TRUCK TRACKS 10 SEPTEMBER • OCTOBER 2011
CATERING 14
BEVERAGE BUSINESS 22
Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA
76
*%
of restaurant customers say beef is the most mouthwatering of all leading proteins. That’s crave appeal you can take to the bank.
For more mouthwatering beef recipes, nutrition information, wait staff sales tips, training guides, innovative menuing ideas and much more, contact: California Beef Council
*Source: Ipsos Public Affairs.
4640 Northgate Blvd., Suite 115 Sacramento, CA 95834 916.925.BEEF (2333) Phone 916.925.8155 Fax Foodservice@CalBeef.org www.CalBeef.org
ÂŽ
Foodservice Specific Information www.BeefFoodservice.com
Beef Profit-Building Ideas www.BeefProfitPower.com
Beef Production Information www.ExploreBeef.com
FROM THE EDITOR
T E R I’S TAK E eems like this huge industry just keeps getting smaller and smaller with every passing year. Perhaps it’s just that I know so many people that I “get” the connections and the history between people and companies. Check out the Beet, our news section and see if you make any connections. Many of you have worked for or with so many others that it’s almost incestuous. Hey, I said almost. Burning bridges is definitely not a good idea. That person that you don’t give a hoot about today may be the boss at that luxury property where you want to work tomorrow, or heaven forbid, that manager you blew off last year buys the company where you have your “dream job”. Whip up a cocktail from our website (we’ve got tons of recipes) and settle in for a good read. Happy Holidays!
S
CONTENT F E AT U R E S 1 4 CATERING: WHAT’S HOT, WHAT’S NEW 2 0 Find what the most successful caterers
17
REDISCOVER SOME OF GREAT TASTE’S
BACK OF THE HOUSE Maintaining your espresso machine
22
are dishing out
Content
BEVERAGES Tips for opening your own business
FAVORITES
INSIDE 4 THE BEET Find out who’s hot and new now while acknowledging all the greatness and philanthropy in this generous industry
5
BOOKS Local Chef Zov Karamardian shares luscious secrets from her kitchen
THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS
D E PA RT M E N T S 4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 BAKING RACK 7 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 7 FISH MARKET 7 SWEET SPOTS 8 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT 9 SPICE RACK 1 1 FOOD TRUCK FEVER 1 2 SUR LE MENU
Food truck catering
On The Cover
MORE THAN CHEFS
Celebrate the season with these delicious cocktails at The Bungalow in Corona del Mar. Bar Manager Eric Gulbrandson creates new martinis monthly. Guests are invited to name them and at the end of the month a winning name is chosen. The winner gets their name placed beside the drink name on the features chalk board and gets to have the martini for free on every visit for as long as the drink stays on the chalk board and/or the lounge menu. That could be a lot of martinis. In addition, Eric updates the entire cocktail menu quarterly with seasonal favorites. Give one of these lovely concoctions a try any season: Chocolate Martini-White Cream de Cocoa, Grey Goose Vodka with Ghiradelli Drizzle. Orange Aracini Martini-Alize Passion Fruit Liquor, Belvedere Vodka, fresh OJ, fresh lemonade, splash grenadine. Millionaire Margarita-Don Julio Clear Anejo, 100 year Grand Marnier, fresh lemon and lime. Check out website for our weekly promoted cocktail recipes. Photo by Michael Rutt
Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s
}
GABRIEL CALIENDO
ADAM NAVIDI
KATIE AVERILL
JASON STEIN
Corporate Executive Chef
Executive Chef
Corporate Pastry Chef
Executive Chef
Lazy Dog Cafe
Adam Navidi Catering &
Zōv’s Bistro,
Future Foods Farms
Café & Bakery
chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as
our Culinary Advisors.
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
3
THE
BEET
THE
BEET
INSIDE
PRODUCE
PICK C OF THE MONTH
Red Kuri Squash IT MAY LOOK LIKE A LITTLE PUMPKIN, but don’t go thinking that this fellow missed his chance to be Halloween decor. The Red Kuri Squash is a Japanese winter squash, found from September to December. Amidst the candy, pies and pot roasts, the Red Kuri Squash may just be the healthiest addition to your holiday feasting. The Red Kuri Squash has a creamy yellow flesh that is delicate, mellow, sweet and slightly nutty. It is a succulent addition to soups, stews, and casseroles. This squash is also good for baking bread, pies, and cookies. Bake it with apples, maple syrup, cinnamon, and nutmeg (among other things) for a healthful holiday pudding. Red Kuri Squash pairs well with fruity wines such as Pinot Noir and Gamay. The produce hunter has developed close relationships with small, local family farmers committed
to
sustainable
agriculture,
personable production, and propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com
4
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011
Ahmed Labbate serve up a variety of dishes ompetition is good, or so they say. in a warm space designed to I’ve heard two lift your spirits while enjoying opinions about the appetizers, small plates, latest two restaurants entrees or Chef’s tasting menu in Laguna — in the space that was Chef situated just yards Michael Kang’s 5 Feet. from each other. Broadway by Three Seventy Common Amar Santana and Three Seventy Ahmed Labbate & Amar Santana Kitchen+Drink, the muchCommon Kitchen+Drink. Some anticipated new restaurant think that a healthy rivalry from Chef Ryan Adams, is has been born and others feel slated to open in mid-October that it could get ugly. I think and offers a farm-to-table menu it’s “game on” and each will served in a convivial, energized have to keep standards up to setting. Adams’ new venture keep the Laguna crowd happy. takes over the spot of Broadway by Amar Santana Mitch Gillan & longtime Laguna Beach opened to rave reviews and a Ryan Adams mainstay Sorrento Grille, full book of reservations. which closed its doors Aug. 31. Amar and his partners, Rich Cadarette and
THE
BEET INSIDE
THE
SINCE 2000
BEET
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Paul Giannotti Suzanna Hoang Chris Kern Linda Mensinga Chef Adam Navidi Chef Jason Stein
ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net
ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net
BOOKS
dentity Management Group (Sutra owners) recently purchased Ten Asian Bistro and its nightclub 8eighty8 (now renamed Ten Nightclub). Proprietor Richard Kelly with managing Partner Antony Adel are excited to see their new venue grow under the new management team and Executive Chef Wendie Huffman. ITRIYA Cafe, Spaghetti & Ssam is the 21st Century’s bold answer to classic spaghetti or noodle restaurants. Acclaimed restaurateur Howard Gordon of Cheesecake Factory fame along with fiancé and renowned fashion designer
I
Jenny Lee have combined food and fashion to usher in a fresh era and new twist on popular comfort food, attractive to every ethnicity in a relaxed and fun atmosphere. The re-brand of Taleo Grill as Taleo Mexican Fusion Restaurant Lounge is the latest venture restaurateur Moe Ghazi is adding to his portfolio of successful restaurants and late night lounge concepts. Irvine-based Yard House Restaurants (YHR) will open eight new restaurants within the next 12 months and reach the 40 unit mark.
BOOKS
ell-respected veteran of Orange County’s food scene, chef and restaurant owner Zov Karamardian recently published her second cookbook Simply Zov: Rustic Classics with a Mediterranean Twist. Karamardian’s heartfelt love for her family and extended restaurant family is revealed on many of the nearly 400 pages filled with memories of days at work and at home. She makes sure that cooks of all levels are comfortable. Thorough descriptions introduce her pantry of most-used spices, grains, and produce. Simply Zov is a mouth-watering collection of gloriously bright, detailed photographs and simple-to-follow Mediterranean-Armenian-American recipes. A great story teller, Karamardian begins each chapter with a short, anecdotal prologue, followed by words of encouragement. Cooking, in her view, should be fun and shared with loved ones. This cookbook is filled with “Zov-infused” classics: from fluffy buttermilk biscuits and cinnamon rolls to Aleppo pepper-infused lamb stew; puff-pastry encased layers of spinach, bell peppers, ham and cheese in a Torte Milanese to Quince Citrus Coffee Cake and Choreg, a popular Armenian sweet bread. To purchase this book and many others, please visit www.great-taste.net.
W
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
5
INSIDE
THE BAKING
RACK by Chef Katie Averill
BRAVO FOOD TRUCKS! CHEFS ARE THE TOUGHEST PEOPLE I KNOW. The churning within a restaurant is an endless cycle of starting each morning with close to nothing, preparing food all day long, then getting obliterated at night — only to do it all again the next day still maintaining a level of CARING beyond compare. We belong to a small community of creative “artists” who CHOOSE to sweat all day and night, work more on holidays and weekends, kiss our loved ones in passing, listen to a customer complain and then thank them; we must be masochists. I know I’m not the only one whose family (i.e. parents) are perpetually bewildered and asking at what point I might “get a life” (in the nicest possible way, I’m sure). It must be passion. Given the already grueling lifestyle, it is not much of a stretch that chefs are drawn to food trucks. Many a chef considers a food truck. Each one of us ultimately wants to be “boss free”. With less start up cost than a restaurant, trucks tempt us. The reality of life on the move weeds out all but a hearty few. Add in driving, moving at the drop of a dime, figuring out where you are in relation to buying ingredients, constantly searching for the next hot venue and always praying for a crowd. This is enough to eliminate me. I am out. I want to commend you food truckies! After four plus years with Great Taste, I digress from a baking subject for the first time, just to acknowledge your exceedingly challenging hard work. A few OC food trucks do call on me to make desserts for them because although dessert is the last thing chef/owners want to think about, let’s face it, sometimes people want something sweet at the end of a meal. I happily make these sweets and claim this as my contribution to the food truck world. Only one request, the next time you drive by, slow down long enough so I have a fighting chance to get them on board! Contact Chef Katie Averill at KDCOOKS@aol.com.
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www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011
INSIDE
Cheese Pick of the Month The Fish Market
WINCHESTER SUPER AGED GOUDA THE WINCHESTER SUPER AGED GOUDA IS A MORE REFINED CHEESE THAN REGULAR GOUDA. Aged for a
by Chef Jason Stein
year, about ten months longer than normal Gouda, it is both sharper and drier, with crumbly bits of nutty caramel flavor that, turn to tiny granules of intense flavor as it ages. Owner Jules Wesselink brought his Holland heritage to California in order to create this ‘Boere Kaas’ (home made on the farm) cheese sensation. The Super Aged Gouda pairs well with
DUNGENESS CRAB FLORIDIANS
INSIST
STONE
Burgundy, or hearty red wines such as Merlot and Shiraz. CRAB,
Made from cow milk, Winchester Super Aged Gouda has a
MARYLANDERS LOVE THEIR SOFT SHELLS
plasticoat, inedible rind. Try it with fruit, wheat breads, in
AND
sandwich melts, or in hors d’oeuvres with ham or chicken.
ALASKANS
ON
similarly aged white wines, such as Chardonnay and White
FLAUNT
THEIR
LONG
LEGGED KINGS. But ask any Californian and
Please visit our website www.great-taste.net for a
they will tell you the sweet, abundant meat of our
Dutch Grilled Cheese sandwich recipe made with
indigenous crab is the best. The Dungeness crab
caramelized onions and cumin.
is named after Dungeness, Washington, which is located 15 miles east of Port Angeles and can be
For more information on Winchester Super Aged Gouda, Winchester cheeses, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
found between Alaska’s Aleutian Islands and Point Conception, California. Many crab aficionados consider the best tasting Dungeness crab caught in California to be from the San Francisco Bay area. These crabs have the best flavor and texture. About one quarter of the crab’s weight is meat. Dungeness
SWEET SPOT
by Suzanna Hoang
Pumpkin Apricot Muffins with Pine Nut Streusel
crabs can typically be purchased live or cooked. Larger crabs are valued for their higher meat to
FOR ME, NOTHING EXUDES COMFORT AND
1/2 t
Kosher salt
shell ratio. Dungeness crabs can be simply
COZINESS LIKE PUMPKINS incorporated into an
1/4 C
All purpose flour
cooked by steaming for 15 to 18 minutes or by
abundance of recipes for autumn. This pumpkin
1/2 C
boiling for 10 minutes in water.
bread recipe baked in the form of muffins has just
(1 stick) Unsalted butter, melted, cooled slightly
The best way to enjoy Dungeness crab is to
the right amount of sweetness, finished with a
steam live, chill on ice, crack the meat out of the
glorious crumbly topping. The secret to the crunchy
PUMPKIN MUFFINS
shell and dip into butter or a spicy homemade
streusel topping is pre-baking and the added zing to
2 1/2 C
All purpose flour
cocktail sauce. Not only is Dungeness crab
pine nut muffin top comes from a pinch of coarse
2t
Baking powder
delicious it is also sustainable. Seafood Watch
salt. Additionally, chopped dried apricots stirred into
1t
Salt
has given Dungeness crab a sustainable seafood
the batter give this muffin a moist heartiness. Bake
2t
Cinnamon
rating of “Best Choice.”
up a batch of these lovelies to munch on with your
1t
Ground ginger
morning cup of coffee!
1/2 t
Allspice
1/4 t
Nutmeg
Crabbing is a lot of fun and an inexpensive way to get out and enjoy a day on the water with the added reward of catching a great meal. Many
PUMPKIN APRICOT MUFFINS WITH
1/4 t
Ground cloves
people rent boats and drop baited crab traps into
PINE NUT STREUSEL
3/4 C
(1 1/2 sticks) Butter - melted
the muddy sand on the bottom of the ocean.
Yields: 20 muffins or 2 8 1/2” x 4 1/2” loaf pans
1C
Granulated sugar
After waiting an hour or more they pull up traps
Preheat oven to 375 degrees
1C
Light brown sugar
and can have a dozen or more crabs to enjoy.
PINE NUT STREUSEL
3
Eggs - large
Only male crabs may be harvested and must
1C
Pine nuts
1 Can
(15 oz or 1 3/4 C) Pumpkin puree
measure 6 inches in width to keep. Recreational
1/4 C
Light brown sugar
1C
Dried apricots - optional
Dungeness crab season starts November 5 and
1/2 C
Granulated sugar
commercial fishing starts November 15.
1/2 t
Cinnamon
Continued on page 9
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
7
INSIDE
TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT
The Funny Farm *“I once had thoughts of tearing down my house
around with different soils, amendments, nutrients
getting my sustainable restaurant concept off the
and building a garden it its’ place. I would have no
etc. I was spending most of my time, outside of
ground. I officially added farmer to my resume
shelter but I would have a better understanding
cooking, picking weeds, setting up irrigation
today during my meeting with the USDA Organic
and knowledge of how things grow.”
systems, and dealing with bug and mold issues.
certifiers at my new Future Foods Farms! I wanted
Soon, I was harvesting some phenomenal produce!
to call it the “funny farm” since we grow foods in
THE PAST
I could grow certain items well, others not so well.
ways no one has ever seen before, but those in my
In 1998, I had the honor to work/train/hang with
So I started playing around with other growing
wolf pack thought it would be wiser to talk about
Michelin-starred Chef Jean-Louis Palladin during a
methods as a hobby science project in my
the future then discuss my past.
tour of the new CIA Greystone garden in Napa
backyard.
Valley. He said “A great chef must find the best
This new farm originated in my genetics: from the family tree green thumb to the years of
ingredients possible and build a relationship with
FAST FORWARD
persistence it has taken me to gain some expertise,
those farmers and purveyors!”
For the last three years, I’ve been jumping through
from my small backyard science projects (the
From then on, part of the success of my private
hoops trying to find a city that would allow me to
neighbors thought I HAD LOST IT), to the 25-acre
catering company has been in the details, the main
build a bio-sphere behind a restaurant/commercial
sustainable, perma-culturally designed farm. Being
one being either growing or procuring the best
space so I could show off my state-of-the-art
both the chef and the farmer means my plate is
ingredients possible. Many catering companies and
growing methods. I chewed thru $60,000 in
always full. It also brings me closer to the food I
restaurants are still not going to this length for their
designs, permits etc. in three locations in three
prepare and serve my guest. The food I consume
clients!
different cities. Even with support from the state
gives me the energy to strive for more.
In the beginning I made the drive down to farms
senate on down to city mayors, health departments,
I believe someday great chefs will be known not
in San Diego or cruised to the Santa Monica
sheriffs, college professors and current land
only by the recipes and methods they cook with,
Farmers Market to pick up fresh items. Before long
owners, nothing. All three locations had the extra
but by the recipes and methods with which they
I was spending more time sitting in traffic then I
space, adequate parking and huge potential, yet
grow their food.
was cooking, so I started talking to farmers about
each time there was some BS zoning law that
If you aren’t growing your own food yet, then I
shipping boxes to me overnight. At that time I was
crushed my carefully crafted croquembouche.
recommend taking Jean Louis’ advice, and build
fortunate because the economy was good and I had
Getting tired of city planners not knowing what to
relationships with local farmers you can rely on. I’m
great clients who would pay the extra $$$ for fresh
make of my concept, it was time for me to climb
hoping over the next couple of months to get a
healthy products. I didn’t mind the extra work
out of the fry box and get back to the basics.
team together that can give tours and classes at our
because I knew I was getting the best ingredients
Again, I was dealing with the politics involved.
possible. Once the news got out about these
When you’re innovative, you spend more time
will find in professional kitchens, so I think
farmers and their special services, competition
talking to monkeys in space suits then you do
everyone will find some cool ideas at the farm!
began to increase and prices to rise.
pushing buttons and launching rockets!
So, I thought, why not build a garden in my own
8
by Chef Adam Navidi
Future Foods Farms. Most of the items we grow you
*Adam wrote this for a spring menu when he worked for Hyatt Huntington Beach. He writes
backyard, learn everything I can, and then try to
THE FUTURE
quotes for every menu. “It’s what inspires me,” he
find more land down the road? I started playing
Recently I’ve been making small steps toward
said.
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011
INSIDE
The Spice Rack
Continued from page 7
salt, cinnamon, ground ginger, allspice, nutmeg, and
STREUSEL
ground cloves. In a separate bowl, blend butter and
Put the pine nuts, sugars, cinnamon, salt, and flour
sugars until just smooth. Add eggs and blend until
in a food processor. Pulse to chop the nuts. Slowly
just incorporated. Gradually mix in dry ingredients
add the butter, pulsing until you have pea-sized
and apricots. Fill muffin tins about 3/4 full with the
pieces. Spread onto baking pan and bake about 15
batter. Top the batter with an even amount of
minutes until just lightly browned. Put aside to cool.
streusel, pressing it just slightly to stick onto the
Once muffin batter is finished, break up cooled
batter.
streusel into small crumbles.
by Chef Gabriel Caliendo
Bake for about 23-25 minutes, or until a toothpick
THE WHEEL DEAL ON SPICES
PUMPKIN BATTER
or wooden skewer inserted in the middle of the
Whisk dry ingredients together: flour, baking powder,
muffin comes out clean.
IT DOESN’T MATTER WHERE YOU ARE COOKING,
SPICES
ARE
THE
KEY
TO
SUCCESS in creating delicious and memorable food. This is especially true when operating a gourmet food truck. Food trucks have limited space and resources, yet are selling their goods to hungry patrons, who expect the same flavorful foods they would get at an upscale restaurant. I talked with three local Orange County gourmet food truck owners to get their take on how spices influence their rolling rigs. Seabirds Food Truck is an Orange County first. One Seabirds specialty is the green jackfruit tacos. The jackfruit is fairly flavorless on its own, but by seasoning it in different ways, they are able to create globally-inspired varieties of tacos. Examples of seasonings used are: Jalfrezi and Jamaican Jerk. Next stop: Lime Truck. Their Lamb Sandwich that is seasoned with Middle Eastern spices; and the Hanger Steak taco are marinated in a Pilipino Tocino spice blend containing sugar and red chile flakes. Also notable is the 10 hour slow-cooked Carnitas that are seasoned with Achiote spice and orange juice. Final stop on the tour: Chef Joe Youkhan’s Tasting Spoon. He uses his Tuscan Garlic Herb blend to season many items on the menu, from pizza dough and sandwiches to burgers and fries. His screaming good 4 Chile Espresso Rub is used to cook the Tasting Spoon’s pork belly. This pork belly is then used to make a few different impressive dishes, such as the PBL&T (Pork Belly, Lettuce, and Tomato sandwich,) a Carbonara Pizza, and the upgraded Fois Gras PBL&T. Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the Vice President of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
9
TRENDS
P Rolling In
ersonality and bold flavors make
try new things,” says Stephanie Morgan, Seabirds
gourmet food trucks the latest and
owner. Her truck markets healthy, light vegan
greatest addition to the catering
dishes.
world. “The
Catering from a food truck by Linda Mensinga
A truck allows Rodriguez to change his menu Elvis,”
peanut
butter
depending on location. “We menu tested. People
cookies, banana foster ice cream
in Los Angeles and some parts of Long Beach
topped with “warm” smoked candied bacon is the
have different tastes than people in Dana Point
latest “boo-yah!” from Chunk-n-Chip Cookies
and Laguna Beach. We notice in the LA area
food truck owned and run by Claudia Gonzalez.
people tend to like comfort type food, not as
“Menage au Trois,” from the Flavor Rush by Alex
adventurous as parts of Orange County. We sold a
Rodriguez consists of three sliders: one with
lot of chili cheese fries and taco dishes. Our
roasted lamb, the second with braised short ribs
rotisserie lamb and duck sold really well in south
in red wine and the third with roast pork, pulled
county areas.”
“The truck is so much easier; you drive in and drive out–no set-up required. All your supplies are on the truck which means no carrying items back and forth from a kitchen or car.” — Claudia Gonzales and seasoned. Rancho a Go Go by Chris Rocke
“In our first year of business we were really
serves “Porky Mac,” homemade mac n’ cheese
excited and went wild with our ingredients and
smothered in pulled pork. Just the lighthearted
pushed the boundaries,” says Daniel Shemtob,
names and descriptors generate an appetite, or at
owner of the Lime Truck. “This year we are
the very least a craving!
focusing
more
on
local
ingredients
and
No surprise these gourmet food trucks are in
showcasing them properly.” The Lime Truck
demand. A group of busy gourmet food truck
reinvents California beach cuisine with ahi tuna
owner/operators discussed catering from a truck,
poke, slow roasted pork tacos and “Jane’s
the benefits and challenges, hot sellers and plans
Addiction Quesadilla”.
for the future. Trucks allow direct contact with guests as well as a way to express their individual
CHALLENGES
food philosophies and personalities.
The biggest headache? “SPACE! Not enough of it. If you want to make a vegetable ragu for 100
Beer Battered Avocado Tacos, Seabirds
10
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011
ON THE GOOD SIDE
guests you need a lot of boxes of raw product to
They can be anywhere at any time. One obvious
wash, process, cook and store,” Joe Youkhan of
advantage food trucks have for catering is easy
Tasting Spoon comments, “It takes a lot of
mobility. “The truck is so much easier; you drive
understanding of the product and how long it
in and drive out–no set-up required. All your
takes to get ready.”
supplies are on the truck which means no carrying
“Not much storage, every square inch is
items back and forth from a kitchen or car,” says
utilized,” echoes Rodriguez who adds another
Gonzales.
hurdle, “Getting food out in a timely manner. Just
Another bonus, “Fresher options. We can
like a regular restaurant, only we have a smaller
prepare on site as opposed to prepped ahead and
window. We place servers outside the truck to
transported warm,” Rocke, who’s known for
expedite service to big groups, along with the
authentic “low and slow” barbeque, notes.
condiments, napkins, etc.”
Flexibility and quick response to customer
Rocke finds meeting expectations of diverse
demand are another benefit truck owners enjoy. “I
groups a challenge. “Everybody has their idea of
love the ability to change our menu quickly and
what BBQ is.”
TRENDS SLAM DUNKS
playfully titled winners include: MOO-lan Rouge,
COMING SOON
Following his triple slider Ménage à trios, Rodriguez
red velvet cookies with white chocolate fudge ice
Tasting Spoon: More seafood and fall dishes, braised
says, “Our arancini is a big hit, a traditional risotto
cream; Cuba Libre, snicker doodle cookies with
items.
ball stuffed with cheese and floated on homemade
guava and goat cheese ice cream; and Gilligan’s
Flavor Rush: Soups, pasta with shrimp and scallops
marinara sauce. A close third is the abalone and
Island, lemon zest cookies with lemon grass ginger
in a basil and homemade tomato sauce.
scallops, we affectionately call ‘Mermaids Delight,’”
ice cream.
Seabirds: Special diet options such as gluten-, soy-
“Beer Battered Avocado Tacos, always. Also people
“Carnitas fries: 12 hour pulled pork with a
are loving our weekly farm fresh salads,” says
homemade chipotle-honey cabbage, guacamole, sour
Morgan.
cream and a bit of cotija to top it off, all on top of
salt potato chips drizzled with white chocolate, warm
the fries. The tenderness of the pork compliments
smoked candied bacon, spiced chocolate sauce.
“I sell a lot of pork belly, which makes me happy!” Youkhan says. Gonzales sells artisan ice cream sandwiches. Her
and nut-free dishes; raw desserts. Chunk-n-Chip Cookies: Added toppings such as sea
the crispiness of the fries and the rest is history,”
Rancho a Go Go: Beef brisket chili, porky beans and
Shemtob describes his most ordered item.
cornbread, smoked chicken tortilla soup and BBQ spaghetti.
Food Truck Fever: Slapfish Chef Andrew Gruel
SlapFish 908.963.4150 www.slapfishsocal.com
WHAT IS A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR YOU? On a food truck you will work more than in a restaurant because you have to take into consideration shopping, loading and prepping every day. My day starts at 6 am and end many nights at 1 am. WHAT IS YOUR AVERAGE CHECK? $11 per person. HOW MANY CUSTOMERS DO YOU SERVE IN A TYPICAL DAY/WEEK? 750-800 per week. WHAT KINDS OF GREEN PRACTICES HAVE YOU IMPLEMENTED? We use compostable plates, forks, etc, save our melted ice water to water plants, and use solar battery charged chargers on the truck for small appliances. IS THERE ANY NEGATIVE FEELING FROM LOCAL RESTAURANTS? We stay away from restaurants, hence the empty parking lots and back alleys.
SLAPFISH, A SEAFOOD TRUCK, CREATED BY PARTNERS CHEF ANDREW
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY ABOUT CONTACT WITH THE PUBLIC?
GRUEL AND JETHRO NAUDE chose the food truck setting for its advantages
People who eat at food trucks love to eat. They are there for a reason, and not
in the current economy. “It is much easier to bring the ‘restaurant’ to the
because they needed to grab some sustenance. They are true foodies and all have
customer than wait for them to come to you,” said Gruel.
a story to tell.
Gruel’s commitment to sustainable seafood is truly heartfelt and equal to
WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT THE TRUCK VS A RESTAURANT? THE
his expertise. Before SlapFish he was director of Seafood for the Future at the
WORST THING?
Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach, assisting chefs in developing seafood
The best thing about the truck vs. a restaurant is the mobility, the opportunity
menus with sustainable choices.
to be a in a new place every day attracting a new clientele. Also, the marketing
Slapfish makes the freshest restaurant quality seafood available at food
power of a rolling billboard that cooks is the best marketing in the world! The
truck prices with menu items such as their Lobsticle, Tower Of Tuna, and
worst part is storage and mechanical issues. I tell people, take the stress of a
“Because We Have To” Fish Taco. They shop twice a day and source much of
restaurant and add traffic and mechanical issues.
their product directly and locally from American Tuna (San Diego) and Carlsbad
HOW IS FOOD TRUCK FOOD DIFFERENT FROM RESTAURANT FOOD?
Aquafarm (Carlsbad), for seafood served at the peak of freshness and flavor.
Fewer items and the flavors have to be bold and somewhat in your face. Spicy,
HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE NAME?
acidic, hot, and finger ready. People also want large portions. The “amuse”
We love onomatopoeia (words that imitate a sound). We want people to “hear”
style of food doesn’t fly on a food truck.
the fresh fish slapping around on the dock and the name matches our
DO YOU HAVE ANY LOYALTY PROGRAMS IN PLACE?
character and sense of humor. We like to slap things.
We have a Slap Me card. After 10 purchases on your card the 11th meal is
WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES OF THE SMALL KITCHEN SIZE?
free.
The petite kitchen forces us to cook fresh and simple, using few ingredients,
DO YOU WANT TO HAVE A RESTAURANT SOME DAY?
but packing as much flavor as possible. Add a dash of citrus, some crunch and
We have already signed a lease on a spot set to open early 2012 called
its own natural juices.
SlapFish Test Kitchen.
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
11
SUR LE MENU
Cocktails onsidering the celebratory season is upon us some cocktail ideas are in order. Bartender/mixologists keep the crowds happy by making the standards and creating new drinks with innovative techniques, infusions, and lively garnishes. The professionals are clearly having fun experimenting with all the flavored spirits available and their own imaginations. Try one or more of these at home and serve your favorites at your next get-together. The complete recipes are online. www.great-taste.net/category/recipes/weekly-cocktail/
C
Silver Trumpet – Costa Mesa Avant Garden – violet liqueur, vodka, fresh lemon juice.
Montage Hotel – Laguna Beach Ginger Gin Ricky – Genever gin, limes, simple syrup, ginger beer, soda.
label, Jim Beam Red Stag black cherry infused bourbon, sweet vermouth, angostura bitters.
Applebee’s – Various Locations Berry Sangria – Sutter Home® Cabernet, DeKuyper Razzmatazz®, orange and cranberry juices and fresh–squeezed orange and lime.
Katsuya – Laguna Beach Katsuya Fresh – vodka, cucumber, lime juice, simple syrup.
Brennan's Jazz Kitchen – Downtown Disney, Anaheim Southern Peach Sweet Tea – Jeremiah Weed Sweet Tea Vodka, Peachtree Schnapps, lemonade.
Haven Gastropub – Orange Cherry Thyme – Michter’s rye whiskey, cherry juice, simple syrup, thyme sprigs, maraschino cherry. RA Sushi – Huntington Beach and Tustin Coconut mojito – mint, coconut vodka, pineapple juice, cream of coconut, soda. Simply Fondue – Mission Viejo Death by Chocolate Martini – chocolate vodka, Godiva liqueur, Godiva White Chocolate liqueur, Kahlua, Bailey’s, Frangelico, cream. Tommy Bahama – Newport Beach Frost Bite – rum, triple sec, sour mix, raspberry liqueur. Hapa J’s – Dana Point Ginger Cosmo – ginger infused vodka, Triple Sec, fresh ginger, lime juice, white cranberry juice.
12
Royal Hawaiian – Laguna Beach Lapu Lapu – light rum, orange juice, pineapple juice, passion fruit juice, dark rum. Islands – Various Locations Margarita Lite – Patron Silver, agave nectar, lime juice Triple Sec, only 290 calories. Nello Cucina – Costa Mesa Peach martini – peach flavored vodka, peach schnapps, sweet & sour. Kabuki Japanese Restaurant – Huntington Beach Pink Ribbon Saketini – Nigori sake, cranberry juice, strawberry mix. Nello Cucina – Costa Mesa Peach martini – peach flavored vodka, peach schnapps, sweet & sour. Renaissance Long Beach Hotel – Long Beach Red Stag Manhattan – Jim Beam white
www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011
Sol Cocina – Newport Beach Strawberry Kiwi Margarita – Don Julio Blanco Tequila, strawberries, kiwi, agave nectar and lime juice. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar – Newport Beach The Stiletto – gin, blackberries, lime juice, diet ginger ale, only 99 calories! Pizzeria Ortica – Costa Mesa Venetian Monk – tequila, lime juice, fresh blackberries. Matador Cantina – Fullerton Venus in Furs – Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum, peach bitters, angostura bitters, sweet & sour. Spaghettini – Seal Beach Xellent Tiramisu Martini – Xellent Swiss Vodka, Tiramisu Italian Liqueur, Baileys Irish Cream, Starbucks Coffee Liqueur, half & half, cinnamon, chocolate syrup.
SUR LE MENU
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
13
Susan Irby serves quinoa, a healthy grain from the Andes region of South America.
C at e r i n g :
W h at ’ s h o t, W h at ’ s n e W by Linda Mensinga
I
nsights, solutions and menu hits are second nature for the talented caterers we surveyed. They make special events happen for happy clients and willingly shared the latest menus, marketing techniques and tips on how to please guests. Caterers continually update menus and services to meet guest requests and expectations. Menus that range from box lunches to seven course dinners are customized to fit the client’s budget and desires.
TRENDS “We love that food trends are ever-changing and enjoy embracing new ideas,” says Lauren Kenson of Waters Fine Catering in San Diego. “The most frequent requests have been for the multiple course family style tasting menus we offer. We also receive requests for healthconscious, locally sourced, and seasonally available ingredients.” All caterers prefer to use local, organic/sustainable, and seasonal ingredients when
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www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011
F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E possible. Organic comes with a heftier price tag but some clients insist that it is well worth the financial expenditure. “Our clients are more food savvy than ever and often ask where the item is grown or produced,” Jan DeMarzo, Vice President of Off-Premise Catering in Philadelphia, noted. “A ‘salad’ is no longer a ‘salad’ but a work of art that includes organic greens from certified farms, local cheeses that are produced from grass fed animals, and fruits and vegetables that have not been exposed to chemicals.” She also mentioned the move to action stations and passed small plate menus rather than formal sit downs. “In prior years we found traditional carving, pasta, and salad stations were on every menu. Those have been replaced with Brazilian Churrascaria stations, tapas Spanish small plates or appetizers, vegan stations or Korean barbeque stations.” Chef Gregory Kalatsky of Chef
Wine glasses add great visual appeal to fresh berries by Chef Gregory Kalatsky.
Gregory’s Gourmet Catering in Dana Point is seeing a growth in healthy organic cuisine requests for people with bigger budgets. Also, “My clients know that I am a fabulous pit master for bbq pork products and a great sauce creator too.” Paul Buchanan of Primal Alchemy in Long Beach, in business 22 years, regularly gets request for healthy and organic menus. In addition, he notes the growth of box lunch orders for casual events, and demand for “Unique, individual rolls of cake in different flavors that are assembled into a stacked wedding, birthday, or anniversary cake.” Mini foods, mini dessert bars, and also three course meals are popular at Bayside Restaurant Catering in Newport Beach according to Catering Director Cameron Mealey. Director of Sales & Marketing for 24 Carrots - Catering & Events in Irvine Laura Fabian also sees a continued demand for mini foods. “We are consistently creating new ‘mini’ versions of classic comfort foods with a twist,” she said. A crowd treat at her Continued on page 16
ChEf fAVORITEs DESSERT TRENDS Gregory Kalatsky: Fresh fruit with a little Chantilly cream, berries on mascarpone, chocolate puddle brownies on a stick dunked in white chocolate with toppings. Jan DeMarzo: New unusual house made ice creams, sorbets and gelato desserts such as Thai basil orange sorbet, goat cheese ice cream with lavender and honey, and potato chip gelato; comfort food desserts — Twinkie bread pudding, chocolate chip cookies. Laura Fabian: Salted caramel: salted caramel cupcakes, salted caramel & chocolate tarts and salted caramel drizzle. Susan Irby: Desserts with a savory element such as fresh rosemary or mint; red velvet cake and
Salted Caramel Cupcakes
designer cupcakes. soups, broths, salsas and different appetizers.
Susan Irby: I love the bison sliders. Not only are
FAVORITE NEW ITEM
Jan De Marzo: Heirloom tomatoes combined with sea
they flavorful, but bison is the leanest meat in the
Paul Buchanan: Locally grown delicate seaweed for
salts such as black lava rock sea salt topped with fig
food chain so they are very “bikini”!
seafood dishes that are hand harvested further
balsamic and organic micro basil; pink grapefruit,
Laura Fabian: Mini coconut grilled cheese; creamy
north up the California coast. We have seaweed
Meyer lemon and lychee fresh fruit ice pops; crème
mixture of provolone and coconut jam, grilled and
salads with seared or almost raw fish preparations,
fraiche ice cream — I could go on forever!
topped with lime-soaked jalapeños.
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E Continued from page 15 events is liquid nitrogen. “We did an event where we dropped kettle corn into liquid nitrogen. When guests pop it in their mouth, they breathe out cold steam. It is always fun and HUGE hit at Bar or Bat Mitzvah’s.” Erika Reardon echoed the trend to petite, “So far it seems like a repeat — mini everything, cocktail style meals and small plates, especially mini desserts. We all overindulge over the holiday eating season, so minis make sense.” She observed, “It’s still all about budgets and not looking over the top, so one wow item and the rest a bit more filler. For example beef Wellington bites with a bruschetta bar.” Reardon, based in Huntington Beach, recently closed her catering service and now only offers “What’s for Dinner?” home meal replacement service. “Theme parties are very popular, even holiday themes within the theme,” said Susan Irby the Bikini Chef. “Because I am the Bikini Chef, most of my clients look for a balance of traditional favorites that are not always light fare but with a ‘bikini’ twist. One signature cocktail as opposed to having a full bar, and the signature cocktails themselves are becoming a meal with the use of large slices (of fruit) or red bell pepper or beef jerky being served in the cocktail as a garnish,” said the Bikini Chef. Still in demand are crab cakes, minisliders, and pureed soups in shot glasses. What’s new and different? “Bison and buffalo instead of beef are in sliders, and sweet potato fries with added spice.” Irby’s moniker Bikini markets directly to the ongoing movement to healthy menus. “Our culture has changed over the years and healthy is in. If our clients splurge on a rich dessert — they look for a lighter first course and entrée. We see a lot of ‘bargaining’ going on internally with our clients who may love butter and cream but recognize that their guests may have more heart healthy diets,” says DeMarzo. In contrast, Reardon quips, “It’s the holidays, calories don't count!” PRESENTATION Presentation is as important as the actual food for many caterers and clients. The decoration may depend on the menu theme, items selected, or event. Self serve, action, and fully staffed stations should be planned to facilitate flow as well as add energy. “There are so many types of creative designs for plates, bowls, glasses — all shapes, sizes, and colors. These make presentation easy. With the right tools, the simplest of dishes look beautiful and exciting to eat,” Irby points out. DeMarzo prefers, “Clean, simple lines that enhance, rather than overshadow the food. We work with decorators that understand our priorities. For us it is about the food.” MARKETING As in any business, caterers reach out to past clients and try to build new ones in continuing marketing efforts. All have websites with menus, photos, venue possibilities, services offered, and other information. Emails, Facebook, newsletters, and phone calls are also employed, often months ahead, as reminders for clients to begin
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holiday plans. As Reardon reminds, “There are only so many Saturdays in the month!” Fabian offers specials for early bookings in June through her website, print ads and Facebook. “Around September we start switching out our ads to a “holiday” theme to spark interest. This acts as a reminder to start thinking about their upcoming event,” she said. “I call regulars and send out holiday ideas in a newsletter months ahead,” said Buchanan. DeMarzo also offers incentives for clients who book early starting in summer. “Often our exclusive venues extend a facility rental discount and we enhance the deal with a complimentary dessert station or specialty cocktail bar upgrade. For big spending clients and spotlight events, we have even provided gift cards to our affiliate restaurants as a gift for each guest who attends.” In addition to most of the above, Reardon gives discounts to repeat customers. Irby also reaches out to past clients but in addition, “I contact businesses that I work with on a regular basis to discuss their holiday needs which usually extends to both personal and business events.” ORGANIZATION, COST, AND CHALLENGES Caterers have to be expertly organized; they shared some of the things to consider when planning an event. “The guest list is an important consideration. Action stations require guests to go to the station rather than be served tableside, and if the group is elderly this may be problematic,” DeMarzo said. “The number of stations and the menu selections will be influenced by the budget and client’s expectation. There is often an assumption that buffets or “stations” are less expensive. Based on menu selections, the price of stations/buffets is often higher than sit down dinners.” The arrangement of stations, etc. is equally important. “Stage your stations to maximize the flow of traffic and avoid a large gathering, at the bar for example. You want to provide ease of access. There's nothing worse than serving food only to be mobbed by the guests before you can get it to the table,” advised Irby. She also cautions against too strong aromas and messy preparations. Buchanan mentions another dilemma, “Getting them to sit down at the time they say they want the food. I have no problem serving hot food, but I really like to serve it when it’s perfect, not after three speeches!” “I find meeting guest's expectations for caviar dreams on their hot dog budgets to be the biggest challenge,” declared Reardon. The price of a menu ranges widely and allows almost anyone to cater a special occasion with a personalized menu rather than fast food or grocery store tray; anywhere from $15 per person to $300. Location, menu, style of service, and size are all ingredients that influence price. So many, in fact, that many caterers don’t list prices on their websites instead asking potential customer to either call or send an email. Many have online forms to facilitate the ordering process and help clients consider everything they will need for their event. These caterers clearly have the passion for food, great hospitality and the creativity necessary to thrive in a challenging industry. “The sky is the limit!” concluded Fabian.
F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E photos by Michael Rutt
Where Are They Now?
S
it down and enjoy a cocktail while you guess where these chefs have gone. Chefs are always on the move, particularly in the early stages of their careers while they are gathering experience, but also later still eager to learn and meet new challenges. We discovered several of our past featured chefs have moved so we will tell you where they are cooking now. The four we caught up with shared a recipe and how they like their new positions.
FRED MENSINGA Executive Chef, Mission Inn Hotel & Spa, Riverside BEFORE: Executive Chef, Anaheim Hilton, Anaheim. FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Mandolin. FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE: Hand mixer for sauces. HOBBIES: Travel, movies, basketball, cookbooks.
Lobster Bisque by Chef Fred Mensinga
In a large stock pot, heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté
2T
Olive oil
the onions, celery, and carrot. Next, add the
1
Medium onion - chopped
lobster shells stirring occasionally. Add the
1
Celery rib - chopped
garlic, herbs, peppercorns, brandy, and sherry
1
Carrot - chopped
and simmer, stirring, until almost all the liquid
5 lbs
Lobster bodies (shells)
is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add water to
1
Garlic head - chopped
just cover the lobster shells and simmer for 2-
2T
Fresh tarragon leaves - chopped
3 hours.
2T
Fresh thyme leaves - chopped
1
Bay leaf
Pour mixture through a fine sieve into a large saucepan, pressing on and discarding
8
Black peppercorns
solids. Whisk in tomato paste and simmer
1/2 C
Brandy
until slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Add cream and simmer bisque 5 minutes.
1/2 C
Dry sherry
1/4 C
Tomato paste
1/2 C
Heavy cream
In a small pot, make the roux by cooking the flour and butter together until golden
1/2 C
All purpose flour
brown; add roux in small increments as
1/2 C
Butter
needed to the bisque to thicken it.
Salt and pepper - to taste
Finally, taste and season bisque with salt and pepper.
FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Kohlrabi. FAMOUS CHEFS YOU’VE MET: Roger Verge, Paul Bocuse, Wolfgang Puck, Michelle Richard, Roy Yamaguchi and Thomas Keller. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR CURRENT JOB? I like working here because of the history, grandeur, and inspiration around every corner. I feel like I’m working in a museum full of art and history. HOW IS YOUR NEW LOCATION/POSITION DIFFERENT FROM THE OLD? It is more of a resort hotel, which I enjoy after working in a convention hotel for so many years. You meet customers that are regulars and enjoy the food. The challenge of running four restaurants that are busy all the time is another reason I like it here. Never a boring moment, and we have a great team. CURRENT FAVORITE INGREDIENT? I like star anise because you can use it in baking, sorbets, sauces, and soups. WHAT’S NEW and DIFFERENT ON YOUR MENU FOR THE HOLIDAYS? The annual Festival of Lights starts November 25th and draws thousands of visitors each day, which is why we are doing mostly buffets during the holidays. The Festival of Lights is a gift to the community and a yearly tradition for many families. Some items coming up: peanut butter pumpkin soup with chives and crème fraiche, Madeira wine basted turkey with sage and giblet sauce, roasted chestnut and dried cranberry stuffing, pistachio crusted barramundi, citrus jus, warm rosemary apple tart with salted caramel gelato, and sweet potato flan. Continued on page 18
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E Continued from page 17
White Chocolate Cinnamon Almond Biscotti by Chef Katie Averill
Combine eggs through salt with a paddle. Add nuts at very end. Form one log on a parchment
People that don't know how to make biscotti
lined sheet pan. Pat the cinnamon on the very
think that it is something that can't do in their
top of the log all the way across. Cook at 325
own kitchens. However, it is easy and because
degrees for about 40 minutes until it springs
of the sharp lines, it comes out looking
back in the center. Remove from oven and
professional every time.
slice with a serrated knife on a bias. Make the cookies about 1/3” thick. Turn oven down to
2
Eggs
275 degrees and lay cookies flat on sheet pan.
2
Egg whites
Dry out cookies about 10 minutes on each
1t
Vanilla
side. Make sure the cookies do not turn brown
1C
Sugar
and that the oven is all the way down to 275
2 1/4 C
All purpose flour
degrees before you return them to the oven.
1t
Baking soda
You may want to turn the oven all the way off
1/4 t
Salt
after the first 10 minutes. Cool cookies
3/4 C
Toasted sliced almonds
completely. Melt the chocolate and dip the
1/2 t
Cinnamon
biscotti half way.
KATIE AVERILL Corporate Chef, Zov’s (Tustin, Irvine and Newport Coast) BEFORE: Corporate Chef, Balboa Desserts, Santa Ana. FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Red handed rubber
spatulas. FAVORITE CONDIMENT: Vanilla beans. FAVORITE JUNK FOOD: Ice cream. SIGNATURE DISH: Hearth breads. CULINARY HERO: Todd English. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR
CURRENT JOB? I am the new corporate chef and I like that every day is different. I get to create new menus and dishes and oversee the kitchens at three different restaurants. HOW IS YOUR NEW LOCATION/POSITION DIFFERENT FROM THE OLD? My new position is very different. I was the corporate chef for a dessert company previously and focused on pastry in a manufacturing type of environment. Now, I am focused on the hot line food and I am back in the restaurant scene. It is nice to be “back”. CURRENT FAVORITE INGREDIENT? Saffron! WHAT’S NEW and DIFFERENT ON YOUR MENU FOR THE HOLIDAYS? I like to bring the warm, comfort foods back for the holidays. Dishes that braise take longer to cook, but you can tell a lot of love was put into them because of it.
DAVID PARRY Executive Chef, Nautilus Restaurant, Queensland, Australia BEFORE: VP of Operations /Executive Chef, Billy’s at the Beach, Newport Beach. IF NOT A CHEF: A stand-up comic, but I’m the only one that finds me funny, other than my kids. FAVORITE SPICE: Saffron and sea salt. FAVORITE KITCHEN TOOL: Microplane. FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Hiramasa kingfish. HOBBIES: Surfing and food. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR CURRENT JOB? It is actually where I started
my professional cooking career 22 years ago. The dining room is set under tropical palm trees in al fresco heaven with views of the Coral Sea. The menu is local modern cuisine with daily tasting plates of mud crab and painted crayfish straight off fishing boats. I love the 9 course degustation menus with matching wines. At the end of the day what makes every place enjoyable to work is the staff. We are very blessed here. HOW IS YOUR NEW LOCATION/POSITION DIFFERENT FROM THE OLD? They are worlds apart. Billy’s has a truly magical spot on the harbor in Newport Beach. I was VP of
Operations at Billy’s/Executive Chef where my new position is 100% in the kitchen. My day starts at sun rise with trips to local markets, hobby farms, fishing boats, then off with my chefs to design the menu for the day. A dream for a chef: young coconuts, fresh yellowfin tuna, oysters, finger limes, kaffir lime, mangos, hearts of palm, dragon fruit, wild vanilla, suckling pigs, duck eggs, handmade cheeses; the list goes on. My restaurant is only open for dinner with a three hat rating, the highest accolade Australian restaurants are judged on. CURRENT FAVORITE INGREDIENT? Finger limes, a tropical lime about 2 inches long and
White chocolate for dipping – make sure it is coating chocolate if you don't want to temper it!
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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E
Hot Couverture Chocolate Pudding by Chef David Parry
4
Eggs – room temp
Makes 6
1/2 C
Heavy cream
the chocolate and gently mix through, add
1 3/4 oz
Unsalted butter – diced into 1/2
remaining egg and combine with chocolate.
inch cubes at room temp
Add cream to chocolate mixture until
Unsalted butter – softened Plain flour – to dust 12 oz
Dark couverture chocolate (with highest percent of cocoa)
combined. Finally add diced butter and With pastry brush, brush 6 ramekins about 4-oz
mixture into prepared ramekins and place in
out excess flour and place in fridge until needed.
fridge for a minimum of 1 hour.
Heat a pot with water that fits a bowl on top to melt of the bowl, and keep water at a simmer, stirring
RYAN ADAMS Owner/Executive Chef Three Seventy Common Kitchen + Drink, Laguna Beach BEFORE: Executive Chef, Sorrento Grille, Laguna Beach. FIRST COOKING MEMORY: Rolling out cookie dough for my grandma because I got in trouble for throwing rocks at the neighborhood kids. FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: Chimichurri. FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Fish. HOBBIES: Surfing, hot rods, gardening, and cooking. CULINARY HEROES: Scott Brandon, Eric Greenspan, and Florent Marneau because they took a risk and are making it. WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT YOUR CURRENT JOB? I like to run my own show. It’s a lot of responsibility, but having the final say
combine until all is melted and smooth. Pour
size with the softened butter, dust with flour, tap
the chocolate, the water must not touch the bottom
shaped like a bullet, with a hard outer skin. Once cut, they reveal a caviar of little lime
Add one tablespoon of the whisked eggs to
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F for 15 minutes when ready to bake puddings. Place ramekins evenly on a baking sheet and
chocolate regularly until smooth and free flowing.
place in oven for 15 minutes, the edges of the
Take chocolate off heat before all chocolate is
pudding will be cracked and the center still soft
melted so as not to burn chocolate, while still
and just unset. Remove from oven and cool for
stirring. Whisk the eggs gently in a separate bowl.
3 minutes, place a plate onto of the ramekin
Bring cream to the boil in separate saucepan over
and gently turn over, lift off ramekin, serve with
medium heat, cool cream for 5 minutes.
vanilla bean ice cream. Delicious!
balls that pop in your mouth. They’re great for raw or marinated seafood. WHAT’S NEW and DIFFERENT ON YOUR MENU FOR THE HOLIDAYS? With the busy holiday season about to start, we find summer also starting in Australia, so stone fruits are starting to come out here, which of course go well with so many dishes, or just dusted with
a little vanilla sugar. I find myself slow cooking oxtail with blood plums and abalone, duck confit with peach crumble and star anise. My all time favorite fruit: ripe juicy mangos, which I am tea smoking to make a sauce to paint on the plate that marries with fresh blue fin tuna belly, ginger chips, and aged dashi foam.
about all things pertaining to my restaurant gives me the opportunity to make sure that every detail is executed to my satisfaction. HOW IS YOUR NEW LOCATION/POSITION DIFFERENT FROM THE OLD? Now, all the everyday tasks that it takes to run a successful restaurant are solely in my court. CURRENT FAVORITE INGREDIENT? I’m enjoying preparing braised greens and different variations of this comforting dish. WHAT’S NEW and DIFFERENT ON YOUR MENU FOR THE HOLIDAYS? Our menu constantly changes with the seasons. For the winter holidays, we will be using more of everyone’s favorite traditional dishes including cranberries, root vegetables, braised and roasted vegetables and meats.
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
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THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE
Your Espresso Maker Best practices for saving time and money by Paul Giannotti
lthough the maintenance of an espresso machine may seem like an overwhelming task, the truth is it is quite simple. The challenge is getting it done on a regular basis.
A
STAFF TRAINING Let’s take the most obvious problems that we as a service company tend to encounter more often than you may realize: staff training. If your staff doesn’t know what to do, then how can they be expected to care for a large capital expenditure? If you want them trained, there are ways to achieve this, some free, and others at a minimal cost. First, talk to your coffee company and ask if they will come in and give your staff training from start to finish. This would range from making the espresso based drinks to daily cleaning. Many coffee companies are willing to schedule
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this since they want to insure their coffee is being prepared properly to maximize the flavor. It would also most likely be free since it is to their benefit also. If this is not available for you, then ask your service company if they offer this service. Although this would be at a price, the cost benefit to you would definitely outweigh the costs. PREVENTING PROBLEMS Let’s begin with some basics that must be done daily (two, three times or more a day is recommended but at least daily), and that is back flushing. This is done by using the portafilter with the basket insert that doesn’t have any holes in it. Put a small amount (teaspoon) of cleaning detergent into the basket, and then put it on the espresso machine, just as you would if making espresso. Then, by pushing the button as you would to start making an espresso, the water will be forced back up on the shower screen and begin to remove the coffee oils that get lodged in there that can have an adverse affect on the flavor of future drinks. The point is to bring the pump up to pressure, and then release the pressure; this should be done not once but multiple times. Once the portafilter with detergent is on the machine, start by pushing the button as you would to make an espresso, wait about 5-10 seconds and then push the stop button. Wait and then repeat this process about 5 times. There is no need to change the detergent between the stop and starts. After you have done this 5 or 6 times, make sure you hit the stop button, and only then remove the portafilter, rinse out the basket to remove any remaining detergent, wipe clean, then put the portafilter back on without detergent and repeat the process of start/stop again to rinse out any remaining detergent. This process will keep the shower screen clean of old coffee oils that can ruin the taste of future cups. SERVICE CALLS One of the easiest ways to save money is to know how to place a service call. Before calling your service company, make sure to have all the facts about the problem(s) you have. Don’t just say, “My espresso machine’s not working;” let the service
company know the steam arm is leaking, or espresso is coming out too fast, or the machine’s not getting hot, etc. The more information you give when placing the call, the better the chance of having it fixed right on the first service visit. One of the things we do when receiving a call is to try and find out if it is an operator problem. If it is, we may be able to walk them though the solution over the phone and save them a service call; you might be surprised how many times this happens. If you have been having a problem, remember to call it in as early as possible. First thing in the morning is best, since you have a better chance of getting same day service. Remember weekend, night, and holiday rates are much higher than weekday normal business hours, so plan when possible. REGULAR TUNE UPS Universally, coffee companies and service companies recommend establishing a Preventive Maintenance program (PM). This is a regular scheduled tune up on your espresso machine. Things such as under cup gaskets, shower screens, checking pump and boiler pressure, water hardness, and other basic items of operation are checked and fixed. This type of program can save you down time and money. Hard water is one of the biggest problems we encounter; since manufacturers warranties do not cover calcium/scale over a certain level (usually 3gpg, grains of hardness per gallon) it is important to have a water softener (not just a filter) for your espresso machine. Think of your maintenance visits as cheap insurance. Two to four times a year is recommended. I hope this will make you aware of some of the pitfalls to look for and steps you can take to prevent them. If you have any specific questions, give us a call and we will be happy to answer and/or assist. Paul Giannotti is president of A Tech Espresso & Coffee Service, Inc. They consult, maintain and repair coffee and espresso machines. For more information, please call 323.720.1682 or visit www.atechservice.com. If you have questions or problems you’d like Paul to address in future columns, please email Paul at paul.giannotti@a-techservice.com.
THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE
NOVEMBER • DECEMBER 2011 | great taste
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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES
The Joys (and Pains) of Entrepreneurship don’t regularly read my bio at the bottom of the column, I’m in the process of relaunching my ForgottenGrapes.com wine website to handle online wine sales and opening a companion retail wine shop, Chris Kern’s Forgotten Grapes. I’m well into the process and can report that it’s both the most exhilarating and frustrating thing I’ve ever done in my life. Hate working for someone else? Not afraid to fail? Like having your dreams built up, dashed, and then built up again on a daily (and sometimes hourly) basis? Then entrepreneurship is right for you! But don’t go at it alone. You need advice, and that’s why I’m here: to highlight some of the things you’ll need to successfully launch a business, whatever it may be.
by Chris Kern
Photo by Mike Easley/VitalExcess.com
’m taking a break from writing about wines and beverages to touch on a subject close to my heart and on my mind: launching a restaurant (or a bar or a wine shop or whatever). If you’re now cursing my name under your breath, congratulations! You’re already an entrepreneur. I’d suggest turning the page and moving on to the next article. Anyway, for the thousands of you who
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FINANCING: You’ll need it. Lots of it— to pay rent, to pay utilities, to pay your employees, to pay insurance, to pay for inventory, to pay back your loans and to pay for marketing and to pay for your website. And don’t forget working capital either, in case you don’t sell anything those first few months. Lehman Brothers ruined it for the rest of us, so it’s nearly impossible to get a loan these days unless you own property, can find someone to co-sign for you, or are willing to take on an exorbitant interest rate. Do it. Beg, borrow, steal (obviously don’t steal). Do whatever you can to get the money. You can’t have a business without capital to launch it. Cash is king. Make sure you have plenty.
BUDGETING AND BUSINESS PLAN: You’ll need them and will probably have several, as you’ll rewrite and revise them over and over again. But no one’s going to give you anything unless your business plan and future projections are sound and show near-immediate profitability. So don’t be afraid to be assertive with your projections. They’re just projections after all. Just don’t be wrong or you’ll go belly-up in no time. Contact your local small business development office and any successful entrepreneurs you know to get their advice, guidance, and examples of previously successful plans. Don’t reinvent the wheel if you can help it. PERMITS AND LICENSES: You’ll need lots of them—conditional use permit, seller’s permit, business license, tax license, liquor license, articles of organization. Budget for this. The paperwork and details are a massive pain, so hire a lawyer or consultant to assist with your filing — so budget for that too. Expect to wait and wait, and then rush to finish when the permits are finally approved. Like dominoes, one only falls when others have been knocked down. INSURANCE: You’re going to need that too — general liability, professional liability, worker’s comp, liquor liability — get it as quickly as possible, because you won’t be able to get your loans, conditional use permits or liquor license without it. INVENTORY: You won’t need as much as you think initially. If you can sell it straight off, don’t be afraid to purchase on credit. It’s that first re-order after launch you’ll need to be prepared for. Make sure you’ve got enough working capital for that first re-stock. FUN & PROFIT: They’re coming. Hopefully. Once we open. Fingers crossed… Chris Kern is desperately trying to get Chris Kern’s Forgotten Grapes and ForgottenGrapes.com up and running by the time you read this, before the allimportant holiday season. He’s also looking forward to the 2012 season of the Sunday Night Chef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com) and adding a couple of new venues to the mix. E-mail him at chris@forgottengrapes.com.
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