Eight women towards the walls of Greenland on a 3 month sailing trip to conquer a wall of Scoresby Sund.
Be the first to climb the 14 peaks above 8000m in less than 6 months. The goal? Asking brands why this world is still so sexist.
Athlete, photographer, artist. For her, ski mountaineering and trail running have in common the extreme freedom they give her.
We break trail in places worth protecting. With each step and each turn, our connection to the high country grows stronger. By building durable gear and keeping it in play for years to come, we minimize our footprint while maximizing our time in the mountains.
Photo: MATTHEW TUFTS © 2022 Patagonia, Inc.
BY DAVIDE FIORASO
PHOTO MARTINA VALMASSOI
Fun is a voluntary muscle that requires exercise. A famous sentence by anthropologist Hortense Powdermaker recalls how, at an early age, fun represents "a more effective education than school, because it appeals to emotions and not to intelligence". But over the years, unfortunately, we risk forgetting what it is, its meter fails or disappears altogether. What we have to do is simply find it again, as a cure to lift the spirit from the succession of the events, from the efforts, from the worries. And from the anxiety levels that are understandably at an all-time high.
But before doing this, it is necessary to understand what one's idea of entertainment really is, which is different from each of us and changes over the course of existence. If during our studies we looked for fun in parties with friends, over the years we have transformed this fee -
ling into something more adventurous and exploratory. Today some find it climbing mountains, others cyclin, others around a bonfire with a good beer. Although trivial, what made me reflect on this issue is a recent survey I took part in. The result involved the most disparate activities: from surfing to travelling, from dancing to singing to cooking. Surprising note: a huge number of respondents mentioned padel.
Among the many scientific evidences on how much fun is essential for our well-being, I came across the words of Michael Rucker, psychologist and behavioural scientist. In his book The Fun Habit, Rucker explains that fun, unlike happiness, is an action, something we can actually pursue. In other words, something we can strengthen, just like a muscle. It is simply a question of putting aside an endless list of use -
less chores and trying spontaneously, without preconceptions, taking the example of children and animals, because they seem to instinctively know how to have fun.
Allow yourself this little experiment for a certain period of time. Take a light-hearted approach and smile as you learn something new, no matter what the activity. Make having fun a priority: with friends, with your children, with your dog. Fuel your feel-good hormones with pleasant, even short-term occupations. Get together with people and increase your social interaction, having fun together is more appealing than any individual activity.
I do it often. To always keep my tank full of fun. The more I use this muscle, the stronger it gets.
But let’s be clear, you’ll never find me on a padel court.
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Panorama Diffusion, the well-known Italian distributor of brands such as Thule and Arva, adds Chillaz to its roster of brands. Born in the Tyrolean mountains, Chillaz is aimed at those who love life outdoors and in particular at those who practice sport climbing with an approach that is not only technical but also sustainable. Furthermore, the fit of these garments allows them to be used when training at the crag and in the gym but also in a more everyday and casual context.
Fabio Campagnolo, CEO of the Venetian company F.lli Campagnolo, has been awarded as the EY Entrepreneur of the Year Award in the Fashion & Design category. An award that was recognized for Campagnolo's ability to continuously innovate and to spread Italian excellence abroad while maintaining the link with tradition and the territory. “This company would not be what it is today without the entrepreneurial intuition of my parents who dedicated a lifetime to making F.lli Campagnolo grow and prosper, and without the commitment and passion given by all the collaborators” says Campagnolo.
In December there will be tour that will take SCARPA mountaineers around Europe to tell their adventures in various outdoor stores. Six events, six cities and six athletes, with them a special guest: Phantom 6000 HD, a boot designed for extreme mountaineering with a focus on lasting comfort for long approaches and ice climbing. Outsole in Vibram Durastep compound for maximum grip on difficult terrains, shell with WinTherm technology made from 80% recycled PET and PrimaLoft liner are just some of the features of this highly technical, warm and protective boot.
The well-known brand of textile solutions has finally announced the twelve winners of the Polartec Apex Awards 2022, a competition that celebrates brands and designers that support their products with Polartec technologies. The awarded garments were selected from hundreds of nominations related to the sport and lifestyle categories. This year the selections wanted to emphasize versatility, sustainability and the union between tradition and modernity. The brands that received the award are SCARPA, the Element X Millet collab, Moncler Grenoble, Berghaus, Haglöfs, Houdini, Indyeva, KUIU, Nonnative, Pearl Izumi, Santini and Thrudark.
Manifattura Mario Colombo decided to add to the distribution of Lacoste also the one of the brands owned by X-Technology: X-Bionic and X-Socks. For over 20 years, X-Technology has been offering innovative and high performing products completely Made in Italy, certified by 800 patents, 600 awards and more than 1200 medals won by the brand's athletes. Both Maximilian Lenk (CEO of X-Technology) and Giulio Colombo (CEO of Manifattura Mario Colombo) say they are enthusiastic about facing the challenges that this collaboration will offer.
La versione esclusiva di un classico, che riutilizza gli scarti di produzione per ridurre al minimo le emissioni di CO2 e l’impatto sull’ambiente, mantenendo inalterate prestazioni e qualità. La nuova frontiera del Made in Italy è Re-Made in Italy. Available in a limited edition of 2022 pairs.
Garmin reaches the seventh edition of its Garmin Beat Yesterday Awards, this year with more than a thousand nominations. The selection saw five final winners with impressive stories ranging from ironman to cycling, from sailing to trail running up to the passion of driving trucks. “We like to think that the spotlights on the Beat Yesterday stage never go out, that the stories continue to be told and that the protagonists carry them forward day after day, even after the says Stefano Viganò, CEO of Garmin Italy.
The well-known British brand Rab received the ISPO Award for its new Mythic G Jacket, ideal for mountaineering activities in the most extreme environments, available on the market from autumn/winter 2023. The ISPO award jury declared: "The company perfectly expresses the concept of insulation in its products. Extremely warm, light and at the same time resistant and "packable": this jacket is for mountaineers who count every gram and want all the warmth possible without being penalized by the weight.” An additional advantage for female mountaineers is certainly the specific fit for women.
Thule ambassadors Alice Linari and Lorenzo Alesi are the protagonists of the new short movie On Our Way, directed by Paolo Prosperi. The goal? Exploring natural beauty without creating a negative impact on the planet. From Munich to Lofoten Islands completely on foot or with sustainable means of transport, such as electric cars or sailboats. “For many years we have witnessed the transformation of mountains and nature due to climate change. Reducing our impact is possible today, thanks to new technologies but above all to our actions” declares Alice Linari.
The German company is officially the first partner of ITRA - International Trail Running Association. The common goal is to professionalize and promote trail running, focusing on issues such as safety in competitions, athlete health and the promotion of values such as diversity and inclusion. Dynafit is a brand made by athletes for athletes that’s why it pursues the goal of providing athletes with the best support for their most ambitious projects. “The partnership with ITRA is a decisive step for us” commented Alexander Nehls, Dynafit International Marketing Director.
Colmar's FW22 ski collection for next winter was created with a new approach: to fully enjoy every moment of the day in harmony with nature and the mountains of Alta Badia. A brand that represents and embodies the DNA from which Colmar was born: the mountain at its best, the snow, the fresh air, the excellent hospitality and the comfort of each structure, the delicious cuisine typical of that part of the world that has become, a few years ago, a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage.
Among the news introduced by Fjällräven in his Expedition Series, there’s this warm and iconic winter hat filled with high quality ethically produced down and made of 100% recycled synthetic fabric. Ideal for winter excursions in very harsh climates. Equipped with a visor and ear flaps to protect against snow and frost.
Beardedgoat is a small brand from Fayetteville (Arkansas) which is worth keeping an eye on. Part of the Northwest outfit, Camp Hoodie is a brushed fleece hoody made specifically for relaxing in the backcountry, the perfect combination of technicality and comfort. Wear points reinforced with water resistant ripstop nylon.
P OWER BANK 10.000 MAH
Metal cover, opaque neutral color, copper wire handle and a strong vintage style characteristic of Barebones Living items. This 10.000mAh version features an included LED flashlight, USB-A and USB-C output, and USB-C charging cable. Ideal for glamping environments and meeting places away from electrical outlets.
C lutch bag made with recycled materials: the TNT comes from the banners that have accompanied Emergency demonstrations over time, while the jersey on the back comes from old association shirts. Handcrafted by Parallelo Lab, an inclusive social laboratory founded in 2017 by a group of creatives.
The fleece is the flagship of CMP's production and this model is a perfect example of it. A hybrid jacket that combines the insulating properties and softness of the Highloft version with the elasticity of the Stretch Performance (positioned on the sides) to offer maximum freedom of movement. On the front, a ripstop quilting with an insulating function.
2022 brought new life to BSTN. In addition to the complete relaunch, the brand presented the Alpine Basketball collection which pays homage to its Bavarian roots and the sport from which it was born. The typical silhouette of running tank tops is taken up on this jacquard vest with zip on the chest and on the side. It is completed with a silicone patch.
Black Girl Ventures is the community founded by Omi Bell to offer African American women who want to start their own business access to resources and education. This partnership with MiiR underlines the characteristics of resilience and strength, willingness to challenge and solidarity necessary to move forward in their fight.
Keen's sneakers inspired by the world of climbing, in this version reinvented by Engineered Garments, a brand founded in 1999 by Daiki Suzuki. The one-piece upper in eco-leather adds premium details and a printed lining to the original design.
KEEN.DRY waterproof and breathable membrane.
Exclusive work vest born from the fruitful collaboration between Huckberry and Coors, the historic Brewing Company of Golden, Colorado. Ultra-strong cotton canvas designed to handle the toughest situations, soft quilted interior for extra comfort, and a corduroy collar that adds a classic style.
The latest drop in Rumpl's RAD series features Mary Carooll. The Vintage Tee graphic, proposed in the artist's ceramics, is reproduced in the brand new Cozy Hemp blanket (79% organic cotton, 21% hemp). A nostalgic style inspired by the 70s and by the graphics of his father's old tank tops.
Two iconic American brands, one historic national park. This new collaboration, born in the wild lands of Maine, is rooted in heritage and united by craftsmanship. Seven pieces inspired by the beauty and spirit of Acadia National Park, Pendleton's signature fabrics and Cole Haan's innovative designs.
From Gimme Shelter to Dramamine,Fender guitars have helped shape the most iconic video soundtracks of our time. Even today, music plays an important role in the life of every skier and snowboarder. The Giro x Fender collection was created to celebrate the connection that these two cultures share.
Make smart decisions fast. Intuitive handling and cutting-edge technology are at the heart of our avalanche equipment range. The award-winning Barryvox transceiver and wide array of UIAAcertified shovels, probes and airbag systems are always there, ensuring you’re prepared to make smart decisions fast.
Part of the special Breast Cancer Awareness collection, born from the partnership between adidas and Breast Cancer Now to raise awareness about breast cancer and to encourage people to rediscover their strength through nature. Pink details and graphic illustrations designed by athlete Veronique Sandler.
A collaboration that celebrates past, present and future of running. In fact, almost a century of history divides the origins of Karhu from those of Saysky, two brands that are now joining forces to demonstrate that it is possible to move forward in the same direction. In the huge collection, there’s this unisex running jacket ideal for the colder seasons.
The 12-function Spartan version (the multipurpose model from which it all began) in a custom edition for BSTN, an ambitious German project fueled by a passion for streetwear and sneaker culture. Available in 3 different colorways (red, black, blue), each multitool comes with a premium leather case handcrafted by Kruno Nakic.
So packable that you'll forget you have it with you. With a size of just 48cm inside its carry bag, Stowaway is the Poler camping chair characterized by the exclusive single pole system. A version with customized print designed with the friends of Rastaclat, an accessories brand that symbolizes positivity and inclusion.
Gogglesoc, the recycled microfibre cover that protects the goggle lens meets the hand of Chris Benchetler, a professional skier born on the mountains of Sierra Nevada who’s also an artist, designer and film producer. In Old Man Winter, one of his most popular works, there’s all the love he has for nature, sport and the outdoors.
Based in Boulder, Colorado, Newton Running produces shoes that seek performance. The Gravity line, the most advanced and versatile one, offers unprecedented levels of cushioning and responsiveness, thanks to the new Hytrel footbed. Adaptive Air Mesh with anatomical design available in this exclusive colorway by J.Crew, a NYC multi-brand retailer.
BY DAVIDE FIORASO
Providing an alternative, circular and sustainable solution for managing the "end of life" of footwear, introducing virtuous recycling practices as a new standard within the supply chain. This is the main goal of "Re-shoes", an initiative that sees SCARPA in the front row as coordinator of a consortium of various international companies. The project will develop over 42 months and it involves the production and marketing of a new shoe model of the Asolo brand, created through the collection, selection and recycling of used shoes.
Rossignol embraces a model of commitment and responsibility based on the new raison d’être: "Creating movements of sustainability and human potential". The goal will be to guide a strategy that allows the sporting activity to develop in an inclusive and environmentally friendly way, reconciling industrial performance with a sustainable approach, with respect for customers, employees and the entire mountain ecosystem. To support this ambition, the group announces a global investment of 50 million euros between now and 2026, and aims to make the Sallanches site the world's leading factory for eco-designed and recyclable skis.
Although in Europe there is no law requiring companies to explain the exact origin of the products, Hanwag not only declares the country in which its shoes are made but proudly certifies a 100% Made in Europe production with materials and components of European origin. In addition to guaranteeing the quality and reliability of the finished product, the choice of Hanwag has important implications from the point of view of sustainability: reducing distances allows to limit emissions and verify that the production process is actually sustainable.
Patagonia’s Milan store has just inaugurated its new permanent Repair Station. Broken zippers, fabrics with holes, buttons and rips: anyone can repair their Patagonia garments for free (and at any time) directly in the store. “After the one in Berlin, this Station is the second of its kind in Europe and helps us take responsibility for our products even after we've sold them” explains Matteo Diciomma, Patagonia Milano Store Manager. The initiative joins the others that are part of the Worn Wear program born in 2013.
The feeling of enveloping and protection, typical of Japanese Furoshiki art, returns to embrace the iconic model designed by Vibram. Portable, easy to put on, multi-use and multi-fit are the four key concepts behind this Compasso d'Oro winning shoe. The brand new Eco Free collection is distinguished by a sole in Vibram Ecostep Natural, a rubber with more than 90% natural materials. The color is made using plant pigments, while in the upper part there’s a new yarn composed of nylon and recycled polyester.
The Fabrics division of W. L. Gore & Associates announced the introduction of two Gore-Tex laminates consisting of a new ePE membrane and 100% recycled Bionic polyester fabric, made with 50% plastic waste collected in coastal communities and 50% from other municipal collections. Gore has partnered with the Bionic team to support their mission to reduce ocean plastic through community engagement by investing in their recovery and sorting facility in Cóbano, Costa Rica.
Every second, a truckload of textile products is landfilled or burned, meaning that 87% of the materials used to make clothing end up as waste. The North Face presents its first circular collection, characterized by choices designed to minimize waste. Garments that can be easily disassembled and recycled at the end of their cycle, giving priority to the idea, rather than the product, as illustrated by the "It's More Than A Jacket" campaign. Closing the loop is exactly the new Clothes The Loop program, a simple solution for recycling used clothing and footwear.
Gen Z is becoming more and more important for the market: people born between the mid1990s and early 2000s are a fascinating yet difficult audience. They are the first to have been born and raised in a totally digital age, and now they are facing challenges that weren't there in the past: they are becoming young adults tested by the pandemic, the looming spectre of climate change and a political situation rather complex on a global level. It is not surprising that the relationship that this generation has developed with the environment and with the outdoors is something powerful and, for their models of life, essential.
The passion for the mountains, clearly, is something that cuts across all generations, but Gen Z is driving consumption and above all new approaches to many aspects of life, including the outdoors. Oberalp Group (owner of Salewa, Dynafit, LaMunt, Evolv, Wild Country and Pomoca) in its seasonal convention questioned the role that these demanding and informed players are having in the outdoor world. What is their approach to the mountains, to winter sports or generally related to the outdoors? What are they looking for in the products? And what in terms of brand commitment regarding environmental and social issues? The attraction towards the mountains has grown a lot in recent years, partly thanks to social me -
dia which create the desire to emulate others and which, especially after the pandemic, have made people rediscover the beauty of going hiking in the mountains .
“The one about Gen Z is a discussion that we, as a group, have been having for some time: we thought we would take the opportunity to extend the intergenerational dialogue both between our employees and with the shopkeepers” explained Oberalp CEO Christoph Engl. “There are different approaches, such as the way to prepare yourself for a day of hiking or ski mountaineering. From maps, phone calls with friends and checking weather stations as we did years ago and still do today, we have moved onto WhatsApp groups and outdoor blogs wrote by Millennials, but now the
outdoor industry is dealing with Gen Z, who mostly use social media for inspiration and information: Instagram and TikTok in the lead. Furthermore, for them what’s most important is not achieving the goal but the experience itself, the journey that leads to the summit or the one that brings them to reach a certain number of kilometers or grade on the wall.”
However, there is a question for which Gen Z still does not have an answer: what is being done in the outdoor industry to protect the environment? Concern for the effects of climate change is a crucial aspect of their lives, which guides most of their choices, both in terms of general behavior and, clearly, also in terms of consumption. We must learn
don't leave traces on the mountain
to practice sports and do outdoor activities in a respectful way for the environment and for our mountains if we want to enjoy them for a long time. Experts have been repeating it insistently for some time, but it seems that the most receptive to the message are the youngest generations: among outdoors’ TikTokers, one of the major trends is to find green alternatives to satisfy one's desires for adventure and discovery. There are those who go sailing to the other side of the world and those who instead daily propose a storytelling about exclusively green mobility: you can take your bike in any weather condition, you just need to be fully prepared to it. But there’s more: every single outdoor adven ture is guided by a sacrosanct and immovable principle: respect for the environment that hosts us. The time we spend in the mountains must be as discreet as possible, the imperati ve is not to leave traces and, if pos sible, also eliminate those of the pe ople who preceded us and were not so attentive to it. When you practice mountain sports, a crucial aspect is to choose the right products, but that’s not always simple, and this is what Gen Z do: first they buy what they believe will be good for them on second hand market, and then they invest in a more substantial purchase only later, when they are sure of what is right for them and then, once bought, they ensure that the garment or technical equipment in question lasts as long as possible.
So what about Gen Z? The company's answer is: boh. And these three letters do not indicate indecision but are the acronym of Be Outdoor Humans: that means to be people who love the outdoors and seek sustainable answers to business models in order to enjoy outdoor activities. The outdoor industry is, by its nature, closest to environmental issues, and therefo -
re the one that is leading the way, exporting its values to other sectors: now is the time to make them clearer than ever. “We want to inspire people to go to the mountains a lot more, but only if they do it in a sustainable way. If people are destroying it, everything loses its meaning. Sustainability is not the problem, it’s the solution” Christoph Engl concludes.
This is what Gen Z do: first they buy what they believe will be good for them on second hand market, and then they invest in a more substantial purchase only later, when they are sure of what is right for them.
Trees dressed in red, splashes of snow on the rocks above yellowed meadows and obviously the Matterhorn, which with its majesty observes us from above as we reach the starting point for our two-day of discussions, mountains, ski mountaineering and lots of unexpected but very hoped snow.
Guests from all over Europe move in the corridors of Grand Hotel Cervino which opened its doors a little early, while a certain Sam Anthamatten is landing in a nearby meadow because, as he says, if he has to travel he wants to do it in the best possible way. And is there a simpler and more incredible way than taking the cable car up to the Rosa plateau and then taking off from there with a paraglider?
Even the Matterhorn guides are there, accompanied and introduced to us by the words and unmistakable tone of Hervé Barmasse. With them there are those who will have the opportunity to practice crevasse rescue and ice climbing, and those who will venture up the Breithorn.
After the due presentations, it's time to discover a new and unique Summit Series collection. In fact, starting from this fall, Niall Bouzon, Senior Brand Manager of The North Face tells us, the
company has decided to bring together all the series collections under a single range including mountaineering and winter sports. In this way it is possible to obtain maximum modularity and versatility according to the conditions and to the personal preferences. The names of the various products are taken for the base layers from specific terms of the activities, for the mid layers from the names of routes, ascents and descents, for the the outer shell layers from the names of peaks, mountains and famous places. And so Torre Egger, Pumori, Chamlang, Verbier are no longer just names of places, peaks and mountains but best friends for outdoor adventures.
We go into technical details and Konstantin Dehlinger, Product Specialist of The North Face, flew from Munich to illustrate us, with passion and pride, the exclusive technologies conceived by the research and development team
together with the athletes, transforming every problem into an innovative technology. Each layer has its own particular functionality and technology, which differs in appearance and function according to different needs. From Dotknit in contact with the skin, to the revolutionary Ventrix, up to the ultra-breathable Futurelight which will have the task of keeping us sheltered from the wind that we would have found on the Breithorn the following day.
Immersed in the white of the Plateau Rosa, Jules Pession, alpine guide of the historic local association, accompanies us towards the Breithorn on a windy morning immersed in a sea of clouds. In front of us the sky is interrupted by the silhouette of imposing peaks such as Roccia Nera, Pollux, Castor and Lyskamm, whose crossing from Eastern to Western, Jules tells us with a hint of emotion, is among one the most beautiful in the world.
It is in these optimal conditions that we can prove the effectiveness of technologies such as Dotknit, Ventrix and Futurelight. Each with its own function: the first kept us dry as we climbed, the second ensured the right warmth by maintaining continuous ventilation during our movements, and the third acted as a shell without ever making us sweat.
Once on the summit, in addition to the strong wind and the incredible panorama, Hervé also keeps us company: it is nice to see the emotion in his eyes even though he has climbed up there and climbs it practically every day. A piece of chocolate and it's time to go down since the bad weather is approaching and it reaches us just when we cross the doors of the Teodulo refuge with our soaked boots, where we will spend the afternoon and the night.
The wind turns into a blizzard as the afternoon passes and darkness falls, but The North Face team still has a surprise in store. You know what they say... "Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass but learning to dance in the rain" and so we soon find ourselves rounding off the experience with the premiere of Sam Anthamatten's movie , Nevia, wrapped up in wool blankets in the middle of the storm with a hot mulled wine in our hands. It is a movie that tells Sam as the multifaceted athlete par excellence, capable of embodying in all respects the soul of The North Face especially in this phase. An attentive mountaineer, an extreme but thoughtful freerider who weighs every single decision he makes in the mountains. Someone who knows how to hold back if his mother is waiting for him at home for dinner at the age of 15 when he had the goal of descending the east face of Matterhorn, in the same way he’s the one who agrees to postpone his personal challenge if the conditions do not allow its fulfillment because, as he says he, “mountains are not running away”.
So we will never get tired of making as many people as possible aware of this issue. That’s why we asked some questions to mountain guide Maurizio Lutzenberger to know the fundamental rules when tackling the first descents of the season. What are the biggest risks for those who want to go off piste after the first snowfalls? Certainly, from the first snowfall, the desire to put the skis on is great. Avalanche dangers, unfortunately, even with little snow, occur quite early. To trigger an avalanche is required the presence of a weak layer surmounted by one or more cohesive layers, an inclination of at least 30° and a skier who, having reached a hot spot, triggers everything. The weak layers begin to form already in the early stages of winter when, after the first snowfall, a long period of good weather with very low temperatures follows, especially on shady slopes. The still thin snowpack has very high temperature gradients inside. These favor the transformation of these layers into a particularly fragile structure. As soon as the latter are covered by a second snowfall or by wind accumu-
lation, the combination necessary for a slab avalanche is created. Translated into simpler terms: little snow does not mean less danger.
Given the current early winter conditions in the Alps, what advice would you give to ski mountaineers/freeriders? Winter, as far as rainfall is concerned, started timidly this year. There is still not much snow at high altitudes and as I have already mentioned this is not a good thing for building a reliable snowpack. The
wind also played its part in some areas, creating cohesive and reactive accumulations. In general, I advise everyone to obtain in-depth information on the structure of the snowpack and then to carefully read the avalanche bulletins which have recently achieved excellent reliability. I also recommend choosing itineraries with criticalities commensurate with the present danger situation. After a snowfall or a wind event it is important to wait a few days before attempting the steeper lines. In general, the
Although the issue of safety outdoors is increasingly discussed, still too often people are encountered off piste without the essential devices and that put themselves but also others in serious danger.
Mammut
steepest tours should be tackled when the surface is more consistent, well settled, and when the more critical weak layers are deeper. Mountains have their times and these must be respected. Steeper descents are for the spring season, now enjoy the powder on the less steep slopes. Snow is a very complex element in constant evolution and difficult to interpret. It gives incredible emotions but it severely punishes our mistakes. I think the magic formula for safety could be this: knowledge of the subject, fear of the
it reviewed at least every 3 years. It is also absolutely advisable to periodically update the software which usually improves its stability and reliability in the presence of interference. Although easy and intuitive to use, I still strongly recommend that you practice using them often by occasionally simulating an avalanche accident. Failing to draw perfect lines in the snow is not a serious matter, but failing to carry out a search for a buried partner is!
What is the absolute first thing to do in the event of an avalanche?
Avalanche are fortunately rare events. Precisely for this reason, however, we do not have sufficient opportunities to prepare ourselves to react to this type of emergency. Having the safety equipment (A.R.T.Va, shovel and probe), a well-established leadership and an good discipline of handling situations are the main prerogatives for a rapid and effective self-rescue.
Before starting the research procedures, I strongly recommend that you:
• Make sure that there is no danger for you and other survivors (no second avalanche and/or fall).
• Focus and memorize the partner's point of impact. This is possible only if the slope is traveled one at a time.
• Switch all the devices you have to "receive" mode. Even those who don't actively seek.
imponderable and, last but not least, a certain amount of luck. These three elements are inseparable. It would be a simple formula… Too bad you never know the correct dosages. However, don't bet too much on luck!
How often is it appropriate to review our A.R.T.Va? Research devices, commonly called A.R.T.Va., have reached a high level of reliability and efficiency. In general, the expiry date of the device is indicated by the manufacturer, but it is still advisable to have
• In any case, ask for the intervention of rescuers giving them precise information especially regarding your position.
Avalanche dangers, unfortunately, even with little snow, occur quite early. To trigger an avalanche is required the presence of a weak layer surmounted by one or more cohesive layers,
BY LISA MISCONEL
For years Columbia has been carrying out research and innovations that are able to always guarantee maximum performance. After black dots, silver tri-stars and metallic dots, now come the gold dots of OmniHeat Infinity, the result of more than 10 years of technological innovations and the maximum evolution of all the previous ones.
From NASA to the outdoors
That's right, this technology is in spired by the one the isothermal blankets used by NASA in space, where temperatures are decidedly rigid and maintaining body heat is essential over long periods of time. But there’s more, the thermal blanket is often the athletes' salvation before and after the race in harsh climates, as well as when it is used during rescue at high altitudes.
A technology capable of redefining the "gold standard in warmth", a play on words relating to its aesthetics that encompasses incredible performance. The inner lining of the technology is equipped with metallic gold dots capable of reflecting body heat arranged in such a way that the space between them offers all the necessary breathability, without however sacrificing comfort. Thanks to its patented design with more gold dots used, Omni-Heat Infinity is able to reflect 40% more body heat than previous technologies.
ni-Heat 3D and Omni-Heat Black Dot. Omni-Heat Infinity is present in many of the brand's garments: from street and outdoor down jackets to winter sports jackets, from footwear to accessories and, unlike rigid thermal blankets, it offers all the comfort you are looking for to face the winter. Comfort and function are combined with the style of products that are well suited to various outdoor activities. The technology is clearly visible inside the garments and gives an extraterrestrial look every time the zip is opened.
by NASA in space, where temperatures are decidedly rigid and maintaining body heat is essential over long periods of time.BY LISA MISCONEL
No one believed in his return yet Adrien Theaux returned to racing after a terrible accident that seemed to have destroyed his career.
Giant slalom: Adrien Theaux discovered and refined very early his sensitivity and passion for the disciplines based on speed: his debut in the World Cup in the Giant Slalom category dates back to 2004, and then placed himself, during the same year, in the top ten of the downhill category of Lake Louise, Canada. When it comes to to go fast the French skier and Colmar ambassador is among the best in the world. He also proved it in 2015, when he took home one bronze medal in the Super-G category at the World Championships. If you have this symbiotic relationship with the speed, and for most of your days you are launched at 80 kilometers per hour with wearing just a weightless race suit, maybe an impact before or after you put it in account, but no one, I think, is ready to count on almost crashing completely before an Olympics that could be the last of his career. This is exactly what happened to Theaux in Copper Mountain, Colorado during a Super G training.
“It was November 15th 2021 and I was doing a Super-G session, I was a bit tired, but no big deal. We were close to the opening season of the World Cup and in the previous weeks and days my ski feeling was good, so I have thought about doing my first descent exactly as if it were a race. I pushed so much, I skied
well. It's in the last stretch, in the steep part, that I made a little mistake: I fell on the inside ski and got straight up again, but the ski was pushing too much and it was not possible for me to turn or brake, so I ended up straight away on the nets: I crossed three rows of nets and then crashed into the trees.” A little mistake that the impact of a tornado had on Adrien's body: “I broke a leg, on the wrong side, the arm was also broken, as was the my side, and I had a large cut on the thigh, caused by a tree branch.” An immense pain comparable only to what an athlete can feel in the face of the possible final word towards his own path as an athlete.
“My first thought was about my career, it was over. I know other athletes who have had the same leg problem, sometimes from accidents so there's no turning back. It was terrible, I didn't want to end my career like that and, as if that weren't enough, immediately afterwards I thought about the Olympics, Beijing 2022, which would have been held the following year. It was over, my dreams were gone and that really tore my heart out, it was a difficult time both physically, for the pain, and mentally. It was tough giving up the Olympics, not being able to run to defend my chances, but being able to just watch the race. But it's part of the game, we practice a tough sport and we know
Consequences, however, in the case of Theux did collide with media predictions, the final word associated with his name as a verdict: such an accident at the age of 37 is not a small variable for an athlete. However, Adrien showed the strength of a "I did not know what was going to happen, but I had one thing on my mind, to get back on skis. It was too much hard to watch the guys sitting on the sofa. And then I love my sport madly, so my goal has always been to go back on track, but I didn't know if that would be it possible. I never gave up though: I had a really bad time, it was hard, with ups and downs during which some sponsors dumped me, but I worked hard with my goal firmly in mind and, step by step, I succeeded. I wanted prove it wasn't over for me: I'm lucky to be able to do something I love and the my plan is to continue competing at the best possible level, having fun and with joy". As we write this article Theux has just scored a seventh place during training for the downhill World Cup in Val Gardena: a decidedly remarkable return to the track, which demonstrates how much grit this athlete has: what makes a sportsman a champion in fact goes beyond the results, beyond the podium and the medals. Adrien Theux has those in his palmarès, but it is to be a champion that he demonstrated with the fortitude that led him, now at the age of 38, to return to racing after a terri-
I never gave up though: I had a really bad time, it was hard, with ups and downs during which some sponsors dumped me, but I worked hard with my goal firmly in mind and, step by step, I succeeded.
Since 2008, Picture has worked to reduce its impact on the environment, as their mission is to fight climate change through a passion for board sports and the great outdoors. The people behind the brand are surfers, climbers, hikers, bikers, skiers. Just in one word: adventurers.
And it is their passion for the outdoors that drives their need to make a diffe rence. A commitment to sustainability and transparency that always been the foundation of the brand. So, by sour cing materials and using processes that reduce their impact on the envi ronment, they create more sustainable products. This is why all Picture pieces are a minimum average 50% recycled, bio-sourced, or organic. However, there is always room for improvement. And Picture continues working to find more solutions to reduce their dependence on fossil fuels.
Other key aspects of sustainability are the durability and lifecycle of a product. Which is why Picture designs products to last, as the product you already own is the most environmentally friendly option. However, things do wear with time. So, Picture offers a lifetime repair warranty for it garments, ensuring you get the most from your gear.
Instead of systematically making exchanges, Picture prefer to repair your outdoors clothes whenever they can. To provide this service, they have worked with repair centers since Pi-
cture started in 2008. But there’s more, until 2021 Picture has only applied the 2-year warranty required by law (France), putting the consumers in contact with their repair centres after it expires. With the Lifetime repair warranty, instead, consumers will no longer need to worry about this expiration date. Throughout the life of the garment, Picture will repair it in its centres that are now located in Germany, Denmark, Portugal, France, Switzerland, Scotland, UK, Canada, USA, Russia, China, Australia, Argentina and New Zealand. At its launch in 2021, 46 garments have been repaired in Picture’s main workshops while in 2022, with the reopening of stations around the world, Picture saved 4 times as many: 193 items (including 140 jackets) just in 2022. But there’s more, repair requests have increased of +133% between 2021 and 2022, a
clear sign that repairing instead of exchanging becomes normality. Repairs increase a product’s longevity, diminishing its overall impact on the environment and more and more people are becoming aware of the positive impact that this simple action could have on the outdoors.
Up to date Picture is currently planning to expand its network of repair centres to make sure that customers get an easy access depending on when they live. This project fits into Picture’s overall approach to conservation: reducing energy needs and effecting change in consumption patterns.
We had to opportunity to share a few words with Florian Palluel, Sustainability Manager at Picture, to learn more about the brand’s commitment to the sustainability and durability of its products.
Where did the idea to offer a lifetime repair warranty come from? Instead of systematically making exchanges, we prefer to repair whenever we can. To provide this service, we have worked with repair centers since Picture started in 2008. The lifetime repair warranty introduced in 2020 was a natural move for us to go one step further.
Second hand and repaired clothes are becoming a bigger and bigger thing. Do you think that’s because of a growing awareness from customers about the issue of sustainability? It's hard to say. When it comes to repair clothes, I would say yes, because there is a direct link with durability and sobriety: you avoid a new purchase. Second hand is also a very good consumption model, but is mainly driven by economic choices. Also, I see a potential rebound effect with second hand: when you know
that it will be very easy to sell second hand, you might be encourage to buy new in the first place. That's why we see many new items on Vinted for example, never worn or worn once. So sobriety should also be key when it comes to buy second hand.
Do you think it's an ongoing trend that involves only younger generations? And if that’s the case, how to approach a wider audience? Not only the younger generation, but mainly this one yes. However, I never worked on how to approach a wider audience, except through education and training.
Again in terms of sustainability, why is it better to repair a garment instead of buying a new one? What are the benefits in terms of energy savings and reduction of the impact that the production and commercialization of a new product has on the environment? Doubling
the lifespan of a product avoids greenhouse gas emissions (around 44%, Bédat, 2021) because one or more purchases are avoided during this period. And of course, when there is purchase, there has been manufacturing in the first place. Every step in the manufacturing process requires electricity, and generating the electricity used to power machines is the main cause of carbon emissions in the textile industry. This lifetime repair warranty project fits into our overall approach to conservation: reducing our energy needs and effecting change in consumption patterns. At Picture, we know that we have a role to play so that you can make your clothes last as long as possible.
Are you planning to expand your network of repair stations around the world? Yes, we are working on it! At the moment, we work with 16 repair centers all over the world.
Ride, Protect & Share : these three words represent the essence of who Picture is: a snowboard, ski, surf, and outdoor clothing brand who, while not taking itself too seriously, still wants to effect change.
Technical, lightweight & ergonomic products, dedicated to backcountry touring.
Aligned with Picture’s community, its new Freetouring line gathers everything that defines the brand: riding off tracks, drawing lines with your friends, exploring local outdoors while always promoting sustainable solutions in everyday life. Looking for peaceful playgrounds, fresh powder and pushing out your boundaries, you’ll find a complete range of jackets & pants featuring Picture’s most performant technologies.
Distribuito da BOARDCORE S.R.L. info@boardcore.it www.boardcore.it
After a first decade in which expert sled dog drivers competed in a race similar to the one seen in Alaska, Polar was transformed into an event for ordinary people with the desire to challenge themselves by tackling the wild nature of the Arctic Circle.
BY LISA MISCONEL
The story of a race that became an adventure
It all began in the early 90s, when Åke Nordin, founder of the Swedish outdoor brand, participated as a spectator in the legendary Iditarod Race, the most important sled dog competition in Alaska, remaining fascinated by its course and by the participants. One of these was Kenth Fjellborg, one of the best known Swedish sled dog drivers and it is from the encounter with him that Åke had the idea of bringing the format of that race to his homeland as well. After a first decade in which expert sled dog drivers competed in a race similar to the one seen in Alaska, Polar was transformed into an event
for ordinary people with the desire to challenge themselves by tackling the wild nature of the Arctic Circle. With the right support, equipment and mindset, Fjällräven created one of the most unique and inclusive events in the world.
Before being able to face 300km immersed in wild and unspoiled nature, it is necessary that the participants learn all the essential survival techniques that will be useful and in some cases indispensable during the expedition. This will happen right in Swedish Lapland in Jukkasjärvi,
17km from Kiruna where their adventure will start, but not before meeting each of their own team of dogs with whom to establish a real relationship of interdependence for the following 6 days. Heading north, crossing barren Lappish tundra, frozen lakes and mountain forests in remote places like Sevujärvi, Kattuvuoma, Råstojaure, even passing one of the largest permafrost areas in Europe, Pälstsa. An adventure in close contact with the dogs where it will be necessary to adapt to natural changes, with temperatures down to 30° below zero, and go on independently by setting up camps and cooking outdoors, always being able to count on the support of the Fjällräven guides and experts. After five nights, lit only by endless stars and warmed by fire and emotion, they will reach the borders of the Norwegian fjords at Signaldalen.
After the forced stop caused by the pandemic, Fjällräven Polar returns with a new route, and it’s useless to say that the number of candidates from past years has increased dramatically with more than 14,000 outdoor enthusiasts from all corners of the world looking for adventure, nature and strong emotions, willing to play all their cards to become part of the great 20. The selections, with a completely new method, took place from October 24 to November 13 and the names of the future members of the Fjällräven Polar 23 expedition, which will take place from March 30 to April 5 2023, have been announced last December 2nd. In short, we can only look forward to the end of winter to find out how this one-of-a-kind adventure will go and, who knows, maybe think about a future application for next edition!
BY LISA MISCONEL
BY CHIARA GUGLIELMINA LOCATION MONTE ROSA
We are photographers, journalists and outdoor enthusiasts, but first and foremost we are mountaineers. People say we are introverse, stubborn, closed-minded. They say we are lonely, instinctive, often taciturn people who share few words. There are many stories told about mountain and its people. Moncler was born in 1952 in Monestier de Clermont, a small village near Grenoble, not far from the highest peak in Europe, Mont Blanc.
It was inevitable that a relationship between the two would be formed.
We all know the word “Moncler”, but perhaps not everyone knows the story that sanctioned its birth. Do you remember those mountaineers I mentioned a few lines above, those tough, humble but proud men? The story of one of the most recognized fashion brands in the world was born at the foot of the mountain: visionary ideas from mountain people, for mountain people. The very origin of the name comes from the abbreviation of that small village, in that modest small mountain factory of Monestier de Clermont.
If your goal is to climb a peak, starting with humble intentions is the secret for not failing after the first few meters of elevation gain. Moncler down jackets appeared for the first time on the shoulders of the workers of that small mountain factory. Their goal? Shelter from the cold, right from the start. It was then mountaineer Lionel Terray who first recognized, among those down resting on his warm shoulders, the potential of a specialist line for more severe excursions on those mountains that towered over everything outside the factory. No one, not even them, could have imagined that the development of the first padded sleeping bags, together with tents with a telescopic structure, could have taken them up to the then unclimbed summit of K2. Today we are the same mountaineers of the past, with our pride and our stubbornness. And the needs are the same too: to go to the mountains sheltered from the cold. Moncler knows this, and it seems to know us well too by now. It’s the calendar that tends to mark, with the last weeks of November, the arrival of the ski season. This year, perhaps as in 1952, it was the snow that did it. On Monte Rosa, at an altitude of 3000 metres, huge, heavy flakes and stormy winds hit the slope on which I had planned to test and shoot the new products from the now well-known Moncler Grenoble line. The only slope opened that day was surrounded by fog and saw ice slab alternating with fresh snowdrifts. The resort
has done everything possible but the adverse weather conditions have complicated things for many people. It was enough for us to change plans. From the large windows at the arrival of the cable car that leads to Passo dei Salati you can usually enjoy a breathtaking view of some of the most beautiful peaks of the entire massif. That day only an absolute white could be seen, air swirling without direction and constantly moving patterns on the snowpack near the rock face that marks the beginning of the famous freeride line called Balma. In that enlivened mantle amidst the gusts of storm, you can glimpse a short but viable ascent route with skins. Why not? “Let’s put to test the products of that small factory, even in the most severe conditions.” I thought. A few hours later we returned to the cafe completely dry and happy. We didn't talk much about it so as not to contradict our reputation of being taciturn, but everyone ordered a beer smiling. While the guys enjoyed a well-deserved break at the refuge, I put away the garments with care. I repeat in case it wasn't clear: we are mountaineers, we like to stay dry but we are not fashion experts. We are, however, as good introverts, excellent observers. I can tell you that, when picking up the garments, I didn't notice anything that Moncler could envy to any other brand of the sector. This year's collection also marries technical skill and innovative workmanship by combining them with a colorful palette, bold silhouettes and casual features. In these garments, the right attention has been paid to any skier, from the extreme freerider to the après ski lover.
A last figurative pat on the padded shoulders of Moncler who this year announced that it will eliminate fur from all its collections. The materials used, already in this collection, have a low environmental impact and we can see that in the use of organic cotton and sustainable down. In short, from us lonely mountain people, both thumbs up.
PHOTO MATTEO PAVANA & MAURIZIO MARASSI
There is a photo of Sara in which she shyly covers her face with a large green leaf. It is three big palms long and at least two wide. It is beautiful and symmetrical and it’s green like a forest apart from its thick vein, which divides it from the petiole to the tip and branches out in lighter shades. The leaf completes Sara, but when she moves it from her, her delicacy explodes. "Wow, you're beautiful." I thought the first time I saw her. I didn't say it out loud because precious, rare thoughts must be kept secret. There are things in life that need to be said, others written. And her voice doesn't do justice to a gentle touch like hers, but words on printed paper remain. Smiling face and fine features like her drawings. Her eyes speak of her goodness, her gestures, restrained but precise, speak of her strength.
If it is true that "strong are those that treat others with delicacy" then Sara is powerful.
I could describe her work for hours but there’s no need, it speaks for itself. Also, my job should be to tell you who she is and what she does. Therefore, in case some of you didn’t understand the strength of her art already in the first paragraph, I’ll try to summarize it
in a more concrete way (which in this case is the worst of choices) what she does.
First of all, it must be said that Sara is an artist. And like all great artists, this impulse of hers is "something she's carried inside since she was little" she says and "something she's carried inside since birth" I say. As is her bond with nature. To make it simple I could tell you that Sara draws. But that wouldn't be true because she's an artist. And these two things are different issues. Sara is above all a hard worker, who in the midst of all these lines has also managed to fit a full-time job, Designer for Wild Country, a well-known climbing brand. From a human point of view, however, Sara expresses herself, and drawing is a beautiful consequence of this, but she could also become something else. What I think I have understood is that in the final composition of her works, the finished painting does not count so much, but rather the lines that allowed her to express herself, arriving at that single definitive drawing, chosen among infinite possible variations. From a technique point of view however, if I have to speak as graphic designer and photographer, I’m astonished by her talent. Realizing a good composition when shooting, especially in the
mountains where the elements are in constant motion, is difficult. Thinking of illustrating a mountain photo, already composed and taken by a third person (the author), requires superior technical skills.
And before telling you about the project in collaboration with Cober aimed at raising awareness and informing on the issue of the melting of glaciers, allow me to open a parenthesis related to the powerful force I mentioned a few lines ago. If you are reading The Pill you are probably a runner, a skier, a cyclist, a hiker or something else and you have certainly learned, in your years in the mountains, to fully understand the meaning of distances. Last July Sara drew her lines along the 100m finish line of the Dolomites Marathon. Technique: chalk on asphalt. 100 meters are those run by Bolt in 9’'58, she drew every thousandth of that time. 100 meters mean at least three pitches on the wall. 100 meters in altitude can influence, and greatly, the arrival or otherwise at the summit. 100 meters are a lot.
I saw the video taken during her drawing performance. A slender, agile and delicate figure like her plants that moves between ephemeral lines, destined to disappear. In the five hours it took her to complete the picture,
until every meter was covered, she didn't just draw. I’m saying it again. Sara expressed herself in that infinite space-time of hers. And I felt something. Not just her hands move, her whole body moves. A delicate dance of which no trace will remain. Essential lines taken away, one after the other, by the passage of cyclists. Smudged lines, eventually erased, yet eternal.
(And I know some of you are thinking I'm exaggerating. But, either you're reading the wrong magazine, or you haven't seen the video, or you don't know Sara. Either way, you could and should put a patch on it.)
It’s not so different from those who draw their traces on the mountains.
*Herbarium is the project from which it all started, not by chance, "herbarium", which probably derives from the ancient Persian word "asparag" means, precisely, sprout. But her art, like her plants, evolved further. I find it such a simple concept, the one Sara is gently screaming, that I feel embarrassed for not understanding it sooner. You need to have faith in the sprouts, tiny although capable of overcoming harsh winters. Microscopic signs of life capable of growing huge trees under which, tomorrow, rest. Origin of plants with
gigantic green leaves like the forest, witnesses of a miracle, alive to let the plant live or, as Sara likes, useful for shyly covering her face.
To tell you about the collaboration with Cober (manufacturer of poles for outdoor activities) it is right that you know that the brand, since its origins, has stood out for its commitment to choices that were sustainable for the whole environment and, in particular, for the mountain one. Taking into account that Cober's debut dates back to seventy years ago, defining it as a visionary brand seems to me the minimum.
The three t-shirts in organic cotton and handcrafted screen printing, the result of the successful collaboration between Cober and Sara, are part of the *herbarium x Cober capsule collection created within "The Art of Skiing", a project developed by the company itself with the aim of strengthening the link between mountains, sport and art. The detainees of the Lorusso Cotugno prison in Turin worked on the packaging of the garments. An extra attention that demonstrates, once again, the brand's concern for social and environmental issues, as well as the interest in promoting ethical fashion. The lines Sara drew on that virgin
cotton depict three endangered species: Cardamine resedifolia L., Minuartia sedoides L., Gnaphalium supinum L.
Once again Sara did what she does best: drawing lines. This time she made them germinate on the shots of Maurizio Marassi, an exceptional photographer and athlete. I didn't think it was possible to improve certain images and yet it seems that Sara has added something to the photographer's vision, lightening it. Inserting to remove. Completing the work. How she does it remains a mystery. And that’s ok.
Since her lines are not outlined by finite points, the project has evolved as expected. The ramifications of her plants ended up taking root up to the Trento Film Festival, in an exhibition organized and curated in collaboration with photographer Matteo Pavana and researcher Gianalberto Losapio.
Neither Sara nor Matteo are guys capable of doing things without meaning. They didn't draw random lines on beautiful pictures, they dug and wondered because they are some of those strange people who still know how to ask questions. A famous guy once
said that “The problem with philosophers and artists is that they ask questions that most of the world doesn't understand the answers to.” Personally I don't find it a big problem. Their investigation shows how the pioneer species follow the glaciers in their retreat, highlighting how once these disappear, the diversity of plant species also decrease. And up to 22% of the 118 species analyzed could disappear forever, locally or everywhere. That's why “The Eco Of Glaciers” is the name of the collection in collaboration with Cober. “Eco” not “reverb” or “rumble”, the word chosen means echo. Like the reflection of a sound that returns, evocative of the lament of the glaciers during the mourning of the end: the definitive melting. A cry for help to all humanity.
To all these printed images, masterpieces that frame these words (or maybe the opposite), I don't want to add anything else. Sara's lines sprout from Maurizio and Matteo's photographs to tell the story of plant species that could become extinct together with the glaciers. But I repeat, they SPROUT, and by now we all know that if life starts again, it will from those microscopic miracles.
In the five hours it took her to complete the picture, until every meter was covered, she didn't just draw. I’m saying it again. Sara expressed herself in that infinite space-time of hers. And I felt something. Not just her hands move, her whole body moves. A delicate dance of which no trace will remain. Essential lines taken away, one after the other, by the passage of cyclists. Smudged lines, eventually erased, yet eternal.
PHOTOS FABIAN BODET
TEXT ILARIA CHIAVACCI
Excelling on skis, whether it's a descent or an ascent, hasn't stopped Yannick Boissenot from also excelling behind the lens, whether it's a camera or a video camera. Over a thousand meters above sea level, Yannick is at home in Chamonix on Mont Blanc and portrays it as one
could portray one member of his own family. Being at home on the highest and most majestic mountain in Western Europe, however, does not make it immune to the charm of ever new challenges and, at the age of thirty-eight, Yannick has achieved another breathtaking adventure where, this time, he has combined alpine ski and paragliding. The search for new routes is Yannick's driving force, so preparation is essential: this kind of missions start in fact months in advance. Even before the end of the summer, the ski mountaineer and photographer began to study the possible routes
Yannick was not satisfied with being both a skiing star and an excellent photographer and filmmaker: he had to take up paragliding.
to follow and to put together the equipment he would need: when combining two very different disciplines, alpine ski and paragliding, it is essential be prepared to face weather conditions that can change very suddenly, so what Yannick brings with him is always studied in detail. For missions of this kind, a crucial aspect is lightness: that’s why the ski mountaineer has been collaborating with the Salewa production team for some years, which has a line designed and created on the needs of those who practice alpine ski and which debuted on the market this autumn/winter 22/23.
Alpine skiing and paragliding: what led you to put together such a challenge combining these two activities ? In the last twelve years I have achieved undertakings on the Mont Blanc massif and accompanied expeditions all over the world: Peru, Pakistan, India, Japan and Alaska, always on skis and always on very difficult routes. I've always had a weak point for extreme skiing, especially for very steep and exposed lines. That love for extreme skiing remains, but today I'm a father of two, which means I pay a little less attention to my projects in the mountains. However, the com-
bination of paragliding and skiing is a new challenge for me, which gives me as much pleasure and satisfaction as extreme skiing and which fits better into my current life.
When did you get into paragliding? After the lockdown, in 2020. I don't know why, but after being deprived of my freedom I felt the need to fly. In addition, global warming is having an ever greater impact on our environment and, in the long run, paragliding could become increasingly practical, if not essential, to reach good altitude lines and then also to return home. This would
save me long descents on foot, if you want to see it from a conservative point of view it also prevents me from straining my knees.
Which of the two disciplines do you love the most? Skiing has been my passion since I was a child: I love the research part and then the pleasure of tracing new lines on powder. Paragliding is something new to me, I've only been flying for two years and I still have a lot to learn. It's something different, but after a good flight I feel the same satisfaction as after a day of skiing.
Can you tell us about this undertaking? The idea was to take off from Aiguille du Midi and then land at the base of the face, start the climb and finally ski. After finishing the descent ideally I should have taken off again with the paraglider and then finished the day with a landing in the backyard. So I set off with a first flying attempt towards the Periades, where, however, there was a very strong westerly wind, with a speed that reached 25 mph at an altitude of 11,800, which prevented me from taking off. I therefore had to reroute the start at 11,150 feet, so I was able to cross Vallée
Blanche and land a few hundred meters below the take-off point, in an untouched couloir with perfect snow conditions which allowed me to successfully complete this first test. I waited a long time, hoping for a window of weather with good conditions that would allow me to start from Aiguille du Midi and ski the north face of Dome du Gouter, at 14,120 feet. The combination of a very dry winter like I've never seen in my entire life and wind conditions too demanding for my level of paragliding made me give up. The mountains will be there again next year, at least I hope, so I have
decided to prioritize safety during this project as the paragliding part is still relatively a new territory for me.
How do you prepare for such a challenge? The fundamental part is the observation, which already begins in summer, when the mountains are not yet covered by snow, then it goes on during the fall, when the first snowfalls begin, and ends up in winter: it is essential to be on site as often as possible to understand the conditions. This in general, since I have now also included paragliding in my adventures,
preparation and research need to be even more meticulous: in fact, I have to find the right areas for both take-off and landing to able, then, to reach my destination on skis.
Since I have now also included paragliding in my adventures, preparation and research need to be even more meticulous: in fact, I have to find the right areas for both take-off and landing to able, then, to reach my destination on skis.
BY DENIS PICCOLO PHOTOS MATTEO PAVANA
Who saw “Bosca” during races, remembered it very well. That look, tense nerves and that desire to win. With legs and arms that push and the heart pumping hard, up to the last metre. And you that are watching this scene can almost feel it all this energy. It makes you want to grab your skis and go, up and down like he does when he's training. But then it occurs to you that you haven't won something like three World Cups. And two golds, five silvers and a bronze medal at the World Championships. And the enthusiasm fades a bit, and all you have to do is dream…
Michele Boscacci was born in 1990 in Valtellina. Mom and dad, both from Albosaggia (Sondrio), together with his grandfather, passed on to him the passion for sport and the mountains. Indeed for the sport "done in the mountains". He is currently an athlete of the Italian ski mountaineering team and competes for the Army Sports Center. Because of his results some important brands in the sector, such as La Sportiva, decided to link their names to his figure. Son of the ski mountaineer Graziano Boscacci, he grew up practicing sports in the Polisportiva Albosaggia. It is often difficult for a "child of art" to get out of the shadow cone, but he has been able to go further. He won the general classification of the World Cups 2016, 2018 and 2022. At the World Championships, between 2013 and 2019, he lined up 2 gold, 5 silvers and a bronze medal.
Michele, how would you comment your last "stellar" competitive season? It certainly went well. I didn't think, at 32, I'd be able to do an entire season at the highest levels. I faced it with a step by step philosophy, and precisely step by step, race after race, I realized that I continued to feel good and maintain (which is not a given for an athlete who competes at this level, ed) my physical shape. Among the results that have given me the greatest satisfaction, in addition to the World Cup of course, also the victories at the Pierra Menta and at the Sellaronda Skimarathon. After a season like this it would be nice to repeat myself, but I know it won't be easy.
You grew up with the influence of your father, who was also a champion, and of your grandfather. But when did you begin to understand that ski mountaineering could become your profession? As a child, when my grandfather took me to my father's races and often towed me with a rope (I was only 5 or 6 years old) to see him descend from a more beautiful and panoramic point. In the Albosaggia Polisportiva. At the time we were something like 3 or 4 registered kids and ski mountaineering was really a niche sport. I started racing at a very young age and I loved attending races. With the excuse that "I was Graziano's son" I sometimes had the opportunity to exchange a few words even with older athletes who otherwise I would not have approached. They often
Because behind the results of a champion there are commitment, passion, determination and perseverance. A lot of training (in addition to talent) which also leaves room for a daily life made up of family and love for one's land.
asked me how he was and then when we parted they said Say hello to dad. It was like this. In 2008 I joined the junior national team and from there it was a continuous growth.
If you would not have become an athlete, what other future would you have imagined for yourself? My dad and grandfather have a carpentry. I think I would have worked in the family business. Which I did until I was 22-23, until I became a professional ski mountaineer.
We know you also own some animals… That’s curious! That’s right, I have a barn with about twenty Bruna Alpina cows. Since I was a child I was fascinated by shepherds. My great-grandparents had some animals and often, in the time I spent with them, they told me about the mountain pastures. Perhaps, in doing so, they have handed down the passion to me. A dream that remained in the drawer until, already in the national team, I was able to buy two calves, which over time became adults. It all started from there.
You married Alba De Silvestro, your national team mate, in September 2021. How is life when even your partner is an athlete? Compared to other couples we spend much more time together. We wake up together, go to training and come back together. I don't find there are any "cons" in sharing so much, in fact there are only pros: for example, she stimulates me in training.
What is the worst defect of Michele athlete and which is the one of Michele person? I'm often a little obsessed about training, in the past I focused on volume and quantity, leaving out other important things. Even as a person, when I put something into my mind, I have to get it. Translated: a little stubborn and not very elastic perhaps.
Is there an opponent with whom you particularly enjoy competing? Without hesitation I'll say Robert Antonioli. We grew up together, joined the national team together and already when we were young we stimulated each other. With Eydallin we are the old guard.
A sportsman, from the present or from the past, who you admire or that fascinates you? Of course, Kilian! When I was young, he was starting to go strong among seniors. I competed against him and sometimes I even beat him… But it was more the times when he was the one who prevailed. A strong, stainless head. A true champion, difficult to match. Often when I hear the words “this guy is a future Kilian” I smile and think that “there is only one Kilian”.
Alpine skiing and and the Olympics: do you like the direction the discipline is taking? It's taking a turn that many don't like. I partially agree, because what we will see at the Olympics distorts the discipline a bit. However I think that, as in other disciplines, there have been some evolutions that have been appreciated over time. The positive thing is that, of course, the Olympics will be a window on the world for this sport, just as it was for sport climbing.
As a child, when my grandfather took me to my father's races and often towed me with a rope (I was only 5 or 6 years old) to see him descend from a more beautiful and panoramic point.
BY MARTA MANZONI
Why, speaking of the adventures of Kristin Harila, many feel the need to specify that she has blue eyes, blond dreadlocks and a wonderful smile, while nobody gives a damn about how Denis Urubko looks like but only about what he does? Why there is the need to specify that she’s a female mountaineer? Because the mountain world is still extremely misogynistic. Yet there are more and more women who go to the mountains and obtain incredible results. Courtney Dauwalter, Laura Rogora, Silvia Vidal, just to name three. However, in most of the R&D departments of outdoor brands there are only men, convinced that all women go crazy for fuchsia. It ends up that if you set your mind on breaking the speed ascent world record of all the fourteen eight-thousanders on Earth, but you are a woman, finding a high altitude suit of your size becomes insane, because there are only sizes for man. And so you have to have
it custom made, and then work a lot to find a sponsor to support you. Exactly what happened to Kristin Harila, who recently joined the SCARPA team.
Tell us something about you. Taboo words: mountains and mountaineering. My name is Kristin, I’m 36 and I’m from the north of Norway. This year I climbed twelve eight-thousanders. When I was younger I played soccer and volleyball and I always practiced a lot of physical activity. I competed as a pro athlete in crosscountry skiing until 2009, when I discovered the world of mountain running and ultrarunning, which I fell in love with. In 2015, thanks to my work, I won a trip to Kilimanjaro, and I decided to climb the highest mountain in Africa. In 2019 I quit my job (the best choice taken in my whole life) and decided to take a gap year to go mountaineering. I flew to Nepal, where I climbed Putha Chuli (7246m). Then I climbed Acon-
“Every activist needs to be a dreamer, a utopian, a maximalist... As we face violence, attacks, misconceptions and stigmatisation, we need to have strength to stand up again and again. We need to dream that we can make the world better if we want to be able to continue the fight.”
- INNA SHEVCHENKO, FEMEN LEADER
cagua (6962m), in Argentina, and did some ski mountaineering expeditions. Then came the pandemic. I took the opportunity to train, and in 2021, as soon as I could, I climbed Everest and then Lhotse in just 12 hours, setting a new female record. I also started planning my own project: to become the first person in the world to climb the world's fourteen peaks above eight thousand meters in less than six months, and to achieve this I sold everything I had. Furthermore, due to the difficulties I encountered, I was able to see first hand how the outdoor industry is still very far from gender equality.
You don't have neither a home nor a boyfriend. What are you learning from your alternative lifestyle and from extreme sports in contact with nature? Actually when I started this project I had a boyfriend but our relationship ended because I was always in the mountains. It's not easy to be together when you're always traveling on expeditions. I love my lifestyle and being in contact with the mountains, but that’s also tough, there are some very tough days. However, I find life more difficult when I come down from the mountains, when I'm at home and I have to find sponsors for my projects.
Is mountaineering only for selfish people? I don’t think so. As far as I'm concerned, I'm a mountaineer because I love climbing mountains but also because I want to change something in this world. During this last year I have worked with many outdoor brands and realized how far we are from having gender equality. We think we have achieved a good level of equality, we think we respect women's rights, while there’s still a long way to it, even here in Norway. When I have to look for a sponsor it’s very difficult, most of the outdoor brands only support male athletes and produce mountaineering clothing only for them. That’s why I decided to use my eight-thousanders project to have the opportunity to sit down with the brands and ask why this world is still so sexist. There are more and more women climbing and the community is going in the right direction, but I think there is still a long way to go, especially with companies. Why, with a project with an equal goal, does a man count more than a woman? Mountaineering is not just about me, it’s about something more important.
Is mountaineering about avoiding pain or seeking pain? Is it a search for suffering or for beauty? For me it means living life in close contact with nature but also being
able to reach the top. For this reason it is essential to be highly motivated under different points of view. If you decide to undertake certain projects you must be aware that they involve a considerable amount of suffering. You need to know that you will feel uncomfortable for a long time.
You were about to become the first person in the world to climb the fourteen peaks of the earth above eight thousand meters in less than six months, beating the previous record held by Nirmal Purja who, in 2019, with his Project Possible 14×7 (14 peaks in 7 months) had been the fastest climber. You were three days ahead of the previous record, what went wrong? From Manaslu, the last of the twelve eight-thousanders I've climbed, we had another five weeks to beat the record and we started the process to obtain permits to climb the last two mountains, which however were denied by China, forcing me to give up my goal, despite the efforts I also made with the Norwegian government and the climbing community. But I'm not going to give up! I'll try again next year, starting from the two eight-thousanders I’ve left, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, and then climbing back up to the other twelve, trying to make it in five months. I think it's possible,
for sure we need permits and we have to be lucky with the weather.
Logistically how did you face the climbs? The whole planning part, from the search for sponsors to the request for permits, was really difficult. But I think next year will be better, I know the procedures and the mountains and I think I'll be able to move more easily.
With what style did you face the eight-thousanders? During this project I climbed with the help of Sherpas and using oxygen, but it was different from mountain to mountain, on some of them I found fixed ropes, in others not. Next year, however, I intend not to use oxygen. In general, I believe that everyone can do mountaineering as they wish, the important thing is to be honest about what they use.
Beyond the interest in the mountains, how much did achieving a record and its subsequent recognition count in proportion? AI love climbing mountains, but it is essential that there are several reasons that lead you to undertake a project such as that of the one of the eight-thousanders, recognition alone is not enough. The record is important, because it helps you find sponsors who support you.
You climbed Everest and Lhotse in 8 hours and half, both in the same day. The evolution of mountaineering is increasingly marked by lightweight and speed, but what's the point in climbing a mountain at high speed? Isn't there a contradiction with the new prospective of seeking greater harmony with the rhythms of nature? Is there a risk of multiplying risk factors? For safety reasons it is good to be fast, the longer you stay on the mountain the more you are exposed to risk factors. Certainly a project like the one of the eight-thousanders is special, because it focuses on time, there is a lot of pressure and you have to be fast. I feel the need to experience some adventure where performance doesn't have all this importance, I think that after the eight-thousanders project I will take some time to do it.
During your mountaineering expeditions, how have you seen the mountains change due to climate change? It was really hot in Pakistan this summer, and we noticed some changes, especially in the glaciers, where we found many crevasses and avalanches. Even the monsoons in Nepal came earlier than usual, which is absolutely abnormal.
Do you think the mountain is for everyone or just for a few people? I believe that people must be adequately prepared, under different points of view. They have to be trained, experienced and take one step at a time. In general, however, I think it’s positive that more and more people are looking for a life outdoors, going to the mountains and deepening their passion for nature.
What is the role of mountaineers in raising public awareness about the coming ecological disaster? CI believe that everyone can do something positive to change the system and play an active role in protecting the environment. For now, I'm trying to do what I can to reduce my footprint and emissions, but after the eight-thousander project, I'd like to be more active on this issue and to encourage people to reflect on the phenomena I see during my activity as a mountaineer.
Do you think it’s possible to climb an eight-thousander in a sustainable way? Did you take many planes for your project?
Yes, I think it’s possible, it seems to me that there is a greater sensitivity about it, for example it is mandatory to bring the oxygen cylinders back downhill and there are fines for those who don't, but certainly we can do better, be more careful, create less waste and always bring down what we find. The world of communication has a considerable responsibility, it is important that there is adequate information. I try to take as few flights as possible but some are unavoidable if you want to achieve certain goals.
Would you define mountaineering as a privilege? Yes, I think I'm very lucky to be able to live this life. Most people don't get the chance to be able to travel all that time.
Are you afraid of dying in the mountains? No. There have been situations where I thought I was about to, but I think the most important thing in life is to do what we like. I don't think about death.
Climbing an eight-thousander as a woman or as a man is the same? I believe that women are just as strong as men, so there is no difference.
Do you think you’re inspiring people? I hope so, I like the idea of motivating women to climb mountains and do what they really want. I receive a lot of positive feedback from women, but also from men, and I must say it's a great satisfaction.
How do you imagine the mountaineering of the future? I hope there will be some progress regarding gender equality, it seems to me that we are moving in the right direction.
If you look out the window, what do you see? It's already dark here in Oslo! But yesterday it snowed and it was very nice.
Who will you be in a hypothetical next life? I don't think there is another life, life is now.
Hervé Barmasse has experienced many ways of living the mountains: at 16 he was a promise of alpine skiing in the downhill and giant slalom categories, until an accident cut short that possible career. “Forget about skiing, you'll be lucky if you can walk again” doctors told him. However, Hervé not only put his skis back on, but then he also became a ski and even snowboard instructor. However, he didn't find his true passion on piste, as he believed when he was sixteen, but in that contact with the mountains reserved for a few people, on the most impervious routes and in the most extreme conditions. Today he is the Italian mountaineer who is preparing to take on the legacy of giants such as Walter Bonatti and Reinhold Messner and he’s quite qualified to talk about the future of our mountains, understood both as geological formations and as areas and communities. Hervé can talk about the future of mountain tourism not only because he is a profound connoisseur of this environment and because he loves it very much, but also because he has experienced many times what it means to have to change direction, reformulating what he believed was the right path. It happened when he was sixteen years old with the accident, it happened again when he almost died hit by an avalanche while climbing an icefall in Pakistan, and it happened on Shisha Pangma, his
first eightthousander climbed in alpine style and abandoned three meters below the summit because the snow under him and under his partner David-Göttler was giving way. In short, Hervé is someone who has trained and cultivated his resilience, just like he did with his incredible mountaineering skills.
A resilience that needs to be cultivated and trained by all those mountain communities that have based their subsistence on alpine skiing and on ski areas, but which today, due to climate change and drought, find themselves forced to rethink their offer, if not in the immediate future, certainly in the near future. I was lucky enough to be able to spend two days together with Hervé in Breuil-Cervinia, an area that is home for him, dominated by that mountain, Matterhorn, which for him is a constant source of inspiration. That same mountain is where he has accomplished most of his challenges: new routes, solo ascents, winter ascents and enchainments, but above all it’s the place where he found hope again after the accident thanks to his father Marco, a mountaineer and mountain guide just like him. “Here in BreuilCervinia and Valtournenche, at 3800 meters high, we are really lucky, but mountain tourism needs to be rethought
from the basics.”
The mountaineer, heir to Bonatti and Messner, shares a profound and heartfelt reflection on what is best for the future of our peaks: no criticisms, but solutions.
It’s Saturday night and we're at the Teodulo refuge, at 3337 meters above sea level, it's the end of November and it has already snowed a lot, outside (it's 9pm) the thermometer says -15 Celsius degrees. It would seem that everything is ok, but if you are a mountaineer you won't get fooled by what "seems" ok. “Winters are getting milder, summers are getting hotter and this year we talked about drought for the first time: the future of our winter seasons, especially concerning winter tourism linked to ski resorts, definitely needs to be rethought. In particular for those resorts that try to survive between 1000 and 1500 meters: by now that has become an altitude where enormous efforts need be made to use artificial snow, but we must understand that if there will continue to be a lack of water and drought, that water will probably need to be used elsewhere.”
So? What can we do? “We have to change and we have to do it now so it will a moderate and gradual change. We must be able to offer a kind tourism that will be different from how we know it, an alternative model that will still take people to the mountains. If we don't do it now, and we don't start immediately, then we will risk a lot. For resorts that are located from 1500 meters upwards, the future seems a little better, but even there we have to be careful, because it is only a matter of time now.” In fact, the issue that animates the mountain world in recent months concerns precisely the survival of ski areas as we know them: “I believe that it is short-sighted to point the finger only at ski resorts, to imagine of closing them: surely we need a change, but this step must be prepared. Beyond how snow will be produced if there is no snow, another important question linked to ski areas concerns the amount of people who go there condensed into a few winter months. Can a mountain accommodate 5000, 6000 cars? There are many questions connected to the activity in those areas, but we must also look at the related industries that generate this type of tourism, and we must understand how to replace it. Just closing places, where there is also a social responsibility of the economic induced that an activity like alpine skiing generates, simply does not make any sense.”
Are you talking about grants? “The first thing we need are ideas, and then money to make them happen. But it’s us who need to have those ideas, what does a politician know about what life in the mountains is,
the reality of the mountain people and the reality of these resorts? It’s those who experience these realities who must commit themselves to finding new solutions, then politicians must help us realize them. But we must pay attention to one thing: we cannot imagine the same numbers as in the past, something must change. We have to get to a point where we recognize that what we have is enough for us, it brings us enough money, and we have to understand that we need to stop: exaggeration does not lead to sustainable tourism, but to its collapse. We need also another thing: stopping sterile criticism. We as mountain people have to commit ourselves to starting a fruitful discussion about our future, and not limit ourselves to speaking with tranchant slogans. We can’t stop skiing, just as we can't shut down factories or cities. Milan pollutes, so what do we do, shut down Milan? We need a change, but it will have to be gradual.”
What could be a way for having a kind of "happy degrowth" of our resorts? “Let's imagine an area that sees the presence of one million people in a winter season, 800,000 of them linked to skiing tourism, but we know that piste skiing is destined to die. How can I still have those same 800,000 people coming here by offering them a different type of tourism? Maybe a type of tourism where you don't work 4 months, then there is a dead season, and then another 4 months, but you work all year round. Those same 800,000 people, spread over 12 months instead of 4 will bring a much more environmentally sustainable type of tourism. In my opinion, this is what we need to do: get those same tourists to arrive at different times, diversifying the offer linked to the mountains. Let's take the Apennines for example: snow and ski tourism ended many years ago but the places have been preserved, they have remained very wild and this is, for example, what foreigners look for: pure and little-explored territories. One direction could be this, for example, to create parks and protect those areas, which should not be visited for anthropization or for the hotel offer, but for their naturalistic beauties. The parks of North and South America work for that, they give people pure, preserved nature, and that's what we have to do too.”
Teodulo refuge has huge windows that overlook Matterhorn, a symbolic mountain which, due to its shape, is also used to describe other mountains in the world: Ama Dablan, for example, is described
as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas. In addition the whole massif, due to its conformation, is so wild that it is defined as the European Himalaya. When Hervé looks at it, you can perceive all the love he has for this mountain, you understand why he gets so excited when it comes to protecting mountain, alpine or Himalayan environment. Today, when adventures in the mountains are becoming more and more popular, in fact, in addition to the normal activities in those areas, even the intense attendance of the glaciers and the most sought-after peaks certainly does not help the situation.
“The process for those who intend to devote themselves to outdoor disciplines in close contact with the wildest mountain must pass through culture and conscience, and you cannot find them online, but you find them through experience, yours and the one of others. Normally when you approach certain types of environments, such as glaciers, you have to rely on those who know the mountains well, i.e. mountain guides. One thing must be understood: the mountain is dangerous, when we visit it we accept the risk, but we must also accept the fact of respecting it, of climbing it according to its rules, not ours, leaving no traces of our passage. Glaciers are in great danger today, here in Breuil-Cervinia we are lucky: our glaciers and those around Monte Rosa will probably be the last ones to disappear, but sooner or later it will happen, who thinks that in 100 years there will still be glaciers in the Alps is delusional. But the reflection that we must do is not so much that there will no longer be something that allows us to do activities in the mountains, but that there will no longer be water, and water is life: today this should be everyone's focus, the mountain will take on an importance it has never had, because it is necessary for human life.”
By now the moon is high and illuminates that perfect pyramid that is Matterhorn. “Every time I look at it I can't help but think of how much we've been through together, sure, compared to the face of Nanga Parbat it looks almost small.” Hervé is about to leave again: while you are reading this interview, he will probably be acclimatizing in Nepal, between December 10th and Christmas, before attempting again the undertaking that he had to abandon last year due to bad weather: climbing an eightthousander in winter and in alpine style (i.e. taking everything he needs with him and bringing
it back down). “If we are disrespectful towards our home mountains, then what should we say about those of the Himalayas or Pakistan? Today we have reached the paradox, there is more and more talk of massification of K2: there are more and more tourists who climb it with oxygen and fixed ropes, which are literally plasticizing the mountain. Again: on Everest every year are abandoned 6 kilometers of fixed ropes, which once the season is over remain incorporated by the ice and can no longer be removed. Climbing an eight-thousander in this way is just an act of selfishness and vanity.”
Beyond tourists, however, there are also many athletes who frequent normal routes. “I believe that a serious mountaineer shouldn't do this: the history of the eight-thousanders has already been largely written. You can’t climb it in alpine style? That’s ok: you will do a 6000m or a 4000m high mountain. I believe that even from outdoor companies there should be a little more seriousness in this, while instead they still continue to sponsor expeditions which contribute to plasticizing the mountain with fixed ropes. We have to start thinking about positive examples and those who represent the elite in this world, i.e. mountain guides and professional mountaineers, have the moral duty to satisfy their performance desires in a responsible way. For me, the only way to climb a mountain is in alpine style, but it's not about a sporting achievement, about being more or less good at climbing a mountain, but it’s about leaving it more or less clean. I believe we should take up the example of the great mountaineers of the past, not to do something sensational, but to do something right.”
And that's why you’re trying to climb again Nanga Parbat in winter? “David (Göttler) and my goal is to prove that you cn climb an eight-thousander in winter in alpine style. Maybe we went a little too far because we tried it on the biggest face in the world which, in winter, has never been climbed even in Himalayan style, so it would have been a truly sensational thing, but our motivation arose from the message we would have liked to conceive. Obviously it's a very difficult thing: all eight-thousanders, in winter, at the moment have been climbed in Himalayan style. We failed the first attempt, but we know it's possible to do it in an alpine style with the right weather conditions: that's why we’re trying again but, unlike last year, we'll first acclimatize in Nepal, and then we will decide which eight-thousander to climb based on the weather conditions.”
On Our Way is the second film project by Lorenzo Alesi, Alice Linari and Paolo Prosperi, aiming to raise awareness on the effects of climate change and on the possible new behaviours that could bring to positive results and represent a development and growth opportunity for the future. The journey of Lorenzo Alesi, professional skier, athlete and photographer, and Alice Linari, skier and explorer, from the heart of Europe to the Arctic Circle, would like to show that travelling and exploring with minimal carbon footprint is possible and to inspire others to take action to protect our planet.
We’ve spent the past years trying to describe the transformation the mountains are undergoing due to climate change, by showing pristine places and wonderful landscapes that highlight how unique our planet is and how lucky we are to live on it. Today more than ever the question we ask ourselves is what each of us can do to fight climate change. The largest amount of Co2 emissions certainly comes from systems bigger than us, however individual actions are important to achieve even small results. That’s why we decided to take on different behaviours in our everyday lives and during our exploration trips. We started from Munich with a full electric car, before leaving we had already planned several stops to charge the car, still being aware of the surprises that such a long itinerary might have presented. Actually, the travel was easier than we thought: the charging station network is very developed in northern Europe. Driving on bridges which are real architectural gems, using hybrid ferries to cross marvelous fjords, passing by breathtaking landscapes, in just two days we arrived at the Lofoten Islands. In Ballstad, at the Hattvika Lodge, our friend Kristian Bøe was waiting for us. The day after our arrival we checked the different areas where we could ski
but unfortunately conditions were not great. Luckily, 48 hours later, a storm from the North brought 30cm of fresh snow, giving the Lofoten Islands their unique magical look. One of the highlights of our skiing experience in Lofoten was our day at Rundfjellet. The weather forecast looked promising. As we reached Svolvaer the sun was rising, giving a wonderful pink color slowly turning into gold to the East face of the Islands. We reached the parking lot, prepped the ski touring gear and began the long walk until the start of the ascent. We enjoyed our ski tour with calm, admiring the beauty of this fairytale place. After reaching the summit and soaking up the incredible views, we decided to ski down on the North face where the conditions looked good. The turns in the fresh powder were pure pleasure, it felt like skiing in a painting where we were the moving subjects. Mountains covered with snow until the sea, hundreds of fjords, magical light: this is Lofoten. As we silently drove back we witnessed a marvelous sunset. It was time to continue our journey, we thanked Kristian for letting us experience these islands not as tourists but as part of the local community. We said goodbye and left direction North, to the next destination of our journey across Norway.
We drove to Tromsø under a heavy snowfall. We left the car charging, while we tasted some delicious Norwegian waffles with brown cheese in the nearby café. After a few hours we reached the harbor in Hansnes, to catch the ferry for the island of Vannøy. We were super excited: we had planned to visit our friend Marco Rossi on “his” island in the far north for two years but had to postpone our trip due to Covid. Marco is a sailor and explorer so we decided to visit him and to explore the islands in the Arctic with his sailing boat “Cadeau”, skiing, sailing, and listening to his experience in the far north. While enjoying a traditional Norwegian dinner we noticed the northern lights appearing in the sky. We had seen them before, but never with such intensity and we were really blown away by that spectacle of nature. As we woke up the next morning, Marco informed us that the wind was favorable and that we could get ready to set sail. We drove
to the small nearby harbor, loaded the boat with food and gear and set sail direction Kågen. The next day we woke up early to enjoy the whole day: it was sunny and looking very promising. It’s amazing to be able to leave the boat with all our ski gear and directly reach our ski touring spot. We stared skinnig up the east face and enjoyed the beautiful view over the fjord. Once we reached the pass the weather changed and when were only 300m from the summit but we decided not to continue because of the very bad visibility and a relevant accumulation of snow just above us. We decided to wait until sunset hoping, as it had happened previously, that the sun would appear below the clouds gifting us with beautiful light to ski down. We waited several hours on the mountain, admiring the view and fully embracing the elements. But our long wait was rewarded: at sunset the snow on the whole west face of Kågen turned pink and gold, we skied
down to the pass with this incredible light, then skinned up again on the opposite face and skied down almost to the water. That was truly one of the most spectacular skiing moments ever: drawing lines on a remote island in the Arctic, with that magical light and reflections on the ocean.
The next day we docked in Arnøy and started the ski tour directly from the little harbor. In a couple of hours, we reached the summit, the view over the fjord was incredible and the descent down to the ocean so much fun. We set sail again to get back to Vannøy. Sailing at sunset while admiring the islands of Uløya, Lyngen Alps, Kågen Fugløya was breathtaking. Without the use of the motor, we fully enjoyed the sound of the water and the wind, and suddenly we noticed something moving in the ocean: dolphins, swimming next to our boat as if they came to say goodbye to us.
We left the islands of the far north with a big smile on our faces, thinking back of such memorable experiences. We drove to the village of Torsken in Senja, the second biggest island of Norway, where our friend Jørgen Wang was waiting for us at the lodge Senja By Heart. We had never been there and were very curious to explore this island. As we woke up the next day, we realized the snowfalls of the past days covered this area too and the conditions looked good. We decided to summit Husfjellet, as we skinned up above the tree line, we could see the fjord and a very different scenery from the other places we had visited during our trip: the mountains are much rockier and pointier here and the water so turquoise. We enjoyed a fun descent skiing down and went back to Torsken.
On our last day, Jørgen proposed to show us one of his favorite ski tours, so we drove to the other side of the island to summit Kvaenen. The wind was strong and the conditions quite chal lenging, with icy and hard snow and low visibility. Despite the difficulty,
we reached the summit and admired an incredible scenery at 360 degrees: the rocky mountains rising from the sea and the storm approaching in the background. Few minutes to remove the skins and we skied down again, the wind was too strong to stay longer on the summit. We skied down passing through a wonderful scenery. We looked at the long and narrow fjord one more time, maybe one of the most beautiful fjords we saw during our trip, and headed back to Torsken to pack our luggage, say goodbye to our friend Jørgen. The drive back was as beautiful as the way there, as we witnessed impressive mountains, fjords, bridges and colors of nature. Thinking back of all the beautiful moments and the toughest ones we felt extremely grateful for everything we were bringing back home with us. A different lifestyle is
stic lifestyle. What is important is that we truly can contribute to preserving the health of our planet through our individual actions as in the end it’s our life and that of future generations that
Martina Valmassoi is the most interesting person I've interviewed up to date. Tamara Lunger is powerful, strong and tenacious. Hervé Barmasse is intelligent, cultured, always impeccable whether it's a solo bivouac on his Matterhorn or a presentation in front of hundreds of people. Tudor Laurini (aka Klaus) is an artist and for this category it is often unnecessary to add anything else. Wafaa Amer has brought her story to every hold and Federica Mingolla moves on the rock like Roberto Bolle on the stage of the Teatro alla Scala. They are all known names, they couldn't not be. But Martina is a completely different story.
Each of us fixes images in the head of the things and people met in life, it is inevitable. I haven't shaken Martina's hand yet, but I memorized her like this: shoes dirty with mud, a little fresh and a little encrusted. Loose socks sprinkled with small white pines on a blue background and a red fox running down the malleolus. Both feet off the ground to hide the signs of kilometers and elevation gain of an endless trail. Blue shorts, grey t-shirt, black S/Lab backpack with half full and half empty water bottles and a pair of white headphones dangling to the side with dead batteries. On the left arm what I imagine to be a Suunto, on the right arm anything that can be tied to a wrist. From the right shoulder pops out a pair of telescopic poles presumably used in the more technical passages while on her head she has nothing but an eccentric cap and a headlamp to light up her run. There’s everything on her face: emotion, satisfaction, tiredness, gratitude, pride, sweat and femininity. This is the frame of Marina I want to keep, the one from the time she crossed the finish line at UTMB with no one ahead of her. First, after 145 kilometers and 9100 meters of elevation gain. With both feet still off the ground after 22 hours and 42 minutes of running. First, with arms wide open like someone who wants to embrace the crowd rather than accepting compliments. Because that’s what you will find at UTMB. We have been exchanging messages on WhatsApp for two years now to organize an outing together, a picnic for her, a hard training for me. And now that the snow finally seems to arrive, the idea of a ski mountaineering tour seems feasible. Of course I will
keep you updated on this. As I said before, there are many things to say about Martina, probably too many for these pages. She skis, runs, climbs. She rides her bikes, works, take pictures. She is a kind person. I reach her on the phone and even her voice seems to smile. But be careful, when I say that she skis, I mean that she was part of the A national ski mountaineering team until 2016, collecting two bronze medals and a seventh place at the Tambre d'Alpago world championship. When I say that she runs, I mean that she wins top level trail running and ultrarunning competitions. When I say that she rides her bike, I mean that she precedes the stages of Giro d'Italia alone, and with a fully loaded bike. When I say that she takes pictures, I mean that she tells a piece of herself. When I say that she works, I mean that she works like crazy and when I that say she's nice, I mean that she always is.
“I believe that pictures are like stories: with a beginning, an end and above all something to say. Since I've been taking pictures more frequently, it's easy for me to tell things through images."
While I listen to Martina with one ear talking on the phone, I scroll her Instagram feed with two fingers. A photo captures me, the upper part of the shot draws the background in a white and blue gradient while a sharp line cuts the frame diagonally, a clean break between sky and mountain. In the middle, an athletic figure rises against the light, right leg and left arm forward, with the naturalness of someone who does things without taking herself too seriously, which is not necessary. Two long shadow lines stretch towards the observer, towards
A young Pablo Picasso once said: “All children are born artists, the difficult thing is to remain so when they grow up.” I am convinced that Pablo would have liked (even a grown up) Martina.
the photographer, interrupting the texture of the freshly illuminated virgin snow, closing the photo in an impeccable graphic composition. Martina, along that border line between earth and sky is not halfway, it is not even at the beginning. There is more space behind than in the front. A perfect metaphor to tell who, like her, sails on sight. She doesn’t plan every detail, she runs away from that long-term plans that are often counterproductive. She sets off, inquires about the first few meters and prepares herself professionally but then she goes, without useless mental masturbation. She knows her goal well and knows equally well that when that’s very high or far away, it is possible to reach it only by observing it in small parts. In this photo, the author of the shot, Fabian Johann, captured the same thing I felt. He shot it, I wrote it, but Martina remains the one who drew it.
There is a coexistence of lucidity and unconsciousness in her words: reasoning and impulsivity. It is in these features that I am uncomfortable defining her as a "sportswoman" or "athlete" or "photographer". I feel the term “artist” is more appropriate. On the other hand, the term mentioned, and the dictionary says, is suitable considering as qualities the strength of inspiration and of the feeling, the height of the imagination, and attributing to the artist above all virtuosity and technical ability. Let's be honest, even in her dance on her Instagram stories, the one in which she performs in pajamas on crutches, there is all this. Ah yes, crutches. She also had a bad accident recently, a rock blast hit her while she was climbing in Trentino. “It could have been
much worse” she tells. And this demonstrates, once again, the spirit of those who don't smile only when they win.
I leave poetry aside for just a moment, to summarize her conquests (the most recent one at least):
• Winner of TDS in the last edition of UTMB
• Giro d'Italia by herself covering a preview of all the stages of the Pink Route
• World record for the greatest elevation gain on skis: 17.645 meters in less than 24 hours
I would like to insert, in these still images that tell her story, one immortalized by herself: the "Martina photographer". When I look at some pictures of her, I remember how much can be hidden in the unsaid of a good photo. In the black sky, in those strips of light and shadow that flow from the mountain and in the strength of the contrasts, I see Martina, a woman aware that no smile is possible without the balance between black and white. An athlete aware that there can be no light without darkness. An artist capable of creating poetry even with a black sky.
At this point I can't wait to take a picture of her, to draw her in my own way.
See you soon Martina,
P.S. Don’t ask her why she does what she does, she seemed uncomfortable trying putting it into words. Look at her photos or go follow her, if you can, up and down the mountains.
She doesn’t plan every detail, she runs away from that long-term plans that are often counterproductive. She sets off, inquires about the first few meters and prepares herself professionally but then she goes, without useless mental masturbation.
BY AARON ROLPH
STORY FEATURING TOM GRANT AND BINEZA LOHAR
While perhaps Pakistan is known more for its cricket than skiing, the muslim state is home to three great mountain ranges and several of the world’s highest peaks. You’ll forgive my surprise then when we get hit with a wall of heat and almost 40 degrees air temperature when landing in Pakistan’s capital, Islamabad. Our summit team consisted of the Bine Žalohar, the brains behind the expedition and former-pro freestyle skier turned ski mountaineer, Tom Grant, highly experienced steep skier and IMFGA mountain guide and myself, a full-time adventure athlete who happens to be handy with a camera. Joining us on the expedition was pro freeride skier, Juliette Willman plus expedition and arctic doctor, Beth Healey who would be looking to ski other objectives in the same area. Our allstar Chamonix-based team had no shortage of talent and although here to get a job done, certainly didnt take themselves too seriously.
We spent the first couple of days exploring the beautiful green metropolis of isamabad, a city I was previously familiar with invariably popping up in the news. Although bustling, even a little intense in places, the capital is known for its high standard of living, cleanliness and safety. You were soon reminded however, that things worked differently here by the number of Kalashnikovs that casually patrolled the streets and were held by guards at the entrance of many of the buildings. That said, this soon becomes our new norm, relaxing as we chat to countless locals who are clearly keen to say hello and welcome us to their nation.
Eager to get into the mountains, we pack up and begin our 7-hour road trip towards the Hindu Kush range, and specifically the Swat valley. Arriving into the small but vibrant town of Kalam which lies where two glacial rivers converge up at 2000m, we rest up after the long journey while enjoying the comfort of the more temperate mountain climate. We enjoy some local cuisine between meetings with our expedition partners who are helping with basecamp logistics and organsiing porters to help carry in supplies.
All packed up, we’re on the move in fully-kitted out 4x4s over the rugged gravel tracks that pass through the remote but busy villages as we climb higher and higher. The enormity of our objective comes into sight and the grandeur of the mountain is becoming clearer. Standing at just shy of 6000m, Falak Sar is the highest peak in the Ushu valley and Swat region. The towering peak is a wonderuflly symmetrical pyramid, glistening with brilliant-white snow which contrasts starkly with the rich flouring forest in the fore. It’s amazing to think such an aethetic mountain has only ever been summitted successfully by a handful of people, and even more exciting that no one has yet skied it. With very limited information on the route and no detail on the condition of the mountain, we had a big adventure ahead of us! Could we be the first people ever to put ski lines on Falak Sar?
After dividing equipment and supplies into carriable loads, we begin the two-day hiking approach towards where we hoped to establi-
Having had a couple of expeditions abroad already curbed this year, I have to say the idea of a big ski project in Pakistan was pretty exciting.
sh basecamp. Our team of porters, made up largely of young men from local villages seemed just as excited as we were despite the weighty loads. The following days would prove to be an essential part of our acclimbatisation program so it was essential to not let the excitement of this big project get the better of us. Generally moving smoothly at a modest pace will stand you in good stead for avoiding any undue sickness from the noticeable altitude increase. The forest trail meanders precariously above a a mountain stream which is brimming with beaitfully clear melt-water, a pleasant distraction from the heavy backpacks. The warm sun is soon replaced with cool evening air and finishing the day at a temporary camp spot, we share stories while keeping warm around a roaring campfire. The following morning starts with a steep and committing climb, and with no sign of a path, we carefully navigate over loose scree and rocks but before long the snow has arrived. If anything, the unsavoury conditions increase our tempo until we reach the rocky plateau that will become our home for the next two or three weeks.
Our basecamp setup was a step-up from what I was used to on previous expediitons. We had a few decent sleeping tents, a mess tent for eating and relaxing in and another tent for our expedition cook, Zaheer who would whip us some great dishes for our big ski days ahead. We were also joined by local guide, Ahmed, assistant cook, Nazir and even a local polceman, Sattar who although confident we were
safe, decided to stick around to make sure. The following days, we created a wonderful bond, exchanging stories from our own cultures and laughing a lot together. After a complex history in previous after an insurgence of Taliban occupuration, it felt as though Pakistan had an unjust reputation as an unsavoury place. This was all in the past anbd the reality on the ground was that we’d met some of the warmest and kindest people anywhere in the world. I was clear this expedition was more significant than a summit or first ski descent, but was a way to show the world that Pakistan is open for business and a culturally rich and fascinating place. We weren’t just climbing for ourselves now but for the local people of the Swat region.
After some pretty dodge stomachs allround, most likely from the food between Islamabad and Kalam, we took some invaluable rest days and time to acclimbatise. The slow pace of basecamp life takes some getting used to but before long, we can see a weather window on the horizon. It looks like two bomber high pressure days that we could rely on for a summit bid, and although this had come sooner in the trip than we’d hoped it seemed too good an opportunity to pass up. We set about up the glacier to do our first kit drop on a moody grey afternoon. We’re weaving in and out of crevasses managing to keep our skis and climbing skins on for the majority of the glacier climb. We cache the loads we’d carried digging them into a snow pitt next to an easily recognisable crevasse, making the GPS location and head back down to camp.
After a complex history in previous after an insurgence of Taliban occupuration, it felt as though Pakistan had an unjust reputation as an unsavoury place. This was all in the past and the reality on the ground was that we’d met some of the warmest and kindest people anywhere in the world.
The following day the conditions look good and it’s time to move up and establish advanced basecamp. The air is thin up at 5000m and with huge loads, we’re gasping for every breath of oxygen. Much to our relief, the glacier starts to plateau and we reach the spot we’ll spend the night. Removing our backpacks and setting up basecamp brings a palpable relief, although inspections of the face leave us concerned what condition tomorrow’s route is going to be in. We can ser very large patches of ice on the higher slopes where a fierce wind has scoured away the snow. We put this to the back of our minds however and try to take on enough food, melt snow and get some rest before our big day tomorrow.
The “alpine start” never gets any easier for me, but the bitter northerly winds make this one especially unkind. Not yet graced with the warth of the alpine sun, any uncovered skin has the heat sapped away almost immediately. Despite the harsh conditions, we’re making good progress touring up the the first third of the face, soon reaching the ice pitches we were cocnerned about. Being sure to keep the rope taut, we steadily climb up the face with skis on our back, smashing our axes and kicking in our camproned-boots. So far so good, and although it requires our full physical and mental effort, we’re moving well. Tom is placing ice screws for security and I’m removing them as we go up roped together. After around ten hours of climbing, the summit is finally in sight and despite our burning lungs, we feel like we’re on top of the world. Taking our last few steps, we take the 360 summit vistas which reveals peaks as far as the eye can see at every direction.
Of course the top of a mountain is only half way, but I’ve never been so excited to clip into my skis. We take the obligatorty summit snaps and put in the first jump turns down the 50 degree slope which has soft snow that sluffs our skis. This whole area is complete a no fall zone, skiing above a hanging cliff where a mistake could cost us everything. Our confidence starts to build however, and moving onto the western ridge we’re shredding hard and feeling good until we reach the icey face. We knew we’d need to put in some abseils here so set about building an anchor with a v-thread into the ice and tied together our two ropes making for 50m rapells. Four time-consuming abseils later, we were back on our skis as the afternoon light was starting to glow softly. We knew it was plain sailing from here so could really enjoy the descent skiing hard, cheering as we went. We swiftly packed up our kit on the glacier and continued down. By now the sky is filling with orange and pink and pink hues, arriving back to basecamp just in time. The team are there to meet us, celebrating our summit and ski descent in style, all relieved to have us safely back to camp with a successful mission complete.
We spent the following days exploring the wider region which is rich in both nature and great people The locals of Kalam kindly hosted a party for us, celebrating the first ski descent of Falak Sar with local food, music and dancing. I’ve been fortunate enough to visit areas all over the world on expeditions of all sorts and have never experienced a warmer and kinder country of people. If you get a chance to visit this incredible region of Pakistan, you won’t regret it.
I’ve been fortunate enough to visit areas all over the world on expeditions of all sorts and have never experienced a warmer and kinder country of people.
PHOTOS GABRIELE PEDEMONTE TEXT ILARIA CHIAVACCI
His shots are becoming increasingly popular among the lovers of travels and the outdoors, but for Gabriele Pedemonte photography is not a job, rather a therapy, a way to open the mind and heal the wounds of the soul. “I started shooting in 2014: I was going through a period of depression from which, in the end, if I got out it was mainly thanks to the camera. It is a passion that I have combined with my other great love: travelling, especially when that leads me to discover cultures that are very different from mine.”
Talent without passion would be useless but Gabriele has got both of them so much that, in less than ten years, he went from being a total stranger to participating in international exhibitions and seeing his shots published on the most important outdoor magazines. He only shoots during his expeditions and, after two years of stop due to the pandemic, that can be considered a good result: "What has always fascinated me in my expeditions is coming into contact with people who have lifestyles completely different from mine." The great names from whom Gabriele takes inspiration have told through images the most fascinating and remote peoples
of the earth: Sebastião Salgado, Steve McCurry and Jimmy Nelson. “I was also lucky enough to meet Jimmy Nelson years ago in Paris, on the occasion of an exhibition during which I was also exhibiting. They, in this specific niche, were pioneers, both from the point of view of travel photography and of making the life of certain populations known to the world.” That’s why for his latest expedition he chose Siberia: a land as beautiful as it is inhospitable where Nenets live, a nomadic population who live off fishing and reindeer breeding portrayed in the past by Nelson himself.
For him, photography was initially a kind of therapy, then it became a passion and now it’s a need. The last border that photography led him to cross is the one of the harshest Siberia, where he met the Nenet nomads.
He only shoots during his expeditions and, after two years of stop due to the pandemic, that can be considered a good result: "What has always fascinated me in my expeditions is coming into contact with people who have lifestyles completely different from mine."
In your photographic trips you have always traveled to warm places, has this expedition put you to test? Decidedly. Siberia is a very complicated journey, you cannot rely on structures, because there are none, so if you go there you must necessarily stay and live with Nenets: I have been with them for almost two weeks of travel. It may seem like a little, but I assure you that under those conditions, to which we are not used to, one week can be perceived as an eternity. I should have found temperatures around -20, -25 Celsius degrees at most, but an unexpected bad weather caused the thermometer to drop to -50 after the first two days. Shooting at those temperatures is really challenging: it is tiring and painful for the body, but also complicated for the equipment itself.
You had to be very fast I guess. Up to -40 the camera still worked, but at -50 the viewfinder froze becoming unusable: with gloves and mittens it became very difficult to remove the ice that accumulated in a very short time, the screen was constantly covered with sleet, the lenses sizzled, the focus began to blow and the battery really lasted nothing. A challenge against time practically: the autonomy of the batteries, at those temperatures, is 4-5 minutes. I kept the spare ones in the pockets of my pants, in order for them to warm up a little by being closer to the body, when the others were dead I changed them, I shoot for another 5 minutes and then changed them again. This for me was the first trip in such an environment and, however tiring and painful, it was one of the most incredible experiences I have ever had in my life.
The landscape you faced must have been alienating sometimes... It is an almost lunar scenario: an infinite white space that is lost visibly and, above all, is shrouded in absolute silence. White expanses as far as the eye can see with nothing around. One of the shots that I like most of this trip portrays a woman walking in this white expanse that almost merges with the sky: it is almost evening and there is the moon on the horizon. I imagined that I would see some crazy places: what I didn't know is that the trip to Siberia would be a life experience that went far beyond a simple photographic report.
How do Nenets live? Their life is really simple: they are reindeer breeders, fishermen, and then live a lot of barter. In winter, however, their day is very short: it focuses on the hours of light, which for most of the year do not exceed 4, 4 and a half hours. In this period of time, most of the activities are concentrated, from collecting the wood to cleaning the chum, which is their type of tent.
How do they protect themselves from the cold? Mainly with reindeer skin: it is
Siberia is a very complicated journey, you cannot rely on structures, because there are none, so if you go there you must necessarily stay and live with Nenets: I have been with them for almost two weeks of travel.
the material of which their clothes are entirely made of, but even blankets, the covering of the chum, boots and mittens are made with reindeer skin. Each family has its own traditions in this sense.
Through your photos you’ve told very well the effect of the cold on the lives and bodies of Nenets: very red cheeks, frozen hair and very deep wrinkles. Is there any other aspect that you have discovered through your lens? What I wanted to convey is that these are people who live in very harsh conditions for most of the year, but they adapt in an incredible way. Another aspect that fascinated me is fishing, or how they manage to obtain drinking water. Which, of course, do not have and cannot get from snow, which you can drink in emergency conditions but not in the long run because it lacks minerals and all the nutrients we need. From the same lake in which they go fishing, they obtain blocks of ice and then melt them by heating them in the chum to get water to drink.
How did they relate to you? Initially the family that hosted me was very quiet, even life inside the chum was quite separate: they studied me, let's put it this way. Plus they don't speak any language other than their own, so we tried to communicate with gestures, which we as Italians do quite well I must say. Once the ice broke, I was able to make myself understood, and also accept, I think. Just looking into each other's eyes sincerely is a great communication tool. And if the adults were a little more wary at first, with the children it was all really immediate. Nenets don't have much and the children play in a simple way, as we used to do in the past: they throw snowballs, fight, chase each other. For me it was a
bit like going back to the eighties, certainly in more extreme conditions, but it has been a while since I have seen children so focused on themselves and their friends. Getting into a relationship with them was perhaps easier because they have fewer barriers: I immediately bonded very deeply with Olga, who is the girl with very red cheeks whose photo was chosen for the cover of Sidetrack.
For Nenets it seems as if time has stopped and surely for a Westerner coming into contact with these populations is something enriching, however, is there no risk, by overexposing their image, that the community will sooner or later be distorted? I believe that they are happy to be told: then we must keep in mind that the journey in their lands is very hard, you cannot go there without a guide who, at least in my case, has always insisted a lot on being respectful, also because they have remained very pure.
Do you think they are not attracted to modernity? For Nenets school is compulsory up to the age of 19: the chil-
Initially the family that hosted me was very quiet, even life inside the chum was quite separate: they studied me, let's put it this way. Plus they don't speak any language other than their own, so we tried to communicate with gestures, which we as Italians do quite well I must say. Once the ice broke, I was able to make myself understood, and also accept, I think.
dren leave their parents' home at six, Olga, who is now five, will leave next year: they spend all the time in the nearest town and then, once their cycle of studies is over, they choose whether to return to live in a nomadic way or to continue their life and studies in the city. What struck me a lot is the fact that most of them choose to go back.
In the West we are very attracted to the issue of “nomadism”, nowadays digital nomadism is especially cool. But the life of nomadic populations is actually very hard. How often do Nenets move? Every ten days, on the other hand, following a very strange path: if we looked at it from above it would be like seeing the symbol of infinity drawn by their caravan. During the winter they move the camp continuously making the circle on the left and arriving more less at the beginning of spring at the junction between the two circles: here they leave the tools necessary for the winter and their heavier clothes, they hide them and then they travel the rest of the circle throughout the summer. Then they return to the junction point before winter and retrieve all their belongings.
Do you think is there something that Nenets have taught you? Simplicity: they really live with nothing. And I know it's rhetoric, but it takes very little to be happy, we Westerners have terribly too much. A week with them made me rediscover the values of the families of the past: even just the fact, which is as basic as it is important, to worry about each other, to worry that everyone is well and has food. In our having too much, we also exploit the planet that hosts us too much.
Simplicity: they really live with nothing. And I know it's rhetoric, but it takes very little to be happy, we Westerners have terribly too much. A week with them made me rediscover the values of the families of the past: even just the fact, which is as basic as it is important, to worry about each other, to worry that everyone is well and has food. In our having too much, we also exploit the planet that hosts us too much.
Nenets are probably more respectful from this point of view… Absolutely, they have a lot of respect for the territory in which they live. When they set the camp off, there is no trace of their passage, you see nothing on the ground.
Are you planning to go back visiting them? Maybe in the summer? Definitely yes, even if the idea that has been buzzing in my head lately is to do a reportage on Mongolian reindeer breeders, it seems that they have a very intimate relationship with these animals, almost symbiotic, they have in fact earned the nickname of “reindeer men”. In Siberia, however, I will definitely want to go back sooner or later: when the snow melts the expanses of meadows that you can find in front of you are endless, it would change both the scenario and the daily life of Nenets, so the motivation is twofold.
TEXT EVA TOSCHI
PHOTOS RAMONA WALDNER
Via Sedna, however, is an adventure that began long before the swollen sails of the Northabout left the French port of La Rochelle. In one year, the eight women protagonists of this expedition have prepared to face the unknown, first of all by forging the ties that would have made the difference between success and failure. The most palpable goal was to open a route on a wall of Scoresby Sund and, without a doubt, to reach this fjord by sailing. Of course, then they would also have had to go back home, but they would have thought about that in due time. We spoke to Caro North who told us what happened on this crazy journey across the northern seas, Via Sedna.
What is it like to go back to a normal life after all this time on a boat? It’s very strange. Firstly because we were eight people sharing a very small space, then because, despite and thanks to the proximity, we got on very well together. Now being alone, in a house of my own, is very different from the normality of the last few days. I used to always be with others and sometimes now I feel alone. We talked about it and we all feel the same.
Did you already know your other team mates before leaving? Let's say that I got to know them during the year we prepared for this adventure. Some of us were already good friends, others knew each other before but superficially. But spending so much time together to prepare we got to know each other
thoroughly. Building human relationships was perhaps the most important part of it. It's what makes the difference when you have to spend a lot of time together in a very harsh environment.
Did you already have any sailing experience? Yes, I’ve already sailed once in Antarctica but it was a much shorter trip, seven days of sailing from Ushuaia. In this case, however, it took six weeks to get to Greenland and four to return home. I have never had such an intense sailing experience. What was the hardest part of sailing for so long in a wild environment like the one you've faced? The hardest part is being patient. The weather changes suddenly and you have to be ready to change your plans and wait at port for the best moment to leave. We encountered bad weather often and it took us longer than expected. We had to stop many times. We were trapped in the harbor waiting, watching the forecast. It's very difficult mentally. For me it was the hardest thing: being patient and keeping up the motivation not knowing if we would make it to where we wanted to go. There was a moment when we weren't so sure about getting to Greenland.
How did you manage to stay trained while sailing? It was certainly difficult to stay trained while getting to Greenland and open the route we dreamed of. We had workout plans of pull-ups, push-ups, and we had
a board
Sedna is the name of the Inuit goddess of the sea and of marine animals. She is the mother and protector of the sea, of those who cross it and those who live there. A better name could not have been chosen for the expedition of eight women to the fjords and walls of Greenland on a three-month sailing trip. The choice to call this adventure "Via Sedna" was made to show respect and gratitude towards nature, environment and local cultures.
with different grips. A trainer had given me exercises that could be done even in a very small space and I discovered that it worked, I had never thought that resistance could be trained in such a small space. However, we could only train when the boat wasn't rocking too much, so we couldn't do it often. Sea conditions were far from flat calm. Sometimes it was quiet at midnight and we took advantage of it as best as we could. On the way back, however, we never trained.
How were you organized during the sailing? We were all involved in the navigation, with two-hour shifts presided over by two people. It was so cold outside that after two hours you just wanted to run inside to rest for 4-5 hours. Because of the cold, sometimes we didn’t want to train at all. The organization below deck was very similar: we all did everything. We have always cooked all sharing recipes and dishes.
Why did you decide to go climbing at Scoresby Sund? Initially I had seen some photos that intrigued me. Then I spoke to some English climbers who had been there and they confirmed that the face that fascinated me was not virgin. I saw their photos of the wall and it didn't take much more to convince me. However, we had different goals in various places, because we didn't know where the wind would take us. This finally decided for us, prompting us to Scoresby Sund. Finally, it was nature that had the last word..
What was it like to see the rock face for the first time after all that time sailing the sea? It was incredible, a moment of pure joy, we were so happy as we crossed the glacier and saw that the face we were dreaming about was real and standing in front of us. It took us six weeks to get there and we didn't know if we had enough time to spend ashore.
How much time did you spend on land? Just ten days because we had to leave in mid-August as there is always a big storm in the North Atlantic in September. We only arrived in the fjord at the beginning of August and had very little time to climb: out of ten days three were rainy, and it took another
three days to bring the gear to the base of the wall, so we only had three days to climb.
Tell us more about “Via Sedna”, the route you opened. The route was demanding right from the start: the face is very overhanging and compact and we moved very slowly due to the terrain. There were no ledges to stand on, we were hanging all the time and that was pretty tiring too. However, this kind of challenge was what got us going in the first place. For a while, given the difficulty, we were afraid of not reaching the top in time. At the end of the first day we fixed ropes and went down to the base to rest. Here we wondered how to continue: whether to continue fast & light or bring up the portaledges. We opted for something in between. The second day we only managed to establish four pitches but we slept on the ledge. At that point we had many doubts, because we only had half a day to get to the top. Then something clicked, the rock face became more climbable and we went faster, by noon on the third day we were at the summit. It was the most intense moment of the whole trip: after all that effort, after all the waiting on the boat, after so many unexpected events we had made it. None of us could believe it. We opened the route entirely with friends, using bolts only to go down. When we set foot on the ground it started to rain.
What do you think you have learned from your fellow mates? We have all learned a lot: first of all to live on a boat with other 7 people. You have to be very respectful and aware of other people's spaces. If you don't feel comfortable you can't leave, you have to adapt to the needs of others. In the end, however, we had a very good time together. You learn how to behave, to listen, to empathize. It has been nice to see how we have grown as a group. Together we learned to face the unknown. Was there ever a critical moment when you thought you wouldn't make it? Yes, many moments. The first one was at Fær Øer where we stayed for a week due to bad weather. There we asked ourselves for the first time whether we should change our goal and
go to Norway or stay in Iceland and climb there. But we talked about it and we all agreed to continue on to Greenland even if we only had three days of climbing left. We were determined to risk it all. It wasn't an easy decision. Then, despite the hot season, we had to stay still for ten days waiting for the ice to melt before sailing. A big storm was expected while we waited, and ultimately the most important thing turned out to be surviving the storm, rather than climbing. Furthermore, while we were climbing, we had an engine failure and we didn't know if we would be able to restart.
How do the mountain and the sea look alike? Both are environments where you are exposed to the force of nature and where you have to adapt to it. Even life in these two places is very similar: you sleep in small places, you wash little. Sailing is a bit like mountaineering.
Have you ever met wild animals? In the sea we saw whales and dolphins that glistened in the night because of the plankton they eat. We saw two polar bears, one from the boat and one that came to our base camp on land. We were drinking coffee on the beach and fifty meters away from us we saw the polar bear coming out of the water and looking at us: it was huge. I wasn’t facing it but as soon as I saw my friend's face I immediately understood what was happening. Our guns were in the tent, away from us. We looked at each other for a long time because we didn't know what to do. My friend then screamed and the bear got scared and left. It went well because in this way no one, neither the bear nor us, got hurt. However when the bear left we were still shaking, it was a really intense moment.
What were your feelings on the return journey? I enjoyed the return journey much more, because during the outward journey my thoughts were directed towards the unknown, the unexpected, and I felt a lot of pressure. It was hard to stay positive and motivated at certain times. On the return journey I enjoyed the sailing, we had accomplished our
goal and I was relieved. However, even there we had to face some unforeseen events: we had to stay a week in Iceland not knowing if we would be able to return to France. Then the weather improved and we sailed twelve days in a row. I felt good on those consecutive days on the sea. When we arrived two days from our destination we had to wait another five days due to bad weather. That was a very frustrating moment because our heads were already at home.
How was it saying goodbye to your mates? The last day of sailing was very difficult due to bad weather, we were very concentrated. But when we arrived in La Rochelle and realized that our adventure together was coming to an end and that we would soon have to say goodbye, we were immediately sad. We partied on the last night to release the pressure of three months on the boat together. Then most of us cried. We built something powerful together.
What do you want to communicate with this experience? What we really want to share is that if you want to do something, you can do it. No one would have thought we would make it with an all-female team because both sailing and mountaineering are male-dominated environments. We felt that it wasn't like that, that we would make it, and that made the difference. When we returned to France many people told us "eight women on a boat, who knows how long you argued" but in reality it never happened, we got along very well together. It's sad how our society think that if you put so many women together they necessarily end up arguing. We were very attentive to the others, we talked about our feelings and we respected each others and this created a positive environment. I would like to communicate that you can do what you want and have fun at the same time, even when the conditions are difficult. And that for some things you have to take your time and be patient, even if it's the hardest thing in the world.
TEXT ILARIA CHIAVACCI PHOTOS JEREMY BERNARD
The world of sports and outdoor productions is evolving, there are more and more movies dedicated to mountain expeditions of skiers and snowboarders who always raise the bar a little further. “La Liste Everything or Nothing” is the movie by skiers Jérémie Heitz and Sam Anthamatten produced by Red Bull and Sherpa Cinemas. This is Sam's second project, which comes after "La Liste”: a list of mountains at an altitude of 4000 meters from which to draw epic lines in the Alps. This second project is a kind of sequel: but from the Alps they moved to Pakistan and went a little higher, “La Liste Everything or Nothing” has been shot at an altitude of 6000 meters. “This was their second trip to Pakistan, they had a bad accident during the first attempt so they have to change the project a little bit: skiing at very high altitudes can be very challenging. Organizing this kind of productions on the Alps is surely simpler, above all because on the Alps you have the possibility to check the conditions practically in real time: there are mountain guides, friends who are on the mountains every day and who can inform you straight away about the conditions, it’s still a bit difficult, but nothing compared to going to the other side of the world where you can't stay forever, but you have a
window of time of six/seven week and you have to hope that everything goes well.” Jeremy begins like that the story of the Pakistan adventure. Bernard accompanied the expedition which included 2 pro skiers, 2 mountain guides, 3 filmmakers, 7 Sherpas and a cook.
It must have been a crazy experience… It has been amazing. Our journey started in Islamabad and then, from there, we had two days of uninterrupted road trip in very bad conditions up to Skardu, the place where we had to find all the equipment for the expedition. There is also be the possibility of covering the same distance by plane, but it depends a lot on the conditions, which are often impractical. I have been there twice and the plane did not take off both times, so landing in Skardu is not the easiest way to go there. And the road is also quite epic, they call it a highway, but it has nothing vaguely similar to a highway. From Skardu then there is another day of journey to reach Askole, the last village you come across before venturing onto the glacier. Previously, only mountaineers were seen in these areas, but for some years now more and more skiers and snowboarders have been planning adventures on the mountains of Pakistan, the locals are starting to get used to us.
Through the pictures and the stories of Jeremy Bernard we had the opportunity to know more about the new movie by pro skiers Jérémie Heitz and Sam Anthamatten: “La Liste Everything or Nothing”.
I guess it was an adventure even reaching the glacier… From Askole we left with 25 Sherpas because we had a lot of equipment and food (we stayed at the camp for a total of three weeks), from there the goal was to reach Snow Lake, a plateau at an altitude of 5000 meters where to set up our base camp and spend as much time as possible there, in order to ski as much as we could. From Askole we started walking up to the point where we reached the snow, from there on we put on our skis and put the equipment and everything else on sledges to start the ascent of Biafo Glacier up to Snow Lake. Biafo is the third largest glacier in the world outside the polar region: it took us 7 days just to reach the base camp. To do this we needed several porters: some Sherpas stopped at the snow level, while 7 of them, being high altitude porters, reached the base camp with us and stayed there for the whole time. It's quite a journey to get there, but it's intense and beautiful, so it was totally worth it.
Cold? Snow Lake is a mountain plateau, when you're there it's all white around you, during the day it can be also quite hot, the real problem is during the night because it freezes. It goes from 5 degrees when the sun is out to -20 when it sets behind the mountains. It's like when someone turns off a switch: when the sun disappears it's awful because, with the fact that there are no rocks, just ice and snow, the temperature you have during the day doesn’t get trapped by the ground, which would able to hold for a while the warmth of the sun. The nights are therefore quite long and you need a lot of energy just to protect yourself from the cold.
How was your daily routine? We woke up very early every the morning to reach the mountain that Sam and Jérémie wanted to ski, and then we returned to the camp quite early, around lunch time: we ate, rested and planned the next day. It was a fairly sedentary expedition, because from there we could really reach many peaks, Snow Lake is surrounded by mountains: all around there’s ice, seracs and crevasses. Some of these are not skiable, but most of them are, obviously depending on the snow and sun conditions. Having both the Sherpas and the cook with us, it was possible for us to concentrate only on skiing: at those temperatures and altitudes it is difficult to do everything, even melting the snow to get the water for cooking. Without a cook we would have spent our whole day melting snow for water and eating only freezedried food, instead we had real food. Waking up at 3am and finding your coffee ready instead of having to start melting snow puts you in a different mindset.
Snow Lake is a mountain plateau, when you're there it's all white around you, during the day it can be also quite hot, the real problem is during the night because it freezes.
You were in a rather wild and unexplored environment, there were certainly no shortage of dangers and you were a fairly large crew. What precautions did you take? All we knew for sure from the beginning was where to set up the base camp, we decided everything else there and in a very cautious way, always taking into consideration the snow conditions: we took a few days just to observe how the snow conditions changed. Sometimes we could see risk factors like avalanches and crevasses with our own eyes, other times it was important to look at all the signs on the mountain and slowly start moving. We gained confidence and slowly moved onto bigger mountains. In any case, we had always two guides with us, who monitored every aspect and were part of the decision-making process because clearly we are talking about a dangerous environment: there are avalanches, crevasses, seracs, so we moved along the face with ropes in groups of two or out of three, we always tried to climb as few people as possible, and we were very careful about safety throughout the shooting, no one was forced to do something they didn't feel like doing. Something bad can always happen in the mountains, but we have always take decisions very wisely and have put all our efforts into safety, trying to minimize risks.
The whole time you were at the base camp you were completely isolated… There were neither animals nor birds, nothing: only snow and ice. Luckily
we were a close-knit and well-matched group, we've all known each other for many years now: Sam and Jeremy for 10 years or maybe more, my first professional ski trip outside Europe was with them and it's when, let’s say, career started, one of the filmmakers is a friend of mine and the other two were the only outsiders, one Canadian and one American, but we were all united by one goal, so it worked out well. I'm not saying that there weren't discussions, because those are difficult situations anyway, but nothing that can't be solved, just the normal life of a base camp at 5000 meters high where you spend two weeks completely isolated from the rest of the world.
There were neither animals nor birds, nothing: only snow and ice. Luckily we were a close-knit and wellmatched group, we've all known each other for many years now: Sam and Jeremy for 10 years or maybe more, my first professional ski trip outside Europe was with them and it's when, let’s say, career started.
What kind of experience was from a photography's point of view? My goal was to take good pictures of the riders, I had no ambitions in terms of skiing, but in general the goal of the expedition was not to demonstrate something in terms of performance.
Today there are many more productions compared to the past, do you think that the athletes' approach is also increasingly moving towards the production of content? Certainly productions have increased, ours has been very big because the athletes had consistent sponsors such as Red Bull, it is not easy to find such budgets. Today, on the other hand, this kind of operations are simpler than in the past to set up, technology helps a lot: today everything is much lighter, from skis, to cameras and gear up to tents and sleeping bags, which, although very light, are warmer. In addition, until recently operators that deal with the logistics of these expeditions were used to summer tourism only, now they are also organizing themselves for winter tourism, which is an increasing business and a discreet source of income for them.
Pakistan is also experiencing its golden moment, how are the locals facing it? They see that there is a market, there are more and more high altitude porters, I can't say if it's an absolute positive thing, but it's happening. Not
only in Pakistan of course, but especially among the eight-thousander mass tourism that’s causing a lot of damage. The first time I was in Pakistan in winter we were practically alone, Sherpas were not used to take tourists to the glacier in winter: it was a truly out of the ordinary request for them, while in the last 5 years things have changed. I always wonder whether or not this is good for the mountains. In the end, even if we bring everything back down, we still produce waste, use ropes, take planes to get there, it's a somewhat complex issue and there’s not a simple solution.
The first time I was in Pakistan in winter we were practically alone, Sherpas were not used to take tourists to the glacier in winter: it was a truly out of the ordinary request for them, while in the last 5 years things have changed. I always wonder whether or not this is good for the mountains.
TEXT BRUNO COMPAGNET PHOTO LAYLA KERLEY
The flight is nice and our arrival in Trømso is greeted by the timid appearance of a weak sun that inflames the sea and the fjords between the mountains and the islands, piercing the monotonous layer of clouds. Our plane flew over the glaciers and the on bluish whiteness of the landscapes of the far north that we are happy to find again. I let growing in me the pleasure and melancholy that these landscapes never fail to awaken inside myself. Four years have passed since our last trip to these latitudes and since then the world has changed a lot... At that time gasoline cost 1.20 euros per liter and if we talk about global warming, ozone layer and mass instinct we could still easily ignore all the signs and live in the comforting illusion of a false stability… Covid had not yet appeared into our lives and the war at the borders of Europe was not on the news.
I immediately spot Thor in the distance, he's waiting for us at the baggage drop, with his hands in his pockets and the cold, detached attitude typical of those people who don't pretend to be like that. As soon as he sees us, he starts walking towards us smiling and he immediately takes Layla in his big carpenter arms before giving me a hug too. I leave them to the mutual pleasure of being reunited and I head towards the bag drop to get our ski bags that have just appeared. Twenty-three kilos per bag is quite a challenge when you think about going skiing on these mountains, not counting Layla's photographic gear.
Thor’s van is quite old and run down, but he is really happy with it because he bought it for very little and can sleep in it... A frugal existence and modest ambitions to find some free time, this is also what unites us beyond our passion for skiing. The roads are bumpy and I wonder if the van's suspension will hold up for
long. We take the road that leads to his family holiday house where a crackling wood stove and a boiling sauna await us. We have enough food and equipment for a few weeks. We pass through a landscape that makes us happy as it has not changed over time. As soon as we get out of the car, the air seems colder and crisper, a wintry atmosphere that we haven't really experienced in the Alps this winter season.
I quickly lose count of the days as I let myself be carried away by a pleasant daily routine. The wood stove I light early in the morning when the others are still asleep. The birch bark that catches fire quickly with a lively flame, spreading an enveloping warmth and a pleasant sound. Then I prepare a large Moka and the kitchen is quickly filled with the scent of coffee. No radio, no newspapers, I also forbid myself to watch the news on my cell phone, it's too depressing and anyway I will be overwhelmed by the media hype when we’ll return to France. I also sleep much better here and don't wake up in the middle of the night anxious thinking about my daughter and the awful world she will have to live in.
Thor and Layla join me and we linger over breakfast drinking coffee after coffee. This slow pace of our days suits us much more than an exotic trip on a boat in the heart of the fjords, which would cost a fortune anyway and which we would have to book two years in advance. We allow ourselves to savor the luxury of this slow and silent rhythm, made up of simple things… Toilets outside the house, no running water and electricity provided only by wind and sun (when there are)… All we need is a fireplace and enough wood for the sauna that we light when we return, frozen, from our trips in the mountains. And then we like to go on various road trips
with always one
A trip to the mountains where you can get lost and find yourself, but also a place where time seems to lengthen in the diffuse pallor of light with a thousand variations of grey and blue. A stay in the rural north, in a less postcard setting than Lofoten, right in the Lyngen Alps.
idea in mind but with the freedom to change everything at the last minute. This is also beautiful and it reminds me and Layla of our dawn walks along the Spanish coast in search of the perfect wave.
We still find winter conditions, the snow is good but the snowpack is unstable and the avalanche risk is very high. Since we have been here there have been many, with even some injured and dead. Lyngen and Lofoten are massifs upon which a kind of eternity rests and the possibility of skiing with a view on the north sea of the Arctic Circle attracts skiers from all over Europe. But these mountains, which ignore the passage of time, can be terribly dangerous when the snow is wet, and it is best to ski on gentle slopes that do not exceed thirty degrees of inclination. One of the main problems, in addition to tourists and the many tour operators offering hit and run stays, is the desire to live that dream that sometimes drives groups to go out every day… Here too, like in Chamonix, when the phone rings the first questions people ask themselves are: “Are they friends? Do we know them? Ok no, they’re just tourists, fine…” A certainly unpleasant but natural reaction if looking more closely at it, which does not prevent one or more people from ending their stay here hit by avalanches with perhaps some broken ribs. Here, as everywhere, there can be accidents also linked to the attitude and behavior of people in the mountains... But it's always easy to talk or write afterwards, what would our decisions have been in their place?
We progress at a rather slow but regular pace, free from certain constraints which can sometimes condition our choices and even our times in the Alps. There is no one on this mountain that is a little further inland compared to others, away from the fjords and the whole world. In April, with clear and cold weather, the days slowly lengthen, the shadows and time seem frozen in a white immensity. The daylight that gradually shortens the nights has changed our perception of time passing more slowly. Sky and land become more visible. You can experience a simple and profound joy in entering this place sculpted by ice and covered in snow, in these landscapes illuminated by an infinity of luminous variations, where sometimes you can ski in the morning grey which the wind will then carry away to reveal a dazzling world that shimmers like the fur of an ermine under a clear blue sky, only to veil itself again soon after. We are reluctant to break the silence that I sometimes feel like the fourth person of our group and in which we float most of the time, preferring the murmur of the wind in our ears that invades our thoughts and signals its presence. We are delighted by the simplicity of the landscape. The cold, windy, crusty, icy, light or soft snow that sings under our skis sends us an infinite number of sounds and messages that we listen to, mixing with the one of our breath. We cross beautiful birch forests and rivers, we face slopes, we follow ridges that stretch as far as the eye can see, we project ourselves into a space that seems infinite... Sometimes we reach the top. But in the end we don't need to get anywhere and we are happy to stop about fifty meters below the summit for having a better visibility and a more pleasant descent. Because we are
Lyngen and Lofoten are massifs upon which a kind of eternity rests and the possibility of skiing with a view on the north sea of the Arctic Circle attracts skiers from all over Europe.
above all skiers and our ascents are intended only for the joy and pleasure of the sequence of curves that make up the music sheet of our descents. Each curve is designed to make the most of the qualities of the snow and the pleasure of feeling the terrain and dancing with gravity. We rediscover the pleasure of skiing slowly, adapting to the snow and visibility. Or we unite our curves by abandoning ourselves to the present moment. Sometimes I have this image that comes to mind of my aikido instructor in Arreau, in the Pyrenees, who drew curves with supernatural fluidity with his three-dimensional bokken. Tirelessly repeating the movement and trying to get closer to an ever elusive perfection. It is the snow that dictates our choices, we often make long easy descents on soft snow. We have completely immersed ourselves in this environment and are adapting while waiting for a warmth that will deeply modify the snowpack, giving us the opportunity to ski beautiful lines in the mountains.
We pass by the village where we sometimes go to check our mail and have a bad coffee, then leave the main highway and take a secondary road. We continue past a frozen lake and a wooded hill. A snowboard and Nordic ski facility in the middle of the woods, as well as the number on the mailbox, confirms that we have arrived at our destination. I hadn't seen Torkel for years, the last time was in the Dolomites. It was one of those winters where avalanches wiped out roads, ski lifts and even buildings... Our relationship began here in Lofoten in 2007. At the time, Henningsvær was not a very well known or busy place in the middle of winter, and the Norwegian brand with its bright colors and colorful waterproof zips had got into the habit of organizing photo sessions with its team of riders. Today we both have children and we both have called our daughters Minna, without consulting each others. In addition to their first names, they also share the same passion for snowboarding. After the coffee, Torkel
prepares his bag and we are ready to set off to discover his secret garden for one of those days that will make us want to come back here, despite the still uncertain weather and conditions. We don't cross a single trace on the snow (apart the one of a wolverine), we don't see anyone during the whole day and for us, in addition to the snow and the good weather, this solitude and this isolation are an incredible added value to our experience. We share a few beers at the end of the afternoon around the BBQ watching the sun struggle while sinking beyond the horizon, eating fish pancakes, fatsaturated sausages and other Norwegian specialties that we fill with ketchup and mustard. Then we say goodbye to Torkel who returns with his children towards the woods of his home…
It's 4.38am and I go out to pee in front of the house, the stars have long, the sun is already coloring the peaks around the valley and there isn't a cloud in the sky. I go back inside and wake up everyone. While we're on the road, I think about the many times I've tried to reach the top of this massif without success. The last attempt was one of the most demanding one due to the difficult snow conditions and the bad weather which had forced us to spend four hours in a snow hole listening to the wind blowing up and sweeping away, little by little, our desire and motivation. We always hoped for a window of good weather but our mood was already low and then the clouds parted to give way to a polar atmosphere that accompanied our retreat from the fjord... Today is a different story, weather and snow conditions seem good and the long climb is pleasant. After 6 and half hours we reach a flat top the size of several rugby pitches, swept by a steady wind that has turned the snow into ptarmigan feathers, as Layla observes. We didn't define anything in advance about the descent, we decided to evaluate once there and choose between the many options offered by this beautiful mountain. Our decision falls on the
western couloir, a long canal over a thousand meters high which we attacked at the right moment but which would have deserved a few more days of wait. Despite everything, the soft and crumbly snow offers us a beautiful descent and a long adventure. The immense slope that runs under a ridge of rocks develops into gigantic slabs of ice beaten by the wind and which the sun causes to melt, hitting us regularly as we descend from the cliff on the right... A long and relatively steep nofall zone that takes some effort. We hit a series of crazy curves that we are happy to forget as we head to buy beers and chips on the way back. This too takes some time but we let it slide slowly. The freeway is still far away, even the adrenaline begins to vanish and we stop under a beautiful pine tree. We wallow on a thick carpet of mosses and lichens, we devour our sandwiches, appreciating the effort of this long day. With my head resting on my bag, I stare off into the distance as we say something stupid.
The engine is running and I'm the last one to get into the front seat of the van. Snowflakes escape from the belly of clouds that the wind carries to hell. I don't think that's a good omen. The low fog that has formed because of the cold transforms an environment that has become familiar into a hostile landscape. Then the sun pierces the haze like a yellow evil eye before disappearing into the storm. The scenery flows behind the misted windows… The noise of the engine and the scraping of the wiper on the completely clouded windscreen accompany the crackling of the radio wonderfully, but nobody seems to be disturbed by these distressing sounds. We park and walk along the road, dark again and wet because of the melting snow. On the slopes, the snow is dirty and mixed with fine gravel. The powder is very wet in the birch forest, the snowpack is heavy, sticky… Then the slope straightens out without significant changes in the quality of the snow. The sweat of our effort joins the wet flakes that turn my jacket and base layer into an oven in which I'll marinate until the first
ridge, where we'll change into the blizzard. Our skins are soaked and now that the storm is over, the cold snow accumulates so much that we have to remove it regularly. I smile as I hear Thor stopping and cursing as he takes off his skis... Oddly enough Layla is luckier than us and she doesn't have this problem. The fifteen centimeters of cold snow placed on a hard and icy ground make progression difficult, the skis slip and pull me on my hips and knees, we follow a ridge with a high profile but dotted with black rocks and swept by gusts that also slap us in the face. The canal entrance is not easy to find. The presence of a large number of belay ropes, more or less baked by the sun and ice, surrounding a rock that we cleared of the snow with an ice ax, confirms that we are in the right place. Thor descends first while I hold Layla by the harness while she’s suspended into the void so that she can immortalize these intense moments. After a while the tension in the rope disappears. I shout out to Thor to know what the snow conditions are in the couloir… “It looks great” he replies. I call out to Layla, while wondering if we're doing something stupid. Even a narrow couloir can be tricky to manage in these blustery conditions… Hanging from the rope, I watch Layla and Thor atop the swath of snow plunging between the rock faces, then see them quickly disappear. We don't talk much, united by the language of silence activated by the will of intention. Thor takes it easy, he turns steadily and optimally… Things are slowly starting to feel good again. This will also be the highlight of our stay. That we will end with a very good impression. Returning to the road and to the car, we watch the mountains stealthily reveal themselves. A world of solitude in perpetual change.
On the morning of the departure, it snows a lot, a storm is coming and it will surely give Thor and his friends some wonderful days on skis... We promise to do everything we can to come back to these mountains that grow as the sky changes, in this place at the end of the world.
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BOUTIQUE HOTEL NIVES 1690.
CHALET ELISABETH 1691.
GRANBAITA DOLOMITES 1692. HOTEL AARITZ 1693. HOTEL ACADIA 1694.
HOTEL ALPENROYAL 1695. HOTEL ANTARES 1696. HOTEL CHALET S 1697. HOTEL CONTINENTAL 1698. HOTEL DORFER 1699. HOTEL FANES 1700. HOTEL FREINA 1701.
HOTEL GARNI DOLOMIEU 1702.
HOTEL GENZIANA 1703.
HOTEL MIRAVALLE 1704.
HOTEL OSWALD 1705.
HOTEL PORTILLO DOLOMITES 1706. HOTEL SOMONT 1707.
HOTEL SUN VALLEY 1708. HOTEL TYROL 1709.
HOTEL WELPONER 1710.
LUXURY CHALET PLAZOLA 1711. MOUNTAIN DESIGN HOTEL 1712.
MOUNTAIN HOME VILLA ANNA 1713. RESIDENCE ISABELL 1714. RESIDENCE VILLA FUNTANES 1715. RESIDENCE VILLA GRAN BAITA 1716. THE LAURIN SMALL&CHARMING 1717. WELLNESS RESIDENCE VILLA 1718. RESIDENCE VILLA AL SOLE 1719. HOTEL TRE CIME SESTO 1720. ALPENWELLNESSHOTEL ST.VEIT 1721. APARTMENTS RIEGA 1722. BERGHOTEL SEXTEN 1723.
Learning to orient yourself in nature is the beginning of a path of liberation. It is a compelling and fascinating act, which reveals forgotten potential to those who immerse themselves in it with deep involvement and trust.
This is the precious teaching that Franco Michieli received during decades of explorations in numerous environments of the earth. In his book "To find yourself, you must first get lost" he offers us the basis for reviving an exploratory gaze in us, interpreting the environment through the senses and the cognitive skills that each of us possesses, accepting that natural events play
their part, in giving us answers and pointing out possible ways. Without the need for technological prostheses. The sun, the stars, the mountains, the rivers, the coasts, the winds, the vegetation, the sounds and much more act as compasses and maps, even in the forest or in the fog, if you learn to read them. In any search it is possible to get lost. But that’s temporary when you know how to wait for an opening. Then not only you do find yourself but you experience something new, powerful and unexpected that the safe road would never have revealed.
“Humanity has lost its way. Since civilization was born, the awareness of a
mistake along the way that puts life in crisis has emerged insistently, in sacred stories, myths, great poems. (..) We have built all sorts of straight paths, which can be used instantly, along which you learn nothing. And we have lost the forest, with its thousand mysteries, so much so that we jump aimlessly in the void of virtuality. So is it in nature that we could relearn how to orient ourselves, not by remote control, but by reestablishing a conscious gaze on the world? (..) If we regain confidence in the concrete reading of the Earth, perhaps we will be able to bring the method into the civil and social context as well.”
