harry A Magazine for Men by Harry Rosen Menswear
PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40051686 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Harry Rosen Inc., 77 Bloor Street West, Suite 1600, Toronto, ON M5S 1M2
a magazine for men by harry rosen menswear
harry fall/winter 2014 $5.00
Rock Solid
our fashion on fogo
fall/winter 2014
Contents Fall/Winter 2014
92/
ERMENEGILDO ZEGN A half-lined jacket in an understated merlot and slate grey plaid from Ermenegildo Zegna. A blend of merino wool and cashmere, the fabric is exceptionally soft to the touch. ermenegildo ZEGNA jacket, $2,395, shirt, $495, and pants, $595.
A Study in Sophistication
h
Features
Videos
Please find all our videos, including the following, at www.harryrosen.com/ h videos-f14 • What label suits you
• The proper fit of a suit • Folding a pocket square
photography, chris nicholls
Publisher Sandra Kennedy Editor James Chatto Art Directors Bob Hambly Barb Woolley Hambly & Woolley Inc. designers Barb woolley aaron rinas Producer Justine Dunk jeff broder (on location) Production Manager Sonja Kloss
Raptors GM Masai Ujiri by Gary Butler
60 60 Things a Gentleman Needs 66 World of Wonders Our buyers source the planet by Alec Scott
• How to care for your suit
Executive Publisher and CEO, harry rosen inc. Larry Rosen
54 Hope dreams
Fashion 75 ultima canada 92 A Study in Sophistication 102 In the black
Departments
27 Letter 30 Notebook 40 Ask Harry 110 112 113 114
Contributors tom Arban Gary Butler remie geoffroi antony hare Anna Kohn Jaclyn Law Markian Lozowchuk kyle metcalf Chris Nicholls Brian Sano Alec Scott Karl Wells Jessica Wong
Executive Fashion Director Jeff Farbstein Fashion Directors paul E. Smith Shannon Stewart Advertising Sales Manager Judy Solway Phone 416 935 9202 Editorial Coordinators maria delorey Meghan Janssen Public Relations Manager tim gallant Phone 416 935 9224 Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2 Phone 416 935 9200
Hambly & Woolley Inc. design Communications 121 Logan Avenue Toronto, Ontario Canada M4M 2M9 Phone 416 504 2742 Cover Photography, chris nicholls; styling, jimmy moorhouse, plutino group; Grooming, Laura Szucs, Judy Inc. Copyright 2014 Harry Rosen Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibility for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials.
Cities Services guide The world of… Edward Armah
At harry rosen, we hold your personal information in strictest confidence, In full accordance with provincial and federal privacy guidelines. for further details, access www.harryrosen.com. to opt out of further communications, e-mail us at notices@harryrosen.com or contact our privacy officer at 416 935 9221 or e-mail privacy@harryrosen.com. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Colour separations and printing provided by TC Transcontinental.
Volume 18, Issue 2 Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement 40051686 CANADIAN POSTMASTER Send address change notices and undeliverable copies to: Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2 For a change in address, please write or e-mail us at:
Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2 E-mail harry@harryrosen.com Harry magazine is printed on paper from wellmanaged forests, contains 10 percent post-consumer content and is chlorineand acid-free. Our polybags use 25 percent recycled plastic.
To the old map-makers, Fogo Island was one of the four corners of the Earth, a remote island in the cold grey Atlantic, northeast of Newfoundland.
fogo island
Today, it harbours the most talked-about luxury destination in the world – the dramatic, otherworldly structure called the Fogo Island Inn. Far more than a hotel, the inn was built as life support for the unique outport communities on the island, inspired by the local culture and at the same time sustaining it. Dominating the landscape close to the hamlet of Joe Batt’s Arm, with extraordinary views of the ocean and passing icebergs riding the Labrador current, Fogo Island Inn is like no other place in Canada. Furniture, fabrics, quilts and artifacts are all made by local
artisans. If luxury and sophistication can also be authentically homespun, this is the shrine to such a concept. Celebrating the milestone of our 60th year, it seemed like the ideal location for our fashion shoot, setting our sportswear against a background of austere natural beauty, of architecture both traditional and avantgarde, of an outport culture that is rugged and also poignantly intimate. We were honoured when the inn welcomed us. To get there, we flew to Gander, drove to Farewell, then took the ferry to Fogo Island. We reached the very edge of Canada – and found its heart.
fall/winter 2014 75
KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber. The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down filling – the perfect warmth for fall. kiton jacket, $7,995, and pants, $950.
Two extremely companionable Newfoundland dogs named Make and Break live at the Fogo Island Inn.
76 harry
U lt i ma Can ada On-figure photography by Chris Nicholls; Styling by Jimmy Moorhouse (location) and Lee Sullivan (studio), both Plutino Group; Grooming by Laura Szucs, Judy Inc; Off-figure photography by Brian Sano; Styling by Dee Connolly
U lt i ma Can ada ▼ You dress casually on the weekend; you still want to look great. It could be time to update your sportswear. Our latest collections have a dynamic attitude that answers the demands of comfort and also of style – clothes that are relaxed yet undeniably sharp.
GIORGIO ARMANI This double-breasted peacoat in ribbed navy leather is extraordinarily soft to the touch. The grey merino-wool lining is also ribbed – it almost seems to cling to your torso. Substantial and warm, it’s a unique hybrid of the peacoat and the leather jacket.
giorgio armani coat, $7,895, and pants, $1,045.
78 harry
MONCLER Moncler was a pioneer of mixed-media coats; this full-zip hoodie is another fascinating example. The front and sleeves are those of a merino-wool sweater; the back and hood are down-filled quilted nylon. Moncler hybrid jacket, $750; PYA knit, $65; Jacob CohĂŤn pants, $825.
fall/winter 2014 79
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI Inspired by the casual Bohemian elegance of Milan’s Brera quarter, Baldassari offers a stylish navy sweater jacket – an unlined, buttonup cardigan shaped like a blazer. Maurizio Baldassari cardigan, $798, shirt, $275, pants, $298, and knit tie, $110.
80 harry
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Unabashed luxury‌ This midnight blue, trimmed shearling stadium coat is as soft and warm as it looks. Lighter and less bulky than traditional shearlings, it shows a flawless attention to detail, from the removable hood and fleece-lined pockets to the bright nickel hardware and signature horn buttons. Ermenegildo Zegna coat, $7,195, knit, $845, shirt, $345, and pants, $345.
Architect Todd Saunders drew upon the Newfoundland outport tradition of building fishing stages on wooden stilts when designing the inn.
fall/winter 2014 81
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Remember when shearlings were stiff and heavy? This dashing modern version in a rich navy blue weighs astonishingly little and drapes most elegantly. The length lends versatility – it’s great over a jacket but equally appropriate with a sweater and casual pants. Brunello Cucinelli coat, $9,150, jacket, $3,895, pants, $750, and pocket square, $225. h
To see our video about Brunello Cucinelli coats, please go to
www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
82 harry
BURBERRY BRIT A removable shearling collar adds extra interest to a nylon jacket, lightly filled with down – a great piece for a chilly fall morning. The cotton flannel shirt features an exploded, monochromatic version of the famous Burberry check. burberry brit coat, $1,420, shirt, $325, and pants, $215. h
To see our video about Burberry Brit coats, please go to
www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
fall/winter 2014 83
PYA From the first full collection by Torontobased PYA’s designer, Patrick Assaraf, comes a three-button jacket in navy brushed wool. The double-faced fabric has a blue check back, visible inside the half-lined jacket and under the collar, and enough weight to let the piece double as a coat in early fall. PYA Black Label jacket, $698; Eton shirt, $275; Brax pants, $225.
84 harry
PAUL & SHARK The heavy-gauge zipper on this classic navy woollen sweater looks almost like a piece of jewellery. The vest (also available in navy) is quilted with a top-quality down-and-feather mix and has a removable hood. Paul & Shark vest, $775, knit, $875, shirt, $295, and pants, $325.
fall/winter 2014 85
POLO Ralph Lauren Inspired by vintage bomber jackets, Polo Ralph Lauren’s Farrington bomber is made in unwashed, softly burnished calf leather – exceptionally soft to the touch. Wear it with top-quality Japanese selvage denims and a grey cashmere sweater. Polo Ralph Lauren leather bomber, $1,098, knit, $198, shirt, $98, and pants, $225. h
To see our video about Polo Ralph Lauren coats, please go to
www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
86 harry
BOSS Deceptive‌ A charcoal BOSS jacket that looks fully tailored but is actually unstructured and unlined. Soft, casual and extremely comfortable, it’s the perfect way to complete a layered look. BOSS jacket, $750; Michael Kors hooded sweatshirt, $295; PYA Black Label henley, $95; AG pants,$260.
fall/winter 2014 87
BOSS and MICHAEL KORS BOSS presents a trim, down-filled vest that’s versatile enough to wear over a suit or a sweater and is ideal for travel. It’s also reversible: on one side, a grey herringbone wool blend with leather piping, on the other, quilted black nylon. A mixed-media wool-and-nylon “shirt jacket” from Michael Kors ticks all the fashionable boxes with diamond quilting and a removable gilet. BOSS vest, $595, and shirt, $205; Michael Kors knit, $295; Brax pants, $225. Michael Kors shirt jacket, $495; PYA Black Label cardigan, $345; Bugatchi shirt, $180; DL pants, $218. 88 harry
Designers are crafting premium boots these days, exploring the points where the elegant sophistication of a gentleman’s boot meets more rugged, masculine details. Clockwise from top left, John Varvatos Star USA offers a side-zip, lace-up brogue in grey suede, $350; BOSS presents a side-zip, fur-lined boot in pebble-grain leather, $625; BOSS’s sneaker-sole hybrid is deliberately rough around the edges, $395; Cole Haan’s crisper brogue boot features the exceptionally comfortable Lunar sneaker sole, $320; Modern Vintage’s dress boot is felt-lined and made in Italy, $375; To Boot New York’s lace-up in richly hued, butter-soft leather (centre) is also made in Italy, $495.
fall/winter 2014 89
fogo Zita Cobb was born and raised on Fogo Island. She left home for university at 16, ended up as CFO of a fibre-optics company and retired at 42, with more money than she knew what to do with. Then she did something extraordinary. She went back to Fogo Island. Though the
lonely rock in the ocean had a 400-year-old cultural history, its scattered, isolated outports seemed doomed when the cod fishery died in the 1990s. At first, Cobb proposed setting up university scholarships for the island’s youth, until a local woman pointed out she was merely paying young people to leave. Cobb devised a new plan to reinvigorate the unique but fastdisappearing culture in the island’s traditionally International designers collaborated with local craftspeople and artists to create all the furniture and fabrics in the inn. Some pieces seem traditional, others contemporary; they all use local materials and sustain the local cultural vernacular. This page, clockwise from top right, unique quilts are handmade by 25 local quilters; a traditional armchair designed by Ineke Hans; figurative elements on a hooked mat illustrate Fogo Island’s “seven seasons”; the inn reminds some of an ocean-going ship.
90 harry
self-reliant communities. Using $35 million of her own, with a further $9 million each from the provincial and federal governments, she created the Shorefast Foundation to promote local arts and crafts and to micro-finance initiatives; she founded Fogo Island Arts, building idiosyncratic studios where international artists could come to work; then she built the Fogo Island Inn as a hub, an employer, a gallery and an attraction for artists and tourists. Designed by Newfoundland-born, Norway-based architect Todd Saunders, the structure has a most dramatic beauty – and a uniquely local charm. Find out more at www.fogoislandinn.ca.
photography, Alex Fradkin, bob hambly, Steffen Jaggenberg, chris nicholls
Centuries of geographic isolation left the Fogo islanders brilliantly adept at making things by hand, recycling and working with the scant local materials. The snake cushion is a traditional design, knitted by hand using the tiniest scraps of yarn. Below, the inn’s library.
Above, the convenience of a fishing stage for cleaning and curing cod. Far right, traditional Newfoundland architecture “sits lightly on the land,” with fishing stages built on wooden stilt legs, not fixed foundations. Right, icebergs drift by on the Labrador current.
fall/winter 2014 91
A Study in Sophistication Look closely at the new season’s suits and jackets. We think you’ll like what you see. Patterns reference
English traditions of the past – herringbone, houndstooth, glen check, windowpane – but with understated sophistication. Colours explore a rich and varied palette with subtlety and discretion. But the real story concerns texture. Appearances can be deceptive. Soft and luxurious to the eye, with a milled finish like the substantial flannels of old, these modern fabrics are unexpectedly lightweight to the touch – supremely comfortable, whatever the season.
CANALI Soft shoulders and featherweight tailoring ensure exceptional comfort with this quarter-lined jacket in a pure-wool, charcoal-and-oxblood mélange. Details such as discreetly quilt-stitched elbow patches and surgeon’s cuffs (functioning buttons on the sleeves) provide further delight. CANALI jacket, $1,698, shirt, $285, pants, $450, and tie, $150.
92 harry
BOSS The fabric of this suit exemplifies the new season’s love of subtle pattern – it has a discreet, tonal windowpane check on dark, inky blue flecked with grey to add visual richness. The finish has the soft look of flannel but none of its weight while the contemporary silhouette isn’t too trim, an ideal modern fit for almost any man. BOSS suit, $1,350, shirt $185, and tie, $125.
fall/winter 2014 93
Z ZEGNA With the rough finish of boiled wool, this city coat works equally well over a suit or casual pants and a heavygauge sweater. Z ZEGNA coat, $1,095, suit, $1,295, and shirt, $250. h
to see our video on the proper fit of a suit, please go to
www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
94 harry
J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN A classic two-button sports jacket, fully lined, in mid-grey with a blue-andnavy check bridges your work and casual wardrobes. J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn jacket, $998; Eton shirt, $265.
fall/winter 2014 95
CANALI Classic Canali, though with a slightly trimmer fit, this suit showcases a small, subtle check in Bordeaux and blue on a mid-grey background. CANALI suit, $1,998, and tie, $160. h
to see our video on what label suits you, please go to
www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
96 harry
CANALI Finding the precise point between classic and contemporary, Canali gives this suit a slightly more natural shoulder without sacrificing its authority. The brushed wool fabric is in dark grey with a charcoal glen check and an oxblood overcheck. CANALI suit, $2,198, shirt, $285, and tie, $150. h
To see our video on how to care for a suit, please go to
www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
fall/winter 2014 97
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Tailored in grey flannel with a chocolate windowpane check, this sophisticated suit has a lighter, softer shoulder construction than most Zegna offerings. The tie is a new idea from Zegna – pure silk but with a matte finish that resembles wool. Ermenegildo Zegna suit, $2,995, shirt, $375, and tie, $200.
98 harry
BOSS A jacket in a deep blue-and-grey houndstooth looks rich and warm but the fabric is unexpectedly lightweight, suitable for all but the hottest days. BOSS jacket, $698, and shirt, $195; Hiltl pants, $295.
fall/winter 2014 99
ETRO Kean Etro’s fall 2014 collection pays tribute to traditional tailoring – his actual tailors accompanied the models down the runway at the fashion show. Hence the full lining and classical construction of the jacket. The fabric, however, is less conventional - a dramatic glen check overlaid on an abstract green-and-plum-coloured fabric stamped with a unique white floral pattern. Meanwhile, Etro’s signature paisley pattern appears as a discreet waistband on the trousers. ETRO overcoat, $2,050, jacket, $1,850, shirt, $298, pants, $550, and pocket square, $115. h
To see our video on how to fold a pocket square,
please go to www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14
100 harry
From top left, Canali, $695; Church’s, $550; To Boot New York, $375; Salvatore Ferragamo, $655; Harry Rosen, $398; Tom Ford, $2,195.
Black bounces back as an essential colour in footwear this fall, matching its prominence in clothing. Dress shoes show less emphasis on ornamentation, more on texture such as leathers with pebble or caviar grain. Cap toes have overtaken wingtips in prominence and silhouettes are a touch more substantial than they were last season.
fall/winter 2014 101
IN the Black Think of it as the parable of the prodigal son. Suddenly, this season,
the world’s top designers opened their arms and welcomed back the colour black. Black does not disappear into the background: it stands out – most dramatically. Black is not dull. Different fabrics reflect light in different ways, so even wearing black on black offers extraordinary textural richness and contrast. Black is back.
Ralph Lauren Black Label This very sharp lamb-leather biker jacket is lined with nylon filled with French duck down and has a luxurious lamb-shearling collar. Accordionquilted, leather-covered elastic panels down the back allow for ease of movement while moulding the jacket to your body. Asymmetrical pockets and a double-track zip add to the eye-catching appeal. Ralph lauren BLACK LABEL coat, $3,498, and pants, $285.
102 harry
tom ford cocktail jacket, $8,995, turtleneck, $1,295, and pants, $1,495.
TOM FORD Nothing if not dramatic, Tom Ford’s latest eye-catching one-button cocktail jacket is tailored in an extraordinary black-on-black silk-blend fabric with raised velvet flocking in a floral pattern. Ford himself puts the complete look together with a black cashmere polo neck, formal tuxedo trousers and black patent-leather shoes. Perfect for the man who intends to be noticed. fall/winter 2014 103
mackage bomber, $1,050; Michael Kors knit, $175; Hiltl pants, $265.
MACKAGE Harry Rosen worked with Mackage to create this great modern city parka. The hood is lined with black rabbit fur and ruffed with black coyote fur; like the gilet, it’s removable. Mackage now sources only the finest down for its coats, down with less weight but more fill power, providing exceptional warmth. Exclusive to Harry Rosen. 104 harry
BOSS GREEN The mixed-media sweater boasts a honeycomb nylon front and hood with sleeves, back and interior in a black cotton blend. Cool hardware and a cellphone pocket on the sleeve complete the look. boss green sweater, $445; PYA Black Label knit, $298; Paige cargo pants, $298.
fall/winter 2014 105
VERSACE Here’s a slim, almost weightless motostyle jacket in black nylon with a light down fill. The stitching on the quilting follows a Greek meander pattern while elegant leather piping trims the cuffs, pockets and placket. The black denim trousers also pay homage to motorcycling with zippered pockets, a very trim cut and contrasting, resin-coated denim panels on the thighs and sides. versace moto-jacket, $750, shirt, $475, and pants, $425.
106 harry
John Varvatos STAR USA coat, $698, hooded knit, $398, vest, $298, T-shirt, $88, and pants, $198. JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA John Varvatos loves a layered look and cuts his jackets with enough room to allow it. This double-breasted coat in black wool has black leather trim on the pockets and cuffs and under the collar, embossed metal buttons and a burgundy lining. The designer layers it over a grey herringbone woollen vest, a very soft full-zip hooded cardigan in a grey mĂŠlange and one of his graphic T-shirts. Trousers in resin-coated black denim come with either a zip or button fly.
fall/winter 2014 107
lanvin jacket, $3,545, shirt, $765, and pants, $1,195.
LANVIN Lanvin’s moto-style jacket in gorgeously supple lamb leather has zippered cuffs on the forearms like a vintage motorcycle jacket and straps at the waist to cinch it to a body-tight fit. The pants, in heavy-gauge wool, are equally well accoutred, with zips from calf to ankle, articulated stitching at the knee and elastic to ensure a snug fit at the ankle. 108 harry
Clockwise from top left, Versace, $695; BOSS, $285; Maison Martin Margiela, $685; Filling Pieces, $280; Giuseppe Zanotti, $1,150.
A pair of sneakers was just a pair of sneakers, back in the day. Modern designer sneakers are something else – collector’s items, fashion statements, even pieces of art, no longer limited to casual weekend wear. Men are having fun with them, enjoying the signature details of each designer.
fall/winter 2014 109
harry A Magazine for Men by Harry Rosen Menswear
PUBLICATIONS MAIL AGREEMENT NO. 40051686 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Harry Rosen Inc., 77 Bloor Street West, Suite 1600, Toronto, ON M5S 1M2
a magazine for men by harry rosen menswear
harry fall/winter 2014 $5.00
Rock Solid
our fashion on fogo
fall/winter 2014