harry A MAGAZINE FOR MEN BY HARRY ROSEN MENSWEAR
FRESH APPROACH Explore Your Options
FALL/WINTER 2017 $5.00
SUITS
SUITABILITY STRATEGY A great suit is a statement of self-confidence, no matter where it takes you – to a cocktail party, a bar, a friend’s wedding… Who knows, you might even wear it to the office.
Photography Chris Nicholls Styling Joan Balda Grooming Laura Szucs, Judy Inc
Introduced this spring, Canali’s Kei suit has been exceptionally well received. Men enjoy the sharp silhouette, natural shoulders and contemporary cut of the trousers. Wear the jacket as a sports jacket – it still looks right. Fall fabrics like this grey exaggerated glen check have a richer feel than spring and summer choices. CANALI suit, $2,498, shirt, $365, and tie, $198.
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Samuelsohn’s signature Ice Wool fabric is an extraordinary combination of performance and luxury. Temperature-shocked, the wool acquires a natural resiliency that makes it water- and stain-resistant and improves its memory, so the shape bounces back. Seen here, an Ice Wool wool-and-silk blend in a blue-grey mélange. SAMUELSOHN suit, $1,398; J.P. TILFORD shirt, $195; CANALI tie, $198.
A suit is a long-term investment – think three to five years. Keep the look fresh by deploying your options, jazzing it up or dressing it down with different shirts and a variety of accessories such as ties, pocket squares and boutonnieres.
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Buying a suit begins with test-driving different styles from several brands until you find the one that meets your specific needs and makes you look and feel your best. Your Clothing Advisor can guide you to the most natural fit, requiring minimal alterations.
The beauty of a threepiece suit is its versatility, whether you’re at the office or out on the town. A tonal charcoal windowpane adds visual richness to this example. Z ZEGNA three-piece suit, $1,495, and shirt, $275.
Why yes, that is a Mont Blanc pen! You’ll find an extensive selection of Mont Blanc belts, cufflinks, wallets, pens and bags online at harryrosen.com and in the Mont Blanc shop-in-shops inside Harry Rosen’s Yorkdale store in Toronto and Les Cours Mont Royal store in Montreal.
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Exceptional comfort is this suit’s secret, thanks to a pamperingly soft virgin wool and mohair fabric woven to provide a stretch effect to the ultra-slim fit. It feels as if the suit is almost conscious of your shape. And then there’s the colour – a deep aubergine that makes a statement at the office or at play. One caveat – the shirt and tie are best kept neutral. BOSS suit, $1,295.
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A Munro suit can look youthful and modern; it can look authoritative and professional, too. This charcoal glen check with a blue overcheck is one of hundreds of fabrics available – so much more interesting than plain grey. MUNRO suit, $1,198; ETON shirt, $270; CANALI tie, $198.
The beauty of Munro’s CustomMade program is the ease with which you can reinvest. Once your measurements are on file, you need only choose a different fabric for your next suit. Then comes the fun of deciding your own styling details, from shoulders and lapels to the lining, buttons, monogram, surgeon’s cuffs… whatever you want.
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JACKETS
DIVERSIFY YOUR
PORTFOLIO The idea of what a jacket is and what it can do has grown dramatically in recent years. We now think of a man’s jacket collection as the cornerstone of his wardrobe – for weekends and evening events, and for workdays when a suit isn’t required.
Photography Riley Stewart Styling Joan Balda Grooming Laura Szucs, Judy Inc
A hybrid jacket is a fall essential. This one, in a subtle charcoal-and-navy plaid, is fully lined and has quilted elbow patches and the warmth of pure wool. Zip in the lightly quilted removable gilet and do up the throat latch, and this jacket is all the outerwear you need on a cool autumn morning. SAMUELSOHN jacket, $1,298; CANALI shirt, $298, and jeans, $375.
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Vicuña is a Vic allso o a colo olour – the e tawny brown of the an nimal’s natural coat – and Alless ssandro Sartori has made goo go ood d use u of it throughout his new ne ew co colle llecti ction. on He Here, re, it app ppear e s as ear as an an over overche check che ck agains aga instt a bl blue ue bac backkgr kgrroun ound, nd, on n the e ja jac cket’s cket’s t s ta taped ped in nner sea eams ms and as ms a an inter in nternal ter erna e nal n a washab was hable le nub buckk po ocke ckket. c ERMENEGIL ERMENE GILDO DO ZE ZEG EG GN NA A j ket, $2,495, sh jac hirt irt,, $395, 39 395 95, tie,, $220 tie $220,, pant pants, s, $69 $ 5 and shoes, sho es,, $ $825 25.
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The plain dark turtleneck and trousers let the jacket’s black-and-blue plaid make an uninterrupted statement of style. A soft, unlined construction and patch pockets lend it an easygoing informality that is still smart and sophisticated.
PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
L.B.M. 1911 jacket, $898; HARDY AMIES knit, $295.
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A jacket of many moods. Paired with a floral shirt it has a playful, casual feel, but you could wear it just as easily with a shirt and tie for the office. Either way, it looks cool and polished. And where is Etro’s trademark paisley pattern? The lining, of course. ETRO jacket, $1,498, shirt, $425, and pants, $450.
As a brand, Twitter is all about inviting social experiences and being intuitive and easy to navigate… why should its office space be any different? The design team led by Anthony Orasi and Deanna Hayko, now at iN Studio, blended the urban feel of Toronto’s King West neighbourhood with the natural warmth of Muskoka. The Twitter staff rolled up their sleeves to fully participate in the naming of meeting rooms and closed workspaces throughout, fostering a sense of pride and ownership in the finished space.
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A merlot-and-blue houndstooth fabric illustrates Baldassari’s love of colour. Soft structure and a comfortable fit mean the jacket feels as good as it looks. MAURIZIO BALDASSARI jacket, $798, and shirt, $248.
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Boldly contrasting patterns and colours can be dramatically elegant when put together well. Here the sport shirt and tie harmonize with Isaia’s lavender plaid jacket – the pinnacle of Neapolitan tailoring. ISAIA jacket, $3,895, shirt, $520, and tie, $295; ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA shoes, $825.
Our thanks to Rolex for lending our models watches. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 is the modern archetype of the classic watch, made with Rolesor, Rolex’s trademark alloy of gold and steel. The Champagne dial is set with diamonds. Waterproof to 100 metres (page 86). The Rolex Cellini Dual Time in Everose pink gold shows the time in two time zones simultaneously and features an elegant sun and moon day/night indicator in an aperture on the sub-dial for the second time zone (page 80). FALL/WINTER 2017 87
LUXURY
DIVIDENDS OF
SUCCESS The wise man knows how to deal with his hardearned rewards – reinvest them in objects of quality. This isn’t just spending… Experience has proven the value of these assets, created by blue-chip design houses: world-renowned craftsmanship, beauty and longevity. Status inspires confidence.
Photography Chris Nicholls Styling Jimmy Moorhouse, Plutino Group Grooming Jamie Hanson, Lang Management
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(opposite page) A little alpaca in the fabric adds softness and extra comfort to this unlined jacket in a rich olive green with a light grey overcheck. Wear it over a cashmere sweater with a pair of five-pocket flannels and you’re ready for the weekend. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA jacket, $2,950, knit, $1,400, and pants, $635.
(this page) This stunning cashmere coat is half double-breasted so it looks like a db when you button it up but doesn’t have extra fabric flapping about when you don’t. A half-belt at the back brings in the waist a little and the rear vent is caped, buttoning from the hem to the belt. The quilted vest (also available in cherry red) is so light you could wear it under a jacket. Those chocolate brown, lug-soled boots have a removable leather strap on the top – yet another stylish detail from Mr. Cucinelli. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI overcoat, $9,595, vest, $1,795, shirt, $2,125, pants, $925, and boots, $1,375.
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The handmade craftsmanship of a Kiton jacket is a given – each garment is essentially unique – and the fabrics are always impeccable. Here, however, the story is in the palette of different blues and the way they work together – the teal check, the simple powder blue shirt, all pulled together by the navy-and-bright-blue medallion tie. Nothing actually matches but the harmonies are beautiful. KITON jacket, $7,995, and pants, $1,695.
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Giorgio Armani proposes a thick stretch-wool jersey in lieu of a coat on a warm day in early fall. The sleek, modern silhouette is quintessential Armani, with zipper details on the sleeves and funnel neck echoing the full-zip front. GIORGIO ARMANI knit jacket, $2,495.
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The finishing touch to a cashmere sweater and cashmere track pants, this substantial lamb shearling bomber has a removable collar in a different shearling. Buttons fasten into leather loops if you don’t feel like zipping it up. Cucinelli’s new sneakers are panelled with corduroy and flannel. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI leather bomber, $7,925, knit, $1,195, shirt, $825, pants, $895, and sneakers, $1,375.
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Loro Piana masters the youthful athleisure look with this trim shearling biker jacket, highlighted by a stand-up moto collar and leather trim along the placket. It’s exclusive to Harry Rosen in Canada and just the thing to wear over a hoodie and track pants, both in a cashmere-wool blend. LORO PIANA bomber, $9,250, knit, $4,075, pants, $2,595, and sneakers, $1,295. 94 HARRY
Shot at Chef Susur Lee’s Luckee Restaurant and Bar, in the Soho Metropolitan Hotel, Toronto. Here, Chef Lee presents Nouvelle Chinoise cuisine – classic dishes and dim sum filtered through his unique imagination. luckeerestaurant.com
Who wouldn’t enjoy a baby cashmere citylength coat with a collar and lining in combed castorino fur? It’s also available in navy and looks elegantly casual over a striped crewneck sweater in a cashmere-silk blend. LORO PIANA jacket, $14,995, knit, $1,650, and pants, $2,595.
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ATHLEISURE
SKI CULTURE You don’t need a chalet and deep powder to pick up on the coming season’s latest vibe: ski culture is hot. And it’s not just design houses with a legitimate Alpine background, such as Moncler, referencing the slopes; Z Zegna and Mackage are also in on the act. You could say it’s a way of embracing winter.
Photography Chris Nicholls Styling Joan Balda Grooming Laura Szucs, Judy Inc
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(opposite page) Harry Rosen and Mackage collaborated on the design of this exclusive hooded vest. In a down-filled matte nylon, it’s perfect for fall or spring rather than mid-winter, layered over a chunky knit. Mackage always has fun with leather – in this case, as trim and piping on the zipper. MACKAGE vest, $550; S.N.S. HERNING knit, $450; REIGNING CHAMP pants, $160; VERSACE sneakers, $798.
(this page) Moncler’s familiar red, white and blue trim inspires the crewneck sweater’s red-and-navy-speckled yarn. It also appears on the placket of this intriguing tri-fabric, down-filled winter bomber. The grey panels are flannel wool, the navy shoulders use woollen twill and the white patches on the arms are cotton canvas. MONCLER GAMME BLEU jacket, $2,860, knit, $1,345, shirt, $700, and pants, $1,530.
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Who has more right than Moncler to have fun with the ski motif? The company began on the slopes of the French Alps. This down-ďŹ lled nylon bomber sports a navy-andwhite print of skiers in action. MONCLER jacket, $2,385, knit, $805, and boots, $730.
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Take a look at the novelty motif on that chili red, pure wool, crewneck sweater – a cartoon pom-pom toque and ski goggles. Z Zegna also makes a sweatshirt version. Pair either one with merino jogging pants and a quilted, down-ďŹ lled vest. Z ZEGNA vest, $598, knit, $795, scarf, $335, pants, $365, and sneakers, $565.
Furs courtesy of Caroline Furs
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COVERAGE REPORT
URBAN FALL We know what mid-winter’s like here and we appreciate the value of a really well-made, really warm buffer layer. But in Canada a man needs some kind of outerwear for eight months of every year – different coats to cope with the infinite permutations of weather we experience from the first cool days of autumn through to the end of spring.
Photography Chris Nicholls Styling Jimmy Moorhouse, Plutino Group Grooming Jamie Hanson, Lang Management
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Corneliani’s nanotechnology program imparts rare qualities to the wool twill gabardine fabric of this clean-cut topcoat. It’s stain-resistant, water-resistant and windproof – perfect for anyone who travels. CORNELIANI overcoat, $1,850; HARDY AMIES knit, $595; ORDEAN shirt, $175; MASON’S pants, $285.
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Here’s a camo field jacket in Belstaff’s familiar waxed cotton fabric, part of an exclusive capsule collection designed in collaboration with the famous Japanese streetwear brand Sophet. Eye-catching is the last thing traditional camouflage should be, but every rule has an exception. BELSTAFF jacket, $1,075, knit, $330, and pants, $330.
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COVERAGE REPORT
NET WORTH Being part of a team requires an emotional investment – even if it’s just a weekly hockey game with old friends. It’s a physical investment too: something you do to stay in shape, so all those fine clothes you own will continue to fit you perfectly. And to protect them you need a coat.
Photography Riley Stewart Styling Jimmy Moorhouse, Plutino Group Grooming Laura Szucs, Judy Inc
The down-and-feather filling of this lightly quilted bomber will keep you warm in fall and spring – taped zippers, the funnel neck and the placket block any drafts. The navy-and-black jacquard patchwork pattern features varying geometric blocks and lines. ARMANI COLLEZIONI bomber, $1,395, knit, $450, and pants, $375. 106 HARRY
A depa depa ep rtu ep r t rre e for for BO OSS S att Har H Ha a ry y Ros Rosen, en, n, th his is hip hip-llen le en e ng gth th, mine th nerral ra all bl b ue ue qui qu u lte te ed jjac acket kett iss fil ke fi led ed wi w th h duc uc ck down dow do n,, sub substa ubssta tantiall eno enough u to ug kkee eep a ma man war man arm a r throu rough rough ro h the th he Ca anad adian adian an mi midwi dwinte dwinte dw dwi nter. r r. S e-e Sid e entr entr ntr y ches ches hest pockket ets ts, p c pat pa ch h poc ocket ocket kets at the the e hip hiip (a (an nd d manyy more ma man more orre r pocke po ocke ke etss ins ins in n ide ide id de) can a ac accom com c om o mmod mo odat ate a ate all hiss e ryd ev eve yd dayy eq eq equ qu uipm ip iipm pm p ment ent.. The ent e d a de det ach ac chabl ch ab e hood hood ood d co c ver ve e sa st nd sta ndd-up p col c lar. co lar a . We ear a th t e coa co oat open p to o sh show show w off ff the th h sma sm sma mart r t burgun bur urgun un ndy d lin lining ining ng g. BOS BOS SS bo bombe bombe ber, er, $1, $ 095 09 95 5, and p paants ts, $185 ts, 185.. 18
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Here are two great Canada Goose offerings for men who don’t favour fur. The Hargrave (left) is exclusive to Harry Rosen. This midweight bomber has a quilted body but unquilted Arctic Tech fabric on the shoulders and elbows. Zippered side vents and a removable hood give many options. The Macmillan (right) has a snorkel hood that can be folded back and an extended back for bonechilling weather. Its grey brush camo is a new colourway for the Fall 2017 collection. (left) CANADA GOOSE bomber, $950; REIGNING CHAMP knit, $140, and pants, $160; BENSON T-shirt, $98; WIGENS cap, $110. (right) CANADA GOOSE jacket, $950, and toque, $150; S.N.S. HERNING knit, $450; JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA knit, $198, and pants, $248.
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The Drummond (left) is a three-in-one coat inspired by Canada Goose’s Squall jacket, originally made for Toronto police officers on high-risk teams. The inner vest is filled with goose down for maximum warmth; the outer shell is in durable Arctic Tech fabric. The Maccullouch (right) features blue brush camo – another new colourway for Canada Goose. Details include zippered side vents, four big 3-D pockets, reflective bands on the right chest pocket and coyote fur trim on the hood. (left) CANADA GOOSE three-in-one jacket, $1,495; BENSON shirt, $145, and knit, $75; DL jeans, $248. (right) CANADA GOOSE jacket, $1,095, and knit, $395; RE-HASH jeans, $395.
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This three-in-one is really a four-in-one – you can wear it with or without the hood. The quilted nylon liner can be worn on its own, as can the unlined poly-nylon shell. Its taped seams make it water-resistant, turning it into the ideal raincoat for wet fall days. PAUL & SHARK jacket, $1,425, and knit, $555; BRAX pants, $245.
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Neve Neve Ne verr m miind nd hed e ge ge f u un nd tact ta acttic ics,, our ur llea ea e adi adi ding ng gd des e ig es igne ne ers are ta ar takkiing ng the the he str tree eet in a di diffe ff re ent n t wa ayy – as in insp sp pirrat atio iio o on n for th fo hiiss sea easo son’ so on n’’s ed e dg gyy, fash fassh fa hio onn-ffo orw rwar wa arrd ou utfi t fi ttss. Th T hes ese ar a re c are cllot othe hes fo or m me en who who w wh we elc come ome a vent om ve n ve nttur ure e,, wh w ho ar ho are pr prep re ep par ae ed d to tta akke e rissks ks in tth he n na am me e of stt yylle e..
Ph P Phot hot otog ograph rra apph hy Ch Chri Chri r i s Ni Nicch hol ollss Sttyylliin S ng Jimm JJiimm mmy Mo Moor orhous hous ho u se e,, Plu luttiin no o G ro roup up Grrooooming G ming mi ng JJa ami mie Ha Han nsson on, La L ang ng Ma an nag agem eme en nt 112 11 1 12 HARR 12 HA H ARR A RR RY
(oppos (op po pos osite os te pa age ge) e) e) Ver V e ersac sa e ha has as alw allw way ays a ys y s llo ov ov ve ved e ed d th the he G he Grre eek m eek me ean nde nd err pat atte tern, ter te n se n, seen en e n he ere o er on n the he eye-ca ey -catch tching ye yellllllow-a and ndd lavend la nde er cre rewne wne wneck ec sweate er. r. That styl Tha tylish sh h field field ja fie jacket has leather detailling on ha n the pocketss wh while the washed and abraded charcoal denims have metal studs pat p terned around the pockets. VERSACE jacket, $1,295, knit, $775, and jeans, $575; P DA PR PRA A boots, $880.
(th ((t th t is pag pag age)) Dol D ollc ce & Gabbana ce abb abb ba ana an na na d diid idn dn’ d n’t use p use prrofe ofess of ssi ssi sion ona ona nal mode odels dels ffor orr it its runwa wa ay y sh sho ho h ow this s sea s se ea e as so son on o n; in ins ins nsttea te ead it rec crruitted e mililillle m len ennia en nia i l bl bllo og o gg ge ers and er n ssoc so o ial medi oc dia di i stars tarss. Th The he mer me m erino e ino wo in w ol sweater come ome es fro fro fr rom that ha at sh show, o th ow ow, the e cro rown kn kkni niitte n itt tte tte ed in into ntto nt o tth he pat att a ttern tt errrn n, the he “ki ““k king” g” be benea benea neath th it a sew sewn ewn-on -on pa p pat atc ch. h. Th The very trim pan ants ts ar cr are c opp opped above ve the he an ankle kle le and de an and decor co ate ated with h me metal tal miliilita m itaryy but itary buttton button ton tons o s on on th the he hips hip hi ps an a nd n d he hems. ms DO D OL O LCE & GABBANA ABB BANA A kn k it, $1, $ 1 575 1, 575, shir shirt, t $47 475, 5, an an nd d pa pant n , $1,2 nts $1,295. 95
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(le eft ft)) The bo The bo olld pla pla lacke cket re ea eal al ally ly stta sta s tan an nd ds d so ou ut o on nD Diie ese sel Bla se ac ck G d Gol d’s ’s ssh ’s harp le leath atthe err b bom bo om mber berr. be Sta S St tack ck jjea je ea eanss are e de dessi sig iig gn ne ed e d to cru ru rumpl umpl mp e belo belo e ow the el elow he kn kn ne ee, ee, e, the c co oated ated blac ate blackk deni denim m distre dis di esse ssed d with th a bl bleach ble ached ach ed effect effe ffect ct at at the h hi hips. p DI SEL DIE EL BL LACK CK GOLD C GOLD GO D bomber bom ber,, $1,795 ber 1,7 1 795, 95 5, sh shirt irt,, $295 irt $295, 295 5, and nd jeans jeanss, $ $595 5 ; 595 VERSACE VERSAC VER SAC ACE sh shoes oes,, $595 oes $595 59 .
(r ght (ri g ) Di se Die sell inven in nven v ted d dis i tre istre resse re sse ss s sed deni s en nims, ms, m s, see en to effe ect her here with here with th h a blu blu ue perfor per e forate for orate ed sued ede bomb e om mber er tha h t’s ha t p perfe rfect ctt fo for or a sun s ny su ny fal falll day an day a d lig i t enou igh en nou ou ugh to o wea wear ind in nd n door o rs rs. s. N Nov ovelt velt ellt e lty gra rap ap a ph hic hi ics are ic ics are re evveryw eve rywher here her e this this h s se s aso a n,, as inc nc clud lu uding ud ing ng g on o Diese Diesel’s Di ese ell’ss ssc carl arlett crrre cre ewne ewne wn w neck ck kn knitt.. kni DIIE DI DIE ESEL SEL SE E bom bom mbe ber b er, $898, er 89 89 898 98 8, kn kni nit, t, $1 $14 $14 148, 8, and and d je j ans, anss, $32 328 3 28; Z ZEG EG EGN GNA sn sneakers eeak ak keers errs, $ $535 53 . 53 535 114 HA 114 HAR HARR AR Y
The Th he pa pattch tc ch s ch sh hirt irrt is i a Lan La vin in signa sig na ure nat ure,, m mad ade from from r th hree ee e or fou o r diffe ou iiff ff re rren e en ntt pl plai l id pi laid piec ieces eces es sttitch stitch sti tch tc hed ed togeth tog to og o ge ettther eth er. rT Th he avia avia viator vi i to ttor or or bo bom b omber om mb be ber e iss al also so a composi om o omp mp posi os te os e wiitth a le wit w with leath ath he err fro ffrro ont nt, nt, t, n nyylon lo on o n b k and bac and d sle le eev eves and eve and da sta tandnd u ndup p she she hearl hea arling rling colla co olla llar. lar. r. LANVIN LAN V bo VIN bombe m r,, $4 $ ,560 $4, 5 , shirt, shi rt, $1 rt $1,07 ,07 ,070 0 0, 0, jea jeans, ns,, $8 $800, 00, 00 an and nd d sn sneak eakers eak keers r , $760 rs $760 760. 76 60.
FALL/WINTER 2017 115
Kn K Kno nown w for for iitts ae ec ectio ec on for for a soft oft, ft,, na n tur tu tu urral a sho sh ho h ou ullld uld der, er, r L.B L .B B.M. M. p prres esse ese entss th this is m is mod od o e ern rn n top topco pcoa at iin nag grrey ey Pri Prin Pr nc nce ce c eo of Waless chec Wal che ec ckkk.. Ru ck. Runni R nn nni n ni nin ng g th the h gamut gam gamu ut fro from rom casu cas asuall to to sui su uitt we r, wea r, it c cou ould w o wel we ell beco come co me me yourr fav yo you fa avo av vouri vo uritte e pie piece off piec au aut utumn umn n ou outer terw te e we wear. wea r. L.B B.M .M. M. 1 19 911 11 ovverc 11 ercoat rcoatt, $1, $1 $ 1,09 1 09 095 95;; RA 95 RAF A F FII knit, knit, kn it, $ it $3 $350 50; 50 0; 0; BRA BR B RA R AX pa AX pants n , $25 nts 255 2 55 5; ETR TR RO sho hoe, $99 hoe, $9 995..
116 6 H HARR HA ARR RY
No ot your fat ath her er’s s preppy Po olo o!! The o There here’ re e s a touc uch ch of o strree etw wis iise edgi gines ness to the e ne ew w colllecttio on with on, ith ca amou oufl oufl uflag age e ca carrgo rgo g pa ant n a nts an nd big g, bol ol graph old graphic ic cs on on the vin nta age-insp n pire ed lett tte erm rman an n jac cke ket. Its bod body iiss melton body wo ool, the oo th h sleev sleev sl eevves ee es are le eath ather er an nd th there ere’s rib bbed bed e wo wool o on ol th he co colla ar and nd cu uffs. PO OLO RAL ALP PH H LAU AUR REN EN vaa si vvar sit ity jacket, acket, ack t, $ $8 898, 98 8, k it, $1 knit, kni $15 $ 150, 1 0, and d pa pan ants nts, $178 nts, 17 78 8.
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Yve Yv Yve es Sa alllo alo omom mom mo om, the th he e re rren enown owned ow d Par Parisi i ian isi an ffur fu ur ur and le leath ather ath err spe e sp c cia ia alist, llis iis st, t pre p resents sen en ntss an ice c g grrey cot cotton co tton to on n twillll p tw twi pa par arka ka wit with h a cl c ou oud udcol o our ured ed shearl she hear arlling lilinin a nin i g. ing. The he co colla olla llarr is trim trim mm med d wi w th tos to tos oscan c a shea ca can shea e rrliing n – the the e flee fl ece ce tre treate a d to to look look like llike e fur ur. YVE VES S SALO ALOMON AL O jac ja acket ket,, $2,5 ke ket 2 500; 00;; 00; JOH JO OHN VARV O VA ARV RVATO TOS TO STA STA T R USA A kn k kniit, it, $ $3 398; 98 8; JACOB JA JAC OB O BC COH OH HËN jeeans HË an ns, $595 595;; PAJ PAJ A AR AR bo boo oots otss, $450 50 5 0 0. 11 11 118 HAR HARR H ARR A RR RY
Designers Dean and Dan Caten play with proportion this season, sewing plaid cuffs and shirttails onto a hoodie emblazoned with their logo. Super-distressed denims reference punk and the whole look is finished with an oversized, puffy, shiny down-filled vest. DSQUARED2 vest, $1,625, knit, $1,405, and jeans, $750; GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI sneakers, $810.
FALL/WINTER 2017 119
The Briti British sh h know kno now coat coat oats s b ter than bet than th n any anyon nyon one ne n e and and tthi his tai aiillore ored d came a l-colo -coloure olo l ure ured d top top pc co oat is cert certain ai ly ai ly sma martt en e noug oug ug gh h to o we w ar ar ov ove ver a su suit it. It it. I also loo als ook o okks o ks ve err y cool ery cool co ol wit wiith a mo m mor o e casu ssu ua all ou out o uttfit, u fit, t tth hrro row ow wn on wn over ove ver a h ho hood oo odi od diie, d e, a ch ham am a mbr brra bra ay shirt shi r t and d a pai paiir of of ca ca asssu asu ual trou tro use sers. s Ni Nine-to-fivve ve bec co ome mes th the he wee w ken ke end. en d HAR AR RDY YA AM AMI MIIE M MIES ES S ove ov o vveerc rcoattt,, $1 $1,195; ,19 19 95 5;; JO JO OH HN VA ARV AR RV VAT ATO A TOS OS ST ST TA AR USA SA sh shirt, $228; RE GNI REI RE GN NG CHA H MP kn nit, itt $2 $ $21 2 0; 21 0; PT0 PT T 1p pants,, $395.
120 HARRY
Here Her e are e two tw lo l oks ks s that tha th att could cou ld d onl o y be from on om Jo ohn n Va va Var vatos. s.. On On th the e left, e , an asymme asy mme m tri trical c ly zip cal ca ipper ppered red d jac a ket et in a coa oa ated te e sttret etch kni k itt tha at look ooks like ke e le leat ath a ther, r, la r, l yered yer ered e ove ove er a ve vestt and a a ban an ban ndd co lar col larred la d sh shi hirt r t On rt. n th he righ igh ght, t a t, uni u un n que qu sh hawl awl-co aw -co co c ollla ared ed,, ed cut utawa ut awa wa ay jack ac acket c ett in in an an alp all aca a caaw ol blen woo blen en nd. d The Th T he h re’ re’ss on nly ly on ne but utttton to on to t fa f st ste t n it – bu b t fivve e but uttto u ton ton o s ru unn nning ng gu up p ea e ch c c cuff uff. Wiitth velv Wit W elvet e tri et ttrr m over over err th e the poc po p ockket etts an nd do on n the he cu he cuffs, ffs, ff s, it’ss s u sim ult ul llttane ane neo ne ous ussly ly d da dap ap ppe per p e an and rroc oc ck ’n’ n’ rol oll.l. ol (le ((l lleeft fft) tt)) J JOH OH O OHN HN VARV AR RVATO VATO TO TOS OS STA ST STA STAR TAR US SA A ja jacke ck keet, k t, $ $9 $99 9 8, 99 8, ves ves est, t, $25 $25 58, 58, 8, shi sh hiiirt h rrt, rt t, $248, $2 24 48, 48 8, and 8 an nd paaan pan p ntts ts, ss,, $2 $2 29 98; 98 9 8;; 8 PR PR PRA RA AD ADA DA Ab bo oo otttss, $8 ots 88 880 80. 8 ((rri (ri righ gght ht) JOHN JO JOH J OHN VARV OH AR RV VAT AT ATO TO OS COL CO C OL O LLE LEC EC E CTIO TIIO T ION ov overc erc er r o oat oa aatt, $1 $1, $ 1,,6 1 69 698 98, knit 98 niitt, $548 n 54 5 48 4 8, an an and nd dp paant nts n ttss, $498 49 4 98 8. FA FAL FALL F ALL ALL L//WI /W /WIN WIN W IN NTE TER ER 2017 017 0 17 1 121 12 21 2 1
FIRM FOOTINGS THE FALL/WINTER 2017 SHOE COLLECTION Footings help you balance the books; a superb pair of shoes has its own fine balance of beauty and practicality. Do the math: top-quality footwear looks better, feels more comfortable and lasts years longer – a sound investment.
THE BEST OF THE BEST Venera Ven erable era ble En Engli glish gli sh firm m Jo J hn Lob Lobb b is is syno ynonym nym y ous o w h impe wit impe mpecca ccable cca b sh ble shoem oemaki oem a ng. T aki This i dou uble le mo monk nk (to ( p) sho hows w why ws why.. Joh hn L Lobb o , $2,8 obb 2,850. 50. 0 On y seve Onl seve ev n peop peop o le e wor workk for for Bon Bonton toni,i, a thir third-g d-gene enerat ene rat a ion on family fam ily fir fi mo off sshoe hoemak hoe ma ers mak rs.. Thei Thei h r work work o sho h p is in in the the fam amily ily home home in the th sm small all to town wn n of Mon o teg tegran ran naro in n Italy’ Ita ly’ss Le Le Marc arche he e reg region io . The e dozzen or so pai pa rss of sho sh es the ey comp comp omplet let ete e in a day day are are mad made from th he high high ighest est-est qualit qua lityy leat lit leat ather herr, pain ainsta stakin kingly gly st stitc itched hed d an a d enti enti ntirel re y rel col olour oured our e by han ed and. d. Det etail ailling ng is su subtl b e but btl butt sur surpri p sin pri sing g– such suc h as as tthe he bra raid id d sti stitch tching tch ing n a aroun u d the the e vam amps ps on the tw two o oxfo xfords rds sh s own w he here re (ce (centr ntre e and and d bot bottom tom o ). B ton Bon tonii, $1,3 $1,3 1,395 95 and $1 $1,39 ,395. ,39 5 5. (previ (pr eviious s pa page) age) e) Every Eve ry man ne needs eds a pai pairr of of doub doub ouble le m mon onk-s k-stra trap tra p shoe oess in his wardr wardr rdrobe obe.. This obe This wi w ngt ngtip ip was made made in Ita t ly by To Boo Boott New New Yor Yorkk espe especia cia ially lly fo forr Harr arryy Rose Rose en, usi using ng a combin com binati ation on of fine finely ly bur burnis nished hed sm smoot oot o h and and cav caviar iar-g in leathe gra th rs. To Boo Boott New New Yor York k, $495 $495..
THICK SOLES
Dress shoes with more substantial soles are very much in fashion this season, as evidenced by these four examples. Clockwise from top, Santoni, Harry Rosen Made in Italy, Ermenegildo Zegna (it looks heavy but is actually extremely lightweight) and Tod’s. (clockwise from top) Santoni, $1,085; Harry Rosen Made in Italy, $375; Ermenegildo Zegna, $785; Tod’s, $635.
OXBLOOD The fir first st wri wrr tte t n rrefe eferen ef efe ren ence ce to oxb oxbloo loo o d as as a co olou o r is is in an Engl nglish ish h bo book, ok, Who Whole l le Art of Dyying in , publ publ b ish shed ed d in 170 1 05. 5. Afte A r blac blac ackk and d bro brown, wn, it is co c nsi n der dered ed d th the he mos o t acce ccepta ptable pta ble co olou o r for forr a gent entlem lem eman’ em an s shoe an’ shoe hoes, s loo s, ookin ki g partticu kin icular larly lar lyy deb debona bona o irr aga a ins nsst a na navy v tro vy r use us r. r Tho h ugh ug ne never verr ou outt of styl styl t le, e, it is enj n oyi o ng a oy mom o ent n in n th the e lime lime elig li ht h thiis seas eason, on, w with man manyy shoe ma shoe h c co ompa panie nie es show ow wing g wha h t they eyy ca can n do do with th h it. it. C ockw Clo kwise kw is fr ise f om m top le left, ft, Tod Tod’s To ’s loa loafer f h fer has an exce exce c pti p ona pt nallyy lu ustrous str t ous ou sh sheen een en; en; the h o oxxblo blood od oxfford fr from om m Har Harry ry Ros Rosen en Mad Made e in Ital Ital ta alyy is cons on nstru tructe tru cted cte d from from o om contra con trasti tra s ng st sti g smo mooth o and oth and cros cros ross-h s-hatc s-h atched atc hed d sa saffian ffian a o leat leather eat ather hers. s.. The Th doubl doub uble monk o str trap ap iss als also o from Ha Harry rry Ro Rosen sen Ma Made de in n Ita Italy. ly. Fe Ferra rr gam rra gamo’s mo’s lo loafe aferr show afe show o so off ff the e firm’s firm ’s tradem tra radem demark ark Ganci G nci Ga ncini ni orn orname ament; ame nt; Ba arke rk r’ss smoot oth ankl ankl kle e boot boo oot ha hass an almo lmost st sc lptura scu l tura lpt ra al grac ce whili e Cana Cana anali’ li’ss capli’ capap-toe toe de derby rby is i bu burni rnishe rni sh d with she with ssp plendid len endid gra gradat radat da ion o s of of colo colo olour. ur. (cllock o wis wise e from fro rom to top p left) left) Tod Tod’s ’s,, $590 ’s 590; Har arry ry y Ros R en en Mad Made e in Ital a y, $425 5 an nd $4 $42 425; 5 Sal Salvat vatore vat ore Fe Ferra rragam rra gamo gam o, $805 $805 805;; Ba Barke rk r Hand rke dcra crafted ft d,, $625 fted 62 ; Ca Canal nalii, $ nal $695 695.. 695
SHEARLING BOOTS When the cold weather hits, a pair of shearling-lined boots is a man’s best friend. To Boot New York (left) makes this example in soft deerskin with vertical zips on both sides. BOSS (top) offers a stylish combination of smooth and caviar-grain leathers and a black shearling lining. Henderson’s shearling-lined deerskin boot has a sneaker sole for maximum comfort. Deerskin is a particularly soft leather; use a neutral cream when you polish your deerskin shoes or boots. (left to right) To Boot New York, $560; BOSS, $575; Henderson for Harry Rosen, $695.
LEATHER SNEAKERS Wearin Wea ring rin g whit hite e snea snea e ker kerss with with a sui u t says a on one e thin hing; g; wearin wea ring rin g unab nabash ashedl ash edlyy luxu edl luxu uxurio rious rio us le us lea eathe th r snea ne ker kerss makes mak es a far far mor more e subt subt ubtle le sta statem tem ment en nt.. From m to top p left, Canali Can ali de detai tails tai ls the si sides d of des o this this th i sne n ak ne ake k r with with a cros ross-h s-hatc s-h atch atc h patt patt attern ern wh hile l Tom To om Ford’s ord d’ss nam ame e– in gol g d – is on th the e tip of his h ttongu ng g e e.. J Joh ohn Lobb b ’ss Levah Lev ah sne sneake akerr is ake is made made in n th the e same same mo ottl t ed tl Museum Mus eum ca calf lf lea leathe therr used for the for iits tss dre d ess s sho ss hoes. s. To Boo Boott New New Yor York’s k’s sn sneak eaker eak err has ha as a pal p err pa lea eathe therr heel the heel em embos bossed bos sed wi w th h a map map p of New Yo York; rk; Lo Loro ro Pia P na end endows ow ows w it itss navyy deer nav deer eerski skin ski n vers vers ersion ion with wiith a signat sig nature nat ure wh white ite so sole. le. (clock (cl ockwis ock wise wis e from from to top p left) e eft Canali Can ali,, $625 ali 6 ; TOM FORD FORD R , $1,2 $1,2 1,245; 45; 45 John Joh n Lobb ob , $995 995;; To Boo oott N oo New ew w Yor York k, $4 435 3 35;; Loro Lor o Pian i a, $1,2 $1,295. 1,2 ,295. 95 5
DRESS BOOTS Versatility is a key quality of a dress boot – elegant enough to wear with a suit but equally good-looking with a smart pair of jeans. These three were all made in Italy’s Le Marche region. Check out the exquisite burnishing on the cap-toe ankle boot from Harry Rosen Made in Italy (left) and on the Chelsea boot (top), a collaboration between Harry Rosen and Canadian shoe designer Christopher Bates. The sleek Tod’s ankle boot (right) sports the company’s signature pebbled sole. (left to right) Harry Rosen Made in Italy, $450; Christopher Bates for Harry Rosen, $450; Tod’s, $615.
PHOTOGRAPHY, LUIS ALBUQUERQUE; STYLING, LUIS ALBUQUERQUE, BOB HAMBLY; STYLING ASSISTANT, SHEA HURLEY, PLUTINO GROUP
Find out more about building a shoe wardrobe at harryrosen.com/askharryshoes
harry A MAGAZINE FOR MEN BY HARRY ROSEN MENSWEAR
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FALL/WINTER 2017 $5.00