The Book of New Israeil Food

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the street and the market

vegetables

Open Air Markets Israel is part of the Middle East, and in the Middle East the

accordingly, from budget clothes to organic herbs, from

open-air market, also known as the souk, is one of the most

boutique cheeses to exotic products from the Far East.

popular forms of commerce. Even today when supermarkets

Mahane-Yehuda is Jerusalem to the core. Shoppers and

are preferred for everyday shopping, the souk retains its

vendors have known each other for years. There are fewer

charm and attracts both shoppers and sightseers.

stalls with trendy fancy vegetables and a larger range

The open-air markets are first and foremost food markets. As

of authentic balladi produce. Most of the shoppers are

such, they are intimately tied to local cuisine. Housewives,

housewives, mainly Sephardic, and the vast majority of the

chefs and restaurant owners, locals and tourists all flock

goods are strictly kosher.

to the stands in search of fresh produce and other food

Other prominent food markets are the Hatikva Market

products. As markets evolve into tourist attractions, many

in south Tel Aviv, the Bukharian Market in Jerusalem, the

stands are adding ready-to-eat street food to their usual

markets in Netanya, Hadera, Rosh-Ha’ayin and Haifa, and

offerings, giving visitors a taste of the local fare.

the Bedouin Market in Be’er-Sheva. When visiting northern

Produce is fresh and accessible and you can touch and

Israel you shouldn’t miss souks in Nazareth and Old Acre,

select fruits and vegetables at your leisure. Butchers offer

both brimming with exotic goods and flavors of the Middle

freshly-slaughtered chickens, complete with feet, feathers

East. And of course there is the Old City of Jerusalem with

and cockscombs. Fishmongers will net the carp you point to

its huge rambling bazaar that covers a sizable portion of

in a tank, and gut and clean it for you. Prices are negotiable

the ancient quarters. One can easily get lost in its winding

and haggling is the norm. Vendors often employ funny songs

alleys − the scenery, the atmosphere and the goods change

and other theatrics to promote their goods. The atmosphere

as you move from the butchers market to the perfumes, the

is dense, casually familiar, cheerful and noisy, with added

goldsmiths, the leather workers, the food.

urgency as the weekend draws near.

Another souk worth visiting is the Lewinski Market in south

Most markets are permanent and offer a wide range of

Tel Aviv. No longer confined to its original building, it has

goods: from fresh produce to illegally-copied DVDs, from

spilled over into nearby streets with exotic spices, dried fruits,

inexpensive textiles to fresh fish and poultry, from household

legumes, nuts, rice and pasta, smoked, pickled and dried

goods to flowers, from wallets to freshly baked breads.

fish, olives, pickles, oils, and ethnic pastries. Foodies and

The two most picturesque general markets are the Carmel

chefs come here to buy Greek olives, real lakerda (Turkish

Market in Tel Aviv (founded in 1927) and Mahane-Yehuda in

pickled fish), dried Persian lemons and rare condiments.

Jerusalem (founded in 1928). Both are primarily food markets

Finally, there are the roving markets that operate at a different

with the emphasis on fresh produce, and yet each reflects

venue each day of the week. A prominent example is the

the unique character of its city. The clientele of the Carmel

Ramla-Lod market. Once a popular local market in Ramla, it

Market is a heady mix of sophisticated urban types, foreign

can now be found at a different announced location each

workers (mainly from Southeast Asia), new immigrants

weekday. A lovely market operates on weekends in Ma’alot

(mostly from the former Soviet Union), and inhabitants of

Tarshicha in the Western Galilee, amicably shared by Arab

the neighboring Yemenite Quarter. The offerings range,

and Jewish vendors and farmers.

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Prices are negotiable and haggling is the norm. Vendors often employ funny songs and other theatrics to promote their goods. The atmosphere is dense, casually familiar, cheerful and noisy, with added urgency as the weekend draws near.

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