Great Taste Magazine 2015 May/June Issue.

Page 1

Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 271 Tucson, AZ

MAY | JUNE 2015



FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT INSIDE 6 NEW TALENT

THE BIZ 2 1 RAISING THE BAR

Meet the faces contributing to Great Taste. Teri Williams

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ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS

Content

Barrel Aging

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VIN Man’s Influence

Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net

TERI’S TAKE OOD has long been a staple of both design and structure in restaurants. Back in the times of the cave man wood was used for utensils and for plates and now, we’ve come circle again and restaurants are introducing wood to their tablescape for both individual service and buffet presentations more often. Like the plated dishes themselves, the wooden serving pieces bring additional pattern, color and texture to the dining experience. In this issue, we compiled some WOOD ideas for you to contemplate including serving platters, smokin’ woods, and architectural details. Literally, from floor to ceiling there are dozens of wood options to choose from; each with unique, color, treatment, finish and texture. Our contributing writers James Wood and Sonya Kelsen bring information to the issue about how wood is used for wine and spirits. We’re here to start a fire in your imagination and help keep your restaurant concept evolving! Cheers!

TRENDS 1 0 PLATTERS O’ PLENTY F E AT U R E S 1 2 WINNING WOOD DESIGN

D E PA RT M E N T S 5 CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH 5 THE POUR 7 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH RECIPES 1 7 KENTUCKY ORANGE BLOSSOM

W

On The Cover

Few Orange County Chefs have their imagination taxed like that of Chef Ross Pangillinan of Leatherby’s Café Rouge. Quarterly, he creates three to four menus to match the Broadway shows playing at Segerstrom Center for the Arts with passion and artistry. Recently at a media preview we were lucky enough to taste samples from the Phanton of the Opera, Lion King, 42nd Street, Nutcracker and Wicked menus. A definite highlight (pictured here) is an appetizer cleverly depicting the “Circle of Life”. Caramelized Salmon Deviled Eggs, Salmon caviar, chicken skin, pickled mustard seed, and mustard frills completed the sensational bite and of course, to pair with our magazine theme, it was served on WOOD. Photo by Austin Trask

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INSIDE

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Jante Diaz Sonya Kelsen Christine van Rooy James Wood

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michaelrutt@earthlink.net

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

BOOKS

BOOKS

ake your barbecue to the next level. Add an additional layer of flavor with wood. This book includes incredible recipes combined with all the secrets to making great-tasting, succulent and perfectly cooked barbecue every time. Keep an eye out for the pulled pork recipe that won "the Jack," and the brisket recipe that got a perfect score at the American Royal Barbecue Invitational Contest. Photographer Ken Goodman quips “If your smoker doesn't inspire you to buy this book, than this book will inspire you to buy a smoker. The author Bill Gillespie is a BBQ force of nature!” To purchase this and other great titles, visit Great-Taste.net.

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INSIDE

The Pour by Jante Diaz THE TEMPERATURE IS RISING, SWEAT IS DRIPPING AND YOU’RE THIRSTY. Alas, summer has arrived. Time to bask in that heat and pour yourself a glass of beer. Now what beer should you drink in this summer heat? You’ve probably been drinking IPA’s or Pale Ales all year, maybe a porter here and there. How about a Saison? Farmers originally made the Saison or Farmhouse Ale during winter when conditions were optimal for brewing beer and refrigeration didn’t exist. Brewing beer during this time kept beer from spoiling and bottles were set aside and consumed during summer, quenching the thirst of farm workers with its bright and refreshing flavors. If this beer can quench the thirst of farmers working during the hot summer months, this will surely quench yours. Host a summer party and bring out the tulip glass to pour your Saison into. It gets its name for its shape because it resembles what other than that of a tulip. It has a bulb-like body that flares out at the top that helps capture aromas and preserve its head. The Saison can embody a wide range of flavors, depending on which one you pick up, that either make it more hoppy, floral, fruity or tart. This also allows for this beer to also match with a wide array of food! The Bruery, located in Placentia, and Monkish Ales Brewering Co., located in Torrance, are both perfect Southern California breweries to visit to get your foot into the Saison world. Glasses should always be hand-washed very carefully. For best results, use a gentle bottlebrush. To avoid detergent residue, rinse glasses thoroughly in clean water. It is not recommended that you freeze the glass. Never drink beer out of a frosted glass. When beer hits the frozen glass, it will alter the temperature and dilute your beer, affecting the flavor.

Cheese Pick of the Month CHEVRE LOGS SAY 'GOAT CHEESE' AND WHAT COMES TO MIND

and citrus-like with a lemony tang and an

Capriole Chevre won the 2003 American Cheese

IS OFTEN A SOFT, FRESH, MILD TASTING

underlying sweetness.

Society award they have been producing this

CHEESE, SLIGHTLY LEMONY AND ACIDIC.

While the taste is totally unique, its other

cheese since 1976 at their farm in Indiana.

Refreshing 'as is' or as an ingredient, and shaped

special attribute is texture. Nothing else can

Centered on herd health, longevity, productivity

into a buche or log. For Judy Schad and the team

deliver the impression of richness without the fat

and on animals who are born, live, and die on the

at Capriole, this was the first, and perhaps for that

and calories, and it's this that distinguishes a

same farm their Alpine, Saanen and Nubian

reason, still the most magical cheese they make.

goat milk fromage blanc from cow milk versions.

breeds thrive.

Perfectly simple, delicate, and full of promise, it

Only goat milk produces a cheese that's light as a

always reminds us of springtime. Flavors are bright

cloud and silken on the tongue. Though the

For more information on Farmstead cheeses contact your FreshPoint representative.

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Our Talent SONYA KELSEN COLONY WINE MERCHANT Sonya's drive stems from a childhood in the family restaurant business, which led to her many career endeavors. After growing up and working in the restaurant industry in Mexico, Sonya's thirst to enter the wine market led her to California to seek more opportunities. Sonya was fortunate enough to work alongside wine leaders like Robert Mondavi who hired her to open The Golden Vine Winery. This afforded Sonya the opportunity to study viticulture, winemaking and wine and food pairing extensively. In 2009 Sonya started her own company called Rhema Wines, in which she assisted family owned boutique wineries that farm sustainably and produce limited quantities of ultra-premium wines, to penetrate the California market. Since going out on her own Sonya has had the honor and privilege of managing distribution for a number of wineries, consulting on personal wine collections, orchestrating consumer events, contributing countless hours to local charities and surrounding herself with amazing winemakers and vintners. Sonya's lifetime experiences and love of wine is brought under one roof at the Colony Wine Merchant located in Downtown Anaheim. It is here with her husband where they will share their excitement for everything wine related from storytelling to education.

JAMES WOOD OUTLAW BAR CONSULTANT James Wood has been awarded Best Cocktails in OC, Readers Choice Vote for Best Bartender, and Best Signature Cocktail and OC Weekly’s Drink of The Week twice. Born in England, James grew up in Aberdeen, Scotland. Wood now resides in Costa Mesa, is the Owner of Outlaw Bar Consultant and is also a Sales Representative at Wine Warehouse. His first job at a golf course waiting tables, came to an abrupt end once he turned 18 and was allowed to work the bar. At age 19 he landed a job at TGI Friday where his passion for mixing drinks began. While working there he got a tattoo on his arm that says “Cocktails and Dream,” emulating the movies and his beloved career. In the beginning with his minimal experience, he had more failures than successes but he continued to create his own drinks. During his tenure in the OC he has seen a change in demand of cocktails that are now created with housemade syrups, fresh juices and fresh herb garnishes. With this transition in the bar scene, it has opened up endless possibilities to craft the perfect cocktails. Wood’s philosophy is “you can never stop creating.” Concocting new fresh flavors for guests keeps the job unpredictable and exciting especially when guests are experiencing a hand crafted cocktail for the first time. Wood describes three things to keep in mind to be a successful mixologist: simple, sexy and sophisticated. Just ask yourself, “would Dean Martin or Ernest Hemingway drink it?” Wood spends his free time researching and bouncing new ideas and concoctions off with his wife’s amazing palate to create his next great tasting cocktail. Photo by: Alan De Herrera

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PRODUCE PICK O F

T H E

M O N T H

SORREL SORREL IS NOT THE MOST COMMON OF SPRING GREENS TO FIND IN MOST KITCHENS. It can be pretty tart and even acidic, but most professionals know what to do with it. Sorrel can be so exquisite when paired well: It has a fresh bite that epitomizes spring, and while it can be too much to eat on its own as a raw salad, there are so many dishes that brighten tremendously with a smattering of this tender green. Most folks use raw sorrel as an accent, but young spring sorrel can be wonderful tossed into salads, making for a nice citrusy bite. This is the kind of green that will refresh you, wake you up, and remind you that it's spring. When it's cooked, however, sorrel's tartness wanes, making it a wonderful compliment to chicken or fish and an excellent candidate for homemade sauces and soups. Once a common ingredient in soups, stews, salads and sauces, sorrel vanished from use for hundreds of years. Now this delightful, leafy green is finding its way back into gardens and kitchens, where its tantalizing flavor and good nutrition can be enjoyed. Sorrels and their relatives, docks, are members of the Rumex family, found mainly in temperate climates all over the world including most of California including Kenter Canyon Farms in Ventura County. Although many Rumex species are considered weeds throughout the United States, sorrels have long been cultivated as culinary herbs, valued for their lemony flavor. The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com.

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INSIDE

Happy Anniversary In the restaurant business, making it to that one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment. In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and applauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations on your milestone birthdays. Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.

30 YEARS SCHOONER OR LATER In June, 1985 Schooner or Later opened with Denise

Our location is probably what attracts our guest,

bell pepper and onion on the grill, once grilled, add

Lund, her brother, Denny and his best friend Gary

when they find that our food is as good as our

to the hash browns, add 2 eggs mix on grill and let

Truax. Gary left the business a year later, at which

location, Schooner has become a destination for

cook, top with grated cheddar cheese, put a lid on

time their mother bought in to the business. Mom did

locals friends and family from out of state, it’s a

top to melt. Served with sourdough toast and salsa.

the books, Denise ran operations and Denny

must do. It has become a tradition for many of our

We want to thank everyone for their support for 30

socializes. Mom is 85 years old now and she still

customers for special occasions or just a “calgon”

years of business, we appreciate the loyalty of our

loves to come in daily, does what she can for a couple

take me away. There are many people that tell us, the

employees and our customers.

hours and makes sure we are doing everything right.

only plan they make or a Sat or Sun is go to Schooner

I attribute the longevity of Schooner to the fact

or Later, then we'll go from there.

MAKE CONTACT

that we have never turned it over to someone else to

Are there any original dishes that are still on the

run! One of us is there daily, that may also account

menu today?

Schooner or Later

for our employee longevity. Our main cook has been

Our world famous original dish that we kept from the

241 N Marina Dr

there 29 years, his name is Tony Galope, and

original owners, Earl & Helen Shultz, is called the

Long Beach, California

amazing man to work with. We currently employ

Mess. The dish starts with hash browns, browned on

562.430.3495

approximately 55 people.

the grill, the Mess mix which is finely chopped, ham,

www.schoonerorlater.com

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

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1 YEARS BOSSCAT KITCHEN & LIBATIONS

1 YEARS IL BARONE PIZZA E PASTA

What is the signature dish?

What is the signature dish?

The Bosscat Burger is our most popular dish. Chef

The signature dish has to be the faccia ri Veccia. It’s

Steaks.

Peter has truly delivered a unique twist on an

so decadent! Two thin layers of focaccia surrounding

To what do you attribute the longevity of the restaurant?

American classic. We use only the best quality mid-

imported Crescenza cheese. On top thin ribbons of

Constantly keeping the restaurant updated, menu

western raised beef, lightly formed, with only salt

Prosciutto di Parma drizzled with white truffle oil.

innovation, and good old fashioned hospitality

and pepper added. He uses a blend of cheeses,

Who is the Chef de Cuisine?

What makes your restaurant unique?

balsamic dressed field greens, a hint of black forest

Jonathan Barone, Donatella and Franco’s eldest son.

Our location; it’s offbeat but it’s also a destination

bacon crumbles, sweet pickles, onion marmalade

He’s really stepped into this role with his father’s

due to the location, property, and garden.

and our secret sauce. Additionally, our Poutine has

guidance, and he’s doing an amazing job.

How has it changed and evolved?

been awarded OC's top Poutine. A combination of

How are you celebrating this year?

We've adapted to the different economic climates

wedge cut fries, house made gravy, crispy pork

We’re celebrating by simply being thankful for our

and demographics of the area.

belly, cheese curds and a duck fat fried egg to

patron’s and letting them know that we couldn’t be

How are you celebrating this year?

garnish.

there without their support.

We offered a three course menu with a special price.

10 YEARS PARK AVE Are there any original dishes that are still on the menu today? Crispy Greens, Tomato Soup, Chicken Pot Pie, and

How many employees does the restaurant have?

MAKE CONTACT

MAKE CONTACT

We threw a huge party of invited guest, local foodies

Il Barone Pizza e Pasta

Park Ave Restaurant

and rave reviewers. We had tray passed apps,

705 E Balboa Blvd

11200 Beach Blvd

cocktail specials and hot beats by DJ Z.

Newport Beach, California

Stanton, California

Any advice or observations based on year 1?

949.673.1029

714.901.4400

OC is yearning for great concepts that take

www.Ilbaroneristorante.com

www.parkavedining.com

46 How are you celebrating this year?

traditional American fair and takes a decadent spin. We have captured the market by providing excellent Southern

Hospitality

inspired

service,

craft

cocktails without the snobbery and culinary genius mastered by Chef P. Any challenges or joys you would like to tell us about? Our greatest achievement has been bringing OC a mix of culinary comfort food and a great bar atmosphere that all can enjoy including your Jack Daniels lover and your most knowledgeable mixologist. We have worked diligently to provide an atmosphere not intimidating to the typical consumer and one still sophisticated enough to get the true whiskey lovers to drive from miles around. Also we have been recognized as one of the U.S. top 75 whiskey bars nationwide, a true achievement in only 1 year

MAKE CONTACT Bosscat Kitchen & Libations 4647 Macarthur Blvd Newport Beach, California 949.333.0917 www.bosscatkitchen.com

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TRENDS

Platters o’ Plenty WOOD HAS LONG BEEN A STAPLE OF BOTH DESIGN AND STRUCTURE IN RESTAURANTS. Back in the times of the cave man wood was used for utensils and for plates and now, we’ve come circle again and restaurants are re-introducing wood to their tablescape for both individual service and buffet presentations. Like the plated dishes themselves, the wooden serving pieces bring additional pattern, color and texture to the dining experience. Buffets are sporting more wooden trays to add interest, color and texture and passed hors d’oeuvres are at home on wooden trays, spoons, cones and the like reducing the plastic previously being discarded.

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1

3

1

ARC

5

4

3

THE DECK

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PROVENANCE

Costa Mesa

Laguna Beach

Newport Beach

Salmon Salad with asparagus, tomato and lemon

Grilled Cheese Sandwich with aged Vermont

The new Farm Bento Boxes at Provenance replace

crafted over open fire in a kitchen and served on

cheddar, Danish fontina, Nueske bacon, caramelized

their traditional charcuterie boards and include

wood to further emulate the natural appeal and

onions and a cup of Tomato Soup.

inherent passion dedicated to every nuance. 4

HAVEN

Pork Rillettes, house-pickled veggies of all sorts,

Orange

fruit, nuts, chutneys, assorted breads and

Newport Beach

Pick four selections from the rotating list of craft

mustards.

Lamb prosciutto from Seattle served on a

beers to create your custom beer flight. The cost

traditional Charcuterie board. Photo by Moxxe PR.

depends on your brew selections.

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10

JULIETTE

several artisan cheeses and charcuterie. Normally, Chef Cathy includes a house-made Duck Pate and

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TRENDS

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6

8

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PRIMAL ALCHEMY CATERING

Long Beach

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SOCIAL

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BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN

Costa Mesa

Brea

Tray passed or set on a banquet table, hors

All you need is 20 minute notice. Order the

Sunday Supper is built around the idea of sharing

d'oeuvres are perfectly at home on wood.

Kurobuta Pig Head. It’s served carnitas style with

a meal of polenta served family-style with

all the fixins for sharing.

customizable options all served on a large wooden

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TEMPO URBAN KITCHEN

board. Polenta night offers friends and relatives the

Brea

opportunity to have an interactive and fun family

Chicken Tika Tacos

meal, allowing everyone to create what he or she deem to be the perfect mixture of flavors.

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F E AT U R E

Winning Wood

ABOUT THE WRITER Christine van Rooy is the Principal and Co-Founder of VANROOY design, LLC. an interior architectural design firm

by Christine van Rooy

specializing in restaurant, night club, hotel, and retail design. She is a Nationally Certified Interior Designer with 14 years in the hospitality industry and holds a Bachelor of

WOOD NEEDS TO BE USED WISELY TO CONVEY A PARTICULAR AESTHETIC. It should be used

Fine Arts Degree in Interior Architectural Design from

to help develop the restaurants brand; whether casual, sophisticated, modern, rustic, organic, or

California State University Long Beach. Christine is sought

trendy. Wood has a very strong philological impact on guests. Overall it is more expensive than

out for inspiring interior environments which reflect her

plastic laminates when installed and, occasionally, it can be comparable to stone in price.

clients’ goals and promote clear branding direction. She is

Wood should be used to create a WOW factor, create interest and authenticity. It can be smooth,

responsible for creating the design for many notable

monochromatic in color for high-end establishments, various colors, textures and patterns for more

projects such as The Ranch Restaurant & Saloon, The Ranch

casual environments, or used to sharply contrast the overall space in hopes of adding organic,

Events Center, Sambalatte at Monte Carlo, Provenance at

comfortable elements.

Eastbluff, and James Republic, a Dean James Max restaurant.

The warmth and appearance of real wood is so popular that there are now ceramic tiles made to look like wood. The Janka Hardness test is the standard for determining the density of wood. The more dense, or harder the wood is, the better it is to use for exterior applications. It is common to use Cedar (western red cedar) and Ipe (the most dense and attainable wood available).

TAPS FISH HOUSE Irvine COASTLINE DESIGN, INC. Four 400 pound sliding Alder wood barn door panels span the 35 foot arch that separates the private dining space at the latest location of TAPS.

OAK GRILL TERRACE Island Hotel, Newport Beach THE FICUS TREE It’s always magical when you can use the real thing! A growing tree softens the hard lines of a built environment setting the mood for an afternoon garden party or nighttime romantic evening under the stars. At Oak Grill Terrace the patio’s Ficus trees become the focus, center-stage, the vista point that draws guests to the patio and are the most functional way of providing shade. As a designer, we always struggle to provide shade and lighting that work effortlessly with the overall exterior space, and Oak Grill did it perfectly.

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F E AT U R E

HAMAMORI Costa Mesa Chef James presides on the other side of this beautiful 150 year old bubinga wood bar that accommodates eight.

ZOVS Tustin CHARLES RAM & ASSOCIATES Zov's 28 seat bar face uses blonde and cherry stained wood types in a chevron pattern. Psychologically this gives the guest energy through movement in the pattern and depth. Without this pattern the space would be less interesting and lack a specific focal point. As you can see, this pattern is occurring at the bar, which encourages guests to get a drink or appetizer while they wait for their tables, by catching their eye immediately upon entering the restaurant.

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F E AT U R E

THE RANCH Anaheim VANROOY CREATIVE GROUP The wood ceilings at The Ranch and Provenance utilize the same technique and installation style however, different wood types and arrangements were used. Both are custom, hidden, acoustical ceilings. They are both made with 6” wide wood slats that have a 2” gap between them with a black acoustical blanket above. Provenance wood is reclaimed, rough and finished raw from a barn in Pennsylvania and The Ranch is new rustic “grade A” Hickory, stained and finished smooth. What a difference the wood type and finish can make on the overall aesthetic of a space.

PROVENANCE Newport Beach VANROOY CREATIVE GROUP For Provenance restaurant at Eastbluff in Newport Beach, the quality of food that Chef Cathy wanted could only mean growing the produce themselves. With such a high focus on food quality, as the designer, it only made sense to open the entire restaurant up to view the 1,300 square foot garden. As a rule of thumb, designers should always feature what is most unique and special about a restaurant. Wood was the only option to make the garden as natural feeling as possible. To accentuate the garden we painted the interior of the restaurant in light relaxing tones so that guests would naturally look toward the garden area immediately upon entering the restaurant. The exterior canopy and back patio wall is made of rough sawn Western Red Cedar to give the look of age and authenticity of Napa wine country. The garden boxes are made from standard Pine lumber, full of knots and character. The choice to use pine allows us to replace and maintain the planter boxes over the years with little cost impact on the restaurant.

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F E AT U R E

PANXA Long Beach WALLS Pattern and texture are critical for a restaurant interior. They provide a focal point and a place of interest for the guest. It's a great way to keep an overall design budget in check and still have a large impact on guest perspective. Sometimes a simple painted wall with art can set the tone for the entire space.

RESTAURATION Long Beach The kitchen is super small and space was limited so this little work horse of an oven on the patio was exactly what we needed to put out quality product. It

added

to

the

comfortable

backyard-feel

atmosphere we wanted and puts out amazing pizzas, roasted, braised and baked items. If wood-fired grilling is the restaurant specialty, the restaurant should have a design that highlights and accentuates this feature. An exposed open oven and stacked wood of different species should be the focal point, the WOW factor, the "stage" and the location of entertainment. Guests should know immediately by sight, then aroma and soon taste, that this restaurant is using a special technique to set them apart from other restaurants.

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F E AT U R E

SOCIAL Costa Mesa RECLAIMED WOOD The use of "barn wood" is a hot trend right now. Social uses this wood as a layered textural element, showing age and authentic beauty. The wood pieces vary in color, some with paint chipping off, sun faded and raw. This use of wood is perceived as casual feeling by guests. The more color or variation, the more relaxing the feel. In contrast, wood that is the same color and smoother texture is perceived as higher-end and more modern.

TABU Laguna Beach POLYNESIAN The Polynesian inspired exotic ambiance truly feels like an oceanic oasis complemented with a large beautiful wooden table the owners purchased while vacationing in Indonesia that now serves as the community table and a place where large parties can enjoy cocktails and fare from Tabu.

MOULIN BISTRO Newport Beach APPLIANCES This stunning wood refrigerator & ice box commonly used in Bistros in France during the 1950’s procured at the MarchÊ de Saint Ouen flea market outside Paris by Chef Laurent appears to be made from French red oak and brass fittings and adds to the cozy feel of the space.

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F E AT U R E

SEASALT Huntington Beach KENNETH USSENKO DESIGN Wood should always be used as an extension of your brand. SeaSalt uses wood to help guests feel as though they entered a well-weathered beach house. By using wood that is bleached by the sun, soft greys and light brown, the guest is immediately transported.

SCOTT’S RESTAURANT & BAR Costa Mesa In front of the open kitchen at Scott’s Restaurant & Bar is a massive, meandering plank of gorgeous Balinese teak that was found in an Asian bog, covered by water and almost fossilized for an estimated 150 years. It is artistry of the highest order in its natural form and serves as both a community table and remarkable banquet seating for special occasions. It seats up to 22 guests comfortably, and has even accommodated two separate parties of six or more — it is quite versatile. Its dimensions are: 18’ long, 27” wide and 32” high and has been with Scott’s since the fall of 2008 when the owner discovered it through his vast design sources. Sometimes a clean modern space can become too stark and lack the ability to feel comfortable.

BAJA SHARKEEZ Newport Beach

One way to balance a modern interior is to use "liveedge" wood elements. Keeping the organic form of

VANROOY CREATIVE GROUP

wood, the bark and/or undulating edge, contrasts a

Wood light fixtures are a bit rare; however, they can

stark interior and provides a warm comfortable

really set a mood for a restaurant. The bamboo light

environment. A community table or bar is the

fixtures at Baja Sharkeez in Newport Beach

perfect application since it's in direct relation to the

combines the Baja California, beach shack surf

guest’s experience. Too many "organic" elements,

community and nightclub aesthetic to create a truly

though, can cause an environment to feel like a

original brand. The fixtures help to achieve a

cabin or cottage; cluttered.

Polynesian beach vibe.

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THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE

Smokin’ Woods for the Perfect Flavor

Photo Courtesy of RESTAURATION

WOOD FIRED OVENS ARE GAINING POPULARITY IN LOCAL RESTAURANTS, HENCE THE NEED FOR MORE SMOKIN’ WOODS. Even those of you that aren’t lucky enough to have the ovens are making some strides to create your own smoke or fit professional smokers into small spaces. We’ve even seen smokers in parking lots adjacent to kitchen doors. Keep on Smokin’!

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WOOD TYPE

FLAVORING

FOOD PAIRING

Alder

Delicate, Sweet, Mild

Strong Fish/Poultry/Pork

Almond

Sweet & Smoke

Beef/Pork/Poultry/Sausage

Apple

Slightly Sweet, Dense & Fruity, Mild

Beef/Pork/Poultry/Sausage

Ash

Light

Beef/Poultry/Fish

Avocado

Medium

Beef/Pork/Poultry

Cherry

Sweet, Fruity, Smoke

Beef/Pork/Poultry/Game

Citrus

Mild, Smoke, Light, Sweet

Beef/Fish/Poultry

Grape

Smoky

Lamb/Seafood/Beef

Hickory

Strong, Smoky

Smoking All Meats/Cheeses

Maple

Mellow, Sweet

Pork/Poultry/Wild Game/Vegetables

Mesquite

Rich, Earthy

Beef/Fish/Chicken/Wild Game

Oak – Red

Santa Maria Style

Tri Tips/Beef

Oak – White

Medium to Strong Smoke

Beef/Fish/Poultry

Olive

Light, Earthy similar to Mesquite

Pizza Ovens/Lamb/Pork/Beef

Peach

Slightly Sweet

Chicken/Turkey/Pork/Fish

Pear

Slightly Sweet

Poultry/Game Birds/Pork

Pecan

Medium, Fruity

Briskets/Steaks/Chops/Fish

Walnut

Strong Smoke

Beef/Wild Game

Wine Barrel

Distinct Wine

Tenderloins/Lamb/Wild Game/Pork

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THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE

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T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S

SINCE

ARE

wood to minimize damage caused by cutting and

chicken to raw beef. Color-coded cutting boards

UTILIZING WOOD SERVING PIECES ETC. WE

SO

MANY

RESTAURANTS

of a food grade material (no plywoods). If the

or maintaining different cutting boards for each

BROUGHT YOU A FRIENDLY REMINDER FROM

wood begins to become damaged from cutting,

task is not required, because of proper cleaning

THE ORANGE COUNTY HEALTH CARE AGENCY.

the board can be sanded smooth. The purpose

and

While we do not prefer one type of cutting

for maintaining a smooth surface is to make

recommended in order to avoid accidental cross

board material over another (wood vs. plastic), we

cleaning and sanitizing more effective.

contamination.

do provide the following guidance based upon

gouges or cuts in the board surface allows for

Cal Code, Section 114177 — “Cutting Surfaces”

areas where bacteria can hide and multiply.

Deep

(Surfaces such as cutting blocks and boards that

steps;

however,

it

is

SOMETIMES DAMP CLOTH TOWELS ARE PLACED BETWEEN A PREP TABLE AND

are subject to scratching and scoring shall be

ALL CUTTING BOARDS MUST BE CLEANED

BOTTOM OF THE CUTTING BOARD TO AVOID

resurfaced if they can no longer be effectively

AND SANITIZED WHEN CROSSING OVER FROM

THE

cleaned and sanitized, or discarded if they are

ONE FOOD TYPE TO ANOTHER

DURING THE CUTTING PROCESS

not capable of being resurfaced).

20

sanitizing

CUTTING

BOARD

FROM

SLIPPING

For example, when cutting raw chicken and

Use instead rubber mats that are designed for

then

this purpose and can be easily cleaned and

proceeding

to

cut

raw

vegetables.

CUTTING BOARDS MUST REMAIN SMOOTH

Cleaning and sanitizing must also occur in-

sanitized. Avoid any absorbent material that can

AND IN GOOD REPAIR

between different species of raw meat types.

harbor bacteria from raw meat juices running off

If they are wooden, the wood must be of a hard

For example, transitioning from cutting raw

the cutting board.

www.great-taste.net | MAY | JUNE 2015


THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Raising The Bar: Barrel Aging by James Wood but nothing to say how long it can be there. Although ultra-aged spirits are rare and very expensive, the quality is second to none. Maturity doesn’t suit everyone though. Not all liquors are good candidates for long-term barrel aging. Spirits that have prominently rich, spicy characteristics (like bourbon, Scotch, and rum) are better served by decades in a barrel, as those notes become more pronounced. Lighter (let’s say "younger at heart") spirits like tequila and gin don’t gain as much by aging. Tequila Reposado is only aged for 2 months to a year, Tequila Blanco isn't aged at all, and aged gin is a rarity. Today’s trends see more and more use of barrel aging. From cocktails to beer, even cigars. The effects of the wood, and more notably what was in the barrel before, add complexity and smoothness to cocktails and beer while cigars become extremely intense with more of the natural flavors of the tobacco shining through.

EVEN

DRINKERS

production was in overdrive due to the sugar

RECOGNIZE THAT SOME SPIRITS SPEND TIME

THE

MOST

NOVICE

trade refining their product. They had to store the

AGING IN A BARREL. But why? If you have ever

rum and of course our trusty barrel was perfect.

smelled paint thinner, then the answer is simple.

Like all distillates, the juice was like firewater

Distilled spirits, if left untreated will taste

when it went in the barrel. After a handful of

terrible and will do irreparable damage to your

forgotten barrels were found several years later by

body. In the case of vodka and gin that treatment

workers they were treated to a sensory overload of

is to dilute the distillate with water to 80 proof

flavors and aromas. The rum was no longer harsh

but brown spirits are different.

in taste and the fiery burn had gone.

BARREL AGED KENTUCKY ORANGE BLOSSOM

As with most things in the history of spirits,

So how does it work? There are chemical

barrel aging came about by accident. In the Early

compounds in the wood of the barrel that add

days of Whiskey production by Moonshiners in

flavor and aroma to whatever you put in it. Over

Scotland, the product was transported around

time these seep into the liquid to create complex

the country in barrels that had “Sheep Dip”

flavors and softness. To add another level of

1L

Four Roses Yellow Label Bourbon

stamped on them. Sheep dip, a highly toxic

intensity, the barrels can be toasted or charred.

1L

Elder Flower Liquor

liquid was used to clean the wool from freshly

As the liquid inside the barrel moves in and out

1L

Italian Sweet Vermouth

sheared sheep; so the English didn’t think to

of the pores of the wood they come into contact

check

the

barrels

for

Scotch,

thus

YOU WILL NEED: One

3L Oak Barrel — that has been charred These are available online like the one pictured at www.redheadoakbarrels.com

the

with the charring. The most notable flavors that

Moonshiner avoided paying taxes. Over time, the

come out of this process are vanilla, caramel,

Carefully pour the liquid in the barrel and leave in a cool spot away from direct sunlight for three

Scottish noticed that the longer the whiskey

clove, fig and coffee. Spirits such as Bourbon

months (90 days - 1 year). Once the 90 days or

stayed in the barrel the smoother it became.

and Scotch have some specific laws about the

your preferred time is up, pour contents of barrel

During Colonial times in America, east coast rum

minimum time the liquid can spend in a barrel

into clean swing top bottles and store as normal.

MAY | JUNE 2015 | great taste

21


THE BIZ: BEVERAGES

Wood: Man’s Influence

ABOUT THE WRITER Sonya's lifetime experiences and love of wine is brought under one roof at the Colony Wine Merchant located in Downtown Anaheim.

by Sonya Kelsen

It is here with her husband where they will share their excitement for everything wine related from storytelling to education.

WE KNOW WINE HAS BEEN MADE FOR

tannins so early in the fermentation process will

THOUSANDS OF YEARS. IT WAS JESUS’ FIRST

round out the tannins and give you a lush

MIRACLE IN THE BIBLE, TURNING WATER

mouthfeel without affecting the backbone. This

INTO TO WINE. We also know that wine can

is an expensive process (effects bottle cost $$)

happen on it’s own, spontaneously by merely

but one that is worthwhile if you, your guests or

introducing yeast (which exists in vineyards

clients appreciate luscious, full-bodied round

naturally) to the sugars in the fruit. Let the

whites and reds.

fermenting begin.

22

OAK BARREL SHOWCASE WINES

Once the wine is made the aging process

It was not until man’s influence on this

begins. French and American oak barrels (60

ALPHA OMEGA

miracle of nature did we start producing fine

gallon) are most commonly used world-wide.

Try the Unoaked Chardonnay next to the Barrel

wine. Once we figured out what regions were best

French oak is elegant, subtle and is known for

Fermented Chardonnay, you will really see the

suited for specific varietals and what vats were

vanilla notes while American is forward, broader

impact of oak when tasting side by side.

best for fermentation and aging, did our

and is known for dill characteristics. One must

Distributed by American Wine of SWS

influence on quality really matter.

also consider the heaviness of the toast on the ODETTE ESTATE

Fine wine starts in the vineyard, there is no

wood. When light, medium or heavy toast is

getting around that. Once the painstaking

chosen, the impact on the nose and palate will

These wines have new oak written all over them.

process of tending to the vines and harvesting is

range from subtle to bold. That also goes for

Taste the Adaptation Petit Sirah and Odette

over, the winemaker’s choices will impact the

aging in new or neutral (aged) barrels.

Cabernet. Forward, balanced and yummy. Brokered by GrapeVine

outcome tremendously. He or she can choose

Time in oak is as important as all of the above.

natural or commercial yeast for fermentation,

A Chardonnay that is aged two years in barrel will

then type of fermentation vat, concrete, stainless

take on layers of complexities that are impossible

steel or oak and then finally the aging process.

to achieve by aging for a few months. A Bordeaux

“Laguna Vista Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc, the

If oak barrel is chosen for fermentation on

blend that sits in barrel for 3 years before

barrel aging turns classic crisp citrus notes of

whites it will lend a richness that no other can. If

bottling will have an elegance that only time in

Sauvignon Blanc to rich and tropical.

red wine, lets say Cabernet is fermented in oak,

oak can achieve, and this process cannot be

Distributed by Estates Group at Young’s

you are in for an experience. Introducing oak to

rushed.

www.great-taste.net | MAY | JUNE 2015

SONOMA COAST VINEYARDS


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