Great Taste Magazine 2014 Nov/Dec Issue.

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 271 Tucson, AZ

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT Teri Williams Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net

TERI’S TAKE t’s hard to imagine that another year has passed and that we’re all working on that holiday spirit. Holidays at my house growing up included snow, at least we prayed for it, tons of parties and guests and best of all, the entire family gathering around the dinner table and sitting for hours having fun. Of course, there were times that the kids begged to “be excused” from the table but most of the time everyone was content sharing camaraderie, a great dinner and tradition.

Everyone did their part to make the best meal of the year and every year new traditions were born.

Crazy traditions included cousin Rick doing the twist with Nanna, skating at the neighbors, and Benny Hill impersonations from Gramps.

Dinner traditions were the best ones; old ones that are carried on and new ones being created every year at my house. Aunt Agnes made the stuffing, Aunt Tina made the punch and now Lea makes the Jack Daniels cranberries and yes, like the toasted slivered almonds for the salad, usually the first batch gets burned.

My holiday advice; celebrate every day that you have with family and friends, keep creating traditions and don't burn the cranberries.

MORE THAN CHEFS

I

INSIDE 8 SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES 8 NEW TALENT

Content

THE BIZ 2 2 SOMMELIER PERSPECTIVE Regional Classics

Meet the new faces behind the line.

24

BEVERAGES Raising the Bar: The Mixing Revolution

TRENDS 1 0 LATER BABY

25

OPERATIONS Equity Crowdfunding

Check out these fine examples of “nite bite” menus here to satisfy your afterhours cravings.

F E AT U R E S 1 2 FAST CASUAL ON THE RISE The increasingly popular “fast-fine” is slowly bridging the gap.

19

D E PA RT M E N T S 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH 6 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 1 0 SPICE RACK 1 1 SUR LE MENU RECIPES 1 2 SALMON SALAD 2 1 CHINOIS AHI TUNA SALAD 2 4 TRADITIONAL MAI TAI

MEET OUR CHEF DE CUISINE Chef Eddie Garcia

On The Cover The Skuna Bay Salmon Salad from the Chef Eddie Garcia of the Silver Trumpet Restaurant and Bar features fresh kale leaves and savory charbroiled Skuna Bay salmon from British Columbia, Canada tossed with semi-sweet English peas and Spanish onion. The shaved fennel and crisp asparagus add a refreshing crunch to the textural quality of the salad, which is balanced with the distinct salty flavor of the sliced black olives. Fingerling potatoes add a final touch and the entire dish is complete with the addition of a delectable shallot vinaigrette. See which local restaurants offer similar dishes in Sur Le Menu on page 11 and read Chef Garcia’s article on page 19. Photo by Michael Rutt.

}

Out of the kitchen and into the writer’s chair, these talented chefs share their expertise with us as our Culinary Advisors.

GABRIEL CALIENDO

LINDSAY SMITH-ROSALES

Corporate Executive Chef

Chef/Proprietor

Lazy Dog Restaurant

Nirvana Grille

and Bar

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

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INSIDE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Rachel Allan Chef Katie Averill Chef Gabriel Caliendo Jรถrn (Joey) Kleinhans Dassah Maketa Gil Michel-Garcia Chef Lindsay Smith-Rosales James Wood

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

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INSIDE

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NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

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INSIDE

Cheese Pick of the Month BELLWETHER PEPATO BELLWETHER FARMS, SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA ORIGINATED IN THE YEAR 1992 and remained the state’s only sheep dairy until 2004. Bellwether Pepato consists of raw sheep milk, traditional rennet, cultures, black peppercorn, and salt. The velvety white natural rind is edible and has an earthy, umami like flavor with a semi-firm texture. Studded with whole peppercorns, Pepato is a raw, semi-soft sheep milk cheese with a flaky yet creamy consistency. After being aged a minimum of sixty days, Pepato is salty with tangy citrus flavors that are nicely balanced by the heat of the peppercorns.

Pepato is a great addition for a cheeseboard or shaved on top of a salad or pasta. It can also be quite scrumptious when used in ravioli or gnocchi. A good Pinot Noir brings out the best flavors within the Pepato, but if you like white wine try it with a wine that has a little sweetness such as an off-dry

PRODUCE

PICK

OF THE MONTH

Riesling or Rose to offset the spiciness. For more information on the Bellwether Pepato cheese or Bellwether Farms and other cheese, please contact your Fresh Point representative.

FROG HALLOW FARM WARREN PEAR DISCOVERED BY THOMAS OSCAR WARREN growing outside of a post office in Hattiesburg, Mississippi, the Warren Pear of Frog Hollow Farms is a favorite pear amongst chefs, including Alice Waters of Chez Panisse. To find the “Post Office pear” growing naturally only adds to its mystery, as most farmers consider it too difficult to grow and transport in mass quantities due to its soft texture.

Unique in its lack of grittiness compared to other pear varieties, the Warren Pear has what it described as a “classic European texture” and a smooth, creamy flesh.

Harvested in the late summer months, the Warren pear is delightfully sweet and juicy, making it perfect for eating fresh or baking in a pie or tart. Rebecca Courchesne of Frog Hollow Farms recommends eating the pears sliced on a piece of sourdough toast with blue castello cheese or tossed in a salad with champagne vinaigrette. The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. www.theproducehunter.com

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Happy Holidays from Our Famil Family F amily to Yours amily Yours As your exclusive purveyor of Skuna Bay Salmon, we're ready to help you celebrate the season; your Santa Monica Seafood Sales Representative has plenty of other ideas to keep things festive, just give them a call!

www.santamonicaseafood.com .santamonicaseafood.com | 800.969.8862 | Like “smseafood” on Facebook!

Facebook!

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

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INSIDE

Sustainable Practices

New Talent

by Chef Lindsay Smith-Rosales

additional wrapping like paper towels and toilet paper. They can be installed as needed and stored in the original box to keep clean.

The plastic and paper in each boxed 200 rolls leads to more waste and trash, plus may even

CHEF BRIAN DROSENOS JOINED ZIMZALA IN OCTOBER 2014

cost more.

2. Find a way to recycle after unpacking your deliveries, with front and back-of-house breakage. a. We all have large amounts of “trash” like cardboard, plastic and other recyclables. It is critical, if allowed, to have separate recycling bins outside your operation for sorting. Many local companies will pick up weekly. You will be making a huge impact on the environment and

even better news, you will likely get

money back that you are otherwise throwing away! We separate all glass, crv glass, tin, plastic and cardboard.

DEFINE YOUR SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES. It’s not

b. We also reuse all our paper menus by printing

just buying an organic product, sustainable seafood

both sides. You can even use it later as a liner

or local goods, it is also operational practices.

for under soups and desserts! You have then

Reduce, Reuse & Recycle; do you practice the rules?

used the paper twice so supply costs are less,

Take small steps in your operation to be more

and then you are using it a third time showing

“green” and allow sustainability to be our culture

your green efforts to your guest. Use all

Brian Drosenos, the new Executive Chef at Zimzala

and not just the trend that we use to lure customers

smaller paper that cannot be printed on for

Restaurant, a 2002 graduate of the Florida Culinary

into the restaurant.

notepads for the hostess and servers.

We are all imperfect but everyday individually

Institute has coast-to-coast experience in hotel restaurants including JW Marriott, The Ritz-Carlton,

HERE ARE A FEW METHODS THAT I FIND USEFUL

and as a company we can strive to make a

Noble House, The Ventana Inn and Spa, PGA

FOR CREATING LESS WASTE:

difference. Don’t put it off “till tomorrow”. Global

National Resort and Spa and InterContinental. Now,

1. Buy products that have the least processing and packaging. a. Prep

in-house.

Buy

real

food

he has arrived at the beautiful Zimzala Restaurant, a vibrant dining destination at The Shorebreak

without

waste creators in the hospitality industry, need to

Hotel in Huntington Beach. Previously, Drosenos

additives. Peel a box of potatoes that may

put practices into place that will make a global

was the senior Sous Chef at the luxurious JW

otherwise have come in a plastic pale with

impact for ourselves now, but more importantly,

Marriott and The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, at LA Live.

citric acid added to keep from turning brown,

pave the way for our children and give them the

Prior to that, he was the Executive Chef at the

and store in ice water to keep fresh.

opportunity to enjoy this beautiful planet before

oceanfront Aquarius Restaurant in the Santa Cruz

we destroy it.

Dream Inn.

b. Buy paper products that don’t come with

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warming, climate change and the planet as a whole are all driven by consumerism. We, as large

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INSIDE

CHEF JEFFREY BOULLT MOVED BACK TO ORANGE COUNTY FROM BRENTWOOD IN JUNE 2014

CHEF CAMRON WOODS MOVED FROM SAN DIEGO TO ORANGE COUNTY IN APRIL 2014 Chef Camron Woods has been designing everything from restaurant concepts to menus to ready the launch of Harvest at The Ranch at Laguna Beach expected in early-mid 2015.

A native of Charleston, SC, Woods has spent many years fine-tuning his culinary talents at several restaurants and high-end resorts. Most recently: The Grand Del Mar in San Diego, Four Seasons in the Bahamas and Atlanta.

Drawing on years of luxury dining experience, Chef Camron strives to create an experience that leaves you wanting for nothing, but without pretension.

Jeffrey Boullt was Jason Quinn’s Sous Chef at

The craft and artisan nature of the food and beverage program will be on

Playground, and loved his job but when SOCIAL

display throughout the property. With a .5+ acre farm on site, ingredients

Costa Mesa Owner Andrew Dorsey approached him

could not be fresher. The food will be approachable and comfortable in

about heading up his own kitchen, he couldn’t

concept, but sophisticated in execution. The cuisine will be Regional: American meets California.

CHEF SHIRLEY CHUNG MOVED FROM LAS VEGAS TO ORANGE COUNTY IN SEPTEMBER 2014 The mastermind behind the menu of modern Chinese cuisine at TWENTY EIGHT set to open November 2014 is Executive Chef & Partner Shirley Chung, best known from Season 11 of Top Chef New Orleans. Her experience as a “top chef” extends far beyond her television debut. Prior to her television rise to fame, she held the Executive Chef position at China Poblano by Jose Andres. While working at China Poblano, she fell in love with Mexican cuisine and learned more about her own heritage and perfecting her skill for Chinese cuisine.

Born and raised in Beijing, China, Chef Shirley is trained in classic French and Italian cuisine, and has worked and opened restaurants for Thomas Keller, Guy Savoy and Mario Batali.

According to Chef Shirley, "I always knew that my first restaurant would be on the West Coast - either Las Vegas or California, since I grew up in California and the refuse. He always wanted to work with Suzanne

majority of my culinary career has been spent in Vegas.

Goin in LA and figured the only time he would have

When I met my Partner in Twenty Eight, Stacie Tran, we

a chance to do so would be before opening his new

just clicked, and once she showed me around OC, I fell

venture in OC. He left Playground, worked with

in love. Orange County has many Asian restaurants, so

Suzanne at Tavern in Brentwood for 6 months as

folks already understand and love the flavors we intend to

Sous Chef, and now has opened SOCIAL Costa

present, so it will be exciting to give them a culinary

Mesa.

experience with a fresh, modern approach."

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

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INSIDE

The Spice Rack

by Chef Gabriel Caliendo

CHAI SPICES THE HOLIDAYS AND COOLER WEATHER ARE JUST AROUND THE CORNER. During this period of time, American traditions in food always include several of the key ingredients included in Chai tea flavorings. Let’s take a look at Chai Tea spices this time around in the Spice Rack. It may just give you a new idea for that holiday meal.

“Chai” is the generic word used for “tea” in several cultures. The drink that we now know in the USA is actually referred to as Chai Masala Tea in Asia, and as you may have guessed, the spices used in Chai Masala (aka Chai Tea) come from India. Many are also widely used in Indian cuisine.

Three of the main ingredients are common to Americans and used in many of our holiday foods: cinnamon, cloves and ginger (think gingerbread cookies). The other ingredients that round out the common Chai Masala recipes are star anise, peppercorn, fennel, cardamom, and of course, black tea leaves. These ingredients are steeped in hot water and then sweetened with sugar and milk.

Indian history shows that Chai Masala Tea was often used as a remedy for calming the body. Ayurveda (the Ancient Hindu healing system) understood that the spices had various remedies and could regenerate and cleanse the body. We know now that the combination of Chai Masala is very high in antioxidants which may lower blood pressure and cholesterol.

Lazy Dog Restaurants serves a rotating seasonal mason jar adult beverage. Currently, it’s a Spiced Rum Chai Latte (pictured above), featuring a made-from-scratch Chai Seasoning blend steeped with Organic Black tea. We serve it chilled (since California winters are mild at best) with a sweetened coconut milk. Drinking this helps soothe the body and mind from the stresses of the holidays and everyday life. It regenerates the soul so you can enjoy these special times with friends and family. Happy Holidays to you and yours!

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digital

catalog

advertising

web

studio

location

949-322-7590 www.michaelrutt.com

D AV I TA . C O M

SUR LE MENU

Salmon SMOKING, GRILLING, BAKING, SAUTÉING, POACHING, AND SLICING IT RAW ARE ONLY A FEW METHODS USED TO PREPARE SALMON. Every chef has their preferred type of salmon, based on where it grew, where it was caught, whether it was farmed and what it was fed, what age it is, what color it is or whether fresh or frozen. Do you list a farm specific “brand” on your menus? Don't forget sustainability when making your choices. Seafood Watch of the Monterrey Aquarium ranks each species into 4 groups: Best Choice, Good Alternative, Avoid and Unranked but all reputable seafood vendors will be able to tell you where their products fall in the scope of sustainable sourcing. Whether you are looking for an appetizer, or a main dish we've got you covered for menu ideas, beautiful presentations, approachable price points and a delicious recipe.

1

3

2

4

1

2

3

6

5

4

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HAVEN GASTRO PUB

SCOTT’S SEAFOOD

THE RANCH

HARLOW'S FINE

SOCIAL COSTA MESA

TAPS FISH HOUSE

Chef Craig Brady

Chef Michael Doctulero

Chef Michael Rossi

CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Chef Jeffrey Boullt

Chef Manny Gonzalez

Beet cured salmon:

Cured gravlax:

Skuna Bay craft raised

Chef Aaron Anderson

Salmon tartare:

Achiote-marinated

dill yogurt, pickled

fresh salmon with

salmon: black quinoa,

Steelhead salmon:

whipped creme fraiche,

salmon: roasted poblano

beets preserve,

toasted fennel aioli,

California almonds,

fregola succotash,

crispy bread and soft

tamale, chayote, roasted

lemon-shallot dressing,

herb oil, green capers,

vine-dried grapes and

golden raisins, tangerine

herbs. Photo by Austin

corn, charred onions

fennel and sorrel.

and red onion.

tangerine nage.

and asparagus.

Trask

and tomatillo.

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www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

SUR LE MENU

SALMON SALAD Serves 2 1

Skuna Bay Salmon - sear and finished in oven cooked medium

8 oz

Kale - medium chop and washed

2 oz

Fennel - thinly sliced

3 oz

Peas - marinated in thyme, garlic, and olive oil

6

Pencil Asparagus - grilled served warm

3

Fingerling Potatoes - roasted cooled and cut in half

LEMON VINAIGRETTE 1/2 t

Lemon zest - finely grated

2T

Lemon juice - freshly squeezed

1t

Sugar

1/2 t

Dijon mustard

1/4 t

Fine sea salt, or to taste

3-4 T

Extra-virgin olive oil Black pepper to taste - freshly ground

PREP In stainless steel bowl add all vinaigrette ingredients except oil mix together then slowly add oil to emulsify. Lightly dress the greens and plate.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

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TRENDS

Later Baby!

DRINKS AND LATE NIGHT SNACKS AREN'T ALWAYS EASY TO FIND IN ORANGE COUNTY AS OUR SIDEWALKS ROLL UP EARLY. According to a study conducted by the National Bureau of Economic Resources, one in eight American workers put in more than 55 hours of work per week so it's not just foodservice workers that

are

looking

for

later

evening

dining

destinations. These additional hours are causing Americans to work later hours, which inevitably means more late-night dining.

“Our Guests work long hours and there are limited options for exceptional offerings later in the evening,” said Skip Fox, President of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar. “With our new latenight 8 for $9 ‘til 10p.m., Guests can decompress in a relaxing and comfortable setting and enjoy quality food and cocktail items.”

More and more local restaurants are expanding the kitchen hours so that you can get something to eat with your cocktail.

Here are just a few local deals. Check out our website for a full listing of after 9 dining

Octopus “A la Blancha” Taco Photo credit: shescookin.com

alternatives in your neighborhood.

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN LATE NIGHT — LAGUNA BEACH 10 PM to midnight Prices below are 50% off the regular rate SMALL PLATES Oysters 1/2 Doz, selection of east & west coast, oysters on the 1/2 shell, classic mignonette 7 Driftwood Fries Hand-cut Kennebec potatoes, herb aioli, house made ketchup 4.50 Wild Pickled Gulf Shrimp Fennel, Persian cucumber, heirloom tomato, rainbow carrot kumquats, cocktail sauce 6.50 Octopus “A la Blancha” Taco Mexican wild shrimp, jicama-cilantro, avocado mousse, tomato-pineapple chutney 7 Summer Squash Blossoms Stuffed with bellwether farms ricotta, chunky heirloom tomatoes sauce, mint 5.50 Buttermilk Fried Soft-Shell Crab Green papaya slaw, spicy papaya seed dipping sauce 6.50 Today’s Selection of Cured Meats and Accompaniments 9 Today’s selection of Domestic Cheeses and Accompaniments 9

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TRENDS

MATADOR CANTINA — FULLERTON 10 PM to midnight Lobster Lettuce Wraps LATE NIGHT MENU $5 EACH Sweet Papas Fritas

FASHIONABLY LATE AT FLEMING’S

Cantina Rolls Street Dogs Cheese Quesadilla Matador Taco - Chicken, Steak, or Carnitas Spicy Wings

Daily 8 to 10 PM

Nachos Tres Street Tacos

8 DISHES FOR $9 ’TIL 10 Savory Ahi Tuna Tacos Mini white corn tortillas, fresh ahi poke, Japanese wakamel radish-jicama slaw, creamy soy-lime aioli Filet Mignon Flatbread Danish blue and Monterey jack cheeses, red onion confit Short Rib Empanadas Tender short rib traditional latin pastry, sautéed peppers, onions and potato; creamy, fire-roasted poblano sauce Lobster Lettuce Wraps North Atlantic lobster, crumbled bacon, crisp onion strings, radish-jicama slaw, creamy soy-lime aioli Deconstructed BalvenieS’more Decadent, molten callebaut chocolate, laced with Balvenie Double Wood scotch whisky; served with artisanal marshmallows and graham crackers 8 WINES & COCKTAILS FOR $9 ’TIL 10 Rioja Palacios-Remondo La Montesa, Spain 2012 Prosecco Mionetto, Italy, NV Bourgogne Jean-Claude Boisset, France, 2012 Bordeaux Chateau de Parenchere, France, 2012 Spiced Mango Smash Kraken Black Spiced Rum Bourbon Peach Martini Maker’s Mark Bourbon Chocolate Lava Milkshake Maker’s Mark Bourbon Winter Chai Mule SVEDKA Vanilla Vodka

Matador Tacos

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

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TRENDS

PIZZERIA ORTICA — COSTA MESA Sunday – Wednesday 7 to 9 PM Thursday 7 to 10 PM SMALL PLATES Arancini Seasonal risotto balls 8 Chef’s Selection of Antipasto Mussels Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels, leeks, chilies & mint 8 Margherita Tomatoes, mozzarella, basil 8 BEVERAGES White Dante Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley, CA 8 Red Ca’Donni Montepulciano, Abrazzo, Italy 8 Sicilian Sangria 8 Select Beer & Well Cocktails 5

SILVER TRUMPET — COSTA MESA PLAYS LATE

FIND A FULL LISTING of Happy Hour and Nite Bites on our Great Taste Magazine App or www.great-taste.net

Sunday – Wednesday 9:30 to 11 PM Thursday – Saturday 9:30 PM to 1 AM PLATES Select Appetizer Specials, Sliders and Tacos 2.50 DRINKS Well Drinks, House Wine & Select Beers 5 Signature Cocktails 8

Want us to promote your restaurant?

Email teri@great-taste.net 16

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F E AT U R E

Fast Casual on the Rise

by Rachel Allan

WHILE MANY RESTAURANTS OFFER EITHER FULL

without the pressure and price of a full-service

Street Market, and Lot 579 aren’t yet open for

SERVICE OR CASUAL DINING, THE INCREASINGLY

experience. If you expect traditional fast food fare,

business, they emphasize the quickly growing genre of fast-fine dining and the revitalization of food

POPULAR CONCEPT OF “FAST-FINE” IS SLOWLY

you’ll have to look elsewhere; these indie food-

BUT SURELY BRIDGING THE GAP. It’s close to fine

markets are reinventing the notion by dishing out

culture in many forgotten neighborhoods. Neglected

dining in a casual atmosphere — and it’s a hit

flavors worthy of a full service or starred restaurant at

cities have become founts of inspiration for chefs,

amongst restaurateurs and foodies. Many businesses

a quicker pace.

and they offer the perfect background to present

are now expanding their options to offer both full-

A number of these fast-fine food havens,

their creative fare, especially to the modern hipster

service dining and premium fast-casual. Many are

including OC Mart at SoCo in Costa Mesa, the

even opening up entirely new locations dedicated to

Anaheim Packing House, Union Market in The

Union Market in Tustin is located in a 23,000

quality cuisine in a relaxed environment — and at a

District in Tustin, Kaleidoscope in Mission Viejo,

square-foot complex and is divided into several

more desirable price! A number of upscale food

Fourth Street Market in downtown Santa Ana and Lot

different restaurant spaces varying in size. It sounds

courts offering craftsman-style eats are filling up

579 at Pacific City in Huntington Beach feature

similar to a mall, which is apparently the goal, as the

with those who desire a unique high-quality dish

multiple dining options. While Kaleidoscope, Fourth

founders hope to build their project “as a brand”

community.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

17

F E AT U R E that “has potential to reboot malls.” A similar

downsides

artisanal food-court, the Fourth Street Market, is

frequenting customers claim it’s the lack of

that will offer experimental twists on traditional

soon to make its debut in Santa Ana. The common-

accessible parking, as many locations were not built

foods (beaver tacos, for example). Anywhere you

roof food market boasts an impressive resume

to accommodate so many cars. But still, the crowds

decide to be seated at S&M you order at the register

already, with a European-style butcher shop by

do not seem to be letting up anytime soon.1

with the “Concierge.” For drinks, you can either

of

these

food

complexes?

Many

with elements of both full-service and fast-casual

Michael Publisi as well as three new eateries started

Individual restaurants dedicated to the fast-fine

order at the register or directly at the bar — tab is

by Jason Quinn of The Playground restaurant. One of

concept are also quickly popping up around Orange

left open to add (whether food or drink) until guests

the obvious upsides of the new fast-fine niche?

County and surrounding areas. One such spot is S&M

are ready for their checks.

According to Chef Jenny Ross of the Lemon Drop

Sausage and Meat in San Diego by Slater’s 50/50

To gain multiple perspectives on the concept, we

Juice Bar at the Anaheim Packing House, the money

founder and president Scott Slater. In an article by

asked a few renowned restaurateurs to tell us where

saved on rent can go toward purchasing the best

Lisa Jennings of Nation’s Restaurant News, Slater

their brands stand in this billion-dollar dining

high-grade seasonal ingredients. One of the

describes this new project as “an eclectic meatery”

trend.

Q&A

Total number of employees? 900-1000

time allotted for dining, and the variety of options we

Average number of employees per full service unit?

provide at each concept — Ruby’s is not just limiting

40-50

diners to burgers, fries, and shakes.

TAD BELSHE

Flat ware – real or plastic? Real

What is your Service model? Ruby’s Dinette service

Executive Vice President oversees both fast casual

Napkins – disposable, premium disposable or linen?

model begins with a warm welcome as the guest

and full service concepts for Ruby’s Diner

Disposable

enters, quick and easy service, counter ordering and

How many stores? 39

Glass ware – disposable, premium disposable or

payment, where our energetic team members

How many stores in the OC & Long Beach? 15

glass? Glass

provide guest with a state-of-the-art table locator

States covered? California, Hawaii, Arizona, Pennsylvania,

Liquor? In some locations

device which when placed on any table in the

Texas, and New Jersey

Wine and Beer? In most locations

restaurant, tells the restaurant team where the guest

Founded? Ruby’s Diner was founded on Balboa Pier

Pros for each concept? Ruby’s appeals to all age groups

is seated, thus allowing speedy delivery of their

by Doug Cavanaugh in 1982

at both concepts. They both provide high quality

order right to their table. That combined with

Year current concepts began? Fast Casual began in

offerings featuring all natural beef, local produce, and

continuous oversight of the dining room for

2014 in Costa Mesa, Atlantic City, NJ, Maui-Whalers

iconic name brands Americans have grown up with and

assistance with refills or that special dessert or ice

Village

trust such as Hershey’s, Nestle, Heinz, Pilgrim’s Pride,

cream order allows guest to enjoy the benefits of a

Average number of employees per fast casual unit?

Kraft, Heritage Farms, and Coca-Cola. We can also

quick-serve concept with the care and attention of

20 (estimate)

meet the desires of our guests based on their mood,

full service dining once seated.

Q&A

Total number of employees? 8-10 per Chronic Taco

enjoy jazz, piano, libations and you get to enjoy it

location, 30 at Social Costa Mesa

with people who have JOBS. It’s a very well-

Average number of employees per fast casual unit?

manicured crowd.

DANIEL A. BIELLO

8-10

Pros for each concept? Chronic Tacos [has] fast

Restaurateur and partner in both Chronic Taco, which

Average number of employees per full service unit?

service, low payroll, is easy to operate, and has a

offers fast casual dining and Social Costa Mesa, which

30

50% cash sales average [as well as] low invoice

offers full service

Average check amount? $11 at Chronic and $38 at

audits, less liability and is simple to schedule and

How many stores? Chronic Tacos 30, and Social

Social

manage. Social Costa Mesa has large average tickets

Costa Mesa, 1

Liquor? Love serving Liquor, you can not run a full

and plenty of quality career trained staff.

How many stores in the OC & Long Beach? 23 in the

service without it.

Next moves? I’ll be opening another fast-casual

OC and 2 in Long Beach

Wine and Beer? Perfect for fast casual

concept in Newport Beach this fall. I also have been

States covered? Chronic is in California, Nevada and

What about your ambiance? Chronic Tacos has a

working on a new full-service concept that will

Vancouver, British Columbia. Social Costa Mesa is in

surfer kid friendly environment, usually with good

[feature] competing menus in a wine bar/Tequila bar

California.

reggae music on and a very well-trained staff

atmosphere. I will also be opening 2 more Social

Founded? 2002 Chronic Tacos, 2014 Social Costa

serving some of the best Mexican food around. I

[Gastro Pubs] in the years to come.

Mesa

like to call [Social] an adult’s playground. You will

18

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

F E AT U R E

Q&A

Founded? 1987

china? China

Total number of employees? 650

Liquor? Yes, in 3 restaurants

Average number of employees per fast casual unit?

Wine and Beer? Yes, in all

THE LEE FAMILY

20

What about your ambiance? Casual surf.

The Lee Family offers fast casual service at Wahoo’s

Average check amount? $12

What is your service model? You pay first, and we do

Fish Tacos

Flat ware – real or plastic? Real

the rest.

How many stores? 62

Napkins – disposable, premium disposable or linen?

Best things about fast casual? Less rent, labor and

How many stores in the OC & Long Beach? 16 in the

Disposable

easier to manage.

OC, 1 in Long Beach

Glass ware – disposable, premium disposable or

Worst things about fast casual? Less profit, too

States covered? California, Hawaii, Nevada, Texas,

glass? Glass and Plastic

many competitors, and competition for real estate

Colorado and Nebraska

Plate ware – disposable, premium disposable or

space.

Total number of employees? Approximately 80

warm, inviting, has modern rock music, a friendly

Q&A

Average number of employees per fast casual unit? 15

staff and local focus while Provisions Market is a

Average number of employees per full service unit? 60

casual hangout/bright and airy market with classic

GREG DANIELS

Flat ware – real or plastic? Real

rock music.

Executive Chef and Partner at Haven Collective is

Napkins – disposable, premium disposable or linen?

Best and Worst things about fast casual? Best: less

connected to both Haven Gastropub, which offers

Disposable

employees, more casual feel, and more relaxed

full service and Provisions Market, which follows a

Plate ware – disposable, premium disposable or

expectations from guests. Worst: more turnover, less

fast casual model

china? China

skilled work force and less opportunity to impress

How many stores? 1 each

Glass ware – disposable, premium disposable or

guests with service.

How many stores in the OC & Long Beach? Both are

glass? Glass

What’s your definition, mantra or mission statement?

in the OC.

Liquor? Not in the fast casual concept (Provisions Market)

Both locations — “Dedication to Craft.” For Haven

States covered? California

Wine and Beer? Yes! For both on and off-site

Gastropub, it’s “Gourmet Comfort Food” and for

Founded? Haven Gastropub in 2009 and Provisions

consumption.

Provisions Market it’s “An Uncommonly Good Market.”

market in 2013

What about your ambiance? Haven Gastropub is

1 Food Hall 101 by Nancy Luna and Heather Goldin from August 2

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

19

CHEF DE CUISINE

Chef photos by Michael Rutt Chef coat by Lost Car Chef Apparel

Chef Eddie Garcia

by Chef Katie Averill

INSIDE OF THE AVENUE OF THE ARTS WYNDHAM HOTEL IS A HIDDEN GEM

Chef Garcia made a leap to corporate university dining next where he learned

CALLED THE SILVER TRUMPET. Having just completed a beautiful remodel, the

the other business areas that make a great Executive Chef: the financial side. For

large restaurant complete with sleek bar and lounge, is sexy, sophisticated and is

the first time, he learned how to do the books and get more involved with front-

on par with any top free standing restaurant in Orange County. At the helm is

of-the-house workings. The structure of corporate dining suited his personal life

Executive Chef Eddie Garcia and as he is new to the position, he rounds out the

at the time; he had married his high school sweetheart and was raising three

complete renovation of The Silver Trumpet. Modern décor is matched with

children.

modern american cuisine. The restaurant is adjacent to the Art District in Costa

Chef Garcia comes to the Silver Trumpet with a great resume and the well

Mesa so many find it to be a perfect pre theater dinner spot. The hotel’s AAA 4

rounded skills of a seasoned chef. Following the interview, we indulge in a divine

diamond rating is a testament to its high standards.

lunch including fresh lobster grilled cheese sandwiches and juicy filet mignon

Coming from East Los Angeles, Chef Garcia attended Los Angeles Trade

popping with fresh seasonal vegetables and vibrant sauces. Chef Eddie loves

Technical in a two-year culinary program. Before he even graduated, he had the

rolling out new menus with each changing season and creating specials based on

opportunity and jumped onto the team of Wolfgang Puck. Through six years of

what is fresh today. Maybe it’s Petrole Sole with Basil Puree and Lobster Nage or

working with Puck’s restaurant group, he gained classic French training and

Black and White Linguini with Scallops and Brown Butter.

experienced the opening procedures at three new locations. He recalls his time at

When not at work, Chef Garcia continues working with his hands as he

Granita Malibu with a little nostalgia as an opportunity to cook with unlimited

nurtures his yard at home. He loves trying new restaurants over returning to

creativity, focusing only on food and becoming a better chef. He then moved on to

favorites. He is in search of the perfect fish dish and also loves a good IPA. We,

the infamous Dal Rae restaurant in Pico Rivera where he learned a lot about

however, will definitely be returning to the Silver Trumpet which offers breakfast,

mastering stocks, sauces and butchery with its old school French/Seafood Cuisine.

lunch and dinner and weekend brunch. This place is not to be missed.

20

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

CHEF DE CUISINE

FROM THE CHEF’S MOUTH FIRST COOKING RELATED MEMORY was watching

FAVORITE RAW INGREDIENT is Ahi Tuna

my grandfather making Menudo for our family of

FAVORITE FAST FOOD is In and Out

about twelve.

MY CULINARY HERO is Lee Hefter

IF NOT A CHEF I would be a Commercial Artist

MY CULINARY EDUCATION includes two years at

FAVORITE KITCHEN GADGET is a Squeeze Bottle

Los Angeles Trade Technical

FAVORITE KITCHEN APPLIANCE is a Pasta Cooker

PLACES TRAVELED to explore and learn additional

3350 Avenue of the Arts

FAVORITE TYPE OF COOKWARE is Copper

cuisines are New York, Chicago and Las Vegas

Costa Mesa, CA 92626

FAVORITE SPICE IS Fennel Seed

THREE WORDS BEST DESCRIBE MY CULINARY

www.silvertrumpetrestaurant.com

BIGGEST MYTH about working in the kitchen is that

STYLE are French Mediterranean Casual

all chefs yell at their employees

THREE WORDS BEST DESCRIBE MY

Sunday – Wednesday 6 am - 11 pm

SIGNATURE OR FAVORITE DISH to make is

MANAGEMENT STYLE are Fair Firm Understanding

Thursday – Saturday 7 am - 1 am

Seared Ahi Tuna Salad

MY PREVIOUS INDUSTRY EMPLOYERS are

Daily Happy Hour 4 pm - 7 pm & 10pm - Close

FAVORITE HOBBY is golf

Wolfgang puck Café, Granita, Louise’s Trattoria,

FAVORITE DISH TO EAT is Scallop Trio at Silver

California Pizza Kitchen, The Del Rea, Bon

Average cover for one guest including beverage

Trumpet

Appetite, Sodexo, Aramark, Guckenheimer and

Lunch: $20

FAVORITE JUNK FOOD is Doritos and Coke

Wyndham Hotel

Dinner: $50

Banquets and Caterings / Special Events / Weddings

CHINOIS AHI TUNA SALAD Serves 1 4 oz

Ahi Tuna - seared medium rare Salt and Pepper

6 oz

Napa cabbage - julienne

2 oz

Carrots - grated

1 oz

Green onions - sliced on the bias

4 oz

Arugula - washed

2 oz

Cilantro - chopped

1 oz

Wontons - fried and lightly salted

Toss all ingredients in mixing bowl with dressing HONEY GINGER DRESSING Yield – 1 quart 4T

Ginger

2T

Garlic

1T

Dry mustard

2 oz

Rice wine vinegar

3C

Peanut oil or Canola oil

1/2 C

Soy sauce

3 lbs

Honey Water as needed

In Blender add all ingredients except Honey, and Oil. Blend for 1 minute then slowly add oil to emulsify. Add honey. If dressing is too thick add water as needed.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

21

1 2

3

Blue Steel “Here's to the blues, where there's a hint of hope in every cry

4

of desperation.” ― David Mutti Clark 1 Cobalt Blue KitchenAid

5

5 Qt. Artisan Series with Pouring Shield 2 Book Bone Holds Books Open - Made in USA 3 Bialetti Blue 6 cup Espresso Coffee Maker

8 4 Arta Brio Citrus Reamer,

6

Blue / Stainless Steel 5 Waring Pro MG1200 500-Watt Professional Meat Grinder 6 Melange 5-Piece Ceramic Knife Set with Blue Handle and White

7

Blade 7 Stainless Steel Disher with Dark Blue Handle

22

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

www.great-taste.net/gifting

THE BIZ: SOMMELIER PERSPECTIVE

Complete your Wine List with These Regional Classics

by Sommelier Jörn Kleinhans

5 OF THE DISTINCTIVE RED GRAPES

3 MAIN WHITE NOBLE VARIETALS

ways to learn about the key grapes of the world is

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

RIESLING

to source wines from their original (and usually

Margaux, Bordeaux, France (also good: Chile,

Mosel, Germany and Alsace, France (Mosel for

best) growing regions.

Italy, USA, South Africa)

sweet, Alsace for dry. Other regions lack clarity of

MANY OF OUR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA RESTAURANTS SHOW A GREAT SELECTION OF CALIFORNIA WINES ON THEIR MENUS. Perhaps you may want to add just a few classics from other regions that can be important to upscale guests who look for global variety.

We believe that one of the best and quickest

typical attributes.)

In all of our tastings, we show clients the essentials,

rather

than

venturing

into

PINOT NOIR

experimental interpretations, in order to create

Burgundy,

an authentic impression of each wine's identity.

Marlborough, New Zealand and Oregon, USA)

France

(also

grows

well

in

SAUVIGNON BLANC Sancerre, Loire, France (a more amplified grapefruit flavor shows in Marlborough New

This allows for discussion of “typicity” — how typical a wine is of its kind — an important

SYRAH

Zealand. American Sauvignon Blanc usually

quality factor.

Crozes Hermitage or Cote Rotie, Northern Rhone,

misses the citric clarity of the French original)

There are close to 10,000 different wine grapes in the world, but most don't reach

France (Australia makes a warmer and more bombastic Syrah, called Shiraz)

With your wine list of California classics,

CHARDONNAY Chablis and Burgundy, France, as well as Napa

distinguished and consistent flavors.

NEBBIOLO

plus the important selections listed here, you

Barolo, Piemonte, Italy (the grape is not known to

are well positioned for regular guests that are

be expressive anywhere outside Piemonte)

Valley, California

looking for a wholesome wine and dinner experience.

Here is a list of the major white and red grapes of the world and their best appellations.

SANGIOVESE Chianto Classico, Tuscany, Italy (not authentic anywhere else)

MAKE CONTACT Sommelier Jörn Kleinhans is a Certified Specialist of Wine, the owner of the Wine Elite Sommelier Company and is based in Huntington Beach.

The Wine Elite Sommelier Company builds and executes award-winning profitable wine programs in partnership with Southern California restaurants and hotels and is also the best resource to find sommeliers and wine educators to hire, for restaurant floor service or special events.

Visit www.WineElite.org or call 310 467 5582

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

23

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Raising the Bar: The Mixing Revolution

by James Wood flavor components from different spirits and

With what seems a new craft bar and

A SNOBBY WAY OF SAYING BARTENDER? Maybe,

mixes will work to make a perfectly balanced

restaurant opening every week, and plenty more

but truth be told the phrase has been used to

cocktail. Coupled with a wealth of knowledge

on the horizon, why are they so important to the

describe a bartender with elevated skill since the

about the history of what you are about to

culinary landscape in Orange County? Well, let’s

mid 1800’s. Ok, but what is this “Craft Cocktail”

consume, our mixologist is almost as important

start by asking a simple question. What’s in a Mai

thingy all about then? Well, you know all those

as the chef, and in some cases more so. The top

Tai? Easy right? The answer may shock you

sugary sweet cocktails whose color cannot be

mixologists in the country are featured in the

though. To the majority of us, this classic drink

found in the natural world that give you the worst

biggest publications, are flown to events in

that came courtesy of Victor Bergeron around

hangover known to human kind: Yes. Well it’s not

private jets, command massive pay checks for

1944, is often an overly sweet affair with orange

that. It is In fact a study of art, flavor, balance

creating unique cocktail lists and some have

juice, pineapple juice, grenadine and light and

and history. All mixologists have an amazing eye

achieved rock star status and are getting their

dark rums. If you were to walk in to the majority

for detail and an exceptional knowledge of which

own TV spots.

of bars and restaurants in Orange County, this is

SO “MIXOLOGIST” YOU ASK. ISN’T THAT JUST

TRADITIONAL MAI TAI 1 oz

Amber Martinique rum

1 oz

Dark Jamaican rum

1 oz

Fresh lime juice

1/2 oz

Orgeat syrup

1/2 oz

Cointreau

Garnish with mint and a lime if you like.

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker, except the garnish. Shake and strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish and float some dark rum on top of the cocktail.

24

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

THE BIZ: BEVERAGES what you would be served. Not the craft cocktail bar though. For a mixologist that would be the equivalent of microwaving a prime piece of steak: It’s just not right. When the venerable Mai Tai is made correctly, it is a life changing experience. The balance of light and dark rums with fresh lime juice, orange curaçao and orgeat (pronounced awr-zhat, a syrup made from almonds, sugar and rose water) is a far departure from the sickly sweet alternative.

The mantra of any craft bar is to make it right and make it good. Like any great chef the barkeeps are making syrups and mixes from scratch, ordering top quality spirits from high quality producers, and they are creating innovative drinks using equipment like smoking guns, dehydrators and vaporizers. Today’s mixologist is part historian, part artist and part chef.

With so many chain restaurants churning out cheap, mass produced food and drinks, it is a breath of fresh air to see places like Social, Arc, 320 Main, Playground and others start to change perceptions on what dining is all about. The food that is so lovingly sent from the kitchen now has a friend when it gets to your table and that is a well thought out cocktail, wine or beer pairing. It’s very hard to pair a crispy piece of pork belly with a frozen margarita. A stirred perfect Manhattan on the other hand is a match made in heaven. Don’t take my word for it though.

Next time you are at a craft bar let the mixologist guide you. Allow them to take you on a journey through the classics and the contemporary. The bar is being raised and the quality and skill of our Orange County mixologists is on the up and up. So let’s saddle up to the bar, raise a glass and embrace the movement. Prost.

MAKE CONTACT James Wood Owner/ Mixologist - Outlaw Bar Consulting outlawbarconsulting@gmail.com

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014 | great taste

25

T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

Equity Crowdfunding’s Effects on the Food Industry

by Gil Michel-Garcia United States) are allowing start ups to engage with accredited investors online and since its creation has helped companies to raise more than $40 million.

Anecdotal evidence from the innovative companies that have raised money on CircleUp is that they have generally been able to dramatically increase their growth within a year of completing an equity raise. This new easier access to capital has begun to substantially change the dynamics of the food industry by allowing most of the growth in new products to come from small start-ups rather than large established multinational companies.

Equity crowdfunding will have a transformative effect on the food industry, and American

26

A REVOLUTION IS UNDERWAY IN THE FOOD

find their valuations simply too expensive

consumers and the US economy will be the better

INDUSTRY and it is no secret that consumers are

compared to tech companies.

for it. Thanks to the advent of equity crowdfunding

increasingly looking for more local, healthier, less

Thankfully the advent of equity crowdfunding

small innovative companies will soon have the

processed, greener, more innovative/ethnic foods.

is finally beginning to open the floodgates of

resources to bring to market more local, healthier,

Large food multinationals have been having a

financing for food companies in the US. Simply

less processed, greener, more innovative/ethnic

hard time adapting their operations in order to

put, equity crowdfunding is the ability to sell

foods that consumers are craving.

respond and as is usually the case, it has been

one’s shares or debt obligations to many small

Gil Michel-Garcia is co-founder and CEO of

small innovative food companies that have tried

investors over the internet, both locally and

WAFU Inc., a small fast growing company which

to market the products that consumers are

around the globe. Right now, food based

develops, produces and distributes a line of

looking for. Unfortunately, just like many other

businesses can tap into a wide network of

Japanese dressings and mayos under the WAFU®

small businesses in America, small food

accredited investors, giving them access to

brand. Gil’s corporate legal and business

companies have been unable to obtain the capital

capital. This was made possible by recent

background includes extensive experience with

needed to properly meet this demand.

provisions in the JOBS Act, enacted by Congress

cross-border private debt and equity offerings, as

Food companies have traditionally had a hard

in 2012, making equity crowdfunding legal in the

well as venture capital and private equity

time attracting capital because most don’t have

United States. Soon additional provisions of the

transactions. As CEO of WAFU, Gil has helped

the hard assets that traditional banks require to

JOBS ACT will allow non-accredited investors to

WAFU to raise more than $1 million from

lend against, as most of their assets consist of

invest in start-ups allowing entrepreneurs to tap

accredited investors including $230,000 through

intellectual property (primarily the value of their

into their network of friends, family and

the first ever U.S. accredited investor equity

brand). In addition, unlike tech companies

customers to invest in their company in exchange

crowdfunding offering over the internet by a

(whose

of

for equity. Once non-accredited investors are able

Canadian company. Most recently, Gil helped

intellectual property), food companies have not

to engage in equity crowdfunding many doors of

WAFU to launch the first ever simultaneous

traditionally had access to venture capital and

capital access for growing businesses will open.

cross-border (US/Canada) accredited investor

assets

also

primarily

consist

private equity. According to Business Insider

For now, equity crowdfunding platforms like

Magazine, many venture capitalists are skeptical

CircleUp (the premier accredited investor equity

company, through CircleUp in the United States

about the long-term promise of food startups, and

crowdfunding portal for consumer goods in the

and Optimize Capital Markets in Canada.

www.great-taste.net | NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2014

equity crowdfunding offering by a Canadian

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