the street and the market
vegetables
Open Air Markets Israel is part of the Middle East, and in the Middle East the
accordingly, from budget clothes to organic herbs, from
open-air market, also known as the souk, is one of the most
boutique cheeses to exotic products from the Far East.
popular forms of commerce. Even today when supermarkets
Mahane-Yehuda is Jerusalem to the core. Shoppers and
are preferred for everyday shopping, the souk retains its
vendors have known each other for years. There are fewer
charm and attracts both shoppers and sightseers.
stalls with trendy fancy vegetables and a larger range
The open-air markets are first and foremost food markets. As
of authentic balladi produce. Most of the shoppers are
such, they are intimately tied to local cuisine. Housewives,
housewives, mainly Sephardic, and the vast majority of the
chefs and restaurant owners, locals and tourists all flock
goods are strictly kosher.
to the stands in search of fresh produce and other food
Other prominent food markets are the Hatikva Market
products. As markets evolve into tourist attractions, many
in south Tel Aviv, the Bukharian Market in Jerusalem, the
stands are adding ready-to-eat street food to their usual
markets in Netanya, Hadera, Rosh-Ha’ayin and Haifa, and
offerings, giving visitors a taste of the local fare.
the Bedouin Market in Be’er-Sheva. When visiting northern
Produce is fresh and accessible and you can touch and
Israel you shouldn’t miss souks in Nazareth and Old Acre,
select fruits and vegetables at your leisure. Butchers offer
both brimming with exotic goods and flavors of the Middle
freshly-slaughtered chickens, complete with feet, feathers
East. And of course there is the Old City of Jerusalem with
and cockscombs. Fishmongers will net the carp you point to
its huge rambling bazaar that covers a sizable portion of
in a tank, and gut and clean it for you. Prices are negotiable
the ancient quarters. One can easily get lost in its winding
and haggling is the norm. Vendors often employ funny songs
alleys − the scenery, the atmosphere and the goods change
and other theatrics to promote their goods. The atmosphere
as you move from the butchers market to the perfumes, the
is dense, casually familiar, cheerful and noisy, with added
goldsmiths, the leather workers, the food.
urgency as the weekend draws near.
Another souk worth visiting is the Lewinski Market in south
Most markets are permanent and offer a wide range of
Tel Aviv. No longer confined to its original building, it has
goods: from fresh produce to illegally-copied DVDs, from
spilled over into nearby streets with exotic spices, dried fruits,
inexpensive textiles to fresh fish and poultry, from household
legumes, nuts, rice and pasta, smoked, pickled and dried
goods to flowers, from wallets to freshly baked breads.
fish, olives, pickles, oils, and ethnic pastries. Foodies and
The two most picturesque general markets are the Carmel
chefs come here to buy Greek olives, real lakerda (Turkish
Market in Tel Aviv (founded in 1927) and Mahane-Yehuda in
pickled fish), dried Persian lemons and rare condiments.
Jerusalem (founded in 1928). Both are primarily food markets
Finally, there are the roving markets that operate at a different
with the emphasis on fresh produce, and yet each reflects
venue each day of the week. A prominent example is the
the unique character of its city. The clientele of the Carmel
Ramla-Lod market. Once a popular local market in Ramla, it
Market is a heady mix of sophisticated urban types, foreign
can now be found at a different announced location each
workers (mainly from Southeast Asia), new immigrants
weekday. A lovely market operates on weekends in Ma’alot
(mostly from the former Soviet Union), and inhabitants of
Tarshicha in the Western Galilee, amicably shared by Arab
the neighboring Yemenite Quarter. The offerings range,
and Jewish vendors and farmers.
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Prices are negotiable and haggling is the norm. Vendors often employ funny songs and other theatrics to promote their goods. The atmosphere is dense, casually familiar, cheerful and noisy, with added urgency as the weekend draws near.
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