Great Taste Magazine 2012 Jan/Feb Issue

SOCIAL MEDIA TRENDS 10 JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

KITCHEN NIGHTMARE 20

ICE PROTECTION 22

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA

FROM THE EDITOR

2

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

FROM THE EDITOR

T E R I’S TAK E elcome to 2012! We raise a toast to the hospitality professionals we know and love and celebrate on the pages of Great Taste year ‘round. One of our favorites, Chef Greg Daniels shares his vision of developing his customers’ dining experiences by gradually introducing parts and proteins rarely seen in Orange County restaurants. He gains their trust with staples; then he sneaks in ingredients like roasted neck of lamb, beef cheeks or goose.

Over the years we’ve witnessed the evolution of the “restaurant week” and each year one or two new ones crop up intended to fills seats during the traditionally slower sales periods. Prix fix dinner value-pricing entices customers to try places they might not otherwise visit.

The extra planning and organization are worth the effort but we celebrate the menus that include prix fixe options year round.

Napa is celebrating their 2nd annual Restaurant Month in January with not only over 50 eateries participating, but hotels that are offering special packages. La Toque is featuring a Truffle Extravaganza; Solbar is building culinary experiences around local craft beers, paired with selections from the menu or Chef Curry could fix you a two-course prix fixe lunch for $20.12 at Auberge.

MORE THAN CHEFS

W

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s

}

CONTENT F E AT U R E S 1 4 A JOURNEY TO NAPA VALLEY

22

17

Avoid headaches with immigration by

23

CHEF GREG DANIELS

OPERATIONS checking I-9 forms

Travel to wine country for wonderful wines and food

Content

BEVERAGES Moonshine and other spirits create a revamped back bar

INSIDE 4 THE BEET Find out who’s hot and new now while acknowledging all the greatness and philanthropy in this generous industry

5

BOOKS Domaine Chandon Cookbook: Recipes from Étoile offer the best of wine country cooking

THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 BAKING RACK 7 CATCH OF THE DAY 7 SWEET SPOT 8 TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT 8 SPICE RACK 9 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 9 HOW GREEN ARE YOU 1 2 SUR LE MENU

Tips to enhance your social media efforts

20

FRONT OF THE HOUSE Luigi’s d’Italia survives and thrives after Kitchen Nightmares

On The Cover Berkshire pork shank with tomato reduction, chive spaetzle, black olive tapenade and dijon micro greens by Chef/partner Greg Daniels of Haven Gastropub Old Towne Orange is ideal eating for winter. Rich, hearty and satisfying. See more shanks and Chef Daniels’ recipe in Sur Le Menu on page 12. Photo by Michael Rutt.

GABRIEL CALIENDO

ADAM NAVIDI

KATIE AVERILL

JASON STEIN

Corporate Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Corporate Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

Adam Navidi Catering &

Zōv’s Bistro,

Future Foods Farms

Café & Bakery

chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

3

THE

BEET

THE

BEET

INSIDE

PRODUCE

PICK

OF THE MONTH

Grilled New England Scallops, Citrus Salad, Tangerine Beurre Blanc at Tabu Grill

Photo by Linda Mensinga

Finger Limes THE FINGER LIME IS AN AUSTRALIAN GEM that has become available in a few local, commercial farms in recent years. Often referred to as citrus caviar, it can be cut in half and squeezed like toothpaste; out will come individual micro-pearls of juice vesicles from the rind, round and firm.

Fruit breeders have taken this overseas fruit and made Finger Lime a culinary sensation with selections in colors of green, red, pink and yellow. Ideally suited to raw oysters, enjoy these in recipes that welcome a clean burst of tart acidity such as seafood, cocktails and salads. Match them with an equally fresh, crisp sparkling wine such as champagne or Pinot Grigio.

Please visit Great-Taste.net for the Baked Coconut Finger Lime Fig Pudding recipe pictured here. The pudding gets a kick from lots of lime zest.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with small, local family farmers committed

to

sustainable

agriculture,

personable production, and propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com

4

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

Tabu Grill is proud to announce that Chef Kenny Raponi has stepped into the position of Executive Chef. Raponi previously worked as the sous chef, at this beloved restaurant, best known for its high Zagat ratings under former Chef Kevin Jerrold-Jones. Raponi will continue to bring a high level of quality and execution in the tradition of Tabu Grill in Laguna Beach.

Paul Martin’s American Bistro just opened the elite restaurant group’s third location at the Irvine Spectrum. The restaurant specializes in hand-crafted farm-to-table cuisine using only the finest ingredients sourced from small local producers and artisan purveyors. Partners Brian Bennett and restaurateur Paul Fleming, and the local management, Operating Partner Dana Robertson and Chef Partner Jorge Estrada oversee the lively location that features peak of the season ingredients and accessible prices, with plates priced mostly between $10 and $22.

Anonymous sources report that David Man will be taking over the Executive Chef Position at the Island Hotel. Chef Bill Bracken departed both the Executive Chef and Director of F & B positions in Dec. 2011. Hotel representatives have not confirmed this information nor released the name of the new F & B Director.

T

CUCINA enoteca, retail wine shop and restaurant, is now open in Irvine Spectrum Center. Lauren “Lulu” De Rouen, CUCINA enoteca’s chef de cuisine, will helm the kitchen and add her own creative touches to the menu, drawing inspiration from seasonal ingredients, her roots in French cuisine, direction from the Urban Kitchen’s group Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli and assistance from her management team of Sous Chefs Brent Omeste and Chad Urata and Pastry Chef Sergio Chavez. General Manager, Peg Hicks, Managers Guy Conigliaro and Ruth Rodriguez along with Wine Director Ben Kephart oversee the front of the house of this dynamic location.

West Coast Prime Meats owned in part

by Craig Nickoloff purchased the assets of White Apron Meats in December. WCPM will service all the existing White Apron accounts and expand their distribution throughout the year. White Apron Meats (originally Center Meat Company) was purchased by Arbor Investments of Chicago approximately six years ago. In the mean time, deals were struck for the asset purchase with US Foods that ultimately fell through. Arbor, who boasts over 1.1 billion in annual revenue on their website left many vendors, both local and national with substantial amounts owing.

THE

BEET INSIDE

THE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Joel Black Chef Gabriel Caliendo Genae Girard Suzanna Hoang Linda Mensinga Jennifer Morris Chef Adam Navidi Chef Jason Stein Michael Wildes

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

.F. Chang’s China Bistro at the Irvine Spectrum has opened after a complete remodel with a new look, a revamped menu and the introduction of the new brand (this store only). The location will serve as a space for the culinary and beverage teams to test the latest innovations prior to introducing them to the rest of the P.F. Chang family of restaurants. New items from the menu include: Singapore black pepper prawns (pictured), Orange-Spiced Halibut and Sichuan Roasted Half Chicken. Mary Melton, the P.F. Chang Beverage Director has also introduced a delicious line of signature cocktails.

Tamarind of London’s Grand Opening party generated $7,000+ for the James Beard Foundation. Approximately 700 attended the event where costumed Bollywood dancers, henna tattoo artists,

P

BEET Dhol drummers, and a red carpet entry set the stage for the grand opening of Tamarind of London. The long-awaited debut of the $3 million establishment hosted many of Newport Beach’s jetset, members of the Crystal Cove Community Association, figures from Hollywood and Bollywood and supporters of the James Beard Foundation, announced General Manager Maneesh Rawat, who said that the restaurant will donate more than $7,000 to the foundation that is dedicated to celebrating, nurturing, and preserving America’s diverse culinary heritage and future.

Yard House Restaurants debuted its empire of beer in the Empire State when it opened in Westchester County, New York, in October followed by its first-ever location in Virginia Beach in November. Another California store brought the CA count up to 17 when it opened in December in Fresno.

BOOKS

his beautifully-photographed coffee table volume by Jeff Morgan has 224 pages of California wine country cuisine from the venerable Domaine Chandon, the French-owned winery of champagne style sparkling wines.

The book’s introduction describes a chance San Francisco meeting that owner Count de Vogüé had with Napa Valley enthusiast Robert Mondavi whose persuasive powers led to the vineyard’s creation in 1975.

The Michelin-starred étoile (French for star), restaurant is the source for the 75 recipes in this book.

Each recipe begins with tips for ingredient substitutions and multiple wine recommendations. Many recipes are accompanied by stunning full-page photos. The helpful chapter on food and wine pairing defines varietals, classifies sparkling wines and explains cooking with wine. Many of the wonderful recipes such as truffled popcorn, warm wild mushroom salad or three-cheese potato gratin are simple enough for anyone to tackle. The more intricate recipes for braised short ribs with creamy polenta or lamb loin with green garlic sauce, tabouli, tomatoes and cannellini beans will interest professionals. Notable desserts include frozen cappuccino soufflés with bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate, passion fruit cheesecake made with powdered sugar and mascarpone. To order this book and many other great titles, please visit www.great-taste.net.

T

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

5

INSIDE

THE BAKING

RACK

by Chef Katie Averill

GRAPEFRUIT, BASIL AND LIFE ON THEME CITRUS I THINK OF GRAPEFRUIT AND BASIL; ALWAYS WILL. Flashing back to the mid90s when I was just out of culinary school in San Francisco, I was lucky enough to become friends with (not a slave laborer of) a big time chef. He invited my family and I to his restaurant for a 10-course tasting meal. It was perhaps the best meal of my life. Somewhere between courses four and seven my mom, all five feet and 100 pounds of her, was literally about to cry because she was so full and didn’t want to offend “the chef” by not cleaning her plate. Then out came our intermezzo. It was a sublime grapefruit/basil sorbet. Two simple ingredients steeped together with simple syrup turned into something that wonderfully confused the palate.

Where did the grapefruit taste end and the basil begin? It was refreshing, new and genius! I think, no, I know, I put a culinary super cape on the man that night. I started to ponder how basil could go with lemon and orange the same way. Salads, cocktails and desserts would never be the same.

About two months later said chef had me over to his house for postservice late night snack with his wife and daughter. I sat there in anticipation wondering what he cooks at home with the contents of his refrigerator after midnight. I expected another life changing moment. We discussed the changing tide of San Francisco food, from complicated, multielement plating to simple, fresh California-grown ingredients. At some point the air filled with the unmistakable smell of BURNT TOAST. The famous chef had burnt the toast and I was having burnt toast at his house. Classic.

We all laughed, including the chef. He learned, as the best chefs and all people should do, to laugh at himself.

Contact Chef Katie Averill at KDCOOKS@aol.com.

6

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

INSIDE

SWEET SPOT

by Suzanna Hoang

Casey’s Cupcakes: The Food Network’s Cupcake Wars Winner DESCRIBE YOUR PRODUCTS/BAKERY ITEMS Casey’s Cupcakes is a Food Network Cupcake Wars award winning confection boutique. I have created

The Fish Market

by Chef Jason Stein

16 delicious signature flavors including gluten free and sugar free options, plus a seasonal cupcake of the month. In addition to cupcakes baked fresh daily, we offer beautiful specialty cakes such as wedding, birthday and custom cakes

as well as custom

cupcakes for parties and special events. We will soon offer other specialty items such as Casey’s Pretty Pies, Dazzling Doggie Cupcakes and Cupcake Lollipops. My cupcakes are always wrapped beautifully with their distinctive pink and white signature Casey’s Cupcakes box, and each boutique is inspired by a classic

CASEY

REINHARDT,

24,

OPENED

Parisian café with a glamorous Hollywood twist.

CAVIAR: BLACK GOLD

WHAT IS YOUR SPECIALTY?

CAVIAR, ALSO KNOWN AS BLACK GOLD, HAS

At Casey’s Cupcakes, we use the best and freshest

BEEN A DELICACY OF KHANS, CZARS,

ingredients such as chocolate from Belgium and real

MONARCHS

fruit, like the strawberries baked into my Sassy

HUNDREDS OF YEARS. In spite of its sweet,

Strawberry cupcake.

earthy, and pleasant saltiness, it is an acquired

CASEY’S

AND

ARISTOCRATS

FOR

taste for most. In the past decade poachers and

CUPCAKES IN NOVEMBER 2009 at The Historic

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP SELLERS?

smugglers, along with polluted waters, have

Mission Inn Hotel & Spa in Riverside and has

Rockin’ Red Velvet is one of the most popular flavors,

brought the supply of wild sturgeon caviar, the

expanded to Fashion Island in Newport Beach with

and our “Cupcake of the Month” is always a big seller.

creme de la creme delicacy, to near extinction.

more locations planned. Cupcakes, baked fresh

We had a Peanut Butter Pizzaz (pictured above) flavor

Sturgeon have been around for millions of years.

daily, are $3.50 and specialty cupcakes $4.00 a

that started as a “Cupcake of the Month,” but became

They have outlived the dinosaurs only to now fall

piece. www.caseyscupcake.com

such a huge hit that we added it to our signature

prey to man's desire for their clusters of glistening

cupcake menu.

roe. Their eggs sell for as much as 270 dollars per

WHAT WAS YOUR WORK EXPERIENCE PRIOR TO

ounce in gourmet shops worldwide and garnish the

OPENING UP YOUR BAKERY?

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE?

I recently graduated from Pepperdine University with

My biggest challenge at the moment is how to

Import bans on Caspian Sea caviar have

a degree in psychology. Prior to that I was on one of

incorporate all the creative ideas that I come up with,

created an upside for a group of entrepreneurial

MTV’s highest rated shows Laguna Beach: The Real

in addition to managing our growth and expansion.

biologists and fish farmers in California's central

Orange County pursuing an acting and modeling

I’ve been getting calls from all over the world from

valley region. They have created sustainable

career. But I always knew I wanted to open my own

people who are interested in opening a Casey’s

sturgeon farms and are known as domestic roe

cupcake business.

Cupcakes in their city. I want to expand Casey’s

farmers. There are five aquafarms in the region;

Cupcakes into a national and international brand!

two actual caviar producers—Sterling Caviar and

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO OPEN UP A BAKERY?

50 dollar entrées of white tablecloth plates.

Tsar Nicolai. Sterling is the larger of the two

I grew up baking with my great grandma. When I was

HOW DO YOU ACCOMMODATE DIFFERENT DIETS?

producing 12 tons of caviar per year. The region

a little girl I especially enjoyed the artistic side of

We offer delicious gluten free and sugar free options.

now produces an estimated 85% of all the white

baking. Cupcakes have always been my favorite treat

I am also working diligently on a vegan cupcake.

sturgeon caviar in the U.S.

DO YOU HAVE A TIP YOU CAN SHARE?

French Laundry, Per Se, and Nobu. The caviar is

to create because they're so cute and fun to decorate!

Some A-list eateries that use this caviar are

It was my dream to open up a confection boutique

It’s all about the details. Add whimsical decorations

harvested once a year and is done in a

because I have such fond memories and I wanted to

and glamorous touches to your cupcake like edible

sustainable manner. The caviar is aged from

share her irresistible recipes with my own fun and

glitter, sugar pearls, chocolate shavings, candies and

three to eighteen months before it develops its

flirty touches.

even lightly toasted marshmallows.

full flavor.

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

7

INSIDE

TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

Farm 2 Table

by Chef Adam Navidi

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

INDIAN SUMMER ONE OF THE STRANGEST NEW REALITIES FOR ME IS WORKING ON MENUS SIX TO EIGHT MONTHS BEFORE THEY ROLLOUT. It is currently November as I’m writing this, and we just rolled out the new fall menu full of rich

8

flavorful items at the Lazy Dog Cafes. Stick to

THIS IS THE PERFECT WRITERS’ MORNING;

How do I know? The last three months I have

your bones kind of stuff, like Lamb Stroganoff.

RAIN, A HOT CUP OF JAVA AND SOME MUCH

been selling my produce at Orange County

So what am I doing now? Working on

NEEDED REST FROM A BUSY WEEK OF

farmers markets 3-4 days a week at different

summer time menus! Some things that pop

CATERING CHRISTMAS PARTIES. It is however

locations learning how this side of business

into my mind are fresh, light, refreshing and

the worst type of morning for farming, so I

works. At those 35-40 markets I’ve only seen one

seasonal. All of which point to our theme this

decided it’s time to turn off the burners and strain

chef buy stuff from a farmer!

month in Great Taste Magazine: CITRUS!

this story that’s been stewing in my head.

In

Orange

County

there

are

35

Let’s begin with a starter shall we? Summer

Culinary trends — some love them, some hate

time in Southern California is perfect for a

them and some just don’t know what to make of

organic (I’m one of them) and some are backyard

ceviche. I start by taking some shrimp and/or

them! Tis the season for every food writer in

growers who grow and sell whatever they don’t eat

bay scallops and marinating them overnight in

America to write his or her forecast for next year’s

to their neighbors. I’ve talked with 20 or so of the

freshly squeezed lime juice. The next day, I

trends. Most the time they all sound the same,

other farmers to see how many sell to chefs

discard the juice and reserve the shellfish; they

never any new ideas you don’t already know and

directly. Only one told me he sells to a chef at the

are tossed in a dressing that consists of lemon,

many are just as silly as serving jello in the middle

Santa Monica market regularly! So where and how

lime and orange juice seasoned with onions,

of winter!

producer/growers. Out of those only 4% are

can all these restaurants that claim to support

serrano chilies, cilantro, sea salt and a little

A top trend for 2012: beet & bacon ice cream

hot sauce. I serve them with guacamole and

coming to your local neighborhood ice cream

One of the local markets I work is downtown

freshly fried tortilla chips.

parlor! Are we bored with that yet? We know most

and surrounded by restaurants that love the traffic

their local farmers truly be “farm to table”?

As our next course, let’s talk about one of

trends are started by creative establishments

the market brings mid-week on what would be an

my other ideas: Lobster Spaghetti. I envision

looking for ways to differentiate themselves from

otherwise very slow night for them. Yet these

nice bite-sized pieces of Maine lobster tossed

their competition. From there it rolls off of the

restaurants don’t purchase food or support the

with perfectly cooked spaghetti in a citrus

table, onto the floor and out the door just to get

vendors who are a part of the attraction for their

cream sauce. I like to take fresh squeezed

mashed and scooped back onto the plates of less

restaurant. It doesn’t make sense when you can

lemon juice and white wine and reduce it down

creative establishments everywhere. The unique

purchase better produce out your front door then

to au sec. Then, I would fold that into our

dishes of today become the trends of tomorrow,

you can get delivered in the back door. Something

house made cream sauce and finish to order

no

I learned years ago was you can usually get a great

with some fresh herbs, such as dill, Italian

conundrum—guests dine at unique restaurant to

deal from the farmers at the end of the market

parsley and tarragon. Serve with a nice

have an experience they can’t get anywhere else.

because they don’t want to have to box everything

Sauvignon Blanc from Washington State.

matter

how

absurd

they

are.

It’s

a

It’s the WOW factor, not the beet and bacon ice

up to take it back. I’ve gotten countless deals on

For dessert, I’m working on a fresh key lime

cream. When everyone starts serving bacon ice

everything from $5 for a box of baby artichokes

curd parfait. I take key lime juice, key lime

cream it becomes common, the wow and cool

that I took and pickled whole, to 10 lb bags of

zest, eggs and sugar and create a lovely

factors are lost, and ultimately the dish does not

oranges for $2, to boxes of shallots and onions

balanced curd: tart and sweet. I’ll layer that

bring guests to the trendy restaurant.

that were so fresh the skins rolled right off them

with some fresh raspberries and whipped

Another food trend, farm to table, makes me

sweetened cream. Add a little crunchy some-

wonder. How many restaurants that say they serve

Unless our local farmers get more support from

tin’ some-tin’ in there. Sip on an espresso

food from local farmers actually do? The answer,

residents and restaurants, the farm to table

ristretto with lemon rind and off we go.

in my opinion, is that many more say than do.

concept will never be true, period!

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

and they were as crisp as an apple.

INSIDE

HOW GREEN ARE YOU? Chef /Environmental Steward Jeff Platt MOST FOODSERVICE BUSINESSES ALREADY

WHAT DO YOU RECYCLE?

RECYCLE, BUY LOCAL AND CONSERVE ENERGY

The question isn’t what we recycle, but what don’t

AND

WATER

WHENEVER

POSSIBLE.

Many

hospitality professionals have taken extra steps to

we recycle. The only things I have not been able to recycle are latex gloves and parchment paper.

reduce their environmental footprint. We salute them and their effort.

Chef Jeff Platt of O’Neill’s Bar and Grill at Arroyo

HOW IS RECYCLING IMPLEMENTED THROUGH THE COMPANY?

Trabuco Golf Club has become a leader in green

We have noticed a 25% reduction in our trash pickup

practices with his kitchen garden kept fertile with

fees due to less servicing. Most of our trash is

composted food scraps and grass clippings. The

recycled and we don’t get charged for recycle pickup.

garden currently supplies 10% of their produce.

Staff training has become a daily manager

O’Neill’s Bar and Grill at Arroyo Trabuco Golf Club

responsibility. Employees are scrutinized for

26772 Avery Parkway, Mission Viejo, CA 92692

recycling the same way a chef would be for a recipe.

arroyotrabuco.com

It’s a job expectation.

HOW ARE YOU MAKING YOUR FOOD MORE

WHAT CHEMICALS DO YOU USE FOR CLEANING?

SUSTAINABLE?

We use all vegetable-base cleaning fluids that are

We only purchase sustainable wild and local fish

non-toxic to ground water and soil.

when it’s in season. In addition, we dehydrate our food waste and use it as fertilizer for my garden. We

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED FROM PLANTING AND

now have a 20 foot diameter compost bin where we

HARVESTING?

decompose grass and leaves from the golf course.

I’ve learned that I don’t have a green thumb. However, I am always learning and enjoy this type of challenge.

WHAT ABOUT WATER EFFICIENCY?

The pride we feel when we pick tomatoes or peppers

We use a low flow spray nozzle in our washing station.

after waiting months is extremely gratifying.

Cheese Pick of the Month FISCALINI FARMSTEAD PURPLE MOON NO, THIS 100 YEAR OLD MODESTO-BASED FARM DOESN’T BREED VIOLET HUED COWS. Fiscalini Farms Purple Moon cheese takes the guesswork out of wine and cheese pairing by marinating 1/2- or 1-pound blocks of six month old cheddar in local Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine lends a subtle purple tinge to the rind and sweetness to an already delicious raw cow’s milk cheese. Purple Moon’s whimsical label has a cow happily resting in the nook of a crescent moon with a bunch of grapes on one hoof and a glass of red wine on the other.

Gold medal-winning Purple Moon is the perfect selection for your next party platter garnished with purple grapes. The cabernet aroma is unmistakable. Like any cheddar, it can easily be melted into a grilled cheese, omelet, or quesadilla for a nutty, moderately sharp jolt on your taste buds. Match this with your favorite red wine or, of course, a nice cab.

Fiscalini Farm is animal welfare certified, environmentally certified and powered by renewable energy produced on-site. For more information please contact your FreshPoint Representative.

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

9

TRENDS

Social Media is Here to Stay

by Jennifer Morris

A

sk most restaurant owners,

information. Perhaps you are a chef who just

managers or chefs what the

received a great deal on seabass and want to

most effective marketing for

move your product quickly. Previously, you

their business is, and they will

would lean on your servers to sell the special to

respond word-of-mouth. But

the guests already dining in your restaurant.

with the growth of social media,

Now, imagine posting a photo of that prepared

word-of-mouth marketing is morphing. Once

seabass accompanied with a great description

upon a time, friends and family communicated

on social networks. You’ll get your guests’ taste

by talking in person, on the phone, or through

buds watering while planting the seed of where

the occasional email. Now we correspond via

they should dine that evening.

status updates, texts and tweets. We love to brag

Eateries must use original and eye-catching

by checking into the newest restaurant and

methods to grab their fans’ attention, or it will

posting photos of the meal we’re about to

be lost in a sea of messages. Your social media

devour.

‘voice’ must be strong and match the style of

Social media, once called a trend, is now considered a part of our daily life. Thus it should become a tool for restaurants adding to their marketing mix. What other form of media allows you to brand, pique interest, receive feedback, converse with guests, and inform patrons about specials, offers and discounts?

Social media, once called a trend, is now

fun with it. For example, Clancy’s Clubhouse in

become a tool for restaurants adding to their

Anaheim conducts contests with their Facebook

marketing mix. What other form of media allows

fans. Sports related photos are posted and fans

you to brand, pique interest, receive feedback,

must create the best caption to enter to win a

converse with guests, and inform patrons about

$15 gift card. If you are a fine dining restaurant

specials, offers and discounts?

you can still be fun, just make sure you retain a

Unlike traditional print media which requires a long lead-time, social media allows immediate

10

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

your establishment. If you are a sports bar, have

considered a part of our daily life. Thus it should

sense of refinement.

Recently, up-and-coming restaurants have

TRENDS turned to Facebook to allow guests to follow their

during the transformation have a strong rapport with

virtual progress during the building and opening

Starfish because they witnessed every step along the

stages. Nancy Wilhelm, owner of Starfish which

way.”

follower could be your next paying guest.

Jennifer Morris is the owner of Ajenda Public Relations which specializes in hospitality marketing

opened in Laguna Beach this past June, comments,

Social media is here to stay. Restaurants should

“Facebook was a great tool to get our loyal fans

embrace how it can brand them and continue to

involved. We felt that those who had followed us

build their clientele. After all, your new Twitter

and public relations with an emphasis in social media. You can reach her at jen@ajendapr.com.

Social Media Success: Don’t Just Attract Followers, Engage Them

by Genae Girard 1. Create great content. If Cathy posted interesting antidotes about the history of certain desserts, or the story behind a certain dessert, it is sure to create more buzz.

2. Consider adding video. The average consumer responds to video better than written content. If Cathy showed a video of the bakery making their new three-layered rainbow cake, it would be more engaging for her followers. The options are endless.

3. Add humor to get the customers laughing. If an employee turns the mixer on high accidentally and splatters cake batter all over the place, snap a picture and post it across your social media network.

4. Look at your competition. Look for the top 10 competitors that you have in social media. Keep an eye on what they are posting and how many followers they have. Then develop your content in a more interesting and out of the box way from what they are doing. Do it faster, smarter and better.

5. Look for other companies that are a good fit to team up with. Make an agreement to swap content on each other’s sites so that you can take advantage of co-marketing. This could be a manufacturer or service CATHY, A SMALL BUSINESS OWNER, SPENT A LOT OF MONEY ON THE

that complements your business. Take advantage of the communities

FRONT END OF A SOCIAL MEDIA CAMPAIGN FOR HER BAKERY. She set

that have already been built and cross-pollinate them through your posts.

out to incrementally build her following on Facebook, Twitter and her blog.

6. Look to younger employees in your company that may be on the pulse

Slowly she built a following with her in-store business as well as national

of social media. Put them in charge of reporting to you once a week

distribution. She carefully crafted flyers to put in boxes, an email campaign

about what the buzz is in the social media realm. Have them come up

and newsletters. Her followers steadily grew until she hit a plateau. Cathy

with different ideas, promotions or creative posts and test them out in

wondered why it took so much effort to build a following, just for the drop

the market.

out rate to steadily increase. What she didn’t realize is, while it’s important

All of the content-rich aspects of social media will attract–and more

to build a following on social media sites, it’s just as important to keep that

importantly keep–customers watching your brand grow. Standing out in the

following engaged.

market place is becoming even more important as competition is always

In order to keep customers engaged, you must create an emotional bond in order to keep their attention. The average customer is exposed to

knocking at the social media door. Do it better, be nimble and you will catch your customers sticking around to see what’s next.

hundreds of messages on their computer, phones and TV every day. They have become artificially attention deficit disordered, and that doesn’t help

Genae Girard is a speaker, author and entrepreneur. She is the founder

in advertising your brand. To be successful in the social media market you

of www.BeyondtheBoobieTrap.com, an online social media tribe of

must engage the customer. Cathy can do this by turning to the creative spirit

over

of the company and thinking outside the box using the following strategies:

info@BeyondtheBoobieTrap.com or call 512-796-1618.

23,000

breast

cancer

survivors.

For

inquiries,

email:

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

11

SUR LE MENU

Shanks amb, veal, or pork; shanks are an inexpensive and full-flavored cut.

The connective tissue is tough, but long, slow cooking makes it tender and toothsome. Succulent shanks are perfect with root vegetables and sturdy herbs. Osso Buco is an Italian dish from Milan made with a crosscut section of shank with the round bone in the middle. In every preparation, the bone marrow adds savory richness to the dish.

For our cover Chef Greg Daniels made his Berkshire pork shank with tomato reduction, chive spaetzle, black olive tapenade and dijon micro greens.

See how other restaurants serve this wonderful dish Sur Le Menu!

L

Orchid Restaurant - Costa Mesa Baghali Polo with Lamb Shank, dill weed and lima beans, mixed with Basmati rice, served with fresh seasoned lamb shank ..........................................$9.99 Sapphire Laguna - Laguna Beach Baked Kurobuta Pork Shank, roasted apple spaetzle, brussel sprouts, bacon, mustard pork jus......................................$28.00 Summit House Restaurant - Fullerton Braised Colorado Lamb Shank, Frenched lamb shank, slow roasted with fresh herbs and garden vegetables served with risotto and herbed au jus .......................$37.00 Tantalum - Long Beach Braised Lamb Shank, fingerling potatoes, root veggies, natural jus ...............$26.00 Delius Restaurant - Signal Hill Braised Lamb Shank, pearl onion-rosemary confit, celery, mustard greens, sweet potato gnocchi, lamb jus..............$24.00

12

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

Five Crowns - Corona Del Mar California Lamb Rack, celery root and ale gratin, mustard greens .................$46.00 Marche Moderne - Costa Mesa Cured and Braised Boneless Pork Shank, flageolet beans, dijon mustard & roasted carrots........................................$17.00 Monarch Bay Club - Dana Point Kurobuta pork osso bucco, sautéed savoy cabbage, sugar peas, chili flakes, walnut, peach compote ...........................$32.00 Splashes American Coastal Cuisine Laguna Beach Lamb Osso Bucco, white beans, merguez sausage, pomegranate..................$35.00 Claes Ovation - Laguna Beach Lamb Shank, young celery, cipollini onions, baby carrots, lamb jus .....$30.00.

Gypsy’s Mediterranean Grill - Long Beach Mahiche (lamb shank), slow-cooked lamb shank braised in tomato-basil sauce11.99

The Ritz - Newport Beach Milan’s Osso Buco, hindshank of veal oven-braised until fork-tender, served with fettuccine pasta & veal “jus”........$25.00 Yves Bistro - Anaheim Osso Buco 16 oz bone-in, braised for four hours in our special red wine sauce.

Served with a generous amount of creamy mushroom risotto ........................$28.00 Canaletto Ristorante Veneto - Newport Beach Ossobuco con Risotto allo Zafferano, grassfed veal shank braised in marsala wine with porcini and shiitake mushrooms; served with saffron risotto ............$37.99 The White House - Anaheim Ossobuco Milanese 18oz. braised bone-in veal shank served with locally farmed herbs over soft Italian polenta finished with porcini mushrooms ...............$35.50 21 Oceanfront - Newport Beach Veal Osso Buco (18 oz) slowly cooked for 10 hours in its own juice and served with mashed potatoes .........................$42.00

SUR LE MENU

Braised Pork Shanks with Dijon Spaetzle and Olive Tapenade

COVER RECIPE

BRAISED PORK SHANK

Carefully remove shanks from liquid, and

ice bath ready nearby and begin to spread

4-6

Berkshire pork shanks

reduce braising liquid until sauce consistency.

batter through holes 2 cups at a time. Stir

3

Yellow onions - roughly chopped

Strain through a fine sieve and use on plate.

with a slotted spoon until the droplets float to

3

Carrots - roughly chopped

6

Celery stalks - roughly chopped

DIJON SPAETZLE

dumplings out of water and place in ice bath.

1 bottle

Red wine

1 qt

Water

Repeat until all batter is used. Dump ice bath

1/2 bottle

Port

1C

Chives

into a colander and wash spaetzle to remove

16 oz

Tomato juice

I6 C

AP flour

extra starch. Let sit for 5 min. to drain; toss

Chicken stock (as needed)

1/4 t

Salt

lightly with grape seed oil. SautĂŠ in butter

Sachet (thyme sprigs, peppercorn,

1T

White pepper

until golden brown and serve under braised

parsley stem, bay leaves in

12

Eggs

pork shank.

cheese cloth)

1C

Dijon mustard

the surface and boil for one minute. Skim

Begin by searing off all pork shanks in a large

Place a pot of water on the stove and bring to

OLIVE TAPENADE

roasting pan to a deep brown color on all sides.

a boil. As you wait for pot to come to a boil,

3C

Pitted cured black olives

Once browned, remove from pan and add all

blend chives and 2 pints of water in a blender.

3

Anchovies

vegetables and caramelize them to a deep

Pass through a fine sieve, and reserve. In a

1/4 C

Capers

brown. After vegetables have been caramelized,

large bowl add flour, salt, white pepper and

3

Garlic cloves

deglaze pan with wine, port, and tomato juice.

mix with a whisk to combine. Crack eggs on

1/2 T

Ground black pepper

Scrape off the fond on the bottom of pan and

top of flour; add water/chive mixture and Dijon

1/4 C

Extra virgin olive oil

reduce by half. Put pork shanks back into pan

to bowl. With your hands, break yolks and use

Add all ingredients except for oil into a food

and cover with chicken stock. Add sachet and

fingers to blend. The mixture should resemble

processor. Begin blending and slowly drizzle

bring to a boil. Once boiling, take off stove,

pancake batter and should have a green hue.

olive oil until consistency is that of a spread.

cover pan with a lid or foil and cook in the oven

Let rest for 10 min. Place a perforated pan

at 300 degrees for 4 hours or until tender.

over boiling water, turn heat on low. Have an

Use as a garnish on the Braised pork shank. Top with micro Dijon greens.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

13

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

Above left: Duckhorn Vineyards fermentation building; above right: Pinot Noir grapes from Schramberg; far right: Paraduxx 2008 Napa Valley Red Wine’s label pictures a Blue Wing Teal, a migratory duck that winters in southern California.

A J o u r n e y t o n A pA I n v I tAt I o n o n ly

F

by Teri Williams

14

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

rom Napa north to Calistoga, the famed Napa Valley is bigger, wider and much more than I ever expected. More wineries, restaurants, shops and natural beauty than any article, book or TV review can cover. More wines to discover, restaurants to try, foods to savor and tasting rooms to visit exist than even its reputation promises. On a recent trip, my first to the valley, I was dazzled just by the small selection of vineyards as well as eateries I visited and can’t wait to return for more.

Our first treat was at Domaine Chandon where we enjoyed an informative tour and a delicious tasting of both their sparkling and still wines.

This festive beginning was followed by dinner at étoile where our first course was a heavenly pan seared Sonoma foie gras. (This dish is all the more vivid in memory knowing it will soon be illegal in California.) Chef Perry Hoffman (see Guest chef), a Napa Valley native, served the fatted duck liver sautéed and accompanied by a creamy torchon with Royal Blenheim apricots and curried endive. The meal continued with Galia melon and Spanish octopus; dayboat scallops with sprouted mung beans, Santa Rosa plums and uni sabayon; and roasted veal tenderloin with sunchokes, snow peas, rhubarb, celery and sauce gribiche. Bliss!

The following day’s lunch was at NapaStyle Panitoteca Café & Wine Bar in Yountville owned by Michael Chiarello and situated opposite his famed Bottega. Our local NapaStyle has the wine tasting but unfortunately not the delicious lunch fare nor the al fresco dining, but like its sister shop is part of the gourmet emporium stocked with Chiarello’s olive oils, infused vinegars, spices and cooking gadgets and tools. We chose the wine bar to enjoy a light, reasonably priced lunch of paninis and salads with a flight of tasty wines. Delightful!

Fortified with lunch, we moved on to Quintessa for a tour and tasting. Guests are

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E welcomed by appointment only to the Rutherford appellation winery.

Our visit began with a hike to Dragon's Terrace overlooking Dragon's Lake and a magnificent view of rolling hills and vineyards. No cute shoes for this trip, leave them in the car. The reward at the top of the steep incline is a tasting of Illumination, a crisp, delicious Sauvignon Blanc and one of Agustin Huneeus’s wines. Back in the tasting room, we sipped Quintessa 2006, 2007, 2008 vintages while nibbling Bellwether Farms sheep’s milk Pepato, Central Coast Dairy’s Goat Gouda and Matos Dairy cow’s milk, St. George. Fabulous!

An unplanned stop at Paraduxx (a Duckhorn division) along the Silverado Trail was an unexpected treat. Beautifully rendered labels feature woodland ducks framed to look like postage stamps (see image). The commissioned artwork done for the inception of Paraduxx in 1994 have since been retired and replaced by a more consistent rendering for the brand. We tried their 2008 Napa Valley Red Wine, a bold blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and small amounts of Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. We also tasted 2007 and 2004 with Point Reyes Toma, a farmstead table cheese similar to asiago and an offering of Mimolette, reminiscent of Dutch Edam.

Perfect pairing!

With no time for a nap, we proceeded to dinner at La Toque, owned and operated by Chef Ken Frank. The Michelin One Star is now located at the new Westin Verasa in downtown Napa. We were lucky enough to join a group of chefs from Club Culinaire for a dinner sponsored by Maple Leaf Farms, Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte and Crocker Starr. My favorite course from the amazing menu was Gougeres (French filled cheese pastries), duck rillettes, house cured gravlax, and pickled chefs garden vegetables. Delectable!

The next morning we toured Schramsberg for more world-class sparkling wines located in the northern part of the valley, between St. Helena and Calistoga. As many as 1.7 million bottles are aged for two to seven years in Schramsberg’s hillside caves originally dug in 1870 by the Chinese. We were fortunate to experience a torch lit tasting inside those caves. Currently covering 34,000 square feet, a consistent temperature and humidity level are maintained — essential environment for the flavor development of sparkling wines. Bubbly!

Drinking was again followed by eating (detect a pattern?) We selected lighter choices for lunch at Solbar, the restaurant in the Continued on page 16

QuIcK STOpS & LInKS

M A K E C O N TA C T

étoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon 1 California Dr, Yountville, CA 94559 888.242.6366 www.chandon.com Lunch: 11:30 am – 2:30 pm Thursday - Monday Dinner: 6:00 pm – 9:00 pm Thursday - Monday

Chef Perry Hoffman WHAT IS YOUR ANNIVERSARY WITH THIS RESTAURANT? 4 years.

AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK? 60.

1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY: Growing up in the French Laundry kitchen, I remember chewing on a slice of roasted veal tenderloin with basil aioli.

WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? Growing up in my grandparents’ restaurant, lured by the science and lore of the kitchen and just from being influenced at such a young age.

WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE? Contemporary, naturalistic, balanced French Mediterranean cuisine.

SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE: Medai sashimi: fresh verjus, mint, white soy (simple).

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Radish or ginger (hard choice).

WHAT'S THE BEST THING ABOUT WORKING IN NAPA VALLEY? Working amongst great chef’s and talent, incredible purveyors, passionate cooks and of course, the wine.

WHAT'S THE WORST THING ABOUT WORKING AT A TOURIST DESTINATION? Feeding guests that are too stubborn to try new things (aka green salad syndrome).

SINCE YOU WERE BORN AND RAISED IN THE NAPA VALLEY, WHERE AND HOW DO YOU FIND OUTSIDE INSPIRATION TO KEEP YOUR MENUS FRESH AND UNIQUE TO THE AREA? At étoile this past year we have really gotten hooked on foraged foods from the valley and abroad. Other restaurants such as Noma in Denmark have inspired such eye opening ways of cooking as well as dealing with ingredients and how they are adapted to final dishes.

QUICK STOPS

Pam Starr of Crocker & Starr, Casali and Bridesmaids

www.quintessa.com

We stopped at Dean and Deluca for a quick visit

wines for a sample of her delicious wines. Pam’s

www.latoque.com

with our friend Barry Pierce and perused the

winemaking roots born at UC Davis ere developed

www.schramsberg.com

extensive selection of kitchen ware and gourmet

through her internship at Sonoma Cutrer, and job

www.smithmadrone.com www.smithmadrone.com

delicacies, both prepared and raw.

experience at Edna Valley, Carmenet and Spottswoode.

www.pointreyescheese.com

Our friend Chef Michel Cornu recently took over the kitchen ops at Raymond Vineyards in

Bouchon Bakery - Coffee and luscious sweets to go for the road trip back to the airport.

conjunction with the complete overhaul of the

www.latoque.com www.latoque.com www.solagecalistoga.com www.raymondvineyards.com

property, tasting rooms, etc. that promise to

LINKS

www.crockerstarr.com

continue to evolve.

www.chandon.com www.kellyflemingwine.com

www.bridesmaidwines.com

www.napastyleottimocafe.com

www.bouchonbakery.com

We squeezed in a brief visit with our new friend

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

15

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E Continued from page 15 Calistoga spa hotel Solage. The user-friendly menu is laid out with side-by-side choices of lighter, healthier menu items next to hearty cuisine items. For example the chilled sweet corn soup with avocado, lime and cilantro was next to lemon-lime soup with lemongrass, lime leaf, jasmine rice, coconut milk, broccoli florets. While both sound fairly virtuous the sweet corn was the healthier and our choice. The first flavor-filled spoonful confirmed our decision to go light. Other choices are more obvious — Alaskan halibut tacos vs. Maine lobster roll, peach salad vs. sol fries or chicken paillard vs double cheeseburger. Every bite a pleasure!

That afternoon we continued the moveable feast to Kelly Fleming Wines.

Tucked in tree-covered hills, vines and olive trees, the red-tile roofed stone winery gave the entire scene a Tuscan feel. The cave, blasted from hillside rock that backs the tasting room, is extraordinary. The mother-daughter team who run the winery and tasting room add warmth and hospitality to the space.

Kelly (mother) and Colleen (daughter) oversee this perfect venue for tasting the

16

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Colleen, who got her culinary degree from the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, VT, is happy to coordinate and prepare private dining affairs. Reservations are a must for the cellar view alone but the memorable wines reveal a hands-on involvement in every part of the process, from growing grapes to bottling. A treat!

Our last wine tasting had to be postponed until next trip but we did bring home some wines from Smith-Madrone to experience their Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tours and tastings are by appointment, gratis and are always conducted by one of the Smith brothers. Founded in 1971 by Stuart and Charles Smith, they added Madrone to their vineyard’s name because Smith Wine just didn’t seem enough.

The madrone tree thrives on their property and is easily recognized by its red-brown trunks, red branches and shiny evergreen foliage.

Their slightly sweet 2009 Riesling is balanced with high acidity and complexity. The 2008 Chardonnay, aged in oak, is delicious and designed to age. The 2004 Cabernet from the estate's 34-year-old, dry-farmed vines at the

top of Spring Mountain was aged for 22 months in new American Oak barrels then bottled unfiltered. Must try!

GETTInG ThERE There are several ways to get to Napa Valley: DRIVING FROM: Newport Beach, 445 miles, 7-8 hours Oakland, 50 miles, 1 hour San Francisco 55 miles, 1 hour Sacramento, 60 miles, 1 hour Santa Rosa, 41 miles, 55 minutes DIRECT FLIGHTS DAILY: LAX to Oakland: 1 hour 15 mins LAX to San Francisco: 1 hour 5 mins LAX to Santa Rosa: 1 hour 33 mins Long Beach to Oakland: 1 hour 20 mins LGB to San Francisco: 1 hour 23 mins LGB to Sacramento: 1 hour 24 mins John Wayne to Sacramento: 1 hour 25 mins JW to San Fran: 1 hour 28 mins JW to Oakland : 1 hour 25 mins

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

SO

B

* Y

SPO

N

F

DANI E WEST LS ERN MEA PACK T ERS

E

*

PRO

IL

CH

EF

RED

Photo by Michael Rutt

by Suzanna Hoang

Chef Greg Daniels

I

n a town where the trees sway with cool, winter breezes, and the community shops, chats and eats along historic sidewalks, the perfectly situated Haven Gastropub fits right in. Like its home in Old Towne Orange, Haven settles right into the fabric of old-world coziness with a modern flair, like it was supposed to be there all along. Inside, with its stone and vintage wood interior, Haven is just as inviting as its address. Locals agree, with regulars coming in three to four times a week. Chef and partner Greg Daniels’ hard work and passion for life are two things that ring true for one of the hardest working men in Orange County.

Chef Daniel’s steadfast belief in quality of product and service shows in his simple yet fresh interpretations of how pub food should be represented. Daniels and his team have helped the public gradually understand what the term of gastropub truly means. “It’s a casual space with good, freshly cooked food and a good selection of beer, wine, and spirits. A good place for anyone to hang. It’s not just a bar,” Daniels said. It’s a welcoming perspective that reflects his personality and life’s work.

Red Bull energy drink in hand, Chef Daniels, 35, sits as he recounts his journey of growth over past and recent years. These days, he is still deep in the nurturing stages of his third restaurant opening, Haven in Pasadena. In another area that feels like “walking down the street with your family kind of vibe”, downtown Pasadena, similar to Old Towne Orange, also has a comforting presence. Now called Haven Collective, Daniels runs Haven Gastropub Old Towne Orange, + Brewery Old Pasadena and Taco Asylum at Continued on page 18

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

17

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

M A K E C O N TA C T

Haven Gastropub 190 S Glassell St, #C&D Orange, CA 92866 714.221.0680 www.havencollective.com Open daily 11:00 am – 2:00 am

Chef Greg Daniels AVERAGE NUMBER OF HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK? 70.

WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? When I worked in the front of the house, it had to do with the flexibility of my schedule. I could work a few nights a week, and make the money that most people made working 5 days/40 hours.

Continued from page 17 The Camp in Costa Mesa.

As a chef and businessman who works an average of 60 to 80 hours a week, Chef Daniels stays consistently on top of his game.

Hiring quality cooks and servers has certainly been a challenge in this economy, where the line of quality of standard and quantity of eager young professionals is very fine.

Patience becomes a virtue as figuring out numbers and dollar signs for the logistics of a synergistic staff do not come easy.

Employment sources such as Great-Taste.net, Craigslist.org and Starchefs.com showed applicant pools both deep and shallow.

Restaurant recruiter and staffer Brad Metzger was finally called for hiring expertise, but filtering applicants to support the Haven staff remains difficult.

Every applicant with sufficient restaurant experience is asked to do a oneday kitchen audition called a stage (rhymes

IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? Writer.

Haven Burger

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: Salt - I even have the Morton Salt girl tattooed on my shoulder.

Our patty consists of 65% chuck meat, 15%

with garage). Chef Daniels filters through cooks by allowing them prepare and plate up two of their own dishes.

If those dishes pass his plating and palate tests sharing his eye for detail, he watches the cooks’ efficiency and speed for the remainder of the shift. Only a few from a sea of applicants make the final cut. At Daniels’ side are sous chefs, managers and partners that understand and help his flow and commitment to quality.

At his core, Greg Daniels is an individual who believes artistic challenges lead to personal and professional growth. Growing up around cooking at home and love of the arts, he brought that into his adult life. Having built great teams at the helm of Haven in Orange, Taco Asylum, and now Haven in Pasadena, his mind can rest a little easier.

Menu development on Daniels’ team is an open, creative process. His managers and sous chefs also appreciate the creative

1/4 C

Garlic - minced Salt to taste

short rib, and 20% pork fat.

Place yolks in a medium mixing bowl, combine

HOBBIES: Guitar, reading, writing, travel, eating.

COMPONENTS

FAVORITE DISH TO EAT: Miso beef tongue.

with water, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, and

Haven custom grind patty (9 oz)

garlic. Begin whisking in a slow stream of oil

Brioche bun

until you achieve a thick mayonnaise consistency.

Garlic aioli

Add cayenne and salt and whisk until smooth.

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Red onion.

Roasted red bell peppers Pickled red onions

PICKLED RED ONIONS

YEARS IN BUSINESS: FOH: 14, BOH: 7

Arugula

4C

WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE? Warm, creative, fun.

WHAT 3 WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR MANAGEMENT STYLE? Firm, respectful, calm.

PREVIOUS INDUSTRY EMPLOYERS: Pascal Olhats (Tradition), Andrew Sutton (Napa Rose), Sterling Fogg (Sterling's Cucina), House of Blues, Dave and Busters, Bobby McGee's, Slidebar, Heat Ultra Lounge, Mesa.

CULINARY HERO: Thomas Keller - he strives for perfection in everything he does and usually achieves it.

18

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

Red onion - sliced Rice wine vinegar (as needed)

St. Agur blue cheese Cook burgers to desired temperature/ doneness

Slice red onions and cover with vinegar in a

and melt cheese on top of patty. Cut brioche

large enough container. Let marinate for at

buns in half and toast the cut sides, spread

least 2 hours, preferably 6-8 hours. Drain off

aioli on each side. Place patty on bottom half

vinegar and use onions in burger assembly.

of brioche, layer it first with Arugula, next with peppers and pickled red onions, and top with

ROASTED RED BELL PEPPERS

remaining side of brioche.

8

GARLIC AIOLI 3

Egg yolks

Red bell peppers Blended olive/canola oil (as needed)

Coat peppers with oil to assist in roasting.

1/4 C

White wine vinegar

Place peppers directly on stovetop and char

1/4 C

Water

the outside on all sides. Once all peppers are

Juice of two lemons

fully charred, put them in a container and cover

36 oz

Blended olive/ canola oil

with plastic wrap. Let sit for ten minutes and

3T

Dry mustard

begin peeling the outside skin off, reserving the

1T

Cayenne pepper

roasted flesh of the pepper. Use in burger assembly.

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E freedom. “My kitchen manager at Taco Asylum came up with the falafel taco and it sold out instantly. I trust her,” he says.

The clientele at Haven and Taco Asylum have gradually opened up their palates to curried goat, octopus, lamb neck and goose pastrami. “We’ve gained people’s trust. If they love a good pastrami sandwich, we’ve got one with our own twist and it’s still cooked slow and fresh.” The clientele in Pasadena are more open to game meats so the new Haven menu will feature them. At the time of its early December opening, Haven in Pasadena shared the same menu as the Orange location. However, with a larger kitchen, Haven in Pasadena will soon take advantage with more special menu offerings.

“The space is so much bigger. The pastry department in particular will have much more space to bring ideas to life” he said.

With a solid team of chefs, Chef Daniels proudly boasts: his kitchens make everything from scratch. The goose pastrami, house ketchup, cured salmon, and charcuterie selections are just some of the products made in house.

Alongside his cooked-from-scratch values, Daniels and his team refuse to purchase anything that isn’t local, sustainable, humanely raised, and/or organic. If it means paying $35 instead of $12 for cage-free eggs, he does it.

“I’ve read and researched the topic. I know too much. I need to stay true to the food and the ethics.” he said.

Winter at Haven brings comfort in the form of braised meats, cassoulets, and pot pies with hearty, rich sauces. This year his menu features pheasant pot pie. For Daniels even Jidori chicken didn’t push the envelope enough. He also looks forward to discussions with his meat purveyor about what kinds of interesting cuts he can incorporate into his specials.

In an incestuous industry where social and print media perpetuates news from every angle, Chef Daniels maintains that honesty is always the best quality. “Why are people okay with mediocrity? I don’t understand it”, he says. With more tasting menus, staff training, social calendars, and his new path of fatherhood on the horizon, Greg Daniels stays happily busy. He keeps his friends and family close to him. “It’s all about finding and maintaining balance,” he says. “I still learn something new every day”.

Alongside his cooked-from-scratch values, Daniels and his team refuse to purchase anything that isn’t local, sustainable, humanely raised, and/or organic.

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

19

THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Inside Kitchen Nightmares Luigi’s D Italia in Anaheim

by Linda Mensinga

“Yes, I would do it all over again,” concludes Tony Catizone, co-owner of Luigi’s D’Italia in Anaheim about being on Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, “except next time I would have the preparation and experience of having done it once.” He and brother Chef Luigi Catizone are both grateful and glad to have been on the show. “We thought it couldn’t hurt, and maybe Gordon Ramsay could give us some direction.” uigi Catizone, 51, reported business has increased 40% since his prime time debut. “I hope it lasts,” he comments.

Dominick Catizone, founder and father to Luigi and Tony, retired to Italy in 1999. “He loved being a host and had a charm like no one else. He talked to everyone and loved the food. He would sip the wine as he served it and sigh over how good it tasted.”

L

20

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

The problems they were facing are not uncommon to restaurants. Regular guests get older, don’t come as often, move on or pass away. The menu doesn’t change and finding new customers is a challenge.

Added to the financial challenges of owning a business, family disagreements between the brothers caused problems that were evident in the show.

As per Kitchen Nightmare formula, Ramsay tried several dishes and

pronounced them "horrible," "disgusting," and "dreadful." Luigi disagreed with his assessment of his seafood dish that Ramsay called “bland” and “mushy” on camera. “It upset me a lot,” says Luigi.

“I didn’t think some of the things he criticized were that bad. I looked at it like a car. We need a tune-up but not an overhaul,” says Tony. “I didn’t really know what to expect. I had only watched one episode and it had been a while. It was stressful and I wasn’t fully prepared.”

Ramsay came in that same evening to observe dinner service. “People came in we’d never seen before and they complained. I can count on one hand the complaints we’ve gotten in 30 years,” Luigi maintains.

“The worst thing was the stress of family fighting,” Tony relates. Being under scrutiny for seven days only added to the pressure, “I would go home thinking I was still miked up or being watched.”

Ramsay set up a meeting with the family and staff to discuss service issues.

Employees complained about the lack of quality control and family arguments creating a stressful atmosphere. Grace, Luigi’s wife, was the target of some criticism. The Kitchen Nightmare editors clearly love family drama choosing closeups of tears and angry outbursts and conflicts with little time left for food.

Ramsay reminded them they had to work together to fix the restaurant. “He played psychiatrist, but it was mostly common sense,” Luigi said.

The following day he worked with Luigi and Grace to make sausage from scratch.

“He 86’d the one we were using and gave us a recipe for homemade sausage,” says Tony, “that’s now my favorite.” Ramsay worked with Luigi on other new recipes which the staff sampled and heartily approved.

Words of wisdom came in the form of a surprise video appearance from Italy by Papa Dominick, who urged his sons to work together. Tearful faces added to the drama.

The overnight remodel delighted the staff and family. The restaurant reopened to enthusiastic crowds. “The walls have more of an artistic touch. We added family pictures to give it our touch,” Tony reports.

After the revamped menu took the place

THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE of the older one, the family got complaints from guests who missed some of their favorite items. “My brother decided it was best to keep our old menu and Ramsay’s version as well,” says Tony.

The plan now is to track which dishes sell best and create a new menu combining the best selling items from the old and new.

“I think I personally have to look at myself and see how I can improve, approach and greet more people. It is still difficult though because there are still family differences,” Tony says, “I’m learning to put things in the past and accept change.”

Both Luigi and Tony are very positive on the experience five months after the taping.

Luigi mentioned one of Ramsay’s ideas, “The chili oil instead of butter, (attractively bottled on every tabletop), saves us money. I went through four cases of butter a week, now less than one. He did a lot for us. We now attract foodies and new people.”

Luigi’s D Italia, 801 South State College, Anaheim, CA 92806 714-490-0990 www.luigisditaliaoc.com

Left: Manager/partner Tony Catizone; right: Fried calamari with spicy arrabbiata sauce $9.

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

21

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

Protecting Yourself from Ice Government crack downs on I-9s

by Michael Wildes

ver the past few years, worksite investigations have been heating up across the United States, especially in the restaurant industry. In 2008, U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (“ICE”) made over 1,100 criminal arrests tied directly to the enforcement of such investigations. These arrests included business owners, managers, and supervisors who were convicted of criminal offenses associated with the knowing hire of undocumented workers, Social Security fraud, money laundering, and identity theft.

In addition, ICE took over 5,100 undocumented workers into custody based on immigration violations revealed during worksite investigations. So if you think that your restaurant is safe from this massive deep-fry, think again.

O

22

www.great-taste.net | JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012

WHY YOU SHOULD GET THE 411 ON YOUR FORM I-9 In March 2006, ICE investigated and raided three Kawasaki restaurants – a small group of Japanese eateries in Baltimore, Maryland. The result? 15 undocumented workers were detained and the three business owners were arrested for money laundering and harboring of illegal aliens. The owners were forced to forfeit over $1.1 million dollars in assets to ICE. In September 2007, McDonalds was subject to immigration raids in 11 of their restaurants in northern Nevada. In the raids, 54 undocumented workers were arrested and detained and seven were deported to Mexico — without Happy Meals. One franchisee pled guilty in federal court to supplying illegal workers with false identification and agreed to pay a $1 million fine.

In September 2008, a co-owner of El Pollo Rico restaurant in Wheaton,

of work. Failure to do so can result in significant civil and criminal penalties. In fact, the Department of Homeland Security (“DHS”) increased penalties that are assessed against businesses that knowingly hire undocumented workers by 25%, effective March 27, 2008.

In an effort to reduce the illegal employment of undocumented workers, ICE conducts random audits of all businesses’ I-9s, especially those in areas known to employ undocumented workers.

In the event of an audit, employers have three days to present their I-9s for inspection. These I-9s are examined for missing and/or incorrect information and penalties are assessed accordingly.

SO WHAT CAN YOU DO? Perform internal audits regularly. An internal review will detect and correct erros and ensure that 1-9s have been completed properly for your workforce. It also demonstrates a good faith effort to remain compliant in the event of a

“If you can’t stand the heat then get out of the kitchen,” that is, if you are an undocumented worker or someone who knowingly employs one.

Maryland was convicted of money laundering and conspiracy to commit alien harboring in connection with the operation of the restaurant. He was sentenced to 15 months in prison, followed by three years of supervised release. The owner was then forced to forfeit $7.2 million that resulted from the illegal activities along with many items of his own personal property.

The Immigration Reform and Control Act of 1986 (“IRCA”) mandates that as of November 6, 1986, all U.S. employers are required to have a Form I-9, Employment Eligibility Verification, on file for each newly hired employee, citizen and noncitizen alike. This form, which verifies the employment eligibility of the newly hired individual, was updated effective April 3, 2009, and must be completed by the employer or its representative within three business days of the employee’s first day

government audit.

Avoid employment practices that could be considered discriminatory. Employees must be treated equally regardless of their citizenship, immigration status, national origin or native language. For example employers may not ask to see work authorization document sbefore hiring on the ground that someone appears “foreign”.

Provide I-9 training for your staff.

Include all human resource personnel, as well as other employees who are in the field.

Appoint a compliance officer. Task one individual with I-9 completion and the authority to speak with ICE if needed.

Michael Wildes is a managing partner in the law firm of Wildes & Weinberg P.C. with offices in New York, NY and Englewood, New Jersey. michael@wildeslaw.com

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Aged 20 Years & Served Up

by Joel Black

A

Hollywood staple stands the

then paired it with the fresh flavors of apples

test of time yet grooves with the

and pears, accented with ginger, lemon and

new trends of the LA cocktail

clove. My main focus was creating a balanced

movement. Slinging spins on

cocktail program minus the pretentious airs.

classics

like

the

Pepper

Given the winter weather I leave you with

“Smash” and 007’s Vesper

Fall Haze, a seasonal addition to the new Three

Martini, Three Clubs lounge has always kept the

Club repertoire.

Hollywood locals thirst quenched, but now wants to widen the scope of their cocktail menu

FALL HAZE

to cater to their diverse array of guests. Once

2 oz

Original Moonshine

famed for their role in Swingers (1996

1/2 oz

Lemon juice

comedy/drama), they are now ready to pull up

1 oz

Apple juice

their bootstraps and add new accompaniments

1 oz

Pear juice

to their establishment while keeping the

1/4 oz

Ginger juice

integrity of the space intact. In search of fresh

3/4 oz

Clove syrup (recipe follows)

fruit libations and stiff lip classics, Three Clubs

I was completely psyched to take on such a legendary bar. To be quite honest, there wasn’t much that needed fixing. Like your favorite pair of faded Levis, there is history in that bar. There are years of birthdays, rocker legends, one-night stands, and memories you can smell in the air and see in the walls. brought me in to revitalize the back bar and

CLOVE SYRUP

cocktail menu.

This one is super easy. Take a small saucepan

I was completely psyched to take on such a

and lightly toast 1 tablespoon of whole cloves. In

legendary bar. To be quite honest, there wasn’t

a separate pot bring 3 cups of water to a boil,

much that needed fixing. Like your favorite pair

add cloves, 3 cups of sugar and immediately

of faded Levis, there is history in that bar. There

reduce the heat to low. Stir, simmer for 30

are years of birthdays, rocker legends, one-night

minutes, bottle and refrigerate.

stands, and memories you can smell in the air and see in the walls.

COCKTAIL

When it comes to a great back bar, less is

Pour all ingredients into a mixing glass, add ice

more. My first move was to remove all the

and shake lightly for 5 seconds. Strain the

unnecessary items and focus on a concise list of

liquids into a double old fashion (10-12 oz rock

spirits aimed to please everyone. Craft spirits,

glass) over rocks and garnish with apple slices,

distilled by hand in copper pot stills somewhere

cranberry and cinnamon.

in the heart of America, are all the rage now just

Mixologist Joel Black is co-owner of Black

like craft beers. I brought in brands like Original

LAB Ventures. Visit www.blacklab-ventures.com

Moonshine to keep that rocker rebellion alive,

or www.threeclubs.com.

JANUARY • FEBRUARY 2012 | great taste

23

digital

catalog

advertising

web

studio

location

D AV I TA . C O M