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CONTENTS Editor’s Letter 6 Play to Win cover story 10 Must Have FW1819 article 22 Haze editorial 28 Reve En Vert interview 34 Deserter editorial 38 Loic Prigent article 45 Dried Flowers editorial 46 Latest Art article 55 Business Days editorial 56 Maison Poiret comeback article 64 La Suite de Marjolaine editorial 66 Best Homeware brands article 74 Daydreams editorial 78 Armedangels interview 92 Shine On! editorial 96 Latest Beauty article 108 Let’s Party editorial 112 Latest Accessories article 118 A Still Heart editorial 120 Blurred Lines editorial 126 Age of Bodega Bags article 136 Salty Air editorial 140
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COVER STORY
Photography Johannes Graf c/o Hille-photographers Style Stefanie Schwaiger c/o Perfect Props Berlin & Phoenix Agentur Model Naomi L c/o Munich-models Hair Style, Makeup Vroni Eder c/o Nina Klein
EDITOR’S LETTER
P
assword: Shine on. It is time for all of us to take our future in our hands, our life and find our way to be happier. Understand what those big or small changes are that could make you feel somehow realized. To get to know ourselves better and improve the quality of our time on this world. And if the opportunity to realize your dreams seems like utopia, then maybe you’re not doing the right dreams, or you have to change the main characters in the story. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
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Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Marta Forgione martaforgioneph@gmail.com Raimondo Scintu street, 78 - 00173 Rome Italy CONTRIBUTORS: LAYOUT Giuseppe Sindoni Laura Bobak WRITERS Gaétane Auffret Laura Zanovello Nina Hanz Giampiero Amodeo Masha Mitrofanova Djordje Veljkovic PHOTOGRAPHERS Patrick Schwalb, Johannes Graf Ellyse Anderson, Nicky Emmerson Dudek Vel Dudek, Mag Juchnik, Greg Adamsky, Silke Schlotz, Patrick Glocker, Andrew Hiles, Raffaele Marone AGENCIES Nina Klein, Phoenix Agentur, Bigoudi, Perfect Prop Berlin, Nobasura, Les Ateliers Beauté d’Ouchy, Makata, Hille-photographers, Agent Bauer, Munich models, Supreme, Neva models, Rebel models, Mango models, ICE models, Brodybookings, Models1, Select model mgmt
ADVERTISING hello.latestmagazine@gmail.com
Rome Italy 2018 | p.iva 12434651001 Latest is printed on demand via Magcloud.com and available in digital on latestmagazine.net via Wix.com
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play to
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COVER STORY Photograpy Johannes Graf c/o Hille-photographers Style Stefanie Schwaiger c/o Perfect Props Berlin & Phoenix Agentur Model Naomi L c/o Munich Models Makeup, Hair style Vroni Eder c/o Nina Klein using Mac Cosmetics and Bumble and Bumble
y Opening: Dress Mango Earring Jane Kønig Shoes Balenciaga Here: Jacket & Jeans GUESS Los Angeles Shoes Boden
Pullover Acne Bag Bree Opposite: Pullover & Dress Marciano Shoes Celine
Pullover Windsor Opposite: Pullover & Suit Gestuz Shoes Samsoe & Samsoe
Blouse Mango Pants Acne Earrings Jane Kønig Opposite: Coat MAX&Co Earrings Jane Kønig
Pullover COS Earrings Anne Manns Opposite: Pullover & Pants Strenesse Shoes Gestuz
Here and on Cover: Pullover Gestuz Skirt Samsoe & Samsoe Coat Samsoe & Samsoe Shoes Boden
must have by Laura Zanovello
The weather forecast reports temperature drops and long cold nights, the trend forecast therefore advise to wrap yourself in warm cozy garments, layering with sartorial looking jackets and coats but never forget to keep the spark alive and light everything up with colours and patterns, it’s a jungle out there. The must have pieces for this season space from the most classic check blazer and cozy knitwear jumper, to the edgier animalier prints and bright red dresses. Everything is balanced out with accessories and make up, pairing golden statement jewellery with more simple outfits and tiny sleek leather handbags with party gowns as well as matching leopard prints with a cat eye look. It’s all about the fine art of harmony.
SOMETHING RED
1.
The colour of love, passion, the Holidays and good luck for the new year. A must in every wintery wardrobe, perfect when paired with gold jewellery and simple high heels for the win!
2.
3.
Vjera Red Dress
Marc Jacobs Beauty. Hi-shine gloss lip lacquer in Muted Rose 1.Esteban Cortazar FW18 | Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv 2.Lovia earrigns 3.Manolo Blahnik Sandals Nabasa
SOMETHING SPARKLY
1.
A staple in every party girl wardrobe, especially around Christmas time, is sparkly everything! Having to choose, you can never really go wrong with a dress and of course don’t forget your face, there is no such thing as too much highlighter. Keep it classy with a simple black shoulder bag and you are good to go!
2. Attico dress with paillettes
1.Balmain FW18 | Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv | Model: Anna Selezneva 2.Tsatsas Bag
Fenty Beauty Diamond Anniversary collection (Diamond Milk Lipgloss+ Diamond Bomb Highlighter)
SOMETHING WILD
1.
Not only in the jungle but also on the runway and in the city, one of the biggest trends for this winter is the animalier print. Give a twist to a pair of black leather pants with this leopard
2.
print jacket and of course channel your inner feline with the perfect cat eye.
3. Laneus jacket
Kat Von D tattoo liner Eye liner 1.Tom Ford FW18 | Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv | Model: Karly Loyce 2. Mashu Maya bag green 3. Givenchy leather trousers
SOMETHING COZY
1.
Something nice about the cold weather is being able to cuddle up into a giant wool sweater. Make it interesting with a bright red lipstick and some sapphire mules, cozy doesn’t have to be boring!
2.
Arela Knit Sweater
3.
Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick in 444 Gabrielle 1.Agnona FW18 | Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv 2.Ekria yellow gold cuff 3.Mules Hissa Haddad Marjana Navette Sapphire
SOMETHING CLASSIC
1.
Simple but put together, this is the power a good blazer can give you and the reason why it should always be in your wardrobe. Style it up or down with accessories and the rest of your outfit.
2.
Tagliatore double breasted blazer
3.
The Ordinary Serum Foundation 1.Max Mara FW18 | Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv 2.Dolce&Gabbana lace panelled skirt 3.Heels Hissa Haddad Jawahir Pear Black
h a z e h a z e h a z e
Photography Ellyse Anderson Style Candice Holem Model Kennedy Montano c/o Supreme Makeup Jon Hennessey c/o Nobasura Hair style Erin Klassen c/o Nobasura
Opening: Top Rachel Comey Pants Totême Earrings Celine Here: Top Jacquemus Pants Totême Earrings Celine Shoes Celine
Top Marques’ Almeida Earrings Celine Opposite: Coat Lemaire Earrings Celine
Top Eckhaus Latta Skirt Baserange Earrings All Blues Opposite: Top Suzanne Rae Pants Lemaire Bra Pansy Co Earrings Celine
LATEST INTERVIEW
Sustainable fashion and where to find it by Laura Zanovello
The sustainable fashion movement has never been as active as in the last few years and increasingly more brands are being invented or re-invented with an ecofriendly imprint. But where is it actually possible to find and buy these brands? Cora Hilts and Natasha Tuckers asked themselves the same question when in 2013 they founded RĂŞve En Vert. Duped as the Net-A-Porter for sustainable fashion, RĂŞve En Vert is an online store that gathers an array of sustainable luxury brands as well as makeup, skincare and home decor products. The selection comprehends activewear, underwear and fashionable pieces with important things in common such as the use of low impact and ethically
produced materials, the production made relying on local communities and the consequent guarantee that the people involved are paid fair wages and work in a suitable and safe environment, last but not least the promise to produce the minimum waste possible through recycling and upcycling. The platform does not only function as an online shop but also expands on a blog where the reader is informed on how to conduct a more conscious and green lifestyle. The customer is involved in every decision and initiative in the name of transparency and sustainability. In this interview, the founders explain the importance of these values and the meaning of their work.
First of all, what does Rêve En Vert mean and why did you choose this name? It means “dream in green” and I actually came up with it whilst I was living in Paris...I didn’t even know what I wanted to do with the name exactly I just knew that I was leaning towards something to do with environmental protection and a better world and I loved how it sounded! What were you doing before launching this business and what inspired you to start it? I actually had the idea for Rêve En Vert when I was finishing my Master’s Degree in Environmental Politics and Sustainability at Kings College London - I was in a lecture there where my professor mentioned that fashion was the second most polluting industry on earth behind oil and gas. It just seemed incredible to me that fashion, which is supposed to be one of the most innovative, creative and beautiful forms of commerce could be so backwards when it came to its environmental and humanitarian impact. The idea was to create a retailer that would allow people to have superb style without sacrificing the ethics we really need to consider when it comes to our clothing. What criteria do you use when selecting the brands to feature of your platform?
Cora Hilts Co-founder Rêve En Vert
We have four main criteria - organic, remade, local and fair - that dictate the core principles of our designers. We also look into things like water usage, chemicals and dyes and packaging. It’s really a 360 approach to who the designer is and what they stand for. We do make sure that everything is beautiful as well!
What are some of the best selling product categories on Rêve En Vert? Eco activewear and knitwear are our two highest selling categories, but by far the silk slip dresses from Australian ethical silk designer Natalijia are our sell - out item, we can’t keep them in stock which is actually slightly difficult with such a small scale designer! I think with activewear people are starting to realize the impact of their wellness routines on the planet - most conventional sportswear is made from plastic. Polyester, nylon, rayon, etc. are all derivatives of it meaning you are essentially working out in plastic, which is a slightly horrid thought. Also as a fabric it can take up to 700 years to decompose which is a really large impact to have on the planet in the name of our yoga classes! From your perspective, what kind of development do you think sustainable fashion had since you started in 2014, up until today? What are your predictions for the future? It’s been incredible the amount of change that’s occurred in the last five years - when we first started the company people told me there was no way that luxury and sustainability would ever go hand in hand and I think it’s safe to say that in 2018, they really do. Consumers are so much more aware of the need for change within fashion, and even if those changes are coming slowly it’s surely the future. The planet has never needed us to reduce it’s impact upon it more and I am really hopefully that consumers are waking up to this and committing themselves to more sustainable lifestyles.
The range product offered on the e-shop does not just limit to clothes and accessories but covers also beauty and home decor. Can you tell us what is your take on sustainable skincare and make-up and why is it something to consider investing in? I would say that since we launched our organic beauty section that has done really shockingly well. I curated it to be all of the items necessary for a woman to feel amazing from face to body and bath. So many products are now marketed to make us feel beautiful whilst having extremely harmful chemicals in them that can do more damage than good and I think women really need to be aware of that. Even if you don’t want to make the switch to all natural beauty, really be on the lookout for anything with parabens or phthalates within them as these ingredients are proven to be linked to cancer. We also make sure all of our beauty comes in plastic free packaging, which is something else to be aware of as conventional beauty is highly polluting. Transparency seems to be a refrain in your work, customers are involved and informed about your choices in terms of shipping price and pricing policy in general, thanks to two dedicated sections on the website. Why is this dialogue with your customers so important to you? I think it’s really important to acknowledge the fact that sustainable fashion is more expensive than a lot of faster fashion and that it doesn’t really allow for sales as we don’t want to undermine the pricing of designers that are paying more to their factory workers, for local production and better, more innovative materials. Also as an international
retailer, it’s inevitable that we will have a carbon footprint so doing as much as we can to reduce this is fundamental to me. That’s why we always use carbon neutral shipping with our logistics companies and donate some of our revenue to Trees for the Future, an incredible charity replanting trees and creating new livelihoods in some of the places most destroyed by deforestation. We seem to be living in an age where quantity (in most cases at a low price) is preferred over quality, what would you say to encourage everyone to have a more sustainable consumption of fashion goods? I believe it’s my job as a sustainable retailer to educate people on why that is so important. It can feel like a lot to invest in, but truly buying less for more is one of the single easiest steps you can make in reducing your environmental and humanitarian impact as a consumer. I truly believe that fast fashion will be a thing of the past in the next decade or so because these companies just cannot exist on the scale they do and claim to be sustainable - there is too much production, too much transportation and too much waste. In breaking up with fast fashion or designers that are not putting sustainability at the core of what they do people can really be leaders in this big shift that is coming to keeping our earth a good place to live. In my opinion it’s everyone’s personal responsibility to do their bit and simply asking myself, do I really need this, will I wear it for years? is one of the easiest things you can possibly do to start weeding out all those un-necessary and probably not very sustainable purchases.
de ser ter Photography Dudek vel Dudek Style Karol Młodzinski Model Anja c/o Neva Makeup, Hair style Aleksandra Przyłuska Post production Colorworkzw
Coat &Other Stories Dress 1683 Atelier Vest Costume Studio
Top Daria Wierzbicka Skirt Liu Jo Earrings &Other Stories Opposite: Dress Dramat Dress 1683 Atelier Trousers Ewelina Oszczypała
Blouse 1683 Atelier Trousers 1683 Atelier Skirt Jil Sander Opposite: Blouse Solar Skirt Liu Jo Jacket Daria Wierzbicka Belt SI-MI
Dress Jil Sander Glove Kacper Golba
Loïc Prigent fashion’s favorite insider by Gaétane Auffret
Loïc Prigent
“Karl Lagerfeld sketches his life, The Balmain Style, The Legacy of Alexander McQueen”[...]
Loïc Prigent is a French filmmaker. If his name does not sound familiar, there is a high chance you have seen at least one of his documentaries. Born in the countrysides of Brittany, after spending his teenage years reading fashion magazines he moved to Paris at 19. In 1995, he helped creating Têtu, a fanzine who will become an iconic gay magazine. After that, Prigent became fashion journalist for Libération. This is the beginning of his sarcastic reviews of fashion shows. His TV start happened in the 1990s for French channel Canal +. However the real turning point of his career is the realization of his documentary on the fashion house Chanel in 2005. His reputation as a filmmaker grew with documentaries like Karl Lagerfeld sketches his life (2013), The Balmain Style (2014) or The Legacy of Alexander McQueen (2015).With his serie «The Day Before», he was one of the first one to film the creating process of the biggest fashion brands such as Diane Van Furstenberg, Isabel Marant, Fendi or Lanvin. Prigent was not raised in a fashion orientated environment and this is where his strength lays. From Olivier Rousteing to Catherine Deneuve, the Parisian fashion scene seems to be revolving around the eye of his camera. What made him the designers’ confidant of choice is definitely his sense of humor and way of not taking fashion too seriously. His secret? Keeping an outsider vision of Paris, even after all this time. Symbol of his cynicism when it comes to fashion, his twitter account blew off with his tweets on the most absurd quotes he heard during fashion weeks. This came after the success of his column «La Phrase Entendue» in Libération. The coronation of all his humoristic tweets came in the form of a book published in 2016 called «J’adore la mode mais c’est tout ce que je déteste» (meaning: I love fashion but it’s everything I hate).
Dried Flower
Analog Photography Mag Juchnik Style Ewa Michalik Model Eliza Ryszewska c/o Mango Models Makeup, Hair style Anna Piechocka Dress Monica Moncini | Coat Nissa | Shoes Liu Jo | Scarf Allora | Hat HatHat Opposite: Jacket Kata Haratym | Skirt Monika Ĺšwiderska | Earrings Klara Kostrzewska | Bracelet Pola Zag | Socks Swedish Stockings | Shoes DeeZee | Belt Self Love
Dress Tadashi Shoji / VividStore | Skirt Kata Haratym | Shoes Carini by Pilawski Opposite: Shirt Hubert Kołodziejski | Jacket Liu Jo | Earrings Kajo Jewels | Toque HatHat
Body SaintBody | Trousers Monika Świderska | Coat Klaudia Markiewicz | Belt KOD | Bags Silva | Earrings, necklace Kamena | Bracelet Umiar Opposite: Dress Magdalena Wilk-Dryło | Coat Aleksandra Kucharczyk | Hat Vintage Earrings Klara Kostrzewska | Bag Silva | Shoes DeeZee | Bracelet Vintage
Coat Aleksandra Kucharczyk | Scarf Allora | Hat HatHat | Earrings Klara Kostrzewska Opposite: Dress Magdalena Wilk-Dryło | Bag Silva | Earrings Hubert Kołodziejski | Sunglasses Miu Miu
OLIVERBONAS.COM
LATEST art by Masha Mitrofanova 1. PARIS | Southern Geometries, from Mexico to Patagonia An opportunity to see over 70 artists in an exhibition that brings together 250 artworks in celebration of Latin America. The diverse technics ranging from ceramics and weaving to abstraction and sculpture with inclusion of body painting and exploration of architecture (just to cover the top of the iceberg). Vibrant culture, pulsating colours and geometric art all in one. Fondation Cartier 14.10.2018 - 24.02.2019 2. LONDON | Yayoi Kusama. The Moving Moment When I Went To The Universe The devoted admirers of the legendary artist will at last experience the latest mastery in a major exhibition of new works by Kusama. The newcomers have a chance to get familiar with the icon of modern art by witnessing the My Eternal Soul series and the eminent painted bronze pumpkin and flower sculptures. A special treat -large-scale Infinity Mirrored Room was commissioned for this presentation alone. Victoria Miro has been representing the artist since 1997; this is Kusama’s twelfth exhibition at the gallery. Victoria Miro 3.10.2018 - 21.12.2018 3. MADRID | Luigi Ghirri. Map and Territory One of the most celebrated photographers in Italy, Luigi Ghirri is the ultimate father of composition and subtle emotional tones in photography. The works showcased touch upon the decade of the 1970’s, when Ghirri published his characteristic book - Kodachrome (1978). The exhibition displays projects like Atlante, where the artist studied the way people photograph and are photographed. Museo Reina Sofía 7.09.2018 - 7.01.2019 4. MILAN | The Art of BANKSY. A Visual Protest With the recent disruptive move in the art world, self-destruction of the Girl With Balloon artwork which made headlines in the news media outlets, Banksy remains a spearhead in provocation and art with a cause. This particular show has not been authorized by Banksy, whom to this day remains mysterious about his identity. Curated by Gianni Mercurio, the event will showcase over 70 works including paintings, sculptures, prints, accompanied by objects, photographs and videos. An exceptional opportunity for both tourists and the Milanese goers. Mudec 21.11.2018 - 14.04.2019
Tatewaki Nio, Fondation Cartier
Yayoi Kusama, Mirror rooms-Victoria Miro Gallery
Luigi Ghirri, Pescara ©Eredi di Luigi Ghirri
Girl With Balloon, Banksy
Photography Greg Adamski c/o Makata Style Robert Ĺ osyk Model Alex Szwalek c/o Rebel Models Hair Style Daniel Gryszke Makeup Ania Slowinska Retouch Dominik Herman
Opening: Coat MMC studio | Belt Alexander McQueen | Shoes Badura Here: Jacket & Skirt Sandra Kpodonou
Top & Trousers MMC studio | Shoes Bata Opposite: Shirt Vintage | Jacket Martyna Sowik
Golf Vintage | Jacket MMC studio | Skirt Mally&Co Opposite: Dress Epuzer
Top Self Portrait | Trousers Patrizia Aryton Opposite: Dress Self Portrait | Belt Prada
Poiret the revival of a fashion house by Gaetane Auffret
Paul Poiret in 1922
2018 was a big year in fashion considering the amount of changes we witnessed in the industry, but one change seems to have gone slightly under radar. Poiret, the fashion house who dressed the most important people of the 1910s and the 1920s is making a comeback after the brand disappeared almost a hundred years ago. For a designer who had such a big impact on his time, it was a shame to see the brand disappear. Nicknamed « The Greatest » or « The king of fashion » in America, where his pieces were bestsellers, Paul Poiret was the first one to change the vision of fashion. Precursor of Art Déco, he anticipated before everyone else the evolution of the women’s fashion needs with a new silhouette corset- free. Paul Poiret inspired a new lifestyle and a new attitude. He discovered before everyone else the importance of marketing using his name and his connections to develop products unrelated to clothing. His daring use of colors is still a major source of inspiration for designers nowadays. He was also one of the first on to create a link between fashion and art. So it does not come as a surprise that some people did not want the legacy to disappear in thin
air. The Paris fashion week calendar of February 2018 contained a new feature: the Maison Poiret’s name on it. The fashion world had the pleasure to discover that Poiret’s legacy had not gone to ashes. At the helm of the brand: Yiqing Yin, a French designer born in Berlin and Anne Chapelle, CEO of Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester. Both women are under the direction of South Korean retail company Shinsegae. So far the brand has only presented two collections for the house, one in February and one in September. Yin is resurrecting the spirit of the late designer with dresses heavily inspired by his concepts like the «robe-minute» or Orientalism (although in a way less outdated way). For the Spring/Summer 2019 catwalk show, she showed us her take on colors with vibrant shades of orange, red blue. As per tradition, the key feature of the brand’s style has remained the draped style. The show was presented at the Grand Palais in Paris, really feminine silhouettes were strutting down the runway with fluid refined outfits paying tribute to the big man behind this fashion house.
Photo Courtesy of Poiret
MARJOLAINE Photography Raffaele Marone Style Silvia Macchioni Model Marjolaine Rocher Makeup Elisa Rampi
Opening: Coat Zara Here: Total look Individuals
Blazer Giuseppe Di Morabito Pants Alia Abaza Opposite: Lingerie Individuals
Coat Giuseppe Di Morabito Opposite: Dress Giuseppe Di Morabito
Here & Opposite: Coat Burberry Body La Perla Stocking Calzedonia
Editor’s letter
Off the runway and into the hallway! This seems to be the motto of many fashion brands that have attempted to find success in homeware collections. And while brands like Gucci, Diesel and even Shrimps with their upcoming collaboration with Habitat seem to be trailblazing, this idea is nothing new.
FASHION BRANDS with the best
Homeware by Nina Hanz
In the early 1990s, Versace produced throne-like chairs, towels, plates and more with their iconic Greek-Key motifs. Gianni had even the bottom of his Miami pool designed with the brand’s logo. And whether you love it or love to hate it, the signature patterns continue to spread. Seeing this potential, Fendi, Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani quickly joined the trend years ago. Now, with more collaborations like Virgil Abloh’s collection for Ikea being promoted, fashion labels can soon will called true lifestyle brands. But there must be some concerns – fashion designers are typically not trained in interior design or furniture construction. And with the home furnishings market that accumulates about 649 billion dollars, they are far less qualified than the specialists to handle such a large responsibility. However, as Diesel has proven over the last few seasons, it is all about who you are to find help. Through Diesel’s partnerships with high-end Italian design firms like Moroso and the lighting experts at Foscarini, they were able to gain in the knowledge and experienced needed to succeed in their new target market. The way fashion designers think of space, shape and form is quite similar with how aesthetic concepts work in interior design, creating the perfect match. All range of designers trying to put their hand at homeware allows us to find something for everyone. Here are some of the best to date.
Preen Home Preen by Thornton Bregazzi was founded in London in 1996 and has perfected their softnessmeets-toughness aesthetic since then. Mixing feminine frill with masculine elements, the brand has found a niche for punkish floral prints to thrive. Preen Home has taken this style and used it as inspiration of their range of notebooks, quilts, cushions and candles. Overall, it is a combination of romantic ruffled and edgy patterns.
Preen Home’s 2017 debut collection Photo: Ash Reynolds / Courtesy of Preen Home
Here and opposite: Gucci Decor launch at Maxfield LA
Gucci Décor How you ever wanted to step inside a Gucci advertisement? Well, Gucci Décor lets you do just that. Including colored ceramics, mismatched chairs, painted side tables and embroidered pillows, Gucci transforms their intricate motifs into a fantasy-filled world of luxury homeware. Their old-fashioned glamour is strongly advised for the eccentric homeowner.
Editor’s letter
Iittala for Issey Miyake
The Japanese fashion and fragrance house Issey Miyake recently teamed up with the Finnish glass artisans Iittala. Featuring uniquely shaped plates and beautiful fluted glass vases, the true craftsmanship of this collaboration shows itself in Miyake’s signature tight pleats reimagined onto the collection’s unique placemats, cushions and napkins. Missoni | look 64, 15 Iittala for Issey M
iyake 2018 Co llection
Henry Holland for Habitat 2016 Collection
Henry Holland for Habitat House of Holland does not shy away from making a fashion statement, whether it is by clashing patterns or by creating bright coloured looks. The same fashion sense is carrier onto designer Henry Holland’s collection for Habitat. Interjecting psychedelic shapes, insects and tropical plants, House of Holland showed the textile industry how to be bold with their surrealist bedding, velvet armchairs and cushions.
Diesel Living with Iris Ceramica | 2016 Collection
Diesel Living Photo: Courtesy of Anya Hindmarch
Established over 30 years ago, the Japanese brand Diesel is known for their quality jeans. In 2009, they expanded with their homeware line, bringing together functionality and their urban/industrial aesthetic. What remained were high quality products that many of their consumers have enjoyed. From cyber-punk accessories to sleek kitchens, Diesel has one of the biggest homeware collections in fashion. Anya Hindmarch Anya Hindmarch is a pop art-inspired accessories designer from the United Kingdom bringing bespoke handbags to the street. With in-store craftsmen embossing customized pictures and messages on her accessorizes, the brand has recently seen a potential for embossed homeware products like leather frames and keepsake boxes. In addition, Anya Hindmarch also sells candles and diffusers with her graphic stickers often found on her handbags. It’s the perfect pop for any home.
Daydreams
Photography Arnaud Ele c/o WANDAPrint | Style Roxane Mercerat | Models Noé, Jade c/o Square models agency | Aline c/o Fotogen models Makeup Andréa c/o Les Ateliers Beauté d’Ouchy | Hair style Yoan c/o Les Ateliers Beauté d’Ouchy Assistant creative & photography Laura Knoops | Video Altamont
Top Alberta Ferretti Dress vintage @lestoutesbelles Hat Sonia Rykiel
(Left) (Left) Top Simone Rocha Top Simone Rocha Trousers Sister Jane Trousers Sister Jane Shoes Fratelli Rossetti Shoes Fratelli Rossetti (Middle) (Middle) Top Sister Jane Top Sister Jane Shorts Motel Shorts Motel Shoes Christian Louboutin Shoes Christian Louboutin (Right) (Right) Dress Carven Dress Carven Shoes Dolce & Gabbana Shoes Dolce & Gabbana
Here, Opposite: (Down) Top Reiss Suit Fabiana Filippi Shoes Fratelli Rossetti (Up) Dress Sister Jane Boots Chanel
Coat Sonia Rykiel Shoes Christian Louboutin Opposite : (In front) Blouse Yves Saint Laurent Top Endless Rose Shorts Motel (Back) Top Kenzo vintage Suit Motel
(Right) Top Lace & Breads (Right) Scarf Cartier Top Lace & Breads (Middle) Scarf Cartier Top Yves-Saint-Laurent (Middle) (Left) Top Yves-Saint-Laurent Top New Look (Left) Scarf Christian Lacroix Top New Look Scarf Christian Lacroix
(Left) Coat Marni Scarf Hermès Boots Miu Miu (Right) Coat Burberry Scarf Hermès Shoes Christian Louboutin
(In front) Top Simone Rocha Trousers Sister Jane Shoes Fratelli Rossetti (Back) Dress Carven Shoes Dolce & Gabbana Opposite : (Left) Coat Marni Scarf Hermès Boots Miu Miu (Right) Coat Burberry Scarf Hermès Shoes Christian Louboutin
Editor’s letter
LATEST interview by Laura Zanovello
ARMEDANGELS fighting for the environment
Have you ever thought about the consequences of the simple actions you make on a daily basis? Normal things like wearing your jeans, finally getting your online shopping delivered or throwing away a plastic bottle? It may be hard to realize how each and every little thing we do may have an impact on us and the environment. Here is where Armedangels comes into play. This German brand with an expressive name, brings cool clothes with a conscious soul, to life. The concept behind it is quite straightforward: sustainable fashion can be very fashionable, and reasonably priced too! Everything made by Armedangels comes from a thorough research and is kind to our planet and to us. The
denim collection, for instance, focuses on eliminating harmful chemicals (for our skin and the environment) in the colouring, while also providing a full range of fits and styles for all shapes and tastes. All the fabrics used throughout the range are eco-friendly and innovative coming from wood, recycled plastic and organic cotton only to name a few. Even the packaging is not your average carton box, it is in fact made from grass, a material that uses considerably less water and produces far less CO2 than wood. To go more in depth of the beautiful work this brand is doing, we asked them directly to tell us.
The name Armedangels is for sure an evocative one, why did you pick it and what does it mean exactly? The name ARMEDANGELS pretty much sums up what we stand for. The name symbolizes a sort of „Robin Hood“ for the textile industry. An armed angel fighting against the injustices and conditions of an industry that needs revolutionary change… The brand was founded in 2007 with an initial range of printed t-shirt, fast forward eleven years Armedangels features a total look for women, men and kids. How did everything unfold? Did you plan from the start this kind of development? Back then, Martin (Founder and CEO) and his Co-Founder didn’t even necessarily want to go into fashion. In the beginning, T-Shirts were the only idea they felt confident in and that they would be able to realize. When they heard about the conditions in the textile industry and how hard it really is to get your hands on fairly produced T-Shirts from sustainable materials - they were shocked. This was the moment they decided to change the game and make a difference. In 2007 ARMEDANGELS was born. Today we can proudly call ourselves one of the biggest ECO & FAIR fashion labels in Europe. With a team of 80 people and four collections a year, we prove each day that sustainability and great product design do not exclude each other. When scrolling through your online shop “Detox” is a recurrent word. Can you explain what this means to you and why it is important when it comes to clothes? The textile industry is a dirty business. Denim is a dirty business. Almost 2 kg of chemicals are used to produce a pair of jeans the conventional way plus an average of 8,000 liters of water. These record-setting figures have a major impact on our environment – and on ourselves. That’s not an option for us. With our new denim campaign, we want to raise awareness and show that fashion can be done differently. Our solution: DetoxDenim.
Editor’s letter
As you say, everyone can talk about sustainability but actually doing it is a different matter. In order to prove your commitment, you decided to work with three independent organizations (Global Organic Textile Standard, Fair Wear Foundation and Fairtrade). What kind of challenges and joys does this partnership bring?
We believe that collaboration is key. Therefore, we are always looking for innovative organizations to support us and learn from and we are continuously in contact with other brands sourcing from the same partners as well. We strive for a shared goal: To improve conditions in our industry. If we work together, our goals can be reached in a more sustainable way and can be implemented to last long – and that is a win for everyone. As a further back-up we are supported by voluntary standard and system-based tools of the PETA Vegan Approved Logo, Fairtrade, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and the Fair Wear Foundation. Of course, all four systems mean additional work, investment and monitoring. We continuously check and verify our partnerships to make sure that they are still efficient and striving for sustainable development. It is never about a labelling grade or something like that. Social, as well as environmental compliance and conditions can and must be improved continuously. Our partner organizations support us in doing this and further help us to benchmark our own activities. Sustainability in the fashion environment is slowly spreading but the brands that really live by it are still a minority. Why is that, in your opinion? From the consumer point of view: People start being more conscious about what they wear and where it is produced. That’s great. But even though people think about sustainability more and more, in the end, they buy what they like. Design and price still come first for the majority of people. Fair enough. Nobody wants to wear an ugly shirt – no matter how fair and organic it is. This is the balancing act we have to manage. Clothing, which is fair, organic and beautiful at the same time. It’s still a long way to go but that’s what you have to deal with if you want to become the fairest fashion label in the world.
From the company’s point of view: There are some big challenges to manage. One is to meet commercial retail prices - despite a sustainable production. Fair Fashion companies like us can’t compete with “Fast-Fashion“ labels – and that’s not what we want either- not regarding the price, nor regarding the quality. But we are able to compete with brands offering a similar kind of quality and products. Another challenge is to extend the product range. In our case, we have to find new, sustainable materials and comply to GOTS in every production step. Also, of course, they have to match our high design standards. All these steps are very time consuming and cost a lot of money. From innovative fibres for the clothes through to eco-friendly packaging, there seem to be a lot of research in your materials. How does the process of selection works? Global sourcing potentially raises the carbon footprint and there is also the risk of dealing with unethical practices. Therefore sustainable sourcing and selection of materials is very important at ARMEDANGELS. That means, the process of purchasing goods and services take into account the long-term impact on people, profits and the planet. It considers how products are made, where they come from, how they are transported etc. Sustainable sourcing starts with our materials. For this reason, we setup an extensive ‘ARMEDANGELS Sustainable Material Guideline’ summarising materials which are ecologically optimized and of best quality. Our most important materials include the following: • Natural organic fibres, such as organic wool and organic cotton (our organic cotton from India is also Fairtrade certified) • Cellulose fibres from our Austrian partner Lenzing, such as TENCEL™ Lyocell and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ • Recycled synthetic fibres such as recycled polyester (rPET) The guideline is a living document and is revised regularly in order to accommodate new research. Only using ecologically optimized materials is not enough for us. Therefore, we continue our commitment to reducing the environmental impact by choosing GOTS certified factories to partner with. This way we make sure that high environmental standards are kept within our entire production chain. Social standards are also part of the GOTS certification and build the basis for our work on the FWF principles.
What are the plans and aspiration for the future of Armedangels? Our big goal is to become the fairest fashion label in the world. Still, a lot remains to be done. We are aware of that and the bigger we become the more challenges await us. That is exhausting but it also motivates us every day. In the next five years, we want to conquer the European fair fashion market, and in ten years, we want to have a presence in all the relevant markets around the globe, establish organic & fair as a standard in the fashion world and inspire as many people as possible with our message to rethink the way they consume. So we still have a bit of work to do but no one ever said changing the world was going to be easy.
SHINE ON! Photograpy Patrick Schwalb Style Markus Galic Model Elena Peter c/o Munich Models Make up, Hair Style Josie Martens c/o Bigoudi using MAC Cosmetics and Aveda
Shirt Traffic People | Tanktop Y3 | Pants And Shoes Pinko
Opposite: Shirt Missoni | Leggings Ivy Park By Beyonce | Boots Isabel Marant
Blouse Bitten Setter | Pullover Antik Batik | Hotpants Alexandra Fuks | Socks Burlington | Shoes Chie Mihara
Long blazer & Pailleten Pants Shirtaporter | Net Shirt Dawid Tomaszewski | Shoes Pinko | Hat & Silk Scarf Ungaro
Sweater Rich & Royal | Oversize Pants Franziska Michael | Boots Isabel Marant Opposite: Blazer Summum Studio Amsterdam | Swarovski Leggings Dawid Tomaszewski | Clutch Bag & Shoes Jerome Dreyfuss Paris
Jump Suit Eres | Bikini Mes Demoiselles Paris
Here and on Cover: Pullover Gestuz Skirt Samsoe & Samsoe Coat Samsoe & Samsoe Shoes Boden
Turtelneck shirt Franziska Michael | Hotpants Guess | Boots Isabel Marant
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LATEST BEAUTY by Gaetane Auffret
Greek goddess
Even if your New Year’s Eve will probably not consist of you and your best friend eating grapes while laying in togas, you can still choose to adopt an Ancient Greece inspired makeup. If the idea sounds weird, have a look at the models’ faces at Akris F/W 2018 show. With gold leaves and black eyeliner on their eyelids, their gazes had something surreal and eternal. Gold leaves are the answer to your desire of a memorable makeup for the last day of the year. Our product of choice: your local craft store’s gold leaf sheets.
Akris Fall/Winter 2018 | Photo Alain Jocard
Metallic orbits
New Year’s Eve can also mean the biggest party of the year. Of course, we did not forget those of you for which it does and we found the perfect beauty look to dance the night away. Seen at Valentino Couture and Chanel for these last fall collections, the metallic eyeshadows are having a moment. Deep green, navy or burgundy, choose the perfect winter color to create either a strong and thick wing (like Valentino’s ones) or a more subtle blended look. Our product of choice: Sisley Phyto-Eye Twist, 13 Deep, 32,99€.
Valentino Couture Fall/Winter 2018 | Getty
Flashy lashes
For those looking to bring drama to their makeup with an unusual touch, this colorful lashes makeup is for you. Dries Van Noten Couture collection last January reintroduced the colors on its models’ lashes. This is probably one of the easiest beauty look to realize out of these four. For this makeup you only need to switch your boring black mascara for a really bright one. Orange, pink, turquoise, have fun with the colors and start the new year with a bang. Our product of choice: Tom Ford, Extreme Lashes and Eyebrows mascara, Copper, 50,99€.
Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2018 | Photo Peter White
60s lady
If some of you want a more delicate makeup look to say hi to the new year, we suggest a classic vintage look. Those could be seen at Givenchy Couture Fall 2018 collection. Channel your inner 60s beauty icon with a simple cat eye. You can create it easily with a simple line of eyeliner and a dark stroke in the crease of your eyelid. This is ideal for anyone going to a classy dinner party who wants to show that as Audrey Hepburn, their beauty does not age one bit with the incoming year. Our product of choice: Fenty Flyliner, Cuz I’m Black, 18,99€
Givenchy Couture Fall/Winter 2018 | Photo Jamie Stoker
Let’s
ar y Photography Silke Schlotz Model Luna c/o ICE Models Hair Style, Makeup Deborah Hoerz using Smashbox, Dior, Zoeva, Essence, MAC cosmetics & L’anza
Editor’s letter
LATEST Conscious by Nina Hanz
Conscious, eco, ethical, social. These keywords have become so widespread that both luxury and streetwear brands have begun to sources and manufacturing less harmful products, benefiting the environment, consumer and the worker. With climate change and global warming pending, ‘cool’ fashion takes on new meaning. If you are looking for a gift this winter, make sure you care about doing it consciously.
ZOE MORTON | Platlife Ring It is the perfect jewelry and lifestyle brand for minimalists and travelers alike. After taking eight-month trip around the world, founder Zoe Morton began crafting jewelry out of recycled materials, taking into consideration the environmental impacts it might have on Earth. In her latest collection, Morton was inspired by traditional basket weaving and designed a ring based on the organic texture dried palm leaf. Appositely named the Plantlife Ring, it is the perfect piece to remind us of summer, the tropics and traveling.
SUSTAINABLE ACCES WALD BERLIN | Red Light Special Shell Gemstone Earring
In Berlin, a collective of unemployed moms and grandmothers make up the Wald team. This jewelry brand gives each woman one design from their collection, ensuring an ethical production in homes all around the area. Founded by a former model, Joyce Binneboese, and a stylist, Dana Roski, the brand seeks to inspire independent fashionable girls through empowering the women who make their products and offering original pieces. In an interview, the two explained, “Jewellery is sort of like candy. It always feels nice and you can always add more. That’s actually how we developed our eye for jewellery as well as our very own aesthetic.” With such ethical manufacturing, these pieces are worth indulging with.
MATT&NAT | FW18 Campaign Another social enterprise trailblazing the sustainable shoe industry is Matt & Nat. With a variety of classic heels, oxfords, flats and sneakers, this vegan-friendly brand uses PU leather, which is less harmful to the environment then PVC. They also use 100% recycled bottled in their shoe linings and encourage their consumers to continue upcycling their products long after they have bought the item. With a wide range of handbags as well, their motto “live beautifully” becomes a positive message both in terms of fashion and humanity.
With the United Nations’s International Panel on Climate Change warning that only twelve years remain for us to limit the likely climate change catastrophes they have predicted, consumers all over the world need to reflect on how they shop for themselves and others. Not only does this gift guide work for the holiday season, but when buying new product, it is important that we consider their quality and longevity. In the famous words of Vivian Westwood: “Buy less, choose well, make it last.”
SSORIES GIFT GUIDE EDUN | Vegan Bibi West Tote
Equally sweet are the handbags by Edun. This premium leather and accessories designer has gone to Thika, Kenya to create most of its products. Currently, 95% of the manufacturing happens there, providing useful skills and regular incomes to the artisans. They expressed, “Africa is now the fastest growing continent, resourceful and abundantly creative. As a pioneer in its social mission, it has never felt so relevant for Edun to explore unique opportunities in the African continent.” Along with their clothing and unique beaded handbags, Edun is recognized most for their Bibi tote bag. With its contrast stitch, metal handles and various color ways, this bag brings ethical and sustainable fashion to your fingertips.
A
still Heart Photography, Retouch Patrick Glocker Model Kim R. c/o Brodybookings Hair Style, Makeup Deborah Hoerz using Dior, NUI Cosmetics Berlin, L’Anza Assistant Bianca Glocker
BLURRED Lines
Photography Andrew Hiles Model Brooke Madsen c/o Models1 Makeup Natasha Lakic using MAC Manicurist Nichole Williams using OPI Photography Assistant Ferran VergĂŠs
Michael Kors FW/18-19 |z Photo: Yannis Vlamos/ Indigital.tv
The age of the
BODEGA BAGS By Nina Hanz
In New York City, almost every street has a bodega. Elsewhere, one might call them a corner store, but not in New York. Meaning ‘storeroom’ in Spanish, the neighbourhood businesses rose to popularity in the 1940s and 1950s, when daily runs to the bodega for groceries became a ritual. Remaining open long after normal supermarkets close, bodegas are still a symbol of New York – along with the bag of snacks and lottery tickets you can buy there.
Thank You Bodega Bag, courtesy of Gelareh Mizrahi
These take-out bags have become such an iconic part of the New York lifestyle, that they are now being commemorated by fashion designers. This comes at an interesting time in fashion, one where more emphasis is put practicality, as seen with the trends celebrating athleisure, chunky sneakers and even kitten heels. It might not be the obvious style choice, but the plastic bodega bags seem to work for the corner
shop consumers, so why change what already works? This was precisely the idea behind the eponymous American handbag brand Gelareh Mizrahi, who made the ‘Thank You Bodega Bags’ in holographic, clear and python variations. The added benefit of these designer bodega bags is that they are a long listing and plastic-free alternative, while also sporting a more relaxed alternative to the conventional tote bag.
With the bodega being an honoured institution to New Yorkers, it is no wonder that designers from the Big Apple have been representing the trend in their collections. Michael Kors, for example, gave the take-out bag an upgrade in his Fall 2018 collection by using rich leather to create a striped shopper bag. These black and white bags donning the namesake brand’s oval logo caught a lot of attention during Fashion Week. Alexander Wang, however, took the plastic bag trend even more literally with his Swarovski crystal studded Ziploc bag. Wang also sent top model Kaia Gerber down the runway with a similar mini Swarovski bag, this time covered with the classic ‘Thank You’ print on it. While they are more extravagant than the average bodega bag, their reference to New York’s take-away culture is undeniable. In a city so dynamic it is no wonder that the street culture has made a lasting impression on the many designers who pass through. For Balenciaga, this was a very literal source of inspiration. So much so that one of their ostentatious bags has led them to a lawsuit. The designer Damna Gvasalia introduced the ‘Multicoloured New York Bazar Shopper’ tote in the summer of 2018, but recently a New York souvenir company by the name of City Merchandise has sued them of copyright infringement. The luxury bag costing $1,950 was painted with an identical sunset-pink skyline manufactured on many of City Merchandise’s souvenirs and bags. For designers stimulated by many of New York’s bodegas and shops, this is a very serious accusation and required designers to add their own ideas to their bodega bags – even if it means covering them in crystals. However, to say corner shops or plastic shopper bags are strictly seen in New York would be false; this kind of consumer culture can be found in all major cities. The Italian brand Fendi helped make this a global fashion trend with their men’s black
Ashish FW/18-19 | Photo by Luca Tombolini/ Indigital.tv
tote, giving the double handled plastic take-away bag a rubbery, matte finish. London-based designer Ashish took a more colourful take on the bodega bag, giving one model various bags in pink, yellow and blue to carry down the runway. Juxtaposed with a sequinned American Express T-shirt over a pink dress, this model seemed to insinuate a more critical message about our throw-away culture. In fact, the potential for designers like Ashish, Alexander Wang and Gelareh Mizrahi to be analytical and self-aware
of their role in consumer culture comes at a crucial time for the environment. As rising importance is cast on the fashion industry’s role in sustainability and quelling fast fashion desires, both designers and consumers have the responsibility of shaping our consumption of plastic and short-term-use products. The bodega bag might be a passing trend in fashion, but the longevity they provide for shoppers is just one of the ways fashion can help reduce disposable items like the plastic bodega bag.
Salty Air Photography Nicky Emmerson Style Sara Dunn Model Emily Jones c/o Select Model Management Hair Style Paul Percival Makeup Jessica Mejia
Jumper Paul & Jo | Dress Bora Asku e
Vest Johnstons of Elgin
Dress Temperley | Shirt Maje
Jumper Johnstones of Elgin | Dress Temperley | Boots Dr Martens
Dress Yang Li | Jumper Vince
Coat Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto | Dress Bora Aksu | Boots Vintage Rokit
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