Great Taste Magazine September/October 2013 www.great-taste.net

EUROPA SAUSAGES 22 SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013

BREAD 20

MICRO GREENS 21

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FROM THE EDITOR

T E R I’S TAK E

CONTENT INSIDE 5 BOOKS

Content

1 7 Spicy, Savory or Sweet, Sausages Spark our Appetites Sausage - the who, the what and the why.

In the Charcuterie

1 8 Condiment Nation If you can eat it, there is a condiment for it.

TRENDS 1 2 MARKETING YOUR SAUCE

1 9 Venison and Fries at Ty’s Owner Scott surfs in the morning and

Marketing expert Chris Cornyn give us the

flips wild game burgers in the afternoon.

inside scoop on marketing house-made

H

THE BIZ 2 0 FRONT OF THE HOUSE

sauce.

F E AT U R E 1 4 BURGERS, SANDWICHES AND

Bread

21

SAUSAGES OH MY!

BACK OF THE HOUSE Mighty Micro Greens

22

Everyone has a “between the buns” obsession. This issue covers all things

OPERATIONS Old World Sausage, New World Success

burgers, sandwiches and sausages from

23

bread types to condiments.

BEVERAGES The Blind Pig’s Gabrielle Dion

1 5 Penny for your Patty?

Old school hamburgers are a thing of the past - or are they?

1 6 Stand out Sandwich Stuff From toppings, to protein, there is a star element on every sandwich.

D E PA RT M E N T S 5 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 1 0 SUR LE MENU

On The Cover The Venison Burger shown on the cover from Ty’s Burger House in Oceanside, CA. is topped with poached pears in red wine, mushrooms, bacon, lettuce and tomato and comes with a choice of fries, sweet potato fries, onion rings or a side salad. The New Zealand Cervena Venison is free range, grass fed, humanely raised, and boasts a mild flavor. Read more about Ty’s Burger House on page 19. Photo by Michael Rutt.

MORE THAN CHEFS

eard a blogger friend the other day boasting two years of “writing for food,” so that got me thinking... How long has it been since I started learning the industry, meeting all the restaurateurs, getting to know and interviewing Chefs? I’m proud to report that thirteen years ago my very first issue hit the street. A beautiful shot of Mr. Stox graced the cover and Carlito Jocson was the Chef that we profiled. Yard House was young and restaurants weren’t quite so plentiful.

During the last thirteen years many restaurants have come and gone and I’m happy that I’ve had the opportunity to visit many of them. The quality of the food, the service and the heart of the establishment continue to populate our yard stick.

We were the only magazine in town that was profiling chefs and their restaurants. We've come a long way “baby.” Like restaurants, food-centric publications continue to multiply, so, as the new year creeps up on us, we’re reexamining our focus and welcome your feedback. Visit www.great-taste.net and click on our survey under the home tab and tell us what you would like to discover with Great Taste.

Thirteen years later “Eat, Drink & Be Teri” is still working for me. Cheers!

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s

}

GABRIEL CALIENDO

KATIE AVERILL

Corporate Executive Chef

Chef/Proprietor

Lazy Dog Restaurant

Eat Street

chair, these talented chefs share their

expertise with us as

our Culinary Advisors.

and Bar

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

3

INSIDE

PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH HONEY DATE CONSISTING OF 70% SUGAR AND HIGH IN FIBER, THE HONEY DATE HAS MORE CALCIUM AND VITAMIN A THAN OTHER DATES. It is soft, creamy, moist, sweet and often compared to the flavor of molasses.

The history of the honey date remains ambiguous. Sources suggest that the origin of the nut is Shexian County in China. Now, it is globally famous and goes under several names such as “King Dates” or “The Honey.” Its official name is the “Shui Dong Honey Date.”

No matter the size or ambiguity, this little gem has a bold flavor and leaves an even bigger impression when added into recipes. You can use them in replace of syrup when baking, spread a small amount of cream cheese on top or add them in a bowl of vanilla ice cream. Don’t forget to remove the pits!

The honey date harvest begins in August and ends in spring.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. From www.theproducehunter.com.

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INSIDE

SINCE 2000

Cheese Pick of the Month

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Elise Felicetta Lauren Harrity Tiffany Haslacker Chantal Lozano Linda Mensinga

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

FISCALINI 18 MONTH CHEDDAR

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

Fiscalini Farms, a state-of-the-art dairy facility, makes their cheddar the old fashioned way—with a cheddar mill. Fiscalini 18 Month Cheddar is a traditional cheddar cheese with a hearty, nutty flavor, crumbly flesh and no rind.

The Fiscalini family has been farming in the San Joaquin Valley for over 100 years since John

ADVERTISING

Fiscalini’s grandfather purchased the land for a dairy site in 1912. The Fiscalinis exclusively use milk

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from their own farm and a high quality feed is given to their cows in order to ensure they produce the

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best possible milk for their cheddar.

Fiscalini Cheddar has won the gold medal in the World Cheese Awards twice and in 2003 was

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

the only American cheddar to receive an award in London. The sharp, buttery textured cheddar is best paired with hearty red wines and makes an excellent cheddar cheese soup or savory cheese scones.

For more information on Fiscalini 18 Month Cheddar and other cheeses, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

BOOKS

harcuterie, the art of preserving meats, gets explored in this much anticipated debut cookbook from the husband and wife team behind the San Francisco Bay Area’s Fatted Calf Charcuterie. Taylor Boetticher and Taponia Miller met at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park then moved to the Bay Area where they worked in several restaurants before opening the Fatted Calf.

In The Charcuterie boasts over 125 recipes, using a wide array of meat products from potted meats to sausages. This cookbook is the first in its genre to feature full color photography and has fully illustrated instructions for making cured, stuffed and brined meats at home. In addition, it covers a wide range of topics, from butchery to preservation. Charcuterie is a beloved tradition and In The Charcuterie is a cookbook that can benefit everyone from beginners to experts. It is a must have for any at home charcuterie kitchen. To order this and other great publications, please visit www.Great-Taste.net.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste 5

C

STAY CONNECTED TO WHAT’S HOT IN THE OC We are the OC foodie connection with breaking news and events added daily!

FEATURING CHEF VIDEOS CALENDAR RESTAURANTS OPENING SOON VIEW OUR BACK ISSUES CHEF RECIPES SUBSCRIBE TAKE OUR CONTENT SURVEY

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INSIDE

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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

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INSIDE

VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN SAUSAGES

WHO SAYS THAT VEGETARIANS AND VEGANS CAN’T EAT SAUSAGE? These delectable spin-offs of the traditional carnivore delicacy can take on the spice profiles of various cuisines including Italian (fennel, garlic, red peppers and eggplant) and Hispanic (chipotle, arbol chilies, garlic and onions).

Rather

than

meat

casings,

these

vegetarian and vegan sausage are made with plant-based casings and filled with the likes of tofu, soybean and vegetables, which makes for a great alternative for those with restrictive diets. Chef Bernhard Mairinger of Bierbiesl welcomes vegetarians with his tofu sausage. “Even though working with this kind of texture is a little more difficult than meat, our tofu sausages turn out great and even meat eaters order them,” says Mairinger.

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INSIDE

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

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SUR LE MENU

Sides Lena’s Famous Fried Pickles at Beachwood BBQ

A

side dish not only traditionally accompanies an entrée or main dish, but compliments it as well. The most commonly featured side dishes include salad, potatoes and bread which allow the typical meal to be well comprised of meat, vegetables and a starch. For those of us who are adventurous with our food and take the time to look for them, there are a variety of unusual side dishes to be found locally. Sometimes we cringe at the thought of pairing seemingly mix matched ingredients but it’s not until we try these foreign combinations that we realize the flavors meld perfectly and are quite enjoyable. Breaking away from normal side dishes allows restaurants to be unique, defined, and creative in their menu design. It also creates a new following of exploratory eaters. These restaurants take your average side dish and add a unthought-of twist to make them simply unusual. Kudos to the chefs behind these tasty sides Sur Le Menu!

Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern - various locations Alesmith Ale Battered Onion Rings: served with JFAT chipotle ketchup ....................9 The Blind Pig - Rancho Santa Margarita Bowl Cherries: bacon fat dipped cherries, bacon dust, brie-yogurt ..........................7 Beer Belly - Los Angeles Death by Duck: duck fat fries, duck skin cracklins, duck confit ............................8 Utopia - Long Beach Fried Artichoke Hearts: breaded artichoke hearts with creamy pesto sauce .............9 Broadway by Amar Santana - Laguna Beach Fried Brussel Sprouts: Chinese sausage, cilantro, sweet and sour .........................9

10

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Haven Gastropub - various locations Fried Pig Ears: Hatch chile aioli, mango ketchup................................................7

Berlin Currywurst - various locations Sauerkraut salad: carrots and oranges ....4

Beachwood BBQ - various locations Lena’s Famous Fried Pickles .................5

Lucille’s Smokehouse Bar-B-Que - various locations Southern Fried Okra: cornmeal breaded okra pieces deep-fried to perfection, piled high and served with spicy ranch and Creole mustard for dipping ....................4

The Attic on Broadway - Long Beach Mac ‘N Cheetos: cheddar, mozzarella, jack cheese, and bacon with crumbled spicy cheetos and green onions .....................7

Catal Restaurant & UVA Bar - Anaheim Stuffed Piquillo Peppers: goat cheese, pine nuts and golden raisins, Spanish sherry pearls ................................................12

Typhoon - Santa Monica Manchurian Chambai Ants: on a hill of shoe string potatoes ...........................12

Wild Goose Tavern - Costa Mesa Sweet Potato & Goat Cheese Fritters: roasted garlic, aioli and cilantro chimichurri ......4

The Federal Bar - Long Beach Maple-Glazed Sweet Potato Tots ............6

Charlie Palmer - Costa Mesa Truffled Mac and Cheese .....................12

DivBar - Newport Beach Jalapeno Corn Bread..............................4

SUR LE MENU

Mini Cervena Venison Burgers 2.2 lbs

Ground Cervena venison leg

1t

Dried oregano

1t

Ground cinnamon

8 stems

Flat leaf parsley - leaves removed

CHEF BRAD FARMERIE, PUBLIC RESTAURANT, NEW YORK

and finely chopped 2t

Extra virgin olive oil

2t

Maldon salt*

1/2 t

Freshly ground pepper

1. Separate meat into 12 equal portions.

2. With your hands, lightly form the meat into

You can make venison into ground meat in

patties, taking care not to pack them too tightly.

three ways:

3. Grill over a medium flame to medium rare,

1. (Recommended method) Chop the meat by

about 1-2 minutes on each side. Be careful not

hand until the pieces are about the size of

to overcook the burgers as the meat cooks very

lentils.

quickly.

2. Roughly chop the meat, place in a food processor and lightly pulse the blade until the

*Maldon Salt is a flavorful salt from the United

venison looks like ground meat.

Kingdom that can be found in specialty stores,

3. If you have a meat grinder push the venison

but Kosher salt can also be used.

through the grinder.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

11

TRENDS

Chipotle Ketchup at the all American Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern is sold in 16 ounce bottles for $8. It was inspired by a trip that owner David Wilhelm took to Cape Town, South Africa.

Marketing Your Condiment

by Tiffany Haslacker

DO YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO MARKET YOUR CREATION? Put your late night, car ride inspired recipes to the test. Great Taste talked to Chris Cornyn, founder and President of the Bay Area based food branding agency DINE Marketing and the Lifetime Television network’s Supermarket Superstar judge and mentor and got insider info on what it takes to turn your humble creation into the latest must-have on kitchen tables everywhere.

Q: What is the first step an entrepreneur should take when attempting to get their product mass distributed?

A: Most entrepreneurs have wonderful and creative ideas, but getting them mass distributed is a real challenge.

Knowing the realities of the business and being prepared for them is the first step. Fact is, it takes on average about 3 years before a food company becomes profitable, so being well capitalized and understanding how to make money in the business is just as important (if not more important) than the taste of your product.

Q: Any major faux pas you suggest avoiding?

A: Thinking just because your family and friends like the product that America is going to love it. Get your product into the hands of strangers that can be truthful.

Q: How important is a niche factor?

A: Being unique is key. Whether you want to call it a niche or perhaps you just have a way of approaching a big established category in a new way, there are three key words in the food business: new, new and new.

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TRENDS Q: How is a product’s viability determined?

A: 1. Can it make a profit?

2. Does the world want it?

3. Is it unique enough to stand out among the other 48,000 products in the average supermarket?

Q: What do you think about the current status of condiments?

A: Condiments are a great new frontier. Look at the proliferation of new ones lately—Sriracha, flavored mayo’s, BBQ sauces from Korea and other parts of the world, ketchup packaged in the upside down bottles! We are all looking for new flavors and convenient ways to use them. I think condiments are going to continue to explode.

Q: How should one alter their approach when branding and marketing a condiment versus other food products?

A: Every product is unique and needs a reason for being. Whether you are a cookie or a condiment, you need to master what we call the STOP and SELL. Get a consumer to STOP in the aisle and pick up the product and then SELL them to put it in their cart.

Q. What are your top three tips for those seeking to get their products manufactured and on the shelves of grocery stores?

A. 1. Make sure you have something that is truly new—the brand, the product, the messaging.

2. Have passion and patience for the business. There are no instant hits in the food world.

3. Packaging makes the product. Spend time and effort on messaging and involve experts to help if you are not one.

Q. What roles do branding and quality play in determining viability?

A. Quality is a given, you have to have that. Branding is what stops a consumer in the aisle and gets them to pick [a product] up and put it in their cart.

Q. How likely is an individual to be successful if they are attempting to market a variation on an already popular product?

A. 9 out of 10 new food products fail but introducing a twist in a sleepy category that is ripe for innovation is a good idea. There are a lot of sleepy categories in the supermarket where nothing has changed for years. Come up with a twist to make [a product] more convenient, create a whole new set of flavors or develop a contemporary brand and you have a good shot.

Q. In what ways must one adjust their branding and marketing tactics when selling to specialty markets in contrast to super markets?

A. You have a lot more freedom and leeway in specialty markets. Specialty markets will take risks on new products and often command higher prices.

Specialty markets want to sell a unique experience to their consumers, so if your product is unique or special, you will have a chance in the specialty channel.

Q. Is the success of all popular food products subject to the next best thing?

A. Everyone is competing for share of the stomach.

However, there are some perennials that will always have some insulation from competition—especially iconic foods that are hard to duplicate like Oreo or Heinz Ketchup.

Q. Which popular food products have a keen eye for marketing?

A. I love all the old brands that re-invent themselves to stay relevant with each generation. PopTarts, Campbell’s, Nesquik even Coke continue to innovate and find new ways to stay relevant. There are plenty that could have survived had they simply evolved the brand and product.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

“BETWEEN THE BUNS” FEATURES ALL THINGS BURGERS, DOGS, SANDWICHES AND SAUSAGES. What makes the perfect sandwich? What about the perfect burger or hotdog? From condiments to sides to where to get the best bang for your buck, we’ve got you covered. After all, some of the best things in life can be found slapped between two slices of bread. Some establishments dedicate their services entirely to all things “between the buns,” and there is an influx of fast causal restaurants that are popping up left and right.

We unearth some So Cal gems that are go-to spots for house-made condiments and guide you to top of the notch eateries where you’ll find the OC’s best burgers, sausages and sandwiches. Whether you’re a burger beau or a sausage devourer, we’re all guilty of a “between the buns” or sausage lovers obsession. Read on for a nostalgic look back at burgers, the ideal bread types to use for burgers and sandwiches (p.20) and the greens to top them with (p.21), must-try condiments (p.17), old world sausages (p.18) and check out tips on the ins and outs of marketing your sauces (p.12).

O.M.G. Burger at The Catch in Anaheim

WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A GOOD BURGER? The Shwack, Dana Point.

WHAT MAKES IT YOUR FAVORITE? It’s the best turkey burger ever. Never dry. Nine out of my ten favorite burgers are beef hamburgers but this turkey burger is #1.

WHAT TOPPINGS AND CONDIMENTS DO YOU LIKE ON IT? It comes with cranberry chutney and Swiss cheese.

Q&A with Chef Katie Averill

WHICH BEVERAGE BEST ACCOMPANIES IT? A cold beer. I like a wheat beer like hefeweizen.

WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR FAVORITE HOT DOG? WITH WHICH CONDIMENTS? Anaheim Farmer’s Market—caramelized onions and peppers.

WHAT SIDES DO YOU LIKE BEST WITH THE BURGER OR DOG? Sweet Potato Fries.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE STORE BOUGHT KETCHUP? MUSTARD? You can’t beat Heinz Ketchup or horseradish whole grain mustard.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE SANDWICH? A real pressed panini. I had a grilled aparagus, brie and carved ham pressed panini in San Francisco years ago that I have not forgotten.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BREAD TYPE FOR A BURGER, DOG OR SANDWICH? Ciabatta.

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F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

Penny for your Patty?

CONGRESS

Say hello to the likes of 8 pound burgers and

ENDORSES LOUIS’ LUNCH IN NEW HAVEN,

condiments that blow the albeit classic ketchup and

A whole new world reveals itself when you extend your

CONNECTICUT AS THE FIRST ESTABLISHMENT TO

mayonnaise out of the water and don’t forget sliders -

burger budget to the $10 - $15 range. Peanut butter

OFFICIALLY SERVE HAMBURGERS, THERE IS

these baby versions of hamburgers can throw a

and jelly is the comfort food of insomniac youth, it

SOME CONTROVERSY SURROUNDING THE FACT.

powerful one, two punch to your taste buds.

doesn’t belong on a patty. Or does it? Slater’s 50/50,

ALTHOUGH

THE

LIBRARY

OF

$10 - $15

Was it really Louis’ Lunch or was it Fletcher Davis,

Whether you have just a few bucks or a couple of

home of the 50% ground bacon and 50% ground

brothers Frank and Robert Menches, Charlie Nagreen,

twenties to spare, there is a place in the OC that

beef patty proclaims the latter. A Peanut Butter and

or Oscar Billy? (Those born in the 90’s might argue

serves a hamburger within your budget. At The Habit

Jellously burger will send you home with nostrils

that McDonald’s was the first and who can blame

Burger Grill, Greenleaf Gourmet Chopshop, Fleming’s

permeated with bacon and strawberry jelly stained lips.

them?) It may be difficult to truly mark the beginning

Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, The Federal Bar, crow

of the sandwich that has engrained itself into the

bar and kitchen and The Ritz Restaurant & Garden

The Greco at The Federal Bar also boasts a multi-

American identity but there is no denying the

you can feast on hand crafted hamburgers and sliders

meat crafted patty. It is made from a lamb/beef

resonating presence of places like Louis’ Lunch,

for less than $10.

combination and served with Greek condiments (tzatiki

White Castle, Hamburger Hamlet, Hof’s Hut,

makes the list of course) as inferred by its name.

McDonald’s, and In-N-Out that have earned their

$9 AND UNDER

stripes as burger veterans.

Habit Burger serves “charburgers” or charbroiled

For those who love to take part in foodie dares there is the Huitlacoche Mexican Burger at Anepalcos Café.

Some of us have heard our parents tell stories of

burgers in a “fresh not frozen” style. The Double

Huitlacoche, a type of fungus that forms in galls on all

sharing enticingly low priced hamburgers between

Charburger made with two patties, fresh cut lettuce

above-ground parts of corn species, is crafted into a

friends at a drive-in movie and most of us have

and tomato topped with caramelized onions is the

huitlacoche aioli that dresses their 8 ounce patty.

special memories of summer barbeques during which

chain’s pride and joy. Try the burger alone for $3.95

hamburgers reign as a staple crop of sorts. Today, you

or with fries and a drink for $7.20.

can get a hamburger from the drive thru for as little

The $6 mini turkey sliders at Greenleaf aren’t your

as pocket change or dine on entrée priced

typical sliders. They come complete with red onion

hamburgers prepared with such flare that some tread

marmalade and pomegranate aioli and are served on

in gourmet waters.

a sesame seed bun.

Rounding out our $10 - $15 all stars is the eclectic Tripel Burger at The Tripel. It boasts duck confit, pork, and aged beef; not to mention truffle pecorino, arugula and house made apricot jam. $16 - $60

When White Castle first opened in 1921 in

Happy hour should really be called “ecstatic hour”

Wichita, Kansas, a hamburger, then colloquially

at Fleming’s. The all beef Prime Burger served for $6

at first glance seem preposterous, the burgers that fit

referred to as a “slider,” only set you back 5 cents. In

is a fan favorite amongst patrons; fixed with bacon

the bill prove their rank. Truffles - the coveted of all

1948 you could get a cheeseburger, fries and a drink

and cheese (ingredients synonymous with magic) it is

coveted mushrooms. Infuse them into cheese and

at In-N-Out for 55 cents. If you were strolling down

a liberal offering for any happy hour.

pair them with fries and you have the makings of

While a $16 - $60 price range for a hamburger might

the streets of Belmont Shore in the 1950’s you could

If you love blue cheese, you’ll be doing yourself a

hamburger heaven. For $23 you can feast on the

stop into Hof’s Hut and grab a “hofburger” for 15

disservice if you don’t try The Federal Bar’s Mini

Wood-Grilled Truffle Burger at Lark Creek Newport

cents and the world renowned McDonald’s sold its

Stuffed Blue Cheese Burgers. For $9 you get three

Beach. It’s decked out with Périgord black truffle

first hamburger from a franchise location for 15 cents

mini patties of perfection, infused with blue cheese

cheese, truffle aioli and frisee on a brioche bun - let’s

in 1955. When Hamburger Hamlet opened on Sunset

and slathered with grain mustard and crispy onions.

just say you might be able to skip breakfast the next

Boulevard in 1950, patrons got a taste of what would

For an even better deal, try them at $7 during happy

morning.

soon become one of the legendary places to eat a

hour.

burger in the city of lights.

Gargantuan, planetary, mammoth, colossal, mondo

Since the opening of The Ritz Restaurant & Garden

- just a few words that allude to the last but not least hamburger (or should we say the whole farm?) to top

The air in the first half of the twentieth century

in 1977, the Hans Burger has been a favorite

must have been laden with the smell of freshly cooked

amongst patrons. Sold for $7.50, it is comprised of

our list. You can’t talk about mega burgers without

patties and warm buns. As hard as it may be, we must

an all beef patty, bacon, American cheese and

mentioning the infamous O.M.G. hamburger at The

put our hamburger nostalgia under a microscope.

Thousand Island dressing.

Catch. You better have a twice fortified net to reel in

There is no denying that since hamburgers first made

The $9 Grandma Jane at the crow bar and kitchen

the O.M.G which has a total weight of 8 pounds

their appearance in the mainstream food world there

is made with a top secret blend of all natural angus

including toppings (complete with 16 slices of

has been a revolution marked by an increase in price

and prime beef served on a toasted English muffin

cheese) and the sea of fries that wades at the base of

and bravado of fixings. Great Taste would like to think

with herbed cream cheese, sliced red onion, tomato,

its 14 inch buns. For $59.95 you and everyone you

that these changes reflect the creative turn that the

and onion sprouts. Gluten free is available upon

have ever known can split the bill and split the

once plain Jane patty and bun have taken. A recent

request. The restaurant kicks their proprietary blend

challenge of taking down this beast of a burger. As

trend on the tongue of foodie aficionados is the

up a notch at the newest addition to their repertoire,

every challenge promises glory at the finish line, so

Ramen Burger. Slap a patty between two buns made

crow burger kitchen. The hamburgers there are

does scorching down the O.M.G. Any single individual

of fried ramen noodles and you’ll have the

composed of prime chuck, short rib, brisket and

to successfully consume the burger gets the chance

revolutionary version of a college student’s scanty diet.

hanger steak.

to leave The Catch 8 pounds heavier and $500 richer.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

15

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E The Quattro Fromaggi from Old Vine Cafe

STAND OUT SANDWICH STUFF SATISFYING, PORTABLE, A COMPLETE MEAL BETWEEN SLICES OF BREAD, THE SANDWICH IS ENDLESSLY ADAPTABLE TO SUIT EVERYONE’S TASTES. Every culture has an interpretation—think arepas, paninis, tortas, rotis, gyros, shawarma, falafel and banh mi. Who hasn’t loved a grilled cheese, French dip, Monte Cristo, sub or PB&J? While most of us have our favorites, new flavors and combinations are always welcome. Orange County has no shortage of spirited sammies from reimagined classics to gutsy diversions and many notable signature sandwiches. The list here is by no means comprehensive, just a sampling.

THE BACKBONE - BREADS AND BUNS

sandwiches. The tortas are served on Telera rolls with

garnish used to create a peppery accent). At the Café

Whole wheat, multigrain, rye, white or raisin?

a choice of carnitas, steak, citrus chicken,

del Ray in Marina del Ray the BLTA sandwich is

Baguette, croissant or roll? With so many kinds of

vegetables or chorizo and fried egg.

topped with braised bacon, tomato, avocado, whole grain mustard and crisp onion.

breads available, sandwich lovers base decisions on preferences and type of filling available. Soft, chewy,

CHEESE – GOOEY AND LUSCIOUS

or crusty bread needs to be dense enough to stand

Favored by the masses on its own, grilled or layered

Santa Margarita makes a Mushroom Salad sandwich

up to veggies, meats, cheeses and condiments

with meats and toppings is cheese. Mixing and

with pickled celery, dried cherries, arugula and

without falling apart. Grilled, toasted or pressed, the

matching cheddar, gruyere, brie, blue, Havarti,

pistachio mayonnaise.

bread adds to the visual appeal of any sandwich.

Swiss, jack, American, muenster, mozzarella,

At Anepalco’s Café in Orange, Chef Danny

Oaxaca, gouda, etc. makes those with unrestricted

Godinez has given toppings much thought. His

Chef Mark McDonald serves his Quattro Fromaggi sandwich on focaccia panini, a perfect vessel for

diets devotees of the popular dairy product.

In a nod to vegetarians, The Blind Pig in Rancho

Jalapeño Chimichurri Sandwich with beef marinated

provolone, gruyere, pecorino, Soledad’s Goat Cheese,

In Santa Ana, Grilled Cheese Spot lets fans build

in achiote, topped with mushrooms, provolone, green

shiitake mushrooms and arugula, with pomodoro

their own creation, a choice of two cheeses—

leaf, roasted tomato and poblano aioli on ciabatta

sauce for dipping at Old Vine Café in Costa Mesa.

taleggio, muenster and Spanish manchego, to name

more than satisfies.

The Federal Bar in Long Beach features the Naan-

a few of the 15 listed.

The signature sandwich “Between Grilled Cheese

Strami, with shaved pastrami, manchego cheese,

Bone marrow gravy is drizzled over the Oxtail & Osso Bucco Sandwich at Beachwood BBQ in Seal

& Croque Monseiur” at Marche Modern in Costa Mesa

Beach. Beer braised oxtail and beef osso bucco is

consists of Comte de Jura, Beemaster Grand Cru and

served open faced on savory demi-glace French

King Cut Gruyere and is served with tomato soup.

toast. Toppings include green chilies, gruyere cheese

eggs and ham, tuna melt, crème brulée, and lemon

TOPPINGS – VEGGIES AND MORE

best bite.

meringue pie. In addition to the trendy quick casual

Besides lettuce and tomato, sandwich kings layer

Sandwiches have a spirit all their own and in any

waffle shops opening, full service restaurants are

onion, peppers, spinach, pickle, olive, sprouts,

variation, they fit multiple flavors and textures into

starting to add more waffle selections to their menus.

avocado and arugula (currently the most popular

every bite. Who could ask for more?

house pickles and Russian dressing on naan.

Waffles, (not just for breakfast anymore), provide a light, crispy base for sandwiches and utilize the

and fried, smoked onion rings. It just might be the

crispy cakes as vehicles for smoked salmon, green

THE CORE – PROTEINS “America loves the torpedo or submarine type sandwich because it’s a classic creation. We all love cured meat and the Grinder has plenty of it,” says TAPS Owner/founder Joe Manzella. His restaurants, TAPS in Brea and Corona and The Catch in Anaheim, pay homage to the sandwich all year with the “Famous 50.” Each week a favorite is created and offered to guests.

Instead of jam, Elvis liked his peanut butter with sliced bananas on white bread fried in butter.

Provisions in Orange updates his favorite with the CB&J, roasted in-house cashew butter, stout-apricotbacon jam and banana chips heated on the panini press.

Sliced and Diced Eatery, open just since February in Long Beach, serves Mexican and American

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013

Pulled Pork on a Pretzel Bun at Beachwood BBQ

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

Spicy, Savory or Sweet, Sausages Spark our Appetites THE WORD “SAUSAGE” STIRS UP AROMAS AND IMAGES OF BROWNED CRISPY TUBES POPPING WITH JUICY, MEATY GOODNESS. Satisfying, succulent texture keeps sausage on menus in increasingly creative guises. Humble in origin, sausages helped our less affluent ancestors make the most of every animal.

A sausage trio is the best selling appetizer at The Crow Bar in Corona del Mar. Chef John Cuevas orders smoked cheddar bratwurst, spicy Polish and Nuerinberger brats from Europa Sausages. Three condiments are plated with the sausages: spicy mustard, ‘Crow’ sauerkraut and house-made tomato chutney.

“Old Vine Cafe proudly serves Europa Sausage, not only for the exceptional quality, but for the care and service that backs it up,” says Chef Mark McDonald.

Huts, stands, trucks, butchers and restaurants serve sausages. Products come from a range of reputable suppliers such as Europa, while others work with suppliers to develop recipes. Some chefs are even making their own.

“The animals on the local farms we source our meat from are never fed antibiotics, preservatives or hormones,” says Hardeep Manak owner of Berlin Currywurst in Silverlake. “Being raised in a family owned restaurant in Germany introduced me to all the finer points of house-made sausage.” Now, he has a local German butcher prepare the family recipes. Manak recommends pairing certain sausages with specific sauces. “The Scharfe Kaesewurst (beef, jalapeño, cheese) is amazing with the orange-ginger sauce.”

Sandie Schwager sources her sausages for Jägerhaus in Anaheim, from Mattern Sausage. She sells anywhere from 120 to 180 pounds of sausages a week, approximately 320 orders. “Although we make everything from scratch using our recipes that go back seven generations in Germany, we get our sausages from Mattern who also uses ingredients from original recipes that have been passed down from generation to generation,” she says.

Another fan of Mattern is Head Viking for The Viking Truck, Luis Flores. “We buy only from them because it’s a small family owned business,” he says. The toppings add excitement to their menu of bratwurst, all beef hot dogs, chicken apple and hot Polish sausage. Brown mustard, dark ale chili, braised red cabbage and paprika aioli add zing to the Nemesis, and Viking Dog sandwiches. “We go through 300500 pounds of sausage a month which is 900-1500 orders,” he says.

Another native German speaker but from neighboring Austria, Bierbiesl Chef/owner Bernhard Mairinger worked with Eugen Goetz, a master German sausage maker at Continental Sausage. He helped to perfect his recipes for a couple of special Austrian sausages. “Sausages are a bundle of flavor. One bite can be as rich and flavorful as a whole dish. It is an art because mastering the balance between spices, fat, liquid and seasoning is not something everyone is gifted with,” he says. “I think the best deal in town is our sausage sampler. It easily feeds two and you get five different sausages with two mustards, fresh horseradish, sauerkraut and a pretzel bread basket for only $28!” Mairinger says.

Wild Goose Tavern in Costa Mesa has an exotic selection of sausages including a Kobe Dog, Wild Boar, and Chicken Mole. Accompaniments such as tomato chutney, roasted beet relish, fried quail egg, and caramelized fennel also make the menu. On the Cajun Swamp, Andouille sausage is topped with buttered rock shrimp gumbo. Sweet Asian slaw, Thai peanut sauce and crispy wontons dress the wild boar sausage sandwich.

Wurstküche in Downtown LA and Venice, serves sausage sandwiches and Belgian fries. Choices multiply here with classic, gourmet and exotic sausages; toppings and mustards. Besides the classic bratwurst and bockwurst, mango jalapeño chicken and turkey, Filipino Maharlika sweet pork and Kielbasa also make the gourmet category. Exotics include buffalo, beef & pork chipotle peppers; duck and bacon with jalapeno peppers, hickory smoked crocodile and pork; and pheasant with herbs de Provence.

With so many to choose from, it’s no wonder that we’re gobbling these luscious bundles of meat in such great amounts. There are even vegetarian options that rival traditional meat sausages in palate Sausage from Bierbiesl

appeal. (See page 8.)

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

17

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

CONDIMENT NATION AMERICANS ARE MARKED BY THEIR LOVE AFFAIR with ketchup, ranch dressing and barbeque sauce; tzatziki lathered gyros bring thoughts of Greece to mind; Belgian frites with boundless options of sauce and the mish mash of ketchup and mayonnaise also known as fry sauce, rot weiss, and salsa rosa can be found in England, Germany and Spain respectively. When in North Africa, you’ll find harissa (a Tunisian hot chili sauce) and there is no escaping soy sauce in Asia.

Some interesting condiments can be found smeared between two pieces of bread and a hot dog or sausage; a pile of deli shaved meat or a hamburger patty. There are the usual oldies but goodies like mustard and mayonnaise and then there are the bacon marmalades and chorizo mayos of the bun world – the condiments that keep our palates guessing and our imaginations running wild. A hodgepodge of innovative takes on ketchup, aioli, relish, hot sauce and more moonlight menus of upscale dining destinations and fast casual eateries.

At LinX in Orange, you can pair your artisan sausage with a choice of 16 house-made condiments crafted daily ranging from Curry Ketchup to Bacon Blue Cheese Aioli. The Fritesaus made with lemon aioli, capers, fresh herbs and a hint of mustard and ketchup can be used for dipping the hand-cut organic russet potatoes or as topping on your custom ordered LinX dog. Two condiments rule the best seller race at LinX: Bacon Blue Cheese Aioli (applewood smoked bacon and Pt. Reyes blue cheese) and Chorizo Mayo (Mexican pork chorizo and fresh squeezed lime juice).

Both were created with a desire to combine familiar flavors in a manner that most have not previously tried.

Some stick to the basics – using certain condiments on particular foods and shy away from experimenting.

Only the extreme dares the faux pas of carrying their favorite condiment in their purse. Others play tetris in the fridge to conceal it from friends and will put it on almost anything whether at breakfast, lunch or dinner.

For the die-hard addicts a mere packet or dipping sized serving just won’t do. Beachwood BBQ in Seal Beach, taco asylum in Costa Mesa, Memphis Café in Costa Mesa and Mozambique in Laguna Beach offer a “condiments anonymous” of sorts. To show their support, they offer bottles of their sauces for purchase.

Beachwood BBQ has perfected four barbeque sauces that idealize the meeting of fork and pork. In fact, their sauces for order aren’t even shown on the menu. Quality in conjunction with word of mouth throws to the wayside any need for advertising. For $6, you can purchase a 16 ounce bottle of sweet, spicy, mustard or vinegar barbeque sauce. For $4, you have the same choices of sauce but instead of a bottle, the sauce comes in a plastic container. The minimally invasive investment in the bottle is profitable to your pocket and the environment – the next time you feel like staining your white shirt with finger licking ribs, you can bring your bottle back and get it refilled with your favorite sauce for $4.

At taco asylum you can get a 5 ounce bottle of made-from-scratch hot sauce for $9 and pocket change.

Sauces regularly available include Chef Daniel’s Cayenne, Red Savina and Ghost Chili. Other sauces that have beckoned sweat to the foreheads of patrons include the Trinidad Scorpion and the Keeper of the Asylum which is crafted from green serrano pepper, cucumber and champagne vinegar.

The ambiance of Memphis Café can lend itself to being interpreted as a fine dining spot but the barbeque stained fingers leaving the restaurant beg to differ. Southern home-style cooking is served with a platter of hospitality and an ocean of their original barbeque sauce. Perfection takes time and patience - Memphis makes their sauce in small batches and fancies it a compliment for smoked chicken, ribs, brisket and even grilled fish and vegetables. Pull out your $5.95 fast - the Original Memphis BBQ Sauce is a quick seller.

Peri peri sauce (also known as piri piri sauce) is Portuguese in origin, widely used in South Africa and is made with the hot bird’s eye chili pepper. Mozambique bottles and sells the sauce as a medium heat dipping sauce made with a combination of roasted tomatoes, garlic, citrus, apple cider vinegar, fresh herbs and bird’s eye chili pepper. For $6 you can use the 12 ounce bottle on shellfish, meat and poultry.

Ketchup lovers come one come all. Soak your fries in White Truffle Ketchup at American Junkie Newport Beach and enjoy Ketchup Leather (dehydrated ketchup) at Plan Check in Los Angeles.

For those willing to eat outside the lines, Plan Check serves Dynamite Sauce. Made with masago capelin roe, soy sauce, béchamel sauce, sriracha, mayonnaise, salt and pepper.

Susan Feniger at her namesake eatery in Hollywood pairs the specialty of Kyushu, Japan with an American classic – the cheeseburger. Instead of using run of the mill mayonnaise, her Street Cheeseburger gets a slathering of yuzo kosho (a Japanese seasoning that is the fermented product of chili peppers, salt and yuzo fruit) mayonnaise.

At the heart of every meal is a condiment that gives it that extra umph.

Go forth. Lick your fingers and double dip (but only if you get permission).

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PROFI

F E AT U R E : L ’ E N T R E´ E

LE

*

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SPO

BRO ADL EAF

RED B

Venison and Fries at Ty’s “JUMPING OFF THE DEEP END” IS AN EXPRESSION THAT OWNER SCOTT WHITEHEAD OF TY’S BURGER HOUSE IN OCEANSIDE, CA DOES EVERY DAY. With no prior restaurant experience (unless you count backyard grilling and watching Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives), the die-hard surfer and his son Tyler opened Ty’s Burger House in 2010 with the hopes that they could provide Oceansiders with a local spot to grab a well crafted hamburger with character and flavor.

Scott attributes the restaurant’s success to the quality of his food and the power of word-of-mouth advertising. He doesn’t own a computer nor does his restaurant have a website—an unconventional route for a modern day restaurateur. “I surf in the morning and flip burgers in the afternoon. I’m going to get you back here because of the food, not because of any marketing,” says the go-with-the-flow owner.

At Ty’s Burger House (known colloquially as simply ‘Burger House’) an air of ease resonates amongst staff and patrons alike. You can enjoy your burger inside amongst surfing décor or outside on the quaint, plant laden patio. The menu is the product of backyard tasting sessions and was approved by Scott’s family and friends. With the exception of the addition of wild game burgers, it has remained the same since opening. Scott remarks, “I want to keep a simple menu. What I do sell, I have tried my hardest to perfect.”

Best sellers include the California Burger (Tyler Whitehead’s take on California burritos), the Bacon Bleu Cheese Burger, the Jalapeno Burger and the Western Burger, which all come with a choice of either a 1/2 pound or 1/3 pound patty. To accommodate for the varied tastes of the military, Scott introduced wild game burgers to his menu. “We’re a big military town. A lot of people are from hunting states. I thought ‘Why not try to bring a little bit of home to here?’” Offerings include Open Range Grass Fed Beef, Buffalo, Kangaroo, Venison, Wild Boar, and Elk. “The wild game burgers have a more distinct taste,” says Scott.

The Cervena venison is served with poached pears in red wine, mushrooms, bacon, lettuce and tomato; the kangaroo is complete with creamed horseradish sauce, lettuce, tomato, red onion and pickle; and the elk

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is topped with garlic aioli sauce, lettuce, tomato, red onion and pickle. Prices for the 1/2 pound patty,

Ty’s Burger House

kangaroo, venison and elk burgers range from $9 to $11 and come with your choice of fries, sweet potato

515 Mission Ave

fries, onion rings or side salad.

Oceanside, CA 92054

As long as he is able to make his customers happy and catch a few waves, Scott feels he has achieved

(760) 757-5890

his goals. “I enjoy what I do, so I just take everything as it comes. I try and get the restaurant open on

Mon-Fri 11am - 9pm

time every day and let things flow. I surf, make burgers and enjoy hanging out with my son.”

WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A GOOD BURGER? I love hamburgers, but I would not classify myself as a burger “snob.”

I’ll order a burger just about anywhere and the beer selection is almost as important as the burger. My favorite “fast food” burger is In N’ Out and my favorite restaurant style burger is the Baja Burger at Lazy Dog. My favorite homemade burger is made at my parents’ house because the meat is always smaller than the bun: juicy and delicious.

WHAT MAKES IT YOUR FAVORITE? The In N’ Out burger or any other fast food burger is all about the American cheese. A restaurant quality burger is all about the correct doneness and quality of beef; I like a juicy, medium-rare

Q&A with Chef Gabriel Caliendo

burger with lots of seasoning. What I like about the meat being smaller than the bun is that you know it is hand formed and almost impossible to overcook the fat patty.

WHAT TOPPINGS AND CONDIMENTS DO YOU LIKE? I’m mostly a purist: ketchup, mustard, & LTOP (lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle), but I really love the jalapeño aioli, jack cheese, ortega chilies and guacamole on the Baja Burger.

WHICH BEVERAGE BEST ACCOMPANIES? Beer. Beer. Beer. With things like burgers and tacos I like a beer I can drink quickly and have more than one—a Kolsch, Pale Ale or Czech Lager.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE STORE BOUGHT KETCHUP? MUSTARD? I always buy Heinz Ketchup and Grey Poupon Dijon mustard.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE SANDWICH(ES)? IF SO WHICH? My favorite all time sandwich is a NY style mixed meat sub with chopped up pepperoncinis and Italian dressing, the Jerry special at my parents’ deli in Mission Viejo is my all time “fave.” I've been eating it for over 30 years.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE BREADS OR BUN TYPES FOR A BURGER, DOG OR SANDWICH? I like a brioche bun for a hamburger, as is all the rage, but my favorite is a potato bun. Hands down I love King’s Hawaiian rolls for hot dogs (kind of like a lobster roll thing). I love a good rye bread for pastrami and the king of sandwich breads is crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside—French baguette roll.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

19

THE BIZ: FRONT OF THE HOUSE

BREAD for Burgers and Sandwiches To me, bread is the most important element to a sandwich or burger. Bread gives the first impression. It tells me how important the ingredients are to the maker. When a chef chooses a beautiful artisan bread for his/her dish, I know the insides will be of equal quality. There are three main factors to consider when deciding which bread to use.

1. Taste: You want the bread to compliment, not overpower, the insides. For example, if you have a meat that is especially fatty and tasty, such as Kobe, you need a type of bread that can stand up to it in taste but won’t knock it over. A brioche bun works beautifully in this case. The light, buttery flaky crumb will add nicely to the richness of the meat without taking anything away. Our Campagne bread is a hearty French country bread with a dense, slightly sour, moist crumb and a thick crust. This bread really needs its meat to pack a punch.

A good chef friend of mine recently made me the most amazing sandwich: homemade tongue pastrami on sliced Campagne bread. The subtle rye flour in this bread really complimented the flavor of the pastrami while letting its flavor shine!

2. Texture: Equally as important is the texture of the bread. Contrast is what you are after here. If you have a softer inside like a grilled fish or a chicken salad, soft bread will turn the sandwich into mush. Use a fermented French roll or a Ciabatta bun. These options will give you a light crumb and crispy crust with enough texture to contrast the filling without sending it flying out the sides!

BREAD ARTISAN BAKERY

Burgers are hearty and need a firm structure but too much bread can be filling. A good bun will have a slight crust with a soft crumb. We offer a variety of buns, the standards being Brioche, Mock-Brioche (we call it Bagnat), Potato and Whole Grain. Ciabatta is a nice alternative to a traditional bun for a hearty burger. Our friends at Brussels Bistro use a Ciabatta Square for their delicious burger.

BORN AND RAISED IN ORANGE COUNTY, I attended high school in Laguna Beach and earned a

3. Appearance: When considering a bread for your burger or sandwich always consider its presentation. If

degree in Economics from UCLA. My father was

your intent is a sleek, modern dish then a brioche bun or roll with its shiny amber crust would be a great

Italian and needless to say food has always been an

choice. If you are going for a rustic appeal, an artisan sliced bread in a plain or grainy texture would be

integral part of our family. Coming home from school

my choice. My current favorite sandwich bread is our Multi Grain Rustic Ciabatta. We make it in Petit

meant

be

Pains, Rolls and Baguettes. The mix of flax, sesame and other grains gives this bread a slight sweetness

cooking–marinara sauce, chile verde, roasted

that pairs incredibly well with proteins and veggies. It has a moist airy crumb and crispy crust - toasted

peppers-from scratch, fresh ingredients and always

and smeared with Avocado and Salt is breakfast perfection!

looking

forward

to

what

would

homemade. I love to make food, eat food and read

Go for something that you may not normally choose the next time you are looking for a sandwich or

about food. In my teens I worked as a hostess,

burger bread. Keep it simple while considering taste, texture and appearance of your final dish and you

waitress, manager, caterer, catering sales person

will have a winner!

and party planner. One day while catering a party in Coto de Caza in the early 90s we ran out of bread. I went to every nearby (and not so nearby) market and

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couldn’t find a decent bread to serve. A few years

949-429-5301

later my father started Breads n’ Spreads and

www.breadartisanbakery.com

brought old world style artisan bread to Orange County. Unfortunately, my father passed away too soon to see his dreams of artisan foods in Orange County explode! In 2008, after a 12 year career in advertising, I jumped into the world of bread and vowed to continue his dream. BREAD Artisan Bakery was born in October 2010. We have been blessed with amazing baking talent and an incredible group of clients. Everyday we strive to make the best, all natural, old world bread possible. — Jonnie Peckham

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THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE

MIGHTY MICRO GREENS GREENS ARE A FRESH AND EASY ADDITION TO SANDWICHES, SAUSAGES, HOT DOGS AND HAMBURGERS. The greens on our list have mighty flavor profiles that stand up to the meat, cheeses

1.

and condiments that you’ll find stacked between buns. Fresh Origin’s R&D Chef Kelly Sasuga has rounded up the top 10 greens that will make your next meal pop with color and distinct flavors. The next time you’re grilling a burger or crafting a sandwich, try layering it with one of the following greens:

2.

SAUSAGE 1. Micro Mustard Dijon: micro with light green leaves and a snappy personality; tastes like spicy Dijon Mustard.

2. Petite Mustard Mix: mixture of Mustard Red, Mustard Red Frill, Mustard Green Frill, Mizuna, Pak Choy and Pak Choy Red; layers of flavor: from

3.

intense, spicy mustard to sweet and earthy.

HOT DOG 3. Micro Chives: small thin needle-like leaves with

5.

tiny black seeds attached; strong chive flavor and aroma.

4. Petite Watercress Red: dark maroon leaves with

4.

green veins; strong peppery, tangy bite.

HAMBURGER 5. Micro Arugula: heart-shaped brightly colored green leafs; intense nutty, spicy flavor.

6. Micro Radish Ruby: royal dark purple leaves on matching purple colored stems; fresh and spicy radish flavor.

7. Petite Spinach Sweet Red: arrow-shaped dark green leaves with red veins; low acidity, sweet and

7.

succulent with a nutty taste.

6.

SANDWICH 8. Micro Basil Mix: combination of nine different delicious basils; flavors of anise, cinnamon, clove, Italian, nutmeg, and lemon.

9. Micro Tarragon: deep green, tender, long leaves;

9.

fresh licorice flavor.

10. Petite Arugula Slyvetta (also known as Wild Arugula): tender green jagged-edged leaves; spicy flavor, even more concentrated than regular arugula.

10.

8.

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

21

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

Old World Sausage, New World Success

S

ausage making is an art that requires a thorough knowledge of meat, patience for tedious bouts of trial and error and a love for crafting perfection. In order to reach his goal of becoming the most forward thinking sausage company in the country, Patrick

by Tiffany Haslacker

Chef Paddy builds strong relationships with his customers like Chef Scott Brandon (on the right) at Linx. www.europasausages.com

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www.great-taste.net | SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013

“Paddy” Glennon, Chef and Owner of Europa Specialty Sausages, must implement the aforementioned to the tee.

Paddy couldn’t have chosen a more suitable place to build his sausage empire.

According to the National Hot Dog & Sausage Council, Los Angeles County consumes the most sausage per capita than any other city in the United States.

Paddy endeavors to abolish the notion that sausage is merely an unhealthy filler in a cheap meal. At the heart of this goal, you will find a young man who spent 6 years traveling in Europe garnering an impressive tenure and building an exhaustive insight of charcuterie that aided him in establishing Europa Specialty Sausages in 2006.

A scientist of sorts, Paddy experiments with 200 pound batches of meat by way of different formulas. In order to attain the ideal grind (graininess should be avoided), snappy casing (the mark of a quality link) and flavor of any particular sausage, keen attention must be paid to levels of salt, liquid, protein and fat content. Europa sausages are on average 20% leaner than many other artisan sausages on the market.

They contain a maximum of 28% fat, moderate levels of salt (2%) and are made with a natural lamb casing. “Salt is not in our product to make it last on the shelf,” says Glennon. In addition, Paddy strays far from the use of MSG, BHT, artificial flavors and fillers.

In conjunction with his adherence to tried and true formulas, Paddy is in an incessant state of experimentation. The sky

is the limit for this decorated chef - he sees no end to the amount of one of-a-kind sausages that he will create as long as he can introduce them into a viable market (chicken sausages lead in mass appeal) and win the up-hill battle with USDA labeling requirements. Upon the creation of a new sausage, (the uber spice and garlic laden Danger Dog is his latest success), Paddy filters a selection through his network of chefs and distributors, thus, Europa sausage receives the seal of approval from knowledgeable industry professionals long before it hits the plates of patrons. His dedication has earned him the allegiance of many local establishments such as Old Vine Café in Costa Mesa and LinX in Orange. “Europa Specialty Sausages are by far the most delicious tasting, highest quality and freshest sausages we have ever come across, period,” says Scott Brandon of LinX. Rather than blindly handing over the sausages that he so diligently toils over, Paddy has created a concept called “Linkology” that gives an interactive edge to his product. “Linkology is the finishing of the link, what you do with it once it’s done and before if meets the mouth,” says Glennon. Using social media as a platform, Paddy plans to start a modern sausage movement by teaching individuals how to pair and serve sausage. This selfproclaimed linkologist plans on charging full steam ahead until Europa sausage becomes a lead certified manufacturing facility.

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Fashionably Old Fashioned

F

or The Blind Pig menu, I used classics as my inspiration.

Cocktails are a uniquely American invention and in the 19th century bartending was considered a serious profession

you’re in the mood for — gin, vodka or tequila and the sweetener can be as familiar or obscure as you want to get.

Finally, the variety of bitters available these days is as diverse as any time in history and with no other ingredient can you afford a

Cocktails are a uniquely American invention and in the 19th century bartending was considered a serious profession and craft.

by Gabrielle Dion Gabrielle Dion has been bartending in Orange County for nearly a decade and has her finger on the pulse of the up and coming craft cocktail scene. Her passion for her craft has taken her to some of the best bars in New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, Portland and Spain. Through her travels, extensive reading of cocktail books and meeting and talking with other established bar experts, she developed her foundation of classic cocktail history. In 2010, Gabrielle was named Most Inspired Bartender Orange County by GQ Magazine and Bombay Sapphire. Gabrielle is on the board of the Orange County Bartender’s Cabinet, and in 2012 was named Best Bartender in Orange County by the OC Weekly.

and craft. Recipes dating as far back as the early 1800s are classics for a reason and have stood the test of time, partly because they are simple. I wanted to highlight simplicity and honorably reinterpret the ideas of our cocktail forefathers by putting our twist on them.

In terms of creating drinks, there are many avenues to explore when creating your own twist on a classic. First, you can switch out sweeteners, e.g., change simple syrup to honey. You can substitute a liqueur in place of a sweetener or change the kind of bitters. For simplicity’s sake, let’s take an Old Fashioned, staying true to the original spirit, bitters, sugar and water recipe. You can get really creative here, swapping out any of the first three ingredients. The spirit can be whatever

drink with such a level of complexity in just a few dashes. Proportions should be: two ounces for your choice of spirit, 1/2 an ounce for a liqueur or one barspoon for syrup, and roughly two dashes of bitters (depending on the potency). A properly crafted drink should have roughly 25% water dilution due to the chilling of the drink with ice. For a drink like the Old Fashioned, the only action required is stirring, which is the least vigorous method used to leave the spirit with its inherent silkiness. Finally, add a peel of lemon, orange or grapefruit and your cocktail is ready to be enjoyed. As my last note — I always change the name of my new creation. One of my biggest pet peeves is ordering a classic at a bar and getting a totally different rendition!

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2013 | great taste

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