Great Taste Magazine 2013 March/April Edition

SERVICE TRENDS 10 MARCH • APRIL 2013

INSURANCE 18

COCKTAIL COMPETITIONS 20

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 400 Laguna Beach CA

FROM THE EDITOR

T E R I’S TAK E

CONTENT THE BIZ 1 0 TRENDS

F E AT U R E 1 4 THE FIVE MAIN FLAVORS

Service tips from restaurant consultants.

Transform your food with these

18

elements for the most “wow.”

18

Content

CHEF SEAKYEONG KIM

OPERATIONS Insurance Basics: you may not have the coverage you should. Find out here.

D

19

BEVERAGES Experience a cocktail competition.

Find out who’s hot and acknowledge the philanthropy of this generous industry

5

BOOKS The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Quinoa Cookbook

D E PA RT M E N T S 6 SWEET SPOT 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 7 SPICE RACK 8 BAKING RACK 8 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 1 2 SUR LE MENU

For the continuation of these articles, recipes and more, visit www.great-taste.net

On The Cover Pan roasted scallop—served in a scallop shell atop a dollop of rhubarb yogurt, topped with pineapple chutney, garnished with edamame, pea tendrils and pineapple chip; over a plate of sea salt, aromatic pickling spice and cinnamon stick; crafted by Executive Chef Seakyeong Kim of Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa. Chef Kim shows us how to elegantly incorporate fruit into a dish. See which local restaurants offer similar dishes in Sur Le Menu on page 12 and read Chef Seakyeong’s full recipe on page 13. Photo by Michael Rutt.

MORE THAN CHEFS

ining in Orange County is constantly evolving and being driven by consumer tastes and demands but most notably by chef creativity and the search for the next new signature dish.

In our entrée feature, you’ll read how some of our local favorites combine the flavor elements, including fruit, into delightful dishes and learn some tips on how to take them to the next level. The addition of an acidic or umami component can lift or balance taste in a way diners will enjoy but not necessarily identify.

Our featured chef’s recipes show his mastery of flavor integration. Executive Chef Seakyeong Kim guides the kitchen crew at the Charlie Palmer in South Coast Plaza. Frequent menu changes bring in foodies and regulars to see what he’s come up with.

In our operations department, a hospitality insurance expert discusses the kinds of insurance restaurant operators need to have and why they’re essential.

Are you covered?

Thinking about opening a new location?

Whether now or sometime in the future, you’ll want to see how others have accomplished this, what to look for and what to avoid.

Enjoy our regular contributors (both chefs and foodies)—they never fail to teach us something new.

Cheers!

INSIDE 4 THE BEET

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s

}

GABRIEL CALIENDO

KATIE AVERILL

Corporate Executive Chef

Chef/Proprietor

Lazy Dog Cafe

Eat Street

chair, these talented chefs share their

expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

3

THE

BEET

THE

BEET

INSIDE

illa Nova in Newport Beach just sold for $6 million. After 20 years, Andy Crean sold the property in an auction to Mike Moshayedi, owner of the NPB Joe’s Crab Shack.

The Winery has leased the space from Moshayedi and has plans for a complete remodel of the two-story building to make the most of the Newport Harbor view.

Winery Executive Chef Yvon Goetz plans to move to the Newport Beach location and open in the fall with Thad Foret and JC Clow rounding out the management team.

Open just since December, Surfas Culinary District in Costa Mesa’s SOCO, is already a mecca for chefs, foodies and anyone else looking for specialized products or just something tasty to eat.

Surfas features more than 18,000 unique items in over 20,000 square feet and is also home to Café Surfas, a large test kitchen where local chefs will conduct live demonstrations and cooking lessons, an epicurean center, a caterer’s bar, and a plethora of chef quality cooking supplies and gourmet food products. Chefs such as author and radio host Susan Irby (pictured above left), the Bikini Chef; Chris Rocke, owner of Rancho A Go Go Food Truck and Rancho To Go BBQ restaurant in Orange, CA; and Geeta Bansal from The Clay Oven add zest to an already fun shopping experience. For more information, call 714-453-2005 or visit www.surfasonline.com.

Habit Restaurants, LLC, an Irvine-based restaurant company, has announced the appointment of Chef Adam Baird (pictured above right) as Vice President of Food, Beverage and Procurement for the rapidly expanding chain. Baird, a graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, has a rich and all-encompassing background in the food service industry.

Most recently the Australian native worked as corporate executive chef — VP of Food, Beverage and Culinary Operations for Mimi’s Cafe Restaurants.

V

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

INSIDE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Joel Black Chef Gabriel Caliendo Tiffany Haslacker Suzanna Hoang Linda Mensinga Solomon Williams

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

BOOKS

usan Irby, author, chef and radio personality, put together 250 recipes for The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Quinoa Cookbook. The U.N. designated 2013 as the International Year of Quinoa, a long-term initiative designed to alleviate nutrition deficit and food insecurity worldwide. Irby explains how quinoa looks similar to and can take the place of a grain, but is actually a seed loaded with nutritional benefits. Among them are magnesium, phosphorus, iron, calcium and fiber. Quinoa is the only grain that contains all eight amino acids making it a great ingredient for vegans and vegetarians. Quinoa was prized by the Inca who preferred it to potatoes and corn. Irby has chapters for every meal and dining category, not just salads or sides. Easy to follow recipes include meatball quinoa sandwich, cucumber mousse with quinoa caviar and a triple-chocolate torte with hazelnut quinoa. To purchase this and other great titles, visit Great-Taste.net

S

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

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INSIDE

SWEET SPOT

PRODUCE

Salted Sablé Citrus Tart with Honey Basil Sauce

PICK

OF THE MONTH

by Suzanna Hoang IT’S A CHALLENGING YET SATISFYING FEAT for

Photo by Anna Nguyen

216 g (7 1/2 oz) Butter - unsalted, softened to

cooks to create desserts that encompass all five

room temperature

taste senses (sweet, salty, bitter, savory, sour). This

87 g (3 oz)

Powdered sugar

dessert can be transformed to your heart’s content,

1

Vanilla bean - scraped for seeds,

(try different juices, fruit, and herbs) and will be a

or 1/2 t of vanilla puree

RHUBARB RHUBARB IS A LONE STAR AMONG

hit with anyone who tries it. The saltiness of Maldon-

12 g (1/2 oz)

flecked buttery cookies with the light, sweet

244 g (8 1/2 oz) Bread flour

SAUCES. Only the tantalizing tart flavor of

earthiness of honey basil puree drizzled atop an

1t

rhubarb garners placement in this category.

assortment of segmented citrus fruit results in a

Cream butter with sugar until smooth, then add

While we use the stalks of rhubarb for their

palate-pleasing sensation. Special thanks to friend

vanilla and yolk until incorporated. Add dry

tangy goodness in pies, cobblers and tarts,

and colleague, Amanda Kearns, for this wonderful

ingredients. Dough will come together (kneed by

the

dessert idea.

hand slightly if necessary). Form into a disk to roll

oxalate–poisonous when consumed in large

Egg yolk Sea salt - such as Maldon

VEGETABLES USED AS FRUIT IN PIES AND

leaves

of

the

plant

contain

LEMON CURD

out and cut with cookie cutters, or into a log to slice.

quantities, either raw or cooked. Sometimes

Yields I pint

Refrigerate for at least two hours. Cut or slice

planted for ornamental purposes, rhubarb can

113 g (4 oz)

Sugar

cookies at a 1/4 to 1/3-inch thickness and bake at

be spotted easily amongst other plants in a

140 g (5 oz)

Lemon Juice

375 degrees for 12 to 13 minutes, rotating the sheet

garden. The leafstalks, or petioles, range from greenish pink to dark red in color while the

28 g (1 oz)

Lime juice

pan halfway through for an even, light brown color

225 g (8 oz)

Butter

around the edges.

7

Eggs

4 sheets

Gelatin - bloomed

leaves are lush and green. When preparing, be sure to peel the strings and trim any

HONEY BASIL PUREE

blemished areas. Dip the stalks in sugar and

Boil sugar, juices, and butter in a saucepot. In a separate

1C

Basil leaves - blanched

try it raw, or incorporate into savory sauces for

pot, whisk eggs and sugar, then slowly add juice mix to

1/2 C

Honey syrup (equal parts honey

meats and fish. Compliment with fruit such as

temper. Strain mixture back into saucepot. Add gelatin

and water)

strawberries or raspberries and you’ll have the

sheets, whisking constantly over low-medium heat,

Blend together until smooth.

makings of pie fillings and a host of other desserts. Who would have thought tangy could

being careful not to boil or burn, until mixture is

be so sweet?

thickened. Spray a 9 x 6-inch pan with cooking spray

TO PLATE

and pour in curd. Chill for 4 hours or overnight.

Choose citrus segments of Cara Cara, blood and

The produce hunter has developed close

Valencia Oranges; honey tangerines and pink

relationships with family farmers who are

VANILLA SEA SALT SABLÉ COOKIES

grapefruit as desired. Add lime or lemon segments

committed

This French butter cookie is a slightly richer, flakier

for an extra tart punch.

personable production, propagation and

version of a shortbread cookie. You can use any tender butter cookie recipe for your ‘crust.’

6

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

Cut chilled lemon curd and place on sablé cookie, layer citrus fruit, and drizzle with honey basil puree.

to

sustainable

agriculture,

promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com

INSIDE

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

UMAMI EEWWW-MAAA-MMMIIIIII. How much fun is that

studied dashi broth. Dashi is based on dried kombu

herbs, porcini powder can boost a steamed

to say? In addition to sweet, salty, sour and bitter,

seaweed and dried bonito flakes, both of which are

vegetable to new heights. Simply steam your

umami assumes its rightful place as the fifth sense

high in umami. Furikaki is a blend of dried

favorite vegetable and sprinkle with a porcini

of taste. Let’s take a look at some of my favorite

seaweed with sesame seeds, sea salt and garlic.

powder seasoning blend. Dried shitake mushrooms

ways to get umami into a spice blend.

Sprinkle this Japanese seasoning blend onto a bowl

are a great substitute if you can’t find porcini.

A brief, very brief, tutorial: umami is believed to be first created and commonly used by Auguste

of sushi rice with some seared yellowtail and you have a complex depth of savory flavor.

Dried tomatoes, such as sundried tomatoes, are packed with glutamates and lend tons of this flavor

Escoffier in Paris but later officially and

Dried demi-glace powder is great to add to spice

to foods. Place some dried tomatoes in a blender

scientifically documented by a Japanese professor,

blends because it adds the umami flavor of

and process until you have a powder. Dredge a

Kikunae Ikeda. Umami translates from Japanese to

reduced veal stock. The concentrated reduction of

piece of your favorite fish in the tomato powder and

“pleasant savory taste” and is comprised of an

veal stock lends the savory notes that are not salty,

pan sear in some olive oil or oven roast until

amino acid named glutamate. The umami flavor

sweet, bitter or sour. Mixing a dried demi-glace

cooked.

can be found in dairy, seafood, meat and

with herbs and spices to use for braising lends a

vegetables. When items are dried and cooked

craveable flavor boost.

down, the umami flavor is concentrated.

Professor Ikeda found the fifth flavor after he

It’s fun to say, easy to create and delicious.

Umami is not just a buzzword, but a formidable

Dried porcini powder is another way to add umami flavor to a dish. Combined with spices and

tool in your culinary arsenal. Break it out, and make something tasty for your friends and family.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

7

INSIDE

Cheese Pick of the Month

THE BAKING

RACK

by Chef Katie Averill

MARSHMALLOWS FROM SCRATCH IN KEEPING WITH THE THEME of this month’s issue of Great Taste (the 5 flavor profiles), it is not too much of a stretch for me to discuss SWEET. When I introduced homemade S’mores tarts to my restaurant many years ago, I was unable to take them off the menu. Making marshmallows turned into a great demo item at shows after that, and time and time again, people

RUMIANO ORGANIC MILD CHEDDAR

would come back asking for “that recipe.” I guess you could say S’mores have become a sort of

The tradition of quality cheddar cheese has traveled far and wide from the English village of Cheddar

signature item for me. The recipe below can be

to the Rumiano farms of Northern California. The Rumiano family is dedicated to producing

pressed very thin, and placed on top of tarts and

distinguished cheese made with family integrity and prepared from superior cow’s milk. In fact, the

torched; or it can be pressed to standard

Rumianos pride themselves on the fact that their cows graze, on average, 360 days a year. The

marshmallow thickness for actual marshmallow

Rumiano Cheese Company is the oldest family owned cheese company in California and the first

squares. Add a couple of drops of color and a 1/2

company in the world to be non-GMO (genetically modified organisms) verified. Made from pasteurized

teaspoon of a complimentary extract flavor to

cultured milk, sea salt and enzymes, you’ll know that you’re eating true organic cheese when you try

make custom mallows.

Rumiano Organic Mild Cheddar. The semi-soft cheddar is typically aged for about 6 months and has a hard pale-yellow to orange, smooth texture. Pair it with sausage or salami or grate it over a bowl of

MARSHMALLOW

macaroni noodles for an organic twist on an oldie but goodie.

17 oz

Powdered sugar

1 1/2 oz

Egg whites

5 oz

Corn syrup

1 3/4 oz

Honey

6 sheets

Gelatin - soften in COLD water

1/2 t

Vanilla

For more information on Rumiano and their cheeses, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

Slow mix powdered sugar and whites in a mixer with a whip attachment. Heat corn syrup and honey in a saucepan and add softened sheet gelatin. Dissolve gelatin over heat. Stream corn syrup mixture into powdered sugar mixture.

Add vanilla. Beat on high for 15 minutes. Line 1/2 sheet pan with pan spray and plastic, grease hands with pan spray, pat out marshmallow, finally cover again with plastic.

Marshmallow will set up at room temperature over a couple of hours.

Chef Katie Averill Katie@EatStreetCulinary.com www.eatstreetculinary.com

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

INSIDE

(562) 948-4408 Meat Processing And Packing Delivery Across Southern California USDA Inspected Facility Serving Restaurants From Quick Service to Fine Dining

Purveyor Of Quality Meats To Quality Establishments Daniels Western Meat Packers is a family-owned company that provides fresh products to a variety of establishments from From Quick Service to Fine Dining. That’s why our motto is, “Small enough to know you, large enough to serve you.”

5220 Van Norman Road Pico Rivera CA 90660 www.danielsmeat.com

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

9

TRENDS

by Linda Mensinga

Service Tips From The Pros

“ATMOSPHERE IS CRITICAL. EATING OUT IS AN ENTIRE EXPERIENCE, IT’S

Training must be ongoing and although most independents do not use

NOT JUST ABOUT THE FOOD. A great meal served by disinterested staff will

training manuals, chains do. Consultants consider them a useful, even

not bring repeat business,” believes CEO Robert Ancill of The Next Idea Group.

essential tool. “There are many free templates online,” Chiaro notes for

Great food is essential but getting service right is equally important. Everyone’s

restaurateurs who do not already have one and are intimidated at the idea of

got a nightmare story and you don’t want to find one about your restaurant on

creating one.

Yelp. The following experts share tips for the best practices.

Jerome Chiaro managed and owned multiple restaurants before becoming a consultant. “I tend to focus on the small independent restaurant owner.

the infrastructure omnipresent,” he says. “Hire for personality, then train using

“That's what I know, that's what I grew up in. I started working at age 14 in

a strict flow of service.”

my father's restaurant and fell in love with the business. That is who I like to

Anderson agrees and has found that clients must participate in the

help, and that's who needs the most help,” he explains. He created Restaurant

implementation of any new systems so they are able to sustain them after he’s

Management Blueprint with online tutorials, templates and advice.

no longer there. He commonly sees servers trained by following an experienced

Scott Kamalski’s company, Maverick Restaurant Consulting, does

server which is only beneficial as one part of their preparation. “The trainers

operational analysis, product development, training and turn-around for

are often too busy making tips for themselves to do a really good job. The best

restaurants of every size. “Wherever there is food and beverage—restaurants,

training combines testing and skill observation, before being put in the

hotels, airports, stadiums, nightclubs, cruise lines— I’ve consulted all over the

position independently,” he observes. “I love testing them in writing and

world.”

having them watch the cooks work and describe the dishes.”

The team at The Next Idea Group focuses on concept development,

Training should also include learning and tasting all the menu dishes Ancill

repositioning and management execution. “We have a strong international

believes. “Then the server has a high level of knowledge about the menu, the

presence with projects in 12 countries,” Ancill says.

steps of service, and the restaurant generally.” Implementation should be

Brad Anderson offers start-up services, concept development, menus, operational systems and processes, and coaching as a consultant.

Laurie and Mike Hickerson run LM Restaurant Consultants and provide executive search as well as consulting for startups and existing operations.

10

Kamalsky believes the best way to implement service standards is to custom create a training manual. “As a team, implement and vigorously train to make

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

managed from the top down with follow up practices to ensure consistency.

Managers must be out on the floor observing the service and following up with servers to provide feedback. Chiaro suggests emphasizing three top standards. “Talk about them at pre-shift. Have your managers take notes when

TRENDS

they see standards dropped throughout service. Categorize and add up the

Motivation can be tricky. “Managers are there to smooth over any problems and

standards dropped.” Quick “pre-shifts” and longer staff meetings every month or

back up staff when necessary. If you create a cool place, work will be enjoyable,

two are recommended.

not drudgery. Enjoying your work and making good money are huge motivators,”

Knowing your staff well enough to put the right people in the right places is

says Hickerson.

another tip from Ancill. “Be sure you know and use each individual’s talents. For

Consultants understand change is hard and working with owners, and oft times

example if you have a server who is great with customers and very fast at taking

their families, calls for diplomacy. The Hickersons worked with a place where the

orders, etc. schedule that person on a busy shift. If there’s a server who is great

owner’s son was supposed to be the manager. “He hated the business and

with customers but slow on execution, then that server should be on slower

frequently did not show up for work. We had to convince the owner to find

shifts.”

“Waitstaff should be upbeat and attentive and anticipate what the diner will

professional management and deal with the father-son dynamic outside of the restaurant,” Hickerson shares.

want next before they ask for it,” says Mike Hickerson. Servers should know menu

Focusing on goals and results is the best approach according to Anderson.

items and their ingredients, and upsell when the opportunity arises. Clearing the

“Avoid ‘who is to blame’ conversations. Talk about the benefits of the new

table promptly of plates and debris will help sell dessert or an after dinner drink

process.”

because, “The diner can visualize room on the table for it.”

“A good waiter develops a style that fits with the tone and concept of the

A common mistake? Spending too much time on day-to-day operations. “Time is your most valuable asset,” says Chiaro. “Delegate, train and outsource

restaurant. This is all teachable stuff. Yet so many managers and operators just

effectively. With the advent of the internet and independent contractors, many of

don't take the time with the front of the house staff that they should.”

my clients have been able to outsource their bookkeeping, social media posting,

Other tips include asking staff for suggestions and feedback in order to

video marketing, web design, and email marketing.”

improve. Touching tables, asking questions and listening also leads to better

Chiaro concludes, “Restaurants are one of the hardest businesses with fierce

service and happier guests. “Communication is everything. The root of most

competition, ever changing markets and low margins. It takes a great formula and

problems can be traced to communication breakdowns,” Anderson stresses.

a great team for a restaurant to succeed.”

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

11

SUR LE MENU

Fruit

I

ncorporating fruit into a dish not only provides an air of vibrancy and color, it also takes advantage of the bounty that each season has to offer.

Fruit like mangos, kumquat, apples and citrus of various types typically accompany entrees in the forms of sauces, relishes and chutneys and can also serve as integral ingredients for preparation. Savory dishes allow for flexibility in flavor and welcome the integration of raisins, currants and figs among other fruit. Citrus fruit breaks the seasonal mold. Found virtually all year long, citrus lends itself to an immense host of dishes—from breakfast to dessert—and is at its best when used to compliment seafood. Use fruit that are unique to the time of year to highlight sweet, sour, bitter and even umami notes in a dish. Chef Seakyeong Kim turns rhubarb into a creamy yogurt to accompany his pan roasted scallops. Sur Le Menu!

K’ya Bistro Bar – Laguna Beach Bacon Wrapped Dates: Medjool dates stuffed with blue cheese, wrapped in applewood smoked bacon ......................6 Cleo – Hollywood Beef Cheek Tagine: Caramelized onion, apples, prunes, almonds ......................15 Herringbone – La Jolla Berkshire Pork Chop: 12 oz grilled, onion subise, Comice pear, fennel, walnuts ....28 Feed Body & Soul – Venice Beach Cabbage and Wild Rice Sandwich: Shaved cabbage, apple, cranberry, herbs, apple cider vinegar.........................................9 Blue Bayou – Anaheim Cajun Spiced Salmon: Goat cheese, oven roasted tomatoes, artichokes, citrus beurre blanc, blue bayou potatoes, seasonal vegetables ..........................................33 George’s at the Cove – La Jolla Diver Scallops: Ham hock, artichokes, sunchokes, black truffle-dashi, mustards, kumquat.............................................35

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Brussels Bistro – Laguna Beach Duo De Saucisses A La Belge Compote De Pommes Et Pommes De Terre Au Lard: Belgian style sausage, apples and bacon potatoes .............................................22

Pitfire Artisan Pizza – Various Locations Pitfire Chicken Salad: Grilled chicken, wild arugula, butter lettuce, torn croutons, pickled currants, shaved scallions, toasted pine nuts ................................11

The Hart and the Hunter – Los Angeles (PICTURED) Fried Chicken Livers: Arugula, radish, apple and onion jam, hazelnut ......................12

True Food Kitchen – Newport Beach Shaved Turkey Pita Sandwich: Provolone, tomato, onion, grape, yogurt dressing, served with choice of kale salad or sweet potato hash ...............................12

Bäco Mercat – Los Angeles Fried Rabbit Liver: Upland cress, jerk sauce, grape .......................................11 Cucina Urbana – San Diego Jidori Chicken: Quinoa, butternut squash, currant, warm pancetta vinaigrette........15 Matusu – Huntington Beach Matsu Love Boat: Steamed lobster (Australia), sesame chicken, beef teriyaki, chicken teriyaki shrimp, vegetable tempura, fresh fruit in season ............................32 Yard House – Various Locations Monte Cristo Pops: Ham, turkey and Swiss cheese mini sandwiches deep fried, dusted with powdered sugar, served with jalapeño peach syrup ..........................................6

The Cellar – Fullerton Tofu Napoleon: Thai barbeque glaze, strawberries, almonds, lime, mint, basmati rice........................................14 The Pony Room at Rancho Valencia Resort and Spa – Rancho Santa Fe Wood Roasted Scottish Trout: Chino Farms vegetable succotash, celery and citrus relish .................................................14 Café 21 – San Diego Masala Chai Tea Braised Beef Short Ribs: Boneless free range beef ribs, masala chai tea, mission figs, red onion honey braising sauce, served with sautéed green beans, house made curry potato gallette ..........21

SUR LE MENU

Pan Roasted Scallop, Ginger Pineapple Chutney, Rhubarb Yogurt, Edamame 4

U10 Scallops

1T

Salt and pepper Vegetable oil

COVER RECIPE

BY SEAKYEONG KIM

Sugar Salt and pepper

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat, add

In a small saucepot cook the rhubarb, simple syrup, white wine, balsamic and grenadine

Season scallops with salt and pepper. Add

vegetable oil. Quickly cook pineapple, ginger

until rhubarb is softened. Strain the rhubarb

enough vegetable oil to cover the bottom of

and shallots. Deglaze with white wine. Add

from the cooking liquid, and reduce liquid to a

the pan. Heat a large sauté pan over medium

sugar and reduce to dry. Season to taste.

glaze. Mix back together with the cooked

heat. Once hot, sear the scallops until

rhubarb. At service time add yogurt and mint.

crusted. Flip and cook evenly on the other

RHUBARB YOGURT

side.

1C

Rhubarb - small dice

TO SERVE

1/4 C

Simple syrup

Edamame beans

1/4 C

White wine

Dehydrated pineapple chip

Vegetable oil

1/2 t

White balsamic vinegar

In the center of a serving plate, place a dollop

1C

Pineapple - diced small

1T

Grenadine

of rhubarb yogurt. Place two pieces of scallop

1T

Ginger - grated

1C

Greek yogurt

over the yogurt. Top the scallops with the

1/2 C

Shallots - brunoise

2T

Mint - chiffonade

pineapple chutney. Garnish with edamame

1C

White wine

Salt and Pepper

and pineapple chip.

PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

13

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

Left: Lamb belly steamed buns with gochujang and tamarind yogurt by Chef Seakyeong Kim; right: Crispy skin sea trout with king trumpet mushrooms, beets and yuzu kosho vinaigrette by Chef Ross Pangilinan

The Five Main Flavors Using the main flavor profiles—sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami—chefs create memorable dishes guests come back for. Several local pros share their secrets on how to use each to maximum effect.

by Linda Mensinga

14

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

he five basic tastes—sour, umami (or savory), bitter, salty, and sweet—flavor foods by themselves, or in combinations, to balance a dish and take it to palate tingling levels. Some experts include spicy as a sixth taste. Making good food through instinct, trial and error, taste and experience is exciting. It’s what brings guests back to your restaurant for more. Every good chef has their own ideas and the great ones never stop learning.

“Some combinations work and some don’t. That’s the beauty of cooking, figuring out what you like,” Executive Chef/Partner Art Gonzales of roe in Long Beach says.

T

SOUR Adding a sour element is highly recommended to brighten and elevate a dish. “Sour makes the food fun,” Charlie Palmer Executive Chef Seakyeong Kim says.

Executive Chef David Shofner of WINEWORKS for Everyone and Dublin 4 says, “I love to play with different citrus in vinaigrettes like blood oranges, Meyer lemons and Cara Cara oranges. I also like mild acids such as red and white verjus. Finishing a veal demi with a vinegar like a banyuls or cabernet can really lighten up that sauce. I’m a huge fan of Minus 8 Vinegar (made in Canada from frozen grapes); the flavor is soft and fruity.”

Chef Manny Gonzalez of TAPS Fish House & Brewery in Brea adds, “Sour is key for cutting creamy fats and balancing strong flavors as in a fish dish. A squeeze of lemon and chili flakes go a long way in any bisque recipe.”

Familiar examples include, “Lemon juice squeezed on a simple grilled fish helps to enhance the flavor of the fish and bring balance to the dish,” says Chef Robert Carr of Twenty/20 at the Sheraton Carlsbad Resort & Spa. Executive Chef Russell Skall reduced lime juice for the crab cake sauce at Fleming’s Steakhouse & Wine Bar. “You want a little acid to bring out the crab flavors,” he says. “When creating a dish for the menu I think about side dishes, appetizers and salads. Then I try to

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E have a balance of offerings that range in flavor intensity. Fleming's salad has a lemon balsamic vinaigrette that balances the candied walnuts and dried cranberries so it’s very refreshing. The colossal shrimp skewers are served with a chimichurri sauce, with herbs, garlic and jalapeños but are balanced with a citrus and fennel salad.”

“I like using sour elements to lighten dishes. Like making a sour salsa verde with pork belly or making a yuzu kosho vinaigrette with crispy skin sea trout,” comments Executive Chef Ross Pangilinan of Leatherby’s Café Rouge in Costa Mesa. “I like using all kinds of flavor combinations and when creating menus I try to make sure there is a good variety of flavors from sweet and sour to salty and sweet.”

UMAMI Chef/owner Jason Quinn of The Playground in Santa Ana is a self-described vinegar junkie.

He recently discovered coconut vinegar in a Filipino market. “When we shop we look for new things and buy stuff we’ve never seen before to learn. We feel like we owe our guests food they can’t find elsewhere,” he says.

Quinn names a dish with salty, sweet, sour, spicy and umami all together. “Green papaya salad. You taste all the flavors in one bite. We don’t “do” written recipes. We taste and change the dish until it’s good. I can give you the ingredients: green papaya, lime juice, sugar, chiles, oil and fish sauce (a great source of glutamate). Start with equal parts and if one is too strong, fix it. Fish sauce, a condiment made from fermented fish and salt, has umami but is also salty and funky.

We plan to make our own from fermented

sardines.”

The largest concentration of glutamate is found in konbu, giant seaweed. The next best is regular seaweed according to Quinn.

Mushrooms, parmesan and ripe tomatoes also lend umami.

BITTER Pangilinan handles bitterness with care, “It’s one of the most sensitive tastes. When seasoning, you can balance bitterness with something sweet and also with sour. If I want to add bitterness I use coffee on steak or cocoa with venison or duck. Citrus peel is also very useful.”

Salad greens, mustard greens, frisee and arugula all have bitter tones but when balanced with the right dressing, become palate pleasing. “Fried kale or grilled radicchio turn a simple salad into something very complex in flavor and texture,” Chef Carr explains.

Bitterness can also balance a rich dish.

Chef Kim adds another use, “We char scallions to use on our pork belly to balance the flavor profile.”

Cocktails with bitters have become popular with mixologists to add depth and balance flavor. Angostura is a traditional ingredient in cocktails such as Manhattan or Rob Roy, but is also favored for creating new libations. New bitter cocktail components are emerging regularly.

SWEET Sweetness, in some form is the obvious balance for bitter flavors in coffee and chocolate but the preferred amount is subjective. Try it in savory dishes. “Sugar is

the most underutilized ingredient in the professional kitchen,” Chef Quinn believes.

“In the home kitchen it’s salt.”

Gonzales has a preference for sweetsalty. “My cooks call me out on it all the time.

They know what I’m going to say whenever I taste a recipe, ‘more salt and sugar’.”

While sweet is the central profile in desserts, balance is called for too. “I never want my desserts to be overly sweet!” declares Shofner. “I like a salted caramel, a citrus element or the addition of a vinegar reduction.”

Kim agrees. “We use fruit and spices or add a pinch of salt to lend a savory note.” At Charlie Palmer the guava mousse bombe dessert includes red currents and speculoos, a Dutch spice cookie. “Guava is very sweet, so adding the currants impart tartness, and the speculoos savory,” he explains. The chocolate orange blossom molten cake is served with a Campari coulis and orange blossom gelato.

“Campari is a great ingredient for bitterness and tartness. Cardamom and orange blossom have sweet and floral notes. Each contrasts nicely with the rich dark chocolate.”

Haven Gastropub Pastry Chef Santanna Salas also likes to keep desserts from being overtly sweet. “The addition of something salty, savory or an alcohol component easily balance a dish.”

Textures and temperatures also keep things interesting. Ice cream or warm sauces add contrast to temperature while, tuiles, nuts and cookies carry texture.

To read more and see recipes for lamb belly, red curry mussels, prime rib beef tartar, sea trout and pork belly, visit Great-Taste.net.

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

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MELIS SA F O O D ’S SERV ICE

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PRO

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Photo by Michael Rutt

Chef Seakyeong Kim “They want something different, not just classical French anymore,” said Executive Chef Seakyeong Kim of patrons when asked if he feels any pressure to be innovative in his craft. To keep guests intrigued and satisfy his personal desire for the new and exciting, Seakyeong treats his menu like a revolving door. “Within a month to a month and a half, I get tired of a dish,” says Kim.

by Tiffany Haslacker

16

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urrently, his favorite dish on the menu at Charlie Palmer in Bloomindale’s South Coast Plaza is the lamb belly served on a steam bun (photo on page 14), with gochujang (Korean spicy sauce), cucumber, tamarind yogurt and sesame seeds (see recipe at Great-Taste.net.) This is bound to change soon though, as he constantly asks himself, “What is my own cuisine?” In hopes of answering this question, Chef Kim meditates before bed, reads voraciously, tries new dishes and takes advantage of social media—the ones that allow him to keep up to date with the culinary endeavors of friends on the East coast.

Striving for development and perfection are not goals that Chef Kim keeps to himself; they’re transmitted from sous chef to server. From prepping to plating to service, he strives to make his presence known in every aspect of the kitchen. In his own words, he describes his management style as comprising a balance of both “strictness and an enjoyable environment.” In order to achieve the latter, he fuses the concepts of learning and responsibility into one. His team is responsible for developing fresh and inspiring ideas that can be incorporated into the menu at Charlie Palmer. It is routine for Chef Kim to give one of his sous chefs the assignment of creating a dish or making an adjustment to a dish on a short deadline.

In his endeavor to be fair and treat co-workers equally for the greater good of the back of the house team, the Chef dishes out compliments and reprimands across the board. His favorite means of ensuring that he communicates with his entire team is group texting. “I text my team to make sure that even if someone wasn’t there that day, they know what mistake was made and that it should be corrected.”

www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

F E AT U R E : C H E F D E C U I S I N E Fortunate patrons of Charlie Palmer owe it to Kim’s aunt for encouraging him to attend the Culinary Institute of America. After serving in the Korean air force from age 18 to 20, Kim made his way to Manhattan, New York to visit his aunt. Before journeying back to his native home of Korea, his aunt advised him to give the CIA a try. Kim’s prosperous career is proof that sometimes all it takes is a single decision to set one on the road toward achieving his or her dreams. When he first visited the CIA, Chef Kim was overwhelmed with emotion. “This is heaven,” he thought, “I felt like the CIA was my dream school. I cried on the first day with joy and I cried again on the second day when I wondered how I would ever survive until graduation.”

With a minimal grasp of the English language, Kim was able to complete his studies at the CIA in two years and subsequently secure positions in places such as The Clerkenwell in London with Chef Andrew Thompson, Nobu London, and at The

Ledbury London. Kim expresses sincere gratitude towards his classmates that aided him in learning English. It is no wonder that he strives to create a positive learning environment at Charlie Palmer.

The key to contemporary American cuisine for Kim is an eclectic mentality in the kitchen.

At Charlie Palmer, Chef Kim flourishes with his freedom to create. Working in contemporary American cuisine allows him to fuse techniques and flavor profiles from his native land with those of Vietnam, Mexico and European countries. Such a broad range of culinary influence also cultivates his propensity for experimentation. One of Chef Kim’s unique culinary abilities is his knack for manipulating the senses. Often times he finds himself creating a dish that appears to be of one cuisine when plated, but has the flavor profile of another. His signature escargot dumplings, for example, are inspired by traditional French technique but transformed into a welcome shock to the senses with Asian spices and

Escargot Dumplings

M A K E C O N TA C T

ESCARGOT BUTTER

WONTONS

1C

White wine

20

Round wonton wrappers

Shallot

1C

Egg wash

1/2 C

Garlic - toasted

1/2 C

Escargot butter

Unsalted butter - softened

20

Escargot - rinsed and blanched

3T

Ground Parmesan

Egg wash one side of the wonton wrappers. Place

1/2 C

Fines herbs

a dollop of the escargot butter in the center of

Lemon zest

each wrapper. Top each dollop of butter with a

1C 1 lb

1 1/2

Salt and pepper In a small stockpot, reduce the white wine with the shallot until the liquid is reduced to glaze.

make a half moon. Bring each end together, egg

Add all of the ingredients to a mixing bowl and

wash one corner, and slightly overlap the dry side

whisk together. Generously season with salt and

with the washed side to create a tortellini shape.

pepper.

Repeat process for all 20 pieces.

PARMESAN BREAD CRUMBS

TO SERVE

1/2 C

Parmesan

1/4

Green cabbage - finely sliced

1C

Panko breadcrumbs

1/4

Red cabbage - finely sliced

1/4 C

Parmesan breadcrumbs

pan with a nonstick baking sheet and spread

Charlie Palmer Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza 3333 Bristol Street Costa Mesa, CA 92626 714.352.2525 www.charliepalmer.com

piece of escargot. Fold the dry side over onto the washed side of the wrapper and pinch close to

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees. Line a sheet

presentation, rather than the expected French.

Chef Kim says that the culinary world allows him to “appreciate art more.” It gives him a better understanding of how to use space when plating and also serves as inspiration for creative plating. As an artist is always aware of the flaws in their work, so does Kim retain an ever present state of conscientiousness. Perhaps this preoccupation with perfection is the driving force behind his desire to enable patrons to leave Charlie Palmer feeling as if they were exposed to an inspired modern twist on a traditional dish or means of preparation. “I want people to leave feeling like they are familiar with the flavors but have never thought of this combination.”

The root of Seakyeong’s career began in Korea when, as a child, he would sneak into the kitchen to watch his mother cook. As of now, he finds his home at Charlie Palmer. “I haven’t found anything more fun than cooking,” says Chef Kim. (He promises to let us know if he ever does.)

Salt and pepper

the Parmesan cheese evenly. Bake in the oven

Mix both colors of cabbage together. Place some

until golden brown. Repeat the process for the

of this mixture in the center of a small bamboo

panko. In a food processor grind the toasted

steamer. Surround the cabbage with 5 dumplings.

Parmesan. In a mixing bowl toss the panko with

Place the lid on the steamer and put over water

the ground Parmesan.

until the wrapper is cooked through.

Top each escargot dumpling with a pinch of

Chef Seakyeong Kim FAVORITE OC RESTAURANT: Hamamori.

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT: Live octopus.

FAVORITE CONDIMENT/SPICE: Chili flakes, coriander seeds.

DESCRIBE YOUR MANAGEMENT STYLE: Enjoyable, cheerful, competitive.

PREVIOUS INDUSTRY EMPLOYERS: Aureole N.Y, Charlie Palmer at the Joule in Dallas, Texas, the Clerkenwell in London.

FAVORITE JUNK FOOD: Chili hot dog.

the Parmesan breadcrumbs. Season to taste.

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

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T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

What you Need to Know About Insurance

by Solomon Williams Solomon Williams has over a decade specializing in risk management for the food service industry. He co-founded Excelsure Insurance Services in 2005 with his business partner Mark Habibeh. Excelsure has successfully helped hundreds of restaurants and foodservice companies manage their risk and control insurance costs.

S

tuff happens. Every business needs insurance and this is not an area where you should cut corners. Proper insurance protects you and your business from accidents, breakage, lawsuits, and more. Several types of insurance are required in the state of California. The types explained here are required or highly recommended.

WORKERS COMPENSATION: The State of California requires all businesses, including restaurants, to have Workers Compensation coverage for employees.

Besides price, restaurant owners should consider: claims service, risk management training, fraud detection efforts, and discounts offered for affiliation to industry related groups (California Restaurant Association, CRA), etc. It covers medical treatment for workplace injuries or illnesses and protects you from lawsuits occurring from these.

GENERAL LIABILITY: Basically, it covers third party (guest or staff) bodily liability and property damage. The biggest reason to have this is for slip and falls. This is by far the most frequent claim we see.

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH • APRIL 2013

PROPERTY INSURANCE: You will need insurance to cover damage to the structure, but also consider equipment used in the daily operation: air conditioning or heating units; also, plate glass windows and signs.

LIQUOR LIABILITY: This insurance protects the insured from the exposure of serving alcohol or negligently serving alcohol. For example: serving an underage person or over serving to someone clearly inebriated.

AUTOMOBILE LIABILITY: At a minimum, everyone should have Hired and Non-owned Auto Liability. Example: if an employer asks his employee to run to the store for supplies and the employee jumps in his or her own vehicle, the restaurants policy needs to address this. But if the restaurant owns a delivery vehicle, a commercial auto policy would be necessary.

LOSS OF BUSINESS INSURANCE: Absolutely necessary and comes included with most Business Owners Package policies. If the building burns down, the restaurant will obviously not be generating revenue. There will still be continuing operating expenses such as key personnel salaries, loan payments, etc.

EMPLOYMENT PRACTICES LIABILITY: I am shocked at how few restaurants have this insurance. In general, a restaurant owner is far more likely to have an EPLI claim than a General Liability Claim and yet few restaurants have this. EPLI covers an employer’s exposure to such things as sexual harassment, discrimination, or failure to hire or promote. It also covers

failure to comply with break, lunch breaks, and failure to pay overtime.

TENANT IMPROVEMENTS & BETTERMENTS COVERAGE: This is meant to cover the upgrades a business owner makes to leased premises. Restaurants can spend quite a bit in improvements to have the desired atmosphere. For example: a restaurateur installs new built-in seats and tables, a new bar, and paint. All of these items are actually part of the building now, but the restaurateur who leases doesn’t own the building and doesn’t have an insurable interest in the building. This is how it would be covered.

KEY MAN LIFE INSURANCE: Restaurateurs should get Key Man Life insurance on their chefs, especially if he or she is irreplaceable.

With this policy in place, if a chef suddenly passes away, the restaurant will receive funds to help soften the blow of the loss.

TO SAVE ON PREMIUMS: Many carriers offer discount for being members of certain groups such as the CRA. This should always be a question to ask when shopping for coverage. Installing non-slip flooring may not give an instant discount on the premium, but it will go a long way in preventing a claim, and being claim free saves restaurants lots of money on their premiums.

Find a good insurance broker! If your insurance broker is not shopping for better coverage every year, making recommendations for safety, assisting with claims, etc., find a new one. Look for a broker that specializes in restaurants.

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Cocktail Competitions The Bourbon Bunny Maker wins customers at Ford’s Filling Station

by Joel Black

S

ince the resurgence of the cocktail culture in 2007 many artisanal liquor brands have hosted competitions seeking out top mixologists. I have been lucky enough to compete and win several of these mix master throw downs. Whether it’s an iron chef style battle with secret ingredients or a head to head shake off focusing on speed and

technique, each bartender must be prepared to show his best.

I recently submitted a best- selling cocktail I created for Ford’s Filling Station in Culver City called the Bourbon Bunny Maker for the Luxardo Cocktail Cup. Luxardo Liqueurs, an Italian company, makes aperitifs, digestives and liqueurs.

Normally, I would create a cocktail just for the competition. But in this case I immediately thought of the Bunny Maker.

After a couple of rounds of judging, I got an email that I was heading to San Francisco with the finalists to compete and get a shot at an Italian getaway. Best of all, the competition took place at Anchor Distillery and we got a private tour of the spirits distillery which isn’t open to the public.

Anchor is known for craft beer but makes a line of excellent artisanal spirits. We even got to taste the fermented mash used to make their rye whiskey. It tasted like beer flavored oatmeal and was actually not bad, but was definitely better after being distilled in one of their two beautiful copper stills.

After the tour, we made our way to the private bar on the top floor of the distillery where we prepared to craft our libations. I drew to go first which is the kiss of death in competitions, but I knew all I could do was my best and have fun. Each bartender is given eight minutes to craft their cocktail, describe it, and tell how Luxardo is essential.

I brought a Japanese siphon to brew a chamomile tea. Using a bunson burner the water is heated, causing it to rise up the siphon into the tea basket, then the heat is removed, and the liquid travels back down through the filter resulting in perfectly brewed tea.

As I whipped up my libation, I explained to the judges that the Bourbon Bunny Maker embodies the SoCal lifestyle of

using fresh ingredients and juicing. The cocktail is made of a shot of bourbon, fresh lemon and carrot juice balanced with Luxardo Apricot liqueur and chamomile tea. The carrot juice promotes added vitamin B for extra sharp double vision (after consuming three of them), The apricot liqueur balances the citrus and carrot with a delicate sweetness that ties the drink together. The chamomile adds subtle earthy tones and complexity, it also calms the nerves and relaxes the body.

The rest of the mixologists followed and as I tasted each competitor’s cocktail I knew it would be tough to win. The best of the best competed with gourmet coffee from Seattle and house made crushed ice infused with mint. It was one of the best displays of craftsmanship and innovation I have seen in my 10 years as a barman.

After the final competitor, we went back down to the brewery’s main floor for a lavish reception and dinner. Each course was paired with a signature Luxardo cocktail crafted by the Luxardo Brand mixologist. It was a fantastic time and concluded with the big reveal of the 2012 Luxardo Cocktail Cup Grand Champion…

Clint Rogers of Chicago! (It wasn’t me.)

Here is the recipe for all who want to taste the road to almost cocktail glory.

BOURBON BUNNY MAKER 1 1/2 oz Bourbon whiskey 1/2 oz Lemon juice 1 oz Carrot juice 3/4 oz Luxardo apricot liqueur 1 oz Chamomile tea Lemon slice and carrot zest - to garnish Add ingredients to shaker set except garnish. Shake nice and easy. Strain over ice into a rocks glass, garnish with a lemon and zest.

MARCH • APRIL 2013 | great taste

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