Great Taste Magazine 2012 Mar/Apr Issue

BRINING TIPS 10 MARCH • APRIL 2012

PICKLING FOR FUN & FLAVOR 14

STELLAR TEAM MEMBERS 20

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA

FROM THE EDITOR

T E R I’S TAK E ou’ve probably noticed how popular pickling has become or maybe you have tried preserving yourself. Just about anything can be pickled and we’ve got some fun ideas on what and how from some local aficionados. Pickling is one the oldest forms of food preservation but now cooks are using preserves to add acid, flavor and texture. An inexpensive way to add your own personality to any dish, pickling is easy and a great way to use produce at its peak of flavor and lowest seasonal cost.

In this issue we also cover a little about brining. The technique improves the flavor, texture and moisture content of leaner cuts of meat. We included tips on what ingredients to add to brine and how long to keep them submerged.

You’ll enjoy reading our new column on unsung hospitality heroes. We’re featuring the bright lights in the hospitality world who are not the Manager, Owner or Executive Chef but deserves every bit as much credit.

Next issue we’re concentrated on BBQ and all those beautiful ingredients that bloom with the additional flavors from smoke and time. You are invited to share your recipes and techniques. Just email teri@great-taste.net.

Cheers!

MORE THAN CHEFS

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Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s

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CONTENT F E AT U R E S 1 4 PICKLE ME PINK, PURPLE

STACKED iPads let guests customize

The tangy texture of pickled vegetables

their orders

CHEF MANNY GONZALES

INSIDE 4 THE BEET Find out who’s hot and new now while acknowledging all the greatness and philanthropy in this generous industry

5

OPERATIONS

OR GREEN add a bold accent to food

17

22

Content

BOOKS Heston Blumenthal at home

THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS Midnight Lush cocktail recipe with

23

BEVERAGES Myths of wine storage and preservation

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 BAKING RACK 7 SWEET SPOT 7 SPICE RACK 9 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 9 HOW GREEN ARE YOU 1 1 FOOD TRUCK FEVER 1 2 SUR LE MENU

Peruvian pisco

20

FRONT OF THE HOUSE Stellar Team Member Rigo Miranda

On The Cover Pan Seared Skuna Bay Salmon Served with fresh English peas, wild mushrooms, corn, Spanish chorizo & sautéed pea greens topped with saffron corn foam by Chef Manny Gonzales of TAPS Fish House & Brewery in Brea. See more Skuna Bay Salmon and Chef Manny’s recipe on page 13. Photo by Michael Rutt.

GABRIEL CALIENDO

ADAM NAVIDI

KATIE AVERILL

JASON STEIN

Corporate Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

Adam Navidi Catering &

chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

Future Foods Farms

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

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THE

BEET

THE

BEET

INSIDE

PRODUCE

PICK H OF THE MONTH

Bill’s Bees Wildflower Honey AEROSPACE

ENGINEER

BILL

LEWIS

DECIDED HE NEEDED A NEW CAREER DIRECTION MORE THAN 20 YEARS AGO. While helping a friend board horses at a stable in Tujunga Canyon, he encountered bees that reminded him of a childhood Boy Scout badge he earned. Now, Bill’s Bees, nestled in the Angeles National Forest, is home to 400 bee colonies that produce honey from pesticide-free buckwheat and black button sage wildflowers. Keeping true to making the best product possible, Bill moves his bees to different orchards each season depending on what’s blooming. In mid-winter, the bees swarm around almond orchards and early spring finds Bill and his bees among California’s citrus trees. Bill’s Bees also makes beeswax soaps, candles, lip balms, and lotions. Try this winner of Los Angeles Magazine’s Best of LA “Best Local Honey” to liven up your next coffee cake, tea or salad dressing. Try nature’s sweetener: honey.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with small, local family farmers committed

to

sustainable

agriculture,

personable production, and propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

IPsters Unite – Monday March 20 at 3pm we’ll be having a HIP tasting at Eva’s Caribbean Kitchen to show our support and help kick start her re-growth after the Feb 18 fire at the restaurant. The early morning fire, caused by a faulty light fixture caused damage to

the storage areas to the South Laguna restaurant. As we all know, insurance is a great thing but you never quite recoup what you lost during the catastrophe. We hope you can make it. We’ll be emailing more info soon.

Email teri@great-taste.net for reservations and/or donations.

INSIDE

AD6x5_NB.pdf 1 2/23/2012 2:39:02 PM

WE’RE BACK...

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

Southern California’s Premier Food, Beer, Wine & Entertainment Festival

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Joel Black Chef Gabriel Caliendo Suzanna Hoang Aaron Kennedy Chris Kern Linda Mensinga Sarah Ruiz

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ART CMY

Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

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Now Accepting Applications for Chefs, Restaurants and Wineries.

Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

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BOOKS

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855-2-YUMMYOC (855-298-6696) ext. 769

BOOKS

his eclectic book of tips and recipes by Heston Blumenthal offers helpful advice on a multitude of different cuisines. Chef Blumenthal is the owner of The Fat Duck, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the UK. In his book, he not only reveals his delicious recipes, but explains in detail how they will work. Chapters on soups, salads, pasta, sides and desserts are liberally sprinkled with color photos.

A unique part of the book contains Blumenthal’s thoughts on brining. Blumenthal devotes two separate sections to the art of low-level brining, and explains the advantages, as well as the challenges, of this timeless process. He describes the steps necessary for brining foods as large and tough as porkbelly, to foods as small and delicate as fish. He also explains how adding the right amount of salt to a brine actually moistens the meat, and how to compensate for time with concentration.

Blumenthal’s instructions are precise and easy to follow, and his chapters are prefaced with an explanation of each approach. To order this book and many other great titles, please visit www.great-taste.net/books.

T

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

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INSIDE

THE BAKING

RACK

by Chef Katie Averill

HOLY COCONUTS! AS A LOVER OF ALL THINGS COCONUT (top three flavors), I have always eaten it with guilt attached… the fat, the calories, the clogging! Coconut flesh and coconut milk are 80% or more fat, so while loving my coconut curry sauces, coconut smoothies, and soups, it was definitely my “bad” for the day. When making my sorbets, I would always have to say “my sorbets are a non-fat and healthy dessert choice except, of course, for the coconut”.

Suddenly, coconut water is popping up everywhere in grocery stores. It is the new agave, the new cake pop. I was surprised to see it being linked with “fitness” and “energy” drinks. My fattening coconut is good for me? Upon immediate investigation, I found out that coconut water is virtually fat free and has two times the potassium of bananas. Many other beneficial claims are being made as well, but I’ll stick with those two facts.

So I bought a few of those drinks as well as straight coconut water expecting them to be, well, watery, and found that they were delicious. I put them to work in my favorite Thai recipes by making my own coconut milk combining the drinks with skim milk and had the same awesome results, without the fat and calories. This pastry chef, contrary to popular belief, likes to eat healthy in real life.

I challenge you health conscious chefs out there to create your coconut dishes with coconut water and make sure you share your great recipes with me! Skinny Pina Colada anyone?

Contact Chef Katie Averill at KDCOOKS@aol.com.

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INSIDE

SWEET SPOT

by Suzanna Hoang

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

PETER PIPER PICKED… THE HOLIDAYS HAVE FINALLY RELEASED THEIR GRIP ON BOTH MY PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL RESPONSIBILITIES: I’ve survived another pressure-filled season. One of my favorite things to do in January and February is to do some pickling. What am I pickling these days? Italian cherry peppers for one. Some I do for my friends and family, and some I do for the Lazy Dog. I usually pickle what I can’t finish eating from the garden. Due to the warm and mild weather this year, I recently had tons of Italian cherry peppers that grew well into the fall and winter. What to do with pecks of peppers? You know how that story goes. I clean the peppers with fresh water, and then make a pickling solution of white wine vinegar, bay leaf, black peppercorn, water, mustard seeds, allspice, salt, sugar and red chile flakes. After a quick boil to incorporate the flavors I pour the

Sensitive Sweets: Yummy Treats for Everyone WHEN

HER

YOUNG

SON

BRADLEY

pickling solution into sanitized mason jars filled with the peppers, seal the lid and allow them to sit at room temperature (60 degrees in winter)

WAS

owner and revels in the rewarding challenges of her

DIAGNOSED WITH SEVERE FOOD ALLERGIES as

life. “Being a business owner is tough,” she says.

At the Lazy Dog, I develop our bar drink recipes

an infant, owner and head baker Melanie Hohman of

“However, I have always worked hard, and now I

in addition to the food. A recent revamp of our

Sensitive Sweets in Fountain Valley embarked on a

have a more fulfilling job. Refining recipes has been

brunch menu has led me down the path to a

mission to find ways to keep him healthy. As a

a rewarding experience.”

variety of Bloody Marys. I made several different

for a week. Crack open the jar and go to town!

trained civil engineer, she already had a knack for

Sensitive Sweets does not run the risk of cross-

flavors and combinations, including a Kimchi

hard work and finding creative strategies for

contamination. “Our products are all specifically

Mary, a Bacon-Corn Nut Mary, and a California

solutions. Her initial passion and motivation for her

aimed for those who normally would not be able to

Mary. I serve pickled lotus root with the Kimchi

new bakery came when her son’s first birthday was

enjoy baked treats. Those with food sensitivities are

Bloody Mary. The bacon-corn nut Mary is served

on the horizon and she couldn’t find a cake that

our biggest fans.” Melanie says.

with some pickled jumbo pepperoncini and the

would suit Bradley’s limited diet. Because, in

Love through sharing is the best form of therapy

California Mary with some quail eggs that I

Hohman’s opinion, any child’s birthday party

according to Melanie. Her business has helped bring

pickle (Quail is California’s state bird.) I use

shouldn’t

her family and a community of people together who

beets in some of my pickling marinades to

otherwise didn’t have the platform to share their

create a bright purple color that looks great and

Sensitive Sweets, opened 3 years ago, and is a

similar experiences with food allergies. Her sons come

adds a depth of sweetness. Additionally, I get

dedicated gluten-free, nut-free, dairy-free, and egg-

to the bakery with her every Saturday to share smiles

pickled beets out of the process. Chef Gabriel

free bakery. A natural-born leader, Melanie, 37,

and pick out treats. “It’s the highlight of my week,”

Caliendo is the Vice President of Food &

juggles roles of motherhood, baker, and business

Melanie says, of the bond she and her boys share.

Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.

be

without

the

most

important

centerpiece: the birthday cake.

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

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INSIDE

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INSIDE

HOW GREEN ARE YOU? Keeping Green at a|k|a An American Bistro CHEF JAMES LAMBRINOS IS DOING HIS PART IN

sinks, but not in the other areas when getting as

PASADENA at a|k|a An American Bistro to minimize

much water into a pot as fast as possible is needed.

his kitchen’s impact on the planet.

Chef Lambrinos, 41, was born and raised in a

WHAT DO YOU RECYCLE?

family of restaurateurs in New York and was

We recycle just about everything here. Our cardboard

introduced to the world of food at an early age. Food

is recycled just outside our back door. The bottles

quickly became his whole life as he worked at the

and plastics are given to our dishwashers at the end

family business while attending The Culinary

of the day and by the end of the week, they can get

Institute of America. He gathered experience in New

as much as $300 in recyclables. Win/win.

York City, South Carolina and North Carolina before his arrival in California in 2011. Chef Lambrinos

WHAT KIND OF TO-GO CONTAINERS?

strives to produce clean, harmonious flavors while

We do not use compostable items, but do reuse our

practicing notable environment-friendly practices.

plastic containers. Our to-go containers are made

a|k|a An American Bistro

from recycled materials.

41 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, CA 91105 (626) 564-8111 www.akabistro.com

HOW ARE YOU SAVING ENERGY?

HOW DO YOU HANDLE FOOD PURCHASES AND

Heating and A/C are only used when needed. Lights

LEFTOVERS?

are turned off when not in use and all appliances are

We try our best to buy locally, but the bulk of our

also turned off when not needed.

We use energy efficient light bulbs where applicable.

food is purchased through our purveyors. We do buy organic, seasonal foods though. When it comes to

USE OF CHEMICALS?

seafood, we primarily try to buy wild caught.

I try and go organic when it comes to chemicals used

Generally we do not have many leftovers, but the

for cleaning and other applications. Some are better

leftovers that we do have are either applied toward

than others and some just don't work well enough for

another menu item or given to the staff for their

us. I am in constant contact with my purveyors

employee meal. Composting would be ideal but our

looking for new organic solutions.

resources are limited, so we do not compost.

When it comes to being green, we always try to self educate and at the least, we are open to new

WHAT ABOUT WATER EFFICIENCY?

green products and practices.

We use low flow nozzles for the dish area and hand

Cheese Pick of the Month OREGONZOLA BLUE CHEESE HOW DOES ONE AMERICANIZE AN ITALIAN CLASSIC? When Rogue Creamery attempted the interpretation of Gorgonzola cheese made in Gorgonzola, Italy, they created its cheesy Oregonian relative: Oregonzola. The Oregonzola Blue Cheese is an award winning dairy product both here in the US and abroad. Made with raw whole cow’s milk and aged for a minimum of 120 days in the creamery’s caves, this cheese has a tart and fruity taste accentuated by bright bluing that is paired with the creamiest texture of all Rogue Blue cheeses.

Wine pairings for Oregonzola Blue Cheese range from Syrah to Pinot Noir to Port. Fruit, notably pear, goes exceptionally well with this cheese. It can also make for a delicious fondue, or even be eaten on its own as the dénouement of a meal. For more information on Oregonzola Blue Cheese, Rogue Creamery cheeses, or other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

9

TRENDS

W

e see it happening in our restaurants

The Rise of the American Cocktail Culture

by Joel Black

and

bars:

to know the spirit in its most raw form. I do this because the art of mixology is not about masking

cucumber, basil, and liquor

the taste of bad liquor, like our brethren during

bottles that appear to be

Prohibition, but to appreciate the spirit,

from the roaring twenties.

accentuate its natural flavors and add depth to

We watch it on TV in

the drinking experience.

episodes of Mad Men or Boardwalk Empire.

What is this liquid phenomenon that is sweeping

Here is a great recipe to make at home and enjoy when the clock strikes midnight.

America’s metropolitan hubs? It is the greatest rise in the American cocktail culture since

MIDNIGHT LUSH

prohibition; it is small batch, pot distilled and

4

Red grapes

hand crafted, It is modern mixology, and it’s the

2

Blackberries

start of a beautiful thing.

5

Mint leaves

Artisanal spirits are popping up on every

1/2 oz

Lemon juice

back bar, store shelf and liquor cabinet in the

1/2 oz

Agave nectar

country. There are many great spirits out there.

1 1/2 oz Oro pisco Torontel

Currently, one Peruvian gem is taking the US by storm, and I welcome it with open arms and a

Place grapes, blackberries, mint and lemon

thirsty soul. Pisco is the national spirit of Peru

juice into a mixing glass. Muddle thoroughly

and is nothing more than distilled wine. It’s

until the grapes and blackberries are pulverized.

distilled to proof 40-43% (alcohol by volume),

Add agave, pisco and ice, shake hard for 8-10

meaning you can’t add water to the finished

seconds and strain into a martini glass. Garnish

distillate, and it’s usually made in a pot still.

with blackberries and a lemon twist or edible

ORO pisco is one of the first brands that has

carnation.

really harnessed all that pisco has to offer. ORO

Joel Black, Los Angeles based mixologist,

distills a varietal of expressions, all from

opened one of the first handcrafted cocktail bars

carefully cultivated estate grown grapes. I really

in Hollywood. He’s won multiple cocktail

appreciate the uniqueness that each grape

competitions, traveled the world and now

brings to the glass but I must say my favorite

consults for some of the top brands, bars and

varietal for mixing has to be ORO Torontel. The

companies in the business. His calling is to

Torontel pisco smells like a tall glass of Welch’s

spread the good word of a better way to drink,

and tastes of concord grapes, lemongrass and

share his recipes and quench the thirst of every

elderflower. Before mixing cocktails I like to get

hard working American.

Brining for Flavor and Moisture “IT KEEPS MEAT TENDER, MOIST AND FLAVORFUL,” Phil Knoke explains the advantages to brining. He would know, as chef and owner of Culinary Entertainment, formerly known as SteerCrazy International BBQ & Catering, in San Juan Capistrano. He advises that lean cuts of meat, those that take a long time to cook or dry out easily, lend themselves to brining.

A basic brine uses salt, sugar, water and other ingredients added by preference. The time the protein rests in the solution depends on the thickness and type of meat.

Knoke likes Jamaican spices on chicken, Hawaiian spices on fish and southwestern on meat. He also adds herbs, fruit juices and wine. “I personally prefer sea salt rocks. They are ground fresh just like peppercorns.” He usually brines over night or about 12 hours. “Pouring off brining liquid is a must or the sauce would be too salty.”

“You're going to laugh, but I use Coca-Cola and kosher salt as a brine for chunks of albacore or marlin before hot-smoking,” says SOL Cocina Executive Chef Deborah Schneider who brines pork racks, pork shank pork loin, marlin and brisket which marinates for 24 hours.

“I like kosher for brining but any will do. Just remember 16 parts water to 1 part salt,” advises Chef David Dennis of The Matador Cantina in Fullerton.

Dennis brines all of his chicken, including wings, and all his pork. “They tend to dry out if they are not brined. We’ve all had that dry Thanksgiving turkey.”

Dennis brines whole chickens or turkey between 6 and 12 hours. He gives pork 8 to 24 hours with the exception of pork loin that gets no more than two.

“I sometimes add sugar or liquid smoke, but rarely do I use herbs.”

Brand Chef Michael Stebner of True Food Kitchen points out another advantage of brining. “It allows you to get salt into the meat so the flavor runs through it, instead of just on the surface.” He brines poultry and pork but does not recommend beef or seafood. “Brining beef tends to discolor the flesh.”

Stebner favors sea salt and soy sauce when applicable. His favorite spices are cumin, chili powders, cinnamon, turmeric and ginger, “They can be used in many ways, combined or left alone. Don't forget fresh herbs too.” He also emphasizes using the lowest part of the refrigerator so as not to contaminate produce or other foods.

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

TRENDS

Food Truck Fever: Seabirds FOOD TRUCKS CONTINUE TO SATIATE THE PUBLIC’S APPETITE FOR

HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE NAME?

DINING ADVENTURE in an easy, approachable venue. As the only vegan food

It came to me in a dream.

truck in the OC, Seabirds is uniquely planet and animal friendly. Owner

HOW DO YOU MARKET TO YOUR CUSTOMERS?

Seabirds 949.463.2473 seabirdstruck.com

“Mama Bird” Stephanie Morgan believes in a healthy and sustainable life

Facebook, Twitter, Yelp, vegetarian sites, and driving a big billboard around

style and she’s found selling vegetable based dishes a challenge in the world

town.

of BBQ, sliders and burgers. Despite this her veggie niche wins hearts and

DO CUSTOMERS COMMENT ON YOUR PARTICIPATION IN THE FOOD

mouths all over Orange County. “I love introducing people to a new way of

NETWORK’S GREAT FOOD TRUCK RACE? WAS IT A GOOD THING FOR

eating. It makes my day when people say they thought they hated veggies but

YOUR BUSINESS, NOW THAT SOME TIME HAS PASSED?

love our food!”

The show was amazing for business; we got really lucky being picked! We have

Born and raised in Laguna Hills, Morgan, 27, graduated from UC San Diego

a lot of people comment on the show and love the part where we had to go to

with a degree in cultural anthropology and later moved to New York City to

the sausage factory.

become a broker’s assistant.

WHAT’S THE BEST THING ABOUT THE TRUCK VS A RESTAURANT? THE

Morgan became a vegan out of curiosity and educated herself on the topic.

Originally she wanted to understand the unpronounceable ingredients on food

WORST THING? The best thing about having a truck is being able to reach people all over

labels but after reading eight books on

town and being a part of lots of

food, food politics and nutrition she

cool events. The worst thing is

realized a change was called for.

breakdowns and the limitations of a

“I had no intention of going vegan

tiny kitchen.

but the things I read both shocked me

WHAT IS A TYPICAL DAY LIKE FOR

and upset me enough that I couldn't

YOU? WHEN CAN YOU TAKE A DAY

think about meat or cheese or eggs

OFF? HOW MANY HOURS DO YOU

the same way. It was difficult at first

WORK A DAY?

to change my diet and learn the ropes

I don’t have a typical day really.

—

and

Some days I wake up early and race

restaurants — but I love a good

around town all day, other days I pick

challenge and embraced it fully. I

up produce at the farm, do a lot of

started eating only fruits and veggies

prep work, and then answer emails.

find

the

best

brands

and whole grains and saw a huge

And some days I sleep in and let the

improvement in my health and energy. I fell in love with this new conscious

birds take care of everything. I try to take Sundays off.

way of eating and never looked back,” she says.

WHERE DO YOU PARK TO PREP OR OVERNIGHT?

Becoming a vegan wasn’t too difficult a transition, “I grew up with meat, but when I lived away I pretty much lived off veggie burritos and pasta.”

After returning to Orange County from New York, Morgan looked around for places to eat and came up short. “I really just wanted another vegan option so

Lots of people think I park the truck in my driveway but I don’t. All food trucks in Orange County have to park at a commissary. It’s basically our home base where we park, prep, fill up with water, empty our trash and grey water, plug in and get propane.

badly that I had to create it! I initially wanted to open a restaurant but decided

WHAT KINDS OF GREEN PRACTICES HAVE YOU IMPLEMENTED?

a food truck was a better way to test the market, gain some knowledge, and

Most basically, serving a plant based menu is green. We also source as local as

try out my recipes before I made a huge investment.”

Seabirds has been on television a couple of times already, in The Great

possible — from a neighboring farm, (Tanaka Farms, Irvine; Orange County Produce, Irvine). Additionally, all of our packaging and utensils are eco friendly.

Food Race and The Ellen Show. “We really wanted to get on The Ellen Show

DO YOU MISS ANYTHING AS A VEGAN?

because we are huge fans and love that she and Portia (Ellen’s wife Portia di

The only thing I really miss is a New York style cheese pizza. But there are

Rossi) are vegan,” says Morgan. After a silly video posted on YouTube and

some great pizza joints in NY that make an awesome vegan pizza that does the

several phone calls, Seabirds was invited to serve the audience in honor of

trick.

Ellen’s 1400th show. “We were extremely excited and went to the studios. We

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN THE OC?

served everyone and had a lot of fun.”

Right now my favorite is Freesoul Café in Tustin. They have amazing soups and

Recently, Morgan completed her first e-cookbook, The Seabirds Vegan

salads.

Revolution, available on her website. Like many other food truck proprietors,

Visit www.great-taste.net for Seabirds’ Grilled Tanaka Beets & Beet Greens

she plans to open her own restaurant some day. “I think Orange County needs

with Chive Dressing recipe from Morgan’s e cookbook, The Seabirds Vegan

many more vegan restaurants and I’d love to be one of them.”

Revolution.

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

11

SUR LE MENU

Skuna Bay Salmon almon is considered to be a healthy food choice, due to the high levels of protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamin D, however, not all salmon is created equal. With all the care and dedication given to raising salmon, only six percent graduate to the level of Skuna Bay Salmon, www.skunasalmon.com.

Paddy Glennon, VP of Sales at Santa Monica Seafood had this to say upon seeing the chefs’ reactions to the Skuna Bay Salmon. “It is the little things in life that make me push harder for my clients. To see the eyes on the chefs when they first open and touch the beauty and quality of the crafted Skuna Bay Salmon is just awesome.

I love to see how inspired they get; to receive a salmon of this level, firmness, clarity and flavor is not something that happens every day. It is great to see top culinarians act like kids on Christmas morning — I love that!”

S

Napa Rose at the Grand Californian Hotel – Anaheim Citrus cured Skuna Salmon Carpaccio with shaved endive, radish sprouts, lemon yogurt and pumpernickel croutons ................$18 Ocean Prime – Phoenix Ginger salmon, sugar snap peas, soy butter sauce ...............................................$30 Campanile – Los Angeles Olive Oil Poached Skuna Bay Salmon, asparagus, wild mushrooms, parsley pesto ..........$30 TAPS Fish House – Brea & Corona Pan Seared Skuna Bay Salmon, fresh English peas, mushrooms, corn, chorizo, sautéed pea greens topped with saffron corn foam ...$29 St. Francis – Phoenix Roasted Salmon “Superfood”, quinoa, avocado, soy beans, radish, sweet chile vinaigrette ........................................$22

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

Drago Centro – Los Angeles Skuna Bay Salmon Agnolotti, fava bean puree & Olive Oil foam ......................$28 The Ranch Restaurant and Saloon – Anaheim Skuna Bay Salmon, black quinoa, California pistachios, vine-dried grapes, tangerine nage ..................................$25 Quiessence Restaurant – Phoenix Skuna Bay Salmon, cauliflower tritato, shallot jus, Queen Creek olive vinaigrette, and broccolini relish ..........................$37 Anaheim White House – Anaheim Skuna Bay Salmon Chocolat, a White House Signature Dish, steamed salmon filet served atop a delicious Belgium white chocolate mashed potato puree ..........$30 Bluefire Grill at La Costa – Carlsbad Skuna Bay Salmon, crispy skin, squash,

life’s a choke cauliflower sauce .......$34 Hyatt Regency Irvine Skuna Bay grilled salmon, herb quinoa, pearl vegetable, raspberry coulis .........$27 Joe’s Restaurant – Venice Skuna Bay Salmon, lemongrass broth, confit sunchoke, maitake mushrooms, artichoke, crisp quinoa ......................$19 Flavor – Del Mar Skuna Bay Spicy Salmon Hand Roll, soy paper, fried onion, osetra caviar..........$10 Flavor – Del Mar Skuna Bay Salmon, spinach, cippolini onion, mushrooms, parsley & garlic purée ...............................................$28 Five Crowns – Corona Del Mar Skuna Bay Salmon, wild mushroom bread pudding, broccoli de ciccio ................$29

SUR LE MENU

COVER RECIPE

Pan Seared Skuna Bay Salmon Served with fresh English peas, wild mushrooms, corn, Spanish chorizo & sautéed pea greens topped with saf fron corn foam

SALMON AND VEGETABLES

SAFFRON CORN FOAM

Salmon - pat dry with paper towel

1T

Salt and fresh cracked pepper

Shallots Salt and pepper - to taste

Mushroom (hon shumeji)

2C

Corn

Corn

1T

Butter

Potatoes - small dice

1C

Corn stock

Pea greens

2C

Half & half

Fresh peas

1t

Turmeric

Spanish chorizo - sliced

1 pinch

Saffron

Salt and pepper the salmon and sear in

Sauté sliced shallots with butter, salt &

smoking hot pan. Add mushroom, corn and

pepper to taste. Add corn cut fresh off the

potatoes. Add pea greens and fresh peas.

cobb and cook for about 5 minutes. Deglaze

Turn salmon over and cook till preferred

with corn stock and half and half. Add

internal temperature.

turmeric and saffron let simmer till liquid is

Place foam (recipe follows) on plate, then top with sautéed vegetables and fish. Finish with Spanish chorizo.

level with corn. Liquefy in blender and strain through fine china cap.

Pour into whipping canister and keep warm in baine marie.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

13

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

PICKLE ME Pink, Purple or Green

Pickled vegetables at TWENTY6

“Pickling began 4,000 years ago using cucumbers native to India and it was used as a way to preserve food for out-of-season use and for long journeys, especially by sea when you never knew how long you could be out. Now, we eat pickled items because we love the taste.” — Chef Marissa Gerlach of Raya at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel

by Linda Mensinga

14

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

auerkraut, kimchi, relish, chutney and chow-chow represent just some of the traditional kinds of pickled goods. “Most cultures started to pickle in order to preserve. You can find pickled veggies in all cuisines,” says Michael Stebner. Like many others, the True Food Kitchen brand chef makes pickled onions, zucchini and peppers as well as most of the condiments served in the restaurants.

Salty, sour, sweet and tangy in any combination adds tang and zest to sandwiches, soups, salads and entrees. This humble staple has made its way onto a wide range of restaurant menus including fine dining. Chefs have added pickling to their repertoire of techniques and are giving unique spins to their house made versions. Chef/caterer Phil Knoke of Culinary Entertainment notes, “Recently it’s been brought back and expanded on with all the chefs doing more of a creative fusion and finding ways to make pickled food fit in to just about anything,” “Almost every dish in RAYA has something pickled because it creates a balance in flavors of the food. I am a firm believer in sweet/salty/bitterness/sour and umami. The pickled items add just enough acid. I also love it because it intensifies the flavor of the ingredient and texture,” Gerlach shares. “In RAYA, we use many different pickled onions such as red, white and wild leeks (like ramps to green garlic). We also pickle chiles. But wait, it gets better than that. After we pickle the chiles, we tempura them,” Gerlach shares. Some of the items Gerlach serves with pickled veggies include Smoked Pacific Swordfish Dip – pickled jalapeños, Vintage Natural NY Sirloin – grilled pickled onions, and Black Bass – tempura pickled chiles.

S

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E The Matador’s Chef David Dennis pickles onions, carrots and chiles. “I put pickled onions on our steak and on our steak salad; the chiles and carrots usually as a garnish. It just gives the food a contrast of flavor.” Dennis makes all the salsas in house along with chutney, mustard and different ketchups. “It takes food to the next level, and it’s always better homemade.”

Deborah Schneider, executive chef at SOL Cocina in Newport Beach, is only pickling jalapeños right now. “The pickled jalapeño is a palate cleanser — bites between bites.” Her jalapenos are made unique by the addition of tequila to the pickling mixture. “I want to pickle many more varitities of vegetables for our new location coming to Scottsdale — vegetables like cauliflower, carrot, chayote, and little sweet peppers. Pickled garlic is pretty awesome too.”

At La Quinta Resort near Palm Springs, Chef Michael Vaughn runs the kitchen at TWENTY6, the hotel’s all day dining facility.

“Currently we are pickling cucumbers and purple cauliflower,” he says. “Pickled vegetables are a refreshing way to begin a meal and also serve as a great way to cleanse the palate for the flavors to come.” The house made pickles are served with burgers and sandwiches and the cauliflower arrives as a complimentary first bite when guests are seated.

An avid pickle-maker, Vaughn also pickles green beans, baby carrots, okra, radishes, cherry peppers, tear-drop tomatoes and crosnes* in season. The jars add a colorful visual to the restaurant’s interior. Vaughn shares, “The pickled vegetables add zest, flavor, color, texture and a bit of excitement to the dishes that they accompany. The house made pickles have a beautiful bright and fresh color to them, as well as a tremendous “crunch” that can be heard while enjoying.”

“Made from scratch” is embedded in Chef Vaughn’s culinary DNA. Most of his condiments come from the kitchen instead of jars.

Examples include blueberry sauce for hotcakes, ranchero sauce with huevos rancheros, and Californian Gilberto Benedict Secret Sauce on burgers, beef and crab sliders, and corned beef sandwich. A Hot Wing Sauce in development will join the ketchup, BBQ and steak sauce.

“We also make all of our dressings, Continued on page 16

Pickled Salmon with Purple Onion & Salmon Cream Chef Micah Wexler of Mezze in West Hollywood shared his recipe for pickled salmon (pictured here) made with Skuna Bay Salmon. “Pickled salmon is an old school Jewish technique. It is sort of a lost art that a lot of people don’t know about and have never tried. That dish is my homage to the classic,” he says. Recipe follows or you can print a copy at www.great-taste.net.

PICKLED SALMON

PURPLE ONION

1 filet

Salmon - skin off

1

White onion

1/2 cup

Brown sugar

2

Red Beets - roasted

1/2 C

Kosher salt

1C

Salmon pickling liquid

Clean salmon of any grey meat or blood

Slice onions as thin as possible. Grate the

line. Mix together brown sugar and 1/2 cup

beets and mix with the onions. Bring the

salt. Place a layer of the salt/sugar mix on

pickling liquid to a boil and pour over the

a sheet of plastic wrap. Place the salmon

onion/beet mixture. Allow to steep in the

on top and then cover with the remaining

liquid until cool and the onions have been

salt/sugar mix and wrap up in the plastic.

stained purple.

Place in the refrigerator for 1 1/2 hours.

SALMON CREAM SALMON PICKLING LIQUID

1/4 C

Crème Fraiche

2C

Water

1/4 C

Cream cheese

2C

White wine vinegar

Allow the cream cheese to soften to room

1/2 C

Sugar - white

temperature. Blend cream cheese and

1/2 C

Kosher salt

crème fraiche together.

2

Onions - sliced

In a pot, bring the water, vinegar, white

Plate pickled salmon with marinated

sugar, 1/2 cup salt, and onions to a boil.

fingerling potatoes, beets, onions, salmon

Then cool. Remove salmon from the cure

cream, rye puree (optional), smoked

and wash off all salt/sugar. Place the salmon

salmon roe and dill as shown. Serve with

in the cooled pickling liquid overnight.

rye bread.

*Crosne, pronounced "crone", is a root vegetable with a nutty sweetness reminiscent of jicama or Jerusalem artichoke.

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

15

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E Continued from page 15 vinaigrettes, salsas and infuse our own special blend of maple syrup with Tahitian vanilla bean and Jack Daniels whiskey.”

Vaughn prefers pickling his own in order to have total control of the outcome, and it gives him room to experiment. “Sourcing quality, fresh, environmentally responsible ingredients; choice of method of preparation; seasoning to maximize flavors; and vessel for presentation,” allow him to create a superior product. In addition, he learns more about the ingredients and finds it helps to sharpen his techniques. “The creative process is challenging and rewarding—what works well together and what doesn’t? Should I add a little more or less of this or that?”

Paprika is Chef Vaughn’s favorite spice, “I’m fond of the interesting, deep rich flavor that it imparts to dishes. And I like that the color is bright red when used in its raw form and a deep red when roasted.”

Caterer Phil Knoke, “OC’s Rock N Roll Chef,” creates and executes events all over the county with his company Culinary Entertainment. For the most part he’s a do-it-yourselfer; pickling peppers, red onions, cucumbers, carrots and baby portabellas. He also makes his own salsas, chutneys, BBQ sauces, dressings, specialty mustards and steak sauces.

“I can make them exactly the way I taste the flavors together in my head,” he explains, but “Sometimes someone has come out with a product that is so good it’s not worth it to try and come up with your own version. The dish will just taste better with the store bought.”

Lazy Dog Café Chef Gabriel Caliendo advocates giving the traditional preserving process a try. “It’s easy and rewarding. And the vegetables last forever.”

16

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

The Savory Spice Shop sells and ships spices and seasonings through their Corona del Mar locations and website, www.savoryspiceshop.com. Their Pickling Spice is a blend of cracked Saigon cinnamon, Lampong peppercorns, brown and yellow mustard seeds, cracked ginger, coriander, dill, blade mace, allspice berries, juniper berries, cloves, Pico de Pajaro chilies and cracked bay leaves.

The site also includes easy recipes. To make a salt brine, mix 8 cups of water with a 1/3 cup salt and a 1/2 cup vinegar, enough brine for 2 quarts. The recipe for any vegetable is 2 teaspoons pickling blend per quart of brine. When pickling, be sure that the vegetables are completely submerged in the brine.

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

* Y

SPO

N

SANT MONI A SEAF CA OOD

F E

*

PRO

IL

CH

EF

SO

B RED

Photo by Michael Rutt

Chef Manuel “Manny” Gonzalez

by Chef Katie Averill

“The most expensive seat in the house is the empty one.”

T

his seemingly simple statement made by Chef Manuel “Manny” Gonzalez during the lovely afternoon I spent at TAPS Fish House and Brewery speaks volumes about his perspective.

He believes that all the seats will fill themselves if the food and service are great. This is no small feat in a restaurant that can do 1200 (!) covers in a day. Great food is the result of his stellar experience including CCA training and hard work under celebrity chefs merged with rare common sense, urgency and a selfless attitude. Great service means that customers should not have to ask for a thing once they have placed their order. As Manny moved up the ladder of success, he specifically points out the importance of the time in his career when he was finally able to cook as well as interact with guests; when front of the house and back of the house came together for him.

Manny points out with obvious passion how TAPS is run during my tour of the entire restaurant and kitchen. Owned by the Manzella family, TAPS is one of three family owned locations including The Catch (Anaheim) and TAPS (Corona). What could easily be a chaotic situation is anything but. Oyster shucking trophies sit atop the shiny oyster bar with cooks shucking oysters at a speed I’ve never seen.

Homemade beers are created in-house behind a massive wood bar with the time and attention most Continued on page 18

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

M A K E C O N TA C T

TAPS Fish House & Brewery 101 E. Imperial Highway Brea, CA 92821 714.257.0101 www.tapsfishhouse.com Sunday – 9:30 am to 10:00 pm Saturday – 11:30 am to 11:00 pm Mon-Fri – 11:00 am to 11:00 pm

Chef Manny Gonzales FIRST COOKING OR FOOD RELATED MEMORY? Separating the rocks from dry hominy to make pozole.

Continued from page 17 often given fine wine. Today’s specialty boasts notes of coffee and chocolate. We breeze by a cigar station (why not?) where the décor is very warm Old Boys Club. Moving into the kitchen, we’re aware of the absence of seafood odor. At the volume that they sell, product moves in and immediately out of the restaurant each day contributing to everything being as fresh as it can be. Even the corn is shucked daily and roasted to

Apple Pork Chop with chipotle maple polenta and bacon sautéed greens with blistered grapes APPLE PORK CHOP MARINADE

BACON SAUTEED GREENS WITH BLISTERED

5

Pork chops

GRAPES

4 1/4

Cloves garlic

5 lb

1C&1T

Apple cider vinegar

1/2 C & 1 t

WHAT FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY? Throwing a party every day.

2C&1T 1t 4 1/4

FAVORITE KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL? Fish spatula.

Greens - collard, Swiss chard, pea greens

Soy sauce

1/4 C

Canola oil

Honey

1T

Sliced garlic

Ground ginger

1T

Sweet white onions - julienned

Pinches ground black pepper

1 lb

Red seedless grapes

1C

Diced bacon

Place pork chops into a large resealable bag. In

IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? Pirate ship captain.

order. Manny’s philosophy is that his cooks can make fast work of a task if they do it every day or turn it into a 10 hour job if they do it once a week.

I’m struck by the large number of cooks bustling around; forty-five cooks to be exact.

Managing the cooks’ schedules and concerns might just be a full time job in itself. He responds, “It’s not a big deal, I either say yes or no…” in his mild mannered friendly way.

There is suddenly no response to this but

Salt and pepper - to taste

a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, honey, ginger, and pepper.

Heat oil in sauté pan. Once hot, add bacon

Puree until the garlic has been finely chopped.

and keep on medium heat till crisp. Turn up

Pour this mixture over the pork chops. Seal,

heat and add garlic, onions and grapes and

and marinate in refrigerator at least 4 hours.

sauté quickly until caramelized, add greens and cook till tender. Season.

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE? KitchenAid Mixer.

CHIPOTLE MAPLE POLENTA (Serves10) 2C

Polenta

4C

Chicken stock Salt and pepper - to taste

FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE? All clad.

1C

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE? Cumin BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE KITCHEN? You get to cook all day.

SIGNTATURE OR FAVORITE DISH TO MAKE? Fried rice.

FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT? Charlie Palmer.

FAVORITE DISH TO EAT? Pho. FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT? Cucumber.

Butter

1/4 C

Sage - picked

4

Pears - diced with skin on

2C

Heavy cream

2 lb

Black berries

1/4 can

Chipotle chile in adobo

1C

Sugar

1/4 C

Maple syrup

TOPPING

1/3 C

Brown sugar

1 stick

Butter

1/4 t

Allspice

1C

Brown sugar

1/4 can

Pumpkin puree

1C

Granulated sugar

Bring chicken stock to a boil and slowly add

1

Egg

dry polenta while stirring. Keep stirring the

1 1/2 C

Peanut butter

polenta till the polenta sprouts. Cook polenta

2C

Flour

for at least 10 minutes, add salt and pepper,

2C

Rolled oats

and spread on sheet pan to chill.

1t

Baking soda

1t

Vanilla extract

Brown butter in large pot till amber in color. Carefully add sage leaves and let cook

WHAT THREE WORDS BEST DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE? Fresh, light, and seasonal.

18

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

Peanut Butter & Jelly Cobbler

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Toss pears, berries

till crisp. Add heavy cream, chipotle, maple

and sugar and place in buttered ramekins.

syrup, brown sugar and allspice. Blend with

Combine all topping ingredients until well

Burr mixer, add pumpkin puree then slowly

mixed, crumble on top of each ramekin. Bake

add chilled polenta and cream together.

for 20 minutes. Serve hot with ice cream.

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E “ok”. In fact, Manny is very much hands on when it comes to cooking. He has creative license to make California cuisine as he sees it. California cuisine is fresh ingredients that combine a little soft with a little crunch. With that, I am served a gorgeous amuse plate (if I can coin a term) of raw shaved Kobe beef, raw swordfish with tiny cross section slices of jalapeño and a balsamic drizzle to die for; perfect soft, perfect crunch.

Maybe Manny is more even keeled than most chefs because he comes from laid back San Diego. After CCA, a time with Michael Chiarello and then Gary Danko, like many native SoCal Chefs he left and then found his way back. He returned to San Diego and worked with certified master Pastry Chef Rudy Weider as well as a restaurant in La Jolla through every station for 5 years. But it was at 910 restaurant, also in La Jolla, where he had the opportunity to learn about the best ingredients (mainly Chino Farms) and how to use them without the usual financial restraints.

The kitchen staff was tiny there so they were a close group, working together to create each 7 course meal, one customer at a time.

In his personal life, Manny finds adventure and joy in dining on his days off.

As an admitted foodie, he plans his vacations around where he will eat. He has traveled around Europe (France, Spain and London) as well as the States, meeting up with the cooks and chefs he has worked with along the way, eating as the locals do. He makes the annual NRA show and will drop in on the hot spots when he can. He is a fan of Chicago at the moment and will steal a trip there once in a while. However, make no mistake, he is a workaholic.

TAPS in Orange County called his name because he saw pallets of fish arrive, “not broken down and not corrupted”. He likes that TAPS is not a tourist destination, it is a neighborhood place which is not seasonally directed with no off season. He enjoys seeing customers several times a week which is evident from the many familiar “hellos” and “goodbyes” I witnessed. After 6 years at TAPS, his routine is predictably steady, although consistently packed, and he has managed to find a comfortable space. His level of ease is apparent and he made me feel comfortable as well, like I could leave my responsibilities at the door and be taken care of for awhile.

THE RESTAURANT KITCHENS IN ORANGE COUNTY ARE TEAMING WITH UNSUNG HEROES but here at Great Taste we're singing about them loud and clear.

Visit the new BOH Stars page on www.great-taste.net to read about

B.O.H.

crew members that have been nominated by others at their place of work.

THE MARCH HEROES ARE: Daniel Esparza - Sol Cocina José Ruiz - Matador Cantina Josh Knoke - Culinary Entertainment To nominate your team members visit www.great-taste.net/submissions/

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

19

THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Stellar Team Members Taking care of guests and business

by Linda Mensinga

W

20

hat makes the ideal employee? Everyone has a mental image of that individual and some are lucky enough to actually have one in the house.

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

This is the first of a regular column focusing on star team members from the front of the house.

Meet Rigo Miranda, a server at Antonello Ristorante in Costa Mesa and Los Brisas in Laguna Beach since 1998, Rigo Miranda is a leading light in his world.

According to Managing Partner Thad Foret, Mr. Miranda is the embodiment of a dream team member and must have been born with the hospitality gene.

According to Foret, Miranda stands out in countless ways running Antonello’s three private dining rooms. Reliable and diligent, he communicates well with guests understanding their needs and wants as well as treaing other staff with the same respect and kindness.

THREE THINGS THE PERSON HAS DONE TO EXCEED EXPECTATIONS 1) When we have a problem, Rigo tries to solve the problem, not point fingers. He gives us ideas to make things run smoother and it helps the entire team provide better customer service.

2) He comes to work early and reviews all menus and floor plans for parties on his own time off the clock; just so he is ready to go when the guests arrive. If we overlooked something he catches it.

3) When I call him on his day off to let him know certain people will be dining at Antonello and they were hoping to have him serve unless he has a family matter to attend to (boys sports), — he comes to work. Even for the customers he would prefer not to deal with. He realizes that it is important to the customer and also to the business.

COMMENTS RECEIVED FROM GUESTS ABOUT THE PERSON Simply put, people are discouraged if he is not working the night they dine with us. It’s to the point where they call ahead to see what days he will be working so he can serve them. We get repeat business from our private parties because of him and if he is away on vacation, a group familiar with him will say ‘It was good, but we missed Rigo.’

COMMENTS RECEIVED FROM COWORKERS ABOUT THE PERSON They enjoy working with him because he makes money for them. He is a great team worker not a person who tells you what to do while he smooches the guest.

REVENUE AND REPEAT GUESTS He upsells wine because he is knowledgeable with wine. He provides such great service that the guest or company boss says ‘let’s do it again at Antonello.’

TELL US ABOUT THE PERSON Rigo is a hard working, honest and loyal employee and a great family man and now an American citizen.

CAREER STAGE Honestly, he does not want the responsibility of management and to replace him on the floor would be tough.

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE PERSON IN 5 YEARS Still providing great service to people at Antonello and Los Brisas with a smile!

THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE

Newport Pride, Natural Beef Humanely raised, free of hormones and antibiotics

ewport Meat Company has been a respected purveyor of high quality meats to chefs for over 35 years. Based in Irvine, and delivering to CA customers in five western states, this company has always focused on partnering with ranchers and farmers to bring naturally raised, great tasting meats to market.

Many of the growers have been using humane and sustainable practices for generations, without feeling the need to call attention to their production methods.

However, the public has become much more interested about where their food comes from and how it is raised. According to a Whole Foods national survey, over 65% of Americans want assurances that their meat is coming from humanely raised animals and produced without antibiotics and added hormones.

N

beef, working with ranchers of the renowned Angus breed in California, Oregon and Washington. Calves are born in open fields and identified at birth for a natural protocol. These animals are never given antibiotics, added hormones, or artificial growth promotants. As the calves mature they are introduced to grains and hay and finished on a corn based diet which helps produce the buttery, richflavored beef found in top kitchens across the country.

While other natural beef programs are based on testing for residual hormone levels in the meat or voluntary withdraw periods, Newport’s program falls under the category of “Never, Ever”. Tim Hussman, the company’s president, describes their program as, “setting the gold standard for natural beef....great tasting meat, that I am proud of taking home to my family”.

Backing up their claims for a completely

All Newport Pride Natural beef is graded to be from USDA Choice and higher quality grades, aged for over 21 days to enhance the tenderness and flavor. It is unique to this program that a direct relationship has been established with regional ranchers to create a dialog and feedback as the beef comes to market.

While demand for natural foods has brought this category to the mainstream, the US Department of Agriculture has a very broad definition for “natural” meat labeling. All “minimally processed” meats containing “no artificial ingredients” qualify for a natural label. It's no wonder there is so much confusion for restaurateurs and consumers alike.

Newport is trying to redefine the natural beef category by adopting the most stringent standards for their “Natural” label. Recently the company launched their own brand of Newport Pride Natural

natural protocol, each step is monitored and audited by IMI Global, an independent third party compliance company.

Newport has received positive feedback by their customers who have been pioneers for the program. Ludo Lefebvre, owner and executive chef of LudoBites, states, “I’ve always been a huge supporter of natural meats all my life and am proud to have had an early opportunity to work with Newport Pride Natural Beef during LudoBites 8.0.

The beef is very clean and flavorful. My guests have been extremely impressed by how well it has performed.”

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

21

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

by Linda Mensinga

Substitutions Encouraged Technology enhances guest experience at STACKED

ustomizing meals: what we want and how we want it is now at our fingertips — literally — with the iPad at STACKED: Food Well Built. With this tool, servers can’t mix up an order since diners choose exactly the toppings, add-ons and sauces they want by simply sliding their finger across a screen.

Technology, in the form of iPads, makes the numerous choices at STACKED both feasible and fun.

“We wanted to create something

C

22

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2012

entirely new in the restaurant industry — a ‘Fast Casual Plus’ dining segment that would really give our guests the unprecedented ability to control their own experience,” said Paul Motenko, cofounder, STACKED Restaurants, LLC, “Our guests have the luxury of designing their order to include exactly what they want; how they want it prepared, and pay for only what is ordered.”

“Our objective was to have a very focused menu, serving what we felt were America's favorite foods: burgers, pizza,

salads and sausages. We wanted to enable our guests to create great meals by choosing from an incredible variety of ingredients — toppings, sauces, cheeses, etc. It became clear that the traditional fast casual or full service styles would not be appropriate because of the tremendous number of choices offered. We wanted guests to be able to create their own food in a very comfortable, uninhibited way.

That's how we came up with the thought of having a touch screen device at every table,” says Motenko.

Motenko’s group actually wanted a touch screen device to implement their goal before the iPad came on the market.

As it happened, planning and developing the concept took a couple of years. “The iPad had not been developed yet, but once it was, it became very clear to us that it was the perfect tool to create the type of experience that we wanted our guests to enjoy. We purchased the iPads the day that the iPad 2 came out.”

Guests are shown how to use the iPads or they can order from a regular menu. An item is chosen. Start with the Kung Fusion — Brioche Bun / Certified Angus Beef/ Cucumber / Wasabi Mayo / Sriracha Mayo/ Pickled Ginger Slaw — then switch out bread, cheese, mayo or any item by sliding it off or on. Each change adjusts the total, allowing the customer to control the price.

Stack Your Own Burger with grilled onion, pickled onion, caramelized onion, onion strings, fried egg, applewood smoked bacon and avocado on whole wheat, gluten free or pretzel bun; who needs the beef? Or Stack Your Own Pizza with kalamata olives, Basil Pesto Sauce, Smoked Gouda or Feta Cheese, pineapple or mushrooms. It’s your pizza, stacked at the touch of a finger.

Servers are able and happy to bring additional items after the order is served.

Besides the burgers, pizzas, salads and sausages; guests can stack sides, cookie sandwiches, shakes and the kids menu.

Currently there are three STACKED locations; Torrance, Cerritos and San Diego. Check averages are just under $12 with an average of 6,000 guests per week.

More STACKED lcoations are planned, but no specific sites have been chosen yet.

Visit stacked.com to find a location and see the entire menu.

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

by Chris Kern

Wine Storage Myths

L

ike mother says: sometimes you

with a consistent temperature and everything

just have to hold it.

will be A-Okay.

CELLAR OR WINE REFRIGERATOR

It can be tremendous fun to cellar

ALWAYS STORE YOUR WINE HORIZONTALLY

best bottles. You just need three things: a mini-

a bottle for a few years and then

How soon will you be drinking the wine? If you

fridge ($100, or less if you find it used); an

see how it’s changed.

plan to age it for two or more years, then store the

appliance timer ($15); and a refrigerator

She’s talking about wine, right?

YOU NEED A CLIMATE-CONTROLLED WINE You don’t need to spend a bundle to cellar your

There are numerous myths perpetrated about

wine horizontally, so that the liquid forms a seal

thermometer ($5). Plug the fridge into the timer

proper wine cellaring and storage, and I’m here

and keeps the cork moist to avoid wine-damaging

and into the outlet. Turn the thermostat to the

to debunk those.

oxygen from entering. If you plan on drinking the

warmest setting, and wait for 12 to 24 hours. If

bottle within two years, the combination of cork

the temperature is between 50 and 60 degrees,

WINE ALWAYS NEEDS TO BE STORED

and capsule (the foil seal) should keep the wine

you’re set. If it’s colder, adjust the timer so that

BETWEEN 50 AND 60 DEGREES

fresh and tasty even if stored upright.

the fridge turns off for more time. Trial-and-error

WHITE WINE CAN’T BE AGED

to maintain that temperature. A new wine

temperature-controlled environments. If you’re

Au contraire! Certain whites can be aged and

refrigerator at a fraction of the cost!

planning on drinking your wine within three

will drink impressively after a few years.

You can take a $20 bottle of wine and turn

years,

more

Although white can’t be aged as long as red

it into $100 bottle just by giving it some time.

important than a specific climate. Don’t allow

(thanks to higher acid levels and lack of

Don’t be afraid to buy multiple bottles of wines,

the wine to fluctuate in hot and cold

preserving tannins), white wines with lower

sock them away, and see how great they taste

environments and keep it below 78 degrees, and

levels of acidity or residual sugar left in them

once they’ve matured.

it should drink well for several years. Find a

(think Chardonnay, Viognier, etc.) can be aged

basement or closet out of direct light and heat

and often improve with some cellaring.

Only old or rare bottles purchased as an investment

need

to

temperature

be

stored

consistency

in

is

cool,

is key, but eventually you’ll find the right timing

Chris Kern is owner of the Chris Kern’s Forgotten Grapes chris@forgottengrapes.com.

MARCH • APRIL 2012 | great taste

23

digital

catalog

advertising

web

studio

location

949-322-7590 www.michaelrutt.com

D AV I TA . C O M