Great Taste Magazine 2012 May/Jun Issue

GOOD BYE FOIE GRAS? 11 MAY • JUNE 2012

NIGHTMARE SERVICE 19

WHERE THERE’S SMOKE 22

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA

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of restaurant patrons would tell friends about a great beef meal vs. chicken or pork.

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4640 Northgate Blvd., Suite 115 Sacramento, CA 95834 916.925.BEEF (2333) Phone 916.925.8155 Fax Foodservice@CalBeef.org www.CalBeef.org

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FROM THE EDITOR

T E R I’S TAK E

CONTENT 19

F E AT U R E S 1 4 THRILL OF THE GRILL

someone pays attention?

S

20

plus BBQ Bootcamp at Alisal Ranch

OPERATIONS Managing four restaurants with one iPhone

highlights.

17

FRONT OF THE HOUSE How bad does service need to get until

Chefs share BBQ tips and techniques

moke gets in our eyes and we like it! This issue’s BBQ theme will make your mouth water. Our contributors and sponsors give practical and fun suggestions for making your next outdoor cooking the best ever, and mixologist Joel Black tells how to smoke your own spirits to pair with your next wood fired meal.

Alisal Ranch, set in the pastoral wonderland of the Santa Inez Valley, is a journey back in time. Horseback riding, hay rides and cookouts were just part of the BBQ Bootcamp experience held annually at the ranch. This luxury cowboy style included wine tasting from local vineyards, spacious guest rooms and fine dining. We learned from veteran grill masters and had hands-on practice in technique and seasoning to recreate flavors enjoyed by California’s own vaqueros.

As always, I love to hear from you. Feel free to share your recipes and techniques with me at Teri@great-taste.net. Cheers!

Content

21

CHEF DAVID COLEMAN Michael’s on Naples serves modern

BEVERAGES The search for the perfect steak wine

Italian food, all made in house from scratch.

INSIDE 5 BOOKS The Art of Beef Cutting, a meat professional’s guide to butchering and merchandising.

THE BIZ 1 1 TRENDS Foie gras — a last hurrah to an underground alternative.

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 4 BAKING RACK 7 SWEET SPOT 7 THE FISH MARKET 9 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 9 HOW GREEN ARE YOU 1 2 SUR LE MENU For the continuation of these articles, recipes and more, visit www.great-taste.net

On The Cover

MORE THAN CHEFS

Anatra Due Volte, Duo of duck — seared breast and confit leg with new potatoes, blood oranges, celery heart, spring garlic puree and reduction sauce by Chef David Coleman of Michael’s on Naples in Long Beach, (recipe on page 13). See more purees in Sur Le Menu on page 12. Photo by Michael Rutt.

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as

}

our Culinary Advisors.

GABRIEL CALIENDO

KATIE AVERILL

JASON STEIN

Corporate Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Executive Chef

Lazy Dog Cafe

Kelly’s

MAY • JUNE 2012 | great taste

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INSIDE

PRODUCE

PICK

OF THE MONTH

THE BAKING

RACK THE POPSICLES ARE COMING

by Chef Katie Averill

MAY I START BY SAYING THE TERM POPSICLE HAS A TRADEMARK. If I were part of the Popsicle Company, I swear I would have a full time job collecting cash from people using that term because that’s what we call them—POPSICLES. So regarding these uh, frozen-treats-on-a-stick, I believe they need a rebirth. This all started when I bought an instant “frozen-treats-on-a-stick maker” for my son for Christmas. Unlike most gifts we have either outgrown or stuck in the closet, we love our pop maker. It freezes in two minutes, and if you are inclined to act like a 14 year old, you can watch them freeze right on the counter. My son’s very first effort was raspberry lemonade, with real raspberries and banana slices dropped into them. I must say they looked professional and pretty cool. We then moved on to smoothie pops, juice pops, yogurt pops, cocktail pops, and “soda pops.” I think I’m onto something with “soda pops”.

Those of you who are pushing 40, like me, remember waiting all day and then all night for those old school plastic forms in our freezers to DO SOMETHING? How times have changed. It has to be the next

Avocado soup with crab

big thing. Personally, I believe other trends like cupcakes and cake pops have had more than their 15 minutes of fame (they were always yucky and mushy inside anyway). If I had a fast-casual concept or a food truck, I’d be making these for retail sale right now. The possibilities are endless and they would

Pinkerton Avocados

surely fly out the door. They are fast, easy, pretty, and the food cost is cheap, especially when compared to other frozen desserts like ice cream. Spring is here and summer is on its way. I recommend giving them a try. Contact Chef Katie Averill at KDCOOKS@aol.com.

KNOWN FOR ITS PEAR-LIKE SHAPE, THE PINKERTON AVOCADO IS A BEST PICK DURING WINTER. Bred by (you guessed it) the Pinkerton family in Ventura County, CA, this avocado was developed to ripen early winter through spring, offering the same rich taste and velvety texture as the Hass, presenting a new take on this creamy, buttery sensation.

The Pinkerton Avocado has a thick, green skin with a scant amount of pebbling that deepens as it ripens. The fruit’s small pit means more meat per size and weight.

Besides guacamole, salad and condiment applications,

avocados

are

great

for

smoothies, shakes, and even desserts.

Avocado-chocolate truffle, anyone?

Pair avocado with a variety of white and red wines depending on the dish.

See Great-Taste.net for Chilled avocado soup with crab recipe by Chef Andrew Copley, of Copley’s on Palm Canyon in Palm Springs.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed

to

sustainable

agriculture,

personable production, and propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com.

4

www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2012

INSIDE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Joel Black Chef Gabriel Caliendo Scotty Daeng Suzanna Hoang Aaron Kennaday Chris Kern Linda Mensinga Sarah Ruiz Chef Jason Stein Barbara Wheatley

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534 21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

BOOKS

ere’s the beef: when it comes to cutting meat, few know what they’re doing. Luckily, Kari Underly does; her talent as a third generation butcher is shared throughout the pages of her guide to protein, The Art of Beef Cutting, a meat professional’s guide to butchering and merchandising.

A leading expert in meat education, Underly guides readers through fundamentals to master cuts.

Each cut is thoroughly explained in step-by-step fashion and accompanied by a descriptive color photo.

International and ethnic cuts are also provided, along with the best cooking methods for each section.

Chapters on tools, selling for profit, and safe handling add to the beef cutting experience.

This is the ideal training manual for anyone wishing to master this craft, from industry professional to culinary student to ardent home-cook. To order this book and other great publications, visit www.great-taste.net.

H

MAY • JUNE 2012 | great taste

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INSIDE

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

GOT SMOKE? I LOVE BBQ JUST AS MUCH AS THE NEXT GUY (my buddy Rodney is a real diehard for authentic BBQ) but sometimes, it’s not realistic to slowly smoke meat for 24 hours just to get some BBQ love. Let’s look at some everyday options for achieving BBQ-like flavors and textures without the smoker.

The most important part of good BBQ is the texture. If I’m eating ribs, pork shoulder or brisket, it has to be tender. I mean really falling off the bone, easily shredded by hand tender. BBQ achieves this goal by slow smoking for many hours, usually overnight, but unless you have a smoker and are comfortable going to sleep as it smolders next to your house, you will never be able to authentically achieve the correct texture. My favorite alternative method is to start with a nice long rub. The rub depends on the meat, but always contains some kosher salt, chile pepper, black pepper, granulated garlic, granulated onions, brown sugar, and fresh thyme. I mix the seasonings, rub the protein, and allow it to sit overnight. The next day, I dump a bottle of beer into the pan and roast the meat uncovered for half an hour to get it started, then cover it in aluminum foil and cook for several hours until extremely tender. Once cooked, eat it immediately or cool it and reserve for later.

The second feature is the smoke flavor. I’m not a huge fan of liquid smoke products because they kind of make me nauseous. I achieve smoke flavor by grilling my protein over medium heat, ideally, over a wood grill or BBQ, but you can get a smoke flavor on a GAS GRILL. I know, I know. I can hear Rodney (my BBQ competition friend) yelling in my ear. The fat will melt off and burn, causing smoke to come up and permeate the meat. How many of you cook over wood regularly anyway? Cover the BBQ/grill to capture the smoke, and you are good to go! This works for the pre-roasted items I mentioned above or items that are cooked to order like Tri-tip, London broil, or sausages. Oh sausages— my favorite.

The final step is the sauce - whatever sauce makes you happy. I like a high vinegar style for my pork and a sweeter molasses style for my beef.

I’m sure I’ve gained a few friends and a few skeptics today, but the fact is when we’re hangin’ out drinking a beer and enjoying life while eating some sausages and ribs, you’re not going to care how I cooked them. Trust me.

Chef Gabriel Caliendo is the VP of Food & Beverage and Principal of Lazy Dog Café.

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INSIDE

SWEET SPOT The Fish Market

by Chef Jason Stein

Traditional French Macarons

EUROPEAN SEA BASS

THE EUROPEAN SEA BASS IS A SILVER SKINNED FISH found in European seas and saltwater lakes. The fish has a firm texture, small flake, white color, and mild flavor; it ranges in

by Suzanna Hoang

size from 1 to 3 pounds whole. It is marketed under many names, such as Mediterranean Sea Bass, Branzino (in Northern Italy), Spigola or

MACARONS ARE DAINTY, CLASSIC FRENCH

Sift almond flour and confectioners’ sugar through a

Ragno (in other parts of Italy), Lubina or Robalo

ALMOND-MERINGUE SANDWICH COOKIES THAT,

sieve and set aside. In a stand-mixer bowl fitted with

(in Spain) and Loup de Mer or Bar Commun (in

TO ME, PLEASE ALL THE SENSES. Not to be

a whisk attachment, whip egg whites on low for a few

France). Overfishing has made this fish nearly

confused with macaroons, they are the quintessential

seconds until foamy, then gradually add granulated

non-existent in the Mediterranean, its native

dessert in a tiny package. These handheld cookies

sugar. Continue to whip until whites become stiff

habitat, so today sea bass cultivation flourishes

are not too sweet, and are delicately crunchy and

peaked, about 5 to 8 minutes.

through farming in the pristine waters off the

chewy all in one bite and when repared with a little

Fold in sifted ingredients in 3 to 4 increments.

patience and practice, they bake off with a smooth,

Add a few drops of food coloring and/or flavoring at

This versatile fish is becoming more popular

clean shell. Experiment with flavors and fillings to

this point, if desired. Be quick but gentle, and be

in the States and appears more on menus from

your heart’s desire. My personal favorite: adding

sure to scrape down flour that sticks to sides of bowl.

fine to casual dining establishments. There are

chopped nuts between the sandwiched buttercream

Batter should not be too thin or too thick.

many ways to prepare this great tasting fish from

layer for another level of texture. Amazing.

coast of Greece.

Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper. In a

the simplest method of searing the fillets on high

Almond flour can be found in most markets. The

piping bag fitted with a 1/2 inch plain tip, fill with

heat leaving the skin on which is edible, thin and

finer the grain, the smoother the cookie surface will

batter. Pipe out 1 inch mounds about 1 1/2 to 2”

quite desirable, to the more complex tasks of

be. You can also pulse blanched almonds to a fine

apart on the sheet. To avoid a peak on the cookie

baking and grilling the fish whole. Leaving the

consistency. Also note: room temperature egg whites

surface, flick the pastry tip to the side when

fish whole creates beautiful presentation along

whip and thicken easier.

finishing, instead of straight up. Let batter rest on

with a moister, softer texture because the bones

sheets for at least an hour to form a dry skin on its

and skin are left in place.

TRADITIONAL FRENCH MACARONS Yields 35-40 sandwiches

surface. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 325°F.

My favorite cooking method is to grill the

Bake macarons for 10 – 12 minutes, rotating

whole fish. I make a pocket cut on the top of the

after 5 minutes. Finished cookies should be smooth

fish and remove the dorsal fin and bone structure

1 1/2 C

Almond flour

and very lightly golden. A characteristic, crackly

from the top, making the fish into a pouch with

1 3/4 C

Confectioners’ sugar

ringlet that circles the flat side of the cookie should

the belly intact. I stuff the fish with morels,

1/2 C

Fresh egg whites - from 4 to 5 large eggs

form, called ‘feet’. Let rest for 15 minutes before

leeks, herbs, fennel or citrus; then truss it with

1/4 C

Granulated sugar

filling and sandwiching.

butcher twine and grill.

Pinch of salt

Macarons can be refrigerated for up to 3 days and unfilled macarons shells can be frozen for 2 weeks.

Jason Stein is Executive Chef at Kelly’s in Long Beach.

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INSIDE

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

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INSIDE

HOW GREEN ARE YOU? Paul Martin Walks the Talk in Green Practices PAUL MARTIN’S® AMERICAN GRILL SPECIALIZES

WHAT DO YOU RECYCLE?

IN FRESH, HAND-CRAFTED CUISINE sourced from

Paper, cardboard, cans, glass, and plastic.

local sustainable producers whenever possible at their Roseville, El Segundo, and Irvine restaurants.

HOW ABOUT ENERGY?

They also focus on reducing their environmental

Our commitment to being environmentally friendly

footprint with advanced water, energy, and recycling

extends from the kitchen to the dining room at Paul

systems. Spokesman Brian Bennet took time to

Martin’s, where we use state-of-the-art computer-

answer our questions:

controlled air conditioning and heating systems.

Natural gas and energy efficient appliances such as our

WHAT ARE YOUR FOOD SOURCING AND

dishwashers, as well as low voltage LED and fluorescent

DISPOSAL PRACTICES?

lighting; all help to reduce energy consumption.

At Paul Martin’s, our mantra is “Eat Organic. Believe in sustainable. Buy Local. Love Fresh.” We believe in

USE OF CHEMICALS?

buying from the market by the season, primarily from

There is very little use of chemicals at Paul Martin’s

local farms in California. All of the dishes at Paul

and what we do use is eco-friendly. For example, we

Martin’s are hand-crafted with organic ingredients

use detergents sourced through Ecolab.

whenever possible, depending on what’s available seasonally. We’re dedicated to sourcing the very best

HOW DO GREEN PRACTICES SAVE MONEY,

fresh produce, such as our Bloomsdale Spinach from

IF THEY DO?

Heirloom Organic Gardens in Hollister, CA; something

“Green” practices pay off in more ways than one.

not often found on restaurant menus that we are

Here at Paul Martin’s, we support “green” principles

grateful to offer year-round. Paul Martin’s only serves

because they are good for the environment,

all-natural meats and sustainable seafood.

encourage waste reduction and conservation

Food waste is minimal; our waste collector system

practices. Consequently, we do find “green”

uses recycled water to reduce bulk food waste from the

practices reduce costs and make good business

entire day into a mass that weighs less than 10 pounds.

sense; for example, our lighting uses immeasurably less energy and our dishwashers are 90 percent

WHAT ABOUT WATER EFFICIENCY?

more efficient.

We are committed to water efficiency in both our kitchen and our restrooms. To help conserve water

WHAT DO YOU PLAN TO DO NEXT, IF ANYTHING?

we use low-flow spray nozzles and toilets. Our

We are always looking for new ways to be more

dishwashers use recycled water for steam and are 90

energy efficient and conserve in our restaurant… It’s

percent more efficient than standard dishwashers.

part of our philosophy!

Cheese Pick of the Month CAPRIOLE PIPER PYRAMIDES THERE ARE MANY GREAT PYRAMIDS OF THE WORLD, but you don’t have to travel far to taste the most delicious one. Piper’s Pyramide is a soft, creamy cheese molded into the traditional pyramid shape, minus the top. Made by Capriole Farmstead, a certified humane goat farm, Piper’s Pyramide can also be identified by the fiery red dusting of paprika found under the wrinkly white rind. This little monument has a musty edge that combines with buttery sweet flavors, making it the perfect combination for sweet, tart berries. For a full meal, try it crumbled into a tangy salad with roasted beets. Pair it with light, sparkling wines when young, and sweeter whites like moscatos when more mature. For more information on Capriole piper pyramides and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

MAY • JUNE 2012 | great taste

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TRENDS

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www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2012

TRENDS

Foie Gras: Last Hurrah to Underground Alternative

by Linda Mensinga

treasure” foie gras, French for fatty liver, will soon be available in all states but California.

underscored by chefs all over the state. La Toque Chef/Owner Ken Frank buys exclusively from

As foie is a high priced luxury item, most

Artisan Sonoma and believes the ducks are treated

restaurants and diners will not be affected by the

well and are not hurt or bothered by the feeding.

ban, but the impact of a law prohibiting the sale of

He visited the farm several times over the last 20

a product — one safely produced and consumed for

years and notes, “The ducks have a very strong

the last 5,000 years — may disturb anyone that has

bond of trust with their feeders. They exhibit no

studied Prohibition or believes in individual choice.

fear or ‘flight’ and they have plenty of room to

Hudson Valley Foie Gras spokesman Marcus

move about, flap their wings and socialize.”

Henley notes that since the measure passed, the

David Coleman, Executive Chef at Michael’s on

feeding practice has been studied extensively.

Naples in Long Beach, believes farmers that raise

Result?

Medical

animals have more compassion and understanding

Association refused to declare foie gras farming

The

American

Veterinary

of animal needs than those not involved. He

detrimental to animal welfare. He also noted,

states, “Most people are willfully ignorant about

“I DON’T TELL PEOPLE WHAT THEY CAN’T EAT,”

“Eleven other states have introduced and rejected

where their meat comes from. If they were to see

says Playground Chef/Owner Jason Quinn, yet the

similar legislation.”

an animal being slaughtered, they may decide not

California legislature passed a bill in 2004 that

Henley describes the tube feeding as being

becomes law on July 1, 2012 that essentially tells

natural and humane. The feeding lasts 21 days,

Visit Great-Taste.net to read views for and

everyone in the state not to eat foie gras. The bill

between age 12 and 15 weeks and mimics the

against the ban, discover some great foie gras

prohibits, “force feeding a bird for the purpose of

migratory adaptation of waterfowl that allows them

recipes like Chef David Coleman’s Foie gras

enlarging the bird’s liver beyond normal size.” It

to store fat in the liver prior to migration. Duck and

tortellini and Chef Brian Redzikowski’s foie gras

also authorizes, “…a citation… in an amount up

other migratory birds gorge themselves in the fall

doughnut (pictured here.) You can also sign a

to $1,000 per incident, per day.”

to prepare for long fly times.

petition that asks state legislature to reconsider

This “one-of-a-kind, irreplaceable culinary

Henley’s views on the ducks care are

to eat meat.”

this ban and look into the scientific facts.

Fresh Origins 1/3 Pg

MAY • JUNE 2012 | great taste

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SUR LE MENU

Pureés pureé can be made and served countless ways to compliment all taste buds. It can be the main component of an appetizer like roasted eggplant in baba ghanoush; served on the side like a smooth and buttery mashed potato, fresh basil and garlic-infused into a pesto sauce; or used as a presentational element like red raspberry swooshed elegantly across a white plate. With an unlimited array of ingredients, pureés can be used to add flavor, volume, texture, or overall visual appeal to any recipe or dish. Pureés are generally prepared with a blender or food processor and can be used raw, cooked prior, or cooked after a dish is finished.

Chef David Coleman’s green garlic pureé adds a welcome element of flavor to his carefully roasted and confit whole duck with an orange reduction sauce.

Peruse through our handful of pureés local chefs have added to their menus to compliment an array of protein and vegetables. We won’t blame you for salivating; sur le menu!

A

Crisp Braised Pork Belly, Haven Gastropub, Orange & Pasadena

The Cannery, Newport Beach Almond-Crusted Goat Cheese Crostini, sundried tomato-roasted garlic pureé ..$12

Nobhill Tavern, Las Vegas Grilled Quail, caraway and black pepper rub, lemon pureé, arugula and radish..$20

The Cellar, Fullerton Broiled King Salmon over potato and parsnip pureé, finished with a sun-dried tomato cream sauce ..........................$28

Studio at Montage Resort, Laguna Beach Duck breast, sunchoke pureé, petite spinach, pomegranate gastrique .........$51

Studio at Montage Resort, Laguna Beach Butter-poached Maine lobster, handmade pasta, pumpkin-citrus pureé, roasted pears, truffle sauce .....................................$65 Anaheim White House Couscous Mediterranean, small grain Moroccan in vegetable broth, assortment of seasonal vegetables, lentil pureé ........$19 Haven Gastropub, Orange & Pasadena Crisp Braised Pork Belly, Saison Ale Reduction, celery root pureé, fennel, mache, Dijon mustard microgreens, apple vinaigrette ........................................$20

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www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2012

Raya at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel Lobster Tacos, flour tortilla, black bean purée, chile de arbol salsa, avocado, cilantro ..............................................$9 Tangata at Bowers Museum, Santa Ana Main sea scallops pan-seared, melted leekspotato purée, clam chowder sauce .....$22 Leatherby’s Café Rouge, Costa Mesa Salmon Creek Farms pork, Grilled chop, crispy trotter, spring garlic potato pureé, spring vegetables baby onions, natural pork jus............................................$30

Sir Winston’s Restaurant at the Queen Mary, Long Beach Sea Scallops, maittake dust, baby carrots, cauliflower pureé, soy wasabi buerre blanc ..............................................$35 Lola Gaspar, Santa Ana Short Rib Raviolo, truffle butter, winter squash pureé, parmigiano-reggiano, pine nuts..........................................$11 Animal Restaurant, Los Angeles Veal brains, vadouvan, apricot pureé, carrot ..............................................$14 Watermarc Restaurant, Laguna Beach Veal chop, eggplant pureé, sweet pepper butter ..............................................$38 Raya at The Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel Vegetarian Arepe, squash-sweet corn sauté, huitlacoche purée, whipped requeson cheese, fried epazote.........................$18

SUR LE MENU

COVER RECIPE

BY DAVID COLEMAN

Duo of Duck Seared breast and confit leg with new potatoes, blood oranges, celery heart, spring garlic puree and reduction sauce 1

Whole duck - 5 lbs

hours before using; remove from fat wiping

quarter of a cup. Pour remaining wine and

Separate breasts from duck leaving all skin

away excess fat and any gelatin attached to

scrapings into the reserved pot and cover all

and fat around breast intact. Remove legs

leg. (Gelatin tends to hold the excess salt and

with water. Bring to a simmer and allow stock

from duck at joint, leaving in bones, leave skin

can over salt your dish) In a very hot pan

to stay at this stage 3-4 hours. Remove from

and fat on the leg.

place duck legs skin side down with 1/2

heat and strain through a chinois into another

tablespoon of duck fat. Place into oven

small pot. Add the juice of 2 oranges, 2 sprigs

preheated to 450 degrees for about 7 minutes.

of thyme, and reduce to about 1/2 cup. Add

1

Breast (for 2)

2T

Dark balsamic vinegar Salt and pepper

Marinate breast in balsamic overnight. Season

salt and orange zest to taste.

REDUCTION SAUCE 1

and place breast skin side down in a medium

Duck - legs and breasts removed

GREEN GARLIC PUREE

and reserved

3

hot pan and render down about 10 minutes,

1

Onion - quartered, skin removed

flip and sear another 2 minutes. Remove and

1

Carrot - peeled and quartered

rest for 8-10 minutes.

2

Ribs Celery - cut in half

2

Cloves Garlic

Green garlic - stem and clove attached

1 1/2 C

Milk Salt - to taste Tiny amount cayenne and lime

1

Confit leg (for 2)

1T

Tomato paste

Separate green from the white and discard any

2

Bay leaves

2C

Sweet white wine

brown parts of the garlic. Chop the white parts

4

Cloves

Juice and zest of 2 oranges

into small pieces and allow to simmer in milk

1T

Salt

Remove all skin and fat from the bones and

for about 45 minutes or until soft, being careful

1 Pint

Rendered duck fat

place the bones in a roasting pan in oven at

not to over reduce; cool. Chop the green tops

Coat duck legs in salt, crushed bay leaves,

450 degrees for about 30 minutes until

into a medium dice and place into boiling water

and clove; cover and refrigerate 1 day.

brown. In last 20 minutes of browning add all

for no more than 2 minutes, remove and place

Remove, rinse well, and dry with a clean

other ingredients to roasting pan except wine.

into ice water immediately; drain when cool

towel. Place legs and rendered fat into

When finished place all into a small pot and

removing all excess water. Combine greens, half

cooking vessel small enough to cover legs

reserve. Drain of any excess fat from the

of milk and garlic whites in blender and puree.

completely with fat. Place in oven at 200

roasting pan, add wine and place pan on a

Add remaining milk gradually as needed. (Note:

degrees for 6 hours. Remove from oven and

burner set on high. Place pan on a burner set

you cannot remove milk after you have begun

allow to cool in fat at room temperature.

on high. When wine begins to boil use a

puree, consistency of your puree is dependent

Refrigerate in fat at least one more day, or up

wooden spoon to scrape the fond from the

on this). Pass mixture through a tamis and

to a month. Remove from refrigerator 2-3

braising pan as the wine reduces. Reduce to a

season to taste with salt, cayenne and lime.

MAY • JUNE 2012 | great taste

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

Above: Pacu fish ribs from Second Story; below: Chef Pascal Godé caters to hotel guests and up to 1000 for BBQ events.

Thrill of the Grill

by Teri Williams

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www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2012

very region of the United States has three things in common: baseball, apple pie, and BBQ. Texas has beef, the Carolinas have pork, Kansas City has sauce, Memphis has ribs and California has Tri Tip. What’s better than the tender texture and smoky flavor of anything cooked over wood and fire? Versions of preferred sauce, rub, protein and wood vary greatly and are defended regionally. The technique is lavished on anything from veggies to the most sophisticated protein with brilliant results. As Lucille’s Smokehouse Bar-B-Cue Executive Chef Chris Ferrell points out, “Most traditional BBQ is made with the least expensive ingredients; only time and technique are required to make them delicious.”

One meat not often thought of is bologna. Tim DeCinces, managing partner of Tustin Roadhouse and Beach Pit BBQ comments, “A whole log of bologna in the smoker for 8 hours is just awesome. Smoked Bologna is a Southern delicacy.” His restaurant in Tustin recently added southern dishes and full service at dinner to make it a more desirable evening destination. “The Tustin Garage is such an amazing building. We wanted to do more at night.

It will still be casual and all, but people want to be taken care of at the end of their day and usually like the option of a cocktail. The new menu items are going very well. People are raving,” he says. How could they not, with dishes such as Roadhouse 3-Way Double Cut Pork Chop - brined for a day, smoked for a day then hand cut, grilled and topped with Creole maple glaze; Brisket Tips — the tender point of the brisket smoked, seasoned, sauced and smoked again; or St. Louis Spare Ribs, Chicken and Pulled pork? A don’t miss for BBQ cravings.

BBQ’d and grilled seafood are also popular. Executive Chef Vania Almeida serves the little known but amazing BBQ Pacu ribs on her menu at Second Story at the Belamar Hotel in Manhattan Beach. She discovered the South American fish while watching an Argentinean chef now in San Diego prepare them on the Food Network. Intrigued, she contacted her

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E purveyor and ordered some. Available from March to September, Chef Almeida serves them on her summer menu with a citrus-based BBQ sauce.

Quail, venison, rattlesnake, raccoon, possum, ostrich and squirrel have all been grilled somewhere; although they may not be easily accessible, and may not suit every taste. More typical is beef, pork, sausage, lamb, turkey, duck, and chicken. Every chef loves to cook whole animals when feasible, and the flavor imparted by the grill process is unmistakable. “It adds a char that you can only get by grilling and nothing beats it,” says Chef Joseph Gotti, Brü Grill & Market in Lake Forest.

“The high heat involved really locks in the juices,” adds Wildfish Seafood Grill Executive Chef Keith Stich. At the restaurant in Newport Beach, they use mostly charcoal but occasionally add mesquite for its earthy, almost nutty flavor.

“At Three Seventy Common Kitchen+Drink, we grill by cooking over wood, which imparts a natural smoky flavor and allows meat to sear more evenly. The technique is a bit difficult to master, though,” says Chef/Owner Ryan Adams. At his Laguna Beach restaurant they cook over a mesquite and white oak mix, but sometimes add grape vine trimmings, hickory or applewood.

Chef Ferrell of Lucille’s uses hickory for “just right” smokiness, finding other woods either too mild or too heavy.

Parks Barbecue, a popular Korean style BBQ in Koreatown, grills meat on the table in front of guests. When serving galbi, a marinated short rib, “Charcoal gives a special taste and smell,” explains Jenee Kim, manager. The servers use beef suet to keep the meat from sticking and while meat is the focus, Kim believes “Korean food is considered one of the healthiest because of its many combinations of meat and vegetables.” Their banchan, side dishes served along with rice, includes kimchi, radish, bean sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, pumpkin, cucumber and more.

Cinnamon or pimento wood is favored in Jamaica because it grows there according to Chef Don Schoenburg, who currently cooks for Myetts in Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI. “The flavor is cinnamon. It smells very nice and because they remove the bark the flavor is very subtle and not overpowering.” He recently cooked a whole pig for seven hours, describing the results as crispy on the outside and falling off the bones on the inside.

Moving closer to home, the Santa Inez Valley is known for grapes and wine, particularly pinot noir and syrah. The area is a feast for the senses with wide open spaces, trout-filled rivers and lakes, and lushly wooded rolling hills. The location of Alisal Ranch, where we spent four days in BBQ Boot Camp, could not be more ideal for savoring food cooked outdoors. The estate has thrived as a cattle ranch as it has for generations since its inception as a Mexican land grant. Vaqueros, Mexican cowboys, would chow on beef BBQ’d over a red oak fire. Customary sides were pinquito beans and bread, never sauce.

A tradition known as Santa Maria BBQ is the star of the curriculum at Alisal’s BBQ Boot Camp. Tri-tip, the cut of beef from the bottom sirloin, was typically used for ground beef or sliced into steaks until the late 1950s when it became a local specialty. When sliced, the meat has a unique tender texture and flavor. Santa Maria BBQ is now synonymous with tri-tip rubbed with salt, pepper, spices, and cooked whole on a rotisserie or grill.

We indulged in dazzling days of sunshine for brisk morning horse rides, outdoor grilling lessons, a spice blending seminar and dinners accompanied by local pinot noir and syrah.

Everything was made doubly appetizing by the crisp air, wood-fire-meat aromas, outdoor arenas, and fabulous company. A feast of meat yes, but my “best bite” was the blue cheese stuffed brussels sprouts wrapped in Brad’s bacon grilled over medium heat. Yes, it’s good as it sounds. Bradley Lettau has been the chef of Hitching Post for 30 years.

Executive Chef Pascal Godé and Master Grilling Chef Frank Ostini led entertaining classes filled with helpful hints and hands-on practice. In classes covering basic grills and utensils, many different preferences were explored in illustrating that each BBQ chef is unique. Alisal’s French born Chef Godé used Pam to spray the grill; Ostini, chef/owner of the Hitching Post, made famous by the movie Sideways, rubbed his with a big chunk of beef fat supplied by Godé.

Another difference between the two, who joke and play off each other in a well seasoned routine, is in their approach to seasoning. Godé creates different spice blends and lavishes Continued on page 16

Chef Frank Ostini travels the country doing BBQ demos and serves over 300 covers at his restaurant on weekends.

How do you like your steak?* Rare Very red inside, warm in middle Medium-rare Still red inside, when the juices start to flow Medium Pink edges & red in middle, still juicy Medium-well Just a touch of pink in middle Well done Cooked through, little or no pink inside. We recommend the ‘butterfly’ cut so these steaks are thinner. * From the menu at Hitching Post

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E Continued from page 15 compound butters that he deems “his little slice of heaven.” Ostini uses “magic dust” — salt, pepper and garlic — on meat, and the same plus butter, white wine and lemon on seafood.

At the spice blending seminar, a long table with bowls of cumin, oregano, cayenne, onion power, and more was laid. After discussing the flavor profiles, each guest was given their own bowl to sample and blend according to their taste. We were to choose based on whether the blend was for fish, steak or chicken. Each chef was available to sample the blend and make suggestions. We were given a jar and label to take home along with samples from Ostini and Godé.

Touch to check meat doneness was also explained. Flesh resistance was the factor to weigh for doneness, but thermometers were utilized when questions arose. Less resistance equals less cooked, more resistance is more done. The practice of removing the meat to let it rest was demonstrated as all items continue to cook after they are removed from the heat.

Both chefs use the local red oak wood, but Ostini prefers his without bark and Godé

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with for stronger flavor.

A highlight was the grill-your-own evening where we could use our blends and newly acquired knowledge to grill our own meat.

Newport Meat’s Robert Esser, shared his expertise on meat purchasing and preparation.

Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. introduced us to some proprietary brews at the opening reception, and excellent local wines were generously poured at receptions and dinners. Private label wines from Alisal Ranch, Hartley Ostini Hitching Post, and Melville Vineyards and Winery were presented and sampled. While best known for Pinots and Syrahs, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Riesling grapes all thrive in the region’s climate. Our offsite visits included Foley and Babcock vineyards. Gray Hartley hosted a wine reception with Hitching Post II Wines; Winemaker Chad Melville discussed his wines at our final evening’s reception.

The primal appeal, scent, and taste of food cooked over burning wood according to Chef Adams, “plays with our food memories and is just plan sexy.”

For recipes mentioned please see Great-Taste.net.

Great Taste Protein Pak California Beef Council www.calbeef.org Daniels Western Meats www.danielsmeat.com Farmland www.farmlandfoodservice.com Ingardia Brothers www.ingardiabros.com Manchester Farms www.manchesterfarms.com Maple Leaf Farms www.mapleleaffarms.com Newport Meat Company www,newportmeat.com

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

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Photo by Michael Rutt

Chef David Coleman

by Chef Katie Averill

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s if a chic and happening restaurant were plucked straight from San Francisco or New York City, Michael’s on Naples in Long Beach pops out dramatically from other shops on the street. Its clean modern décor hints at the upscale Italian food and carefully selected wines found inside. Chef David Coleman is making creamy and divine mozzarella when I arrive, and I am lucky to sample it. I’m surprised to hear he makes it daily, because while he cooks dinner at Michael’s on Naples, they have recently opened a pizzeria next door that also boasts house-made cheese. I peek next door and the place is bustling. They have their bases covered with casual dining AND upscale dining options—both benefitting from Chef Coleman’s touch.

Not surprisingly, David spent time cooking in San Francisco and New York. After an early career as a “teamster,” David made a permanent shift to cooking. He was classically trained at the California Culinary Academy and employed in the city learning to make authentic Irish pub food that was “ten times better than any Irish pub food [he’d] ever had”. He enjoyed cooking from a young age and often helped his mother cook for his eight (!) siblings. David’s mother made everything from scratch and in hindsight, he appreciates the education received from her.

When he had gotten the most from San Francisco, David left to intern in New York; that is where the tough kitchens are, and it was time he paid his dues. When working for free in the most expensive city in America grew old, David moved to the best place he knew of in O.C.: the Hobbit. He worked as Sous Chef there before another stint in San Francisco, finally returning to settle at Michael’s on Naples. David loves the O.C. lifestyle and feels he can make more of an impact here with his great food than in places like San Francisco where the culture is already 100% food.

Named #1 Italian in Long Beach by Zagat, Michael’s on Naples is frequented by 50% local regulars and 50% others who travel as far as necessary, drawn in by the eatery’s reputation. You will not find Continued on page 18

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F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E

M A K E C O N TA C T

Michael’s On Naples 5620 E. 2nd Street Long Beach, CA 90803 562.439.7080 www.michaelsonnaples.com Sun-Thurs – 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm Fri-Sat – 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm Michaels Pizzeria Sun – Thurs 12-10 pm Fri – Sat 12-11 pm

Chef David Coleman FIRST COOKING OR FOOD RELATED MEMORY: Probably when I was about 4 years old peeling carrots and potatoes in the kitchen with my mother. My parents had 9 children so we always made everything from scratch and the stove was always on.

IF NOT A CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? A sad pirate clown or maybe a farmer.

FAVORITY KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL: A good sharp knife; it’s only as good as my hand and only as sharp as I keep it.

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: White Balsamic as of late.

Continued from page 17 Bolognese and meatballs on the menu, except maybe occasionally as a special because “it tastes good.” More common is duck, freshly flown in, and braised octopus with fava beans.

While there are a few mainstay items that the locals won’t let him remove from the menu, David mostly cooks with the ever-changing seasonal produce he finds at the Farmer’s Markets and from choice purveyors. Freshness and the shortest chain of distribution and shelf life are top of the mind in Chef Coleman’s kitchen. As often as possible, this chef and his team focus on cooking and utilizing the whole

beast. He recently hosted an extremely successful foie gras dinner where 120 foodies packed the house.

In his off time, David enjoys traveling and brewing his own beer and ciders. This time is rare, however, because while he has a loyal and non-compromising kitchen staff, David is generally at work “all the time.” He is never satisfied with the work at Michael’s on Naples and is always focused and striving to give his customers something new and interesting. He doesn’t appreciate chefs that insist their food is perfect; for Chef David Coleman, part of being a great chef means that there is always room to grow.

Grilled Octopus with roasted potatoes, fava beans, capers, and Meyer lemon confit a lid is preferable. A container in which your

OCTOPUS 3 1/2 - 4 lbs

Whole octopus

lemons fit neatly without being jammed

1

Fennel - quartered

together will require less salt. Place the lemons

1

Onion - skinned and quartered

in the container, then pour more salt to cover,

3

Celery rib

finally carefully pour over the cup of water. The

5

Cloves garlic - crushed

lemons should be completely submerged and

1C

Dry white wine

make sure there are no air pockets around

3T

Blended olive oil

them. Cover and store in a refrigerator or dry

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Soak and clean

dark place for 3 months. Once cured, lemons

octopus thoroughly, towel dry. Remove each

will keep almost indefinitely in the salt. To use

tentacle at base of head. Quarter head, remove

the confit, remove a lemon from the salt and

beak and intestines. Bring a large pan with

rinse. Cut in half and scrape out the pulp and

adequate surface area to smoking point, add oil

pith; discard. Mince or slice the rind, place in

and turn off flame, then carefully place pieces

olive oil over night to season oil.

of octopus into pan one at a time. Turn flame

BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE KITCHEN: That the Chef is always right and that the customer is always wrong. There are a lot of new chefs who arrogantly believe that their food is the divine inspiration of God, and no mere customer has the right to change or question it. Don’t get me wrong, it drives me nuts when someone tries to change my food, but as chefs we must sometimes walk a tight rope and bend when it is necessary, even when it hurts. I believe on the rare occasion we will find that sometimes we didn’t create the perfect dish, and when we become humble we can see our food through fresh eyes; then we can be inspired again.

FAVORITE JUNK FOOD: Black licorice anything.

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back on. Sear each side for 2 minutes, then

FAVA BEANS

add all vegetables and continue on high for

Clean and blanch fava beans 30 seconds in

another 2 minutes. Turn off flame, add wine,

salted water. Remove and place in ice water

cover and place in oven for 45 minutes.

until cool.

Remove octopus from pan, discard remaining vegetables. (Octopus will have released water

ROASTED POTATOES

and the braising liquid can be used for a soup

Use baby Yukons, if possible. Preheat oven to

base if desired). Chill octopus and keep

350 degrees. Slice potatoes about 1/4" thick,

separate from liquid.

coat in olive oil, season with salt, and roast in oven 14 minutes.

MEYER LEMON CONFIT 4 lb

Kosher salt - to cover

TO SERVE

1C

Water or lemon juice

Coat tentacles in olive oil, salt and pepper.

12

Meyer lemons - scrubbed and

Place on hot grill for 3 minutes each side. Slice

halved crosswise

each tentacle in 7 to 10 pieces, toss in Meyer

Pour about 1 inch of salt into a nonreactive

lemon confit, olive oil, chopped parsley and

container just large enough to contain the

capers. Plate with roasted potatoes and warm

lemons and salt, a wide-mouthed glass jar with

fava beans.

THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE

Bad Service is Bad for Business A real-life dismal experience leads to loss of business

us by without a single, “I’ll be right with you” or “I’ll be back with some menus.”

After sitting for approximately ten minutes, I finally decided to go inside and ask the hostess if there was a server that could assist us. I explained we had been sitting outside on the patio for quite some time and that a number of restaurant staff had passed our table without even saying hello or asking whether somebody could be sent to take our drink order. The other lady standing behind the host stand, the manager, informed me that patio seating was not for drinks, only dinners, the patio in the “far back” was the “outdoor cocktail area” and we would have to move if we wanted service; that or go to the bar and place an order ourselves.

This came with no apology, just straight-faced and matter of fact.

Simply put, I was floored. As a restaurant manager in the industry for over

The boys ordered beer, and the girls ordered a bottle of wine. Our server did not know how to open a bottle so we assisted her. The server was able to pour, so we thought, until she spilled red wine on my friend. To add to our displeasure, the server was irritated that she had to return to clean up the mess. We truly regretted ordering the bottle, because now we had to stay until we finished it.

You’ll never guess how we knew that it was time to go home. No “last call” or “have a nice night;” Just a flip of the switch and goodbye heater.

As we left the restaurant that evening, we could only shake our heads in disbelief.

How could such a reputable restaurant have such horrid customer service practices? No one appeared to take their job seriously. Needless to say, we will not be returning to that particular establishment.

I truly believe that people want restaurant staff (including management) to be fun, engaging, helpful, and to at least pretend they love their job.

Patrons look for eye contact, a warm greeting, smile or the physical indication of quick assistance.

by Barbara Wheatley

ecently some friends and I met at a popular restaurant on the coast to grab a couple of drinks and relax on a Friday night around 9 pm after the dinner rush had died down. As we entered, the two young women at the host stand welcomed us and asked if they could help. We thought we knew where we were going and walked out to a patio that had a few patrons enjoying their food and drinks. Though not set, we sat at one of the several tables available. As we waited patiently discussing what we were going to order to drink, servers and bussers passed

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17 years, I could not believe my ears. What happened to customer service, proper training of managers, servers, bussers, and hostesses; not to mention just common, everyday kindness?

I apologized, but as I walked away I wondered what I was apologizing for other than not knowing their seating areas. Could the hostess not have pointed us in the right direction? Could she not have come to the table to ask us to relocate?

I proceeded outside to inform my party of the outcome, and we graciously moved to the other “far back cocktail patio.”

Once there, we encountered an indifferent cocktail server who gave every appearance of not wanting to be at work.

I truly believe that people want restaurant staff (including management) to be fun, engaging, helpful, and to at least pretend that they love their job. Patrons look for eye contact, a warm greeting, smile or the physical indication of quick assistance. As a restaurant manager, I expect my actions to set the tone for the floor. If I am gracious and helpful, most likely my staff will be the same.

Customer service is all about attitude and about proper training. In today’s overheated competitive market, poor service is both unacceptable and unaffordable. The restaurant industry must always remember: customer service is an INTEGRAL part of our job, not just an extension of it.

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T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

Management by Smart Phone Managing four restaurants with one iPhone

Chef/Owner Patrick Albrecht on his iPhone at Dos Amigos, one of the latest additions to his Great Food Group.

atrick Albrecht, owner of four restaurants in Atlanta, GA that employ 200, has outfitted his 15 managers with iPhones, which they use to access the company’s Bento database, iCal calendars, and enterprise software.

They can instantly look up, enter,

P

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and revise information about menus, banquets, employee schedules, point-ofsale transactions, and access daily reports — from anywhere.

Great Food Group Inc’s owner has a lot more than food on his plate and to keep his operation running smoothly and costeffectively, he depends on the iPhone.

“There used to be a lot of headaches,” Albrecht says, “Trying to track information.

Who booked the banquet? Where’s that piece of paper? But with the iPhone, we know exactly where everything is and we can access it anywhere, anytime-instantly.”

“You hear from every restaurateur that they have to run through the restaurant, the kitchen, maybe up a flight of stairs to their back-office, just to enter or find information. We can do it wirelessly from anywhere.”

The iPhone is also a handy little marketing tool. When Albrecht gets excited about a new dish from the kitchen, he photographs it and instantly uploads it to the restaurant’s website and the digital display at the bar. He posts on Facebook and Twitter to keep his customers updated about specials and upcoming events.

“I was never convinced about social media until recently when one of my managers started using Facebook on a daily basis. The day I heard, ‘We came here because we saw you on Facebook,’ our lives changed. We now have all managers linked to our Facebook and they are able to update it with pictures and specials at any moment of the day.”

BENTO: AN EASY-TO-USE PHONE DATABASE USED BY RESTAURANTS OWNERS With the Bento database, Albrecht can replace an entire filing cabinet, making all of his company’s data accessible with just a few taps. And with iCal, his team are always synchronized and up-to-the-minute on banquet bookings. They know exactly when large parties are dining and what they’ll be served.

They no longer have to worry about who has the paperwork.

“Our employees are no longer bogged down in the back office. They can focus on the customer.”

PERSONALIZED SERVICE, RIGHT AT THE TABLE Trained in Europe in hospitality and culinary arts, Albrecht joined forces with his father Paul, an award-winning Atlanta chef, in a family tradition. In their business, customer experience is paramount, and the iPhone has been instrumental in making that experience seamless.

“We use the WineSnob application a lot,” Albrecht says. “When a diner wants to pair their meal with the perfect wine, we do a quick look-up.” At the bar, Drinks, another app, has replaced the need for a giant book of recipes. “It’s a database with over 4,500 mixed drinks,” Albrecht explains. “And it’s searchable. It’s much faster than a printed book and it works great in the low light at the bar.”

Read more about how Chef Albrecht uses the iPhone at Great Food Group, visit www.Great-Taste.net.

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

The Perfect Steak Wine

by Chris Kern Chris Kern is the founder of online wine shop ForgottenGrapes.com and the creator and host of Sunday Night Chef Fights (sundaynightcheffights.com). E-mail him at chris@forgottengrapes.com.

Fleming’s Prime Peppercorn Steak, prime New York strip, crusted in cracked black and white peppercorns with proprietary “F17” sauce on the side.

here are certain truths we’ve held to be self-evident since time’s begun: the sun rises in the East, bread lands butterside down, swallowed gum stays in your stomach for seven years, and the only wine you should drink with a steak is a Cabernet Sauvignon.

Really?

Allow me to play Galileo Galilei to this great steak “truth.” Cabernet every time with a steak? I not-so-humbly disagree (I get a little cocky when I’m talking uncommon wines). There are dozens of other wine varietals out there with the right combination of dry, dark berries, bracing acidity, and firm-but-not-too-forceful tannins that pair with steak better than most Cabernets do. Here are just four lesser-known wines that I think make a great steak companion:

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OLD VINE CARIGNANE Carignane has its origins in Spain and numerous plantings in the Languedoc and Rhone valley regions of France, but the best full-blooded varietal versions available are from Mendocino County, where some Carignane blocks are nearly a century old.

Normally Carignane produces a heavy wine of dry red berries and almost-overpowering tannins, but Carignane from old vines — which must be aged over 40 years to officially be called “old” — shows an extra layer of finesse and complexity by tuning the tannins way down, making the wine softer, less intense, more approachable, and a perfect companion to red meat. One of my favorite old vine Carignanes is the Milano Family Winery 2005 Mendocino Old Vine Carignane. It’s chewy and dry with lots of pomegranate and currants, but soft on the tannins and perfect with medium-rare ribeyes and New York strips.

REFOSCO DEL PEDUNCOLO ROSSO This rare gem from northeastern Italy doesn’t fall far from the Carignane vine. It’s deep, powerful, dark violet and brimming with red currant and wild berry flavors, a touch of bitterness, and Adamantium-like tannins. Yet beyond the bold tastes and tannins is an alluring violet floral nose that intensifies as the wine ages. Most Refoscos are released with four to five years of age

already on them; while drinkable, they’ll just get better with more age. Fantinel makes a wickedly good Refosco, the 2007 “Vignetti Sant’Helena” Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso DOC that immediately brings to mind a thick baseball-cut top sirloin as soon as you pour it.

RESERVA AND GRAN RESERVA TEMPRANILLO When you think Spanish reds, you probably think Tempranillo: that light, fruity, spicy, peppery minx from Iberia. But Tempranillos can be deep and intense too, the deepest and most intense being the Reserva and Gran Reserva wines out of the Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions in northern Spain.

Reserva classification dictates that the wine be aged at least three years, including at least one in oak. Gran Reserva requires up to five years of aging, including at least 18 months in oak and a minimum of three years in bottle. Both Reserva and Gran Reserva wines show their age with chewy dry cherry and berry flavors, demure but upright tannins, and dirty, rustic, gravelroad charm. If you’re looking for a terrific Reserva Tempranillo, look no further than the Conde de Jauregui 2005 Rioja Reserva, with bold smoky fruit, leathery notes, and enough punch in the cojones to make you forget your Cabs for good.

MOURVEDRE ROSÉ What, you thought we were just going to stick with red wines? Sure, we could’ve gone with a Nebbiolo or a Barbera or dipped our toe into a bolder Beaujolais Cru (I’m feeling you, Morgon and Moulin-aVent), but if you’re devouring a grilled steak on a hot summer’s night, you’re going to want a bold rosé, not a red. And there may be no finer domestic rosé than the Tercero 2010 Santa Barbara County Mourvedre Rosé. Produced in the Bandol style, what this wine lacks in bouquet it makes up for in rich, tart, bold strawberry flavors and a big, lush mouth feel that works perfectly with thinner steaks like hanger or onglet.

So there you go: four great alternative reds that will rise above and conquer any slab of beef you throw at them. Cab problem solved. Just call me your Einstein of Wine Time, or the Pythagoras of the Carnivorous (or Chris will be fine, too).

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THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Where There’s Smoke

by Joel Black

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22

he weather is warming, spring has sprung, and summer is on its way. What does that mean for proud Americans across this land? It’s time to BBQ! And, with hot and spicy BBQ there is the

www.great-taste.net | MAY • JUNE 2012

need for a cool refreshing accompaniment.

BBQ, whether it a Kansas City dry rub or my favorite, West Texas “cowboy style” is truly this country’s first cuisine and is celebrated in various ways from region to region. Given my Texas roots, I am going to explore a “cowboy style” BBQ inspired libation.

There are three main components to know when cooking BBQ, regardless of the region. The first component is the style in which you cook your meat; the second, the type of wood; and last is the sauce. Cowboy style BBQ is cooked over direct heat, using mesquite wood and is served with a medium bodied, spicy sauce usually containing meat drippings. Since cooking BBQ is all about cooking low and slow and flavoring the meat with smoke, I decided it was the cooking process I wanted to incorporate. With a lot of thought, a little creativity and a quick trip to the hardware store I came up with a fun way to smoke a spirit. Using a 1/2 inch by 3 foot long plastic tube and a roll of duct tape you can feed the smoke from your grill into most alcohol bottles — imparting the flavor of

your BBQ directly into your liquor of choice. The infusion process takes from 30 minutes to an hour depending on the level of smoke you desire. You have to make sure there is room between the tube and the bottle opening for the smoke to release so your bottle doesn’t explode. After I infuse any spirit, I like to first use it in an alcohol forward cocktail like an old fashioned or a martini to get the true flavor of the infusion and then explore from there.

For my cowboy style BBQ I decided to infuse two spirits. I started by concocting a meat and potatoes Bloody Mary using Luksusowa potato vodka. This made for a perfect afternoon cocktail to sip while my meat was cooking. To wash down my juicy dinner I smoked Basil Hayden’s bourbon and spiked my Cowboy sweet tea. Check out the smoking directions online or watch my “smoking” video on my blog at blacklab-ventures.com/blog and remember to always use caution when dealing with alcohol near flames. Cheers!

Visit Great-Taste.net for procedures and recipes.

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