TEXT Ekaterina Krotova President of the Roman Association of Hotel Concierges “Les Clefs d’Or”
Dear Guest, On behalf of all the Golden Keys Concierges, we wish you a very warm welcome to Rome!
Rome Concierge Information magazine is our concrete commitment to making your stay in our city a truly memorable experience. In this magazine you will find all the information
youmight need and, above all, our suggestions for the best the city has to offer this fall.
In this issue, provided personally to you by us, we will share the events you should not miss, the most amusing exhibitions to visit in the city and tips on some great roman tratorias that are absolutely worth trying. Along with this, the best wineries in the Lazio region to visit this autumn and a complete guide to the most renowned markets for an authentic Roman shopping experience.
We remain at your disposal at our hotels, delighted to receive your inquiries and requests.
From all of us, have a wonderful and amazing stay!
NOVEMBER 27, 29, 30
2024 DECEMBER 1, 3, 4, 5
GIUSEPPE VERDI SIMON BOCCANEGRA
JANUARY 14, 16, 17, 18, 19
MARCH 1, 2, 4, 5, 6
MAY 9, 11, 13
GIACOMO PUCCINI TOSCA
FEBRUARY 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23
GAETANO DONIZETTI LUCREZIA BORGIA
MARCH 18, 21, 23, 25, 26
GEORG FRIEDRICH HÄNDEL ALCINA
APRIL 23, 24, 26, 27, 29. MAY 2
GIACOMO PUCCINI SUOR ANGELICA
LUIGI DALLAPICCOLA IL PRIGIONIERO
MAY 14, 16, 18, 21, 23
WOLFGANG
AMADEUS MOZART IL RE PA STORE
JUNE 5, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12
GIOACHINO ROSSINI L’ITALIANA IN ALGERI
JUNE 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28
GEORGES BIZET CARMEN
SEPTEMBER 19, 23, 25, 27, 28
BENJAMIN BRITTEN THE TURN OF THE SCREW
OCTOBER 9, 11, 12, 14, 16
KAI A SAARIAHO ADRIANA MATER
OCTOBER 18, 19, 21, 23, 24
LEOŠ JANÁČEK IL DIARIO DI UNO SCOMPARSO
FRANCIS POULENC LA VOIX HUMAINE
OCTOBER 26, 28, 29, 30, 31
GIOVANNI BATTISTA PERGOLESI
GIACINTO SCELSI STABAT MATER
2024/2025 SEASON
2024 DECEMBER 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24
PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKI LO SCHIACCIANOCI
2024 DECEMBER 31. JANUARY 2, 3, 4, 5
JOHANN STRAUSS JR. IL PIPISTRELLO
JANUARY 26, 28, 29, 30, 31
GEORGES BIZET
MANUEL DE FALLA
ISAAC ALBÉNIZ
MARIO CASTELNUOVO-TEDESCO
GABRIELE BONOLIS CARMEN
MARCH 2, 4, 5 TRITTICO CONTEMPORANEO
APRIL 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9
PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKI ONEGIN
MAY 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 DAWSON LIGHTFOOT-LEÓN EKMAN
OCTOBER 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31
DANIEL FRANÇOIS ESPRIT AUBER MARCO SPADA
CONCERTS
2024 NOVEMBER 7 ESA-PEKKA SALONEN PHILHARMONIA ORCHESTRA
2024 DECEMBER 8 MICHELE MARIOTTI
MARCH 22 MICHELE MARIOTTI
APRIL 28
IGNAZIO MARIA SCHIFANI ORCHESTRA
NAZIONALE BAROCCA DEI CONSERVATORI
MAY 10
JAMES CONLON
SEPTEMBER 26 DIEGO CERETTA
1
UNMISSABLE CONCERTS
September and October
On 11 October, Auditorium
Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone presents British singer-songwriter Robert Plant, who will take the audience on a thrilling journey through folk, blues and spiritual music. From 27 September to 3 October, the British artist David Gilmour comes to the Circus Maximus for six eagerly-awaited concerts, his only dates in continental Europe.
2 DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
SHOWS YOU HAVE TO SEE October and November
ROMA EUROPA FESTIVAL
Until 17 November
The 39th edition of the festival of dance,
2 music and theatre returns to twenty venues in the capital. From the Auditorium Parco della Musica to the Argentina, India and Vascello theatres, from MAXXI to Teatro dell’Opera, some 100 music, dance, theatre and digital arts events and 700 artists from all over the world. This year’s edition is entitled Spazio Aperto, and is directed by Fabrizio Grifasi. 3
From 9 to 19 October, Benjamin Briten’s masterpiece Peter Grimes is onstage at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, directed by Deborah Warner in a version with deep psychological currents; the conductor is Michele Marioti. Meanwhile, from 25 October to 2 November, Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents the Uwe Scholz staging of The Red and the Black, inspired by the 1830 novel by Stendhal.
FORCES OF FASHION
26 October
Mattatoio
Vogue Italia announces the return of the global Vogue event that narrates the world of fashion in the voices of its leading lights. Masterclasses, panel discussions and conversations will explore this year’s theme, The Power of the Runway, the fashion show as a cultural element and a tool for interpreting reality. Entry is free.
SERIE A FOOTBALL MATCHES
Stadio Olimpico
Surrounded by the Foro Italico
sports complex, Stadio Olimpico is the city’s largest stadium and one of the largest in Europe. It’s home to the two Roman teams that play in Serie A, A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio. Important dates for your diary include Roma vs Inter on 20 October, Roma vs Torino on 31 October, Lazio vs Genoa on 27 October and Lazio vs Cagliari on 4 November.
ROME FILM FESTIVAL
16-27 October
Auditorium Parco della Musica
In 2024, Rome Film Festival, Alice nella cità and MIA - Mercato Internazionale Audiovisivo - once again happen very close to each other. The competing movies are judged by a panel of professionals from the world of film, culture and the arts. A superb programme and something for everyone.
OPEN EVERYDAY 10AM-8PM
Hello to Extraordinary Shopping Experience in Rome
Over 150 Designer Brands - 10 Cafés and Restaurants - Tax Refund and Currency Exchange - Personal Shopping service - Bag drop off - Private Transfers - Meditation Room - Free Wifi - Tailor Service - Kids Play area.
Castel Romano Designer Outlet
Designer Brands
Discover the new arrivals for the Autumn Winter season in your favourite designer brands. Create your perfect style and discover amazing outfits, fabulous bags and accessories. We are the perfect destination for your stylish day out.
Shuttle Bus Service
Reach us with the Shuttle Bus Service available from Rome Termini Train Station and from EUR Fermi Underground Station.
Getting Here
Just 30 minutes from Rome's hystoric city centre, you'll find Castel Romano Designer Outlet. Visit our website to plan your journey.
Merging artisanal tradition with timeless elegance, Murano Più has been a distinguished family enterprise specializing in the creation and distribution of Murano glass since 1958. Our extensive range encompasses everything from exquisite small souvenirs to grand chandeliers, showcasing a diverse selection of glassware, mirrors, vases, sculptures, jewelry, and fine furnishings.
ART APPOINTMENTS
1 2
MIRÓ - THE DREAM BUILDER
Until 23 February 2025
Museo Storico della Fanteria
A journey into the creative world of one of the 20th century’s greatest artists. Organised in the style of an anthology, the show devotes one section to Miró’s collaboration with the famous magazine Derrière le Miroir. Alongside this section are paintings, drawings, ceramics, books and photographs documenting the whole of his artistic career.
AESTHETICS OF DEFORMATION. PROTAGONISTS OF ITALIAN EXPRESSIONISM
Until 2 February 2025
Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale
Conceived as part of the Gallery’s centenary celebrations, the exhibition presents a selection of some 130 works from the Giuseppe Iannaccone collection in Milan relating to Expressionism as an artistic movement in Italy between the 1930s and 50s, from the Scuola Romana to the Corrente group.
BOTERO
Until 19 January 2025
Palazzo Bonaparte
The Columbian painter, sculptor and illustrator, who died recently, is famous for his unique, distinctive style, bright colours and sumptuously rounded figures, whose reality is steeped in an ambiguous patina of Latin-American hyperrealism. The retrospective includes medium and large-scale works in the form of oils, watercolours and sculptures.
TITIAN, BELLINI, BRONZINO. MASTERPIECES FROM THE BORGHESE GALLERY TO PALAZZO BARBERINI
Until 27 October
Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica, Palazzo Barberini
Fify of the most extraordinary paintings from the Pinacoteca at Galleria Borghese. The exhibition is an opportunity to witness the dialogue between two collections that share a similar history, linked to two key figures of the 15th century, Maffeo Barberini and Scipione Borghese.
ANTONIO LIGABUE - I MISTERI DI UNA MENTE
28 September - 12 January 2025 Museo Storico della Fanteria
An exhibition dedicated to one of the most brilliant and enigmatic Italian artists of the 20th century, an interpreter of the most profound complexities of the mind. The exhibition winds through five areas and features 64 works, including sculptures, oil paintings, drawings and drypoint prints, tracing the life and artistic development of Antonio Ligabue and his works.
FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE
THEATER. AUTHORS, ACTORS AND PUBLIC OF ANCIENT ROME
Until 3 November
Ara Pacis Museum
The theatrical performances, the actors and all aspects of the “ludi” (games) in Ancient Rome recounted in the exhibition hosted at the Ara Pacis Museum give us a remarkable cross section of life in the ancient past. The exhibition features more than 240 works from 25 different lenders with an exhibition itinerary full of authentic rarities such as the Atic cup from the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Florence.
LOUIS VUITTON
Via dei Condotti, 13
Roma
Roma
INSTEAD OF THE USUAL BLACK…
Animal prints, but also Logo Patern and shades of green: there’s a new challenger to black
Piazza di Spagna, 94-100
Roma
BY Francesca Lombardi
Via dei Condotti, 77
Roma
FENDI
Largo Carlo Goldoni, 420 Roma
DIOR
Via dei Condotti, 1-4
DOLCE&GABBANA
GIORGIO ARMANI
GUCCI
Via dei Condotti, 8 Roma
RISTORANTE TULLIO
Locale Storico di Roma fondato nel 1950 e gestito tuttora dalla famiglia da ben 3 generazioni
ERMANNO
Piazza di Spagna, 34
Roma
IN PRAISE OF WHITE
CHANEL
Sof, luminous, elegant: for the return to work, choose the purest shades
PRADA
Via dei Condotti, 92
Roma
Piazza di Spagna, 85
Roma
Largo Carlo Goldoni, 420 Roma
Via dei Condotti, 17
Roma
MAX MARA
FENDI
+39 06 68803140
Aperto dal lunedi al sabato a cena Chiuso domenica tutto il giorno
VICOLO DELLA CANCELLERIA, 36 00186 ROMA
Via dei Condotti, 88-90
Roma
U.S. POLO ASSN. uspoloassn.it
SPORTY CHIC
For him, autumn is split between effort and lightheartedness, with casual garments and exquisite details
Piazza di Spagna, 94-100
Roma
Roma
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Via dei Condotti, 58
EMPORIO ARMANI
Via del Babuino, 140 Romar
ROMAN SHOPPING
The markets you shouldn’t miss in Rome, for great food products vintage clothes, antiques and curiosities
TEXT Virginia Mammoli PHOTO Valentina Stefanelli
Covered or outdoor, large or small, held daily or weekly, there are hundreds of markets in Rome. Every neighbourhood has its own, from Trastevere to Campo de’ Fiori, Trionfale to Pigneto, all the way to Testaccio and Monteverde. And every one of them is bursting with stories, people, colour and fresh produce. They’re noisy and chaotic but - excuse the repetition - authentically authentic. A visit to a market is the perfect opportunity not only to shop for everything from food to antiques, but also to experience real Roman life. Let’s explore the essential local markets, living examples of Rome’s popular spirit.
CAMPO DE’ FIORI
One of the city’s oldest markets. In fact, ever since 1869 the beautiful square commissioned by Pope Callixtus III in the mid-15th century has been enlivened by stalls
offering food items - fruit and vegetables, but also meat and fish - and, of course, flowers. This is the seting for the love story between fishmonger Peppino (Aldo Fabrizi) and fruit seller Elide (Anna Magnani) in the 1943 film written by Mario Bonnard, Federico Fellini, Tullio Pinelli and Fabrizi himself, and aptly entitled Campo de’ fiori. Open Monday to Saturday from 7.00 to 14.00.
PORTA PORTESE
From the oldest to perhaps the most famous of Rome’s markets. Such is its vibrancy and charm that it’s been the subject of songs, poems and even iconic movies including Vitorio De Sica’s Bicycle Thieves and Shoeshine or Pier Paolo Pasolini’s Mamma Roma. The labyrinth of stalls extends from Porta Portese to Viale Trastevere. However, this market’s not about food, but rather vintage and new clothing, furniture, vinyl, antiques, household linen, bags and
accessories, jewellery and watches, books, photos, toys and hidden treasures: a real flea market, in fact. One tip: the real bargains are found early in the morning. Open Sundays from 7.00 to 14.00.
TRIONFALE MARKET
We now come to the largest market in Rome, not to mention one of the largest in Italy and even Europe. The 250-plus stalls are housed in a covered structure, accessed from Via Andrea Doria, a short distance from the Vatican Museums. The market is divided into aisles, with stalls of different colours depending on the products for sale: green for fruit and veg, blue for fish, red for meat. The staircases beside the main entrance feature two murals of the actress Anna Magnani, by the street artist Diavù.
Open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday from 7.00 to 14.00, Tuesday and Friday 7.00 to 19.00.
PortaPortese, the most famous of Rome’s markets
Porta Portese, this market’s not about food, but rather vintage and new clothing, furniture, vinyl, antiques, household linen, bags and accessories, jewellery and watches, books, photos, toys and hidden treasures
The Via Sannio market offers an irresistible seriesofstallswhereyoucanrummagefor clothes,shoes,hats,bags,beltsandfabrics, aswellasplentyofmiscellaneousitems
TESTACCIO MARKET
Located in Via Aldo Manuzio, in the heart of one of Rome’s most authentic neighbourhoods, a few years ago the covered market moved to a new modern and light-filled building with views over the ruins of Ancient Rome. Packed with foodie stalls offering treats to go - delicious pannini, pizza and traditional fried appetisers - it has become a favourite destination for lovers of street food, to take away or enjoy at the market’s tables.
Open Monday to Saturday from 7.00 to 15.30.
ESQUILINO MARKET
It began in the picturesque seting of Piazza Vitorio
and now has a new home in the former Sani barracks at Via Principe Amedeo 184,
AN AUTHENTIC MIX OF COLOURS, SOUNDS AND CULTURES WHERE YOU CAN EXPERIENCE THE ATMOSPHERE OF ROME’S BYGONE DAYS
just behind Termini train station. Esquilino market serves Rome’s internation-
al community. Alongside typical Roman and Italian produce, it offers a colourful and aromatic journey among produce, spices and specialities from all over the world, Asia to Africa.
Open Monday to Saturday from 5.00 to 15.00.
VIA SANNIO MARKET
Just outside the San Giovanni metro station and behind the church and square of the same name, the Via Sannio market offers an irresistible series of stalls where you can rummage for clothes, shoes, hats, bags, belts and fabrics, as well as plenty of miscellaneous items.
Open Monday to Saturday from 8.00 to 14.00.
Mercato dei Fiori
BORGHETTO FLAMINIO
Still on the vintage theme, the market at Borghetto Flaminio is almost exclusively devoted to second-hand clothing and accessories, furs and hardto-find antiques and artworks.
From a Hermès scarf to a signed photo of Gabriele d’Annunzio, drawings by Toulouse Lautrec and Renoir, and Gio Ponti vases. Located a stone’s throw from Piazza del Popolo, at the start of Via Flaminia, the Borgheto is a great place for a Sunday stroll, even if you’re just looking. Open Sundays from 10.00 to 19.00.
MERCATO DEI FIORI
Paradise for flower lovers. Originally in Via Trionfale,
EVERY NEIGHBOURHOOD HAS ITS OWN, FROM TRASTEVERE TO CAMPO DE’ FIORI, TRIONFALE TO TESTACCIO...
the market is now in temporary premises at Viale Palmiro Togliati 1280 and is
home to flowers and plants of some 150 producers from all over Lazio (Santa Marinella, Nemi, Genzano, Latina and Fondi) and other regions of Italy.
Open Saturdays from 7.00 to 11.00.
NOMENTANO LOCAL MARKET
A small gem, these days in Piazza Alessandria in an elegant 1920s building designed by Italy’s first female architect, Elena Luzzatto, and featuring magnificent vertical windows in wrought iron.
Fantastic local produce and street food.
Open Monday to Saturday from 7.00 to 15.00.
Testaccio Market has become a favourite destination for lovers of street food
The masterpieces of the Borghese Gallery find a new home
TEXT Francesca Lombardi
The exhibition
Tiziano, Bellini, Bronzino. Capolavori dalla Galleria Borghese a Palazzo Barberini, arranged in the south wing of the main floor of Palazzo Barberini and already extended once, will continue until 27 October. It will also present eight new artworks, including some pieces rarely seen at public exhibitions as they come from the Storage Chambers of the Borghese Gallery. On display next to the many masterpieces of the exhibition, these pieces include among others Country Dance by Guido Reni, Venus and Adonis by Scarsellino, the Fall of Lucifer by Jacopo Palma il Giovane and the Holy Family by Scipione Pulzone.
Let us take a step back: last year on 29 March, fify artworks of the Borghese Gallery were moved to the south wing of Palazzo Barberini’s main floor.
This unprecedented collaboration between the National Galleries of Ancient Art and the Borghese Gallery will enable the public to continue to enjoy the artis-
EIGHT NEW ARTWORKS, SOME PIECES RARELY SEEN AT PUBLIC EXHIBITIONS AS THEY COME FROM THE STORAGE CHAMBERS OF THE BORGHESE
GALLERY
tic heritage preserved on the first floor of the Borghese Gallery, even during the massive renovation and protection project, which has been made possible by the
PNRR funding. This project is a unique and fantastic opportunity to create a link between two collections that share a similar history, connected to two very important personalities of the political and cultural Roman scene of the 17th century: Maffeo Barberini and Scipione Borghese. A connection which is not only historical and cultural, but also geographical.
Absolute masterpieces such as the Portrait of a Man by Antonello da Messina, the Madonna and Child by Giovanni Bellini, the Virgin and Child with Two Angels and the Young St John the Baptist by Sandro Boticelli, the Portrait of Young Woman with Unicorn by Raphael, Susanna and the Elders by Peter Paul Rubens, Sacred and Profane Love by Titian, St John the Baptist Preaching by Paolo Veronese are only a few of the paintings that will continue to be accessible to the public.
“This event has the highest institutional value and is evidence of the connection, not only geographical but also professional, which binds together the two museums”, said Thomas Clement Salomon, director of the National Galleries of Ancient Art. “Following in the steps of Scipione Borghese and Maffeo Barberini, who today would have welcomed enthusiastically this project, we hope that the public will be able to admire the masterpieces of the Borghese gallery at Palazzo Barberini and celebrate this exhibition which will unlikely be repeated in the coming decades.”
Afer the restoration of the
façades of the Borghese Gallery, the funds of the PNRR
THE EXHIBITION ARRANGED IN PALAZZO BARBERINI AND ALREADY EXTENDED ONCE, WILL CONTINUE UNTIL
27 OCTOBER
will be used to replace the old upholstery and install mod-
ern fixtures with the aim to improve energy efficiency, make culture accessible, update the storage chambers and restore some large canvases. The project will be presented in its entirety as a prologue to the exhibition in Palazzo Barberini. The temporary disarrangement of the rooms in the south wing of Palazzo Barberini will provide an occasion for an indepth photographic report and preventive conservation of the artworks normally exhibited in these rooms: from 17th-century Neapolitan painting to the 18th-century collection, from Matia Preti to the painters of the Grand Tour.
Autumn in the Lazio hills. A gem of a winery, a maze of vineyards and sophisticated food-wine pairings
TEXT Teresa Favi
Perhaps no season is beter than another to visit the Lazio region, but autumn, with its colors, is one of the most exciting and enjoyable times of the year for wine tourists and wine lovers, when the hills become a mosaic of contrasting landscapes, with orderly rows of vines alternating with elegant historic villas, medieval castles, abbeys and modern wineries, bordered with woods and natural reserves. This is the cradle of Roman civilization, a land that played a crucial role in the development and spreading of the culture of wine over the centuries. Winegrowing and some grape varieties native to Lazio date back, in many cases, to the Etruscan age. The main production areas are four: Vulsinia, Castelli Romani, Ciociaria and Agro Pontino.
WINE TOURS &TASTINGS
Most of the wineries offer guided visits and tastings of their wines. They are very
different from each other: some are small-sized and family-run, others are big and internationally renowned, becoming veritable works of
WINEGROWING
AND SOME GRAPE VARIETIES NATIVE TO LAZIO DATE BACK.
THE MAIN PRODUCTION
AREAS ARE FOUR: VULSINIA, CASTELLI ROMANI, CIOCIARIA AND AGRO PONTINO
architecture and winemaking in the hills. Being able to personally visit the wineries, talk with the producers and walk through the vineyards is
always an exciting experience. Even more when the autumn colors are most vibrant. Here is our selection.
OMINA ROMANA
Set in the Castelli Romani hills, in the picturesque Velletri area, about 40 kilometers to the south of Rome, is the winery of Anton F. Börner, a German entrepreneur passionate about wine and archeology, who started it in 2007. Today it is run by his daughter Katharina. Low grape yield, the strictly manual selection of grapes and the pursuit of the perfect ripening time are the preconditions for reducing the winemaking stages to a minimum, according to methods light-years away from the concept of standard production. One of Omina Romana’s key features is the choice of carrying out long ageing on fine lees (sur lies) to give the wines aromas and complexity. Particularly interesting are the Ars Magna wines, the winery’s signature line made with grapes from the most
AND ENJOYABLE TIMES OF THE YEAR AUTUMN IS ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING
FOR WINE TOURISTS AND WINE LOVERS
suited vineyards. Aligned with these principles are also the tours and wine tastings, personalized to the customer’s preferences and strictly by reservation. Generally speaking, groups consist of at least 4 people, and the basic visit includes a tour of the vineyards and the winery and a tasting of 4 to 5 wines. The languages available are English, German and Italian, and a transfer service ( for a fee and by reservation) to reach the winery from the Campoleone train station and back is alsoavailable. For information: info@ominaromana.com.
MARCO CARPINETI
Starting from April 2024, Lazio’s first organic winery,
based in Cori, on the slopes of the Lepini Mountains, just 56 kilometers to the south of
A LOT OF WINERIES, IN THE SURROUNDINGS OF ROME, OFFER GUIDED VISITS AND TASTINGS OF THEIR WINES
Rome, has become world-famous for its maze-shaped vineyard that offers a breath-
taking view of the hills in the towns of Bassiano, Sezze and Sermoneta. Actually, in addition to its artistic value, the Labirinto di Vigna, is also a farming experiment, designed to facilitate grape ripening and vineyard management. This unique maze environment, with its waves and shade, is suited to the different seasons, offering a spectacular fast-changing view. All the more reason to plan a wine tour here, considering that the winery is very well-organized for this kind of experiences, which range from guided tours of the winery in the various estates with tasting of the Classic Line wines to the vineyard tour on electric
TheCasaledelGigliowinecellar
THIS IS THE CRADLE OF ROMAN
CIVILIZATION,
A LAND THAT PLAYED A CRUCIAL
ROLE
IN THE DEVELOPMENT AND SPREADING OF THE CULTURE OF WINE OVER THE CENTURIES
bicycles with pedal assistance, from horseback riding to pottery making workshops, to a 2-kilometer Zipline flight over the vineyards at an altitude of 110 meters. All the experiences are crowned with a tour of the winery and wine tasting of 3 labels accompanied by a light lunch.
What is more, the annual MostoFiore event, with which harvesting is celebrated in the village of Cori, this year on Sunday, October 5. For information:
info@marcocarpineti.com
CASALE DEL GIGLIO
We are in the Agro Pontino area, near Latina, where the Santarelli family, in over a century, has writen a signif-
icant page of Central Italy’s winegrowing history. An adventure which began in 1914 with Berardino Santarelli, who was born in Capricchia, near Amatrice.
The winery’s more recent history began in 1985 with Antonio Santarelli, aided by winemaker Paolo Tiefenthaler in carrying out a major activity of research and experimentation with native and international grape varieties, which have transformed this strip of the Lazio countryside into an open-air workshop. Among the winery’s greatest recognitions are the 92 points by James Suckling for Mater Matuta 2018 (85% Syrah and 15% Petit Verdot ), the Gam-
bero Rosso’s quality-price award for Satrico 2022 (40% Sauvignon, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Trebbiano) and ranking fourth on the Gentleman’s list of Italy’s Top 50 White Wines for Radix 2019 (100% Bellone). The one-hour-and-ahalf guided visit includes the tour of the estate and winery with wine tasting of five labels paired with three local products.
But the tour can be upgraded (with an extra charge) to include two of the winery’s Reserve wines and a rich buffet meal, crowned with a tasting of grappas made from the winery’s pomace and local handmade chocolates, visite@casaledelgiglio.it
EAT LIKE A ROMAN
Expert advice from the concierge
TEXT Martina Olivieri
The concierge is the real expert when you want to find out about the culinary secrets of Rome. Known for their atentiveness and passion, these professionals are ready to advise you on the tratorias which serve authentic Roman cuisine. From typical dishes such as ‘cacio e pepe’ to other lesser known regional specialities, these tratorias offer a culinary experience which is not just a simple meal. Here every bite is a tribute to traditional Italian food, and the welcoming and warm atmosphere makes every visit truly special. Get ready to enjoy the real taste of Rome with us.
THE CITY’S BEST TRADITIONAL TAVERNS RECOMMENDED BY CONCIERGES. PLACES OF LOVE AND MEETING, OF FRIENDSHIP AND DEAFENING CHATTER
TO REMEMBER
LILLI TRATTORIA
Tratoria Lilli was established in 1969, away from the usual tourist places in the historic centre. It is one of the few authentic traditional tratorias lef in the city: genuine, direct and down to earth. The ideal place to savour traditional dishes, chat, enjoy the house wine and relax. A tip? Make sure you order the pasta alla gricia, and the one with chickpeas and clams… they are delicious! (via Tor di Nona, 23
TRATTORIA DA TEO
It is one of the most popular restaurants in Trastevere, thanks to its expertise to combine tradition with innovation. Among the dishes not to be missed, there is of course the amatriciana, but also the fish dishes are a must. The service in the dining room makes it even more pleasant with the typical friendliness of Trastevere, while the prices are genuine and affordable. (Piazza dei Ponziani, 7A)
Alexandra Sardo HEAD CONCIERGE HOTEL DE LA VILLE
Alexandra Sardo HEAD CONCIERGE HOTEL DE LA VILLE
TRATTORIA DA ENZO AL 29
A historic establishment, small but full of character, which fully encapsulates the essence of the spirit of Rome. The menu is not vast but every dish is a delight, made with their own local ingredients. The dishes served are all traditional Roman foods, which guarantee an authentic tasty experience. Important note: the establishment does not accept reservations. (Via dei Vascellari, 29)
FAMILIAR PLACES
TRATTORIA DA DANILO
Tratoria Da Danilo is exactly what you would imagine a typical Roman tratoria to be. The atmosphere is lively, vibrant, and refreshingly down-toearth, with plenty of locals filling the tables. Tucked away from the usual tourist paths, it is renowned for serving the best cacio e pepe in the city. The warm and welcoming staff, exceptional food, and authentic ambiance all come together to capture the unique essence and spirit of Rome. (Via Petrarca, 13)
Ana De Castro CONCIERGE HOTEL EDEN
Ana De Castro CONCIERGE HOTEL EDEN
Cristian Galotti HEAD CONCIERGE INTERCONTINENTAL ROME AMBASCIATORI PALACE
OSTERIA DE MEMMO
Just steps away from Piazza Navona in one of the most picturesque corners of Ancient Rome, Osteria De Memmo has been welcoming its guests for over 50 years, serving traditional dishes made with fresh and seasonal ingredients. Among its specialities, Amatriciana is the most popular one, made with high-quality ingredients, which represents the best of Roman cuisine. A place where history and good food are combined to offer an unforgetable culinary experience. (Vicolo dei Soldati, 22)
Cristian Galotti H EAD CONCIERGE INTERCONTINENTAL
ROME AMBASCIATORI PALACE
PEPPONE
AUTHENTIC FLAVORS
It was 1890 when Giuseppe Tozzi, known as Peppone, came to Rome from Abruzzo to open a tavern. Since then, the business has gradually grown over the years to the restaurant it is now, run by the great grandchildren who represent the fourth generation of the family. Even if it has been more than 100 years, the restaurant still remains true to its roots, offering dishes with traditional flavours re-invented with a modern touch. Among the specialities not to be missed are the Roman artichokes, the cacio e pepe and the delicious artichoke soufflé. (Via Emilia, 60)
LE MANI IN PASTA
Set in the picturesque area of Trastevere, Mani in Pasta offers tourists an authentic Roman culinary experience, away from the typical tourist places. Here you can savour traditional dishes such as the carbonara and the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, made with care and passion. The authentic and welcoming ambiance combined with friendly service makes this restaurant the ideal choice for those who want to experience Rome like a local. Ideal for exploring one of the city’s most stunning areas, Mani in Pasta is synonymous with authentic flavours and Rome’s traditions. (Via dei Genovesi, 37)
Francesca Romana Nanni CONCIERGE HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA
DALÙ
The daLù restaurant is located in the heart of Trastevere, renowned for its iconic traditional dishes such as the carbonara, cacio e pepe and Roman-style cod, which represent the best Roman traditional cuisine. A vast menu with also dishes such as home-made ravioli and seared tuna, made with fresh and seasonal ingredients. Mediterranean cuisine is harmoniously combined with a modern touch, offering an experience of authentic flavours in a relaxed and elegant ambiance. (Via della Gensola, 58A)
Francesca Romana Nanni CONCIERGE HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA
MONTECARLO
A historic Roman tratoria where you can savour generous portions of pasta, prepared according to the recipes of the past. Among the specialities, there are the famous peaches in white wine and Roman-style pizza, ‘perfectly’ baked as Carlo likes to say, the owner and custodian of this symbol of Rome for 40 years. An authentic experience that keeps the Roman culinary tradition alive with passion and dedication. (Vicolo Savelli, 13)
L’ISOLA DELLA PIZZA
A restaurant located in the Prati area, renowned for its use of high quality ingredients and friendly staff. The family-run owners, originally from Amatrice, choose only the freshest and most authentic ingredients, keeping the traditions alive. The guanciale is used in various recipes strictly from Amatrice. The pizza is made with a thin layer of dough, typical Roman-style, which is another highlight of the menu. It offers great value for money, guaranteeing an authentic and affordable culinary experience. (Via degli Scipioni, 45)
Museums, churches and all the atractions that you should not miss in city. Reservations are recommended in some museums, ask your ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge
MUSEUMS AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
COLOSSEUM
Designed to hold 50,00075,000 spectators coming to see the fights between gladiators and ferocious animals, the Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre from Antiquity, a symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world.
A water system fed various fountains and allowed for naumachiae, mock naval batles. Piazza del Colosseo, 1 ph. +39 06 39967700 parcocolosseo.it
Closed: January 1, December 25
FOR0 AND PALATINO
The Arch of Constantine links the Palatine Hill, adding to the houses of Livia and Augustus, and the Forums built along the Via Sacra and beyond the Arch of
Titus, up towards the Capotiline Hill and the Sacred Largo Argentina area, that is reopened and equipped for disabled people.
At the same time, the emperors paid homage to themselves by building their own squares, known as Fori.
Fori Imperiali | Foro Romano | Palatino: ticket office Piazza della Madonna di Loreto and Via della Salara Vecchia ph. +39 06 39967700 coopculture.it
Closed: January 1, December 25
THE BATHS OF CARACALLA
Inaugurated by Caracalla in 216 CE, they extended for 10 hectares, vaunted a sophisticated water system for its tepidarium, calidarium, frigidarium and two gymnasiums, and included a Mithraeum, the god venerated by young soldiers.
Priceless materials stripped from the structure were recycled to build Santa Maria in Trastevere.
Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 52 ph. +39 06 39967702 coopculture.it
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
CATACOMBS
These underground cemeteries carved into tuff rock were decorated with Christian symbols and located, for reasons of hygiene, outside the city walls. Beginning in the 2nd century, martyrs, Christians and Jews were all buried in them. The most evocative, near the Appian Way, are the catacombs of Domitilla, Lucilla, Callixtus, St. Sebastian and the Ardeatine.
CIRCO MASSIMO
A portion of the area gives us an idea of the original purpose of this stadium, 120 metres wide and 620 metres long, likely the largest structure ever built to stage spectacles and able to seat 250,000 people. It was used for horse races and a market. This is also where the Rape of the Sabine Women occurred. Today, it is a popular place for hosting large events.
Via del Circo Massimo ph. +39 06 0608 sovraintendenzaroma.it
Closed: January 1, May 1 (variable), December 25
Immaginate una casa elegante e un po’ fuori dal tempo.
La luce è accorta, i colori dosati dal tempo e dagli incontri. Libri, tanti. Qua e là indizi di bellezza e di arte contemporanea. Nell’aria un profumo di timo e di pane. -
Try to imagine an elegant and timeless building, where the light is delicate, and the colours have been mixed by encounters and the passage of time.
You’ll fnd items of beauty and modern art dotted around here and there, and books aplenty. Te aroma of bread and thyme hang in the air.
The mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian, it later became Castel Sant’Angelo. Thanks to its secret passage connecting it to the Vatican, it was transformed into a fortress and refuge for popes. It was later a prison, barracks and museum. Inside, there are frescoes by Pinturicchio, while the bronze angel was made by Peter Anton von Verschaffelt in 1753. Lungotevere Castello, 50 ph. +39 06 6819111 castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
VATICAN MUSEUMS AND SISTINE CHAPEL
This collection of buildings houses one of the most impressive and visited art museums in the world.
Another highlight, in addition to the Gallery of Geographical Maps, is the Pinacoteca, which conserves artworks, including pieces by Leonardo, Gioto, Titian, Reni, Caravaggio and Raphael. The later’s
masterpiece, however, can be found in Julius II’s apartments, today known as the Raphael Rooms. Near there is the Pauline Chapel, which conserves frescoes by Michelangelo, and the Sistine Chapel. The walls were frescoed by Boticelli, Perugino and Signorelli, while the ceiling is Michelangelo’s triumphant. On the wall behind the altar, Last Judgement. Viale Vaticano ph. +39 06 69884676 museivaticani.va
Closed: Sunday (except for the last of the month), January 1, February 11, March 19, April 22, May 1, June 29, August 14 and 15, November 1, December 25 and 26
GALLERIA
BORGHESE
The gallery, adjacent to the villa that dominates the Pincian Hill, is considered the most important museum in the world for its collection of artworks by Bernini and Caravaggio, including the former’s Apollo and Daphne, the later’s Young Sick Bacchus and The Deposition by Raphael. Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 ph. + 39 06 8413979 galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it Closed: January 1, December 25
MUSEI CAPITOLINI
Housed inside Palazzo dei Conservatori and Palazzo Nuovo, in the piazza redesigned by Michelangelo, the museums conserve artworks like the Capitoline Wolf, the original statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Dying Gaul, Bernini’s Medusa and The Fortune Teller by Caravaggio. A section of the museum is now in the Centrale Montemartini.
Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 ph. +39 06 0608 museicapitolini.org
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
GNAM – GALLERIA
NAZIONALE DI ARTE MODERNA
Designed by architect, Cesare Bazzani, the National Gallery houses Italian masterpieces
from the 19th and 20th centuries. Divided into two sections, the exhibition space was built for the International Exhibition and showcases works by the Macchiaioli, Futurists (Boccioni and Balla), Chini, Modigliani, Gutuso and De Chirico, as well as Klimt, Monet, Cézanne, Mondrian, Kandinsky.
Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 ph. +39 06 32298221 lagallerianazionale.com
Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25
IL VITTORIANO
Named the Vitorio Emanuele II Monument at its inauguration, it is also known as the Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland) and was built to commemorate Italian liberation. Built like a modern Roman Forum, it houses the Museum of the Risorgimento and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Today, it houses temporary exhibitions and features a large terrace with a view of the city.
Il Vitoriano: Via di San Pietro in Carcere ph. +39 06 8715111 ilvitoriano.com
Museo centrale del Risorgimento al Vitoriano: Closed Easter, week of August 15, December 25 ; Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site
Incastonato fra le piazze più belle ed i vicoli più affascinanti di Roma, Il Falcheto propone una cucina curata, atenta alle materie prime. Nato alla fine dell’800 come distilleria, Il Falcheto è uno dei più antichi ristoranti di Roma e vanta il primato di “Antica Botega Storica”, onoreficenza riconosciutagli dal Comune di Roma per i suoi 100 anni di atività. Via dei Montecatini, 12 - 00186
PALAZZO BARBERINI AND GALLERIA CORSINI
The galleries housed here showcase artworks including gems like Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Woman and Holbein’s Portrait of Henry VIII, as well as pieces by Van Dyck, Tintoreto and Titian. Built by Maderno for Pope Urban VIII, features a salone with Barberini Power by Pietro da Cortona. Palazzo Barberini:
Via delle Quatro Fontane, 13 ph. +39 06 4814591
Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25
Galleria Corsini:
Via della Lungara, 10 ph. +39 06 68802323
Closed: Tuesday , January 1, December 25
barberinicorsini.org
SCUDERIE
DEL QUIRINALE
Up until 1938 it was used as a stables and carriage house, afer which it housed the Carriage Museum. Built on top of the ruins of the Roman temple of Serapis, the
building boasts a view from the highest point of Rome’s historic hills.
The Scuderie was restored by the international architect Gae Aulenti for the Jubilee in 2000 and is today one of the main sites for large exhibitions.
Via XXIV Maggio, 16 scuderiequirinale.it
Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site.
GALLERIA
DORIA PAMPHILJ
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is the biggest palace that still serves as a residence and is home to important private art collections. The gallery features works by Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio, Parmigianino, Lorrain, Sebastiano del Piombo, Bronzino and Bernini, as well as Vélazquez’s most famous
portrait. The palace apartments and private chapel can be accessed via the gallery. Via del Corso, 305 ph. +39 06 6797323
doriapamphilj.it
Closed: third Wednesday of the month, January 1, Easter, December 25
MAXXI
The museum features art from the 21st century and was built on the site of an old army barracks, the Caserma Montello, near the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano.
The interior space is dedicated to international avant-garde movements and the first gallery of Contemporary Architecture.
EXECUTIVE CHEF
DAVIDE CIANETTI
Via Sicilia, 47 - 00187 Romatel. +39 065575012 damareroma.it Dal Lunedì al Venerdì 12:30 - 15:00 / 18:45 - 00:30 Sabato 18:30 - 01:00 Domenica Chiuso
Works on display include pieces by Boeti, De Dominicis, Kapoor, Richter and Catelan.
Via Guido Reni, 4A ph. +39 06 3201954 maxxi.art
Closed: Monday, May 1, December 25
MUSEO
DELL’ARA PACIS
Intended to celebrate peace in Spain and Gaul, the Ara Pacis was consecrated in 9
BCE between via Flaminia and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Decorated with the achievements of Emperor Augustus and portraits of the Giulio-Claudia gens, it has been enclosed in a protective building made of steel and marble designed by Meier since 2006.
Lungotevere in Augusta (corner via Tomacelli) ph. +39 06 0608 arapacis.it
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
QUIRINALE
The hill, also called Cavallo (horse) because of the statues of the Dioscuri found in the square, has always been the home of powerful people. First
the popes from Gregory III to Pius IX, and then Napoleon. It was also the king’s home and finally the residence of the President of the Republic. The majestic walls of the palace preserve beautiful tapestries, antique clocks and porcelain, as well as the beautiful elliptical by Mascarino and the staircase of Honour.
Piazza del Quirinale ph. +39 06 3996 7557 palazzo.quirinale.it
FORUM STUDIOS
Founded in 1970 by Ennio Morricone, Forum Studios in Rome represent a landmark in music and cinema history. For the first time ever, the historic Studios will open their doors to guests with a number of customisable exclusive visits and experiences inside the most famous Italian recording studios in the world.
A cross between Baroque and Neoclassicism, the largest fountain in Rome reflects the story of the Augustus-era Aqua Virgo.
It was rebuilt multiple times in Antiquity and enlarged by Bernini but finished only in the late 18th century. Traditional says that if visitors to throw a coin into the fountain, they will return to the city one day.
Piazza di Trevi
SCALINATA
TRINITÀ DEI MONTI
Imposing and scenic, its shape narrowing and widening as it climbs, it connects the Church of Trinità dei Monti to piazza di Spagna. Afer centuries of development, the stairway was built in 1726 based on a design by the architect Francesco De Sanctis.
Its beauty is exalted in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom.
Piazza di Spagna
COLONNA TRAIANA
Ancient Roman at its finest, it is the first coclide column, erected in 113 to celebrate the victory over Dacia (today Romania), with scenes from the war depicted across a spiral, chronological frieze. Forty metres tall, it con-
serves the ashes of Trajan and is located in what was Trajan’s Forum. Sixtus V replaced the statue at the top with one of St. Peter.
Via dei Fori Imperiali
TEATRO MARCELLO
Begun by Caesar and located between the Tiber and the Capitoline Hill, it was completed and enlarged by Augustus. In the Middle Ages, it was used for houses and workshops. Restored in the 1920s, it is one of the few and
oldest theatres remaining, and over the centuries, it has been used as a model for theatres and amphitheatres.
Via del Teatro di Marcello
COLONNA
DI MARCO AURELIO
It’s located opposite Palazzo Chigi, in the exact spot where it was erected by Commodus in 190 to celebrate the victories of his father Marcus Aurelius over the Germanic people. Forty metres tall, the frieze winds for 110 metres and was inspired by Trajan’s Column. In 1589, Sixtus V replaced the Roman statue on top with an effigy of St. Paul.
Piazza Colonna
ARCO DI COSTANTINO
With its three arches, it is the largest triumphal arch in Rome and symbolically inaugurates via dei Fori. The Senate dedicated it to Emperor Constantine in 315. Recent studies have dated it to the era of Hadrian, however.
The decorations show a variety of styles, from classical to medieval: a veritable open-air “museum”.
Via di San Gregorio
PYRAMID
OF CAIUS CESTIUS
Gaius Cestius wrote in his will that the tomb must be built in only 330 days, lest his heirs be excluded from his rich patrimony.
Erected out in 18 BCE and 36 metres tall, it was covered in marble and inspired by the Pyramids of Giza.
Via Raffaele Persicheti
CHURCHES
BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VATICANO
St. Peter’s Basilica is the most fascinating place in the world. In addition to priceless relics and interesting tombs, there are many masterpieces inside St. Peter’s, including the Pietà, sculpted and signed by young Michelangelo, and the lavish canopy by Bernini. The bronze
statue of the saint is by Arnolfo di Cambio, while the towering round dome is by Michelangelo, who was inspired by Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.
Piazza San Pietro vatican.va
ARCIBASILICA
DI SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO
This is the city’s cathedral and the first of the four papal basilicas. Built by Constantine following the First Council of Nicaea in 325, this is where Pope Boniface VIII announced the first Jubilee in 1300. The Constantine-era mosaics, Cosmatesque floor and ciborium remain, while the incredible “rooms of light” by Borromini can still be seen today.
Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano, 4 vatican.va
BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA
This was the cemetery where St. Paul was buried. The church, built by Constantine, is one of the four papal basilicas, the second largest afer St. Peter’s and also called Ostiense.
Vaunting an imposing colonnade, it was destroyed by a fire and rebuilt as it was. The ciborium by Arnolfo di Cambio is priceless, while the mosaic portraits of all the popes is a rare masterpiece.
Piazzale San Paolo, 1 basilicasanpaolo.org
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE
The church, one of the four papal basilicas, maintains its original early-Christian structure and was built in the 4th century on the spot where snow is said to have fallen in the summer (commemorated every August 5). Inside also to the oldest Nativity, by Arnolfo di Cambio. Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42 vatican.va
PANTHEON
BASILICA DI SANTA
MARIA AD MARTYRES
Dedicated to all the gods by general Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, it was later rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian. It is
almost a perfect sphere, 43 metres in diameter and vaunting a concrete dome with an oculus.
In addition to Raphael, Annibale Carracci, Perin del Vaga, Margherita di Savoia and kings Umberto I and Vitorio Emanuele II are all buried here.
Piazza della Rotonda pantheonroma.com
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
BASILICA DEI SANTI
COSMA E DAMIANO
The basilica is of the first churches built atop ancient buildings, in this case the Forum of Vespasian and the Temple of Romulus, both still visible. The apse contains a 6th-century
mosaic depicting Saints Peter and Paul Presenting Cosmas, Damian, Theodorus, and Pope Felix IV to Christ. The 18th-century Nativity, which sets the scene in Rome, is worth a look. Via dei Fori Imperiali, 1 cosmadamiano.com
BASILICA
DI SAN CLEMENTE
One church atop another between Esquiline and Caelian hills: the first was transformed from an earlier mithraeum built on top of Roman houses. The second (4th century), conserves frescoes dedicated to St. Alexi-
us. In the upper basilica (12th century), frescoes by Masolino dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria.
Via Labicana, 95 basilicasanclemente.com
BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI
Nothing remains of the 5th century church, the Baths of Titus and the Neronian domus. Julius II is buried here, whose tomb was designed by Michelangelo and vaunts his
imposing Moses. According to tradition, the church conserves some of the chains that bound St. Peter in the nearby Mamertine Prison, the oldest in Rome.
Piazza di San Pietro in Vicoli
BASILICA DI SANTA
MARIA DEGLI ANGELI
E DEI MARTIRI
Built by Michelangelo, who recovered the building without destroying the Frigidarium from the Baths of Diocletian, this church is where official state ceremonies are held. It was completed by Giacomo del Duca and restored by Luigi Vanvitelli. Amongst the works of art conserved here, a modern Igor Mitoraj and a sundial
built for the Jubilee.
Piazza della Repubblica santamariadegliangeliroma.it Closed on Saturdays
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA DEL POPOLO
Built in 1099 with funds offered by the community (popolo in Italian, inspiring the church’s name), it was altered by Maderno, Raphael, Bramante and Bernini, and is decorated with masterpieces like the Crucifixion of St. Peter and the Conversion of St. Paul by Caravaggio in the transept. The Chigi Chapel is splendid, designed by Raphael and restored by Bernini.
Piazza del Popolo, 12 smariadelpopolo.com
BASILICA
DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE
It is the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is said that the church was built where oil miraculously erupted from the ground.
Rebuilt in the 12th century with materials taken from the Baths of Caracalla, it conserves a triumph of 13th-century mosaics, many of which are by Pietro Cavallini, as well as the historic
Since 1804 we have been telling the story
mercoledì - lunedì: 19.30 - 23.00
sabato e domenica: 12:00 - 15:00 / 19:30 - 23:00
martedì chiusi
Madonna Theotókos. Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere
CHIESA DEL GESÙ
It is perhaps the first church built during the Counter-Reformation and was a model for all those that came later.
Vaunting a single nave and a barrel vault, the church has a large side pulpit and a central altar. Desired by Ignatius of Loyola (with his breathtaking revolving altarpiece), it is also the mother church of the Society of Jesus. Via degli Astalli, 16 chiesadelgesu.org
CHIESA DI SAN LUIGI
DEI FRANCESI
The church was completed in 1587 thanks to Catherine de’ Medici. The French church in Rome is famous for its paintings by Caravaggio, in
the Contarelli Chapel, dedicated to St. Mathew with The Calling, The Inspiration and The Martyrdom. The church also conserves frescoes by Domenichino and a copy of Raphael’s Saint Cecilia by Guido Reni.
Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi saintlouis-rome.net
CHIESA DI SAN
PIETRO IN MONTORIO
It is famous for the Tempieto designed by Bramante. Legend
says that St. Peter was martyred here, and Beatrice Cenci has been buried here since her execution in 1599.
The Tempieto was commissioned by the Spanish king Ferdinand II of Aragon in the early 16th century to dissolve a vow. Today, the former convent houses the Royal Spanish Academy.
Piazza S. Pietro in Mortorio, 2 sanpietroinmontorio.it
CHIESA
DI SANT’AGNESE IN AGONE
Built atop the Stadium of Domitian, the church is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, replete with optical illusions.
Built according to a Greekcross plan, it was redesigned by Borromini, who created a concave façade and separated the two bell towers, making it appear as if it were larger. Today, it is also an elegant venue for sacred music concerts.
Piazza Navona corner Via S.Maria dell’ Anima, 30/A santagneseinagone.org
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE
Commissioned Sixtus IV following the Pazzi Conspiracy in the hope for a period of peace, the church was altered in the 17th century by Pietro da Cortona.
In the Chigi Chapel designed by Michelangelo, there are paintings by Raphael. The adjacent former convent conserves the Bramante cloister (an exhibition site today); the dome was added in 1524.
Arco della Pace, 5
CHIESA
DELLA SANTISSIMA TRINITÀ DEI MONTI
Overlooking the homonymous staircase by Domenico Fontana, the church vaunts a façade with two bell. Its style is between Baroque and Rococo. Inside frescoes by Daniela da Volterra, including a portrait of Michelangelo and Giovan Batista Naldini.
In front of the church stands an obelisk that was in the Gardens of Sallust.
Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 3
GARDENS AND PARKS
Villa Ada Savoia on via Salaria is one of the largest parks in Rome, while one of the most beautiful parks is the Villa Torlonia in Nomentano whith lakes and grotos, ex residence of Mussolini. Located in near the ancient Appian Way, the Aqueduct Park. The Rose Garden, at the base of the Palatine hill, is a must-see in the spring, while the Villa Borghese is a great classic.
PALACES
Many palaces are still inhabited by the same families who built them centuries ago, while others have become museums, embassies, government offices. But all of them are tied to the fortunes of popes who rebuilt the city beginning in the 15th century.
From the Visconti to the Orsini, the Corsini to the Colonna to the Borgia, Piccolomini, Della Rovere, Farnese, Medici, Carafa, Borghese, Barberini, Pamphilj, Chigi and Rospigliosi, each family lef an enduring mark on the city. There’s Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on the busy via del Corso, decorated in the Baroque style and vaunting loggias and courtyards elegantly frescoed. Palazzo Spada in piazza Capodiferro is
also impressive. Cardinal Bernardino commissioned its construction by Borromini, the man behind the famous Galleria Prospetica. Since 1927, the building has housed the Council of State. Palazzo Farnese is nearby, in the homonymous piazza decorated with two Egyptian, granite tubs from the Baths of Caracalla. The palazzo, granted to France in 1939 for 99 years, it now serves as the French embassy and is open to the public on July 14. Palazzo Chigi in piazza Colonna was instead intended as a place to host elite parties. Bought by the Chigi family in the mid-17th century, it became the seat of the Austrian embassy in 1917, followed by the headquarters of the Ministry of the Colonies under Mussolini, then the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and, lastly, the Council of Ministers
since 1961. The nearby Palazzo Montecitorio has been the seat of the Chamber of Deputies since 1870. Palazzo Madama is seat of the Italian Senate since 1871, it was the Medici’s Roman residence until Cardinal Ferdinando bought Villa Medici on the Pincian Hill. The villa is currently home to the French Academy in Rome. Palazzo del Quirinale was a papal residence and since 1946 it has been the official residence of the President of the Italian Republic. The Versailles-style 18th-century Palazzo Colonna is nearby, in piazza Santi Apostoli. Assigned to the university by Pope Eugene IV, the Renaissance Palazzo della Sapienza was later modified by Francesco Borromini, who added the Church of Sant’Ivo. The building houses the State Archives today.
BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES
The best restaurants in Rome. Reservation recommended, the ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge is at your service
ALLEGRÌO
The visual and emotional experience of Allegrìo is complemented by food that celebrates Italy and its traditions. It begins in the morning with breakfast, and continues through business lunches and aperitifs to dinner and beyond, with a fascinating afer-dinner drinks list. Executive chef Daniele Creti offers a menu that ranges from the classics of Roman cuisine to more contemporary dishes, alongside the specialities of pizza masters Ivano Veccia and Peppe Aiello.
ALL’ARANCIO D’ORO DA CIALFI
Located a stone’s throw from Piazza del Parlamento and Via del Corso, All’Arancio d’Oro da Cialfi was founded in 1986 and tells the story of the Cialfi family’s passion and commitment. The menu is inspired by authentic traditional flavours, ennobled by the use of superior quality ingredients and an excellent wine list. The restaurant’s informal, convivial atmosphere makes All’Arancio d’Oro da Cialfi a welcoming place where guests are assured of a unique culinary experience.
BABETTE
Imagine dining in an elegant house, a lot of books and the scent of thyme and bread in the air. Babete is a combination of the skills and experiences of the owners, Flora and Silvia, who love pampering their guests every day with special atention. The menu changes depending on the availability of seasonal ingredients, following the creativity of the chef who ofen reinvents family recipes or traditional dishes.
Via Marche, 9 ph. +39 06 86218298
CARPACCIO BEEF RESTAURANT
Carpaccio Beef Restaurant, a Steak House Boutique located next to Via Veneto, is the tale of an all-Italian story, with an elegant venue, sof atmosphere, and modern cuisine that respects Italian tradition while bringing innovation and good taste since 1893. The focus on meat and culinary techniques are the highlights of the experience one can enjoy in this beautiful seting in the heart of Rome.
Via della Conciliazione, 4 ph. +39 06 68892774 choruscafe.it
CHORUS
The outstanding thing about Chorus is the innovative cooking of chef Arcangelo Dandini, who showcases high-quality ingredients and impeccable presentation. A culinary experience to remember, made even more special by the creative ideas of mixology maestro Massimo D’Addezio.
Piazza del Fico, 29 ph. +39 06 6864009 dafrancesco.it
DA FRANCESCO
It was back in 1957 that Francesco Boni and Amalia Tognoloni took over this venue close to Piazza Navona and created a place that has become a landmark for authentic local food. Even today, with the third generation of the family, although there are some contemporary variations, the traditional Roman recipes are ever present.
Ristorante il Miraggio Trevi
Gradita la prenotazione tramite il qr code
Via dell’Umiltà 46A, Roma Ph. +39 06 6780226
FINGER’S ROMA
A luxury Japanese restaurant offering a fabulous culinary experience, thanks to the fusion creations of chef Roberto Okabe. Superb quality, excellent service and a beautiful seting, with generous sofa seating and sof lights creating a delicate, evanescent Japanese mood for a new eastern-style Dolce Vita. To round off the evening, Finger’s Roma has a spacious lounge area devoted to mixology, where you can sample innovative cocktails.
Via Francesco Carrara, 12/15 ph. +39 06 3234453 fingersrestaurants.com
RISTORANTE
IL FALCHETTO
Tucked away among the city’s most delightful squares and narrow streets, Il Falcheto offers meticulous cooking with a strong focus on quality ingredients. The menu features all the classics of Roman cuisine, like pasta with cacio e pepe, amatriciana or carbonara, Jewish-style artichokes, oxtail alla Vaccinara and tripe. There’s also a huge variety of fish dishes. All are accompanied by superb wines, thanks to the list of more than 200 labels, to suit all tastes.
Via dei Montecatini, 12 ph. +39 066 791160
RISTORANTE IL MIRAGGIO
FONTANA DI TREVI
Located between the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Venezia, this restaurant atracts gourmet diners for its exceptional food served in an informal seting with an elegant terrace. For a truly Roman meal, order the artichokes alla romana and the tonnarelli with cacio e pepe. And if your taste is more for authentic Sardinian cuisine, try the fregola with clams, the culurgiones filled pasta and the sea bream with Vermentino wine. Open every day uninterruptedly for lunch and dinner. Gluten-free options are also available.
Via dell’Umiltà, 46A ph. +39 06 6780226
ORMA
IMÀGO
Imàgo - image and magic - summarises in just one word the philosophy behind the restaurant at the Hassler in Rome: a location where the magnificent view of the Eternal City and the flavours come together to create a unique culinary experience. Andrea Antonini has since 2018 been Executive Chef, developing a vision that puts Italian and local recipes front and centre, deconstructing and reconstructing them with exquisite technique and creative flair.
LA FONTANA DI VENERE
Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 69934726 hotelhasslerroma.com
In the beating heart of Rome, a stone’s throw from the Trevi Fountain but away from the tourist chaos, stands La Fontana di Venere, a quiet, informal restaurant where you can sample the most authentic flavours of Roman cuisine. From artichoke alla romana to carbonara, saltimbocca alla romana to poached sea bass all’acqua pazza, every dish here is a culinary experience to remember.
Vicolo dei Modelli, 56 ph. +39 06 85388054
A fine-dining restaurant with an international outlook in the historic Ludovisi neighbourhood. Orma’s architecture is visually stunning, and the food ranges from fine dining, with a chef’s table seating four, to the formula lunch at the bistro and a cocktail bar on the terrace for hot summer nights. Ingredients are brought straight from the Orto di Orma in the Lazio countryside.
Via Boncompagni, 31/33 ph. +39 06 8543182 ormaroma.it
OSTERIA QUARANTAQUATTRO
In the historic centre of Rome, there’s a place that interweaves traditional cooking with modern touches for an unforgetable dining experience. It’s the perfect seting for dinner with friends, a business lunch or a romantic evening. The menu combines mediterranean cuisine with an ongoing quest for new combinations, and the result is a triumph of flavour and tradition. Wines come in a broad range of aromas and styles for a pleasant and lasting memory.
Via Aureliana, 44 ph. +39 06 42013318 osteriaquarantaquattro.com
PIRÒ
Pirò opened in 2015 and today it’s a modern fish restaurant located in a historic palace built in the year 1000, very close to Piazza Navona. In this welcoming and meticulously designed seting, Pirò serves simple food that showcases the natural flavours of local fish, for an unforgetable culinary experience.
RISTORANTE AI COCCI
At Ristorante Ai Cocci, our culinary story is the result of years of experience and passion, and guests are offered a genuine Roman food experience in a warm and welcoming atmosphere, where pasta is prepared the old-fashioned way, desserts are home-made and all ingredients are excellent quality. Every dish tells the story of the city and our love for its traditional cuisine.
Via Luca della Robbia, 21-23 ph. +39 06 5743017 ristoranteaicocci.com
Vicolo della Cancelleria, 36 ph. +39 06 68803140 piroosteriadipesce.it
The owner Clemente Quaglia and his chef have devised a menu with an intense focus on sourcing ingredients. An enjoyable lunch venue, a place to take friends for a summer evening in Rome, or a perfect romantic dinner, sampling traditional dishes reinterpreted with a modern slant. A place to visit every day.
Via Sicilia 47 ph. +39 06 5575012 damareroma.it
RISTORANTE DA’MARE
The restaurant just steps away from Via Veneto where the sea unveils its flavors in a refined yet informal atmosphere. Its cuisine of memories narrates the creativity of Chef Davide Cianeti with offerings of locally sourced seafood and a wine list boasting sought-afer and prestigious labels. The American bar serves tapas paired with cocktails that can be enjoyed both at the counter and in the outdoor seating area.
RISTORANTE LIFE
Via Appia Antica, 139 ph. +39 06 7880494 larcheologia.it
RISTORANTE L’ARCHEOLOGIA
Since 1804, Ristorante L’Archeologia has told the story of the city through its food, its wine cellar and its unique experience. New forms of expression are inspired by traditional regional food and wine culture, while respect for superb ingredients is always at the heart.
Opened 20 years ago in a quiet, elegant street near Piazza di Spagna, Ristorante Life offers high-quality dishes based on fresh fish, meat and white and black truffles. There’s a terrace garden with a huge variety of plants, and indoor dining rooms with beautiful cosy decor. A fantastic cellar of the best Italian wines.
Via della Vite 28 ph. +39 06 69380948 ristorantelife.com
TULLIO
RISTORANTE MIRABELLE
On the seventh floor of the elegant Hotel Splendide Royal, the Mirabelle restaurant offers a sensory experience on one of the most enchanting gourmet terraces in the city. Surrounded by a unique panorama, wonder and marvel intertwine amidst the Mediterranean flavors of refined cuisine and the elegance of unparalleled hospitality.
RISTORANTE ST. ANA
Via di Porta Pinciana, 14 ph. +39 06 42168838 robertonaldicollection.com
Storied restaurant, always a landmark in Rome for good food. Opened in 1968 by Elio Quagliarini and his wife Antonieta, it is now run by their son, Roberto. It is located in an evocative seting of rare beauty, in an historic building with medieval walls, close to Piazza del Popolo. Its ancient walls testify to the countless showbiz stars and illustrious figures who have dined here from the Sixties to today.
Via della Penna, 68 ph. +39 06 3610291 osteriastana.it
Not far from Piazza Barberini and Via Veneto, Tullio has been run by the same family since 1950. It all began with a small grocery shop, and has become a landmark in the city. In this informal, convivial place you can sample typical Florentine dishes (the owners are originally from Tuscany) and seasonal specialities, accompanied by a superb range of wines.
Via San Nicola da Tolentino, 26 ph. +39 06 4745560 tullioristorante.it
TRATTORIE
FELICE A TESTACCIO
Via Mastro Giorgio, 29 ph. +39 06 5746800 feliceatestaccio.com
HOSTARIA DA PIETRO
Via di Gesù e Maria, 18 ph. +39 06 3208816 hostariadapietro.it
MATRICIANELLA
Via del Leone, 4 ph. +39 06 6832100 matricianella.it
A refined restaurant and cocktail bar right in the centre of Rome, with an elegant and exquisitely retro style, where diners can give themselves over to the pleasures of traditional Roman cooking and fresh Mediterranean and seafood dishes for an unforgetable culinary experience. Outdoor seating is available.
Via del Viminale, 2 ph. +39 06 4818229
TRATTORIA DA CESARE AL CASALETTO
Via del Casaleto, 45 ph. +39 06 536015 tratoriadacesare.it
TRATTORIA DA CESARE AL PELLEGRINO
Via Del Pellegrino, 117 ph. +39 06 68801978 tratoriadacesare.it
TRATTORIA PENNESTRI
Via Giovanni da Empoli, 5 ph. +39 06 5742418 tratoriapennestri.it
TAVERNA TRILUSSA
Via del Politeama, 23 ph. +39 06 5818918 tavernatrilussa.com
MICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANTS
ACQUOLINA**
Via del Vantaggio, 14 ph +39 06 3201590 acquolinaristorante.it
ALL’ORO*
Via Giuseppe Pisanelli, 25 ph +39 06 97996907 ristorantealloro.it
AROMA*
Via Labicana, 125 ph +39 06 97615109 manfredihotels.com
ENOTECA LA TORRE**
Lungotevere delle Armi, 22 ph. +39 06 45668304 villalaetitia.enotecalatorre.group
Via della Conciliazione, 4 al secondo piano dell’Auditorium Conciliazione | ph. +39 06 68892774 choruscafe.it
IMÀGO*
Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 69934726 hotelhasslerroma.com
IL PAGLIACCIO**
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 129A ph +39 06 68809595 ristoranteilpagliaccio.com
LA PERGOLA***
Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101 ph +39 06 35092152 romecavalieri.com
PIPERO*
Corso Vitorio Emanuele II 246/248/250 ph. +39 06 68139022 piperoroma.it
HOTEL
RESTAURANTS & BARS
ANIMA
Salita di San Nicola da Tolentino, 14 ph. +39 06 45249009 animaristoranteroma.it
BIVIUM RESTAURANT-CAFÉ-BAR
Piazza di San Marcello ph. +39 06 86814000 sixsenses.com
BRUNELLO BAR AND RESTAURANT
Via Vitorio Veneto, 70A ph. +39 06 06421111 rome.baglionihotels.com
CAFÈ ROMAN0
Via Borgognona, 4M ph. +39 06 69981500 collezione.starhotels.com
COGNAC LOUNGE
Via di San Basilio, 15 ph. + 39 06 4229001 alephrome.com
FOLLIE
Via del Gianicolo 3 ph. +39 06 92590, melia.com
GIANO RESTAURANT
Via Liguria, 28 ph. +39 06 894121 gianorestaurant.com
INEO
Piazza della Repubblica, 46 ph. +39 06 48938061 ineorestaurant.com
J.K. CAFÈ
Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph +39 06 982634 jkroma.com
LA TERRAZZA DELL’HOTEL EDEN
Via Ludovisi, 49 ph. +39 06 47812752 dorchestercollection.com
LE JARDIN DE RUSSIE
Via del Babuino, 9 ph +39 06 32888870 roccofortehotels.com
LUMEN COCKTAILS & CUISINE
Via Vitorio Emanuele Orlando, 3 ph +39 06 47092740 marriot.it
CIELO RESTAURANT
Via Sistina, 69 ph. +30 06 97793716 roccofortehotels.com
ORVM
Via Vitorio Veneto, 125 ph. + 39 06 47081 marriot.com
RISTORANTE
CADORIN & LOUNGE BAR
Via Vitorio Veneto, 70 ph. + 39 06 47871 millenniumhotels.com
Via Vitorio Veneto, 60 ph. + 39 06 42010788 scarpetarestaurants.com
SETTIMO ROMAN
CUISINE & TERRACE
Via Lombardia, 47 ph. + 39 06 478021 setimoristorante.it
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS ARE PERFECT TO ENJOY AS AN APERITIF
INFORMATION GETTING AROUND IN ROME AND THE SURROUNDING AREA
Everything you need to know to move in the city and further afield
TAXI E UBER
Rome’s taxis can be booked by calling +39 06 0609, Free Now app or you can catch one at the taxi stand.
Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00 on weekdays: €3,50. Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00, weekends and holidays: €5,00. Starting price at night from 22:00 to 6:00: €7,50.
Fixed rate from Rome city center to Fiumicino airport: €55,00. Fixed rate from Rome city center to Ciampino airport: €40,00.
Rome is also covered by Uber service with cars bookable through the Uber app.
CAR SHARING
The simple, sustainable shared vehicle solution. To
access the service you need to register with operators and download the Car Sharing Roma app. The fleets of vehicles include hybrid and electric options.
follow the instructions to register and activate the service. To hire bikes or scooters, choose one of the three operators Lime, Dot and Bird (until 2026). They can also be booked via the Uber app.
CITY BIKE AND SCOOTERS
In Rome it’s quick and easy to hire a shared bicycle or scooter: just choose an operator, download the app and
BUS
Rome boasts a total of 379 bus lines (including 29 night buses). The night buses replace the metro when it’s closed, and are essential for geting around the city afer midnight.
Urban lines (U) operate from 5:00 or 6:30, and the service ends at midnight. Night buses (N): operate when the metro is closed, between 00:00 and
DISTANCE FROM ROME TO:
CAPALBIO
KM
KM CIAMPINO
KM
KM
KM
KM NAPLES
KM
KM SPERLONGA
5:00 or 6:00. Bus tickets (like metro tickets) can be bought at metro stations, tobacco shops or newspaper kiosks, or on the ATAC ROMA app. A standard ticket is valid for 100 minutes from stamping, and covers one journey on ATAC public transport. The price is € 1.50. There are also day tickets (€ 7.00), 2-day tickets (€12.50), 3-day tickets (€18.00) and other options.
METRO
The metro is an alternative way to move around the city. There are 4 lines: A (Anagnina-Batistini), B (Laurentina-Rebibbia),
KM
B1 (Laurentina-Jonio) and C (Pantano-San Giovanni), and trains run at the weekends too.
From Sunday to Thursday, the first train is at 5:30 and the last at 23:30; on Friday and Saturday the first is at 5:30 and the last at 1:30. In August 2023, line A is partially closed for refurbishment.
TRAIN
Rome has 71 railway stations. The main one is Roma Termini in the city centre, Italy’s most important railway hub. The second-largest in terms of passenger numbers is Roma Tiburtina. Both are served by high-speed connections to the main Italian destinations. To reach the centre of Rome from Tiburtina, take the blue metro line B and get off at Colosseum.
AIRPORTS
Fiumicino international airport (IATA code FCO) is the largest of Rome’s airports. It is located 32 kilometres from the capital, and connected to Roma Termini by the Leonardo Express train and numerous shutle bus services. Ciampino airport is mainly used by low-cost airlines, and is 17 kilometres from the centre.
HOTELS
ALEPH ROME HOTEL, CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON
Via di S. Basilio, 15
ph. +39 06 4229001 hilton.com
ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIADI ROME HOTEL
Piazza della Repubblica, 48-49
ph. +39 06 489381 anantara.com
BAGLIONI HOTEL REGINA
Via Vitorio Veneto, 72 ph. +39 06 421111 rome.baglionihotels.com
GRAND HOTEL PALACE
Via Vitorio Veneto, 70 ph. +39 06 47871 millenniumhotels.com
HOTEL DE RUSSIE
Via del Babbuino, 9 ph. +39 06 328881 roccofortehotels.com
HOTEL DE LA VILLE
Via Sistina, 69 ph. +39 06 977931 roccofortehotels.com
HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA ROMA STARHOTELS COLLEZIONE
Via Bocca di Leone, 14 ph. +39 06 699811 collezione.starhotels.com
HOTEL EDEN
Via Ludovisi, 49, Roma ph. +39 06 478121 www.dorchestercollection.com
HOTEL HASSLER
Piazza Trinita dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 699340 hotelhasslerroma.com
INTERCONTINENTAL ROME AMBASCIATORI PALACE
Via Vitorio Veneto, 62 ph. +39 06 47493 ihg.com
J.K.PLACE ROMA
Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph. +39 06 982634 jkroma.com
ORIENT EXPRESS LA MINERVA
Piazza della Minerva, 69 grandhoteldelaminerve.com
PALAZZO MANFREDI
Via Labicana, 125 ph. +39 06 77591380 manfredihotels.com
ROME CAVALIERI, A WALDORF ASTORIA HOTELS
Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 ph. +39 06 35091 romecavalieri.com
ROMA LUXUS
Largo Angelicum, 4 ph: +39 06 32091281 romaluxushotel.com
