URBAN 23SEP 2011 $S3.00
Exclusive!
INTERVIEW WITH WILL STEIN AND HIS BAG
5
ESSENTIAL
MAKE-UP BRUSHES
SLICK BEAUTY OIL -BASED BEAUTY PRODUCTS
SISTER’S ACT
SISTER’S WHO MAY WELL UPSTAGE THEIR CELEBRITY SIBLINGS
LONDONFASHIONWEEK
ANDROGYNOUS LOOK SHOW SURPRISES
Sports FASHION SPORTS-INSPIRED DESIGNS GO GLAM
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CO NTEN TS
feature beauty fashion man lifestyle
22 sport on
Featuring sports inspired fashionwear in 2 different kinds. The dancer & footballer.
12 make up brushes 14 slick beauty
18 london fashion week 20 style watch
30 that beard look 32 making the cut 34 sister’s act 36 the bag page with will
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URBAN Editor-in -chief Imran Jahal Fashion Director Bertha Henson Art Director Tee Hun Ching Editorial Features Editor Sharon Loh Sub-editor Rohaizatul Azhar Fashion Editor Karen Tee Beauty Editor Gladys Chung Fashion Assistant Imran Jalal Editorial Assistant Ashleigh Sim Contributors Desmond Foo Lee Yee Hwa Suzanne Sng Interns Mak Mun San Yu Sheng Sin
Art Senior Graphic Designer Tong Ming Chien Graphic Designer June Green Photographers Julie Kee Senior Digital Imaging Artist Jeffrey Ang Digital Imaging Artists James Jr Quek Sally Lam
Publishing Director Jaster Ngui Sales and Marketing Group Advertising Director Zulaiha Jumari Key Accounts Directors Imran Jalal Advertising Manager Ashleigh Sim Account Manager Desmond Foo Promotions Executive Lee Yee Hwa Marketing Assistant Suzanne Sng Advertising Coordinator Mak Mun San Production Production Manager Yu Sheng Sin Advertising Production Executive Zulaiha Jumari Commercial Director Imran Jalal Corporate Finance Manager Ashleigh Sim Assistant Accountant Desmond Foo Accounts Assistant Lee Yee Hwa Office Manager Suzanne Sng Exectutive Assistant Mak Mun San Senior Support Analyst Yu Sheng Sin Chief Executive Officer Suzanne Sng For editorial inquiries, please contact: Badariah Abd Ghaffar 6319-2199 | For advertisement inquiries, please contact: Timothy Lim 6319-1614, William Tan 6319-1628, Augustine Chui 6319-2052, Jeanne Cheah 6319-1670, Martin Boey 63191920, Jack Andrew Wong 6319-1610 The publisher, authors and contributors reserve their rights in regards to copyright of their work. No part of this work covered by the copyright may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means without the written consent f the publisher. No person, organization or party should rely or on any way act upon any part of the contents of this publication whether that information is sourced from the website, magazine or related product without first obtaining the advice of a fully qualified person.This magazine and its related website and products are sold and distributed on the terms and condition that:The publisher, contributors, editors and related parties are not responsible in any way for the actions or results taken any person, organisation or any party on basis of reading information, stories or contributions in this publication, website or related product. The publisher, contributors and related parties are not engaged in providing legal, financial or professional advice or services. The publisher, contributors, editors and consultants disclaim any and all liability and responsibility to any person or party, be they a purchaser, reader, advertiser or consumer of this publication or not in regards to the consequences and outcomes of anything done or omitted being in reliance whether partly or solely on the contents of this publication ands related website and products. The publisher, editors, contributors and related parties shall have no esponsibility for any action or omission by any other contributor, consultant, editor or related party.
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editor’s letter D
uring an interview with a top male model not too long ago, I found myself distracted by man-whiskers sprouting from above his upper lip. Mind you, these were of the wispy variety you would most likely spot on an Ah Pek in Chinatown, not on a supermodel. If your hairs are standing reading this, imagine having to see them up close and personal. Which set me thinking: Why does scraggly hair look so unattractive yet a full-blown beard is just about the most desirable accoutrement in men’s style today? All you cavemen types rejoice: The scruffy look is back in vogue. Once the reserve of biker daddies and redneck truckers, the facial pelt is a badge of honour, even if you work in an office. In Tinseltown, the proponents of caveman chic are everywhere – Shia LaBeouf, Ryan Reynolds, Ryan Gosling, Jon Hamm, Jake Gyllenhaal and (the original wolfman) Hugh Jackman have all been seen with manly fuzz. Some claim the draw is in its primal sex appeal. A recent study by personal grooming brand Remington concluded that one in five blokes feels sexier with facial stubble. The fairer sex does not seem to agree though. According to a poll by market research firm Harris Interactive, only a third of women adore men with beards. So if it’s not to attract women, why do it? I think the reason beards are back in is that they are the
last frontier of masculine style men can lay claim to. Now that women have infringed every inch of male sartorial territory – from pixie crops to boyfriend jeans and blazers – facial fur is about the only thing privy to us men. Women, on the other hand, have to covet their mink coats. Which is why I have developed a follicle complex. The one thing I failed to inherit from my dad is the genetic ability to grow a healthy bush of facial hair. For as long as I can remember, my old man has sported different permutations of the beard. It was a Bob Marley-esque shrug in the 1980s which he has since shed for a distinguished salt and pepper look a la George Clooney and Robert Downey Jr. Me? I have to settle for patchy strands poking from my chin and jaw. Maybe that was why that model made me uncomfortable – the image hit too close to home. When even a top model cannot carry off the look, what chance does an average Joe have? The battle over beard wages on. The fashion cognoscenti recently gathered for a roundtable discussion titled “Whisker Wars” at upscale department store Bergdorf Goodman during the annual Fashion Night Out event in New York City. Likewise, we go to the root of the hairy issue and show you how – and if – you should be swayed by all that fuzz. .
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At the 63rd annual Emmy Awards yesterday, American actress Claire Danes was clearly one of the bestdressed in a blue strapless sequinned gown from Oscar de la Renta's 2012 Resort collection. Here's what some of you say of her look: KaraRii Lee: Not only was her outfit No. 1, her looks and her acting skills 1 can still remember watching her in Terminator 3, Huixian Lu: Interesting dress, but her make-up makes her look kind of witchy.
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CLUBWEAR The pop-art inspired fall/winter range from British cult label KTZ is now available at 01-05 Topshop Knightsbridge. Prices range from $169 for a T-shirt to $999 for a jacket. Known for its outlandish clubbing gear, the label counts Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj, Fergie and K-pop group Super Junior as ardent fans. KTZ is one of many up-and-coming labels supported by Topshop through its fashion design platforms, Emerge and New Gen. In Britain, KTZ and other labels, such as Jonathan Saunders and Louise Gray, are stocked at Topshop’s Oxford Circus flagship store.
fash flash
WINNING LOOKS
OBJECT OF DESIRE
Add a dash of colour to your corporate get-up with this red Porte-Document Voyage men's bag from Louis Vuitton ($3,150). Made of butter-soft calf leather, the structured document bag fits a laptop and other work files. While it also comes in onyx for the conservative (read: boring) lads we reckon to be the leader of the rat race, you've got to take some risks. This bag is the perfect start. Available at Louis Vuitton Island Maison, B1 -3 8 Crystal Pavilion at Marina Bay Sands.
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A team from Britain has won the first World Runway Premiere: Fashionquake Aid styling competition, which aims to unearth new talent in the fashion industry. Held on Sunday at the Singapore Indoor Stadium, the event saw teams of three from eight countries vying for the grand prize of $100,000. Online entrepreneur Kien Lee, 35, has won the Dress Me For The Finale design competition. (design top). Organised by Hugo Boss and German car maker McLaren, the online contest drew 137 designs for Vodafone McLaren Mercedes Formula 1 drivers Jenson Button and worn by both drivers during the qualifying race tomorrow. Lewis Hamilton.
PICTURE PERFECT
Fujifilm does not just manufacture photographic film and photocopy machines – it also produces beauty products. Astalift, the brand's second beauty line, was launched in 2007 in Japan. Its star product, the Jelly Aquarysta, was introduced in Japan last September and about one million jars have been sold. Available at Astalift’s flagship boutique at 02-04 The Centrepoint, prices range from $42 for the cleansing gel to $148 for the Jelly Aquarysta. Astalift's ambassador is Japanese pop star Seiko Matsuda.
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MAKE-UP BRUSHES
What is the difference between make-up brushes made of synthetic and natural fibres?
by Karen Tee
B
rushes made of natural animal hairs may be more expensive if they come from rare animals. For example, Shu Uemura has a range of brushes containing kolinsky (a rare type of weasel) hair, which are priced from $86. Other common animal hairs used in brushes include goat, pony and squirrel. However, price is not necessarily an indicator of the quality — different types of bristles work better with different mediums. In general, freelance make-up artist Larry Yeo says synthetic brushes are better for liquid, cream and gel products, while natural hair brushes work better with powders, both pressed and loose. This is because synthetic brushes are easier to clean without damaging the fibres of the brush, which makes them more suitable for using with liquids and creams as these tend to stick more strongly to the bristles. Natural hairs, however, have tapered ends and cuticles, which allow powders to be held within the brush without sliding off too quickly. This allows the user to transfer the powder to her face more effectively, says Ms Maz Ismail, Shu
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Uemura’s elite make-up artist. Another key difference between natural and synthetic hairs is that synthetic hairs tend to be stiffer. This means synthetic hairs are better at distributing products with thicker consistencies such as creams and liquids. One thing you should consider before buying makeup brushes is how tightly packed the bristles are. Your choice has nothing to do with the type of hair used, but depends on what you will use the brush for. Tightly packed bristles will allow you to transfer more product on your skin for more intense colour or coverage, says Mr Yea. The fluffier the brush, the easier it is to build coverage as each swipe will deposit a light layer of product on your face. As the quality of the brush varies between manufacturers, Ms Ismail and freelance make-up artist Dollei Seah offer some tips on how to pick one that will withstand the rigours of frequent use: • The bristles should feel soft on dour skin and should not scratch. • There should not be too many stray bristles sticking out of the brush
head as a precisely shaped brush is necessary for good application. • Stroke the brush across the top of your hand a few times to check how securely fastened the bristles are to the handle. • A few loose hairs are okay but if more strands come loose the more you brush, do not buy the brush. • The bristles should not be too long or you will not be able to control the brush. Eyeshadow, eyeliner and lip brushes should have bristles no longer than 1.5cm. Those on blush brushes should not exceed 4cm and powder brush bristles should be within 5cm. Hygiene is also essential as the leftover product on bristles makes them prime breeding ground for bacteria. You should wash your brushes after each use if you use liquids, creams or gel and at least once every three to four days if you use powders. Brush cleansers are available from brands including M.A.C, Shu Uemura and Sephora. Otherwise, swirl your brush in a mild shampoo diluted with water and rinse it before leaving it out to dry. •
For professional results, here are five make-up brushes you should own:
01
Loose powder brush
This fluffy brush made of goat's hair is great for applying a light, even dusting of powder as the finishing touch.
Lineage Loose Powder Brush, $48
02
Blusher brush
Made of squirrel hair, this brush has a rounded head which makes it ideal for sweeping and blending blush onto the cheek contours without uneven streaks.
03
Eyeshadow brush
Made from a mix of sable and kolinsky hairs, this brush is sized to fit the contours of the eyelid so that eyeshadow is expertly delivered with each swipe.
04
Shu Uernura Natural Brush 10, $106
Eyeliner brush
This fine-tipped brush made of synthetic fibres help create an even line on your lids using cream or liquid eyeliner.
05
RMK Cheek Brush, $65
MAC Eyeliner Brush 209, $36
S. Lip brush
The stiff synthetic fibres of this brush pick up a generous amount of lip product so you get intense colour easily.
Sephora Classic Lip Brush 61, $20 23sep’11/URBAN
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SLICK BEAUTY
oil based
nourishment
Although they sound unconventional, oil-based skin and haircare products are fast gaining popularity. by Karen Tee
F
Do you know? Shu Uemura was the first major beauty brand to adapt oil as more than a hydrating substance when it launched the Skin Purifier makeup cleansing oil in the 1950s. Shu Uemura's bestseller now comes in six variations and the Japanese brand estimates that one bottle is sold every 15 seconds worldwide.
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ancy shampooing your hair with oil? How about slathering your face with it? It seems to run counter to the common “squeaky clean” wisdom but oil-based balms for the hair, face and body are the rage in beauty land. In the last six months, at least three, brands touting only oil-based products have launched here: Shu Uemura’s new Art Of Hair brand offers 13 products, including shampoos and hair masks, which contain oil extracts from various Japanese flowers; Italian brand Olivella uses olive oil as the key ingredient for its 23 products such as a hand cream and a body lotion; and South African brand Bio-Oil has a multi-purpose oil for the face and body. But using oil in beauty rituals’is not new. Women around the world have long used botanical oils such as argan, coconut and olive oil to beautify their skin and hair. The new wave of oilbased products goes beyond those for facial cleansing to encompass products for all skincare needs. The brands behind them say the skin and hair need oil to look healthy, lustrous and supple, and these products supplement what the body may not be able to produce enough of. American dermatologist Sherry Hsiung, a director at the Skin Institute of New York in New York City,
tells Urban in an e-mail interview: “The key to maintaining a youthful, clear complexion is to replenish the skin with oils that promote healthy skin function as well as to feed the skin oils to regulate its internal oil production. Although some question the use of oil in humid Singapore, where many already suffer from oily skin and hair, sales of the products have been encouraging. Still, concerns about oil-based products feeling greasy, clogging pores and causing ance are not unfounded. Dermatologist Cheong Lai Leng says oil-based products should be used by those who have dry and flaky skin or those who are exposed to an environment with low humidity levels. However, those who have oily skin or are acne-prone should avoid such products, especially on the face, chest and back where the density of oil glands is highest, she advises. She warns that oil-based products are one of the causes of a form of breakouts, which dermatologists term as acne cosmetica or pomade acne. Similarly, hair products with oil are not suitable for those with oily scalps as they could cause pimples to form along the hairline and on the forehead. •
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Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Eye $36, from next month This companion eye product to the Midnight Recovery Concentrate is gentle enough to be used on the eye area. It contains a blend of essential oils – including lavender, evening primrose and squalane – that are said to reinforce the skin's natural barrier function. Don’t apply too much facial oil as it could feel sticky or, worse, cause breakouts. Two to three drops are enough for your whole face. Pat your hands to spread the oil evenly before using your fingertips to gently press the oil onto your chin, cheeks and forehead. Apply only to the drier parts of your face, such as your cheeks, while avoiding the oilier T-zone. Get used to the slightly emollient feeling on your skin after using a cleansing oil.
Shu Uemura Art Of Hair Moisture Velvet Nourishing Treatment For Dry Hair, $92
from Action Hair Boutique, B 1-149 Marina Bay Sands
This mask is enriched with camellia oil, which is traditionally used by Japanese women to soften and smoothen their hair. Leave in hair for 10 minutes after shampooing before rinsing. You can massage hair oils into wet hair to soften and moisturise the hair strands thoroughly. You can also tame frizzy hair when it is dry: Spread a drop or two of oil on your hands and run it lightly over the surface of your hair. Do not use oily haircare products if you have oily scalp and skin. Instead, apply treatment oils where needed, which is typically at the hair tips as they tend to be the most damaged.
oil for your hair, face, body
URBAN shows you how to make the most out of your oil-based beauty products.
Dove Nourishing Oil Care Shampoo, $7.70, from major supermarkets
Care for dry tresses with this shampoo enriched with what the brand terms Nutri Oil. This is a blend of almond, coconut and mineral oils which have been chosen for their ability to penetrate hair quickly without leaving a greasy residue.
Lierac Sensory Oil With 3 White Flowers $ 68,
from Robinson and John Little This fragrant oil is a multi-purpose product which works on the body, face and hair. It contains argan, sweet almond and hazelnut oil to keep the skin moisturised. It can also be used as a bath oil –dispense a few pumps of it into a tub of water and watch it turn into a milk bath.
Bio-Oil,$15.50
Clarins HydraQuench Bi-Phase Serum, $94
This serum contains Inca peanut oil extract, which is rich in fatty acids and is said to strengthen the skin's protective oil barrier to minimise moisture loss.
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from Watsons and Guardian This face and body oil, a bestseller in 11 countries including Australia, Britain and Malaysia, touts itself as a multi-purpose salve for stretch marks, scars and uneven skin. It contains a blend of natural plant oils and vitamins A and E, which it claims is easily absorbed without leaving an oily residue.
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LONDON FASHION WEEK The androgynous look is revived wits modern twists at the recent London Fashion Week. But amid the unconventional use of floral and pastel explosions, the soft, modernist take on tailoring was one that stood out at this week’s London Fashion Week. by Sue-Wen Q
L
ondon’s designers have a tendency to march to their own beat, a habit that allows creativity to flourish but can make situating trends a difficult task. More than 40 years ago, Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking tuxedo launched a revolution for women who wanted masculine clothes. Few since have come close to achieving a similar impact. Instead, women borrow from their husbands’ and boyfriends’ wardrobes in an attempt to recreate a similar attitude. Finally, the standard androgyny of yesteryear is no longer, as fresh talent revives the look and British designers get the hang of modem-day power dressing. Suiting is covetable again and appealing even in the tropics. Simone Rocha, daughter of designer John Rocha, is potentially London’s new, young queen of tailoring. The 24-year-old Irish designer’s first stand alone show cleansed the feminine / masculine aesthetic by layering modernist materials and trapping antique-inspired lace within. “I would take the classic zombie (a three-quarter
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length overcoat) shape and make it contemporary through textures and the use of plastic and rubber,” the designer said post-show. Rendered in a lightweight sleeveless mac (right) or in the rubber collars that lifted oxford shirts, she handles classic cuts with an air of romantic sensuousness — a far throw from the seductive, no-nonsense androgyny spearheaded by women such as actress Marlene Dietrich. Maarten van der Horst might have caused a stir with tropical prints, but it was his riotous take on summer suits that caught the eye this season. Draining the colour from his Hawaiian extravaganza, the remaining black and white prints (left) had neon ruffle piping, which gave the suiting a hypermodern edge. The holiday feel did not detract from immaculate tailoring. The vibrant energy was also seen at Mary Katrantzou’s show, where she abstracted dense hues of floral fields and tin cans on trouser suits. Backstage, the Greek-born textile designer explained
it was about finding a perfect harmony between nature and nurture, organic and industrial. With signature trompe l’oeil (trick of the eye), she created a sharp look for vivacious women, as though to imply that if you should wear print, you must mean it. The one who adhered most closely to the rough-and-tumble London style was Paul Smith, whose straightforward approach persistently gathers a steady following. Perfectly slouchy, his fuss-free collection alternated between three trouser styles: slim and ankle-skimming, low-slung joggers and wide and high-waisted. They came in bright colours for the “edgy city girl” or light pastels for “the summer traveller”. As they strode out in a variety of silks, satins and georgettes to Nico’s velvet voice in All Tomorrow’s Parties, there was enough insouciance to fill the majestic Royal Horticultural Halls. The down-to-earth Brit certainly understands what women want. The winding road from ole days of Savile Row has reached a new milieu. •
show
surprises
Most pleasant surprise: Burberry Handmade, hand-woven and handcrafted are words not instantly associated with forward-thinking mega brand Burberry, but this was exactly what creative director Christopher Bailey had in mind for his show. “I love the contrast between the speed of technology and the time-consuming spirit of traditional skills,” the designer said after the show. In a beautiful collection, he provided something for everyone, a dangerous notion to begin with.
Yet it was anything but in disarray. The iconic trench, in an array of cuts from slim to full-skirted, was given the full artisanal works. Punchy colours ensured the effect was youthful. The Burberry appeal is the cool factor acquired over the decade on Bailey’s account, which made the star-studded front row and new model-It girl Cara Delevingne bookending the show almost just as relevant.
Most topical surprise: Mulberry Much has shaken Britain since the royal knees-up in April that it is easy to forget the impact the Duchess of Cambridge has made on fashion. She may not be an icon, especially to those who snub her style as plain, but Catherine Middleton’s influence gives many a reason to embrace the flirty, feminine look. Fittingly, it was a seaside carnival at Mulberry. From daytime Kate in flowing frocks and cropped parkas (divine in sherbet colours) to bejewelled Catherine for the evening cocktail, it seems creative director Emma Hill had the natural beauty in mind. 23sep’11/URBAN
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STYLE WATCH By Rohaizatul Azhar
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ritish actress Emma Watson (left) may be the darling of the fashion world but hot on the heels of her studded Pigalle Spikes Louboutins is American actress Chloe Moretz. The 14-year-old came to notice in last year’s teen flick, KickAss. The child star arrived at the party for her new movie, Hick, in Toronto on Sept 10 wearing a tartan frock from McQ by Alexander McQueen. Only four days earlier, 21-year-old Watson had channeled punk-chic in a similar dress, which she wore to the 2011 GQ Man Of The Year Awards in London. She completed the look with a leather biker jacket. So who wore it better? While we appreciate Watson’s commitment to staying in character with her boy-cut hair and leather jacket, she looked too over styled. Moretz, on the other hand, kept it simple in a pair of black booties which gave the look some edge. It was a fresher and more playful vibe — spot on for her age. The result: America — 1, Britain — 0
These head turners were spotted at the Gucci Artisan Corner cocktail party at Paragon on Sept 14 Sabrina Saith, 40s, artist WHAT ARE YOU WEARING? I bought my dress from a store in Wisma Atria and the heels from Cole Haan. The Bamboo bag is from Gucci. I bought the necklace from India. I don't remember how much they all cost. DESCRIBE YOUR SENSE OF STYLE. Eclectic. I don't wear designer labels from head to toe but choose clothes that I like, be they cheap or expensive. DO YOU THINK YOU'RE GOOD-LOOKING? Yes, because all women are born beautiful.
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Emma Watson VS Chloe Moretz
hey, good looking! Joseph Chong, 37, teacher WHAT ARE YOU WEARING? My jacket, velvet trousers and shoes are from Giorgio Armani. The knit shirt is from Gucci. I don’t remember how much they cost though DESCRIBE YOUR SENSE OF STYLE. I’m daring enough to try bold outfits such as a bright yellow or orange shirt. DO YOU THINK YOU'RE GOOD-LOOKING? I don’t think so but I look presentable. Handsome and good-looking are not in my vocabulary.
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UR BAN DA NCE R. Knee high socks and gymnast inspired cropped tops are a perfect example of the tomboy look revived. Strappy ballerina flats and leggings, a perfect example of the sports inspired fashion.
Photography PATRICK DEMARCHELIER Stylist NICOLETTA SANTORO
23sep’11/URBAN
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from casual,
to luxe
Sports-inspired fashion goes from casual to luxe and is now good enough for the office by ROHAIZATUL AZHAR
Sportswear is sprinting back into wardrobes — and we are not talking tees and tracksuits. This season’s sportswear fashion is about workoutready shapes in street-ready fabrics. In short, belonging everywhere but the gym. The term sportswear is commonly mistaken to mean sports apparel —which, incidentally, is now known as activewear. Instead, sportswear fashion draws inspiration from athletic gear without being too literal. For instance, the varsity jacket favoured by American footballers is made over in luxe fabrics such as duchess satin but retains the elasticised bands on its collar and wrists. What sportswear and exercise gear have in common are easy-to-wear separates made of machine-washable fabrics. Sportswear fashion also often features utilitarian details such as zippers, fastenings and pockets. So you are in luck if you like clean lines and fuss-free designs with a touch of luxury. On the runways, the fall/winter catwalks were sprinkled with sports references. Italian designer Riccardo Tischi tipped a nod to American football when he sent models out wearing varsity-style jackets over brocade-print dresses at Givenchy. Inspired by car racing, Phoebe Philo at Celine produced sleek lines and leather patchwork on clothes that recalled the hot rods of old. Meanwhile, models at Alexander Wang slipped into silk boxing shorts that were part Rocky Balboa, part Victoria’s Secret.
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FOOT BA - LL FA D.
Inspired by classic high school films such as Grease, feminine basics were paired with a look that is too cool for school. A funky alternative to patterned with jeans and anlde booties with wedge heels.
Photography NAKA SAGAI Stylist NICOLETTA SANTORO
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no sweat The sportswear-inspired trend is about being functional and practical but in a sexier, more grown-up way.
T
his trend is not about getting a good workout, although it helps to have a gym-toned body to pull off some of the looks. Says freelance fashion stylist Jumbos Wong: “The sportswear-inspired trend is about being functional and practical but in a sexier, more grown-up way. “You can definitely wear the look to the office. Just be mindful of the kinds of fabric. Always complete the look with heels as they give the ensemble a more luxe and dressy feel. You don’t want to look like a slob.” Sportswear fashion goes back to the 1920s, when it was used to describe the apparel typically worn by those playing sports such as tennis, football and baseball. It became the antithesis to the structured and art-like couture pieces of Parisian fashion. Mr Joe Spinelli, principal and programme director for fashion design at Raffles Design Institute, says: “The Americans started making sportswear for women as many started to take part in sports. “And because the Americans are all about comfort, they needed to create outfits that were easy to move in.”
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sportswear Early American designers, such as Clare Potter and Claire McCardell, created innovative designs that were simple, practical and wearable. Then in the 1980s, sportswear-inspired looks gained popularity as more designers gave their take on the trend. They included American designers such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Tommy Hilfiger, who created stylish but comfortable and interchangeable pieces of garments combining practicality with luxury. “Unlike the Italians or French, the Americans do not believe in suffering for fashion.That slowly evolved iino what we now know as American sportswear.” added Mr Spinelli. More designers, such as Stella McCartney and Hussein Chalayan, are collaborating with sports labels including Adidas and Puma. As a result, sports apparel — such as hoodies and sweatpants — have become a part of ready-to-wear. Mr Spinelli notes that sportswear today means pieces that are easy to put together and not overly dressy. Yet, they still look smart and polished. Ms Cindy Warsano, 25, a graduate of Lasalle College of the Arts, feels that sportswear has a bright future in fashion as consumers look increasingly for comfort and convenience. Her graduation collection, which was based on the classic sportswear silhouette, was named one of the 10 “best of class” works by London-based online trend forecaster, Worth Global Style Network, at the Graduate Fashion Show in London in May.
Says Ms Warsano: “The constant development of innovative fabrics such as dri-fit used predominantly in sportswear is key to its comfort, thus adding to its popularity. “Women should be allowed to look fashionable without sacrificing comfort.” Judging by the first looks at last week’s New York Fashion Week, designers agree. The subtle sportswear-inspired looks of fall 2011 opened the floodgates to a deluge of sportswear looks on the spring/ summer 2012 runways.
The best things about this trend have to be the effortless glamour and comfort factor, it’s the next step up from wearing a hoody and sweat pants but you are earning style points along the way. The key to this trend is keeping things relaxed and simple. Pair a loose fitted t shirt or a racer vest with a pair of jersey trousers, add a casual bun in your hair and subtle jewellery for a simple yet pretty look. •
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GETTING THAT MANLYBEARD LOOK THE DESIGNER SCRUFF (a la Hidetoshi Nakata)
20
mm is the maximum length should be kept at. Trim the growth every three days with a clipper. It should be kept tapered. Then neaten the job with a blade.
30
is the maximum amount of uses for that blade. A double-edged razor is your best friend. Razors with three or more blades tend to cut the skin with a single glide.
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imaginary line that runs down from one ear under the chin to the other ear.
The full beard is all the rage in machismo territory right now. But what is the naturally hairless Asian male to do? URBAN goes through the process of keeping that perfect facial hair and how it is part of your fashion statement. by Imran Jalal
W
hen former Japanese football star Hidetoshi Nakata turned up at the Louis Vuitton Island Maison party last Saturday, his best accessory was on his face. No, not his Clark Kent black-rimmed glasses but his perfectly manicured designer beard. The debonair 34-year-old was not the only celebrity who is into facial hair. From Chow Yun Fatt’s skunkcoloured chin fuzz to Godfrey Gao’s five o’clock shadow, there was nary a clean shave to be seen. On the other side of the world, oceans away, the grizzlies are out to play too. Among the new flock of Hollywood leading men who are currently sporting full beards are Ashton Kutcher, Brad Pitt and Ryan Gosling.
THE FULL BEARD (a la Jon Hamm)
01
time a week. Remember to trim but leave the top of the beard on your cheeks untouched for a natural look.Before you take a clipper to your facial hair, comb down the hairs to remove any tangles.
04
weeks waiting time for the stubble to grow out to get enough length for a decent trim. To stop any itching, shampoo or rub baby oil on your fuzz daily
25
mm from your Adam’s apple is where you top trimming. That’s where your beard ends, which separates the pros from the wannabes.
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Designers have also caught the beard bug. At least a dozen labels feature models in their fall campaigns with different permutations of facial hair. They include Paul Smith, Ben Sherman, Piombo, Louis Vuitton, J. Lindeberg, Vivienne Westwood and Woolrich. Riding on the revival of facial hair, websites such as Backyard Bill and Dressed For Dinner have sprung up in the past year to celebrate style mavens out and about without first taking a razor to their cheeks. As Mr Kevin Naulls, the Torontobased founder of Dressed For Dinner, wrote on the blog: “I hope to combat the stereotype that all men with facial hair are lazy and, therefore, void of any personal style or taste.” Mr Francis Aswin, who used to own the Ace Salon For Men at OUB Centre, says the full beard has shed its thuggish and scruffy connotations. “Even A-list actors, such as Johnny Depp, are sporting the style,” says Mr Aswin, now a marketing consultant. “The beard has become a means to express
making the cut
yourself and a fashion statement.” At home-grown men’s grooming specialist WhatHeWants, the growing interest in facial manscaping has led men to try Foltene, a hair and scalp treatment from Italy, to help facial hair growth. The company sells at least one unit of Foltene a day at its two stores. Its general manager, Mr Tan Seng Hwee, says: “Celebrities, such as David Beckham and Takeshi Kaneshiro, give local men the impression that beards can look manly.” Mr Bryan Teo, salon director of Essensuals Bugis Hairdressing, argues that men here do not need to despair ,over their sparse growth, as they can always achieve “that Craig David look”. “That is, they would grow a thin moustache. Then their sideburns and beard are trimmed to be a thin line so that they look like they are joined together,” he says. This look has gained popularity due to the influence of the Korean fashion and pop music scene, he adds. On the whole, however, the following for facial fuzz here is still small. At gentlemen’s
barber shop The Perfect Cut in The Regent Singapore, owner Leong Kee Sing, who has been in the trade for 48 years and charges $30 upwards for a shave, says practicality is the main reason. “The weather is hot and it can be itchy to keep a full beard. Unless your beard can grow thick enough, it’s difficult to get a nice design,” says the 65-year-old. This supports a 2009 poll by men’s grooming company Gillette, which found that most Asian men still prefer a clean-shaven look. Besides, going big on the beard does have its drawbacks. Dermatologist Eileen Tan, who wrote the book A Guide To Healthy Scalp And Hair, points out that acne and fungal infection may occur without proper hygiene as hair follicles are prone to infection and inflammation. If, despite all this, you still have the itch to grow a beard, help is available. Mr Teo says: “It doesn’t matter what your face shape or hair texture is. It’s all in the trimming technique.” •
These men run against the grain as they go from beaver trapper to smooth operator. The 40-year-old actor caught the eye of co-star Jennifer Aniston on the set of Wanderlust, in which he played a bearded cult leader. Alas, reel and real life are two very different worlds. Theroux, who is now dating the Friends star, reportedly cleaned up his act for her. Hinting at her preference for clean-shaven men in the October issue of GQ magazine, he said of his beard: “Certain chicks dig it; certain chicks don’t.”
Justin Theroux
Tobey Maguire The 36-year-old is known for his breakout role as Spiderman. But he could very well play Tarantulaman, based on his attempt at growing a beard last year. He has since shaved and landed a prime spot in Prada’s current fall campaign. Expect the father of two to go fuzz-free for a while more now that he is filming Baz Luhrmann’s jazz age classic, The Great Gatsby.
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Conan O’Brien
Call it post-retrenchment disorder. The flame-haired talkshow host, 48, first sported a beard during the last taping of The Tonight Show on NBC in January last year. By the time his eponymous talk show aired in November, it had grown into a thick shag. The look bothered funnyman Will Ferrell so much he threatened to shave it off – and he did exactly that when he was invited to be on the Conan show in April.
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SISTER’S ACT
Elle Fanning is not the only celebrity sibling who is ready to steal her big sister’s thunder. GLADYS CHUNG checks out five other sistersin-waiting
A
Elizabeth Olsen, 22 Famous siblings: actressdesigners Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, 25
Star Power : •••••
graduate of the prestigious New York University Tisch School of the Arts and the Atlantic Theater Company acting school in New York, the little sister of the Olsen twins has serious acting chops. She even spent a semester at the Moscow Art Theatre School two years ago. As a child, she watched her famous elder sisters dodge the paparazzi and made a conscious decision to stay out of the limelight, focusing on perfecting her stage craft instead. “The paparazzi was really frightening,” she recalled. I thought, maybe I’ll just skip that part.” Now, however, it seems she is ready for the attention. In the October issue of men’s magazine GQ in which she is touted as an ingenue to watch, she appeared in full tousled-hair-andunbuttoned-shirt glory. The aspiring actress made her debut in Martha Marcy May
Kylie Jenner, 14
I
t is hard to lead a low-key life when you belong to a family of reality TV personalities who jump at every chance to be in the spotlight. Kendall, the tallest at about 1.8m and arguably the prettiest of the five sisters, recently made waves when she modelled for prom dressmaker Sherri Hill’s show during New York Fashion Week. Last year, she also fronted a campaign for American high-street store Forever 21. Not to be outshone, Kylie made her New York Fashion Week runway debut at the show of singer Avril Lavigne. label, Abbey Dawn, where she strutted in a black tutu. She probably landed the gig because Lavigne is dating her older brother, Brody Jenner, 28, but Kylie is no stranger to the fashion scene. Together with Kendall, she has landed shoots with OK! magazine and Teen Vogue. Kylie also shot a campaign with American retailer Sears last year. It is clear that after Kim – with her enviable curves and stunning features – her half-sisters Kendall and Kylie look the best when the brood of Kardashian and Jenners line up for photocalls. It won’t be long before the leggy Jenner girls, with and trim figures, hog the attention.
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Marlene, an independent film that was screened at the Sundance Film Festival earlier this year. She played the role of a vulnerable young woman who struggles to escape a cult community. It seems her star is set to shine even brighter: She is currently filming the paranormal drama Red Lights alongside Robert de Niro and Sigourney Weaver. While her sisters shot to fame in family-friendly movies with mass appeal, the fresh-faced Elizabeth is carving her own niche with daring roles in indie films. An Oscar nomination looks like a distinct possibility – something her elder sisters can only hope for. However, it would be hard for Elizabeth to top the earnings of her multi-millionaire sisters, who brought in the moolah as child stars and are now shrewd businesswomen with two successful fashion lines.
Famous siblings: Kourtney, 32, Kim, 30, and Khloe Kardashian, 27, of reality show Keeping Up With The Kardashians
Star Power :
•
Kendall Jenner, 15
Famous sibling: supermodel Kate Moss, 37
Charlotte Moss, 13
Star Power : ••••• Star Power : •••••
A
fter she appeared as one of the 15 bridesmaids at her famous sibling’s wedding to musician Jamie Hince in July, fashion insiders began betting on Charlotte becoming the next big thing on the model circuit. A spitting image of her half-sister, Charlotte’s English rose looks – all fair skin and blonde hair – apparently had modelling agencies fighting to sign her up. She is already modelling vintage clothing in her familyrun store in West Sussex. However, her mother reportedly will not allow the teen to model professionally just yet, saying: “She’s too young. When she is old enough, it will be her decision.” It is still too early to tell if she will end up a catwalk star like her older sister. Judging by the amount of buzz she has created in The Daily Mail, Vogue UK and The Huffington Post, however, we say watch this face. Some have even said she upstaged the bride, but Kate’s style-icon status is hard to match.
Natali Germanotta ( far left), 19 Famous sibling: Pop star and fashion outlier Stefoni Germanotta, aka Lady Gaga (left)
N
icknamed Baby Gaga, Natali has ambitions to become a fashion designer. Currently studying fashion at Parsons The New School For Design in New York, she is also working with her elder sister on a yet-to-be-named clothing line. They plan to remodel the styles of classic icons, such as Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly and Katherine Hepburn. Natali has also been making her rounds on the entertainment scene: She accompanied Lady Gaga to this year’s Council of Fashion Designers of America awards
and made an appearance in the music video for her chart-topper, Telephone. She was also recently featured in Teen Vogue. By focusing on fashion design, it is obvious Natali is not out to upstage her sister – Lady Gaga’s antics are a tough act to follow, after all. Given how Lady Gaga’s influence has helped land her stylist, Nicola Formichetti, a plum role as the creative director of French fashion house Thierry Mugler, Nautili’s fashion career is set to skyrocket once Gaga’s label is launched.
Fash hag
The pen is mightier than the sword and at no time has it been more true than today, when a tweet – or 10 – can wreak more damage than a wrecking ball. To wit: the new floating nightclub that opened last weekend at Marina Bay Sands. If you received a VIP invitation to its opening last Friday, you were holding the hottest ticket in town. Well, at least until you turned up at the front door and were prevented from getting in by the bouncers. Instead, the men in black made everyone stand to the side to make way for a bevy of models. When one of the guests politely asked where the line was for those with invitations, the bouncer behind the velvet ropes rudely asserted that she was “in his space” and that she should “get out of the way. Now, precious, this wasn’t just any club-hopping chick wanting to weasel her way in. This was one of Singapore’s most popular It girls. Being the classy lady that she is, the original Zoukette simply smiled and moved to the side. By then, the Twitter world was buzzing. One disgruntled socialite tweeted: “Rude bouncers and no complimentary drinks? They should’ have just used the money spent on the useless invites.” I’m not saying there should be preferential treatment for certain people but a little courtesy would help, no? Have you not heard that you should never bite the hand that feeds you? Especially the fingers that are on a smartphone? Among the tweets that went out were how it was “more fun at the kopitiam nearby” and how the club was “overhyped and underdelivered”. Me thinks this new nightspot needs all the help it can get to stay . •
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MACBOOK AIR I like this laptop because it is so slim and portable. I once forgot to collect it after going through security checks in German airport and realised I’d lost it only after 11/2 hours. I found it later in a stack of trays after searching the entire airport.
SHARE PERFUME This perfume by my company contains a glass bead infused with natural frequency technology, which is said to help the perfume stay on longer. I like the calming, smooth and sensual scent.
PHILIP STEIN SPORTS WATCH I wear a more elegant looking Philip Stein watch for work but carry a sports watch with me because I enjoy exercising. This one has a rubber strap and is waterproof.
TIGER BALM I’ve been using this since I was 14, when my karate instructor in Germany introduced it to me. Now, I don’t take medication when I’m ill but I slather this all over.
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56 7 8
RAY-BAN AVIATOR SUNGLASSES I wear these only because they can be folded flat and stashed easily pocket or bag. This is my third pair in 5 years
IPOD SHUFFLE I work out every morning and need something light which will not hinder my movement. There is a mix of music in here from 1970s disco by Earth, Wind & Fire to classical music by Andrea Bocelli and Luciano Pavarotti.
THE URBAN BAG PAGE PENTAX CAMERA I love hiking or going to the beach and this rugged camera suits my needs as it is sturdy and can take underwater photographs and videos.
SLEEP BRACELET This sleep bracelet uses the same frequency technology as the watches but has a diff frequency to calm you down. It helps me sleep in planes so I don’t get jet lag.
will stein W
ill Stein has Oprah Winfrey and Madonna to thank for the success of his watch brand, Philip Stein. The German citizen started his watch business in 2002 with his wife Rina, a watchmaker with 28 years of experience. A year later, one of his watches was featured on Oprah’s talkshow and the brand immediately became a household name. Mr Stein, 50, who was in town last month on a business trip, recounts: “Madonna sent Oprah one of my watches as a thank-you gift for inviting her to the show in 2003. “One day in August, I received a phone call from Oprah, who told me she loved the look of the watch, its dual time zone watch face and interchangeable watch straps, and that she wanted to feature it.” The publicity was priceless – the company sold about 5,000 of its Swiss-made watches within four months, no mean feat for a fledgling brand, says Mr Stein. Today, it sells up to 80,000 watches a year and is found in more than 30 countries, including at The Hour Glass boutiques here. Prices start from $780.What sets Philip Stein apart from other brands is that it incorporates what is termed frequency technology in its watches. Everything on Earth is said to have its own energy field and vibrates at a specific frequency, and some of these frequencies are supposedly good for a person’s well-being and health. Mr Stein hit upon the idea of using the technology to create a line of “well-being luxury watches”. “Solids such as metal, glass and ceramic can be programmed to vibrate at a frequency other than its own natural frequency,” he explains. “Our watches contain metal discs that are embedded with frequencies that can help the wearer feel calmer, more relaxed and counter negative frequencies from the surroundings.” The concept has drawn much scepticism, he admits. Even Oprah was doubtful. “She said she could not tell for sure if the frequency technology worked but thought it was a great idea, nevertheless.” The brand also has a sleep bracelet embedded with a frequency said to calm the wearer and help him sleep better. In 2009, Mr Stein worked with a sleep laboratory in Atlanta to test the effects of the bracelet. Of the 35 people surveyed, 96 per cent reported a better night’s sleep. The bracelet, which costs about $400, is sold only on flights of airlines such as Emirates, Lufthansa and Swissair. Outside of work, Mr Stein, who shuttles between Miami, where his family is, and Zurich, where his company is based, is a health and fitness junkie. A vegetarian since he was 26, the father of a 10-year¬ old boy works out daily, no matter where he is. On a recent work trip to Hong Kong, the karate black belt holder practised taiji every morning for five days with a local instructor. He is looking forward to fulfilling his childhood dream next year, thanks to a contact in Shanghai. “I have always wanted to visit the Shaolin monastery and next year, I will get to live in the temple for a week and experience the full works, from the exercises they do to cleaning the temple.” •
STOCKISTS : Club Monaco, B1-12 Takashimaya Shopping Centre, Forever 21, B1-01 Orchard Exchange; Givenchy, 01-05 Paragon; HEM, 01 -01 Orchard Building; Promod, B2-49A Ion Orchard; Steve Madden, B2-12 Ion Orchard; Topshop, 01 -05 Kinghtsbridge, Uniqlo, 03-27 313@somerset; Zara, 01 -01 Liat Towers
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his bag I do not like briefcases as I am more of a sporty guy. This sleek Samsonite convertible bag can be carried as a briefcase or slung on the shoulder.