Great Taste Magazine 2017 March April Issue

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MARCH | APRIL 2017

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FROM THE EDITOR

CONTENT F E AT U R E S 1 2 FRIED CHICKEN

D E PA RT M E N T S 6 PRODUCE PICK OF THE MONTH

Get Your Fix

16

MEET OUR CHEF DE CUISINE

Speckled Romaine

7

Andrew Gruel Publisher, Proprietor & Chief Editor teri@great-taste.net

THE BIZ 2 0 MARKETING

TERI’S TAKE

W

ho’s Hungry? That would be me. All the time. I don’t have an off switch and the best part of my job is to visit as many local restaurants as possible. It’s great to talk the restaurant biz with all you Chefs, Managers and Owners and taste the best that Orange County and Long Beach have to offer.

This issue, we dive into Fried Chicken and share input from Chefs Gabe Caliendo of Lazy Dog Café, David Slay from Park Ave, Ryan Adams of Three Seventy Common and, of course, cover Chef Andrew Gruel who just opened his latest concepts, Two Birds and Butterleaf at Trade in Irvine to complete the trifecta with Slapfish.

Summer’s here and it’s the season for brunch. Seems that the 2017 Brunch season is bigger and better than ever. We’ve been searching out the best that Orange County has to offer and next issue, we’ll chat about our best bites. Next issue we’ll also take you through some of the joys and challenges of “going international.”

Cheers!

9

RAISING THE BAR Your Inner Pirate

23

SEA | FARM | TABLE Fried Chicken

TECHNOLOGY Simplify Your Life

22

CHEESE PICK OF THE MONTH Bellwether Crescenza

Email Marketing

21

BUTCHERY Lesser Known Cuts

8

Teri Williams

Content

RECIPIES 3 THE DOUBLE BIRD IN THE HAND 8 CHEF AUSTIN LESLIE’S

VIN Wines and Rinds

FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN

18

LOBSTER GRILLED CHEESE WITH EVERYTHING SAUCE

On The Cover THE DOUBLE BIRD IN THE HAND The Double Bird in the Hand at Chef Andrew Gruel's Two Birds at Trade in Irvine is definitely a handful and also a mouthful of crispy, spicy goodness. Crispy fried chicken is layered with Slaw and Tiger Sauce on a Cornmeal Bun. View the recipe below for Chef Andrew’s secret Tiger Sauce and other favorites by Chef Andrew from Slapfish, Butterleaf and Two Birds on page 18. Photo by Michael Rutt.

TIGER SAUCE 1C 2T 1/4 C 1/2 C 1/4 C 1 1T

Mayo Sriracha Gochujang Red wine vinegar Sour cream Garlic clove - minced Chives - chopped

Blend until smooth

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

3

Books

INSIDE

SINCE 2000

RAISING CHICKENS IN YOUR BACKYARD CAN BE PRETTY SIMPLE — if you have the right know-how and nurturing hand. Caring for a baby chick takes patience and warmth — literally; hens need herding and a daily regimen of fresh feed and company. From the time a hatchling becomes a hen, a full cycle has transformed right before your eyes and soon those beautiful, un-bleached eggs appear. It’s a well-known fact that farm fresh eggs reign superior, but from your own backyard? That’s from your coop-to-table, baby. From backyard chickens to city-raised hens, the versatility of chickens is boundless. Chickens can even make great companions and the fresh, fresh eggs they produce cannot be beat.

Ready to try your hand as a mother hen? Check out our recommendations on how to get your backyard coop ready and sustainable all season.

PUBLISHER CHIEF EDITOR PROPRIETOR Teri Williams

EDITORIAL Chief Editor Teri Williams Contributors Robyn Brewer

CHICKEN AND EGG

By Chef Janice Cole

Chef Gabriel Caliendo Eric Gustafson

Chicken coops have never been so chic! From organic gardens in parking lots to rooftop beekeeping, the appeal of urban homesteading is widespread. “Chicken and Egg” tells the story of veteran food writer Janice Cole, who, like so many other urbanites, took up the revolutionary hobby of raising chickens at home. From picking out the

Sonya Kelsen Riva Lu Colton Maines Sagi Rochman

perfect coop to producing the miracle of the first egg, Cole shares her now-expert insights into the trials, triumphs, and bonds that result when human and hen live in close quarters. With 125 recipes for delicious

Taryn Sauer James Wood

chicken and egg dishes, poultry lovers, backyard farmers, and those…

FIVE FAT HENS

By Tim Halket

ART Art Direction/Design

A love of eating and of good ingredients led Tim to build a henhouse in

Lisa Brink

the corner of his garden for a daily harvest of fresh eggs. His take on the

lisa@designsmorgasbord.com

role of keeping chickens is amusing and insightful, but this book is more than just a DIY guide to keeping a few free-range birds, or a new slant on a chicken-themed cookbook. Much in the style of Nigel Slater’s “Kitchen Diaries”, it takes the reader through an entire year, month-by-

PHOTO Photography Editor

month, skillfully combining the author’s passion for cooking in diary

Michael Rutt

form interwoven with his recipes, thoughts, and observations and with

michael@michaelrutt.com

the premise that even the smallest…

BACKYARD CHICKENS BEYOND THE BASICS

By Pam Freeman A must-have for every backyard chicken keeper, “Backyard Chickens

ADVERTISING Advertising Sales Fred Burgess

Beyond the Basics” goes beyond introductory lessons and explores the realities of raising a flock for eggs — and entertainment, of course!

From odd eggs and molting to feeding and preparing for the seasons,

714-960-0534 fred@great-taste.net

this book covers the subjects beginner books don't adequately address and re-examines common knowledge that may not actually hold true.

It's a resource to turn to time and again for expert advice to make sure your birds are happy, healthy, and productive.

21851 Newland St #217 Huntington Beach, CA 92646 714-960-0534 fax 714-475-5869

To purchase these and other great publications, visit Great-Taste.net!

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017

teri@great-taste.net

INSIDE

Helping Our Customers SucDeed

THE FRESH PRODUCE SPECIALIST

SERVICE

DAIRY

PRODUCE

®

1-800-252-916 | FreshPoint.com | heProduceHunter.com 155 North Orange Avenue, City of Industry, CA 91744

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

5

INSIDE

Produce Pick of the Month SPECKLED ROMAINE IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO MAKE A TRULY DELECTABLE SALAD, try it with Speckled Romaine Lettuce; also known as Speckled Trout Lettuce or Thorburn’s Orchid Lettuce.

This special brand of heirloom romaine lettuce was first discovered in 1799 by Pennsylvania farmer Urias Martin. Known for its crisp, pale-green leaves and the red speckles that cover it, the leaves are also thinner than other romaine lettuce.

This lettuce is delicately flavored and very juicy. It goes well with ingredients like feta cheese, lemon, avocados, bell peppers, cucumbers, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, onions, tomatoes and sour cream.

In addition to traditional recipes, some others to try are Strawberry Romaine Salad, Romaine and Mandarin Orange Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing, and Winter Fruit Salad with Lemon Poppy Seed Dressing.

Speckled Romaine Lettuce should be paired with either cider, red or white wines, or sherry.

If you’re sick of the same-old lettuce check out this secret ingredient.

The produce hunter has developed close relationships with family farmers who are committed to sustainable agriculture, personable production, and the propagation and promotion of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties. From www.theproducehunter.com.

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INSIDE

BUTCHERY

FIVE LESSER-KNOWN CUTS IN OUR STORES, WE ARE OFTEN ASKED ABOUT

sell or recommend for a steak is outside skirt. It is

LESSER-KNOWN CUTS, new things to try or what

flavorful and fatty, and takes marinade well.

the next trendy cut to show up on a bistro menu might be.

TOP SIRLOIN

Some of these lesser-known cuts will hang

This cut comes from a lean, muscular part of the

around, while others are a quickly passing trend.

cow, so it carries rich, beefy flavors while still

Cuts like beef cheeks or shin are fantastic and find

retaining some tenderness. We sell ours as a

their way onto restaurant menus, but they haven’t

“Baseball Cut” steak, which look a lot like a filet in

crossed over to retail well… we haven’t sold more

the case. Like the hanger steak, this is another cut

than a handful over the years.

where I like to educate customers about the texture

Here are five cuts that seem to be gaining

and chew — just to set expectations. Top sirloin is

popularity, slowly but surely, that we think are here

typically a great value; a tender and moist cut that

to stay. As these are unfamiliar to the consumer, if

is an ideal choice for an entree.

you’re planning to add any of the following to your menu, educating your servers so they can educate the customer will be key.

THE BAVETTE Here is an underrated cut, more commonly sold as flap meat. Though not needed, this cut takes

MARROW BONES

marinade very well. Commonly sold as fajitas and

This has become a very trendy cut (can we call it a

carne asada in the West, and as steak tips in the

cut?) popping up on menus everywhere. We have

North-East, it is found on menus at restaurants

always sold a lot of marrow bones, but once we started

with many varied cuisines. This is an extremely

splitting them, we saw them fly out the door. This

versatile cut, thick and flavorful, making it a

couldn’t be a more classic dish. Once prized by kings,

perfect cut for a great tasting steak.

marrow is rich and nutrient dense. On menus, you will typically find marrow bones roasted and served with

While these cuts were once all underrated,

crusty bread. The fatty, silky, savory flavor of marrow

skirt, and hanger steaks have become more

bones make it a great cut for starter courses.

popular and their prices are reflecting an increased demand.

HANGER STEAK

When

customers

are

looking

for

something different, these are five go-to cuts that

Here is a cut that is common, and arguably too much

we feel good about recommending, and your

so, on menus in bistros. However, it can be confused

servers should too. With the right education,

by customers with flank or skirt steak. Hanger steak

preparation and expectations, these once less

has deep flavor and is tender, but it is a slightly

popular cuts continue to gain favor among diners

chewy cut. It is best prepared rare to medium rare.

and home-cooks alike. We’ve already begun to see

We often equate tenderness to greatness with steak,

our customers return happy, asking for more.

but many people prefer richness and flavor you can only get from cuts like this.

SKIRT STEAK This is another flavorful cut that should be cooked hot and quickly. We have found a lot of customers

STAY CONNECTED TO WHAT’S HOT IN THE OC We are the OC foodie connection with breaking news and events added daily!

ABOUT THE WRITERS

Brian Smith & Robert Hagopian

come back for this. What’s important here is that

Co-owners of The Butchery OC with locations

outside and inside skirt are very different, but are

in Brea, Costa Mesa and Newport Beach.

often simply sold as “skirt steak.” The only cut we

www.butcherymeats.com

Find a full listing of Calendar of Events, Happy Hours, Brunches, Restaurant Listings and more on our site!

WWW.GREAT-TASTE.NET MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

7

INSIDE

Cheese Pick of the Month

Chef Austin Leslie's Famous Fried Chicken Makes 8 pieces 1

Fryer (2-3 pounds) - cut into 8 pieces Salt and black pepper Peanut oil for deep frying

2

Eggs

1 5-oz

Can evaporated milk, light cream or half and half

5 oz

Water All-purpose flour

CRESCENZA

Wash and drain chicken pieces. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (If not cooking right away, prepare up to this point and refrigerate. Bring just to room temperature before proceeding.)

INSPIRED BY THE CENTURIES-OLD ITALIAN CHEESE STRACCHINO DI

Heat oil to 350 degrees in a deep fryer or large, heavy, deep skillet. Meanwhile,

CRESCENZA, the Bellwether Crescenza cheese is a sight and taste to

beat eggs with evaporated milk and one can (five ounces) of water. Season well

behold.

with salt and pepper.

The cheese is made primarily on Bellwether Farms in Petaluma, California by cheesemaker Liam Callahan.

This soft cheese is unlike any other with its rindless sides and almost

Dip each chicken piece into the egg wash, squeezing to drain off excess liquid; then roll in flour to coat thoroughly. Shake off excess flour, then drop coated chicken into preheated oil. Do not crowd.

gelatinous texture. The creamy surface is slightly misleading; it has been

Fry, turning often with tongs, until evenly browned and cooked through —

described as having a yeasty and acidic flavor with a hint of a yogurt tang.

about 15 minutes for larger pieces (thigh, breast, leg) and 10 minutes for wings.

The cow milk cheese is served very young but gets a creamier

When almost done, pierce each piece several times with a meat fork to allow hot

consistency near it's best by date.

Some recipes to include this with are: Crescenza Stuffed Sweet Potatoes and Crescenza and Dino Kale Gratin, or even to melt on flatbreads

oil to penetrate to the bone; then squeeze with the tongs. (It is not necessary to pierce wings.) Drain well and serve.

Recipe Courtesy of The Times-Picayune, New Orleans, Judy Walker and NOLA.com

and pizza.

It’s recommended to pair this with white wine such as Riesling and wheat beers like Pilsners and Bavarian-style Weissbiers.

The cheese is inspired by the legend of the Stracchino Crescenza in Italy, where the milk was allegedly discovered by taking the milk from cows that were brought up and down from the Alps.

For more information about Bellwether Crescenza or Bellwether Farms, and other cheese, please contact your FreshPoint representative.

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John T. Edge included Leslie in his 2004 book, “Fried Chicken: An American Story.” He notes that the chef gave out different recipes at different times, and comes up with his version of Leslie's chicken, adding Creole seasoning to the salt and pepper. He noted that the evaporated milk gives a slight sweetness to the recipe. Edge's version of Leslie's recipe was later adapted, yet again, by Food and Wine magazine.

To purchase these books and many others, visit www.great-taste.net.

INSIDE

FIRST CAME THE CHICKEN I LOVE IT WHEN SOMETHING SO BASIC AND TRADITIONAL COMES INTO THE CULINARY LIMELIGHT AS A CHIC, NEW DISH. Fried chicken, and all the variations imaginable of it, have seen a renaissance in restaurants across the country. Even upscale restaurants are taking a crack at it. How could I be left out?… couldn’t. Here’s a breakdown on my recent journey in attempting fried chicken perfection.

First came the chicken. Bone-in or no bone? Breast or dark meat? My favorite version of a good, fried chicken is simply a whole chicken that is broken down into eight pieces: breast, thighs, legs and wings times two. Cooking anything on the bone yields a more juicy and flavorful, final dish. This was the standard that I set and bounced everything off of. The problem, of course, is the application. If you want to make a sandwich using a bone-in fried chicken, it won’t work (as was my case.) Knowing that I wanted to make an entrée and a sandwich for the menu, it pretty much ruled out using a bone-in chicken product.

The next test was trying a boneless skinless breast. Big problem. First off, it was dry after cooking compared to the bone-in standard I’d set. Also, the breading has nothing to adhere to. Even though I

by Gabriel Caliendo

got a decent product, often-times the breading would crumble off after making a couple cuts with a knife and fork. There’s nothing worse than breading that falls off, but more on that later.

The final result: boneless skinless chicken thighs, just about the best of all worlds. The thigh meat is succulent and holds up well to the frying process. The surface area is rough and has plenty of little nooks and crannies for holding the breading. The breaded thighs also would work perfectly both as a sandwich and an entrée.

Now to the breading: the most difficult part by far. We tried all sorts of techniques and learned quickly that it would take some digging-in to nail down the breading. When all was said and done, we settled on a very flavorful seasoned buttermilk marinade and flour dredge. We learned that the double

VP OF RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT, LAZY

dredge was the key and that allowing it to rest a bit before frying was also important. The toughest part

DOG RESTAURANT & BAR, CORPORATE

is managing the prep and storage for service throughout the entire day.

EXECUTIVE CHEF

The cooking process is very standard, but also critical in its need for precision. A fat fry at about

NICKNAME “Gabe”.

320 degrees, yields the golden-brown crust while cooking the chicken completely through to the

HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE

center. A dust of salt on each side just after removing from the fryer, seals the deal.

25 years.

After cooking, the Lazy Dog fried chicken is super crispy and light with flakes of highly seasoned

FAVORITES:

breading, protruding on the outside yet adhering completely, bite after bite. The inside is juicy and

BEER Sculpin IPA.

succulent with plenty of flavor you would expect from a bone-in version. The chicken works very well in

WINE Inkblot Petite Verdot.

the sandwich application with house-made spicy pimento cheese spread, crispy iceberg lettuce and quick-

COCKTAIL Lemon Verbena & crushed

pickled jalapenos. The entrée is served with our scratch-made white gravy, garlic butter-grilled, sweet

Oranges with Vodka.

white corn and bacon-sautéed baby spinach. Add a cold beer and things just don’t get much better.

Photo by Rebecca Simms, Lazy Dog Cafe

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

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ADVERTISEMENT

INSIDE

The Food World’s Three Stooges A None-Too-Sweet Story of Disinformation, Conflict of Interest and Misdirection WHEN MOE, LARRY AND CURLY RULED HOLLYWOOD

Study” in the 1950s compared the health and diet

can now make an even better case that people need

— or at least Saturday mornings — physical comedy and

of some 13,000 middle-aged men in the U.S., Japan

to think critically about claims that don't comport

slapstick got a rise out of audiences. The Stooges were

and Europe, concluding that populations that

with their own experience.

classic icons of misdirection.

consumed large amounts of saturated fats in meat

The exclamation point on all this is Michele

Fast forward a few generations. The latter-day

and dairy had high levels of heart disease, while

Hozer’s award-winning documentary “Sugar Coated”

troika of Ancel, Big Sugar and Unilever are managing

those who ate more grains, fish, nuts and vegetables

(www.sugarcoateddoc.com), on Netflix, a brilliant

to evoke the 1930s trio, minus the nyuk, nyuk,

did not.

expose of “sugar politics.” “Sugar Coated” may not

nyuks. It’s a story of food “science” reading much

This past September, the sugar industry again was

be as funny as “Beer and Pretzels” or “Ants in the

more like science fiction, with decidedly unfunny

caught with its hand in the proverbial cookie jar

Pantry” from the Three Stooges — it’s actually not

consequences for consumers, legitimate science and

when the Journal of the American Medical

funny at all — but there’s not a moment of

entire industries.

Association (JAMA) Internal Medicine reported a new

misdirection in it.

“Ancel” would-be pioneer food propagandist,

University of California finding that, in the 1960s,

Ancel Keys; Big Sugar, the multi-billion dollar

the industry paid scientists to produce research

juggernaut that threw truth under the bus while

downplaying the link between sugar and heart

fingering animal fats as culpable for America's

disease — and playing up saturated fat’s role.

health woes, and Unilever, the latest conglomerate to

Although the payment was hush-hush when the

Would that the disciples of Ancel Keys had been as circumspect.

ABOUT THE WRITER

enlist academia in subverting research. As Daniel

study was published, the findings influenced

Engber understates in his review of Gary Taubes’ new

nutritional recommendations from public health

Eric R. Gustafson

book, The Case Against Sugar in The Atlantic, “In

officials and the supposedly rock-solid U.S. Dietary

Eric R. Gustafson is CEO of Coast Packing

the past few years, the dangers of dietary fat have

Guidelines.

Company in Los Angeles, the number one

begun to look as though they were overstated, and

And so it goes.

supplier of animal fat shortenings in the

the risks of sugar underplayed.”

From my POV, this is only tangentially about sugar

Talk about fake news. There is a pattern here that predates

the

current

media

meltdown

itself. The big takeaway — the “Three Stooges

by

moment,” if you will — concerns a brazen and

generations, and it speaks to a lack of discernment

sustained, if sub rosa, campaign to point the finger

among those both inside and outside the “food

at animal fats and away from some pretty toxic stuff

establishment”.

in America’s cupboard.

When few were looking closely, Minnesota

The story — if you can call decades of

pathologist, Keys, played a shell game with science

disinformation “a story” — is that one industry

and with competing sectors of the food processing

slandered another in the interests of profit and in

industry, as Taubes recounts in his book. For his part,

total disregard of consumers and their health. We

Keys was just warming up: his “Seven Countries

who speak on behalf of “healthy fats” consumption

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www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017

Western United States.

INSIDE

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MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

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FEATURE

Fried Chicken Dinners

by Riva Lu

Restaurants across Orange County have used their creativity to celebrate chicken by dedicating their menus solely for fried chicken, reserving a special day of the week or month for the feast or by building specials around the crispy delight.

Though fried chicken is nothing new or unique, it has been a longstanding favorite amongst many over the years and is known to raise sales. To compensate for spicy or salty flavors, restaurant owners have also found that beer sales increase as customers find the pair to be complementary.

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FEATURE

Photos by Bonchon

FOOD

HAVING

a well-known fact that chicken is everyone’s go-to

and wings have become an inexpensive byproduct

INEXPENSIVE CHICKEN DISHES WILL BRING

FANATICS

SAYS

THAT

protein. I think that there’s so much low-quality

for chicken producers. Chicken is being sold for

DOWN THE AVERAGE FROM HIGHER-END

chicken on the market that we really want to

85 cents per pound at wholesale broiler prices,

PROTEINS, such as beef, which can be very cost-

celebrate a higher standard for chicken, but also

which has been the lowest it has been since

efficient for your restaurant and today’s price

make it fun and approachable because who doesn’t

2011. There are conflicting reports and BMO

conscious diners. Restaurant Business Online

love fried chicken or chicken sandwiches?”

Capital Markets analysts Andrew Strelzik and

advises that chicken-focused menus yield better

Another local star in fast-casual, Nathaniel

Ryan Royce said they found that the price of

margins but chicken dinner menu prices “ain’t

Nguyen (Jinny’s Pizza), just opened Rooster

chicken wings increased nearly 11 percent last

what they used to be”.

Republic at Santa Ana’s McFadden Public

week to $1.91 each, compared to the same time

Market.

a year ago, causing troubling news and stress for

Restaurants such as Park Ave, Grits and Three Seventy Common bring their own family traditions

Bruxie is known for their fried chicken and

to incorporate into fried chicken nights each week.

waffle sandwiches and a big bite of bird holds

Three Seventy Common in Laguna Beach

their number one seller spot with the “Original”

Korean concepts such as the Bonchon

proudly claims to be the first restaurant in Orange

sandwich, double dipped with a combination of

franchise founded in Busan, South Korea,

County to have prix-fixe Fried Chicken Nights.

spices, fried, then coated with chile honey and

specializing in Korean-style fried chicken, are on

Chef Ryan Adams started the special dining date

topped with cider slaw, between two crispy

the rise in Orange County.

to honor fond, childhood memories.

waffles.

wing giants like Buffalo Wild Wings, Wing Stop, Chick-fil-A, Popeyes and the like.

Today, fried chicken concepts continue to dot

Chef and Founder of Slapfish, Andrew Gruel,

“It takes time to prepare a quality product, but

the OC restaurant scene. Hungry customers

just opened his first fried chicken concept, “Two

it’s so worth the wait,” Bruxie’s Director of

continually show their love and obsession for fried

Birds” at Trade Food Hall in Irvine, and uses

Marketing, Cathy Peterson, said. “Our chicken is

chicken and restaurants continue to provide to

high-quality Jidori chicken, a local free-range

always marinated for 24 hours, and all items are

their satisfaction. Does your restaurant have what

farm out of Los Angeles.

cooked to order.”

it takes to specialize in fried chicken?

“I’ve already done seafood and the burger

According to the Chicken Council, U.S.

market is totally saturated,” Chef Gruel said. “It’s

consumers prefer boneless-skinless breast meat,

Following are a few restaurants that share their love for fried chicken.

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

13

FEATURE

CHEF RYAN ADAMS THREE SEVENTY COMMON – LAGUNA BEACH WHY IS FRIED CHICKEN SO POPULAR? Fried chicken is popular because it reminds people of being a kid – food is about memories. This is why I started our Fried Chicken Nights at Three Seventy Common, and I’m proud to claim we were the first restaurant to offer Fried Chicken Nights in Orange County. The concept really took off after that.

WHY DID YOUR RESTAURANT DECIDE TO DO A FRIED CHICKEN EVENING? We started the Fried Chicken Sundays because fried chicken is a meal that everyone can relate to and usually brings back fond, childhood memories.

WHAT ARE SOME CHICKEN SPECIALTIES YOUR RESTAURANT HAS TO OFFER? Fried Chicken Sunday is offered on the last Sunday of each month. Another delicious chicken dish available on our regular menu is the ‘All Natural Chicken’ served with onion, risotto, olive, caper, lemon, chile, garlic and herbs.

HOW HAS IT BEEN RECEIVED? ARE YOU USUALLY SOLD OUT? Our Fried Chicken Sundays have been very well received by both locals and visitors. We typically sell out for each dinner, so reservations are highly recommended. Fried Chicken Night is on the last Sunday of every month 5:00-9:00pm; Priced at $42 for adults and $21 for kids under 10, it includes chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy, fresh green beans, kale salad, coleslaw and leafy greens braised with pork belly (sides vary based on fresh market availability.)

WHY DO YOU NOT HAVE IT ON YOUR MENU EVERY DAY? We don’t offer this meal nightly because it’s a prix fixe dinner.

Also, the restaurant only has one deep fryer and most of the regular menu, fried items are gluten free.

HAS IT BROUGHT YOU AN ADDITIONAL CUSTOMER BASE AND/OR DO YOUR REGULAR CUSTOMERS COME ON AN ADDITIONAL NIGHT FOR THAT SPECIAL? Both, in fact. We have an additional customer base for Fried Chicken Sundays plus our regulars enjoy coming in as well.

CHEF DAVID SLAY PARK AVE – STANTON ARE THERE ANY DAYS WITH SPECIAL FRIED CHICKEN DEALS AT YOUR RESTAURANT? We do fried chicken, which we have had for 13 years on Sunday evenings only. It is a 3-course dinner for $25.50. Half a chicken brined in buttermilk with Cholula and apple cider is served with mashed potatoes and veggies, homemade butter and buttermilk chive biscuits, salad and dessert.

WHY DID YOUR RESTAURANT DECIDE TO DO A FRIED CHICKEN EVENING? I’m a third-generation restaurateur. My family was known for their fried chicken in St. Louis and it is a family tradition.

HOW HAS IT BEEN RECEIVED? ARE YOU USUALLY SOLD OUT? We’re pretty busy. We don’t sell it to-go; it is dine-inonly with one exception: on Academy Awards Night we sell 800 to 900 to-go fried chicken dinners.

IS FRIED CHICKEN TIME-INTENSE TO PREPARE? It does require 24 hours to brine. Frying it takes time and the oil must be at the right temperature.

WHY DON’T YOU HAVE IT ON YOUR MENU EVERY DAY? It is something we started as a Sunday tradition and we want to leave it that way.

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FEATURE

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

15

CHEF DE CUISINE

Chef Andrew Gruel On Slapfish, Two Birds, Butterleaf and Abroad

by Taryn Sauer When Chef Andrew Gruel left the East Coast for the West, he always had plans to go back. But once his time ended at Seafood for the Future – a two-year grant project, which raised awareness of well-managed seafood – life, again, anchored him to the Pacific.

He had a food truck business in the making and

Since 2012, Slapfish has grown to include

No matter the title, Chef Andrew’s business

his current Chef/Partner Jesse manned the wheel

eight franchises spanning from California to Texas

mind frame has yielded an international franchise

— a venture that would prove to be very

with plans to nearly double by the end of 2017.

and two new concepts, Two Birds and Butterleaf,

promising.

By next year, Slapfish plans to service 40 plus

that are soon to go global as well. His approach to

locations across the UK and South Korea.

each concept is specialization. Two Birds brings

Slapfish was one of the first fast-casual concepts to offer a solely seafood menu to

Even so, Chef Andrew won’t claim the role of

high-quality and responsibly-raised, fried chicken

Southern California. It was also part of the first

ground-breaker — though it can’t be denied that

to the fast-casual scene; as does Butterleaf,

wave of food trucks to hit the streets, forever

he played a part in changing the game for the way

which elevates vegetarian cuisine, packing it full

changing the way we see fast-casual cuisine.

restaurants and consumers approach fish in

of flavor, uniting veggie and meat-lovers alike.

“When we started the truck…it was a lot more

Orange County. With the fast-casual market

As for the future, he wants to get into the

cultish and we didn’t know what to expect,” Chef

completely saturated by burgers and the like,

burger industry as well, saying that chefs like to

Andrew said. “We had real culinarians running

providing high-caliber seafood in a cost-friendly

try their hand at everything. He already has a not-

the food truck. It was kind of unique that we were

style filled a niche market that needed to be

yet-launched concept in the works — Roll in the

pulling this off in a food truck.”

permeated. Slapfish’s growth speaks to his

Wall — a no-seating, window operation serving a

strategic and opportunistic sensibilities, but he

fresh take on the lobster roll, with only shrimp,

still declares himself a dishwasher.

crab and lobster on the menu.

One truck became another, and within a year, Slapfish got its first brick-and-mortar location in Huntington Beach. But getting there wasn’t

“I’m not kidding,” he said. “Regarding growth

Although still based on California’s West

without its fair share of challenges. Profit yields

and all that, that’s the team. I’ve surrounded

Coast, Chef Andrew’s culinary adventures spread

were slow to grow, often breaking even;

myself with a lot of people who are smarter than

eastward, across the Atlantic and further west

maintaining the same number of trucks was

I (I know that’s a cliché, but it’s true). When it

across

difficult; and the first lease fell through. Still,

comes to the dishwashing element, that’s legit

undoubtedly stir up even more menu variations

they continued to serve seafood under the same

and let me tell you why: when you’re in my role,

and Orange County will be lucky enough to call

ethics of sustainability, never compromising

you’re putting out fires [so you may have to move

itself home to more specialized cuisines that

quality

à la minute. The dish pit is] the best mobile office

mix quality, value and sustainability with

— it’s the car dashboard.”

comfort.

and

always

delivering

new

approachable menu items.

16

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017

and

the

Pacific.

These

concepts

will

CHEF DE CUISINE F ST

O RY

C

HE

N

Y

SPO

* CJidori hicke n * SO

B RED

Photo by Michael Rutt

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

17

CHEF DE CUISINE

From the Chef’s Mouth FAVORITES:

FAMOUS CHEFS YOU’VE MET All chefs are famous

CHEF ANDREW GRUEL

KITCHEN APPLIANCE Coffee Grinder

CULINARY HEROES & WHY Pastry Chefs – Its

SLAPFISH

COOKWARE Rondeau

much harder work than people think

Multiple Locations

KITCHEN GADGET OR TOOL Garlic Press

CONDIMENT Mayonnaise

Established 2012

SPICE Chinese Long Pepper

BIGGEST CULINARY INFLUENCE & WHY All my

DISH TO EAT Bear Flag Poke

cooks. They always teach me to be a better line

JUNK FOOD BBQ Potato Chips

cook and that is real cooking

www.slapfishrestaurant.com BUTTERLEAF

RAW INGREDIENT Broccoli

Irvine

FAST FOOD Taqueria Mexico

3 WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR

Established 2017

CULINARY STYLE Simple, Clean, Spicy

www.butterleaf.co

HOURS YOU WORK IN A WEEK 80 3 WORDS THAT BEST DESCRIBE YOUR

TWO BIRDS

FIRST JOB Washing dishes

MANAGEMENT STYLE Watch, Listen, Learn

Irvine

FIRST INTEREST IN THE HOSPITALITY

BEST ADVICE FOR STUDENTS INTERESTED IN

INDUSTRY My bottomless stomach

THE HOSPITALITY AND CULINARY INDUSTRY

Established 2017 www.twobirdsrestaurant.com

Get a job cooking or washing dishes before school YEARS OF CULINARY EDUCATION 2

AVERAGE COVER Lunch: $12

PLACES TRAVELED TO EXPLORE & LEARN BIGGEST MYTH ABOUT WORKING IN THE

ADDITIONAL CUISINES Croatia, Turkey, Ukraine,

KITCHEN We eat a lot

Bulgaria, Italy, Germany

Dinner: $12

Lobster Grilled Cheese with Everything Sauce 4 oz

Lobster meat picked (or crab)

1. Start building the sandwich: Spread the

1⁄2 C

Cucumber - sliced

mascarpone cheese evenly over the inside of each

2T

Mascarpone cheese

piece of bread. Layer the bread bottoms in the

1

Ripe tomato - sliced

following order: cheese, tomato, caramelized onion (it’s

2T

Butter

ok if it is still warm), tomato, cucumber, lobster and a

1

Lemon - sliced in half

touch more cheese. Top with the remaining bread.

2T

Aged white cheddar - shredded

2. To cook the sandwich: Place half the butter in

4 slices High quality sandwich bread

the pan and heat until melted. Add the sandwich and toast over medium heat (it may take a few

EVERYTHING SAUCE

minutes on lower heat, but it is well worth the

1⁄2 C

Mayonnaise

melted crunch). Before you flip the sandwich,

1T

Pickle - chopped

add the remaining butter, then flip. Place the

This simple, crave-worthy, gooey sandwich can be

1t

Sriracha

entire pan in the oven for 5 minutes.

served as a meal or an appetizer sliced into small

1T

Pickle juice

3. For the Everything Sauce: Combine all the

pieces and drizzled with sauce. The sweet, spicy,

1t

Ketchup

ingredients in a bowl with a whisk and set aside.

smoky and rich “everything sauce” can be used

1T

Tomato juice

4. To serve: Slice the sandwich in half and serve

on, well, everything. Always have some of this in

1T

Chipotle - minced

alongside the everything sauce for dipping. Squeeze

your fridge ready to be slathered over grilled fish,

1

Lemon - zested and juiced

the lemon juice over the sandwich at the last minute

chicken, veggies, beef or even toasted bread.

1t

Honey

to add a touch of acid. For a messier, sloppier,

1t

Dijon mustard

finger-licking good time, drizzle the sauce right over

RECIPE BY CHEF ANDREW GRUEL

Serves 2

18

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017

the sandwich. Garnish with fresh dill sprigs.

THE BIZ: MARKETING

Secrets to Email Marketing in the Restaurant Space email? There is also a great opportunity when dealing with multi-concept companies, as there are many strategic approaches that can be made. An example would be SoCal’s newer concepts, True Food Kitchen and North Italia, both of which are under the same parent company, Fox Restaurant Concepts. When these two restaurants each opened locations in El Segundo, they helped spread the word by sending emails to both their databases, telling each about the opening of their sister restaurant. Double the exposure, double the fun. Why was this more compelling in a customer’s inbox? Spreading news of a different restaurant is unexpected and a pleasant surprise to the customer when trying to find new places to dine. The capabilities are limitless when it comes to creativity in the email space. At Dreambox, if we don’t know how to do something, we figure it out.

When it’s all said and done, the same blood, sweat and love that went into starting a brand should be YOU HAVE A RESTAURANT AND YOU HAVE A

starved society is a no-no. Don’t sacrifice your brand

applied to nurturing it and continuing to build

BRAND.

for a template; it’s not worth it.

relationships with customers. A customer should be

YOU’RE

TRYING

TO

BUILD

THE

RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN YOUR CUSTOMERS

So how do you stand out in the aforementioned

just as excited to open an email from your restaurant

AND YOUR BRAND — HOW DO YOU DO THAT? We

flooded inbox? Creativity. “Be not afraid of creativity.

as they would when they see their server carrying

all love digital, right? This is our way in! To leave a

Some men are born creative, some achieve creativity

their plates to the table. Now get out there and let

lasting impression in the digital world is a language

and some have creativity thrust upon them.” Or was

your creative minds run free!

that we fully understand while working at an agency

that greatness? Either way, when we’re dealing with

with a focus in the restaurant industry. When a

email marketing, creativity is our greatness. The best

customer finishes their stellar dining experience,

creative teams are often directed to “just run with it”

their digital experience should reflect that of what

and present fun and unique ideas — of course,

they had in the restaurant. Restaurants love loyalty

following within a brand’s style guidelines. Let your

programs because they are able to regularly speak to

creative team thrive and give them room to innovate.

their customers. Creating and growing a loyalty

Without doing this, you’ll end up as another example

program on its own is another monster, which we can

of an email that gets forgotten.

ABOUT THE BIZ

Robyn Brewer and Dreambox Creations Dreambox Creations is a digitally-inspired, full

get into another day. For now, let’s focus on how to

Many brands in the industry are currently hitting

service advertising agency based in Los

be seen and remembered in a subscriber’s full and

home runs when it comes to creative and strategic

Angeles, California. With over 18 years’

loud inbox.

email deployments. Polly’s Pies, with their 16

experience working with more multi-unit

There is one dreaded word in the email marketing

locations throughout Southern California, regularly

restaurant brands than any agency. Robyn is

world that we, as an agency, avoid at all costs. That

sends their Polly’s Perks members monthly bargains.

part of their dynamic digital team; she

word is: Template. Not only are these robot-like

Instead of taking a templated route, the Polly’s Pies

manages multiple client relationships and

layouts completely overlooked in a flooded inbox, but

emails will often throw in an element of surprise —

helps with daily social media needs that help

they can often give off a vibe of being ‘too corporate;’

like animation. Who wouldn’t want to see a turkey

clients reach their digital goals. You can

which in today’s hipster-influenced, authenticity-

drinking a latte on their Thanksgiving promotions

contact her at brewer@dreamboxcreations.com

20

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017

THE BIZ: TECHNOLOGY On a scale of 1 to 5, how complicated would you rate your life as a restaurateur?

5 WAYS TO SIMPLIFY YOUR LIFE

1 2 3 4 5

-

“This is a breeze!”

“I get the occasional cold feet before heading into work, but overall it’s fine.”

“Eh, it’s not so hot right now, but it could probably be a lot worse… Right?”

“I put out fires all… day… long…”

“Just drop me in that lobster pot ‘cause I’m done.”

Hopefully, most of you restaurant managers and operators only rate yourself somewhere around a 1 or 2. Anything more than that should raise a red flag. Work-related stress and employee burnout can be huge killers for your restaurant operations, employee morale, as well as guest satisfaction. If you find yourself sweating the small stuff, medium stuff, and over-sized stuff, then you’ve got to find ways to KISS it.

Keep It Simple, Stupid!

paper throughout the restaurant or as you travel to

● Truncate related tasks into a single digital

In honor of National Simplify Your Life Week, we’re

other locations. If you want to be more productive,

checklist. For instance, let’s say you’re monitoring

sharing these five tips to help you simplify your life

efficient and effective, ditch the paper and go

and managing the process of hiring for a new

as a restaurateur and get yourself—and your

digital. You’ll have real-time access to all information

position. Rather than include each individual task on

business—back on track:

and details at a moment’s notice.

your To-Do list, tuck them into a separate checklist

BE PREDICTABLE

CONSOLIDATE YOUR TECH

getting bogged down with individual tasks that can’t

Predictability can often seem boring. But, when it

There is a lot that goes into managing a restaurant —

all be done right away anyway.

comes to running a restaurant or business,

going digital is a good start, especially when there is

● Be realistic about what needs to be done and

predictability ensures structure and provides a more

more than one location to look after. You’ll need a

when. If you’re trying to run too many promotions

streamlined approach to getting things done. Consider

way to consolidate as much of your technology as

because you want to take advantage of the Pokémon

the following to make your operation run smoother:

possible. By using less hardware and software, and

GO crowd, cut out the excess. You should know your

● Consolidate

putting it all in the cloud, you and your team will

audience well enough to know what they like, so

onboarding on the same day each month.

have better insights into what’s happening across all

focus on those efforts. There’s no sense in driving

● Develop an ongoing training schedule for new

locations with simplified and enhanced visibility.

yourself crazy by trying to do too much all at once.

● Schedule team meetings on the same day and

SHORTEN YOUR TO-DO LIST

UPGRADE REGULARLY

time every month (or quarter).

Sadly, there isn’t some magic wand you can wave to

Everything in your restaurant requires upgrades at

● Perform employee reviews on the same day and

rid yourself of all the competing priorities coming your

some point: your technology, training process, menu,

time every quarter (or year).

way. Running a business is hard, but what you can do is

equipment, marketing and even your team. Rather

● Create processes that are easy to follow and

trick yourself into seeing less of your tasks at once. By

than wait for items to expire, training to go stale,

replicate for all locations and all positions.

shortening your list of current responsibilities, you can

customers to become bored and your employee

better handle the day-to-day of managing your restaurant

turnover to rise, develop a proactive system for

DITCH THE PAPER

and stress less about everything else swirling around.

keeping everything updated and refreshed regularly.

If you’re trying to simplify your life, one of the first

● Invest in a tool that will allow you to schedule

It’ll save you the trouble of taking time away from

areas to clean up is your desk. Paper is difficult to

ongoing and future tasks for later review and follow-

running the business while you deal with any one of

track and keep organized. You can’t easily carry

up. Eliminate them from your current list.

those fires.

and work off that. This will keep your To-Do list from

and

conduct

new

employee

employees and old.

ABOUT THE BIZ

Sagi Rochman and Better Chains Better Chains Founder and CEO, Sagi Rochman, is an international hospitality owner and technology innovator. After honing his restaurateur career in Israel, Rochman moved to Long Beach and opened up Sachi Bar and Sababa. When he met Marty Cox, President and Founder of It’s a Grind Coffee Franchise, they decided to collaborate on what is now, Better Chains: a technology firm that simplifies restaurant operation systems.

“Technology is the answer,” he said. “The restaurants must jump in.”

Better Chains products range from applicant tracking systems, to training modules, to staff scheduling and more. For more information, visit www.betterchains.com

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

21

THE BIZ: RAISING THE BAR

RUM FOR YOUR INNER PIRATE molasses, and as is true with pretty much every

spirit

ever

produced,

aged between 12-25 years.

the

Next time you need to feed your inner pirate, look

enterprising slaves found a way to create

to see if you can spy any of these gems behind the

booze out of a seemingly innocuous

bar.

substance. Of course, once the colonists

“Drinking Rum before ten in the morning makes you

learned the secret to producing this high-

a pirate not an alcoholic.” Raise Up Me Hearties Yo

powered fire water, they were hooked.

Ho!!!

You

won’t

be

disappointed.

Remember

The next question is: How do we classify rum? Sure, we have all seen

ABOUT THE WRITER

the white and gold stuff that is either bland

or

artificially

colored

and

sweetened, but let's break down the other variations.

Generally,

English-speaking

islands and countries are known for darker rums with a fuller taste that retain a greater amount of the underlying molasses flavor. Rums from Antigua, Trinidad and Tobago, Grenada, Barbados, Saint Lucia, Belize, Bermuda, Saint Kitts, the Demerara region of Guyana and Jamaica are typical of this style. For the most part, these rums are aged in oak barrels for five to seven years.

In Jamaica, in addition to their

James Woods

traditional styles of light and dark rums, WHY IS THE RUM ALWAYS GONE? NO, SERIOUSLY!

a version called "Rude Rum" or "John Crow Batty" is

SALES REPRESENTATIVE, WINE WAREHOUSE

It has become quite the issue in my household; with

served. It weighs in at a whopping 151% alcohol by

NICKNAMES “JTB” or (“Jimmy the Brit” for

the constant demand from my better half for rum

volume. However, they do make more approachable

short).

cocktails on the weekend, to the simple fact that

light and dark rums that are generally unaged.

HOW LONG BARTENDING OR PAIRING FOOD

aged-rum makes the perfect nightcap. Which begs

French-speaking islands are best known for their

the question, why is it so hard to find good rum in a

agricultural rums (rhum agricole). These rums, being

AWARDS & CONTESTS Golden Foodie (Best

restaurant? Sure, you will see the usual suspects, but

produced exclusively from sugar cane juice, retain a

Cocktails, Hopscotch), OC Weekly People’s

considering that rum is basically the first real, true

greater amount of the original flavor of the sugar

Choice Bartender Of The Year (Hopscotch).

blue American spirit, it is pretty shocking that there

cane and are generally more expensive than

FAVORITES:

are not more options available.

molasses-based rums. Rums from Haiti, Guadeloupe

BEER I am a sucker for a good sour beer, but

and Martinique are typical of this style. Some aging

stick a Tennants Lager (Scottish) in front of

can be done, but is not typical.

me and I’m in happy land.

Rum was introduced to the colonies in the mid 1600’s by slaves brought over from the Caribbean

AND BEVERAGE? 20 Years.

islands. The first major rum producing areas, were

Spanish-speaking islands and countries such as

Staten Island, New York and Boston, Massachusetts,

Cuba, Guatemala, Panama, the Dominican Republic,

best champagne vintages in the last 50 years.)

where sugar refineries were popping up to process the

Nicaragua, Puerto Rico, Colombia and Venezuela

COCKTAIL Last Word, although a good Aviation

sugar cane before sending it off to other parts of the

traditionally produce añejo rums with an extremely

is right there with it.

world. The by-product from this refining process was

smooth taste. It is not unusual to find rums that are

COCKTAIL CREATION The Buccaneer.

22

www.great-taste.net | MARCH | APRIL 2017

WINE 2002 Lanson Gold Label (one of the

THE BIZ: VIN

Wines and Rinds TWO OF THE GREATEST MIRACLES OF NATURE ARE WINE AND CHEESE. Fermentation and curds happen on their own, but man’s intervention have made these two indulgences simply miraculous.

If you pay attention to your wine program and serve cheese at your establishment, then, by all means, pay the same amount of attention to your cheese program. If you are in the restaurant business, take the time to get on the same page with your chef and have your wine buyer get involved with the cheese program. If you are in the retail business and have a cold box, fill it with cheese.

Your sales will increase just by suggesting a wine that pairs well with a cheese.

Cheese, much like wine, has a shelf life. Some cheeses ripen quickly and others benefit from age. Arm yourself with that knowledge as well as temperature, wrapping and storing, and you and your team are on your way to making more money.

There are great cheese distributors in Southern California that you can call upon just as you do your wine distributors. Use your cheese sales people to help train your employees about the product. Set up a wine and cheese pairing class to give your team an understanding of how proper pairing can enhance the guest experience, drive sales and tips. Create quizzes to keep them on their toes and eager to gain knowledge.

A well-rounded cheese selection is just as important as a balanced wine list.

You want to offer aged, firm, blue and soft cheeses as well as cow, sheep and goat’s milk. There are also seasonal cheeses — yes, seasonal. Think about what a goat may eat a certain time of year. What a pasture offers in the summer is very

Classic Wine and Cheese Pairing Suggestions

different then what it offers in the winter. In turn, the cheese that is produced that season will be very different from another.

Your cheese list should be much like your wine list. In the summer you may offer more Sauvignon Blanc (young cheese) and in the winter you may offer a bigger selection of full bodied reds (aged, stronger cheese). And like your wine list,

FROMAGE D’AFFINOIS (DOUBLE CRÈME BRIE) AND CHARDONNAY

keep it fun, plentiful and always evolving.

The creamy, buttery quality of the cheese pair perfectly with a buttery Chardonnay CHEVRE AND SAUVIGNON BLANC The tangy quality of a young, goat cheese is delightful with a citrusy crisp

ABOUT THE WRITER

Sonya Kelsen

Sauvignon Blanc CO-FOUNDER/OWNER, COLONY WINE AGED CHEDDAR OR PARMESAN WITH CABERNET SAUVIGNON

MERCHANT

A cheese that takes time to become what it should be pairs well with a wine

NICKNAME “Hey Boss Lady.”

that is aged to come in into its own

HOW LONG PAIRING FOOD & BEVERAGE 20 years.

WHEN IN DOUBT, PAIR REGIONALLY

FAVORITES:

A classic Spanish cheese is Manchego; pair that with a classic Spanish

BEER Depends on the day.

varietal, Tempranillo

WINE Depends on my mood.

COCKTAIL Old Fashioned, at the moment.

THEN THERE IS THIS Wine and cheese are just simply wonderful together so just plate up and pour

COCKTAIL CREATION Silver tequila straight out of the freezer.

MARCH | APRIL 2017 | great taste

23

digital

catalog

advertising

web

studio

location

www.michaelrutt.com 949-322-7590 | michael@michaelrutt.com