Great Taste Magazine July August 2016 Issue

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FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT INSIDE 4 NEW TALENT

THE BIZ 2 4 GREAT TASTES

Meet the new faces contributing to the

Discover the Perfect Michelada.

25

Great Taste of Orange County Teri Williams

7

Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS

26

community are recognized for their

TERI’S TAKE

S

outhern California is very lucky to have such great restaurants and industry professionals that are willing to explore new techniques and develop new procedures in order to bring us the best quality food at the best price possible.

Many hours of their personal time is spent in research and development and it’s evident when they bring their excitement and their product to the table for us to share and sometimes critique.

Last issue, some of Orange County’s top bar men and women shared their expert knowledge to introduce new flavors and techniques to the bar. We got firsthand thanks for that issue from barman Jordan Fernandez at Playground in Santa Ana. He read the magazine cover to cover and proudly presented Pea Jus. He got that idea from Amber Billiard from Five Crowns who shared her commitment to seasonal flavors and ingredients.

This issue we got input from Chefs who were willing to share their discoveries in the seafood and the in-house dry-aging arenas.

It’s a testament to their passion and their professionalism that they share their knowledge gained with you, our Great Taste industry audience.

Keep the delicious news coming!

RAISING THE BAR I’ll have a Bloody Mary.

Restaurants in the Orange County

teri@great-taste.net

Content

VIN Host a Wine Tasting at Home.

milestone birthdays.

D E PA RT M E N T S 8 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH

TRENDS 1 1 DRY-AGED BEEF

Persian Cucumbers

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Local Chefs “meat” the challenge and dry-age in-house.

CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Lye Cross Vintage Cheddar

10

F E AT U R E S 1 6 SEA TO PLATE

SEA | FARM | TABLE Chef Gabe Caliendo shares his favorite Chef’s Tables.

Do you have what it takes to shop direct

RECIPES 2 1 CHILES RELLENOS 2 1 SALSA RANCHERA

with the Fishermen?

20

CHEF DE CUISINE Marco Zapien – Zapien’s Salsa Grill

On The Cover The Molcajete for Two at Salsa Grill featurescarne asada, grilled chicken, sautéed shrimp, chorizo, nopales, queso fresco, chile torreado, grilled green onions and fresh Salsa Ranchera with the treasured house-made chorizo lining the bottom. View the recipe below and others

by Marco Zapien of Zapien’s Salsa Grill on page 21. Photo by Michael Rutt Photography

HATCH CHILE MARINADE 1/2 C

Apple cider vinegar

METHOD

1/2 C

Orange juice

In a blender or food processer, add all marinade

1/2 C

Beer

ingredients except the vegetable oil. Start blender

1C

Vegetable oil

and drizzle in the vegetable oil.

1T

Melissa’s Hatch Chile powder - Hot

1T

Melissa’s Hatch Chile powder - Mild

Marinate your meats at least overnight in the

1T

Kosher salt

refrigerator.

1t

Pepper

1t

Dried oregano

2

Bay leaves

2T

Garlic - chopped

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

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INSIDE

New Talent

SINCE 2000

PUBLISHER/CHIEF EDITOR/PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Katarina Bassil Debra Bolton Chef Gabriel Caliendo Sonya Kelsen Taryn Sauer Laura Serrano James Wood

ART Art Direction/Design Lisa Brink

PETER LAI CHEF DE CUISINE, WATERTABLE

lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

PHOTO Photography Editor

Peter Lai is the Chef de Cuisine of Watertable, the signature restaurant at Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa.

Michael Rutt michael@michaelrutt.com

In his role, Lai oversees 15 chefs and cooks, participates in menu development and creation, and manages all ordering and purchasing of ingredients and inventory.

Prior to joining the team, Chef most recently served as Culinary Banquet Manager at Hyatt Regency Lost Pines in Austin, Texas. He began his Hyatt career as a Corporate Management Trainee at Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort & Spa in Bernalillo, New Mexico.

Chef Lai got his culinary start at an early age in his family’s traditional Chinese restaurant where he

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess 714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net

excelled in its fast-pace before continuing on to garde manger and banquet positions.

Lai looks forward to introducing his unique style to Orange County.

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646

WATERTABLE AT THE HYATT REGENCY HUNTINGTON BEACH RESORT & SPA 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, CA 92648

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www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869 teri@great-taste.net

INSIDE

New Talent ALAN MARDONOVICH EXECUTIVE CHEF, STONEHILL TAVERN My past experience has included working with some of the most notable contemporary chefs including, Guy Savoy, Charlie Trotter, Gordon Ramsey and Rick Moonen. I was fortunate to learn an incredible amount of technique, discipline, knowledge, respect and love for food. My knowledge paired with my travels around the world have given me the skills to prepare and place dynamic, adventurous and flavorful dishes that I cannot wait to share with this local dining scene.

I returned back home in March of 2016. I was a bit nostalgic joining Monarch Beach Resort considering I remember it when the property was dirt and not yet developed.

The ocean has always had a place in my life whether I’m landlocked in Las Vegas, or back home. I always find it most relaxing near water.

This is my first position with the Mina Restaurant Group. Stonehill Tavern’s location had a natural draw for me considering I grew up in Mission Viejo.

STONEHILL TAVERN AT MONARCH BEACH RESORT One Monarch Beach Resort Dana Point, CA 92629

HELPING OUR CUSTOMERS SUCCEED Food Safety Variety Quality Cost Control

The Fresh Produce Specialists Call Toll-Free: 1-800-252-9165 www.FreshPoint.com www.TheProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

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INSIDE

New Talent TIM DOOLITTLE EXECUTIVE CHEF, BISTANGO Most recently, Doolittle was Executive Chef at Emeril restaurants in Miami and Las Vegas, a tenure that lasted five years, and prior to that was Chef de Cuisine for Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining for three and a half years. One highlight of his stint in Vegas was winning top honors at the Culinary Clash, a competition between 16 of the “sin city� top restaurants. His early years, Chef spent honing his skills at a number of fine dining establishments in the Kansas City area including City Tavern, Stolen Grill, Rivers Edge and The American Restaurant, among others.

Came to OC: January 2016 Where you have lived previously: Kansas City, Las Vegas, Miami BISTANGO 19100 Von Karman Irvine, CA 92612

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INSIDE

Happy Anniversary In the restaurant business, arriving at the one-year anniversary is a huge accomplishment.

In addition to the milestone first year of business, restaurants that have become a staple in the Orange County community should also be recognized and lauded for their outstanding food and service. Congratulations on your milestone birthdays!

Visit great-taste.net for a comprehensive list of local restaurant anniversaries.

Can’t find your restaurant’s birthday? Email info@great-taste.net and we’ll make sure to include your celebrations.

20 YEARS SALT CREEK GRILLE WHAT YEAR DID THE RESTAURANT OPEN? July 9, 1996 HOW MANY OWNERS HAS THE RESTAURANT HAD? Tim McCune is currently the sole proprietor. At the restaurant’s inception, Tim was accompanied by Pete Truxaw.

HOW MANY EMPLOYEES DO YOU CURRENTLY HAVE? Depending on the season between 75 and 100.

WHY IS YOUR RESTAURANT SO POPULAR? Good food, our team and ambiance and one heck of a location.

TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE RESTAURANT’S LONGEVITY? Reinvesting back into the restaurant.

WHAT MAKES YOU UNIQUE? Our unequaled quest to become better each day. It’s our culture, it’s who we are.

ARE THERE ANY ORIGINAL DISHES THAT ARE STILL ON THE MENU TODAY? Yes, the Baby-back ribs,

MAKE CONTACT

Chilean Sea Bass, Filet, New York Strip (different preparation today) and “Dana Point’s Best Cheeseburger”.

32802 Pacific Coast Highway

HOW ARE YOU CELEBRATING THIS YEAR? We hosted a fundraiser for a local charity called The Jessie Rees

Dana Point, CA 92629

Foundation and combined that with our 20 Year Anniversary celebration.

GENERAL MANAGER: Marcos Costas

DO YOU HAVE ANY PLANS IN THE WORKS FOR CHANGES OR EXPANSION? By the first quarter of 2017

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Scott Green

we plan to open the first of many unique craft beer taverns.

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

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INSIDE

Produce Pick of the Month PERSIAN CUCUMBER EVER THOUGHT OF CUCUMBERS AS TASTING MILDLY SWEET? The Persian Cucumber stands above any cucumber variety you have tried before.

They have qualities that set them apart from the common garden cucumber: their skin is smooth and thin, the flesh is crisp, sweet and they are void of developed seeds. They are at their peak of sweetness when they reach four to six inches in length.

Perhaps one of the most historic cucumber, their origins lie in the Fertile Crescent where North Africa meets the Middle East. Persian cucumbers became popular in the United States in the 20th Century, replacing common cucumber varieties at farmers markets and specialty markets as consumers prefer their taste, texture and versatility.

This fruit is available year-round and is well-suited for salads, dips, smoothies, and cocktails. Recipes to try are Melon-Cucumber Salad, Mast-oKhiar (Persian Yogurt & Cucumber dip), Minty Cucumber Honeydew Smoothie, Tomatillo Bloody Mary or a Cucumber Lemonade Mojito.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. www.theproducehunter.com.

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ADVERTISEMENT

INSIDE

Lard and Beef Tallow: Minimally Processed is Best

by Eric R. Gustafson are, indeed, “maximally processed” — to our detriment.

room temperature. When heated, they do not release

The culprits are “process contaminants.” The

free radicals, which have been linked to cancer, as

European Food Safety Authority (EFSA), which is

vegetable oils do. And, they’re minimally processed

responsible for conducting risk analysis on the

– virtually nothing is added, and what’s already there

safety of food in the European Union, recently

(plenty of monosaturates) is good for you. Aside from

released its findings concerning the risks to

the unbeatable flavor, animal fats provide optimum

public health from intake of glycidyl fatty acid esters

nutrition for healthy growth and reproduction, and

(GE), 3-monochloropropanediol (3-MCPD), and

they help the body absorb important nutrients.

2-monochloropropanediol (2-MCPD) esters. These

The science is increasingly clear. With toxic

substances form during food processing — in particular,

additives and carcinogenic compounds putting

when refining vegetable oils at high temperatures.

popular vegetable oils at risk, embracing “minimally

IN FOOD CIRCLES, THERE’S A FAIR AMOUNT OF

The EFSA found “sufficient evidence” that

processed” animal fats isn’t a fad. Given the

BUZZ AROUND THE TERM “MINIMALLY PROCESSED.”

glycidol is genotoxic and carcinogenic. The highest

unsavory alternative, “minimally processed” needs to

The conventional wisdom — which, in this case, is

levels of GE, as well as 3-MCPD and 2-MCPD, were

be how we live. www.coastpacking.com

spot on — is that the less processing, the better.

found in palm oils and palm fats, followed by other

According to one popular meme, “if you don’t

oils and fats. Intake in children under 18 — and

recognize an ingredient, your body won’t, either.” It’s a

particularly infants — was characterized as a

sound way to define our relationship to the food we eat.

potential health concern.

The fact is, however, that “minimally processed”

By contrast, the natural makeup of both lard and

remains aspirational for a substantial portion of the

beef tallow promotes health. Neither contains the

food industry. Far too much of our food supply is

artificial

anything but. Many of the vegetable oils we consume

shortenings. Both are naturally stable and solid at

trans

fats

Cheese Pick of the Month

found

in

hydrogenated

LYE CROSS VINTAGE CHEDDAR SINCE 1952 THE ALVIS FAMILY HAS BEEN MAKING THE FINEST FARMHOUSE CHEESES at Lye Cross Farm in Somerset, England. Vintage cheddar is handcrafted the traditional way. Over 1,000 milking cows supply up to 7 million liters of milk. It’s delivered to the dairy, stored in special tanks and pasteurized. Once, the age old “Cheddaring” process of turning and stacking the curd by hand is completed, the blocks mature for 14 months to produce a full bodied cheddar cheese with a strong, lingering flavor. It’s a hard and natural cheese with a slightly crumbly texture. The rind is shaped like a drum and the color ranges from white to pale yellow.

Vintage cheddar pairs well with white sparkling wine or an oaky Chardonnay, bringing out the soft, mellow flavors in the cheese and the fruitiness of the wine. For beer drinkers, a strong ale over five percent, a medium-dry cider or an apple flavored liquor is perfect. Macaroni and cheese, cheddar scones and bacon, apple grilled cheese sandwiches are a few delicious options to pair. Vintage cheddar enhances the flavor of many savory dishes.

For more information on Lye Cross Vintage Cheddar Cheese and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

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INSIDE

THE BEST TABLE ONE OF MY FAVORITE EXPERIENCES IS SITTING AT THE CHEFS TABLE OR CHEFS COUNTER IN A RESTAURANT. The engagement is often just as important as the food, service, or ambiance and it means different things to different people. For instance, as a Chef when I dine at a Chefs Table or Counter I’m very much interested in the operation as much as the application. I’m constantly reviewing each step of their process and appreciating the complexity of what is being achieved. Non-restaurant guests vary from the TV Food Network fan who is very interested in what is happening in the kitchen to the unaware who are simply there to be entertained, fed, and served upon. Although the Chefs Table/Counter concept is not new, the original and in my opinion still one of the best versions of this is the Sushi Bar. Sushi chefs’ have been on stage for years, performing daily and showcasing their art: the original handcrafted culinary experience.

by Gabriel Caliendo

Well having said all of that, there’s another version of the Chefs Table. The Chefs home table. This is where in many cases the art is first created, tested, and has received the first reviews. This can be the start of something great or the realization of something not meant to see the light of a restaurant.

VP OF RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT, LAZY

This table is filled with friends or family at times and can be empty and reflective other times. The

DOG RESTAURANT & BAR, CORPORATE

Chefs’ table is also a place of humble culinary expectations. It’s where the art is crossed with the basic

EXECUTIVE CHEF

need for nourishment. Nothing fancy, nothing too thought out...just something to eat. It is this type of

NICKNAME Gabe.

meal where the “Iron Chef” style cooking takes place. The Chef opens his or her refrigerator and pantry

HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE

to see what is there. To see what needs to be used up before it starts to lose freshness. To see what

25 years.

ingredients will work together to make a dish.

FAVORITES:

I love going out and enjoying the creations of others. I appreciate the thought behind it all and the

BEER Sculpin IPA.

difficulty involved in the execution. At the same time, I love “working” my own table. I crave seeing

WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot.

my friends and family enjoy the heartfelt food I’ve put on the table. It is very rewarding to be either

COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed

the guest or the host of a Chefs Table. A table that brings people together, develops creativity, and

Oranges with Vodka.

fulfills the basic needs of life. The Chefs Table….the best table.

Here are a few of Chef Gabe’s favorite Chef Tables: • Break of Dawn, Chef Dee Nguyen • Jizake Sushi Bar • Three Seventy Common, Chef Ryan Adams

10

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

TRENDS

A Marbled Marvel

DRY-AGED BEEF IS SAID TO BE ONE OF THE

by Taryn Sauer

strawberries and so tender, it hardly needs a knife.

MOST LUSCIOUS STEAKS, enhancing hidden flavors in the meat, such as its nutty and earthy aromas— some have even been reported to produce hints of As opposed to what most consumers have come to know as wet-aged beef, dry-aged beef remains, in some way, superior in quality and taste—but all

Photo by A Boring Photo The Catch - Anaheim

of that depends on who’s doing the chewing.

As West Coast Prime Meats’ Business Development Specialist, John Reese puts it: “[The taste] is all subject to different points of views and palates of the end user.”

Wet-aged beef is either typically vacuumsealed for a four-day transit to the local grocer, or refrigerated for a minimum of three weeks, able to soak in its own juices, producing a metallic-like flavor normally associated with most restaurantgoers’ dining experience.

Dry-aging meats is rich in tradition—a process associated with the timelessness of “old world” cooking. And contrary to wet-aged beef, it holds the potential to be even more moist due to its higher fat-to-meat ratio. And because of its deep flavor profile, it beckons more salivation.

This delicacy is achieved through a highly sensitive aging process that has nothing to do with chance and everything to do with control.

Meats are aged a minimum of 18 days in a locker set to below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, on average. UV lights keep the bad bacteria at bay.

Enzymes in the meat break down proteins into amino acids, carbohydrates into sugars and dwindle away at connective tissues around protein strands, thus tenderizing the meat. Through this temperature and moisture-controlled process, the meat can lose up to 50 percent of its weight.

What’s left is a marbled steak with superior umami.

The longer it ages, the richer the flavor. But one wrong step, and the beef can be rendered almost inedible, tasting like the dirt underneath cows’ hooves.

With such a sensitive process, it’s no wonder why purveyors advise against dry-aging in-house.

“To dry-age correctly, you really need to do your homework,” Jim Asher of Sterling Meat says.

The amount of care required to produce even one quality, dry-aged rack of beef is why most restaurants source their dry-aged steaks from trusted purveyors.

Continued on page 12

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

11

TRENDS

STRAIGHT FROM THE PURVEYORS

Continued from page 11 But that doesn’t keep everyone from trying their hand at the rigorous process. The Catch entrusts this specialty to Chef Cory Rapp, who uses his past experience with in-house dry-aging.

“I [am] able to expand on that knowledge and train our team on the correct cooking techniques and procedures to ensure every dry-aged steak is seasoned and cooked in a way that it highlights the natural flavors of the dryaging process,” Rapp says.

And not all purveyors are weary on the idea of in-house dry-aging.

“I think it’s great that more restaurants are dry-aging in-house,” says Jim Cascone of Huntington Meats. “As long as these chefs are using cases that

West Coast Prime Meats

ensure the proper temperature and air flow, the result should be a superior

JOHN REESE

quality steak for their guests to enjoy. The key effect of dry-aging is the

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SPECIALIST

concentration and saturation of the natural flavor, as well as the tenderization of the meat texture.”

What do you see as the added benefits of dry-aged meat? Dry-aged beef is like enjoying your favorite wine. The aging process enhances the flavor giving it a beefier taste while at the same time making it more tender.

Describe the aging room. In order to dry-age you need a separate room where you can precisely control not only temperature but also humidity and have a UV lighting system to control bacteria levels.

Describe the aging process. We dry-age to our customers’ specifications. We listen to what our customers are trying to achieve with dry-aging and customize the program to meet their expectations.

Why do you want to dry-age meat as opposed to your clients doing it

“There is simply nothing like it,” he said. “Dry-aging adds unmatched flavor and tenderness that marinating just can’t touch.”

FLEMINGS’ ribeye is dry-aged in 13 different locations across the country to the exact specification of 21 to 28 days.

LACAVE gets their 20+ day, dry-aged steaks from their suppliers.

ENOSTEAK’S ribeye is dry-aged for 28 days. Occasionally, they run a special of 40-day dry-aged American Wagyu, and often they present dry-aged meats as the butcher’s cut-of-the-day.

CHIANINA dry-ages their beef for 30 days through a purveyor, but are currently conducting small experiments in-house.

themselves? Building a dry-age room is expensive on several levels; There is the cost of construction as well as a yield loss that needs to be monitored as well as the money cost of keeping that inventory for as

The Restaurants’ Take

long as 60 days. Our customers have no out-of-pocket costs until they

THE CATCH, CHEF CORY RAPP

purchase the finished product.

How many different cuts do you provide? Is it all prime? Many of our

Why did you decide to add meats dry-aged

customers age different cuts for different specific purposes and since

in-house to your menu? We want to enhance

we dry-age to our customers’ specifications we have a wide array of cuts aging at all times.

Do you dry-age any specific brands? Most of what you’ll find in our dry-age room is Midwest Angus, USDA Choice and Prime beef as well as Wagyu beef.

in-house which sets us apart.

What do you see as the added benefits of dry-aged meat? In my opinion, dry-aged meat provides the most well-rounded intense flavor of steak that

Are different aged meats available at different price points? What’s

you cannot get anywhere. When eating one of our dry-aged steaks, though

the approximate price increase relative to days and or time increments?

not as juicy as your traditional wet aged steak, you can taste the minerality

Prices are determined by costs; meat cost plus yield loss and a minor

of the soil where the cow lived and the grass or grain that the animal fed on-

dry-age fee.

-it is just like the terroir from drinking a fine wine. A discerning palate can

The dry-aging process has been described as “more art than

pick up on the depth and unique characteristics from that steak.

science.” Do you agree? The dry-age process, although science-based

As you may know, purveyors generally advise against you dry-aging your

(humidity temperature and light controlled), is also an art that is

goods in-house. Why do you want to dry-age your own? We really enjoy dry-

determined by the chef’s goals and preferences. It can be very

aging our own meat here because we are in control of the entire process from

subjective as in which cut is best.

start to finish. Wherever you dry-age meat, it is going to taste slightly

What are the differences in grain-fed vs grass-fed meat relevant to dry-ageing, if any? The jury is out on grass-fed dry-age as it has its own flavor profile and reasons for consumption so that paying for the grass experience and dry-aging may not be a good fit.

12

the overall guest experience. There are not many restaurants in Southern California that are dry-aging their own meats

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

different, the humidity and temperature are a very big deal in creating an exceptional dry-aged steak and we like to be in control of that.

Where do you source your meat? Do they provide dry-aged product? We source our meat from the Mid-West, it is grain fed and always USDA Prime.

TRENDS

Yes, our purveyors do provide dry-aged products but we feel our flavor and process is superior.

STRAIGHT FROM THE PURVEYORS

How many days do you age in-house? The least amount of days we dryage our steaks is 32, we have gone up to 75... so far.

Does the price that you charge depend on how long the cut has been aged?

Absolutely, the price has to go up the longer you dry-age the steak. The price goes up due to the high weight loss of the product, in some cases we have up to a 35 percent weight loss during the drying and trimming stage.

What does your locker look like? Our meat locker is on display in the front of the restaurant. We have an open kitchen and right underneath the pass is our humidity and temperature controlled meat locker. Having the locker in the front of the restaurant definitely draws attention from everyone who

Hamilton Meats and Provisions

walks by and it gets them excited for what is to come.

HANS-TREVOR GOSSMANN

Are all your cuts dry-aged? If not, which are? Not all of our meat is dry-

SALES CONSULTANT

aged due to some people not having an acquired taste for the product. On our menu we serve dry-aged 16oz Ribeye, 16oz New York, 2 lb Bone-in

What do you see as the added benefits of dry-aged meat? Dry-aged meat

Ribeye and a 2.5 lb+ Ribeye.

has a different, more “old world”, flavor. Since there is less moisture in

Did you have to purchase special equipment? No, all of the equipment that we

the steak, the flavor is concentrated. Depending on how long it is aged,

have is meant for dry-aging excellent cuts of beef. We use an Omni Temp Refrigerator.

the flavor can turn “nutty” which is very desirable to those with

Can the bone marrow of a dry-aged meat be used? If so, what can it be used for/how is it different? We do not offer any cuts that would have a large

discerning tastes.

Do you dry-age meat in-house? If not, where do you source your dryaged product if any? Yes, we do in-house.

enough piece of bone to gather the marrow from it.

How many pounds per week do you serve? During a busy week we could serve up to 400 pounds of dry-aged meat, which is not including our wet aged steaks.

Describe the aging room. Small room with temperature and humidity control and plenty of air flow.

What is your favorite cut? My favorite cut is the bone-in Ribeye, I enjoy

Describe the aging process. The whole subprimal is laid on racks,

this cut due to the richness of the steak and the meat to fat ratio... any cut

allowing plenty of temperature and humidity controlled air to circulate

of meat with a bone always tastes better and has more flavor.

around it. Over a period of 2 to 3 weeks, the meat has lost between 15

Enhancements on the menu? We offer many great enhancements to our

to 20 percent of its water weight. During that time, the meat is exposed

steaks like bone marrow butter, seared foie gras, bacon-maytag butter, au

to UV lights, which prevent adverse bacteria growth. This keeps the

poivre style and many more.

whole process safe.

Why do you want to dry-age meat as opposed to your clients doing it

IL BARONE RISTORANTE, CHEF FRANCO BARONE

themselves? Most restaurant clients don’t have the space to properly

What do you see as the added benefits of

the humidity and temperature conditions. Use of UV lights is next to

dry-aged meat? Dry-aged beef develops a

impossible in a restaurant setting. In short, food safety is the main

much more intense and richer flavor than beef that has not been dry-aged.

dry-age beef. Oftentimes, the traffic alone is enough to adversely affect

reason dry-aging should be done at Hamilton.

As you may know, purveyors generally advise against you dry-aging your

Are different aged meats available at different price points? What’s

goods in-house. Why do you want to dry-age your own? I like having complete

the approximate price increase relative to days and or time increments?

control over the product I give my guests in the restaurant. By dry-aging my

20 percent price increase after three weeks (+/-)

own beef I can determine how particular cuts are developing and know when the best time to present them to my guests.

The dry-aging process has been described as “more art than science.” Do you agree? Science is what keeps customers safe. We

Where do you source your meat? Do they provide dry-aged product? I have a couple of Purveyors who I’ve worked with for many years. They do provide dry-aging, but also understand and respect that I want to be able to control the aging of the steaks I offer in the restaurant.

prefer to rely on the science when supplying our customer with safe and wholesome products.

How can/does dry-aging improve the meat? Tenderness and flavor are both improved (subject to personal tastes).

How many days do you age in-house? Anywhere from 30 to 55 days. I like

What are the differences in grain-fed vs grass-fed meat relevant to

to see how the flavors in the meat develop. After 50 days of dry-aging the beef really

dry-ageing, if any? Higher fat and marbled subprimals fare better during

develops a number of secondary and tertiary flavors that weren’t there before. I

dry-aging. Typically, grass-fed beef has lower fat, leaving it less

really enjoy the intensity of the flavor and I think many of my guests do as well.

protected during the process.

Continued on page 14

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

13

TRENDS

Books

Continued from page 13 Does the price that you charge depend on how long the cut has been aged? Somewhat but really I want to make sure my guests get a great steak. I love hearing from guests that the steaks I present are equal to or better than premier steak houses.

What temperature? I keep temperature below 40 degrees.

Do you control the humidity? How does that work? The humidity is important and it must be between 80 percent and 85 percent. At high levels of humidity mold growth is an issue. If the humidity is too low the beef will dry out too quickly and therefore cause the steak to have less juiciness than is needed.

Are all your cuts dry-aged? If not, which are? Not all. I like to age Ribeye’s, Porterhouse and New York.

What is your favorite cut? Ribeye.

CAPITAL GRILLE, CHEF CHRIS HUTTEN What do you see as the added benefits of dry-aged meat? Through dryaging, we are able to intensify flavor and maximize the tenderness of our meat. Via controlled humidity and air flow, we remove moisture from the beef which provides our meat with flavor and tenderness that, we believe, is unparalleled.

As you may know, purveyors generally advise against you dry-aging your goods in-house. Why do you want to dry-age your own? When properly managed in a controlled environment, dry-aging yields

WEST COAST PRIME MEATS COOKS

excellent results. The process is managed under the watchful eyes of our in-house butcher and Executive Chef. We believe dry-aging in-house allows us to offer the most tender and flavorful cuts to our guests.

Attention all Meat Lovers!

Get ready to dive into heaven; West Coast Prime Meats has launched its first ever cookbook. If you never heard of this meat supplier, you are certainly no stranger

beef comes from the top ranchers in the United States.

How many days do you age in-house? It’s a process that takes 18 to 24 days under the careful supervision of our in-house butcher and Executive Chef.

when it comes to feasting on one of their

Does the price that you charge depend on how long the cut has been aged? No.

many delicious proteins at one of your

What does your locker look like? Now, that’s a very well-kept secret.

favorite Southern California restaurants.

Are all your cuts dry-aged? If not, which are? For our Bone-In Ribeye we use prime meat as this cut

West Coast Prime Meats Cooks not only

features a high amount of marbling and is especially flavorful when used with prime. Prime beef is graded

contains over 100 well-crafted recipes

based on the amount of marbling and tenderness. We use dry-aging for our other cuts of beef as we are

from their talented contributors such as the

able to truly intensify the flavor and tenderness through the dry-aging process.

Smith Brothers who reveal how to make

What is your favorite cut? Hands down: the Porter House. It’s beautifully dry-aged and has the best

their Prime Chili reach the taste of

of both worlds. With our Porter House, you get our NY Strip and Filet, separated by a flavor enhancing

perfection but also great introductions to

“T” shape bone.

the Chefs and Restaurants are included.

Another appetizing recipe contributed by Musso & Frank is the Grenadine of Beef.

The book also includes preparation tips and tutorials on how to be an expert in meat cutting.

This cookbook holds more than meets the eye, $5 from each book sold will go to the Wounded Warrior Project and the Gary Sinise Foundation.

To purchase this book and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.

14

Where do you source your meat? Do they provide dry-aged product? Our Executive Chef has impeccably high standards regarding the ingredients that are used in our restaurants. As such, our

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

FEATURE

Why did you want the receivers license?

As you know, I have a fish market. Through the years [of] purchasing fish through distributors, I’ve always roe xpress crew members Sean Cardenas and Marisa Kirby man the booth at the Marina Farmer's Market in Long Beach along with Chef Arthur Gonzalez (forefront). Photo by Michael Rutt

tried to keep it as local as possible. With the fish market and the volume that we’re going through, I

Sea to Plate

did some homework and found out that you can get

by Laura A. Serrano

from them [...] or so I thought. You’re getting a

what is called a receiver’s license to buy from local boats that have a commercial fishing license. There are a lot of them and you can buy the fish direct better product that doesn’t go through a middle

Fish: gill bearing, aquatic animals — a description that may not come to mind when ordering fish off a menu or when purchasing a couple of pounds of it at your local market.

As with anything that we consume, it is important to know where fish come from. What kind of journey do these fish go through before making it on

man. It’s straight from the boat to consumer. It allows you to be more competitive in price and you’re also able to get to know the fishermen and see their practices. Is it sustainable? Is it harming the environment? Do they have bycatch? It’s very seasonally regulated, giving the fish an opportunity to regroup and get their numbers back up.

to a menu and then to our dinner plates? How does a restaurant obtain the freshest fish?

Fishermen catch the fish at sea and once that portion of the process is complete, first receivers step in — but what exactly is a first receiver?

Individuals who are licensed as first receivers are allowed to receive fish for the purpose of sale from commercial fishermen. A receiver is a person or

It’s actually pretty simple: you have to show up with

company who receives, purchases, takes custody, control or possession of

your operating agreement, or what your business

catch caught onshore from a vessel that harvested fish under the Shore

type is and you have to come with all the paperwork.

Based Individual Fishing Quota (IFQ) program. According to National Oceanic

I went to Fish and Game in Los Alamitos and it was about a day process once we filled out the

and Atmospheric Administration, all buyers must obtain a first receiver site

application. They faxed it up to Sacramento and

license for each physical landing site. California State First Receivers Licenses

then gave me a license. They give you what they call

cost $773.75 and are effective for one year from the date of issuance.

We have the information that a person needs if interested in obtaining a First Receivers License, but at Great Taste, we wanted to know what it is like being a receiver and the benefits of being licensed, so we asked Chef Arthur Gonzalez, Chef and Partner at roe xpress and eatery and Panxa Cocina in Long Beach.

16

How and where did you get the receivers license?

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

a Landing Receipt Book that’s pretty cool because you have to put what type of fish you’re getting, the size, the weight, the gear on how it was caught.

When I was reviewing it, the lady was telling me that we do this to keep record to ascertain if certain species are being overfished and it just helps keep track of what’s being fished.

FEATURE

What percentage of your menu do you think you will source directly?

“I am going to work really closely with Sarah Rathbone and a program called Dock to Dish, Gonzalez said.

Sarah Rathbone, founder and Director of Operations of Community Seafood in Santa Barbara, decided to partner with Dock to Dish to bring the concept to the West Coast after meeting at a sustainable seafood conference two years ago. Community-supported fisheries are great because you know exactly where your seafood is coming from. The seafood industry is one part of the food world that sorely needs more transparency and a stronger commitment to sustainability (Huffington Post, 2014). Community fisheries aim for sustainability and practicing humane fishing. Fishermen in the US have some of the most stringent rules and regulations in the world which should ensure that we

How often do you think you will go to fishermen or will you get some kind of delivery schedule?

eat the best possible fish. The opposite is the reality, 92 percent of seafood eaten in the United States is from foreign waters and only about two percent of that is inspected.

This is the part where I’m hitting road blocks. It's

The Aquarium of the Pacific’s Seafood for the Future program provides science-based information

surprising that there’s not a huge commercial fishing

about seafood and its role in the global food supply to help businesses and consumers make informed

program or boats in Long Beach. The easiest and

seafood choices that benefit the health and well-being of fish, people, and the planet, important

closest place that I have found is Santa Barbara, but

information for both fishermen and chefs like Arthur Gonzalez. [www.seafoodforthefuture.org]

these fishermen are not going to drive two hours

“A lot of the menu items that I am going to serve at the restaurant are going to be based off the

down to Los Angeles just to deliver a weekly order of

local species of fish that we are already using, halibut, seabass, yellowtail, Santa Barbara spot

fish. We may have to get a refrigerated truck and go

prawns,” Gonzalez said. “They have a lot of sea snail up there and we will see if that’s something we

up there two times a week. There are also a few

can work into the menu. The percentage of my fish items that is be sourced directly is between 60

different programs that we can work with like Santa

to 70 percent. 70 percent on a good day,” said Gonzalez.

Barbara Fish Company. They come down to Los

“I love the fishermen, but they’re extremely guarded, they don’t easily let any outsiders in. A lot of

Angeles already and if I have an order they’ll be

these fishermen have boats that have been handed down to them from their family, it’s a job they’re

more than happy to bring me what I’m ordering

used to doing, it’s comfortable, and they’re great at it. They pull to the dock and all these big

directly from the fishermen—for a delivery fee, and

companies are ready to buy the fish so what makes them wanna deal with one guy that’s buying a

I would still save money. My philosophy includes

quarter of the fish that these guys are buying? It’s kind of hard to penetrate that fricking wall. That’s

sourcing about 80 percent of my fish locally. I’m

where I’ve been having problems, they just don’t want to deal with you,” Gonzalez said.

going to try to go as often as I can or at least meet

“I found the program Dock to Dish and Sarah, the owner, is a fisherman. Being down on the docks she

in LA to get our product.

hand-picked a halibut person, a yellowtail fisherman, and a source for spot prawns so she has her fishermen.

We’re at the point where I have to have a true fish

She collects the top tier of what they’re catching every day. You can sign up for her program, agreeing to

person dedicated to purchasing, making sure our

how many pounds you want every week to your restaurant. She’ll deliver it to you but you probably won’t

prices are where they should be, making sure

know what’s coming. She shows up at our back door and says, ‘Here’s 20 pounds of halibut, 30 pounds of

everything is super fresh, and keeping our rotation

yellowtail, 10 pounds of sea snail, five pounds of spot prawns etc. It’s just going to be a mixture of what

moving properly because fish is delicate. We are

they’re catching. Whatever it is, she works it to where you get that poundage of what they’re catching

looking to getting a prep warehouse where we can

locally.” Most of the seafood species that Gonzalez mentioned (halibut, spot prawns, yellowtail) are available

bring all of our fish, fabricate it, portion it, and then

year-round. While other species, such as salmon are only in season during summer and spring.

distribute it to the restaurant because some of the

When asked how many pounds of fish he foresaw the restaurant serving per week, Gonzalez gave a

fish we get are really big. When you’re cutting two to

quick response, ‘Holy crap’ and then filled us in with a few numbers so we can put this is in

three-hundred-pound tuna it takes up a lot of space

perspective at Great Taste.

that I don’t have at the restaurants.

“It’s kind of skewed; yellowish due to poke sales, I’m going through about 200 pounds a week.

That’s one fish. One of my best selling, halibut, 175-200 pounds a week and that goes the same with seabass. Salmon is probably up to about 300 pounds. Now mind you, this combines the totals from the farmer’s markets (Bixby Knolls, Long Beach Marina, and Cerritos) and by selling fish by the pound here in the market at roe xpress. It’s going to spike up with roe eatery opening and I would probably say close to 100 pounds on each species just on the restaurant side—at least.”

Aside from Panxa Cocina, roe xpress, a market serving poke, fresh fish, seafood platters, fish and chips, and clam chowder; Gonzalez will open roe eatery in August 2016, a full restaurant and patio.

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

17

FEATURE

Southern California Seafood Seasons

YEAR ROUND Abalone (farmed)

Sablefish

Clams (farmed)

Shark, Pacific Thresher

Crab, Rock

Sole

Halibut, California

Squid, CA Market

Lingcod

Thornyhead, Longspine

Mackerel, Pacific

Thornyhe

Mussels (farmed)

ad, Shortspine

Oysters (farmed)

Urchin, Red

Prawn, Spot Rockfish

SPRING

SUMMER

FALL

WINTER

(MARCH-MAY)

(JUNE-AUG)

(SEPT-NOV)

(DEC-FEB)

Crab, Dungeness

Crab, Dungeness (thru June)

Crab, Dungeness (beg Nov)

Crab, Dungeness

Halibut, Pacific (beg March)

Halibut, California (peak)

Halibut, Pacific (thru Nov)

Lobster, CA Spiny

Prawn, Ridgeback

Halibut, Pacific

Lobster, CA Spiny (beg Oct)

Prawn, Ridgeback

Salmon, Pacific (beg May)

Prawn, CA Spot (peak)

Prawn, Ridgeback (beg Oct)

Seabass, White

Shrimp, Coonstripe (beg May)

Salmon, Pacific

Salmon, Pacific (thru Oct)

Shark, Pacific Thresher (peak)

Shrimp, Pink (beg April)

Seabass, White

Seabass, White

Swordfish, CA

Swordfish, CA (thru March)

Shrimp, Coonstripe

Shark, Pacific Thresher (peak)

Whelk, Kellet’s

Whelk, Kellet’s

Shrimp, Pink

Shrimp, Coonstripe (thru Oct)

Swordfish, CA (beg Aug)

Shrimp, Pink (thru Oct)

Tuna, Albacore (beg July)

Swordfish, CA

Yellowtail

Tuna, Albacore (thru Nov) Whelk, kellet’s Yellowtail (thru Sept)

Source: Aquarium of the Pacific

What kind of limits do you need to reach in order to have the fishermen deliver to you?

18

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

From the people I’ve talked to so far, there is none. I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to get the fishermen to deliver directly to me. They’re going to make their money out on the water, not driving the product to me. Either they’re going to sell to me or they’re going to sell to distributors and this is a problem I am running into. They’ve been dealing with all these big distributors for so long, it’s easy for them.

When they pull up their boat, the people are there from the fish places and everyone bids on the fish that’s in that boat and whoever bids the highest—gets the fish. We are just going to have to be there with the fishermen, getting the product that we want to get, at the price we want to get, down at the dock. I have talked to a few people that fish up in Santa Barbara and come back down and dock their boat in Newport, so I’m trying to see if we can work something out for transport.

FEATURE

“For a few weeks I’ve been a little discouraged because it’s tough finding people

Now that you have the license, is it going to live up to your expectations for it?

that will sell to you. They probably don’t think I’m committed, or they think I’m not going to buy enough. It’s like swimming upstream. The people that I have started with see the volume we’re doing, and they’re impressed but it’s going to take time.

In some aspects it’s already living up to my expectations, and I think with persistence and patience we’ll see the pay off. I’m just going to keep pounding the pavement and try to find the fishermen that will give me the time and show them how dedicated I am. I’ve seen the difference in the product from a distributor and getting it right off the boat and I can tell you the shelf life you get, even keeping it on display in the market increases by a lot and that’s very important.� “I try to keep fish no longer than a day and a half to two days in-house, but I don’t know how long it’s been sitting on a shelf at a distributor,� said Gonzalez.

We think it’s safe to say that Chef Gonzalez is a true seafood aFISHionado!

LOCAL LOC OCAL AL FRESH FISH �������� ���� ��� ����� �� ���

Please contact your Santa Monica Seafood Rep for Daily Oerings Chesapeake Fish Company Morro Bay Fish Company

www.smseafood.com

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

19

CHEF DE CUISINE

F ST

Photos by Michael Rutt

* SPO

N

* Y

Marco Zapien: Chef, Teacher and Innovator

O RY

C

HE

SO

B RED

by Taryn Sauer AS CHEF AND OWNER OF THE FAMILY-OWNED

While he was involved since day one, he decided

Growing up as the youngest of three brothers,

in Pico Rivera, Chef Marco Zapien continues to

Zapien found himself immersed in the kitchen,

After graduating from University of San Diego

introduce innovative techniques to classic

where he discovered his passion for cooking. He

with an accounting degree, the crunching-

Mexican dishes while staying true to the

recalls a birthday where his grandmother made

numbers-behind-a-desk life didn’t suit him. He

authentic styles of cooking passed down through

his favorite dish, chile rellenos, and once he ate

returned to school, but this time, to pursue a

generations.

hers, he “developed a love for everything she did

culinary degree.

Much of his menu stems from his mother and

20

do,” Zapien said.

RESTAURANT, Zapien’s Salsa Grill and Taqueria

and everything she made.”

to take a different path.

He graduated from the Los Angeles Culinary

grandmother’s traditional recipes. “Without them,

But Zapien did not immediately jump in to the

Institute with honors in 1997 and went on a tour

I wouldn’t have been so much in love with what I

restaurant when it first opened in April of 1993.

of duty around the country, making stops in New

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

CHEF DE CUISINE York, Chicago and Florida before returning to his roots.

Since he took over the restaurant, Zapien’s has nearly doubled their business. And although the menu changes annually, offering new additions such as pollo en mole bowls and “tortinis” — the Chef’s

rendition

of

a

classic

panini

—

authenticity and tradition still hold strong. For the past four years, Zapien’s has been running a Lent menu, providing hungry customers with options they wouldn’t typically get at a Mexican restaurant.

The combination of his familial traditions and culinary background creates a balance between old and new.

Zapien says his cooking style is based in “the freedom of being creative and trying new things, [while still] using the traditional styles of cooking that [he] grew up with.”

Evidenced in the classic molcajete, the dish sizzles with delicious innovation. All of the ingredients are prepared in-house: carne asada,

CHILES RELLENOS

grilled chicken, sautéed shrimp, chorizo, nopales, queso fresco, chile torreado, grilled green onions

RECIPE BY CHEF MARCO ZAPIEN

chiles. Cut a slit in the upper portion of the

and fresh Salsa Ranchera.

Yield: 4 Peppers

chile and stuff with 3 oz of cheese for each chile. Reserve remaining cheese for the garnish.

Zapien lives the life of a hard working chef, 4

Pasilla peppers

In a mixer with whisk attachment, whip the egg

16 oz

Queso Ranchero - cut into strips

yolks until frothy. Place in a bowl and set aside.

Zapien’s, he is also the Corporate Chef in charge

4

Eggs - separated

Clean mixing bowl and add egg whites. Whisk to

of

1t

Kosher salt

soft peaks and add kosher salt and cream of

Southern California Customers, which allows him

1/2 t

Cream of tartar

tartar. Continue to whisk until stiff peaks are

to frequent local entertainment venues and

1/2 C

Flour

reached. Fold the egg yolks into the egg whites.

baseball stadiums, including his favorite: Angel

2C

Vegetable oil

Heat vegetable oil in a sauce pot or cast iron

putting in an average of 70 to 80 hours a week.

In addition to his role as the Executive Chef at Sport

and

Entertainment

for

Melissa’s

skillet. Dredge chilies in flour. Dip into the egg

Stadium.

METHOD

mixture and coat the entire chile. Place the

only one of his roles outside the restaurant. Through

Roast the Pasilla peppers on the stove top, on

chile in the oil and cook until golden brown, flip

Melissa’s, he is also associated with such charities

the grill, or in a hot sauté pan until the skin

the chile over and continue to cook until golden

as Share Ourselves, Special Olympics, California

blisters. Remove from heat and place in a bowl.

brown. Place on paper towels to drain. Plate

High School (Whittier) Culinary Advisory Board and

Cover with plastic wrap for approximately 5

and top with Salsa Ranchera. Garnish with

the James Beard Foundation, where he attends an

minutes to allow skin to separate from flesh.

remaining Queso Rancheros crumbled over the

annual event in New York to provide young, aspiring

Remove plastic wrap and peel the skin from the

top.

Providing sports arenas with quality produce is

chefs with scholarships.

Locally, he conducts cooking demos, both inhouse and through the Los Angeles County Library system.

SALSA RANCHERA

“I have a blast teaching,” he said.

2 oz

Olive oil

METHOD

cooking classes a year, mostly showcasing seasonal

Through the LACL, he conducts up to twenty

3

Tomatoes - diced small

In a sauté pan, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic,

items. The latest is a Hatch Chile buttermilk biscuit

1/2

Yellow onion - diced small

tomatoes, onion, bell pepper and chipotle

recipe demo to occur on September 12.

1

Green bell pepper - diced small

pepper. Cook until vegetables are tender. Add

1

Chipotle pepper - chopped finely

chicken stock and chopped cilantro. Reduce

1

Clove garlic - minced

heat and simmer until veggies break down and

Zapien’s Salsa Grill and Taqueria retains its

1/4 C

Cilantro - chopped

reach a salsa consistency.

family-oriented nature. Zapien’s niece and nephew

1/2 C

Chicken stock

In his spare time, Zapien enjoys playing golf and following up on Anthony Bourdain’s travels.

both work alongside him, full-time.

Salt and Pepper to taste

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

21

CHEF DE CUISINE

From the Chef’s Mouth FAVORITES:

3 WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR

ZAPIEN’S SALSA GRILL

KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL 8” chef’s knife

CULINARY STYLE Traditional, authentic, innovative.

6702 Rosemead Blvd

KITCHEN APPLIANCE Beurre mixer

Pico Rivera, CA 90660

COOKWARE Cast iron skillet

3 WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR

CONDIMENT Guacamole

MANAGEMENT STYLE Teacher, firm, fair.

SPICE Ground Chipotle powder

HOURS

OC RESTAURANT Javier’s

TOOL AND SOURCE FOR HOME KITCHENS Buy

DISH TO EAT Pollo en Mole

decent knives and cookware at Chefs Toys.

JUNK FOOD Kettle Jalapeno potato chips

Tuesday – Sunday 8 am – 9 pm AVERAGE COVER

RAW INGREDIENT Cilantro

FOOD INGREDIENT SOURCE FOR FOODIES

Lunch: $12.00

FAST FOOD IN-N-OUT Cheeseburger & Fries

Melissas.com

Dinner: $18.00

HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 70 to 80.

CULINARY HERO Anthony Bordain. I love Anthony’s “tell it like it is” style. He has the best

FIRST HOSPITALITY JOB Worked bussing tables

job on earth.

and washing dishes at Buffum’s and cooked professionally at the Dal Rae in Pico Rivera.

BIGGEST CULINARY INFLUENCE My Mom and Grandmother have taught me so much about

ADVICE TO STUDENTS Make sure it is what you

cooking. Without them I wouldn’t be as much in

really love to do before you make the commitment

love with what I do.

to the high cost of culinary school. I recommend

22

www.thesalsagrill.com

taking a culinary course at a junior college first to

PLACES TRAVELED TO EXPLORE & LEARN

make sure that you are really passionate before

ADDITIONAL CUISINES New York, Chicago,

leaping into a full on culinary program.

Florida, and many local restaurants.

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

digital

catalog

advertising

web

studio

location

www.michaelrutt.com 949-322-7590 | michael@michaelrutt.com

THE BIZ: 41 GREAT TASTES

Any Day’s a Good Day for a Michelada ABOUT THE BIZ

WHAT BETTER WAY TO HAVE FUN IN THE SUN

by, other sauces were added to the original

THAN TO CELEBRATE WITH SPICY, SAVORY,

recipe. Today, it contains the same ingredients as

SOUR, ICE-COLD MICHELADAS? Micheladas,

a chelada — Mexican slang for beer but contains

considered one of the most popular drinks in

ice and chili powder on the rim. Another

Mexico, can be described as a Bloody Mary that’s

etymology states that Michelada is a blend of mi

made with beer instead of vodka. There’s so

chela helada, meaning “my ice cold beer.”

much more to this Mexican drink. Most often,

A variety of beers are brewed in Mexico.

Michelada (pronounced mee-che-LAH-dah), is a

Modelo Especial was the first brand produced by

Mexican cocktail made with beer, lime juice and

the Modelo brewer in 1925 and the lager remains

tomato juice or clamato (a blend of tomato juice

a firm favorite with Mexican consumers (second

Celebrating food and culture in Mexico, the

and clam juice) all served over ice in a glass with

best selling beer). Some Mexican Beers are

American Southwest and California, Alta Baja

a salted rim. You can customize it however you

among the top selling beers in the USA, Canada,

Market was created by Natasha Monnereau

want — hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce or even

Europe and Australasia. Negra Modelo is

and Delilah Snell. This market is a love letter

soy sauce.

popularly known in Mexico as the “cream of the

Alta Baja Market

to the unique fare and rare finds from above

There are two popular versions of the origin

beers” and is a very smooth dark beer. ABM’s

and below the border including kitchen items,

and etymology of the Michelada. One concerns a

recommended beers for Micheladas are Modelo

dry goods, gifts, books, wines and beers,

Michel Ésper at Club Deportivo Potosino in San

Especial and Negra Modelo.

chiles, moles, heirloom beans, spices, fresh

Luis Potosí, Mexico who used to ask for his beer

At the recently opened Alta Baja Market in

produce, aguas frescas from backyard fruit,

with lime, salt, ice, and a straw, in a special cup

Santa Ana’s popular downtown food hall 4th

and gourmet meats and cheeses from

called “chabela,” as if it were a beer lemonade.

Street Market, Micheladas come in a variety of

California, Arizona, New Mexico, Tijuana,

The members of the club started asking for beer

flavors: La Santanera — lime and chile rim; La

Ensenada, Valle De Guadalupe and beyond.

as

name

Mera — I Love Michelada Mix and chile rim; La

www.altabajamarket.com

shortening over time to Michelada. As time went

Malandrina — spicy green pepper; La Traviesa —

“Michel’s

lemonade,”

with

the

pineapple and coconut; La Chiquita — passion fruit; and of course the La Ultima — La Mera or La Santaner + Aguachile and Botanas (Vegan). At ABM the Guelaguetza (I Love) Michelada Mix and Ice Cold Beer are available for purchase. Create your own signature “Miche” at home.

24

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR

ABOUT THE WRITER

James Woods SALES REPRESENTATIVE, WINE WAREHOUSE NICKNAMES JTB or (jimmy the brit for short).

HOW LONG BARTENDING OR PAIRING FOOD AND BEVERAGE? 20 Years.

AWARDS & CONTESTS Golden Foodie (Best Cocktails, Hopscotch), OC Weekly People’s Choice Bartender Of The Year (Hopscotch).

FAVORITES: BEER I am a sucker for a good sour beer but stick a Tennants Lager (Scottish) in front of me and I’m in happy land.

WINE 2002 Lanson Gold Label (one of the best champagne vintages in the last 50 years.)

COCKTAIL Last Word, although a good Aviation is right there with it.

COCKTAIL CREATION The Buccaneer.

The Hair of the Dog IT’S SUNDAY MORNING AND MY WIFE AND I

generally agree that one storyline probably

of the ruthless, Mary Queen of Scots. The tomato

ARE FEELING A LITTLE FUZZY. The first words

deviates the least from the truth.

juice is said to represent the blood spilled by her

out of my wife’s mouth are not “good morning,”

Fernand “Pete” Petiot, came up with a

many victims, while the vodka, a ‘firewater,’ is

which I have come to expect, but in fact “Bloody

rudimentary version of the drink in the early 1920s

symbolic of the queen’s brutal means of

Mary?” At this juncture I start to feel the cogs in

while working at the famed Harry’s New York Bar

execution.

my head creak into action. After a couple of

in Paris. After Prohibition, Petiot brought the drink

The Bloody Mary is not a spirits-driven drink

minutes I have formulated my plan of attack.

to Manhattan where he presided over the swanky,

and that’s part of the appeal. The tomato juice

Tomato juice, check; beef broth, check; salt and

King Cole Bar at the St. Regis Hotel. For a time,

and vodka form a blank canvas on which one may

pepper, check; hot sauce, check and most

the cocktail was renamed the Red Snapper in a

create freehand artistry in the medium of spices.

importantly, Vodka, double check. The art of the

nod to more delicate American sensibilities. It was

More horseradish or black pepper for some, or a

Bloody Mary is in its simplicity. Five ingredients

here that Petiot started to experiment by adding

touch of clam juice (which for obscure reasons

blended together in holy beverage matrimony to

horseradish, Tabasco, celery salt etc. into the basic

makes it a Bloody Caesar) for others; it’s a

provide you with the necessary fuel to face the

tomato juice and vodka concoction. And voila, it

cocktail that doesn’t require a jigger, rather just a

day. But where does the drink come from?

caught on and a classic was born.

modicum of culinary instinct. The absolute best

The Bloody Mary’s origins are as murky as the

Of course, other theories persist. My personal

tomato juice it’s made of. But cocktail historians

favorite is that the Bloody Mary dates to the rule

part is that it is a fantastic cure for a hangover.

Bottoms Up!!!!

JULY | AUGUST 2016 | great taste

25

THE BIZ: VIN

Hosting a Wine Tasting at Home ABOUT THE WRITER

Sonya Kelsen CO-FOUNDER/OWNER, COLONY WINE MERCHANT NICKNAME Hey Boss Lady.

HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years.

FAVORITES: BEER Depends on the day.

WINE Depends on my mood.

COCKTAIL Old Fashioned at the moment.

COCKTAIL CREATION Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.

MOST OF US IN THE FOOD AND BEVERAGE

26

Set up four glasses per guest and pour

SAUVIGNON BLANC AND CHEVRE

INDUSTRY HAVE BEEN THERE. You serve

varietally

guests, pair wine with their meal, tell them a

Chardonnay,

story about the vineyard, even tell them what

Sauvignon. Try to stay in the same growing

they are tasting if asked. Then your friends and

region and price point (remember it is wine

family want you to do the same at home. Some

tasting 101). You should be able to find decent

CHARDONNAY AND D’AFFINOIS

may think, I love this stuff and that is why I got

expressions of these varietals under $15 each.

A balanced Chardonnay that sees oak and malic

into this business. Others may think, I do this all

Download tasting notes that cover typical

acid, is absolute perfection with the creamy,

day long for a living, how about giving me a

aromas and flavors for the basics so your

dreamy, buttery qualities of this double crème brie.

break. Whatever the situation may be, the people

friends can refer to citrus for the sauv blanc,

in your life outside of the business think you are

butter of the chard, mushrooms for the pinot

PINOT NOIR AND MOLITERNO AL TARTUFO

the expert in the group so give them what they

and dark berries for the cab. You know where I

Stay away from over extracted fruit forward Pinot

want…just make it easy on yourself.

am going.

and find one with great acid. The saltiness in this

correct Pinot

Sauvignon Noir

and

Blanc,

The bright acidity, citrus and grassy notes are

Cabernet

perfect with the tangy zesty quality in a young goat cheese.

An in-home wine tasting can be as easy as you

The next step would be sharing your food and

pecorino needs the acidity of the wine. The

want it to be, but you can still impress. Think

wine pairing expertise. Bring out a piece of

earthy tones of a Pinot are almost orgasmic with

about the days you were learning about wine and

cheese that pairs with each wine. Cheese is a

the veins of black truffle in this cheese.

create a wine tasting 101. Remember when you

great way for people to understand harmony in

learned about the citrus qualities in a Sauvignon

food and wine pairing. Wines that are meant to

CABERNET SAUVIGNON AND CAVE MAN BLUE

Blanc? How about the buttery vanilla notes in a

be enjoyed in their youth pair well with young

This cave aged blue veined cheese has many

Chardonnay and the earthy tones of a Pinot Noir?

cheese and wines that need some age (imagine

layers and the finish just keeps on going. Pair

Yup that is right, give them the basics and your

the barrel ageing Cabernet goes though before it

with a wine that does the same. Think about the

guests will walk away feeling informed and will

is bottled) go with a cheese that is more complex

body of a Cabernet and the layers of complexities

take that knowledge with them every time they

and needs time to reach maturity. So here are

as well as the long finish. Add a piece of dark

taste wine.

some ideas:

chocolate and it’s a trifecta!

www.great-taste.net | JULY | AUGUST 2016

800.644.7310

photo by Bรถhringer Friedrich