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800.644.7310
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FROM THE EDITOR
CONTENT F E AT U R E S 1 2 FRIED CHICKEN
D E PA RT M E N T S 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH
Get Your Fix
16
MEET OUR CHEF DE CUISINE
Speckled Romaine
7
Andrew Gruel Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net
THE BIZ 2 0 MARKETING
TERI’S TAKE
W
ho’s Hungry? That would be me. All the time. I don’t have an off switch and the best part of my job is to visit as many local restaurants as possible. It’s great to talk the restaurant biz with all you Chefs, Managers and Owners and taste the best that Orange County and Long Beach have to offer. This issue, we dive into Fried Chicken and share input from Chefs Gabe Caliendo of Lazy Dog Café, David Slay from Park Ave, Ryan Adams of Three Seventy Common and, of course, cover Chef Andrew Gruel who just opened his latest concepts, Two Birds and Butterleaf at Trade in Irvine to complete the trifecta with Slapfish. Summer’s here and it’s the season for brunch. Seems that the 2017 Brunch season is bigger and better than ever. We’ve been searching out the best that Orange County has to offer and next issue, we’ll chat about our best bites. Next issue we’ll also take you through some of the joys and challenges of “going international.” Cheers!
9
RAISING THE BAR Your Inner Pirate
23
SEA | FARM | TABLE Fried Chicken
TECHNOLOGY Simplify Your Life
22
CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Bellwether Crescenza
Email Marketing
21
BUTCHERY Lesser Known Cuts
8
Teri Williams
Content
RECIPIES 3 THE DOUBLE BIRD IN THE HAND 8 CHEF AUSTIN LESLIE’S
VIN Wines and Rinds
FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN
18
LOBSTER GRILLED CHEESE WITH EVERYTHING SAUCE
On The Cover THE DOUBLE BIRD IN THE HAND The Double Bird in the Hand at Chef Andrew Gruel's Two Birds at Trade in Irvine is definitely a handful and also a mouthful of crispy, spicy goodness. Crispy fried chicken is layered with Slaw and Tiger Sauce on a Cornmeal Bun. View the recipe below for Chef Andrew’s secret Tiger Sauce and other favorites by Chef Andrew from Slapfish, Butterleaf and Two Birds on page 18. Photo by Michael Rutt.
TIGER SAUCE 1C 2T 1/4 C 1/2 C 1/4 C 1 1T
Mayo Sriracha Gochujang Red wine vinegar Sour cream Garlic clove - minced Chives - chopped
Blend until smooth
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
3
Books
INSIDE
SINCE 2000
RAISING CHICKENS IN YOUR BACKYARD CAN BE PRETTY SIMPLE — if you have the right know-how and nurturing hand. Caring for a baby chick takes patience and warmth — literally; hens need herding and a daily regimen of fresh feed and company. From the time a hatchling becomes a hen, a full cycle has transformed right before your eyes and soon those beautiful, un-bleached eggs appear. It’s a well-known fact that farm fresh eggs reign superior, but from your own backyard? That’s from your coop-to-table, baby. From backyard chickens to city-raised hens, the versatility of chickens is boundless. Chickens can even make great companions and the fresh, fresh eggs they produce cannot be beat. Ready to try your hand as a mother hen? Check out our recommendations on how to get your backyard coop ready and sustainable all season.
PUBLISHER CHIEF EDITOR PROPRIETOR Teri Williams
EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Robyn Brewer
CHICKEN AND EGG By Chef Janice Cole
Chef Gabriel Caliendo Eric Gustafson
Chicken coops have never been so chic! From organic gardens in parking lots to rooftop beekeeping, the appeal of urban homesteading is widespread. “Chicken and Egg” tells the story of veteran food writer Janice Cole, who, like so many other urbanites, took up the revolutionary hobby of raising chickens at home. From picking out the
Sonya Kelsen Riva Lu Colton Maines Sagi Rochman
perfect coop to producing the miracle of the first egg, Cole shares her now-expert insights into the trials, triumphs, and bonds that result when human and hen live in close quarters. With 125 recipes for delicious
Taryn Sauer James Wood
chicken and egg dishes, poultry lovers, backyard farmers, and those…
FIVE FAT HENS By Tim Halket
ART Art Direction/Design
A love of eating and of good ingredients led Tim to build a henhouse in
Lisa Brink
the corner of his garden for a daily harvest of fresh eggs. His take on the
lisa@designsmorgasbord.com
role of keeping chickens is amusing and insightful, but this book is more than just a DIY guide to keeping a few free-range birds, or a new slant on a chicken-themed cookbook. Much in the style of Nigel Slater’s “Kitchen Diaries”, it takes the reader through an entire year, month-by-
PHOTO Photography Editor
month, skillfully combining the author’s passion for cooking in diary
Michael Rutt
form interwoven with his recipes, thoughts, and observations and with
michael@michaelrutt.com
the premise that even the smallest…
BACKYARD CHICKENS BEYOND THE BASICS By Pam Freeman A must-have for every backyard chicken keeper, “Backyard Chickens
ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess
Beyond the Basics” goes beyond introductory lessons and explores the realities of raising a flock for eggs — and entertainment, of course! From odd eggs and molting to feeding and preparing for the seasons,
714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net
this book covers the subjects beginner books don't adequately address and re-examines common knowledge that may not actually hold true. It's a resource to turn to time and again for expert advice to make sure your birds are happy, healthy, and productive.
21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869
To purchase these and other great publications, visit Great-Taste.net!
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www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
teri@great-taste.net
INSIDE
Helping Our Customers SucDeed
THE FRESH PRODUCE SPECIALIST
SERVICE
DAIRY
PRODUCE
®
1-800-252-916 | FreshPoint.com | heProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
5
INSIDE
Produce Pick of the Month SPECKLED ROMAINE IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO MAKE A TRULY DELECTABLE SALAD, try it with Speckled Romaine Lettuce; also known as Speckled Trout Lettuce or Thorburn’s Orchid Lettuce. This special brand of heirloom romaine lettuce was first discovered in 1799 by Pennsylvania farmer Urias Martin. Known for its crisp, pale-green leaves and the red speckles that cover it, the leaves are also thinner than other romaine lettuce. This lettuce is delicately flavored and very juicy. It goes well with ingredients like feta cheese, lemon, avocados, bell peppers, cucumbers, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, onions, tomatoes and sour cream. In addition to traditional recipes, some others to try are Strawberry Romaine Salad, Romaine and Mandarin Orange Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, and Winter Fruit Salad with Lemon Poppy Seed Dressing. Speckled Romaine Lettuce should be paired with either cider, red or white wines, or sherry. If you’re sick of the same-old lettuce check out this secret ingredient. The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and the propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. From www.theproducehunter.com.
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INSIDE
BUTCHERY
FIVE LESSER-KNOWN CUTS IN OUR STORES, WE ARE OFTEN ASKED ABOUT
sell or recommend for a steak is outside skirt. It is
LESSER-KNOWN CUTS, new things to try or what
flavorful and fatty, and takes marinade well.
the next trendy cut to show up on a bistro menu might be.
TOP SIRLOIN
Some of these lesser-known cuts will hang
This cut comes from a lean, muscular part of the
around, while others are a quickly passing trend.
cow, so it carries rich, beefy flavors while still
Cuts like beef cheeks or shin are fantastic and find
retaining some tenderness. We sell ours as a
their way onto restaurant menus, but they haven’t
“Baseball Cut” steak, which look a lot like a filet in
crossed over to retail well… we haven’t sold more
the case. Like the hanger steak, this is another cut
than a handful over the years.
where I like to educate customers about the texture
Here are five cuts that seem to be gaining
and chew — just to set expectations. Top sirloin is
popularity, slowly but surely, that we think are here
typically a great value; a tender and moist cut that
to stay. As these are unfamiliar to the consumer, if
is an ideal choice for an entree.
you’re planning to add any of the following to your menu, educating your servers so they can educate the customer will be key.
THE BAVETTE Here is an underrated cut, more commonly sold as flap meat. Though not needed, this cut takes
MARROW BONES
marinade very well. Commonly sold as fajitas and
This has become a very trendy cut (can we call it a
carne asada in the West, and as steak tips in the
cut?) popping up on menus everywhere. We have
North-East, it is found on menus at restaurants
always sold a lot of marrow bones, but once we started
with many varied cuisines. This is an extremely
splitting them, we saw them fly out the door. This
versatile cut, thick and flavorful, making it a
couldn’t be a more classic dish. Once prized by kings,
perfect cut for a great tasting steak.
marrow is rich and nutrient dense. On menus, you will typically find marrow bones roasted and served with
While these cuts were once all underrated,
crusty bread. The fatty, silky, savory flavor of marrow
skirt, and hanger steaks have become more
bones make it a great cut for starter courses.
popular and their prices are reflecting an increased demand.
HANGER STEAK
When
customers
are
looking
for
something different, these are five go-to cuts that
Here is a cut that is common, and arguably too much
we feel good about recommending, and your
so, on menus in bistros. However, it can be confused
servers should too. With the right education,
by customers with flank or skirt steak. Hanger steak
preparation and expectations, these once less
has deep flavor and is tender, but it is a slightly
popular cuts continue to gain favor among diners
chewy cut. It is best prepared rare to medium rare.
and home-cooks alike. We’ve already begun to see
We often equate tenderness to greatness with steak,
our customers return happy, asking for more.
but many people prefer richness and flavor you can only get from cuts like this. SKIRT STEAK This is another flavorful cut that should be cooked hot and quickly. We have found a lot of customers
STAY CONNECTED TO WHAT’S HOT IN THE OC We are the OC foodie connection with breaking news and events added daily!
ABOUT THE WRITERS
Brian Smith & Robert Hagopian
come back for this. What’s important here is that
Co-owners of The Butchery OC with locations
outside and inside skirt are very different, but are
in Brea, Costa Mesa and Newport Beach.
often simply sold as “skirt steak.” The only cut we
www.butcherymeats.com
Find a full listing of Calendar of Events, Happy Hours, Brunches, Restaurant Listings and more on our site! WWW.GREAT-TASTE.NET MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
7
INSIDE
Cheese Pick of the Month
Chef Austin Leslie's Famous Fried Chicken Makes 8 pieces 1
Fryer (2-3 pounds) - cut into 8 pieces Salt and black pepper Peanut oil for deep frying
2
Eggs
1 5-oz
Can evaporated milk, light cream or half and half
5 oz
Water All-purpose flour
CRESCENZA
Wash and drain chicken pieces. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (If not cooking right away, prepare up to this point and refrigerate. Bring just to room temperature before proceeding.)
INSPIRED BY THE CENTURIES-OLD ITALIAN CHEESE STRACCHINO DI
Heat oil to 350 degrees in a deep fryer or large, heavy, deep skillet. Meanwhile,
CRESCENZA, the Bellwether Crescenza cheese is a sight and taste to
beat eggs with evaporated milk and one can (five ounces) of water. Season well
behold.
with salt and pepper.
The cheese is made primarily on Bellwether Farms in Petaluma, California by cheesemaker Liam Callahan. This soft cheese is unlike any other with its rindless sides and almost
Dip each chicken piece into the egg wash, squeezing to drain off excess liquid; then roll in flour to coat thoroughly. Shake off excess flour, then drop coated chicken into preheated oil. Do not crowd.
gelatinous texture. The creamy surface is slightly misleading; it has been
Fry, turning often with tongs, until evenly browned and cooked through —
described as having a yeasty and acidic flavor with a hint of a yogurt tang.
about 15 minutes for larger pieces (thigh, breast, leg) and 10 minutes for wings.
The cow milk cheese is served very young but gets a creamier
When almost done, pierce each piece several times with a meat fork to allow hot
consistency near it's best by date. Some recipes to include this with are: Crescenza Stuffed Sweet Potatoes and Crescenza and Dino Kale Gratin, or even to melt on flatbreads
oil to penetrate to the bone; then squeeze with the tongs. (It is not necessary to pierce wings.) Drain well and serve. Recipe Courtesy of The Times-Picayune, New Orleans, Judy Walker and NOLA.com
and pizza. It’s recommended to pair this with white wine such as Riesling and wheat beers like Pilsners and Bavarian-style Weissbiers. The cheese is inspired by the legend of the Stracchino Crescenza in Italy, where the milk was allegedly discovered by taking the milk from cows that were brought up and down from the Alps. For more information about Bellwether Crescenza or Bellwether Farms, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.
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www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
John T. Edge included Leslie in his 2004 book, “Fried Chicken: An American Story.” He notes that the chef gave out different recipes at different times, and comes up with his version of Leslie's chicken, adding Creole seasoning to the salt and pepper. He noted that the evaporated milk gives a slight sweetness to the recipe. Edge's version of Leslie's recipe was later adapted, yet again, by Food and Wine magazine. To purchase these books and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.
INSIDE
FIRST CAME THE CHICKEN I LOVE IT WHEN SOMETHING SO BASIC AND TRADITIONAL COMES INTO THE CULINARY LIMELIGHT AS A CHIC, NEW DISH. Fried chicken, and all the variations imaginable of it, have seen a renaissance in restaurants across the country. Even upscale restaurants are taking a crack at it. How could I be left out?… couldn’t. Here’s a breakdown on my recent journey in attempting fried chicken perfection. First came the chicken. Bone-in or no bone? Breast or dark meat? My favorite version of a good, fried chicken is simply a whole chicken that is broken down into eight pieces: breast, thighs, legs and wings times two. Cooking anything on the bone yields a more juicy and flavorful, final dish. This was the standard that I set and bounced everything off of. The problem, of course, is the application. If you want to make a sandwich using a bone-in fried chicken, it won’t work (as was my case.) Knowing that I wanted to make an entrée and a sandwich for the menu, it pretty much ruled out using a bone-in chicken product. The next test was trying a boneless skinless breast. Big problem. First off, it was dry after cooking compared to the bone-in standard I’d set. Also, the breading has nothing to adhere to. Even though I
by Gabriel Caliendo
got a decent product, often-times the breading would crumble off after making a couple cuts with a knife and fork. There’s nothing worse than breading that falls off, but more on that later. The final result: boneless skinless chicken thighs, just about the best of all worlds. The thigh meat is succulent and holds up well to the frying process. The surface area is rough and has plenty of little nooks and crannies for holding the breading. The breaded thighs also would work perfectly both as a sandwich and an entrée. Now to the breading: the most difficult part by far. We tried all sorts of techniques and learned quickly that it would take some digging-in to nail down the breading. When all was said and done, we settled on a very flavorful seasoned buttermilk marinade and flour dredge. We learned that the double
VP OF RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT, LAZY
dredge was the key and that allowing it to rest a bit before frying was also important. The toughest part
DOG RESTAURANT & BAR, CORPORATE
is managing the prep and storage for service throughout the entire day.
EXECUTIVE CHEF
The cooking process is very standard, but also critical in its need for precision. A fat fry at about
NICKNAME “Gabe”.
320 degrees, yields the golden-brown crust while cooking the chicken completely through to the
HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE
center. A dust of salt on each side just after removing from the fryer, seals the deal.
25 years.
After cooking, the Lazy Dog fried chicken is super crispy and light with flakes of highly seasoned
FAVORITES:
breading, protruding on the outside yet adhering completely, bite after bite. The inside is juicy and
BEER Sculpin IPA.
succulent with plenty of flavor you would expect from a bone-in version. The chicken works very well in
WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot.
the sandwich application with house-made spicy pimento cheese spread, crispy iceberg lettuce and quick-
COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed
pickled jalapenos. The entrée is served with our scratch-made white gravy, garlic butter-grilled, sweet
Oranges with Vodka.
white corn and bacon-sautéed baby spinach. Add a cold beer and things just don’t get much better.
Photo by Rebecca Simms, Lazy Dog Cafe
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
9
ADVERTISEMENT
INSIDE
The Food World’s Three Stooges A None-Too-Sweet Story of Disinformation, Conflict of Interest and Misdirection WHEN MOE, LARRY AND CURLY RULED HOLLYWOOD
Study” in the 1950s compared the health and diet
can now make an even better case that people need
— or at least Saturday mornings — physical comedy and
of some 13,000 middle-aged men in the U.S., Japan
to think critically about claims that don't comport
slapstick got a rise out of audiences. The Stooges were
and Europe, concluding that populations that
with their own experience.
classic icons of misdirection.
consumed large amounts of saturated fats in meat
The exclamation point on all this is Michele
Fast forward a few generations. The latter-day
and dairy had high levels of heart disease, while
Hozer’s award-winning documentary “Sugar Coated”
troika of Ancel, Big Sugar and Unilever are managing
those who ate more grains, fish, nuts and vegetables
(www.sugarcoateddoc.com), on Netflix, a brilliant
to evoke the 1930s trio, minus the nyuk, nyuk,
did not.
expose of “sugar politics.” “Sugar Coated” may not
nyuks. It’s a story of food “science” reading much
This past September, the sugar industry again was
be as funny as “Beer and Pretzels” or “Ants in the
more like science fiction, with decidedly unfunny
caught with its hand in the proverbial cookie jar
Pantry” from the Three Stooges — it’s actually not
consequences for consumers, legitimate science and
when the Journal of the American Medical
funny at all — but there’s not a moment of
entire industries.
Association (JAMA) Internal Medicine reported a new
misdirection in it.
“Ancel” would-be pioneer food propagandist,
University of California finding that, in the 1960s,
Ancel Keys; Big Sugar, the multi-billion dollar
the industry paid scientists to produce research
juggernaut that threw truth under the bus while
downplaying the link between sugar and heart
fingering animal fats as culpable for America's
disease — and playing up saturated fat’s role.
health woes, and Unilever, the latest conglomerate to
Although the payment was hush-hush when the
Would that the disciples of Ancel Keys had been as circumspect.
ABOUT THE WRITER
enlist academia in subverting research. As Daniel
study was published, the findings influenced
Engber understates in his review of Gary Taubes’ new
nutritional recommendations from public health
Eric R. Gustafson
book, The Case Against Sugar in The Atlantic, “In
officials and the supposedly rock-solid U.S. Dietary
Eric R. Gustafson is CEO of Coast Packing
the past few years, the dangers of dietary fat have
Guidelines.
Company in Los Angeles, the number one
begun to look as though they were overstated, and
And so it goes.
supplier of animal fat shortenings in the
the risks of sugar underplayed.”
From my POV, this is only tangentially about sugar
Talk about fake news. There is a pattern here that predates
the
current
media
meltdown
itself. The big takeaway — the “Three Stooges
by
moment,” if you will — concerns a brazen and
generations, and it speaks to a lack of discernment
sustained, if sub rosa, campaign to point the finger
among those both inside and outside the “food
at animal fats and away from some pretty toxic stuff
establishment”.
in America’s cupboard.
When few were looking closely, Minnesota
The story — if you can call decades of
pathologist, Keys, played a shell game with science
disinformation “a story” — is that one industry
and with competing sectors of the food processing
slandered another in the interests of profit and in
industry, as Taubes recounts in his book. For his part,
total disregard of consumers and their health. We
Keys was just warming up: his “Seven Countries
who speak on behalf of “healthy fats” consumption
10
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
Western United States.
INSIDE
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MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
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FEATURE
Fried Chicken Dinners
by Riva Lu
Restaurants across Orange County have used their creativity to celebrate chicken by dedicating their menus solely for fried chicken, reserving a special day of the week or month for the feast or by building specials around the crispy delight. Though fried chicken is nothing new or unique, it has been a longstanding favorite amongst many over the years and is known to raise sales. To compensate for spicy or salty flavors, restaurant owners have also found that beer sales increase as customers find the pair to be complementary. 12
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
FEATURE
Photos by Bonchon
FOOD
HAVING
a well-known fact that chicken is everyone’s go-to
and wings have become an inexpensive byproduct
INEXPENSIVE CHICKEN DISHES WILL BRING
FANATICS
SAYS
THAT
protein. I think that there’s so much low-quality
for chicken producers. Chicken is being sold for
DOWN THE AVERAGE FROM HIGHER-END
chicken on the market that we really want to
85 cents per pound at wholesale broiler prices,
PROTEINS, such as beef, which can be very cost-
celebrate a higher standard for chicken, but also
which has been the lowest it has been since
efficient for your restaurant and today’s price
make it fun and approachable because who doesn’t
2011. There are conflicting reports and BMO
conscious diners. Restaurant Business Online
love fried chicken or chicken sandwiches?”
Capital Markets analysts Andrew Strelzik and
advises that chicken-focused menus yield better
Another local star in fast-casual, Nathaniel
Ryan Royce said they found that the price of
margins but chicken dinner menu prices “ain’t
Nguyen (Jinny’s Pizza), just opened Rooster
chicken wings increased nearly 11 percent last
what they used to be”.
Republic at Santa Ana’s McFadden Public
week to $1.91 each, compared to the same time
Market.
a year ago, causing troubling news and stress for
Restaurants such as Park Ave, Grits and Three Seventy Common bring their own family traditions
Bruxie is known for their fried chicken and
to incorporate into fried chicken nights each week.
waffle sandwiches and a big bite of bird holds
Three Seventy Common in Laguna Beach
their number one seller spot with the “Original”
Korean concepts such as the Bonchon
proudly claims to be the first restaurant in Orange
sandwich, double dipped with a combination of
franchise founded in Busan, South Korea,
County to have prix-fixe Fried Chicken Nights.
spices, fried, then coated with chile honey and
specializing in Korean-style fried chicken, are on
Chef Ryan Adams started the special dining date
topped with cider slaw, between two crispy
the rise in Orange County.
to honor fond, childhood memories.
waffles.
wing giants like Buffalo Wild Wings, Wing Stop, Chick-fil-A, Popeyes and the like.
Today, fried chicken concepts continue to dot
Chef and Founder of Slapfish, Andrew Gruel,
“It takes time to prepare a quality product, but
the OC restaurant scene. Hungry customers
just opened his first fried chicken concept, “Two
it’s so worth the wait,” Bruxie’s Director of
continually show their love and obsession for fried
Birds” at Trade Food Hall in Irvine, and uses
Marketing, Cathy Peterson, said. “Our chicken is
chicken and restaurants continue to provide to
high-quality Jidori chicken, a local free-range
always marinated for 24 hours, and all items are
their satisfaction. Does your restaurant have what
farm out of Los Angeles.
cooked to order.”
it takes to specialize in fried chicken?
“I’ve already done seafood and the burger
According to the Chicken Council, U.S.
market is totally saturated,” Chef Gruel said. “It’s
consumers prefer boneless-skinless breast meat,
Following are a few restaurants that share their love for fried chicken.
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
13
FEATURE
CHEF RYAN ADAMS THREE SEVENTY COMMON – LAGUNA BEACH WHY IS FRIED CHICKEN SO POPULAR? Fried chicken is popular because it reminds people of being a kid – food is about memories. This is why I started our Fried Chicken Nights at Three Seventy Common, and I’m proud to claim we were the first restaurant to offer Fried Chicken Nights in Orange County. The concept really took off after that. WHY DID YOUR RESTAURANT DECIDE TO DO A FRIED CHICKEN EVENING? We started the Fried Chicken Sundays because fried chicken is a meal that everyone can relate to and usually brings back fond, childhood memories. WHAT ARE SOME CHICKEN SPECIALTIES YOUR RESTAURANT HAS TO OFFER? Fried Chicken Sunday is offered on the last Sunday of each month. Another delicious chicken dish available on our regular menu is the ‘All Natural Chicken’ served with onion, risotto, olive, caper, lemon, chile, garlic and herbs. HOW HAS IT BEEN RECEIVED? ARE YOU USUALLY SOLD OUT? Our Fried Chicken Sundays have been very well received by both locals and visitors. We typically sell out for each dinner, so reservations are highly recommended. Fried Chicken Night is on the last Sunday of every month 5:00-9:00pm; Priced at $42 for adults and $21 for kids under 10, it includes chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, fresh green beans, kale salad, coleslaw and leafy greens braised with pork belly (sides vary based on fresh market availability.) WHY DO YOU NOT HAVE IT ON YOUR MENU EVERY DAY? We don’t offer this meal nightly because it’s a prix fixe dinner. Also, the restaurant only has one deep fryer and most of the regular menu, fried items are gluten free. HAS IT BROUGHT YOU AN ADDITIONAL CUSTOMER BASE AND/OR DO YOUR REGULAR CUSTOMERS COME ON AN ADDITIONAL NIGHT FOR THAT SPECIAL? Both, in fact. We have an additional customer base for Fried Chicken Sundays plus our regulars enjoy coming in as well.
CHEF DAVID SLAY PARK AVE – STANTON ARE THERE ANY DAYS WITH SPECIAL FRIED CHICKEN DEALS AT YOUR RESTAURANT? We do fried chicken, which we have had for 13 years on Sunday evenings only. It is a 3-course dinner for $25.50. Half a chicken brined in buttermilk with Cholula and apple cider is served with mashed potatoes and veggies, homemade butter and buttermilk chive biscuits, salad and dessert. WHY DID YOUR RESTAURANT DECIDE TO DO A FRIED CHICKEN EVENING? I’m a third-generation restaurateur. My family was known for their fried chicken in St. Louis and it is a family tradition. HOW HAS IT BEEN RECEIVED? ARE YOU USUALLY SOLD OUT? We’re pretty busy. We don’t sell it to-go; it is dine-inonly with one exception: on Academy Awards Night we sell 800 to 900 to-go fried chicken dinners. IS FRIED CHICKEN TIME-INTENSE TO PREPARE? It does require 24 hours to brine. Frying it takes time and the oil must be at the right temperature. WHY DON’T YOU HAVE IT ON YOUR MENU EVERY DAY? It is something we started as a Sunday tradition and we want to leave it that way.
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FEATURE
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
15
CHEF DE CUISINE
Chef Andrew Gruel On Slapfish, Two Birds, Butterleaf and Abroad by Taryn Sauer When Chef Andrew Gruel left the East Coast for the West, he always had plans to go back. But once his time ended at Seafood for the Future – a two-year grant project, which raised awareness of well-managed seafood – life, again, anchored him to the Pacific. He had a food truck business in the making and
Since 2012, Slapfish has grown to include
No matter the title, Chef Andrew’s business
his current Chef/Partner Jesse manned the wheel
eight franchises spanning from California to Texas
mind frame has yielded an international franchise
— a venture that would prove to be very
with plans to nearly double by the end of 2017.
and two new concepts, Two Birds and Butterleaf,
promising.
By next year, Slapfish plans to service 40 plus
that are soon to go global as well. His approach to
locations across the UK and South Korea.
each concept is specialization. Two Birds brings
Slapfish was one of the first fast-casual concepts to offer a solely seafood menu to
Even so, Chef Andrew won’t claim the role of
high-quality and responsibly-raised, fried chicken
Southern California. It was also part of the first
ground-breaker — though it can’t be denied that
to the fast-casual scene; as does Butterleaf,
wave of food trucks to hit the streets, forever
he played a part in changing the game for the way
which elevates vegetarian cuisine, packing it full
changing the way we see fast-casual cuisine.
restaurants and consumers approach fish in
of flavor, uniting veggie and meat-lovers alike.
“When we started the truck…it was a lot more
Orange County. With the fast-casual market
As for the future, he wants to get into the
cultish and we didn’t know what to expect,” Chef
completely saturated by burgers and the like,
burger industry as well, saying that chefs like to
Andrew said. “We had real culinarians running
providing high-caliber seafood in a cost-friendly
try their hand at everything. He already has a not-
the food truck. It was kind of unique that we were
style filled a niche market that needed to be
yet-launched concept in the works — Roll in the
pulling this off in a food truck.”
permeated. Slapfish’s growth speaks to his
Wall — a no-seating, window operation serving a
strategic and opportunistic sensibilities, but he
fresh take on the lobster roll, with only shrimp,
still declares himself a dishwasher.
crab and lobster on the menu.
One truck became another, and within a year, Slapfish got its first brick-and-mortar location in Huntington Beach. But getting there wasn’t
“I’m not kidding,” he said. “Regarding growth
Although still based on California’s West
without its fair share of challenges. Profit yields
and all that, that’s the team. I’ve surrounded
Coast, Chef Andrew’s culinary adventures spread
were slow to grow, often breaking even;
myself with a lot of people who are smarter than
eastward, across the Atlantic and further west
maintaining the same number of trucks was
I (I know that’s a cliché, but it’s true). When it
across
difficult; and the first lease fell through. Still,
comes to the dishwashing element, that’s legit
undoubtedly stir up even more menu variations
they continued to serve seafood under the same
and let me tell you why: when you’re in my role,
and Orange County will be lucky enough to call
ethics of sustainability, never compromising
you’re putting out fires [so you may have to move
itself home to more specialized cuisines that
quality
à la minute. The dish pit is] the best mobile office
mix quality, value and sustainability with
— it’s the car dashboard.”
comfort.
and
always
delivering
new
approachable menu items.
16
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
and
the
Pacific.
These
concepts
will
CHEF DE CUISINE F ST
O RY
C
HE
N
Y
SPO
* CJidori hicke n * SO
B RED
Photo by Michael Rutt
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
17
CHEF DE CUISINE
From the Chef’s Mouth FAVORITES:
FAMOUS CHEFS YOU’VE MET All chefs are famous
CHEF ANDREW GRUEL
KITCHEN APPLIANCE Coffee Grinder
CULINARY HEROES & WHY Pastry Chefs – Its
SLAPFISH
COOKWARE Rondeau
much harder work than people think
Multiple Locations
KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL Garlic Press
CONDIMENT Mayonnaise
Established 2012
SPICE Chinese Long Pepper
BIGGEST CULINARY INFLUENCE & WHY All my
DISH TO EAT Bear Flag Poke
cooks. They always teach me to be a better line
JUNK FOOD BBQ Potato Chips
cook and that is real cooking
www.slapfishrestaurant.com BUTTERLEAF
RAW INGREDIENT Broccoli
Irvine
FAST FOOD Taqueria Mexico
3 WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR
Established 2017
CULINARY STYLE Simple, Clean, Spicy
www.butterleaf.co
HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 80 3 WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR
TWO BIRDS
FIRST JOB Washing dishes
MANAGEMENT STYLE Watch, Listen, Learn
Irvine
FIRST INTEREST IN THE HOSPITALITY
BEST ADVICE FOR STUDENTS INTERESTED IN
INDUSTRY My bottomless stomach
THE HOSPITALITY AND CULINARY INDUSTRY
Established 2017 www.twobirdsrestaurant.com
Get a job cooking or washing dishes before school YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION 2
AVERAGE COVER Lunch: $12
PLACES TRAVELED TO EXPLORE & LEARN BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE
ADDITIONAL CUISINES Croatia, Turkey, Ukraine,
KITCHEN We eat a lot
Bulgaria, Italy, Germany
Dinner: $12
Lobster Grilled Cheese with Everything Sauce 4 oz
Lobster meat picked (or crab)
1. Start building the sandwich: Spread the
1⁄2 C
Cucumber - sliced
mascarpone cheese evenly over the inside of each
2T
Mascarpone cheese
piece of bread. Layer the bread bottoms in the
1
Ripe tomato - sliced
following order: cheese, tomato, caramelized onion (it’s
2T
Butter
ok if it is still warm), tomato, cucumber, lobster and a
1
Lemon - sliced in half
touch more cheese. Top with the remaining bread.
2T
Aged white cheddar - shredded
2. To cook the sandwich: Place half the butter in
4 slices High quality sandwich bread
the pan and heat until melted. Add the sandwich and toast over medium heat (it may take a few
EVERYTHING SAUCE
minutes on lower heat, but it is well worth the
1⁄2 C
Mayonnaise
melted crunch). Before you flip the sandwich,
1T
Pickle - chopped
add the remaining butter, then flip. Place the
This simple, crave-worthy, gooey sandwich can be
1t
Sriracha
entire pan in the oven for 5 minutes.
served as a meal or an appetizer sliced into small
1T
Pickle juice
3. For the Everything Sauce: Combine all the
pieces and drizzled with sauce. The sweet, spicy,
1t
Ketchup
ingredients in a bowl with a whisk and set aside.
smoky and rich “everything sauce” can be used
1T
Tomato juice
4. To serve: Slice the sandwich in half and serve
on, well, everything. Always have some of this in
1T
Chipotle - minced
alongside the everything sauce for dipping. Squeeze
your fridge ready to be slathered over grilled fish,
1
Lemon - zested and juiced
the lemon juice over the sandwich at the last minute
chicken, veggies, beef or even toasted bread.
1t
Honey
to add a touch of acid. For a messier, sloppier,
1t
Dijon mustard
finger-licking good time, drizzle the sauce right over
RECIPE BY CHEF ANDREW GRUEL
Serves 2
18
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
the sandwich. Garnish with fresh dill sprigs.
THE BIZ: MARKETING
Secrets to Email Marketing in the Restaurant Space email? There is also a great opportunity when dealing with multi-concept companies, as there are many strategic approaches that can be made. An example would be SoCal’s newer concepts, True Food Kitchen and North Italia, both of which are under the same parent company, Fox Restaurant Concepts. When these two restaurants each opened locations in El Segundo, they helped spread the word by sending emails to both their databases, telling each about the opening of their sister restaurant. Double the exposure, double the fun. Why was this more compelling in a customer’s inbox? Spreading news of a different restaurant is unexpected and a pleasant surprise to the customer when trying to find new places to dine. The capabilities are limitless when it comes to creativity in the email space. At Dreambox, if we don’t know how to do something, we figure it out. When it’s all said and done, the same blood, sweat and love that went into starting a brand should be YOU HAVE A RESTAURANT AND YOU HAVE A
starved society is a no-no. Don’t sacrifice your brand
applied to nurturing it and continuing to build
BRAND.
for a template; it’s not worth it.
relationships with customers. A customer should be
YOU’RE
TRYING
TO
BUILD
THE
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN YOUR CUSTOMERS
So how do you stand out in the aforementioned
just as excited to open an email from your restaurant
AND YOUR BRAND — HOW DO YOU DO THAT? We
flooded inbox? Creativity. “Be not afraid of creativity.
as they would when they see their server carrying
all love digital, right? This is our way in! To leave a
Some men are born creative, some achieve creativity
their plates to the table. Now get out there and let
lasting impression in the digital world is a language
and some have creativity thrust upon them.” Or was
your creative minds run free!
that we fully understand while working at an agency
that greatness? Either way, when we’re dealing with
with a focus in the restaurant industry. When a
email marketing, creativity is our greatness. The best
customer finishes their stellar dining experience,
creative teams are often directed to “just run with it”
their digital experience should reflect that of what
and present fun and unique ideas — of course,
they had in the restaurant. Restaurants love loyalty
following within a brand’s style guidelines. Let your
programs because they are able to regularly speak to
creative team thrive and give them room to innovate.
their customers. Creating and growing a loyalty
Without doing this, you’ll end up as another example
program on its own is another monster, which we can
of an email that gets forgotten.
ABOUT THE BIZ
Robyn Brewer and Dreambox Creations Dreambox Creations is a digitally-inspired, full
get into another day. For now, let’s focus on how to
Many brands in the industry are currently hitting
service advertising agency based in Los
be seen and remembered in a subscriber’s full and
home runs when it comes to creative and strategic
Angeles, California. With over 18 years’
loud inbox.
email deployments. Polly’s Pies, with their 16
experience working with more multi-unit
There is one dreaded word in the email marketing
locations throughout Southern California, regularly
restaurant brands than any agency. Robyn is
world that we, as an agency, avoid at all costs. That
sends their Polly’s Perks members monthly bargains.
part of their dynamic digital team; she
word is: Template. Not only are these robot-like
Instead of taking a templated route, the Polly’s Pies
manages multiple client relationships and
layouts completely overlooked in a flooded inbox, but
emails will often throw in an element of surprise —
helps with daily social media needs that help
they can often give off a vibe of being ‘too corporate;’
like animation. Who wouldn’t want to see a turkey
clients reach their digital goals. You can
which in today’s hipster-influenced, authenticity-
drinking a latte on their Thanksgiving promotions
contact her at brewer@dreamboxcreations.com
20
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
THE BIZ: TECHNOLOGY On a scale of 1 to 5, how complicated would you rate your life as a restaurateur?
5 WAYS TO SIMPLIFY YOUR LIFE
1 2 3 4 5
-
“This is a breeze!” “I get the occasional cold feet before heading into work, but overall it’s fine.” “Eh, it’s not so hot right now, but it could probably be a lot worse… Right?” “I put out fires all… day… long…” “Just drop me in that lobster pot ‘cause I’m done.”
Hopefully, most of you restaurant managers and operators only rate yourself somewhere around a 1 or 2. Anything more than that should raise a red flag. Work-related stress and employee burnout can be huge killers for your restaurant operations, employee morale, as well as guest satisfaction. If you find yourself sweating the small stuff, medium stuff, and over-sized stuff, then you’ve got to find ways to KISS it.
Keep It Simple, Stupid!
paper throughout the restaurant or as you travel to
● Truncate related tasks into a single digital
In honor of National Simplify Your Life Week, we’re
other locations. If you want to be more productive,
checklist. For instance, let’s say you’re monitoring
sharing these five tips to help you simplify your life
efficient and effective, ditch the paper and go
and managing the process of hiring for a new
as a restaurateur and get yourself—and your
digital. You’ll have real-time access to all information
position. Rather than include each individual task on
business—back on track:
and details at a moment’s notice.
your To-Do list, tuck them into a separate checklist
BE PREDICTABLE
CONSOLIDATE YOUR TECH
getting bogged down with individual tasks that can’t
Predictability can often seem boring. But, when it
There is a lot that goes into managing a restaurant —
all be done right away anyway.
comes to running a restaurant or business,
going digital is a good start, especially when there is
● Be realistic about what needs to be done and
predictability ensures structure and provides a more
more than one location to look after. You’ll need a
when. If you’re trying to run too many promotions
streamlined approach to getting things done. Consider
way to consolidate as much of your technology as
because you want to take advantage of the Pokémon
the following to make your operation run smoother:
possible. By using less hardware and software, and
GO crowd, cut out the excess. You should know your
● Consolidate
putting it all in the cloud, you and your team will
audience well enough to know what they like, so
onboarding on the same day each month.
have better insights into what’s happening across all
focus on those efforts. There’s no sense in driving
● Develop an ongoing training schedule for new
locations with simplified and enhanced visibility.
yourself crazy by trying to do too much all at once.
● Schedule team meetings on the same day and
SHORTEN YOUR TO-DO LIST
UPGRADE REGULARLY
time every month (or quarter).
Sadly, there isn’t some magic wand you can wave to
Everything in your restaurant requires upgrades at
● Perform employee reviews on the same day and
rid yourself of all the competing priorities coming your
some point: your technology, training process, menu,
time every quarter (or year).
way. Running a business is hard, but what you can do is
equipment, marketing and even your team. Rather
● Create processes that are easy to follow and
trick yourself into seeing less of your tasks at once. By
than wait for items to expire, training to go stale,
replicate for all locations and all positions.
shortening your list of current responsibilities, you can
customers to become bored and your employee
better handle the day-to-day of managing your restaurant
turnover to rise, develop a proactive system for
DITCH THE PAPER
and stress less about everything else swirling around.
keeping everything updated and refreshed regularly.
If you’re trying to simplify your life, one of the first
● Invest in a tool that will allow you to schedule
It’ll save you the trouble of taking time away from
areas to clean up is your desk. Paper is difficult to
ongoing and future tasks for later review and follow-
running the business while you deal with any one of
track and keep organized. You can’t easily carry
up. Eliminate them from your current list.
those fires.
and work off that. This will keep your To-Do list from
and
conduct
new
employee
employees and old.
ABOUT THE BIZ
Sagi Rochman and Better Chains Better Chains Founder and CEO, Sagi Rochman, is an international hospitality owner and technology innovator. After honing his restaurateur career in Israel, Rochman moved to Long Beach and opened up Sachi Bar and Sababa. When he met Marty Cox, President and Founder of It’s a Grind Coffee Franchise, they decided to collaborate on what is now, Better Chains: a technology firm that simplifies restaurant operation systems. “Technology is the answer,” he said. “The restaurants must jump in.” Better Chains products range from applicant tracking systems, to training modules, to staff scheduling and more. For more information, visit www.betterchains.com
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
21
THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR
RUM FOR YOUR INNER PIRATE molasses, and as is true with pretty much every
spirit
ever
produced,
aged between 12-25 years.
the
Next time you need to feed your inner pirate, look
enterprising slaves found a way to create
to see if you can spy any of these gems behind the
booze out of a seemingly innocuous
bar.
substance. Of course, once the colonists
“Drinking Rum before ten in the morning makes you
learned the secret to producing this high-
a pirate not an alcoholic.” Raise Up Me Hearties Yo
powered fire water, they were hooked.
Ho!!!
You
won’t
be
disappointed.
Remember
The next question is: How do we classify rum? Sure, we have all seen
ABOUT THE WRITER
the white and gold stuff that is either bland
or
artificially
colored
and
sweetened, but let's break down the other variations. Generally,
English-speaking
islands and countries are known for darker rums with a fuller taste that retain a greater amount of the underlying molasses flavor. Rums from Antigua, Trinidad and Tobago, Grenada, Barbados, Saint Lucia, Belize, Bermuda, Saint Kitts, the Demerara region of Guyana and Jamaica are typical of this style. For the most part, these rums are aged in oak barrels for five to seven years. In Jamaica, in addition to their
James Woods
traditional styles of light and dark rums, WHY IS THE RUM ALWAYS GONE? NO, SERIOUSLY!
a version called "Rude Rum" or "John Crow Batty" is
SALES REPRESENTATIVE, WINE WAREHOUSE
It has become quite the issue in my household; with
served. It weighs in at a whopping 151% alcohol by
NICKNAMES “JTB” or (“Jimmy the Brit” for
the constant demand from my better half for rum
volume. However, they do make more approachable
short).
cocktails on the weekend, to the simple fact that
light and dark rums that are generally unaged.
HOW LONG BARTENDING OR PAIRING FOOD
aged-rum makes the perfect nightcap. Which begs
French-speaking islands are best known for their
the question, why is it so hard to find good rum in a
agricultural rums (rhum agricole). These rums, being
AWARDS & CONTESTS Golden Foodie (Best
restaurant? Sure, you will see the usual suspects, but
produced exclusively from sugar cane juice, retain a
Cocktails, Hopscotch), OC Weekly People’s
considering that rum is basically the first real, true
greater amount of the original flavor of the sugar
Choice Bartender Of The Year (Hopscotch).
blue American spirit, it is pretty shocking that there
cane and are generally more expensive than
FAVORITES:
are not more options available.
molasses-based rums. Rums from Haiti, Guadeloupe
BEER I am a sucker for a good sour beer, but
and Martinique are typical of this style. Some aging
stick a Tennants Lager (Scottish) in front of
can be done, but is not typical.
me and I’m in happy land.
Rum was introduced to the colonies in the mid 1600’s by slaves brought over from the Caribbean
AND BEVERAGE? 20 Years.
islands. The first major rum producing areas, were
Spanish-speaking islands and countries such as
Staten Island, New York and Boston, Massachusetts,
Cuba, Guatemala, Panama, the Dominican Republic,
best champagne vintages in the last 50 years.)
where sugar refineries were popping up to process the
Nicaragua, Puerto Rico, Colombia and Venezuela
COCKTAIL Last Word, although a good Aviation
sugar cane before sending it off to other parts of the
traditionally produce añejo rums with an extremely
is right there with it.
world. The by-product from this refining process was
smooth taste. It is not unusual to find rums that are
COCKTAIL CREATION The Buccaneer.
22
www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017
WINE 2002 Lanson Gold Label (one of the
THE BIZ: VIN
Wines and Rinds TWO OF THE GREATEST MIRACLES OF NATURE ARE WINE AND CHEESE. Fermentation and curds happen on their own, but man’s intervention have made these two indulgences simply miraculous. If you pay attention to your wine program and serve cheese at your establishment, then, by all means, pay the same amount of attention to your cheese program. If you are in the restaurant business, take the time to get on the same page with your chef and have your wine buyer get involved with the cheese program. If you are in the retail business and have a cold box, fill it with cheese. Your sales will increase just by suggesting a wine that pairs well with a cheese. Cheese, much like wine, has a shelf life. Some cheeses ripen quickly and others benefit from age. Arm yourself with that knowledge as well as temperature, wrapping and storing, and you and your team are on your way to making more money. There are great cheese distributors in Southern California that you can call upon just as you do your wine distributors. Use your cheese sales people to help train your employees about the product. Set up a wine and cheese pairing class to give your team an understanding of how proper pairing can enhance the guest experience, drive sales and tips. Create quizzes to keep them on their toes and eager to gain knowledge. A well-rounded cheese selection is just as important as a balanced wine list. You want to offer aged, firm, blue and soft cheeses as well as cow, sheep and goat’s milk. There are also seasonal cheeses — yes, seasonal. Think about what a goat may eat a certain time of year. What a pasture offers in the summer is very
Classic Wine and Cheese Pairing Suggestions
different then what it offers in the winter. In turn, the cheese that is produced that season will be very different from another. Your cheese list should be much like your wine list. In the summer you may offer more Sauvignon Blanc (young cheese) and in the winter you may offer a bigger selection of full bodied reds (aged, stronger cheese). And like your wine list,
FROMAGE D’AFFINOIS (DOUBLE CRÈME BRIE) AND CHARDONNAY
keep it fun, plentiful and always evolving.
The creamy, buttery quality of the cheese pair perfectly with a buttery Chardonnay CHEVRE AND SAUVIGNON BLANC The tangy quality of a young, goat cheese is delightful with a citrusy crisp
ABOUT THE WRITER
Sonya Kelsen
Sauvignon Blanc CO-FOUNDER/OWNER, COLONY WINE AGED CHEDDAR OR PARMESAN WITH CABERNET SAUVIGNON
MERCHANT
A cheese that takes time to become what it should be pairs well with a wine
NICKNAME “Hey Boss Lady.”
that is aged to come in into its own
HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years.
WHEN IN DOUBT, PAIR REGIONALLY
FAVORITES:
A classic Spanish cheese is Manchego; pair that with a classic Spanish
BEER Depends on the day.
varietal, Tempranillo
WINE Depends on my mood. COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment.
THEN THERE IS THIS Wine and cheese are just simply wonderful together so just plate up and pour
COCKTAIL CREATION Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.
MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste
23
digital
catalog
advertising
web
studio
location
www.michaelrutt.com 949-322-7590 | michael@michaelrutt.com