harry A MAGAZINE FOR MEN BY HARRY ROSEN MENSWEAR
Match Point MILOS RAONIC HAS GAME
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WE TAKE OUR FASHION TO NEW ORLEANS
$5.00
SPRING/SUMMER 2015 $5.00
BLUES FESTIVAL . On-figure photography by CHRIS NICHOLLS, styling by JOAN BALDA, grooming by LAURA SZUCS, Judy Inc. Off-figure photography by BRIAN SANO, styling by DEE CONNOLLY.
MEN LIKE WEARING BLUE.
They look good in blue – and they know it. So do the world’s top menswear designers. Suddenly this season, blue is everywhere. Not just navy but every conceivable shade and tone from aqua to zaffre, from baby to midnight. For spring and summer, things are hot at the cool end of the spectrum. 62 HARRY
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
(opposite page) Consider this the state of the art for a dressy, purewool sports jacket – lined but lightweight, breathable and supremely comfortable, and sporting such traditional sartorial details as surgeon’s cuffs. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
jacket, $1,995, shirt, $395, and tie, $265.
CANALI
A fuchsia tie adds pop to a classic navy pinstriped suit – one of the most versatile suits a man can own. CANALI suit, $2,098, shirt, $295, and tie, $185.
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Z ZEGNA
You almost have to look twice to notice the discreet black windowpane check on this navy suit. Like the open stitching along the lapel, it adds visual richness. The modern cut is notably trim. Z ZEGNA suit, $1,195, and shirt, $265.
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CANALI
Unlined and made in a cool linen blend, Canali’s Kei jacket certainly catches the eye with its bold navy and royal blue check. Those elegant trousers are a new hybrid of the casual and the dressy – trim-cut, five-pocket pants in pure wool. CANALI jacket, $1,898, shirt, $325, pants, $450, and dress shoes, $695.
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BOSS
The lesson today: how a sports jacket can pull a very casual look together. The mid-blue linenblend fabric has a pleasing roughness to the touch and though the jacket is lined it seems to weigh hardly anything. BOSS jacket, $750, shirt, $165, and pants, $185; PRADA suede shoes, $760.
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J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN
The jacket is half-lined and features patch pockets and the unmistakable texture of a linen blend, but it’s the colour and pattern that attract attention. The outsized check in light and mid-blues with a rust windowpane calls for careful coordination. J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN
jacket, $1,098; BOSS shirt, $205;
ETON tie, $135; HILTL pants, $258.
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J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN
It’s the perfect summer suit – classically tailored and lined but still surprisingly lightweight, and made in a very versatile grey-blue fabric with a subtle pinstripe. Dress it down with a crisp white shirt and no tie. J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN
suit, $1,398; ETON shirt, $275, and tie, $135.
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ARMANI COLLEZIONI
The fabric of this sophisticated, pale turquoise jacket from Armani’s Sartorial Deco collection is as pleasing to the hand as it is to the eye. That suggestion of a sleek shimmer translates as an exceptionally soft, comfortable feel. ARMANI COLLEZIONI
jacket, $1,975, shirt, $375, tie, $175, and pants, $445.
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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA The timeless, iconic navy suit. Need we say more?
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA suit, $2,695,
shirt, $395, tie, $205, and dress shoes, $825.
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How to build your spring and summer dress shoe wardrobe? The key is to collect a range of dress shoes in many different styles, colours and textures. Lace-ups offer a variety of choices with cap, apron, wingtip or clean-toe construction; a single monk strap (refreshing after several seasons of double monk-strap dominance) and a smart slip-on dress shoe multiply the possibilities. Colours range from a spectrum of rich browns to matte or semi-sheen blacks; textures embrace smooth, full grain and integrated woven leather details. Exercise your options! (top to bottom) BOSS, $345; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $655; PRADA, $595; TO BOOT NEW YORK, $495; PAUL SMITH, $435.
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Yes, checks are still with us, where shirts are concerned. The variety still amazes – gingham, Tattersall, glen check, windowpane… All in bright, fresh spring colours. Ties can be coordinated most creatively, with stripes and neats offering a lively contrast, while a solid knit tie presents a more subtle option. (top to bottom) BOSS shirt, $165; and ETON tie, $135; J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN
shirt, $185; and ETON tie, $135;
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA shirt,
$375; and CANALI tie, $170;
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA shirt,
$395; and tie, $205;
BOSS shirt, $185; and ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
knit tie, $265.
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BOSS
The subtle mini-check of this modern, traditionally tailored suit is the perfect background to a vast range of shirts and ties, continually reinventing and refreshing the look. BOSS suit, $1,098, shirt, $205, and tie, $125.
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Our model, John Pearson (centre, at back) found The Slick Skillet Serenaders busking pre–Second World War ragtime on Royal Street.
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Photography by CHRIS NICHOLLS; styling by LEE SULLIVAN, Plutino Group; grooming by LAURA SZUCS, Judy Inc
LORO PIANA
EYEWEAR, SIRE’S EYEWEAR
An extraordinary reversible jacket – one side silk, the other butter-soft, slate blue lamb’s leather, both weatherproofed. LORO PIANA reversible leather jacket, $6,695, and pants, $525.
VERY MAN SEEKS TO DEVELOP HIS OWN PERSONAL STYLE. Where better to search than in New Orleans, where freedom of expression is the only social rule that is ever seriously enforced? It has always been a place set apart from the rest of the continent, a city where men have found they can dress and behave with more liberty than North America usually affords. The tropical heat, exotic colour and multicultural history seemed to us to provide a rich and textured backdrop for our latest sportswear collections – linens and soft jackets, lightweight leathers, bold prints and summertime blues. New Orleans’s Canadian connection goes back to the city’s roots. Louisiana was founded by a Canadian – the Sieur de la Salle – in 1682. In 1718, another Montrealer, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, founded the city itself, and his
party of settlers was followed by francophone Acadians in the 1760s, expelled from the Maritimes by the British. The name “Acadians” relaxed into “Cajuns,” and their descendants continue to make a significant contribution to the culture of the Big Easy. New Orleans welcomes modern Canadian visitors with an informal grace. We go there for the music, architecture and history, the cuisine and the cocktails, the continuous street parties of the French Quarter, for Mardi Gras, the Mississippi and the bayou… Perhaps we also visit the Katrina National Memorial Museum to remember the hurricane and its victims; maybe we explore other, less famous quarters. In these pages, renowned Canadian novelist Joseph Boyden (Three Day Road, Through Black Spruce, The Orenda), a long-time New Orleans resident, offers his own impression of this complex, historic but very contemporary city.
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CIRCOLO and ALTEA
This is the year of the soft, unstructured jacket. Left, Circolo offers a two-button version in a washed, stone-coloured abstract microcheck. Right, Altea’s casual, pure cotton-jersey blazer shows off the shirt’s intricate floral print.
(left) CIRCOLO jacket, $650; VELVET T-shirt, $140; REHASH pants, $285. (right) ALTEA jacket, $850; ETON shirt, $285. Supper clubs, pop-up restaurants and private dining events happen all over New Orleans. Our favourite is the Mosquito Supper Club, created by Effie Michot and Chef Melissa M. Martin, a delicious window into family-style Cajun cuisine and culture. What’s cooking? Could be shrimp boulettes, crawfish bisque and stuffed crabs, then pop rouge ice cream and blackberry dumplings. www.mosquitosupperclub.com. 76
HARRY
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI
So smart – a reversible bomber in lightweight brown leather and navy nylon with ribbed cuffs and hem. Wear the leather side out and pockets are side-entry; the nylon side has patch pockets. MAURIZIO BALDASSARI reversible
PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
leather bomber, $1,698, shirt, $275, and pants, $250; TOD’S suede slip-on shoes, $490. In the mid-1920s, William Faulkner lived in New Orleans at 624 Pirates Alley, writing his first novel, Soldier’s Pay, and throwing Bohemian parties. Today’s owner, Joe DeSalvo, has turned the first floor into Faulkner House Books, one of North America’s most cherished independent bookstores.
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LBM 1911 FOR HARRY ROSEN
Unstructured and unlined, this versatile summer jacket is made in a soft, breathable linen-cotton blend. The pale blue and whitewindowpane fabric looks great with jeans or dressed up with a white shirt and knit tie. LBM 1911 FOR HARRY ROSEN
jacket, $798; SUNSON shirt, $298; BOSS pants, $185.
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KITON
This soft navy blazer’s discreet micro-check pattern can anchor a vast range of different looks. The fabric is a blend of cotton, silk and cashmere, as comfortable as a favourite sweater. Casual but supremely luxurious.
EYEWEAR, SIRE’S EYEWEAR
KITON jacket, $5,850, and shirt, $695.
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KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber. The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down filling – the perfect warmth for fall. KITON jacket, $7,995,
Here’s a look that sums up three of this summer’s essential themes: a casual, exceptionally comfortable linen shirt in a bold floral print, worn over cotton fashion pants with ribbed cuffs and a dramatically tapered cut. BENSON shirt, $135; PAIGE pants, $258;
PRADA suede espadrilles, $530.
EYEWEAR, CUTLER & GROSS
and pants, $950.
BENSON
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KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber. The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down filling – the perfect warmth for fall. KITON jacket, $7,995, and pants, $950.
MONCLER
Moncler offers a nylon bomber with patch chest pockets and cotton on the cuffs and hem – the ideal casual jacket to throw on when the weather’s not too warm. MONCLER bomber, $1,015;
FERRANTE knit polo, $260;
7 FOR ALL MANKIND jeans, $248;
PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
MONCLER suede espadrilles, $535.
South of the Mississippi, in a parking lot in Westwego, we came across Baby Girl’s Seafood, a beloved source of impeccably fresh, bargain-priced seafood from the Gulf. Hungry aficionados travel for miles to buy shrimp, oysters, fish and, certainly, big fat delicious crabs.
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RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL
Mixed media is the message – exceptionally soft, lightweight goat leather on the front, a ribbed knit for the back, sleeves and collar. RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL
jacket, $1,498, henley shirt, $198, and pants, $275. An old advertisement for Emerson’s Ginger Mint Julep, painted on a wall on Decatur Street, reminds us that New Orleans may be where cocktails began – in the apothecary shops of the French Quarter. Any bartender can illustrate the theory – or visit the Museum of the American Cocktail (www.cocktailmuseum.org) for a more academic approach. 82 HARRY
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
This lined suede blazer (also available in navy) has a most contemporary cut with a modern silhouette, cutaway front and angled pockets. The master of layering, Cucinelli pairs it with a quilted nylon vest and superlightweight grey polo. Slim-cut trousers have side tabs, not belt loops. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI jacket, $5,595, vest, $1,550, polo knit, $475, pants, $895, and pocket square, $185.
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Go barefoot in these exceptionally soft, flexible, lightweight suede shoes, all designed for supreme summer comfort. Top to bottom, this TOD’S gomino driver boasts a unique leaf pattern, $575; a BOSS driver with a navy weave motif, $295; DOUCAL’S FOR HARRY ROSEN in deep cobalt suede may be the ultimate blue suede shoe, $680; another TOD’S gomino driver, with braided leather and metal ornament, $520; go to CHURCH’S for a prominent sole on a suave cerulean blue suede lace-up, $565. 84 HARRY
PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
THE COMFORT OF SUEDE
POLO RALPH LAUREN
EYEWEAR, CUTLER & GROSS
Look closely at the sports jacket – the indigo fabric has a subtle basket-weave pattern that creates a most original visual texture. White cotton chino shorts, a floral-printed poplin cotton shirt and that grey cashmere sweater loosely knotted over the shoulders complete a look that balances casual with preppy smart. jacket, $895, sweater, $398, shirt, $148, and shorts, $98.
POLO RALPH LAUREN
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VERSACE
The pants make the first impression – cotton printed with floral and Maori designs with an elasticized waist. The lined, double-zippered moto-jacket offers a masculine contrast, with its ribbed sleeves and sleek silhouette, all in butter-soft lamb leather. VERSACE jacket, $1,695, knit, $375,
pants, $695, and sneakers, $375.
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TOM FORD
Tom Ford takes a very cool approach to the notion of leather jacket and jeans. The full-zip biker jacket in denim-blue lamb leather is made for the designer’s own line of vintage-wash, straight-fit jeans. TOM FORD leather jacket, $5,995, collared shirt, $750, and pants, $950.
Jackson Square is the heart of historic New Orleans, a handsome park set between the St. Louis Cathedral, The Cabildo museum and the Mississippi. Street artists hang their works along the decorative wroughtiron fence.
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DSQUARED
Get noticed! Black graffiti script on a fluorescent orange cotton sweatshirt will do the trick. Raglan sleeves and ribbed cuffs and hem add extra interest. Ankle-length cotton dress pants complete the look. DSQUARED sweatshirt, $585, shirt, $325, and pants, $465; PRADA sneakers, $590.
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FASHION SNEAKERS
The fashion-forward man wears his statement sneakers whenever and wherever he wishes, confident that they – and he – will not pass unnoticed. Each brand has its own signature details. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI (top), for example, is known for double zippers and a degree of bling. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
(bottom) stitches the impression of his company logo, the guancino, right into the leather. ALEJANDRO INGELMO (centre) presents a black patent sneaker with an oxford closure, perfect for formal events and exclusive to Harry Rosen. (top to bottom)
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI,
$1,600; $765; ALEJANDRO INGELMO, $550; VERSACE, $575; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $860. GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI,
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GIORGIO ARMANI
This ink-blue mixed-media jacket is so light you can wear it like a shirt. The back is jersey; the front and sleeves are formed of diagonal patches of perforated leather. GIORGIO ARMANI
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jacket, $7,895.
JOHN VARVATOS
EYEWEAR, CUTLER & GROSS
(left) From John Varvatos Collection, a navy cotton cardigan with a float-stitch pattern and cotton placket looks great over seven-pocket pants in a linencotton blend. (right) From John Varvatos Star USA, this unstructured, washed, distressed blue-black linen jacket is casually distinctive over sand linen shorts. (left) JOHN VARVATOS COLLECTION cardigan, $658, T-shirt, $238, scarf, $378, pants, $398, and shoes, $248. (right) JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA jacket, $598, T-shirt, $138, scarf, $98, and shorts, $138.
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KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber. The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down filling – the perfect warmth for fall.
A “gentleman’s sneaker” is appropriate for so many casual occasions. These shoes are deliberately designed to be perfectly comfortable when worn without socks. (clockwise from top) TOD’S cobalt leather sneakers, $575; BRUNELLO CUCINELLI brown suede lace-ups, $985; TO BOOT NEW YORK’s exceptionally comfortable and convenient black slip-ons, $395; LANVIN white sneakers, $535; MONCLER black high-tops, $810; Z ZEGNA grey suede and leather sneakers, $450.
PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
KITON jacket, $7,995, and pants, $950.
GENTLEMAN’S SNEAKERS
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ETRO
Natural ramie fibre adds lustre and breathability in the cottonblend fabric used for this traditionally tailored jacket. Etro’s signature paisley is everywhere – under the collar and on the jacket’s blue lining, printed onto the pure linen shirt and as a ghostly pattern on the linen trousers. ETRO jacket, $1,498, shirt, $425,
and pants, $398; PRADA suede espadrilles, $530.
Where to stay in New Orleans? We love Soniat House, a small luxury hotel in a sedate corner of the French Quarter, occupying three lovingly restored 1830s townhouses. Peace, quiet and pampering just three blocks from Jackson Square. 1133 Chartres St., 504 522 0570, www.soniathouse.com.
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PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
B Y
J O S E P H
B O Y D E N
PHOTOGRAPHY, TK
A Bana na Republic’s Renaissance first crossed the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, the longest bridge in the world, and entered into the city of New Orleans in July 1988. I was travelling with friends from South Carolina, was a roadie for their punk rock band. We were on a tour of America, riding in a battered Chevy van and living a true hand-to-mouth existence. If shows were cancelled, which they were, we didn’t eat that day. If the van broke down, which it did, we didn’t eat that day. I recommend to anyone who is trying to lose a few pounds and is finding it difficult, to become a roadie for a punk rock band. But we knew how to have fun. We were young and alive! We were full of Jack Kerouac and full of excitement for what the next town, the next city, the next few miles would bring us. We’d gotten crappy tattoos together in L.A., we wrestled in the salt flats of Utah, we played with the Dead Kennedys in Berkeley. And then there was New Orleans. In July. Like stepping into the mouth of a panting and overheated dog. Nights a touch cooler when all the people came out. When the danger came out. My first experience in a city of trying to get used
to the sound of random gunfire. We stayed with a friend, an artist, who lived in an old mansion with 16-foot-high ceilings and a pack of dogs. He took us to Uptown blues clubs, to downtown cheap restaurants. He showed us the city, where to find happy hour prices at five in the morning. I fell in love with that place. The living, breathing history of neighbourhoods with names like Tremé, where Buddy Bolden first played a music called jazz, or the Lower Garden District, where mansions mingle with shotgun houses, or Mid-City, where a bayou wends its way through massive City Park. I fell in love easy with this place where the Mississippi River curves slow like a crescent, where the antebellum architecture, the live-oak-lined avenues, the 1940s-era streetcars clanging down St. Charles Avenue, all lead to the same place. Decadence. Even on a shoestring. Every young man’s dream. The sense of lurking danger down rough-looking blocks. New Orleans is a city so easy to fall head over heels for. Twenty-six years later and I’m still here, living now a bit more comfortably than that punk rock kid did. My wife, Amanda, and I, we live in Mid-City by Bayou St. John in a
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120-year-old converted corner grocery store along with our rescue dog, Fritz Friday. Yes, it’s a good life I’ve found in the City That Care Forgot. Almost idyllic, maybe. But the thing about New Orleans is this: just when you think you’ve got it all figured out, that you’ve found the perfect life in America’s very own banana republic, a friend gets mugged at gunpoint or the murders over a single weekend go into double digits or you hear that your former mayor has been sent to prison for 10 years for some seriously underhanded dealings while in office. Or worse. When Katrina roared onto shore back almost 10 years ago, I wasn’t the only one who feared that New Orleans had finally been dealt its death blow. Hundreds and hundreds of innocent people dead, a city’s infrastructure demolished, a nation left reeling as we stared at our underbelly, at our own self-inflicted wound, the thin flesh torn away to expose the racism and denial and poverty and inequality. How does a place come back after a disaster like that? What I found out, though, is that I sorely underestimated the resilience of one of North America’s greatest cities. After all, isn’t this the place that has survived countless devastating storms, plagues and wars? After Katrina, the citizens of my home immediately began to come back and began to rebuild, to help one another in the reconstruction. And now, almost 10 years later, I see a type of renaissance happening all around me. New Orleans is nothing if not a city of closely knit neighbourhoods where your friends are like family. Whether it’s Uptown or the French Quarter, whether it’s the Marigny or Lower Ninth, whether it’s Algiers or Pigeon Town, you watch out for each other. You arrive at the party and add your ingredient into the pot of communal gumbo. You throw your labour into helping a friend replace his roof or dig up her garden. And then you pop open a beer and sit down to eat some of the greatest food and listen to some of the greatest music in the world together. New Orleans is by no means perfect. But maybe it’s the imperfections that make this place so its own. This is the town, after all, that birthed America’s music, jazz, the hybrid of all that is best in the art form. When you come down to New Orleans to visit, it’s hard to leave. We call it getting stuck in the mud. And it’s a good mud we slop through, warm and aromatic. New Orleans is more than that, though. It’s the northernmost port of the Caribbean, a place whose history is a walking contradiction. The country’s largest slave market flourished here before the Civil War and yet it was a town where free men of colour lived in mansions beside white slave owners. It is the place where the last battle of The War of 1812 was fought, three weeks after that war had ended. It is a place that teemed with pirates and statesmen and exiled royalty and criminals and always opened its arms to the immigrants of the world, whether they were from Italy or Ireland or Haiti or Honduras or, once in a while, even from Canada. In fact, the Canadian-born Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville founded this city on the banks of the Mississippi way back in 1718, wisely listening to the local Native population to build on the high ground that didn’t flood; that particular neighbourhood is now called the Vieux Carré, also known as the French Quarter. But I get ahead of myself. As you can tell, there’s so much more to learn about this place. My suggestion is to pack a bag and make your own way down and explore this banana republic in the deep south of the United States for yourself. One thing I can certainly promise you: you won’t be disappointed you did. h
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