonald: Bamboo Bistro is great for soup

anything: raw, roasted or fried.

of leek, red skinned potatoes and zucchini.

and Anjin has a short rib soup that is really tasty.

Jason Tuley: Sunchokes, celery root, asparagus,

Chicken stock was used to add body and richness,

Marco Colin: Lobster bisque.

and quince.

finished with chives.

Kris Kirk: Black truffle soup en croute feuilletee

Alfred Katopodis: Osso buco, stews.

Jason Tuley: My Sous Chef Spencer Johnston’s

served at Paul Bocuse in France.

Marco Colin: Apples, figs, pecans, pumpkins,

oyster chowder and the beef tail broth soup at Han

Jenny Ross: Alaskan halibut fisherman’s chowder

cinnamon and garlic.

Bat Sul Lung Tang in Koreatown in Los Angeles.

at 230 Forest Ave., Chef Marc Cohen.

Kris Kirk: Pomegranates, quince, Brussels sprouts,

David Dennis: Pho at Olivia’s bistro.

Alfred Katopodis: She-crab soup/gumbo.

cavolo nero, kale, rapini.

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

15

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E Continued from page 15 Banares, Executive Chef at the Queen Mary. “Classic lobster bisque is a mainstay on the menu in Sir Winston’s, our signature dining room and the chowders star in our seafood restaurant, Chelsea Chowder House.”

Chef Banares uses tart apples in his onion soup with Stilton cheese crust and takes advantage of smoked and cured meats to give his soups great flavor foundation. “I’ve been getting great feedback on my cold asparagus veloute served as a starter or intermezzo,” he added.

Chef Marco Colin will serve pumpkin and yellow pepper soup along with minestrone at Nieuport 17 in Newport Beach. He incorporates cinnamon and garlic in his seasonal and regular offerings of lentil, navy bean, lobster bisque, and clam chowder.

Chef/owner of Graham’s Grille in Taos, New Mexico, Lesley B. Fay is known for her soups. “I will bring in a New Mexican calabacitas (pumpkin) soup for fall. It has sweetness with New Mexican chile as spice and we top it with toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds),” she said. She always has corn and crab chowder. “The corn is fire roasted. We add applewood smoked bacon and Yukon gold potatoes. It’s been on the menu since we opened four years ago we CANNOT ever take it off.”

As the cooler weather approaches, the Grille will serve heartier New Mexican red chile stew on cheddar cheese polenta, green chile stew, and lamb stew adobo.

“We push the envelope on spices as I am a spice addict but we have to be careful with heat. People say they like heat but they really don’t. I offer my guests Thai Sriracha and Mexican Cholula as condiments,” Leslie said.

“Heartier, comforting soups such Tuscan kale and bean with sausage, purées of root vegetables and squashes such as potato-leek or zucchini & mint,” said Diego Velasco, Chef and Owner of Memphis Café in Costa Mesa, about his upcoming soups. “Our mainstay has always been our unique Down Home Gumbo. Filled with Creole vegetables, smoked chicken, chicken based andouille sausage and okra, it’s topped with steamed rice and shrimp, served with

cornbread.” His guests also love the smoked tomato and basil bisque and shrimp and grilled corn chowder sold every Friday.

“It is nice to see soups becoming heartier in preparation for cooler weather. Long simmered stews and chilis as well as soups that include warming spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice come to mind. I think comfort will still play a major roll this season.

I might even incorporate braises into our soups including ingredients such as short ribs, brisket and pork belly,” said Velasco.

At The Churchill in West Hollywood Executive Chef Jason Tuley will serve his favorite mushroom made of mushroom stock and chanterelle mushrooms. “This fall we will try a new soup with crone (or crosne, a root vegetable with a nutty, sweet taste) and grey shallots from our friends at Stonecrest Farms,” Tuley said.

Boulder Organic Foods in Boulder, Colorado, will sell a butternut squash, roasted corn chowder with Serrano and miso according to Greg Powers. Their standards include red lentil dahl, potato leek, carrot ginger with coconut and green pea with dill.

Zov Karamardian at Zov’s Bistro in Tustin is planning a puree of pumpkin soup and a green lentil with Swiss chard. She always keeps golden lentil on her menu. Coconut chicken with lemongrass, puréed mushroom and chicken noodle are also perennial favorites.

SOUPS TO GO Most restaurants sell their soups to go too. “Our bean type soups freeze very well,” said Kastel.

Banares sells soups to go. “Most soups will freeze well if placed in a proper storage container. Freezer strength zip-loc bags are great for freezing in smaller batches,” he said.

Velasco is in the process of figuring out the best packaging for a customer that wants their gumbo shipped to Florida. “We do sell quite a bit of gumbo for parties and corporate events,” he said.

Zov sells soup to go and pointed out, “Some freeze well, not all.

Creamed soups do not freeze well.”

Ecco also sells soup to go. “I think they freeze pretty well, but nothing beats a bowl of freshly made soup,” Kirk said.

Butternut Squash & Leek Soup

by Mark McDonald, Old Vine Café 4 1 5 2 4 qt 1/4 t

2C

16

Large ripe butternut squash quartered & seeded Large yellow onion - cut into 1/8 pieces Whole cloves garlic Large leeks - dark green discarded, cleaned & chopped Chicken stock Pumpkin pie spice Salt Ground white pepper Heavy whipping cream

1. Combine all ingredients (except salt, pepper and heavy cream) in a large stock pot and bring to a boil on high.

2. Reduce heat so that the liquid is gently boiling (about medium heat) and leave for one hour.

3. Bring the heat back up to high and add the heavy whipping cream. Boil for 10 minutes.

4. Remove the pot from the stove. Using a blender, purée small batches of the mixture until the pot is empty. After the entire mixture is puréed, strain the soup through a fine mesh wire strainer.

5. After the soup has been puréed and strained,

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

return it to a large stock pot and cook on high heat until it reaches a simmer, stirring frequently.

6. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

The consistency of the soup should just coat a spoon. If the soup seems thick, add chicken stock until the desired texture is met.

7. Garnish with fried leeks and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Makes about 6 quarts and can be refrigerated for up to six days.

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

PRO

F

* Y

SPO

N

FARM LA FOOD ND S

E

*

IL

CH

EF

SO

B RED

Photo by Michael Rutt

by Chef Katie Averill

Chef Marty Wells

W

hen you walk into Bad to the Bone, San Juan Capistrano, you are immediately struck with two things: the space is huge compared to what is expected walking in, and the customers look like they have sat in their seats many times before; there is an instant sense of familiarity. Co-owners Chef Marty Wells and Al Meyling have the monopoly on true American BBQ in Orange County. Their restaurant has tripled from its original size; and they would take over the entire plaza if it were available. In tough times like these, it is inspirational to know that restaurants still boom. In this Bad Bone BBQ world, the pair have mastered dining, take-out, and catering to create their success.

Straight from Oklahoma, Marty is a self taught chef (with a little help from his uncle) who joined a traveling rodeo for twenty years, one which covered 60,000 miles a year. He learned to cook on the road since eating out every meal was not an option. When he met his future wife in California, his traveling inevitably came to an end. So when it was time to settle down he turned to his second passion, BBQ. Bad to the Bone started as catering with a portable smoker and soon grew into a full blown restaurant in 2005.

I was lucky enough to get a tour of the kitchen where the smoking meats schedule is down to a science. They have two temperature-controlled, walk-in sized smokers that can hold 1,000 pounds of rotating meat at one time. Brisket and pork butt cook overnight; chicken, ribs, and tri-tip cook twice a day Continued on page 18

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

17

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

M A K E C O N TA C T

Bad To The Bone BBQ 27545 PASEO TOLUCA SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO, CA 92675 949-218-0227 WWW.BADTOTHEBONE-BBQ.COM SUN - THURS 11 AM - 9 PM FRI & SAT 11 AM - 10 PM

Chef Marty Wells 1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY: Cooking in the kitchen with my grandfather making potato soup at age 6.

in preparation for lunch and dinner. They also have a mesquite wood fed grill which takes constant attention. They go through 200 gallons of BBQ sauce a week; it’s Carolina style vinegar based sauce, not the overly sweet ketchup kind.

On your way out you can purchase their secret dry rub, original BBQ sauce, and their pepper sauce. Instead of marinating meat they have found that dry rub is the key. The meat gets “rubbed” and then it goes into the smoker. To top it off, Bad to the Bone even

What are the most popular signature dishes? For entrees it’s the pulled pork (amazing!), baby back ribs and 30-day aged tri-tip. The bar crowd favors the pulled pork nachos. Other favorites include the pinto baked beans which have chunks of brisket throughout, no corners cut. Mac and Cheese is another popular side dish, comfort food at its best.

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? Working on my parents Quarter Horse Ranch in Oklahoma WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? Always enjoyed cooking and felt when my rodeo career was complete I would like to open a restaurant.

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE: Ole Hickory Smoker/BBQ Pit

What are the most popular signature dishes? For entrees it’s the pulled pork (amazing!), baby back ribs and 30-day aged tri-tip. The bar crowd favors the pulled pork nachos. Other favorites include the pinto baked beans which have chunks of brisket throughout, no corners cut. Mac and Cheese is another popular side dish, comfort food at its best.

has their own beer label — Capistrano Brewing. Happy hour is from 3 pm - 6 pm weekdays with live music on the weekends so dining in-house is sure to be a good time.

We are lucky to have true BBQ this side of Texas and Oklahoma at Bad to the Bone.

When you’re in the mood for BBQ, nothing else will do. The line out the door speaks for itself.

CONDIMENT/SPICE: Cumin FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE: Dutch Oven SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE: Hickory Smoked Beef Brisket

Ranch Style Beans By: Marty Wells

FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT: Beach Fire 1 lb

Beef base

pot with water, enough to cover and bring to a

Yellow onion - chopped

boil and add beef base.

4

Cloves garlic - minced

Meanwhile, sauté onion and garlic in olive oil

1/4 C

Olive oil

until translucent; season with salt and pepper.

Salt and black pepper - to taste

Add onion mixture, cumin, chili powder,

1T

Cumin

granulated garlic, pepper, Liquid Smoke or

1T

Chili powder

brisket trimmings and hot sauce to beans and

1T

Granulated garlic

continue to simmer over medium heat for 1

OTHER EDUCATION: Oklahoma University PLACES TRAVELED TO EXPLORE & LEARN ADDITIONAL CUISINES: Traveled all over the United States and Canada while I was a Professional Rodeo Cowboy.

1/4 C

Liquid Smoke or brisket drippings

1/2 to 2 hours until beans are tender. Add

2T

Crystal Hot Sauce

BBQ sauce, brown sugar and salt; mix well

Brisket trimmings or any other

and continue to simmer until all ingredients

1/2 lb

WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE? Fresh, Authentic, Flavorful

18

www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

Soak beans overnight in water; drain and fill

1

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Garlic YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION: Self Taught

Pinto beans

leftover smoked meats

are mixed well and sugar is dissolved. Add salt

1/4 C

Brown sugar

and pepper to taste.

1C

BBQ sauce

THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE

Right Tool for the Job

by Paul Giannotti

t’s time to either replace or purchase an espresso machine. Where do you start? It can be very confusing once you discover the selections include semi-automatic, automatic, super automatic, super automatic with milk; one, two, and three group machines.

Are you pulling you hair out yet? Do you have 50 or 300 seats? Who’s going to operate the espresso machine? Servers,

I

espressos at a time.

The super automatic can make one or two at a time. Consider how many seats you have and who will make the drinks. If your restaurant has 50 seats a traditional one or two group would work. If you have a larger establishment and the servers are going to make their own drinks, a super automatic or a three group traditional may be right.

Make the right purchasing decision: guidelines to the best espresso machine for your operation. bartenders or a barista? What are the electrical, water and drain requirements?

Health department approval? How much do they cost? Have any hair left?

OK, let’s take a deep breath and walk through this, step by step.

The vast majority of restaurants use either a traditional automatic espresso machine or a super automatic espresso machine.

Traditional automatic espresso machines, the ones with portafilters or group handles (see photo), program the amount of espresso extracted. An espresso grinder is also needed, unless you’re using pods or capsules (pre-portioned, preground packets of espresso). The milk for cappuccinos or lattes is frothed manually.

This system requires more labor but once mastered, a drink can be made in a minute start to finish. It takes about 15 minutes to show someone how to make an espresso or cappuccino, which does not make them a barista by any means.

The super automatic espresso machine does everything with just the push of a button. Super automatics come with or without a milk system for foaming.

Traditional machines start at a lower cost (about $3000 for a one group) than super automatics (starting at about $9,000).

What are other differences to consider?

Traditional machines have up to four group heads (receptacles for handles) so it is possible to make two, three, four or more

The electrical requirement affects choice. Do you have only a 110 volt outlet or is a 220 volt outlet available? One group and some two groups are available in 110 volts; anything larger usually needs a 220 volt. Super automatics require 220 volts.

Typically, the company you purchase your espresso machine from will either have their own service techs or a relationship with a service company in your area to provide service. Make sure to ask who will install, provide your service and the hours and days they are available.

Health department approved? Although the espresso machine may be “NSF” or “ETL” certified it is important to make sure there are no additional certifications needed. For example, in Los Angeles espresso machines must also be approved by the city testing lab. The city approval will tell you if there are any other necessary conditions of approval. Again in Los Angeles, the installation of an “approved spring-loaded double check valve” is one condition of approval. Ask the company you’re purchasing from what approvals the machine has and if any other extras are needed.

NEXT ISSUE: Tips on maintenance and service.

Paul Giannotti is President of A TECH Espresso & Coffee Service, Inc. They consult, install, maintain and repair coffee and espresso machines. For more information, please call 323.720.1682 or visit www.atech-service.com.

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

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T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

LEDs Get a Green Light

by Thom Connolly

n improved economy has turned the financial tide for many businesses, including the hospitality industry.

Regardless of the state of revenues, restaurant and hotel owners and facility managers are constantly on the lookout for mechanisms to cut costs without sacrificing quality of service. One area that is often overlooked

A

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

in terms of budget trimming is lighting.

And that’s a shame since new technology can offer a simple solution to permanently reduce energy overhead.

Today, LED lighting is changing the way businesses look at signage. Generally speaking, LED signs cost about 10% less than comparable neon signs; but the total cost of purchase, operation and maintenance is quite significant. In fact, a recent comparison between the cost of a standard logo with 24 inch channel letters in neon and the same logo equipped with

sign that is clear and easy to read from a distance, even in bright sunlight, making them an effective form of advertising.

LED lighting has no fragile glass tubes that can break during transportation or installation and have no hazardous waste mercury disposal issues. Highly durable and brighter than neon, LED signs can last more than 50,000 hours. And LED signs can use as little as 10 watts, 6 to 10 times less than neon signs.

LED signage can also contribute to restaurant or hotel “branding.” LED

Save money and the environment by switching to LED lighting.

LED modules is a dramatic illustration in economics — the neon illumination came in at $286.56 annually, while the LED lighting cost $22.30 per year. For restaurants and hotels with multiple locations, switching to LED modules could translate into considerable savings.

LED lighting virtually eliminates the need for maintenance; this is a particularly vital aspect to a guest-driven industry, where a disruption in service is certain to have a negative impact.

While on the subject of driving in guests, consider this: LED signs have a much greater viewing distance, especially at night — allowing a facility’s message to reach more people for more hours of the day. LED message center technology can produce a

modules offer a variety of flashing, color and animation options since they are comprised of many separate small lights, as opposed to neon lighting’s continuous glass tube. As such, they can act as a “first impression” to new visitors, and be customized to correspond with a facility’s style and ambience.

The benefits of LED-based signage are many — from reduced energy consumption to low maintenance and long life; it is an illumination trend that is sure to remain in the spotlight.

Thom Connolly is President and CEO of International Light Technologies, a leading designer, manufacturer and distributor of lighting products and equipment based in Peabody, MA. www.intl-lighttech.com

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011 | great taste

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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

SoCal’s Best Wine Fest

by Chris Kern

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011

ou might think that gale-force winds and a tropical storm would not make for ideal outdoor wine tasting conditions, but judging by the numbers in attendance at last November’s San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival, you’d be wrong.

Y

The horizontal rain and unseasonably cold, Minnesota-like temperatures may have dampened the spirits of some tasters and scared away others (2010’s Festival attendance didn’t quite measure up to the record-breaking numbers in 2009), but that didn’t stop several thousand foodies, gourmets and wine lovers from donning their slickers, huddling around heat lamps, and braving the drippy edges of tents to sample 800-plus wines available at the 2010 Fest.

Having attended since 2008, this was the first year I could remember that Mother Nature decided to rain on the party (every previous year had been sunny and high 70’s), but the organizers have assured me that they are doing everything in their power to dis-invite her wrath from this upcoming November’s Festival.

In its eighth year, 2011, the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival has emerged as the must-attend culinary affair for any selfrespecting foodie in southern California, and the Festival itself has grown into much more than the single-day Grand Tasting that is the event’s cornerstone. Now the Festival kicks off on a Wednesday with the San Diego Wine Rave (November 16th for 2011), followed by two full days of celebrity cooking classes and wine appreciation events on Thursday and Friday. Finally it builds to a climax with the Grand Tasting Event on Saturday (this year November 20th) at the Embarcadero Park behind Seaport Village in downtown San Diego, featuring over 170 wineries and 70 different local restaurants.

The highlight of the Festival for me is the Reserve and New Release Tasting on Friday night. Scores of participating wineries save their best for first, pouring only their reserve, library or new release wines to a smaller, more wine-savvy crowd.

The Reserve Tasting is a terrific opportunity to not only taste the best wines each winery has to offer, but to chat up the owner or winemaker–usually the person pouring–and find out more about the process and story behind each wine. Plus, you don’t have to fight the larger crowds as at the Grand Tasting Event.

Here are a few of my personal highlights from last year’s Reserve Tasting: • Discussing the Edna Valley and emerging Santa Barbara vineyards with owners Gareth and Tom Conway of Deep Sea/Conway Family Wines while sipping their crisp Central Coast Chardonnay and exquisitely complex Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir.

• Learning about the inspiration behind and getting first crack at up-andcoming Paso winemaker Will Persall’s Spanish and Bordeaux wines at his WCP Cellars table.

• Working my way down the entire length of the Vins de Provence section, tasting rosé after glorious rosé from producers in Bandol, Cassis, Tavel, Lirac, and the Cotes de Provence (though this would have been even nicer at the Grand Tasting, had the weather cooperated).

Sounds like fun, doesn’t it? Trust me, you really don’t want to miss out on anything the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival has to offer in 2011. Tickets for all of the Festival’s events, including the Wine Rave and the cooking and wine appreciation classes, can be purchased online, www.worldofwineevents.com. And one last tip to the wine wise: it’s totally worth procuring the VIP tickets to the Grand Tasting. That first hour without the general public involved makes all the difference in the world!

Chris Kern is the owner and founder of online wine shop Chris Kern’s Forgotten Grapes (www.ForgottenGrapes.com) and the creator and host of the Sunday Night Chef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com).

E-mail him directly at chris@forgottengrapes.com.

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D AV I TA . C O M

Grilled Marinara & Cheese Sliders

Mission® tortilla products let you take traditional menu items in a whole new direction without completely reworking your back-of-house.

Which can help you consistently refresh your offerings and keep customers coming back. With authenticity. With originality.

With unmatched recipe support. Without Borders.™ Download recipes right now at www.missionfoodservice.com

©2011 Mission Foods, Inc. “Without Borders” is a trademark of Mission Foods, Inc.