Presorted Standard U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 271 Tucson, AZ
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
FROM THE EDITOR
CONTENT INSIDE 3 NEW TALENT
THE BIZ 1 8 BACK OF THE HOUSE
Meet the new faces contributing to the Great Taste of Orange County
8
Pizza Pioneers
20
ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS Restaurants in the Orange County
22
non-Italian, non-pizzeria restaurants. We interviewed Joe Manzella, owner of
23
Publisher, Proprietor
RAISING THE BAR
& Chief Editor
Healthy Cheers! Less Guilt,
teri@great-taste.net
D E PA RT M E N T S 7 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH Daisy Tangerine
8
CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Fiscalini’s Purple Moon
F E AT U R E S 1 2 PIZZA IN THE OC
9
PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH Cherimoya
Restaurants everywhere have their own take on pizza. Let’s explore pizza in the OC!
16
CHEF DE CUISINE
RECIPES 1 1 MAIALE PIZZA, ARRABIATA SAUCE, FENNEL SAUSAGE
We speak to Chef Andrew Monterrosa of TAPS Fish House & Brewery
17 18 23
HARISSA-GRILLED SALMON SMOKED SALMON PIZZA GREEN & HEALTHY
On The Cover Pizza lovers can enjoy TAPS’ reimagined pizzas, which have artisanal toppings and are crafted from special dough, baked in a Wood Stone Fire Deck pizza oven at Brea and the new Irvine location. TAPS Fish House & Breweries Farmhouse Pizza (pictured here) consists of roasted garlic, mushroom, chervil, house ricotta, hen egg, and heirloom spinach on a crisped up, deep brown crust baked in a 500-520 degree oven. View the recipe for the Maiale Pizza on page 6 and another of Chef Andrew Monterossa’s delicious dishes on page 14. Photo by A Boring Photo.
2
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
Teri Williams
Lots of Flavor
Manzella Restaurant Group, to further explore the history of this pizza trend.
VIN Pizza and Wine Perfect Pairings
TRENDS 1 0 PIZZA CROSS OVERS Artisanal pizza is a trend among many
OPERATIONS Pizza Delivery Insurance
community are recognized for their milestone birthdays.
Content
TERI’S TAKE here do you eat your favorite pizza; delivery, pick up, dine in, take and bake or make your own? There’s no excuse to eat bad pizza. Some of our personal favorites include Il Dolce, Nick's and Pirozzi. Seems the selections are endless with new choices being added daily. Even Chucky Cheese has upped their pizza game with a new crust recipe and many new toppings. If you haven’t considered adding it to your menu check out the tips offered in this issue from Joe Manzella Proprietor of Manzella Restaurant Group. If you’ve ever wondered just how many restaurants are in Orange County visit or website for a full set of statistics including the percentage that are pizza joints or at least have pizza on the menu. As always, visit www.great-taste.net for more in-depth articles, recipes and cookbook selections. We’re here to spark the fire in your imagination and help keep your restaurant concept evolving! Cheers!
W
INSIDE
SINCE 2000
New Talent
PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
EDITORIAL Chief Editor
ASHLEE FAIRBANKS GENERAL MANAGER,
Teri Williams Contributors Chef Katie Averill Rahm Fama Sonya Kelsen Derek Sena
WATERTABLE AT HYATT REGENCY HUNTINGTON BEACH RESORT AND SPA
James Wood
ART
General Manager Ashley writes: Up until mid 2014, my career in Orange County took me to such notable restaurants such as Newport Beach’s The Island Hotel, Wildfish Seafood Grille and Stonehill Tavern at The
Art Direction/Design
St. Regis Monarch Beach in Dana Point. When I had the exciting opportunity to take on a new position in
Lisa Brink
Las Vegas, I didn’t hesitate to step into a new role. Hired as the General Manager of Katsuya by Starke, the
lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
hotel was doing something no other casino had done on the strip – it was running all of its F&B programs – so my position quickly escalated from managing one restaurant to being involved in nine. Together with the
PHOTO Photography Editor Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com
opening management teams, we launched original programs for the nine restaurants at the property and recruited, hired and trained more than 800 employees. This dynamic position allowed me to take on a thrilling city and master high-volume dining outlets and was, without a doubt, one of the most challenging and rewarding steps in my hospitality career. Returning to Orange County was a great choice as I was eager to bring all that I have learned to the flourishing Southern California dining scene. I really took my time to be selective about finding the right opportunity and could not be happier to bring my expertise to the stellar
ADVERTISING Advertising Sales 714-960-0534
Watertable and Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach family. How long were you gone? Left April 2014 and returned May 2015. Where have you been? My work history includes celebrity chef-driven restaurants such as Wolfgang Puck, Michael Mina, and Jean-George Vongerichten and luxury resorts and hotels including Mandalay Bay, MGM
21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net
Grand, The Island Hotel, the St. Regis Monarch Beach, SLS Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas and now the Hyatt Regency family! Watertable at Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort and Spa 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, California, USA, 92648
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
3
INSIDE
New Talent BLAKE BRISSETTE-MATHIAS GENERAL MANAGER OF FOOD & BEVERAGE, KIMPTON’S SHOREBREAK HOTEL Blake Brissette-Mathias is the new General Manager of Food and Beverage at Kimpton’s Shorebreak Hotel. He is responsible for managing all food and beverage operations, including banquets, catering, in-room dining and the Zimzala Restaurant & Bar. Blake came to the Shorebreak last year from the Culinary Dropout - The Yard in Phoenix, Ariz., where he served as General Manager. Blake brings his hip style of F&B and over 10 years of experience to Orange County from cities such as Las Vegas, Chicago and Phoenix. To Blake, great hospitality comes first and foremost. He also strongly believes in individuality—from the people, to the food, atmosphere, and the rest. Shorebreak Hotel and Zimzala Restaurant & Bar 500 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, CA 92648
4
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
INSIDE
Books RON FOUGERAY EXECUTIVE CHEF, SURF & SAND RESORT Combining the resort’s celebrated California coastal fare with his passion for locally sourced ingredients
CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN: TASTE OF THE SEASONS
and sustainability, guests of the resort enjoy topnotch epicurean experiences. Time spent at
A serious candidate for any home cookbook
Philadelphia’s most famous and award-winning
collection, California Pizza Kitchen: Taste
restaurant, Le Bec-Fin proved instrumental for
of the Seasons brings culinary delights of
Chef Ron. In 2009, Chef Ron transitioned to Bibou
each season to the dinner table. After
BYOB, where he worked with Owner and Chef,
some acknowledgements and a short
Pierre Calmels. Bibou garnered a variety of
introduction, the recipes start coming,
accolades during his tenure. Having learned from
beginning with the season of Spring: start
such respected culinarians, Chef Ron has a keen
a spring meal with a Shaved Vegetable
appreciation for food history, which plays a large
Salad—a crisp and tasty color wheel
role in the style and flavors displayed at Splashes.
composed to a mélange of ribbons of
Executive Chef Fougeray writes:
radish, carrots, fennel, and sweet snow
My strengths have always been my strong work
peas—before trying your hand at crafting
ethic and leading by example. When I come to the
CPK’s Hand-Tossed Pizza Dough or Hot-
restaurant in the morning, my goal is always to get
Smoked Salmon with Tarragon Remoulade.
everything on my list accomplished. I never put off
Impress friends at your summer cookout
until tomorrow what I can accomplish today. Efficiency is also a must in my kitchen. I believe in using the
with Fire-Grilled Ribeye with Roasted
whole animal/fish. There is much flavor that can be extracted from meat and fish bones that many chefs
Potato Salad and Oven-Dried Tomatoes,
simply throw away. I have also worked and learned from one of the best sauciers in the world, Chef Georges
washing it down with a refreshing
Perrier. I’m not going to go too far and say that sometimes the student gets better than the teacher, but I
Cucumber Basil Soda. Welcome the fall
think I’m pretty close!
with three-cheese Brussels Sprouts and
Some of my biggest challenges include trying to get other cooks, both young and seasoned, to see my
Bacon Flatbreat. Warm up the winter with
vision and transfer that into their techniques. It takes constant supervision and instruction to ensure the final
a Sunny-Side-Up Potato and Bacon Pizza,
product is correct. I have greatly improved my teaching skills over the years by being hands-on in the kitchen
or amaze that special someone with a
and learning the correct way to teach. I also expect my cooks to be as committed as I am to my profession.
Cedar Plank-Roasted Halibut with
The level of commitment is a difficult one because I truly love my work. It’s tough to teach passion; you either
Caramelized Squash Farro. (Because, let’s
have it or you don’t.
face it: just saying the title of that dish will
What excites you most about our local dining? The produce selection year round is pretty amazing. The locally-sourced fish has been great as well. The weather here also plays into my excitement for OC dining. I think my cooking style matches well with the climate.
impress most!) This cookbook is wonderfully put together, with excellently-composed
When did you come to Orange County? June 2015
pictures of each dish/beverage, excellent
Where have you been? I started at a Italian fine dining restaurant in NJ making brick oven pizzas. I burned
cooking directions to produce a facile
many before getting the art down. I also worked for a popular restaurateur named Steven Starr. He had an
experience, and is made with a strong,
authentic French bistro named Blue Angel that was where I first developed an appreciation for French
beautifully-designed hardback cover.
cuisine. I also worked as a banquet chef of a huge steak house called Table 31. I learned a lot there about cooking for the masses but it definitely was not my cup of tea. The other two establishments, Le Bec-Fin and
To purchase this and other great
Bibou BYOB are listed above in more detail.
publications, visit Great-Taste.net!
Surf & Sand Hotel, 1555 South Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, CA 92651
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
5
INSIDE
Happy Anniversary In the restaurant business, making it to that one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment. In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and applauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations on your milestone birthdays. Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries. Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.
45 YEARS THE CELLAR
10 YEARS BAD TO THE BONE BBQ
When did the restaurant open? November 1970
When did the restaurant open? December 2005
How many employees does the restaurant currently have? 22
How many owners has the restaurant had? 1
To what do you attribute the popularity of the restaurant? A historic reputation for
To what do you attribute the popularity of the restaurant? Everything is slowly
celebrations/special occasion dinners, and a thriving, contemporary bar/beverage
cooked in wood burnings pits over Hickory wood for 12-24 hours, giving it a
program.
smokey flavor that naturally tenderizes the meat. Signature menu items include
To what do you attribute the longevity of the restaurant? The willingness of ownership
baby back ribs, sliced brisket with a dry rub, and Carolina pulled pork served
to adapt.
alongside their popular sides.
What makes your restaurant unique? The most iconic factor would be our Disney-
To what do you attribute the longevity of the restaurant? Serving consistent real
Associated decor with low-volume classic music, polarized by one of the leading bar
authentic BBQ and offering real southern hospitality to guests.
programs in Orange County.
What makes your restaurant unique?
Are there any original dishes that are still on the menu today? A few: Chateaubriand-
former P.R.C.A tie-down roper, Marty Wells who was born and raised in
a single-piece center-cut Filet for two, Escargot, and Shrimp Cocktail. That said, in
Oklahoma. Bad-To-The-Bone-BBQ aims to serve real authentic BBQ with a
the very near future you may see a resurgence of several original dishes brought back
Western rodeo atmosphere and heavily supports the local rodeo.
to life.
How are you celebrating this year? Bad-To-The-Bone-BBQ ran $10 specials in
Do you have any plans in the works for changes or expansion? Absolutely! Expansion
celebration of its' 10-year anniversary.
is fairly difficult as our (underground) space is fairly definitive, however changes are very doable. Our 'brand' will continue to adapt and evolve alongside the industrywhich as you know is changing drastically right now. Upgrades throughout our restaurant will be systematically executed, beginning in the near future.
MAKE CONTACT 31738 Rancho Viejo Rd. San Juan Capistrano, California 92675
Executive Chef/Owner: Marty Wells
MAKE CONTACT 305 N Harbor Blvd. Fullerton, California 92832
General Manager: Rich Ohtsuka Chef de Cuisine: Ris Pedro
6
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
Bad-To-The-Bone-BBQ is owned by
INSIDE
PRODUCE PICK O F
T H E
M O N T H
DAISY TANGERINE IN 2009, IN RIVERSIDE, CA, CITRUS RESEARCHERS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, RIVERSIDE RELEASED A NEW TANGERINE FOR COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION. Named ‘DaisySL’ for its seedless quality, this fruit is absolutely delicious! Finely-textured and extremely juicy, they have a beautifully-sweet flavor when ripe. Like normal Daisy tangerines, they’re great for eating fresh, but can also be used in several applications. The DaisySL’s juice, while tasty on its own, is equally delectable when mixed with other fruit juices or into sauces, desserts, cocktail beverages—you name it! The nutritional benefits further the fruit’s selling point: these tangerines are high in Vitamin C, fiber, potassium, folic acid, and thiamine. When shopping for DaisySL tangerines, it is important to avoid fruits with blemished or soft skin. Like any tangerine, they’re fairly perishable, spoiling after a few days, but refrigerating can extend their lifespan to a week. Look for DaisySL tangerines at your local produce section. Enjoy! (You can thank us later!) The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
7
INSIDE
1 YEAR PANXA When year did the restaurant open? December 2014. How many employees does the restaurant currently have? 25 What is the signature dish? New Mexican Stacked Enchiladas with Hatch Green
CHEESE PICK O F
T H E
M O N T H
Chile and Chimayo Red Chile (Christmas Style). How are you celebrating this year? We celebrated our one year anniversary with a New Year’s Eve Party (including a prix-fixed menu $75 per person including a champagne toast). Any advice or observations based on year 1? Don't ever give up on your dreams, stay the course. Any plans for changes or expansion? Hopefully adding an outdoor patio on Termino Ave. (with neighborhood approval).
MAKE CONTACT 3937 E Broadway Long Beach, California 90803
General Manager: Tom O'Brien Executive Chef: Arthur Gonzalez
1 YEAR PUEBLO When did the restaurant open? November 2014. How many employees does the restaurant currently have? 30 What is the signature dish? We don't really have one - but Paella and a few of our most popular tapas (e.g. Montadito de Costilla - short rib two ways, Queso Fundido - charred goat cheese, Pulpo - grilled Spanish octopus) are staples. How are you celebrating this year? We held a small, in-house celebration with restaurant staff, friends, and family. Any advice or observations based on year 1? We love that our guests have really
FISCALINI’S PURPLE MOON
taken to the Spanish food and wine as well as the overall relaxed, communal approach to dining! We are proud to be ones who are carrying the proverbial flag,
TO SAY THAT FISCALINI’S PURPLE MOON CHEDDAR IS A CREATIVE
and nothing makes us than happier than when our guests create their own little
DEPARTURE FROM THE CHEDDAR NORM WOULD BE A HEAVY
Pueblo in our restaurant.
UNDERSTATEMENT. Fiscalini has been a purveyor of cheeses since 1914.
Do you have any plans in the works for changes or expansion? No changes other
Having been a reputable source of excellent cheddar cheese, Fiscalini took
than constantly improving each day. No expansion plans for Pueblo, but stay
a step further, soaking their traditional cheddar cheese in award-winning
tuned for a potential new concept!
North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, aging this invention for 10 months. This aging process leaves the cheese with a distinct wine-purple color on the outside, and a wonderfully-flavored, creamy finish on the inside. If you have
MAKE CONTACT
a love for great cheese and want to try Purple Moon, consider pairing it with nuts of your choice, and either a nice red wine or a complex, darker beer
3321 Hyland Ave.
(such as a porter, a stout, or a double IPA). The cheese can be used in any
Costa Mesa, California 92626
application where cheddar would be appropriate, such as omelets and quesadillas. You can’t go wrong with this delightful cheese!
General Manager: John Kim Executive Sous Chefs: Tyler Nix & John Beber
For more information about Fiscalini’s Purple Moon Cheddar and other cheeses, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
8
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
INSIDE
PRODUCE PICK O F
T H E
M O N T H
CHERIMOYA MARK TWAIN ONCE SPOKE OF THE CHERIMOYA FRUIT AS “THE MOST DELICIOUS FRUIT KNOWN TO MAN.”
The greenish-brown fruit’s flavor is wonderful: a creamy,
custard-like texture, characterized as having a flavor that blends banana, pineapple, papaya, peach, and strawberry. The fruit can even be chilled and eaten with a spoon, like ice cream. And yet, the majority of Americans have never partaken of such a delicious experience. Cherimoya come from the northern parts of South America—specifically Ecuador, Colombia, Peru, and Bolivia—but now are grown throughout South Asia, Central America, California, Hawaii, southern Europe, and northern Africa. With little investigating of local markets, it’s easy to locate a cherimoya vendor. Next time you’re at your local supermarket, ask the produce manager for cherimoya if you don’t see it. Some advice for picking the fruit: When it’s freshly-ripe, and still has a green skin color, the texture will be like a soft pear. If the skin turns brown, but the fruit itself hasn’t fermented (which is bad), the texture can be custard-like. Refrigerating cherimoya will also turn the fruit brown. The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, propagation and promotion of produce with exceptional flavor. www.theproducehunter.com.
GGET ET FFANATICAL ANATICAL The go go-to -to source for the foodser foodservice vice industr industryy and anyone truly passionate passionate ab out food about food,, food p eople and improving the b ottom line. people bottom
VIEW V IE W TTHE HE M MAGAZINE AG A ZINE ON IP IPAD AD Download the app fr from om iT iTunes unes to your iPad
ALSO AL SO A AVAILABLE VAI LAB LE O ON N TTHE H E WE WEB B at F FoodFanatics.com oodFanatics.com
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
9
TRENDS
TAPS Fish House & Brewery wanted to be many things to many people, so pizza was a natural fit. I also grew up eating my father's homemade pizza so it was a natural. It's also a tremendous lounge item. Were many other (non-Italian) restaurants serving Pizza at the time? When we opened a few spots did pizza: Claim Jumper, Hof's Bar & Grill, BJ's, CPK How many and what variety of pizzas did you offer? The original menu featured six “Wood Grilled Pizzas,” priced from 7.95-8.95. Jambalaya pizza, grilled vegetable, swampfire, quattro formaggio, Little Sicily, and pepperoni. We had six at opening and they ran the gamut of simple cheese-and-veggie to meat and spicy pepperoni, although they have morphed into other presentations...the veggie is now a Margherita and Little Sicily became Maiale. How has that pizza menu evolved? Artisan pies really exploded upon the American dining scene at about the same time as charcuterie exploded. Our menu evolved, but slowly. They were all very popular but there are so many different options that we weren't doing. And we didn't want to do the CPK “popular” ones like BBQ chicken, Thai, etc. How does having Pizza on the menu benefit TAPS? It takes the "threat" out of our concept and makes us more comfortable to guests that see hardwood and white linen and freak out. And they do. Pizza is the king of comfort foods and we want our guests to always feel comfortable in our lounges. Is the dough/crust house-made? Yes, and it has been a community effort amongst the culinary team to perfect it. Why did you choose that style of crust? I wanted one that crisped up and got deep brown. Soft dough, even when cooked properly, is so unappealing. Floppy pizza gives the perception that it's undercooked. What is the average food cost percentage on a pizza? 25 percent, which is actually high, but we use very high quality ingredients; Artisan cheese, cured meat, egg, etc. Why was Pizza such an essential part of the development of TAPS Irvine that DURING THE 1990S, ARTISANAL PIZZA BECAME A TREND AMONG
it prompted you to include a dedicated pizza oven? We actually had a small
MANY NON-ITALIAN, NON-PIZZERIA RESTAURANTS. This influx of pizza
WoodStone oven in Brea for the past 12 years because this is the only true
menu-additions has been interesting to witness, as many of residents of
way to do pizza right. It's also an enormously powerful visual for the guests.
Orange County frequent these specific restaurants for their “boutique” pizza,
For Irvine, we went with a larger oven because we felt the lounge and pizzas
especially when these very restaurants didn’t open with pizza being
would be enormously popular, and it's happened. These ovens also allow that
thematically in-mind. Restaurants, such as TAPS Fish House & Brewery,
area of the kitchen to do other foods besides pizzas: baked oysters,
Claim Jumper, and Hof’s Bar & Grill, among others, pioneered pizza and
artichokes, olives, mom's meatballs. Pizza was always going to be big in
flatbreads being sold at American casual diners. Because of this trend, pizza
Irvine because of the market and the proximity to Newport Beach and pizza
has become a safe addition to menus at a variety of restaurants including
shops there (Mozza, Pizza Nova, etc).
fine dining or even juxtaposed against the cuisine of Asian diners—when,
Any advice for other restaurants that want to add pizza pie to their menus?
otherwise, one might assume it to be too-heavily-contrasting in genre.
Obsess about the dough and manage its consistency. It seems to take on a
We interviewed Joe Manzella, owner of Manzella Restaurant Group, to
10
life of its own: flat one day, fluffy and airy the next. And never, ever take for
further explore the history of this pizza trend on his menus.
granted that the pizza guy truly understands how to bake pizza properly. For
What was the original menu concept when you opened TAPS Fish House &
whatever reason, so many cooks undercook the pizzas as if having a deep
Brewery in 1999? “Celebration of Seafood.”
brown crust means it's burnt. I have to constantly remind them to let the
What prompted you to include pizza on your original menu at TAPS? We
thing cook and that crispy crust is actually okay.
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
TRENDS
MAIALE PIZZA
3T
Crushed red peppers
2C
Red wine
CHEF TOM HOPE, TAPS Fish House & Brewery
1C
Basil - chopped
Bacon, fennel sausage, salami, quanchale, tomatoes,
Add canola oil to a hot pot and heat until hot. Add
mozzarella
the garlic and let it cook until the garlic is golden in color. Add the mirepoix and let it cook. Add the red
PIZZA DOUGH
wine and let it reduce until half of his original
9.6 lb
volume. Add the ground canned tomato and the
All-purpose flour
6 1/2 qt Water - warmed and separated
crushed red peppers. Let it boil for a couple seconds
3 oz
Wheat germ
and finish the sauce adding the chopped basil.
6 oz
Rye flour
3 oz
Active Dry Yeast
FENNEL SAUSAGE
9.6 lb
Caputo flour
1 lb
Ground pork
6T
Barley malt
1/2 lb
Pork fat
Put 1 oz of yeast into 5 1/2 qts of warm water
1t
Red chili flakes
reserving 1 qt for later. Weigh out 9.6 lbs of Caputo
1t
Fennel seed - toasted and ground
flour and add wheat germ and rye flour. Add and
1/3 C
Fennel - caramelized & chopped
combine the yeast mixture with flour in a large
3 Cloves Garlic - roasted
mixing bowl for 1 minute on low speed. Finish the
1t
Salt
dough by adding 1 qt of warm water, all purpose
1t
Pepper
flour and Barley Malt. Mix for another 7 minutes.
Dice all the ingredients into small cubes for grinding
Weigh the dough in boles of 10 ozs.
Chill meat and grinder. Grind all the ingredients, season with salt and pepper and taste. Adjust if it is
ARRABIATA SAUCE
necessary. Mix ground meat and vegetables with the
2 Cans Ground tomatoes
paddle attachment until all ingredients are emulsified.
1C
Garlic cloves
In a small sheet pan, spread the meat mix. Bake in a
3C
Mirepoix (celery, carrots and onions)
conventional oven at 350F for 15 minutes.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
11
F E AT U R E
Pizza in the OC EVEN WITH ITS BEGINNINGS AS PART OF THE ITALIAN FOOD GENRE, PIZZA HAS CREATIVELY GROWN TO GARGANTUAN PROPORTIONS. Restaurants everywhere have their own take on pizza—and why wouldn’t they? Pizza is such a veritable blank canvas for culinary creativity that it is hard to not consider making pizza its own genre. Truly, traditional styles of pizza are marvelous to experience, but—much to the benefit of everyone—the traditional is balanced with the modern. Presently, new restaurants of the most-recent decades tackle this “blank canvas” in a diverse, incredibly-fun way: from the eye-popping smoked salmon and caviar pizzas of Spago, to the flatbread delights of places like zpizza and BJ’s, to the assembly lines of Pieology and Blaze Pizza, there’s something new for everyone to enjoy. For a while, a local establishment offered pizza cones, an ice cream shaped, chewy crust cradled a variety of toppings. Pizza can even be infused with alcohol! (A pizza catering company, Pizzarageous, Inc., has introduced pizzas that involve liquors like vodka and gin.) We at Great Taste magazine have delved deep to explore the aspects of pizza culture, bringing to our readers Q&A interviews, recipes, reviews, and so much more!
URBAN PIE
CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN
SPECIAL DELIVERY
AN ORIGINAL
Since Urban Pie launched in the winter of 2012
How many locations? California Pizza Kitchen has almost 300 restaurants in 16 countries and 218 cities,
they have been dreaming of delivering a frozen
including approximately 200 domestically.
pizza that does not compromise the quality they
Where is your company based? Los Angeles, CA
serve from their mobile ovens. After much due
What year came to OC? 1988
diligence Chef/Owner Jason Winters has developed
How many in the OC? 10
a frozen pizza, blast chilled, then vacuum packed
What makes your product unique? Our focus on innovative dining options made with fresh, imaginative
with no fancy box to hide their beautiful pies. Just
ingredients makes our products unique. California Pizza Kitchen invented both The Original BBQ Chicken
a simple see through, food grade, heat sealed bag
Pizza and the Thai Chicken Pizza and continues to innovate across the food and beverage menu.
to proudly display the crust and ingredients they
Which Pizza do you consider your signature? Why? The Original BBQ Chicken Pizza is a CPK signature
have become known for. It is unlike any other frozen
creation. California Pizza Kitchen was the first to put BBQ chicken on a pizza in 1985. The delicious
pizza on the market in that it is par baked in a 900F
combination of hand-tossed pizza dough, tangy BBQ sauce, grilled chicken and bright, fresh cilantro and
wood burning oven and topped with exceptional
red onion has inspired many other restaurants and chains to develop their own version of the BBQ Chicken
ingredients. Urban Pie pizza sets a new standard for
Pizza over the years.
bringing pie to the people. Currently they offer
Please describe your crust. All of our pizzas are hand tossed before cooking in our open-hearth ovens. Our
classic Margherita and Bee Sting pies. Expect to
3-day resting period and the use of amazing California olive oil and sea salt set our dough apart on flavor
see the Black Garlic, Fun Guy and Brussel Sprouts
and texture.
with Bacon soon. Each Pie is slightly larger than their
When did you start the revitalization of the brand “Next Chapter”? In 2015, CPK celebrated its milestone
standard pies at 14 inches and range from $12.99 to
30th year and unveiled its “next chapter” reinvention – with a modern and rustic new look, an expanded,
$15. They are shipped via fed ex within 24 hours on
seasonally inspired menu and creative, hand-crafted cocktails and premium wines.
dry Ice to the Los Angeles and Orange County areas.
Any other fun facts? Giving back to the communities it serves and promoting positive change is part of
Expect to see online retailers and local stores carrying
CPK’s DNA, from the restaurant level to the Restaurant Support Center (company HQ). Each year, our
the Urban Pie line in the near future. Urban Pie is also
individual restaurants and corporate employees participate in hundreds of community fundraisers and
launching a Pop-Up restaurant called Piesenberg
service projects, or “Inspired Acts.” CPK also partners nationally with the Make-A-Wish Foundation to
where they will be featuring antipasti, hand-made
raise funds and help grant wishes for families across the country.
pastas, vegetable dishes and pizza.
Visit great-taste.net/recipes/ for the CPK Recipe for their signature BBQ Chicken Pizza and Dough Fly-N-Fish
12
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
F E AT U R E
SETTEBELLO NAPOLIATANO AT CRYSTAL COVE How many locations? Eight locations. Henderson and Las Vegas, NV. Salt Lake City and Farmington, UT and Pasadena, Marina Del Rey, Oxnard and Newport Beach in CA. Where is your original location? Henderson, NV What year came to OC? 2014 How many in the OC? Just one What makes your product unique? We try and re-create the original pizza as it is made in Naples, Italy for the past 200 years. We use a handmade wood fired pizza oven made by a third generation oven builder in Napoli, Italy and cook our pizzas at 900F for about 60 seconds. Our head Pizza maker has more nearly 20 years of experience making Pizza Napoletana and both he and myself were trained in Napoli by renowned pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia. Which Pizza do you consider your signature? Why? Our signature and the classic pizza from Napoli is the Marcherita; crushed Italian Tomato, Fresh Mozzarella, Parmigiano, Basil and Olive Oil. Describe your crust. Our crust is very unique. Soft and foldable, our dough rises and matures for about 24 hours. It is a soft/wet dough that produces the signature softness and char of a Pizza Napoletana.
PIZZERIA SAPORI PERFECT PIE EXPANSION What year did the original restaurant open? Sapori opened in 1989 and in 2015 we expanded and added the Pizzeria. Why did you decide to add a Pizzeria? I always wanted to do a pizza that was completely different from the rest. What makes your pizza concept unique? Our concept is unique because unlike most others, we use a pre-ferment process for our dough. Which Pizza do you consider your signature? Why? The pizza that I consider signature is the Ortolana, because I love the combination of red and yellow bell peppers with sausage and onions. Please describe your crust. Our crust is crunchy but light, digestible, and fragrant. What kind of oven do you use? The oven that we use is a Stefano Ferrara oven that I consider to be the Ferrari of wood burning ovens. It was tailored to our needs. Hand-made in Naples, with materials unique, for instance the floor is made from a stone called Biscotto di Sorrento which enables the humidity of the pizza dough to be absorbed avoiding it getting burned on the bottom. It took five months to get it here and heavy machinery was necessary to get it in the restaurant; other than that it was simple. What temperature do you use to cook your pies? Our pizzas are baked at 800F for two minutes. Do you have any unique pizza and beverage pairings? Our Ortolana pizza goes well with a Chianti wine and the Diavola pizza goes well with a IPA beer.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
13
F E AT U R E
READY-MADE INGREDIENTS by by Rahm Fama US Foods, Food Fanatic THROUGH DIRECT CONNECTIONS WITH RESTAURANTS AND CHEFS NATION-WIDE, US FOODS AND THEIR CHEF CONSULTANT FOOD FANATICS HAVE DEVELOPED A FULL LINE OF READY-MADE CRUST, TOPPINGS, SAUCES AND CHEESE FOR ALL PIZZA LOVING ESTABLISHMENTS. Some of their clients utilize ready-made ingredients every day while others use them occasionally for special promotions, catering gigs etc.
OGGI’S SPORTS BREWHOUSE PIZZA
Lets start with the base-ics: For the “hand stretched” purists a variety of sizes of our Roseli dough balls for you to
SPORTS-THEMED, FAMILY-FRIENDLY
proof and bake eliminating the need to weigh-out your
How many locations? We currently have 14 full-service restaurant and bar locations known as Oggi’s Sports
product while keeping your food costs in line are available.
I Brewhouse I Pizza, and two locations of our fast-casual concept Oggi’s Pizza Express, as well as multiple
For the built-for-speed set there are several sizes and
exciting projects in the pipeline.
shapes of pressed out crusts from our Roseli thick par-
Where is your company based? Oggi’s originated in Del Mar but our headquarters is now in San Clemente.
baked to the Ultra-thin cracker crusts and even a Chef’s line
What year came to OC? January 2000
of hand stretched Naan for non-traditionalists.
How many in the OC? 4 (Fullerton, Garden Grove, Mission Viejo, Orange)
Sauces range from the classic Rykoff Sexon San Marzano
What makes your concept unique? Oggi’s Sports I Brewhouse I Pizza combines their own award-winning
style tomato or Molly’s Kitchen Alfredo sauce to more
micro-brewed beers with delicious, made-from-scratch pizza and a sports-themed, family-friendly
adventurous flavors like a Chef's line hollandaise, Metro Deli
atmosphere. Guests can catch a game and enjoy the company of friends and family without compromising
balsamic onion glaze, Roseli Kale pesto or even a spicy
on excellent food and remarkable beers. Oggi’s Pizza Express brings its guests handcrafted pizzas customized
Carolina Reaper. Mix and match for more exciting flavors.
to their specifications in a convenient fast-casual environment, along with the famous microbrews.
Stray from the basics: Sometimes all you need to spice
How has the concept evolved since inception? Throughout the years, the Oggi’s personality has evolved from
up a pizza is something a little different. Cross Valley Farms
a mom-and-pop pizzeria-style restaurant, to a locals favorite sports themed brewhouse, complete with full bar
and Monarch labels offer a variety of incredible ready-to-use
and a full array of televisions and monitors, large and small. Oggi’s is a terrific choice to watch your favorite
produce to excite those lost in a general malaise. Try the
teams in sporting events while enjoying great food and fun with family, friends and colleagues. Oggi’s success
superfood slaw with some Thai peanut sauce for an Asian-
was compounded with the addition of convenient delivery and full-menu online ordering services, and was
flair, shaved Brussels sprouts or oil packed roasted
topped off with its introduction into the brewing industry.
tomatoes with garlic to elevate an old classic.
What makes your product unique? The combination of high-quality, freshly-handcrafted pizzas paired with
In addition to prepped and chopped fresh produce you
Oggi’s own award-winning microbrews make for a unique pairing that is hard to surpass.
can find many awesome proteins including our Chef’s Line
Which Pizza do you consider your signature? Why? Our signature pizza is the Oggi’s Special. It features all
smoked pork belly or shoulder, Spanish spiced chorizo, sous
your favorite toppings—spicy pepperoni, savory Italian sausage, and fresh veggies like mushrooms, red
vide short rib, whole muscle smoked brisket, coarse
onions, green bell peppers, and chopped tomatoes… the works! It’s the perfect pizza to enjoy with a cold
chopped or for the traditionalist, we offer a wide variety of
beer and a good game.
pepperoni, sausage, ham and bacon. And of course, how could we leave out the cheese! From
Please describe your crust. Oggi’s signature hand-tossed dough is stretched to a medium-thick pie base, with just the right amount of soft-chewiness in the center and a flavorful, crunchy crust. Thin-crust and gluten-
a 5 cheese blend to a crumbled chevre, Glenview Farms and
free options are also available.
Roseli have a cheese for every pallet. Try sharp cheddar with
What kind of oven do you use? A rotating carousel bakers’ oven
a little corned beef or maybe queso fresco on a pulled pork
What temperature? We can’t give away all of our secrets but we cook it at very high temps, over 500F.
and chile verde pizza.
Do you have any unique pizza and beverage pairings? We just launched our current LTO featured menu
Whether you need something out of the box for a special
highlighting our Jamaican Jerk Chicken Pizza that pairs well with our Oggi’s Torrey Pines IPA beer.
event or need to please your regulars on a Thursday night US Foods has a myriad of Food Fanatic tested, high quality
Visit great-taste.net/recipes/ for the Oggi’s recipes for their signature Jamaican Jerk pizza and their Chicken
ingredients to bring consistency and ease to your business.
Tequila Pasta
14
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
Cha Cha's Latin Kitchen
F E AT U R E
HOTEL IRVINE
ZPIZZA
HOTEL DELIVERY
BRICK OVEN BAKED
Why did you decide to offer room service pizza
How many locations? 86 with international sites
delivery? One of the exciting things about ordering
Where is your company based? Irvine, CA
pizza when you're at home is the fact that you don't
How many in the OC? 17
have to lift a finger or move a muscle to get it
What makes your concept unique? Artisan-inspired pizza, brick-oven baked. We use high-quality ingredients
delivered straight to your door. We wanted our guests
and offer gluten-free and vegetarian options. We recently introduced a new concept called the zpizza Tap
to have that same experience while they're staying
Room in L.A., which includes 12+ self pour taps with a modern look and feel.
with us. One quick text or a phone call and made-to-
How has the concept evolved since inception? Our founder Sid is still heavily involved in menu development
order pizza shows up right at your guest room door.
and sourcing ingredients. We have expanded the menu beyond pizza, and recently introduced the new Tap Room.
What makes your product unique? The combination
What makes your product unique? The quality of our ingredients—from caramelized onions to cremini
of speed and quality. We can make any of our pizzas
mushrooms to our new crust—zpizza knows that the best-tasting food starts with ingredients.
in under five minutes, but nothing is assembled in
Which Pizza do you consider your signature? Why? Napoli is our top selling creation—it’s simple, yet flavorful.
advance. We're making pizzas to order, but guests
It features our house-made roasted garlic sauce, mozzarella, Roma tomatoes, parmesan and fresh basil.
don't have to compromise on a 45 minute to an
Please describe your crust. We just launched an airy, crispier crust made with all-natural non-GMO flour.
hour wait time. We take our mozzarella seriously.
What kind of oven do you use? Brick-oven
We shred everything in house, and our popular
What temperature? 600F
Margherita Pizza is topped with thick slices of
Do you have any unique pizza and beverage pairings? A nice pairing for your zpizza at home is a glass of
water-packed buffalo mozzarella. Plus, you can
sparkling wine with our Tuscan Mushroom pie that's finished with truffle oil.
customize your pie any way you want. Which Pizza do you consider your signature? Why? We'd have to go with what's most popular, which is the good old-fashioned pepperoni. It never goes out of style and is always a go-to favorite for our guests. Describe your crust. We leave the dough to the experts and order them pre-made. We opt for a hand-tossed, rustic-style crust that is a good balance between a thick doughy crust and a Kitchen crunchy thin crust. We alsoBrunos offerItalian a gluten-free
crust made from rice flour. What kind of oven do you use? Turbo Chef Pizza Oven. It can turn out a pizza in two minutes and 10 seconds at 525F. How many do you estimate are eaten in rooms per month? More than 300 pizzas per month are delivered to guest rooms, which is about 20% of the overall number of pizzas we make per month for our guests. Do you have any unique pizza and beverage pairings? Marketplace is filled with specialty beverages for guests to pair with their pizza. It's not often you can pick your pizza and pick your favorite pint of beer to go, but we have a great variety of craft brews from local vendors like Bootleggers Brewery and Blackmarket Brewing Co. A pale ale or IPA are the most popular selections with any of our pizzas.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
15
CHEF DE CUISINE ABOUT THE WRITER Chef Katie Averill Katie@eatstreetculinary.com (714) 563-2334 EAT STREET 270 S. Clementine St. Anaheim, Ca 92805
Photos by A Boring Photo
Chef Andrew Monterrosa by Chef Katie Averill CHEF ANDREW MONTERROSA HAS FOUND A HOME AS THE HEAD CHEF
Andrew has worked. With a history of working at several Roy’s restaurants,
OF TAPS, IRVINE. Having been open just seven months, the restaurant is
where the kitchen and chef focus on making daily menus and on what the
packed at lunch time, which is considerable considering the large size of the
“kitchen wants,” the philosophy of TAPS Irvine is that THE FAMILY is
dining room, which requires a hefty kitchen staff of twenty-two. Similarities
comprised of the kitchen plus the guests. Customer feedback is paramount
can be found between TAPS Corona (where he worked previously) and TAPS
to Chef Andrew, who checks in with customers every night—not to make an
Brea (as far as the oyster bar, restaurant layout and a handful of must-have
appearance, but to get sincere, honest feedback from customers. The Irvine
signature dishes), but TAPS Irvine is unto itself, a unique experience. Chef
clientele prefers healthier dishes that pop with flavor. He is flexible and
Andrew takes freedom with his menu and includes food with ethnic
amenable, which are adjectives not often used when describing chefs.
ingredients influenced by his background (a mother from Belize and a Japanese father from El Salvador), as well as experience cooking in Maui. Chef Andrew grew up in Los Angeles, where he was very athletic at an early
buffalo mozzarella, just to name a few. These pies were perfectly thin and
age, but caught the hospitality bug early, while catering during high school. He
bubbly, coming right out of the stone oven, which you can see in their wide
attended Johnson and Wales in Denver, earning a degree in Hospitality and
open kitchen. The tri tip chopped salad was heavenly! I especially loved the
Hotel Management. He realized that after getting his “feet wet” back of the
salad part—I could have just eaten a whole bowl of that chopped salad and
house, that the front of the house was not where he would spend his career,
still been delighted. Not-to- be-missed, however, is a completely separate
but his extensive hospitality education comes into play every day. He found
charcuterie case, in the dining area, where small tapas style plates are
that he was good at cooking and had a knack for stepping in, instructing cooks,
brought out, specifically as ordered.
and then letting them execute their dishes. While at work, he jumps from kitchen station to station (and there are plenty) making many rounds. TAPS Irvine is more customer-driven than any other restaurant where Chef
16
The pizzas I tried were perfectly cooked, with fresh ingredients like house ricotta, heirloom spinach, hen egg (if an egg is on top, I am in), pear and
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
Irvine has clearly welcomed a happening new restaurant and a talented chef who is new to Orange County. As I read over the menu, there are many more dishes that I will be returning to try.
CHEF DE CUISINE
HARISSA-GRILLED SALMON CHEF ANDREW MONTERROSA, TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY - IRVINE
5 oz
White wine vinegar
2T
Sugar
SERVES 6
5 oz
Orange juice – fresh squeezed
Monterrosa serves this popular dish with toasted red quinoa, but any similar grain
4 oz
Canola oil
could be substituted.
8 oz
Preserved lemon peel - cleaned and chopped
Caramelize the shallots and garlic, let cool, and in a blender place all 1 1/2 lbs Fresh salmon - patted dry, skin removed and cut into four 6 oz portions
ingredients except for the canola oil. Blend until smooth; once all ingredients
1/2 C
Harissa sauce
are smooth slowly pour oil into blender and blend until emulsified. Salt and
2T
Olive oil
pepper to taste.
In a small bowl, stir together harissa sauce and olive oil. Marinate the fish for about 20 minutes. Transfer to a plate and season lightly with salt and pepper.
PICKLED CUCUMBER BOUQUET
Depending on thickness of fish, grill approximately four minutes per side, testing
1C
for preferred doneness. Remove to warm platter.
1C
Rice vinegar
1/2 C
White sugar
TO PLATE
1 oz
Lemon zest
Transfer fish filet with spatula to a warmed plate. Add quinoa, garnish with
1C
Red onion - julienne
pickled cucumber and spoon lemon vinaigrette carefully around front of fish. Top
1 oz
Salt (to taste)
with toasted, crushed marcona almonds.
2 oz
Lemon oil
2 oz
Olive oil
Cucumber – sliced long way as thin as possible; recommend mandoline cut
LEMON VINAIGRETTE
Mix all ingredients to make pickling liquid. Add cucumber ribbons. Cover bowl
4 oz
and marinate in refrigerator until ready to use, a minimum of an hour. Use tongs
Shallots - chopped and caramelized
1 clove Garlic - caramelized
to remove cucumber slices and arrange as garnish on the plate.
From the Chef’s Mouth 1ST COOKING OR FOOD-RELATED MEMORY It’s
BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE
TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY
my Grandmother cooking ropa veja, a refried black
KITCHEN Becoming the next Food Network Star is
13390 Jamboree Rd
bean and rice dish from El Salvador.
not that easy and it’s not as glamorous as it’s made out
Irvine, CA 92602
to be. You need to be really passionate and resilient.
www.tapsfishhouse.com
OTHER CUISINES WORKED WITH Japanese, Thai,
HOURS
French, Italian, & Indian.
Monday - Thursday 11am-10pm
FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB Working for the catering department for Whole Foods. FIRST INTERESTED YOU IN THE HOSPITALITY
Friday - Saturday 11am-11pm
INDUSTRY The rush of the kitchen—how it was
YOUR BIGGEST CULINARY INFLUENCES Curtis
controlled chaos, sounds, fire, and smells, all
Mar, Russel Sito, Tom Voss, Manuel Gonzalez. Tom
attracted me.
Hope taught me that perfection and balance are
AVERAGE COVER
the same.
Lunch $20
FAVORITES:
Sunday 10am-10pm
Dinner $35
KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL My 13-inch,
3 WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR CULINARY STYLE
single-side, Japanese chef knife
Layered, consistent, balanced.
KITCHEN APPLIANCE Circulator STYLE Disciplined, motivational, educational.
Togorashi PREVIOUS INDUSTRY EMPLOYERS Roy's Fusion,
Chili
Vesta, Stanley Hotel, Estes park.
OC RESTAURANT Zetton Ramen DISH TO EAT Pork Shoyu Ramen
ADVICE FOR STUDENTS INTERESTED IN THE
JUNK FOOD Pan Dulce (Mexican sweet bread)
HOSPITALITY AND CULINARY INDUSTRY It’s what
RAW INGREDIENT Shallots
you make it to be; nothing good comes easy; it
FAST FOOD Yoshinoya (Beef Bowl)
takes time.
* F US OODS
SPO
DISH TO MAKE Birria, Lamb stew with Roasted
F ST O
N
* Y
CONDIMENT/SPICE Sparrow lane vinegar,
HE C
3 WORDS TO DESCRIBE YOUR MANAGEMENT
RY
COOKWARE Medium sauté pan
SO
B RED
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
17
THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE
Pizza Pioneers EVERYONE LOVES PIZZA—SO MUCH THAT IT’S BECOME A “SAFE” AND TRENDY MAINSTAY OF THE GROWING CALIFORNIA FOOD-CULTURE. Yes— the list of restaurants that serve new types of pizza is quickly growing—but imagine a time where the only places you could get a decent pizza pie was at an Italian restaurant. Much to our benefit, there were pizza “pioneers” that, during the 1980s and 90s, started to experiment, developing new pizza styles utilizing a wider range of toppings. Restaurants like Spago and California Pizza Kitchen bravely opened their doors, challenging the standard for pizza, much to the delight of the foodies of Southern California. It was Spago that shocked the decadent dining world with the Smoked Salmon and Caviar pizza. (A few decades later, this pizza is still an eye-opener!) California Pizza Kitchen broke new ground by being the creators of the heavily-imitated BBQ Chicken pizza. It is hard to imagine a time where BBQ chicken wasn’t a normal pizza topping. We had the pleasure of interviewing representatives from both of these restaurants, to learn more about them (and also to snag a few recipes!):
“When I opened the original Spago in 1982, this quickly became its signature pizza. If you feel decadent, you can top the pizza with Sevruga, Beluga, or Osetra caviar; less expensive salmon roe or just chopped fresh chives are also elegant.” — Wolfgang Puck
SPAGO: THE ORIGINAL SMOKED SALMON PIZZA SERVES 4 1 package Active dry yeast 1 1/2 C
Warm water (105 to 115F)
1T
Honey
2T
Extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for brushing the pizza crusts
3C
All-purpose flour
1t
Salt
METHOD Using a stand mixer: Combine the flour and salt and add it to the yeast mixture (yeast, water & honey) all at once. Mix it together using the paddle attachment, then change to the dough hook. Knead at low speed for 2 minutes, then turn up to medium speed and knead until the dough comes cleanly away from the sides of the bowl and clusters around the dough hook, about 5 minutes. Turn out onto a clean work surface and knead by hand for 2 or 3 minutes longer. The dough should be smooth and elastic. When you press it with your finger it should slowly spring ALL-PURPOSE PIZZA DOUGH Chef Notes - This is a simple bread dough, which you can mix by hand or in a stand mixer. You can roll it out into small pizzas, which are easy to manipulate, or you can make big ones.
18
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
back, and it should not feel tacky. For additional methods and recipes visit www.great-taste.com
THE BIZ: BACK OF THE HOUSE
CALIFORNIA PIZZA KITCHEN: THE ORIGINAL BBQ CHICKEN PIZZA What year was the pizza created? California Pizza Kitchen
Please describe the pizza including the crust. Our
invented the Original BBQ Chicken Pizza in 1985, the
famous Original BBQ Chicken Pizza starts with
year our first restaurant opened in Beverly Hills. It is still
our delicious hand-tossed pizza dough that we top
one of the restaurant’s best-selling items today.
with BBQ sauce, sliced grilled chicken breast, smoked Gouda cheese, sliced red onions and
What was the inspiration? When CPK opened its first
chopped fresh cilantro.
locations in the mid-80s, it invented “Californiastyle” pizza—featuring unique and innovative flavor
How many have been served? California Pizza
combinations using many ingredients diners loved but
Kitchen has served over 15 million pizzas in the
not commonly found on pizza. The BBQ Chicken Pizza
last 30 years.
was inspired by America’s love of barbecue. Since 1985, there have been many imitators, but nothing
Get these recipes and more at great-taste.net/recipe
beats the iconic Original BBQ Chicken Pizza.
California Pizza Kitchen Tips pizza chef in the world. Competitors face off making CPK classic pizzas and a pizza of their own creation. Some of these winning pies make their way onto the CPK menu. What are the top pizza characteristics that require rigorous practice and, in your opinion, make the perfect pizza? The perfect pizza has a crust that’s both chewy and crispy, a well-distributed sauce and high-quality toppings. Does CPK have more than one style of crust? Yes, we have our standard, hand-tossed pizza dough crust as well as a whole-wheat grain crust. We also offer a gluten-free crust that can be ordered on any of our pizzas. Any other fun facts or advice? CPK’s international locations have some locally inspired menu items, with many local favorite dishes and ingredients featured in new ways atop pizzas. Examples include the Roasted Pork Belly How many Pizza pros are on staff? Do you have a special training program?
Pizza at CPK in China, the Unagi Pizza in Japan, the Cochinita Pizza in
Each of CPK’s restaurants has a team of certified Pizza Chefs. It’s important
Mexico and the Gambas al Ajillo Pizza (roasted garlic shrimp) in the
job to ensure that our legendary pies are consistently served hot, fresh and
Philippines.
to our exacting standards. All CPK pizza chefs undergo an extensive training and verification process where they learn to make the hand-tossed pies
Any particular pairings we should chat about? We recommend pairing The
perfect and delicious. This includes knowing all recipes by heart and
Original BBQ Chicken Pizza with CPK’s Fresh Agave Lime Margarita—the
learning how to hand-toss the dough. In fact, each year CPK hosts an
lime is a great accent to the cilantro! If you’re looking to pair with a beer,
intense competition at its annual employee conference to find the best CPK
we recommend the Blue Moon Belgian White Ale.
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
19
T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S
PizzaSurance by Jesse Parenti
ABOUT THE WRITER
BEING A SMALL BUSINESS OWNER IS
form, and a signed driver agreement allowing
ALREADY DIFFICULT and understanding what it
future MVR’s on their behalf in future are all
takes to effectively protect your company can be
needed. Monitoring these documents is essential
Jesse Parenti is the Hospitality Director for Stratton
overwhelming. The day-to-day administration for a
as updated filings both semi-annually and
Agency and Program Director for their division
pizza delivery operator is cumbersome and is time-
annually, are necessary for audits to comply with
PizzaSurance. He comes from over 25 years of hands on
consuming, focusing to stay in compliance with
insurance carriers. If a drivers insurance or
experience in the restaurant industry from fine dining to
your insurance carrier. One is required to keep
drivers licenses expires, you could have a gap in
pizzeria establishments and over 10 years of risk
record of their current employee driver’s license,
coverage putting your company directly in harm’s
management experience specializing in Hospitality and
driving record, and personal auto insurance. All
way of a lawsuit.
Pizza delivery. Visit www.pizzasurance.com or give us a
the time and effort put into maintaining this
call at 888-888-4501 so we can set up a demo!
information can be saved when working with a
How do you monitor all of this?
broker who specializes in pizza delivery.
PizzaSurance was created based on the needs of the industry, with a vision that there has to be a
Why is pizza delivery insurance so hard to deal with?
better, more-efficient process. Our proprietary
When you are a pizza delivery operator, your
software, Strattrax, was designed to help manage
employees are out on road deliveries for you in
and track delivery drivers for you 24-hours-a-day,
either a commercial vehicle registered under the
365-days-a-year, from anywhere you have an
business name, or driving their own vehicle
internet connection.
requiring the business owner to carry Non Owned
Strattrax sends out notifications by email or
Auto (NOA) coverage. NOA covers liability over
fax, 14, 7, and 1 day before expiration (ex. proof
the personal auto policy held by the employee
of insurance or driver’s license). At day zero,
during business and kicks in if the claim is
another notification alerts the management that
denied, or only partially covered by the personal
the driver is out-of-compliance, and is not able to
auto carrier.
drive. Being able to anticipate and be ahead of expirations is necessary to avoid gaps in
Why is this so difficult for pizza delivery
coverage, allowing management to be proactive,
operators to track?
as opposed to reactive. Sometimes employees
Driver compliance and regulation is one of the
come and go. They may be a seasonal worker
most difficult parts of this industry. The
attending school out of the area. Instead of
documentation required to approve a driver varies
having to resubmit all the paperwork every time
carrier to carrier, but all are strict concerning
they return to work after summer, Strattrax has
activity on Motor Vehicle Reports (MVRs). The
the ability to archive the driver and reapprove
other major factor is the required paperwork that
them as soon as they return, getting them back
is needed to approve a driver. A copy of their
on the road the same day as long as their
MVR, proof of insurance, a vehicle inspection
information hasn’t expired.
20
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
T H E B I Z : O P E R AT I O N S
HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control
The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
21
THE BIZ: VIN
Perfect Pairings by Sonya Kelsen
ABOUT THE WRITER Sonya grew up in the restaurant business working under her father, chef/owner of a number of restaurants in Pto. Vallarta, Mexico. She made her way to California to follow her passion for wine. In her early OC career she managed restaurants and beverage programs and became a certified sommelier. Since then Sonya has had the honor of managing distribution, sales, and marketing for a number of wineries (Turnbull Wine Cellars, Alpha Omega Winery, Quintessa, Monteverro etc.) state wide and on a national level. Sonya is blessed enough to bring her years of experience under one roof with her husband Mike. In late 2014 they opened Colony Wine Merchant where they welcome guests as they were welcoming them into their home.
IF YOU OWN, MANAGE, SERVE, OR FREQUENT
There are two schools of thought when pairing
AN ITALIAN RESTAURANT, you’ll notice that,
wine with pizza: The first is finding a simple wine
the “under $50” on your wine list:
not only is pizza the expected number one seller,
with nice fruit and great acidity (such as Barbera
Marchesi di Barolo Barbera d’Alba Ruvei –
it is also likely the most profitable on the menu.
or Dolcetto) to pair with Margarita style pizza.
distributed by American Wines
Although this rustic flatbread’s origins date back
The second would be choosing a fruit-forward,
Seghesio Barbera, Sonoma – distributed by The
centuries and believed to be from Naples, pizza
jammy, spicy varietal, such as Zinfandel, to pair
Estates Group
is, undoubtedly, an American favorite.
with sausage and peppers (meat lovers, if you
Borgogno Dolcetto d’Alba – distributed by
will).
American Wines
No matter the time of year or the occasion,
22
from $8 to $12 by the glass and find a spot in
pizza will make a stuffy group more at ease, a
The wines you select to pair with pizza should
fussy crowd more comforted and any sports event
be as accessible and profitable as the pizza on
distributed by Wine Warehouse
more fun. The wines you serve with these pies
your menu. These wines should encourage your
Primativo Castello Monaci Piluna – distributed by
should have the same effect. Whether you are
guests to order a second glass just as effortlessly
Southern Wines & Spirits
serving a thin crust with prosciutto and truffle oil,
as they grab another slice. Here are some classic
Rudy Zinfandel, Napa Valley – brokered by
or thick crust with marinara and pepperoni, there
Italian recommendations as well as fruit forward
Vintage Wines
is a perfect Italian or American wine to pair.
California selections that can easily be poured
www.great-taste.net | JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016
Palmina
Dolcetto,
Santa
Maria
Valley
–
THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR
Healthy Cheers! Less Guilt, Lots of Flavor by James Wood
FIVE, FOUR, THREE, TWO, ONE: HAPPY NEW
Each of these ingredients’ properties lend
YEAR! Ok, now that’s over, it’s time to set out
themselves to certain flavor profiles in a drink.
GREEN DRINK
and break every resolution that you made to
For example, kale has spiciness that works really
Glass: Collins
yourself. However, you can feel a little less guilty
well with tequila—celery provides a savory note
Garnish: Flamed lemon peel
by creating a cocktail menu that incorporates the
to your cocktail—beets add a sharpness that can
3 oz
Fresh-juiced kale
latest craze that is juicing.
be tamed and balanced with a molasses-based
2 oz
Organic gin
Spirits were originally marketed as a cure-all
aged rum. Of course, there is also the added
1 oz
Elderflower liquor
for various ailments such as headaches,
benefit of getting your daily recommended dose
1 1/2 oz
Lemon juice
depression, fatigue and a plethora of other
of vitamins, so, in other words: a double win.
1 oz
Agave syrup
1 oz
Soda water
issues. It would seem as common sense then to
The skinny Margarita craze was cute for a hot
combine a cure-all with the healing powers of
minute, but with the amazing array of fresh produce
Method: Combine all ingredients into a cocktail
wonder foods such as kale, beets, celery, and
available to us, it is time to elevate past tequila,
shaker with ice. Shake and strain into Collins
living algae.
lime juice and stevia packets, to an elegant, well-
glass. Top with soda water and garnish with
thought “health conscious” cocktail.
flamed lemon peel or a baby kale leaf.
If you think about it, it makes total sense.
Books
THE KITCHEN WORKSHOP’S PIZZA: HANDS-ON COOKING LESSONS FOR MAKING AMAZING PIZZA AT HOME Let’s be real. You might ask yourself, with the imposing amount of pizza cookbooks out there: “What could (yet) another one bring to the table?” You might be that fledgling, beginning-at-home cook that wants to cultivate one of the most important skills one could have: cooking. And doing it well, too. Well? Easier said than done, right? The Kitchen Workshop’s Pizza: Hands-on Cooking Lessons for Making Amazing Pizza at Home is that book. Chef Ruth Gresser’s instructions are well-written, facilitating an easy experience for making superb, gourmet-quality pizza. The book is methodized into easy-to-understand levels, staring with the basics at level 1 (including seven variations on the tomatocheese pizza and recipes for doughs). Levels 2 and 3 have classic recipes for the growing intermediate, along with some original recipes that are used at Ruth’s award-winning Washington, D.C. restaurants. By levels 4 - 7, the learning experiences advance, as lessons on sauces, protein toppings, vegetable toppings, and more, provide insight for the chef to tactfully create new, creative pizza works-of-art. From levels 1 through 7, the instructions are so comprehensive and clearlywritten, that it’s a guarantee of success! Interested? To procure this and other great cookbooks, find us on Great-Taste.net!
JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016 | great taste
23