African Travel Market 2018

2018

Tswalu an exclusive wildlife experience www.atmmag.net

Slackpacking hiking without the hardship

2018

10 TOP

AFRICAN SUMMITS

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Nature meets luxury at Camp Nomande

THE Royal Livingstone FALLING INLOVE WITH

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South Africa truly does have some wonderful sites to behold apart from Maropeng. We have the beauty of the vineyards and mountainous scenery in the Cape, we have the various museums of Johannesburg, the warm waters at the Natal beaches, and who can forget our incredible wildlife? With so much to see in one country alone, we forget that there is still so much more the continent as a

our local Drakensburg mountain range; I am sure to be absolutely captivated by the sight of Africa’s highest peak.

Morocco is also on my list. Many of us become enthralled by the beauty of the churches and cathedrals in Europe, whereas similar beauty and enchantment can be found in the mosques of Morocco. Not only can Morocco offer this architectural beauty, but also a nature bound experience of seeing the Moroccan Sahara desert while on camel back. I’d follow that with a good lamb tagine!

Another area of Africa to explore on camel back is Egypt. For centuries, we have been fascinated by the rich history and culture which lives in Egypt, we can become captivated by its mysteries as we view one of the Great Wonders of the World, The Pyramids of Giza!

Life begins at 30, and my life as a 30something year old African woman will be enriched by the melting pot of cultures, wonders, and sheer beauty that our underrated continent possesses.

Go on and #discoverAfrica!

photographS: Kwenta Media.

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hey say life begins at 30, and since I’ve turned 30, I believe it’s time to explore more of where life itself began, Africa.

Did you know that so far, most of the evidence that we have points to Africa as the Cradle of Humankind?

whole has to offer!

I have been lucky enough to explore other countries in Africa such as Botswana and Mozambique and the Seychelles.

During the rainy season, Botswana’s Okavango Delta becomes a magnificent maze of lakes, waterways and islands providing incredible photographic opportunities whereas Seychelles provides a muchneeded escape from city life.

As far as I’m concerned, nobody can rival the seafood and prawns in Mozambique! Long days on the beautiful Mozambican beaches fade into fantastic nights sipping on their famous Rum & Rasbery (R&R) at the bars. And yet, as an African, I still feel as though I am so oblivious to the extent of the unforgettable experiences, which my continent offers! I have experienced South Africa’s wildlife, but I have not yet seen the great migration, the world’s most extraordinary wildlife experience, which takes place in Tanzania. While I’m on the subject of Tanzania, it is the home to another incredible sight, Mount Kilimanjaro. Though I may have seen

M i m u T

02 | African Travel Market

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Publisher Editor – Tumi Mdluli publisher@kwentamedia.com Editorial Team Features Editor – Kati Dijane Online Writers – Thina Mthembu Sub-Editor – Tracy Maher Proofreader – Nuraan Motlekar editorial@kwentamedia.com Production Production Manager – Nuraan Motlekar nuraan@kwentamedia.com Design Team Senior Designer – Lelethu Tobi Designer – Prince Ngwenya Business Development & Sales Team Nuraan Motlekar advertising@kwentamedia.com Operations & Finance Manager Nuraan Motlekar accounts@kwentamedia.com Admin Assistant – Palesa Sethlapelo Drivers Gabriel Mashishi Kamohelo Mokoena Yusuf Msinyi Contributors Bridget Hilton-Barber, Melissa-Jane Cook, Di Brown, Kate Els, Bulelwa Mokori Published by Kwenta Media Physical Address: Kwenta House, 19 Weaver Street, Fourways, Johannesburg Tel: +27 (0)11 467 5859 Fax: +27 (0)86 416 1529

African Travel Market (ATM) is 100% owned and published by Kwenta Media (Pty) Ltd. The publisher and editor reserve the right to alter copy and visual material as deemed necessary.

Copyright by Kwenta Media (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved.

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CONTENTS 2018

REGULARS 02 Editor’s Letter 14 City Beats

ON THE COVER Image by Tswalu Kalahari Reserve

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33

CONTENTS 2018

FEATURES Nature meets luxury at Camp Nomande

14

Goodbye Malaria: Fashion meets impact

16

Ten of Africa’s top summits

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A woodland spa experience

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Crystal lagoons

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The island vibes of Blue Zebra Lodge

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Tswalu, an exclusive wildlife experience

40

Leshiba’s mountaintop magic

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Living the life at the Royal Livingstone

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Slackpacking: hiking without the hardship

60

Photo essay: Vintage air rally across Africa

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South Africa’s grape expectations

76

Growing the tourism pie

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Highlights of some of Africa’s great cities and what to do when you get there.

SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN KIGALI, RWANDA SHOP: There are a number of smart shopping malls in Kigali city centre with chic boutiques and coffee shops. But if you’re after something more authentic, take a stroll around one or two of its lively markets.

If you like browsing for curios and souvenirs from your Rwanda holiday, pay a visit to the Caplaki handicrafts cooperative, which sells a variety of local crafts.

EAT: Rebub Lounge is one of the best restaurants in the Rwandan capital, not to mention the top place for drinks at sundown. It attracts a chic clientéle with great music, friendly service, and dishes like the superbly salty, deep-fried sambas, a sardine-like freshwater fish from Lake Kivu. Take a trip to Heaven, the brainchild of a San Franciscan couple aspiring to find some way of actively sustaining the development of Kigali and supporting the local youth. Offering unrivalled quality and impeccably high-standards, Heaven is the perfect place to escape the bustle of the city and relax in an environment surrounded by lush and verdant nature.

SLEEP: Kigali’s accommodation options are spread around the city and range from smart four- or five-star hotels to lower budget bed and breakfasts. While many are of a good international standard, including Hôtel des Mile Collins which was the basis for the 2004 film Hotel Rwanda, you should be aware that service can often be quite slow in their bars and restaurants. The Kigali Serena Hotel is a large upmarket hotel with plenty of modern facilities. The hotel is clean and comfortable, and a great option for a night or two.

SEE: The lively Yamaimo area of Kigali is regarded as the most vibrant quarter of the city, known for its many bars and cafés. Yamaimo Women’s Centre offers interesting walking tours around their neighbourhood that take in their own craft shop, a typical Rwandan meal and the local market too. Kigali’s museums including the State House Museum and the Natural History Museum are worthy of a visit, with the latter having superb views over the city. Perhaps the city’s best-known landmark, and with good reason, is the very moving Kigali Genocide Memorial standing amid beautiful rose gardens and fountains. The memorial sets out the history leading up to the genocide in Rwanda (1994) and also explains other genocides around the world.

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SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN LUXOR, EGYPT

SHOP: There are different markets in Luxor. One is located in an air-conditioned hall, with shops located on either side, and connects two major streets. The older market takes up several streets near the Luxor temple and is a joy to walk through, as it is mostly pedestrian and is a welcome respite from the horse and carriages on the main streets. This market really feels like an old souk and the visitor is taken back in time. Once you find a merchant you like, sit down, have some tea, and begin the game of bargaining. The main Souk in Luxor lies on the AbdEl-Hameed Taha and consists of the section for tourists, and the section for locals. But if you continue straight ahead (north of Mostafa Kamel), passing by the garden, you will come to the real Souk, where the locals go shopping.

EAT: Sofra Restaurant & Café is located in the middle of Luxor town and is one of the best restaurants in the city, with authentic Egyptian food. It is also a great place to relax and smoke Shisha too; the tea with mint is highly recommended. The Lantern Room seems to be the best place at the moment for fabulous dining. A broad-spectrum menu covers exceptional Egyptian, Mediterranean, International and British dishes that provide choices not easily matched. From their delicious soups and starters to gourmet main courses (stuffed pigeons) and desserts, you will need more than one visit to enjoy their special selection.

SLEEP: Luxor has an extremely wide variety of accommodation options, from camping and hostels, right up to five-star luxury hotels like the Old Winter Palace Hotel which is of extreme opulence and has played host to both movie stars and heads of state. Mara House, Salah Al Din Al Ayoubi is an award-winning little hotel, tucked away in a quiet residential area. The décor is Arab/mamluk style and quite charming. Alpa Apartment is a two-bedroom apartment situated on the fourth floor of a typical building where locals live, ideal for leisurely exploration of all that Luxor has to offer. It is air-conditioned with spacious furnished rooms that can accommodate up to four people. The owner speaks English and has an extensive knowledge of the local antiquities, sites and activities.

SEE: Of all Luxor’s many monuments, the Temple Complex of Karnak has to be its most astonishing feature. Within its precincts you will find the Great Temple of Amun, the Temple of Khons, and the Festival Temple of Tuthmosis III. The famed Valley of the Kings, hidden between rocky escarpments, was the final resting place for the kings of the 18th, 19th, and 20th dynasties, with wonderfully vivid wall paintings. Here, 63 tombs a roll-call of famous names of Egyptian history including the famous boy-king, Tutankhamun are found.

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SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE Kampala, UGANDA SHOP: Filled with a great range of restaurants as well as shops, Garden City is a one-stop shopping place worth visiting. Situated next to the golf course within Kololo, along Yusufu Lule Road, Garden City is a huge building you will certainly not miss. This mall houses a variety of shops, restaurants, salons, a health and fitness club and entertainment venues. The craft and souvenir stores offer a good alternative to the craft markets. Although these provide a more relaxed shopping experience, you will pay a lot more than you probably could have bargained for at the craft market. Banana Boat is found on the ground floor of this large mall and it is an excellent option for people reluctant to head to the markets. They offer all the items one would get in the craft markets in the city.

EAT: Coming highly recommended is The Lawns Restaurant, with excellent meat served, superb selection of drinks and great service. It’s located in such a calm, green environment with rabbits and soft music. The Masala Chaat House is an authentic Indian-style budget restaurant with a variety of dishes. Try the South Indian Mini Thali in this cosy, delicious spot.

SLEEP: The Kampala Serena Hotel is an oasis of green with water pools and fountains everywhere, it is difficult to believe that you are in the centre of a bustling city. Immaculately and tastefully furnished, the attention to detail is splendid. Another one for the books is the Munyonyo Commonwealth Resort, with incredible conference facilities, located at the bank of the great Lake Victoria. The resort offers incredible choices of mixed cuisine of local and international standard.

SEE: Bulange is the Buganda Kingdom’s parliament. Monthly Parliament sessions focus on issues of tradition, culture and development. The Kabaka (king) visits Bulange twice a year, to open the sessions at the beginning of the year and close the sessions at the end of the year. The Lubiri is located on a stretch covering one mile and is the official residence of the Kabaka. The Kasubi Tombs are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the burial ground for some of the kings of Buganda.

In Buganda, it is believed that the King does not die but rather disappears. Gadhafi Mosque is the national mosque in Uganda and it was built with support from the late Libyan leader, Muammar Gadhafi. It has a rich history with its location on the original colonial capital and one of the original ‘seven hills’ of Kampala. Climb up the many steps of the mosque to see Kampala from a bird’s eye view.

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SHOP/EAT/SLEEP/SEE IN LUANDA, ANGOLA

SHOP: There are many modern shopping malls in the booming city of Luanda, where you can find quality products. Belas is a rather large mall that boasts a number of high-end fashion retailers, as well as a stunning supermarket. There aren’t many finedining options, but the food court does have a wide range of takeaway and fast-food places.

EAT: Even though the prices are high, both locals and tourists agree that Lookal Mar sells the best seafood in Luanda. Adding to the experience is the beautiful open-air seaside setting. Nikki’s House restaurant is located in a quaint house in the Maianga neighbourhood in Luanda, which has been transformed into a fine-dining experience with an international fusion menu.

Book ahead as this venue requires reservations. Chill Out Restaurant, though better known for its club vibe, has some of the best culinary offerings in Luanda. It is situated along the scenic coastline, providing a calming and natural setting to the restaurant’s already laid-back ambiance. If diners so choose, meals can even be prepared on the beach itself. Chill Out is one of the best venues within Luanda’s high-end restaurant circuit.

SLEEP: EPIC SANA Luanda Hotel is a five-star business hotel; not much charm, but the rooms are comfortable and the service is excellent. There is also a very good gym on the premises.

Hotel Baia Luanda is an extremely comfortable place to stay while in town for business, and offers fantastic breakfast buffet, clean comfortable rooms and a quite extensive TV channel selection. The quiet lobby area has plenty of seating to meet with associates.

WORDS: MELISSA JANE COOK. IMAGES: SUPPLIED.

SEE: The Fortress of São Miguel built in 1576 was once the headquarters of the Commander-in-Chief of the Portuguese Armed Forces in Angola. One of the best things about the fortress are the elaborate ceramic tiles inside that tell the story of Angola. Learn about slavery at The National Slavery Museum located in Morro da Cruz, founded in 1997 by the National Institute of Cultural Patrimony with the objective of depicting the history of slavery in Angola. Built in 1628, the Cathedral of the Holy Saviour is the Roman Catholic Church of Luanda. The architecture is magnificent, and it is where the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Luanda is housed today.

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INTO THE WILD

NATURE MEETS LUXURY

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THE NEWLY ESTABLISHED CAMP NOMADE IN THE HEART OF CHAD’S ZAKOUMA NATIONAL PARK IS THE PERFECT GETAWAY FOR THE ECO-FRIENDLY TRAVELLER

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or picturesque African landscapes and a world of teeming of wildlife, head to Central Africa’s Chad, home to Zakouma National Park. Considered to be one of the continent’s big conservation success stories, Zakouma is one of the three national parks in Chad and is the only game-viewing destination in the country that offers its guests accommodation.

Zakouma is one of the most important protected areas in Central and West Africa and, like many parts of Africa, it has two very distinct seasons: the wet season between June and November and the dry season between January and May. What makes the highly protected, clean park welcoming, apart from its diverse animal and birdlife, is the newly added, exclusive and highly sought-after Camp Nomade.

WHERE TO STAY

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Zoukoma offers three camps, including Camp Nomade, with its tent design inspired by the traditional nomadic camps of the Sahel region. It is beautifully adorned with brightly coloured local carpets, nomadic bells and brassware. There are eight tents with a maximum capacity for eight guests,

plus their own private guide.

Since Chad is a malaria area, each tent has a black mosquito net ‘box’ which offers 360-degree game viewing from the comfort of your bed with a stretch canvas above to provide shade. For extra protection bring a cream insect repellent, as it’s difficult to bring aerosol insect repellents into Chad. There is an elegant bathroom in each tent made from local grass fencing, a rustic bucket shower and hot water. Each en-suite bathroom provides a full view of the wilderness around you. Nights will never be the same as you view brightly lit stars pasted on the velvet sky from your lantern-lit tents.

WHAT TO DO Camp Nomade has several locations throughout the park,

each positioned for its incredible game viewing. Imagine welcoming the day with game drives, as you feast your eyes on majestic beasts and black crown cranes. Tap into your wild, adventurous side with walking safaris available at the park or visit the local markets for one of the most authentic cultural visits you will ever experience.

For a bird’s eye view of this wilderness, try fly camping (walking safari and sleeping out in the open) with nomads to the north of the park or along the banks of the Salamat River. Marvel at the large flocks of quelea birds moving through the park, resting in their millions in certain trees, or enjoy the sight of antelopes and buffaloes frequenting the water bank.

The best time to visit this mobile camp is during the dry season from December to April, when the water starts drying out and birds and wildlife become more concentrated around their rivers and floodplains. January can be very cool, with early morning and evening temperatures dropping as low as 10 degree Celsius. Be advised to bring warm clothing for early morning and night drives, but note that midday temperatures can still reach 30

degrees Celsius. Add ecotourism to your bucket list this year for a different view of nature and to make a contribution to the tourism revenue that is put directly back into the park management.

By Kati Dijane

HOW TO GET THERE Zakouma Park is a 12- to 14-hour drive from Chad’s capital airport, N’Djamena (860km). Vehicles are available for hire from N’Djamena at a daily rate of around 200,000 CFA for a 4X4, including fuel and a driver. This rate varies depending on the operator. If you prefer an aerial view, it will take two hours by air.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING

Fashion meets impact Goodbye Malaria offers those itching to fight for a cause bigger than them the chance to make an impact in the lives of others

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he Goodbye Malaria initiative was founded by four passionate entrepreneurs – Robbie Brozin (also the founder of Nandos), Kim Lazarus, David Stern and Sherwin Charles – and is a cause that is centred on the eradication of malaria in Africa.

“We founded Goodbye Malaria because we felt that malaria was a disease that could be beaten and we had the tools to eliminate it,” says Sherwin Charles (CEO). Their strong desire to impact Africa in a major way motivated this team of entrepreneurs to contribute to the fight of the malaria endemic by joining forces and starting this movement.

reduction in the spread of malaria is the Indoor Residual Spray (IRS) programme. A team of dedicated frontline community members – The Boane Spray Team in Boane District in Maputo – are involved in spraying residences to curb the onslaught of malaria in affected areas.

A beaming Charles was excited to share that for the next three years, the Goodbye Malaria team will be taking their efforts to the whole of Maputo Province of Mozambique, thanks largely to the tremendous support of the Global Fund.

WHEN FASHION MEETS IMPACT PROJECTS/PROGRAMMES The Goodbye Malaria team works tirelessly to implement control programmes called Elimination Programmes in malaria-infested areas in Africa such as Mozambique, which has the highest prevalence of the disease. One particular programme which boasts of more than 70%

‘Save a life in your sleep’ is a creative concept for merchandise that was borne from the desire to use fashion and clothing to fight the malaria scourge. Your contribution to the cause comes from purchasing the assortment of items and clothing sold. Charles says they wanted to create some “really cool” merchandise that people would love to wear, knowing

that part of their purchase would go to a worthy cause.

This is where fashion meets impact.

You get to look cool, while at the same time contributing to a greater cause. The style concept around this merchandising is the use of the popular African shweshwe fabric.

Expect to be dazzled by items such as pyjama-style pants that you can don “from the bedroom to the boardroom”.

They come in five Afrocentric colours, in either regular size or slim fit, and can be matched with stylish T-shirts that will complement your look. The adventure shirts are right up the alley of those looking to make a statement. No look is complete without accessories. Choose from yellow or mixed beaded bracelets that come in packs of 10 or 25. These hand-beaded works of art have an authentic look and feel that can only come from products that embody the African spirit.

The ‘save a life in your sleep’ collection is not just geared towards adults. The Mashozi bear is sure to evoke squeals of

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delight in children the world over. Mashozi bears are hand-made by talented women from shweshwe fabric cut-offs and come in five different colours. The ‘Mashozi’ name which means ‘the woman who wears the pants’ was coined to pay homage to the passing of the wife of Kingsley Holgate, a humanitarian veteran who has contributed massively in the fight against malaria.

The collection’s winter and summer slippers for all ages are also hand-made with a touch of African flair. Other items made include bucket hats and summer hats. The impact of ‘save a life in your sleep’ is not just geared towards fighting malaria. It is also an undertaking that contributes towards the growth of the South African economy in the form of job creation opportunities for up-and-coming entrepreneurs.

When asked about the motivation behind the desire to help entrepreneurs, Charles responded with palpable excitement: “Our strategy in terms of our merchandise is really to use the smaller producers, trying to support people who are up and coming with the development of their product, help them with their designs, and also give them a platform where the product can be sold.” All the products are locally manufactured, adding more credence to the slogan ‘local is lekker’.

AMBASSADORS FOR A BETTER FUTURE The fight for the eradication of malaria has attracted people with a similar vision, most notably Kingsley Holgate and his late wife Gill Mashozi Holgate, Yvonne Chaka Chaka and Micasa. Dubbed the Princess of Africa, Chaka Chaka is a sensational award-wining artist who is not only an ambassador of Goodbye Malaria, but she is also a Goodwill Ambassador for the much acclaimed UNICEF and Roll Back Malaria (a Goodbye Malaria partner).

Much like Chaka Chaka, Micasa (a popular SA house group who have taken the music industry by storm) are also ambassadors for Goodbye Malaria, and stalwarts for the cause.

WHAT CAN YOU DO? According to Charles, Goodbye Malaria is always looking for ambassadors. What qualifies as an ambassador? “People who believe they can make a difference, share a view that malaria can be eradicated, and know that the difference they make has a huge social impact on our communities,” says Charles.

He encourages people to also make their contribution by being an active voice on social media platforms: Facebook (Goodbye Malaria), Twitter (@ GoodbyeMalariaZ) and Instagram (@ goodbyemalaria). Be part of a greater vision to eliminate Malaria in Africa!

By Sakhile Mogale

WHERE TO SHOP ‘Save a life in your sleep’ collection can be found on a myriad of platforms, such as the online shopping platform on the Goodbye Malaria (www.goodbyemalaria. com). There are also pop-up stores at the OR Tambo airport (one in the domestic section and one in the international section). Exhibitions are also held on market days to showcase their merchandise. For more information, visit: www. goodbyemalaria.com or call +27 (0)11 216 3527.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING

10 OF AFRICA’S

FEW SIGHTS OF AFRICA COMPARE TO THOSE FROM UP HIGH…

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here is so much to be said of those travellers dedicated to hiking the world’s most splendid trails. The time, dedication and effort required for multi-day hikes; the preparation that goes into the planning for each trip, and the pure physical exhaustion from dragging yourself up to the summit are all an achievement in their own right.

It’s the concerted effort and planning that often deters other travellers from attempting these hikes done, but those in the know are aware of a feeling of euphoria that can only be achieved from reaching the top of a mountain peak and feeling as if you’ve reached the ceiling of the world.

Africa’s topographical qualities make it a sought-after destination for world travellers looking for the next highlight of their hiking career. From the snow-capped peaks of South Africa’s Drakensberg to the varying climates of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, we’d recommend adding all of these hikes to your list.

TOP

SUMMITS

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LEFT AND BELOW: ATLAS MOUNTAINS

1. JEBEL TOUBKAL OF THE ATLAS MOUNTAINS Morocco Morocco’s Atlas Mountains are a haven for hikers, trekkers and walkers, with weaving paths that vary from easy to difficult traversing the peaks and troughs of the landscape.

Jebel Toubkal is the literal feather in the cap for experienced hikers, and a considerable physical achievement.

As the tallest point of the Atlas Mountains, Toubkal is 4 167m in height and is just 65km south of Marrakech. The highlight for most hikers is the chance to stay in small ‘gites’, or mountain guesthouses, to really experience the culture of rural Morocco.

When to go: The fringe seasons of Spring and Autumn are best, but the destination is good year-round. High-altitude mountain passes can be snowy in winter, with freezing temperatures.

Difficulty rating: 4/5 Duration: 2 to 3 days Insider tip: Toubkal can be hiked in just two days if you’re fit, experienced and willing to move at a decent pace. It is possible to hike alone, but the local guides are very good and experienced.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING

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LEFT TOP TO BOTTOM: FISH RIVER CANYON; MT. CAMEROON; DRAKENSBERG; SIMIEN MOUNTAINS

2. FISH RIVER CANYON

3. MOUNT CAMEROON

Namibia

Cameroon

One of the most renowned hikes in southern Africa is the Fish River Canyon. Taking hikers anywhere between five and seven days, this hike begins with a steep descent into the canyon itself, before weaving along the riverbed from Hobas towards Ai-Ais in southern Namibia.

While this trail is largely level, loose rocks, boulders and a handful of steep climbs along the way require consistent stamina, which is rewarded each day with an incredible view of an undisturbed night sky.

When to go: The trail is only open during Namibia’s cooler months of May to September.

Difficulty rating: 3/5 Duration: 90km, 5 or 6 days Insider tip: Pack a water pump to clarify your muddy river water, and chlorine tablets if you’re worried about any bacteria that may have contaminated water sources along the way. Take your time to enjoy the trail, but make sure to cover ample distance each day to prevent spending extra days on the trail.

Hikers that have braved both Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Cameroon will often tell you that the latter is a much more difficult beast to tame. The popular Guinness Trail, made famous for the annual Guinness-sponsored trail run to the top, is a relentless climb that leads straight up rather than zig-zags its way to the summit. Hikers can expect very basic huts to shield them from the extreme weather conditions on Mount Cameroon, with temperatures dropping drastically at night.

When to go: November to April (before the rainy season that causes the volcanic trails to become too slippery and dangerous to traverse).

Difficulty rating: 4.5/5 Duration: 2 or 3 days Insider tip: Guides and porters are not negotiable when attempting to climb Mount Cameroon. There are various guiding companies, but keep an eye out for those with good responsible tourism practices that enhance the standard of living of their porters and guides.

4. CATHEDRAL PEAK IN THE DRAKENSBERG

5. RAS DEJEN OF THE SIMIEN MOUNTAINS

South Africa

Ethiopia

The Drakensberg is a veritable paradise for hikers and walkers with the variety of mountains and opportunities for landscape photography and birding, and Cathedral Peak should be on your to-do list. This hike conveniently starts at the Cathedral Peak Hotel (which also happens to be a great place to stay when in the area), and involves a little bit of bushwhacking before starting to ascend Cathedral Peak. A well-marked path will lead you to the top if you choose to go it alone, but local guides are available at a minimal cost.

When to go: Snowy weather and freezing temperatures in winter (June through August) can make this hike unpleasant, so opt for a date that promises warmer temperatures.

Difficulty rating: 4/5 Duration: 1 day, approximately 10 hours Insider tip: Take at least three litres of water for this hike.

Yes, it’s only a few hours, but the steep climbs and hot summer sun can take its toll quickly. Leave early in the morning to avoid an afternoon thundershower and be back in time for afternoon tea at the hotel below.

A major highlight when summiting any of the multiple peaks of Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains is the opportunity to spot some of the rarest wildlife on the planet, including the Gelada baboon and Walia ibex.

A network of trails and huts makes it easy to navigate the mountains with the assistance of a local guide.

Hikers can expect major differences in altitude as they traverse from hut to hut, and it is recommended that donkeys be hired to carry heavier items, especially if opting to spend more than a couple of days in the Simien Mountains.

When to go: January through June is better because of the drier weather, but trails are open year-round.

Difficulty rating: 4/5 Duration: 3 to 10 days, depending on which campsites you choose to visit.

Insider tip: All hikers are required to travel with a guide.

Make sure you hire a trekking guide registered with the Walia Local Guides Association. You will need to register, pay your trekking fees and meet your guide at the Simien Mountains National Park Headquarters.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING RIGHT top to bottom: MT. KILIMANJARO; MT. KENYA; MT. MULANJE; MT. SINAI

6. MOUNT KILIMANJARO

7. MOUNT KENYA

Tanzania

Kenya

Without a doubt the most desired (and notorious) mountain to hike in Africa is also its tallest. Mount Kilimanjaro stands proud at just under 20 000 feet, and hikers that brave its climbs will move through five different climatic zones before reaching the summit.

There are a number of routes that wind their way up to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, each with its own challenges and level of difficulty. While the easier routes of Machame, Shira and Limosho are an option, less experienced hikers are recommended to take the longer, slower routes to prevent the likelihood of altitude sickness.

When to go: July through October and December through February are most popular because of the dry weather.

Difficulty rating: 4/5 Duration: 6 to 9 days Insider tip: In a study of hikers that attempted the Mount Kilimanjaro route, those that opted to do so over more days were significantly more likely to reach the summit.

Mount Kenya’s ‘side peaks’ are more easily summited, while the main summit of Mount Kenya needs to be carefully considered due to the technical nature of this hike. Huts are available to hikers to overnight on their way to the summit. Mount Kenya is often glossed over in favour of its neighbour, Mount Kilimanjaro, and hikers are advised to research the available trails as they allow for both trekking to smaller peaks, and the more technical climbs involving ice, snow and rock for the more experienced.

When to go: January, February and July through to October Difficulty rating: 4/5, easier dependent on the selected trail.

Duration: 4 to 6 days Insider tip: An experienced guide is an absolute must for Mount Kenya. Hikers have fallen into the trap of climbing too quickly here and experiencing altitude sickness from the second day. Opt for somebody who can control a consistent, reasonable pace for your group.

8. MOUNT MULANJE

9. MOUNT SINAI

Malawi

Egypt

Fondly called the ‘Island in the Sky’ by locals, Mount Mulanje is an impressive, twisted mass of granite with bare rock flanks that tower to almost 10 000 feet, dwarfing all that surrounds it. It lies to the east of the capital Blantyre and is easily accessible. Visitors can drive round the foot of the massif in a day if they’d like, but it is even more worthwhile to trek and camp on the mountain where clear hiking trails and wellmaintained huts are available to hikers.

When to go: May to August is the coolest time of the year to hike Mulanje.

Difficulty rating: 3/5 Duration: 2 to 3 days Insider tip: You are required to hire a local guide if you wish to climb Mount Mulanje, and you can also hire a porter if you would like help with the weight of your pack.

Fresh water is available from the streams on the mountain.

The mysticism surrounding Mount Sinai in Egypt is enough to draw anybody in and whether you see it as a pilgrimage or an opportunity for a shorter day’s hike, this one is well worth braving the crowds. Choose from two trails of varying difficulty to get you to the top and stop along the way for refreshment at one of the mountain’s traditional mud huts. Walking at night is an extremely popular choice at Mount Sinai, as candles and starlight light the paths.

When to go: Hike the mountain between the peaks of the hot summer (May to October) and mild winter (November to April) months.

Difficulty rating: 3/5 Duration: 4 to 5 hours Insider tip: Because of the hot days, most hikers opt to hike up Mount Sinai in time for sunrise. If you can take the heat and the idea of a less crowded summit is appealing, then consider hiking in the afternoon to watch the sunset.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING LEFT: MT. NYANGANI

10. MOUNT NYANGANI

WHAT TO PACK If you’re just starting out as a hiker, you might be tempted to bring along every gadget you can find at your local outdoor store. Rather than weighing yourself down, make sure you just have the basics, plus a few comforts to keep you happy when the going gets rough:  A trekking pole: Really just a fancy walking stick that can be extended via its telescopic poles, a trekking pole can be handy on tough climbs. The rubber tip can assist with grip on rocky surfaces, while the strap attached to the handle will help you pull yourself up when it feels like your legs are going to give out.  Just a little nip: To counter the cold and rainy weather, some hikers like to pack something soothing and warm.

Hot chocolate sachets, herbal teas and whisky are all favourites. Decant anything from a glass bottle into a plastic one to cut down on weight.  Blister plasters: It doesn’t matter if your shoes feel as if they’re the most comfortable pair you’ve ever owned, repetitive motion and sweat will eventually cause your feet to blister. Don’t ever ‘pop’ them! Rather be ready to make yourself as comfortable as you can for the next stretch.  Pack a multi-tool: You never know when you’ll need a pair of pliers to pull a thorn out the sole of your shoe, or a knife to chop up your food for dinner. Invest in a good quality multi-tool that covers a wide range of functions.  Take a water pump: If it isn’t feasible to carry water for a few days (it usually isn’t), you’ll need a system of sorts to filter fresh water to drink. A water pump will help clarify water and make it drinkable, but if you’re still concerned, pack a set of chlorine tablets.

IMAGES: DAVID DAVIS, EDGARDO W. OLIVERA, HANS BIRGER NILSEN, PIXABAY, AFRICANWANDERING.FILES.WORDPRESS.COM, CIRCLEOFLIFEMALAWI.FILES.WORDPRESS.COM, ZIMBABWETOURISM.NET.

ZIMBABWE As the highest mountain in Zimbabwe, Mount Nyangani is a popular summit to climb for both locals and travellers alike. A comfortable half-day hike, Mount Nyangani is a relatively easy trail, and the summit can be reached within two hours.

The mystical stories surrounding the mountain ‘that swallows people’ have been told over the years, creating a sense of foreboding around the mountain. Just to be safe, the rangers of the Nyanga National Park in which Mount Nyangani is located, insist on the assistance of a guide when climbing the mountain.

When to go: All year round, but the weather becomes treacherous quickly and no one is allowed to climb after 15h00.

Difficulty rating: 3/5 Duration: 3 to 4 hours Insider tip: The roads to Nyanga National Park are not well maintained, and it is advised to drive in a 4x4 when heading in this direction. Mist and erratic weather can be dangerous when hiking Mount Nyangani, so try your best for a clear day and keep an eye on any sudden clouds on the horizon.

By Kate Els

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EXPERIENCE

LIMPOPO

SEE, TOUCH, HEAR, FEEL & TASTE Limpopo is an ancient land of myth and legend that is broad, boundless and exquisite. She beckons with a mystic allure that travellers far and wide find impossible to resist. This is the land of the Golden Rhino, the Rain Queen Modjadji, The Kruger National Park, the proud and majestic Baobab Tree.

Whatever your pleasure, whatever your game, come and experience the warm hospitality of our people, our mouth-watering cuisine, the diversity of wildlife, the vast landscape, history and a melting pot of cultures that is admirable.

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Break away and make Limpopo your fortress. Enjoy the culture, explore nature and chase the adventure.

Visit www.golimpopo.com or call 015 293 3600 to discover the beauty that Limpopo has to offer.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING

A WOODLAND SPA EXPERIENCE Whether it is the ambience, facilities or the service that distinguishes one spa from another, Woodlands Spa appears to have balanced its equation of holistic healing to perfection

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his nugget of relaxation can be found in The Cradle of Humankind in Muldersdrift, an easy 40-minute drive from Johannesburg or Pretoria – far enough from the city vibe, but close enough to warrant the journey for a day’s indulgence or even just a single treatment.

Woodlands Spa understands the sophistication to be found in simplicity, a concept that has been effectively carried out in the décor, menus (both treatment and dining) and styling. The

large open interior leads out onto an impressive wooden deck overlooking the Crocodile River, adding to the continuity of space and fusion with the natural surrounds.

Neutral tones with pops of colour compliment the blues, greens and browns beyond the large windows, and continental pride is evident in the choice of Africology treatment products used. Synergy between natural and man-made is important here – and they have succeeded.

Owner and manager, Tania Pheiffer shares that as an independent operation, Woodlands Spa is able to select and maintain its standards without fear of dilution of quality through large franchises. Each therapist

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undergoes stringent training under the premise that knowledge, technique, skill and attitude are the ingredients to guest service and satisfaction.

LIVING CONSCIOUSLY The value of their treatments is underscored by the ideology of conscious or mindful living. A secluded woodland environment sets the scene for the real work to take place, which begins with a lesson in breath work. In a life of inordinate stresses, we give little thought to how we breathe and yet it is the single most important physical activity we do.

Dr Ela Manga has worked in energy management for 15 years, and offers her guidance with simple breathing activities to help restore you to a state of calmness.

There is something magical about being invited to breathe that attunes you to yourself and the environment. .

THIS PAGE FROM TOP TO BOTTOM:WOODLANDS SPA; RESTAURANT DECK; TREATMENT ROOMS

Guests can opt for an introductory session before moving on to another part of their schedule, or they can engage with Dr Ela and her team of practitioners for a lengthier exploration of art of breathing or other supportive therapies that form part of the conscious living creed, such as acupuncture, Reiki, crystal healing and reflexology.

TREATING WHAT AILS Woodlands Spa offers a wide variety of individual treatments, from therapeutic to beauty, along with carefully chosen complementary packages: Journey Treatments help stimulate the circulatory and lymphatic systems, and help with the skin’s appearance; Therapies Treatments are aimed at wellbeing, energy restoration and inner calmness.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SPA EXPERIENCE  Know what you want and why you are going.  Do your research. Check out the available spas near your location or destination and their facilities to see what best suits your specific needs.  Be punctual and considerate of others.  Be friendly to the staff and remember that they are professionals.  Communicate. Explain your needs to the person taking your booking, so that they can make the best treatment selection for you. Talk to your spa therapists about your expectations for the treatment.  Feedback: Let the therapists know if you are uncomfortable, feeling pain or need anything.

Also tell them if they are doing a great job.  Assessment: Don’t be afraid to assess your experience and report it to the manager in a polite, constructive manner.

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SPORT, LEISURE, SHOPPING

this page from top to bottom: JACUZZI POOL; TREATMENT ROOM

of 30 guests, they will feel and enjoy the freedom of movement.

All too soon, soft words will remind you that your escape into the woodlands has come to an end. This day will become a fleeting moment in the time to come, but there is little doubt that the memory will remain a conscious, mindful one, prompting your return.

Expectations vary. Some seek solitude to reconnect with the self; others look forward to a time of pampering. And then there are those who appreciate the camaraderie of a group gathering. Woodlands Spa checks all these boxes and more, and excels in its mission to help you let go, relax and heal. For more information and booking details, visit: www. woodlandsspa.co.za or call +27 (0)10 010 5026 or +27 (0)63 692 0665.

By Tracy Maher

IMAGES: SUPPLIED.

Entering your first treatment in an enhanced, almost meditative state after a breath-work session guarantees a greater susceptibility to the relaxing, restorative powers of your therapy.

The fragrance of aromatherapy oils becomes stronger, the feel of water against your skin more sensuous, and the touch of your masseuse more strategic – all set against a backdrop of nature’s own symphony.

As the river flows seamlessly over and around the obstacles that lie in its path, so too have Woodlands Spa staff conquered the intrusion of time. Schedules are planned in such a way as to minimise inconvenience, and the effortless transition between treatments is a subtle reminder of greater connectedness. The open plan design gives the illusion of unlimited space, and even if there is a full quota

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AT M / / 2 0 8 6 E

B E C A P T I VAT E D BY T H E P E R E N N I A L BE AU T Y The Table Bay, opened in May 1997 by iconic former South African president, Nelson Mandela, is situated on the historic Victoria and Alfred Waterfront.

Perfectly positioned against the exquisite backdrop of Table Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean, The Table Bay provides a gateway to Cape Town’s most popular allures.

A stay at The Best Address in Cape Town affords every guest once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to be graced by the synergy of two oceans and be captivated by the sheer beauty of the Cape’s breathtaking sceneries.

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Eat, Play, Stay

ALCAZABA IN SPAIN

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Crystal Lagoons It would seem unlikely for a new body of water to spring up in Egypt’s major tourist destinations – especially in the middle of the desert. But there are, in fact, currently a total of 11 man-made turquoise lagoons in various stages of development throughout the country.

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Eat, Play, Stay

this page: CITYSTARS SHARM EL SHEIKH. next page: THE WORLD’S LARGEST MAN-MADE LAGOON, CITYSTARS SHARM EL SHEIKH DEVELOPMENT IN EGYPT.

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hether or not you’ve been to Egypt, it’s likely you have at least a vague idea of what to expect when you get there, from the Pyramids to the Nile, or from the bustling markets in Cairo to diving in the Red Sea. You might also imagine scorching heat and large expanses of hot, dry desert. Just thinking about it, is enough to make you yearn for a dip in cool, refreshing water.

This is where the turquoise lagoons come in. These impressive bodies of water surrounded by white sand beaches are created by multinational water innovation company Crystal Lagoons, and can be made using any type of water (fresh, salt, or brackish) at very low construction and maintenance costs, bringing the idyllic lifestyle of the beach anywhere in the world.

The company’s sustainable technology, which is patented in 190 countries, is an ideal match for Egypt’s desert landscape, with the ability to transform previously unusable water into the ‘world’s top amenity’, creating prime real estate opportunities from previously undeveloped land.

EXPANSION IN AFRICA Crystal Lagoons has recently entered the South African market, with an office based in the mother city, Cape Town. Alastair Sinclair, the company’s Regional Director for Africa, says that the Crystal Lagoons’ patented technology is of huge benefit to a country like South Africa. “The technology creates opportunities for the utilisation of large tracts of undeveloped inland areas, as well

as the possibility of converting less accessible parts of our vast coastline into safe recreational areas for families to enjoy,” says Sinclair.

Crystal Lagoons are perfect for swimming, water sports and catching some sun while relaxing on pristine white sand beaches, not to mention safe and environmentally friendly. Crystal Lagoons’ sustainable technology and proven green credentials provides a low-cost, low-maintenance leisure amenity solution.

The ultrasonic filtration system use up to 50 times less energy than conventional filtration systems, requiring just half the water of a park of the same size and 30 times less fresh water than a golf course for a positive impact on running costs and dramatic reduction in consumption.

“The technology created opportunities for the utilisation of large tracts of undeveloped inland areas, as well as the possibility of converting less accessible parts of our vast coastline into safe recreational areas for families to enjoy.”

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“With 1 900 apartments and a luxury hotel, Mousa Coast is positioning itself as a secure, attractive and versatile location, and Crystal Lagoons’ expertise will add further value and a major USP for prospective investors.”

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EAT, PLAY, STAY

THIS PAGE: KAYAKING AT CITYSTARS SHARM EL SHEIKH.

The Citystars Sharm El Sheikh development in Egypt, for example, uses just two percent of the energy required by conventional swimming pool centralised filtration systems. Currently the Sharm El Sheikh Resort boasts the record for the world’s largest man-made lagoon, forming part of a new 750-hectare resort that will be made up of 30,000 residential units, hotels, golf courses, museums, restaurants, and a shopping mall.

This 12.5-hectare crystalline lagoon, currently completed, accesses salt water derived from underground aquifers productively transforming previously unusable land into a beautiful amenity for residents and visitors of the well-known Egyptian resort town of Sharm el Sheikh.

From it, you can view iconic diving destination the Red Sea, as well as mountains, desert and Tiran Island.

Another upcoming development in Egypt’s Sokhna mountain range is set to top the world record yet again (their first Guinness World Record holder being in the San Alfonso Del Mar resort in Chile) at

38 hectares. This development is Crystal Lagoons’ tenth project in Egypt, and will encircle the 2.1-million-square-metre Stella Di Mare project in the Red Sea coastal resort of Ain Sokhna.

The US$400-million second phase of this upscale community is designed around a clutch of private islands surrounded by crystalline lagoons and connected by bridges. Residents will enjoy a luxury resort lifestyle, with chalets and standalone villa homes with their own private stretch of beach accessible by boat as well as car.

Another new project sees Crystal Lagoons partnering with one of Egypt’s most prominent real estate developers, Misr Italia Group, to deliver two 2.7-hectare crystal clear lagoons within its US$1-billion second home Mousa Coast community located on the Red Sea, just 90 minutes from Cairo.

“With the very latest project announced in February 2017, Crystal Lagoons will be built at the US$400 million Azha resort, also at Ain Sokhna.

Combined, the crystal-clear lagoons

will total over 16 hectares, spanning 6.4 hectares and 10.2 hectares with completion expected at the end of 2018. This will play a vital role in the appeal of Azha, a high-end waterfront luxury residential development that is being described as ‘the new capital of Egypt’, on the increasingly popular western Red Sea coast.

According to Sinclair, “A Crystal Lagoon brings the idyllic lifestyle of the beach to anywhere in the world, and we look forward to adding this amenity to South African leisure resorts.”

By Alan Rorke

IMAGES SUPPLIED BY CRYSTAL LAGOONS.

“A CRYSTAL LAGOON BRINGS THE IDYLLIC LIFESTYLE OF THE BEACH TO ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD, AND WE LOOK FORWARD TO ADDING THIS AMENITY TO SOUTH AFRICAN LEISURE RESORTS.”

CRYSTAL LAGOONS WORLDWIDE Globally, there are 600 projects in various stages of development and negotiation in 60 countries.

And, locally, South Africa is set to see the next Crystal Lagoon on African soil, with advanced negotiations already underway.

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Island vibes Blue Zebra Lodge is an exclusive hideaway on an island in southern Malawi. This is the place to head for romance, relaxation and the chance to experience a magical setting that’s been unchanged for centuries.

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EAT, STAY, LOVE

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ithin minutes of arriving at Blue Zebra Lodge on the tiny little island of Nankoma, we were in the pool with a cold beer looking out across the vast expanse of Lake Malawi, the third largest and second deepest lake on the continent. So beautiful the view, so warm the vibe, so chilled the beer, it was only after about an hour that it occurred to me that you don’t get blue zebras. Excuse me?

It turns out the blue zebra is a kind of cichlid, that’s a fish, endemic to Lake Malawi and one of the reasons this lake is a UNESCO world heritage site. Named after these beautiful brightly-coloured fish, Blue Zebra Lodge is a fabulous place to explore the delights of the southern part of Lake Malawi.

This soul spot is set on the only inhabited island in the Marelli Island Archipelago at the southern end of the lake. And by inhabited they mean a collection of luxury tents and chalets, a restaurant, bar and an infinity pool.

Separated from the outside world by kilometres of clear blue water, this is where you get to experience a setting unchanged for centuries. Listen to the sounds of waves breaking gently on the shores; watch fishermen paddling in their wooden dug outs; see the moon rise above the lake of stars. You can dine outdoors with lake views, hang out by the pool, go snorkelling, swimming or take a sunset cruise. The sunsets are wild here, purple and orange, the atmosphere ancient.

Since the channels around the island are way too deep for hippos and crocodiles, the activities here are mostly water based – including kayaking, diving, swimming and water skiing. Most of your days will likely be spent hanging out near the infinity pool, which has a shaded bar area and fabulous lake views.

The lovely thing about Blue Zebra Lodge is that it’s so private. The only other people you’ll bump into are other happy guests, and friendly staff that are there to make sure everything happens properly and easily.

The chalets and the luxury tents are simple and elegant, with wooden decks and mesmerising views.

You can choose from family-sized luxury tents overlooking the lake to thatched chalets set on the hillside.

There is a spacious dining room where you can either eat indoors or outside. And best of all, is the little massage therapy centre where you can lie back and let healing hands work their magic.

It’s easy to stroll around the island in a morning since it’s only a few kilometres around. Follow the footpath through shaded groves, past ancient baobabs and fig trees and along the edge of the lake. The atmosphere is calm and soothing, and you can also climb to a look-out point with incredible lake views.

WHAT TO DO AROUND BLUE ZEBRA LODGE Take a sunset cruise out on the water, drink in hand, and watch the sunsets that make Lake Malawi so famous.

This is a fantastic way to see the other islands in the archipelago, watch the fisherman in their dugouts and enjoy the views as the sun slips quietly behind the low lying Nkhotakota hills in the distance.

Get paddling. Kayaking is a really fun way to get out and explore the coves and coastal wildlife up close.

This eco-friendly activity allows you to quietly sneak up on birds and otters and to enjoy the natural beauty of the Marelli Island Archipelago at your own pace.

Snorkel beneath the waters. Put on that mask and those fins and swim out just a few metres – you’ll be amazed at the aquatic life you find. Enjoy the sight of the vibrantly coloured darting cichlids in their natural splendour.

Get behind a pair of binoculars.

Malawi is world renowned as a birdwatcher’s paradise – there are some 650 species – and the lake

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IT TURNS OUT THE BLUE ZEBRA IS A KIND OF CICHLID, THAT’S A FISH, ENDEMIC TO LAKE MALAWI AND ONE OF THE REASONS THIS LAKE IS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE. THE WONDER OF LAKE MALAWI The ninth-largest lake in the world and the third-largest in Africa, Lake Malawi is the jewel crown of the country’s tourism. It was ‘discovered’ by the missionary explorer Dr David Livingstone just over 150 years ago, who described it as the ‘lake of stars’. This vast body of fresh water is also called the calendar lake because it is some 365 miles from north to south, and 52 miles across, with a total of 1 500 kilometres of shoreline.

In the north the lake is really deep, plunging well below sea level. This is due to the natural faulting of the Great Rift Valley, which is the origin of the lake. The lake plays a vital role in the local economy because of its rich fish harvest.

Many fishing villages are scattered along the shores and traditional methods of catching fish are still used.

There are also long stretches of totally uninhabited golden sand lakeshore, lapped by crystal clear waters. Journeys on the lake range from the famous Ilala steam ship to sailing in oceangoing yachts. The Shire River is the only outlet for Lake Malawi and part of Liwonde National Park, a small and gorgeous park, with blue-green mountains in the background and the broad river snaking its way along the western boundary.

The best time to visit is between early May and late October when the weather is mild, there is little chance of rain and the risk of malaria is at its lowest.

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED.

will delight you. Lake Malawi has the highest concentration of African fish eagles in Africa, and you will hear their haunting cries throughout the day. Each dawn at Blue Zebra Island Lodge is filled with the chorus of birds. There are 350 species on this little island alone. This is because the island is isolated and free of monkeys (who rob birds’ nests) and is an important breeding ground for cormorants and fish eagles. Other species include kingfishers, owls, storks, hornbills, swifts and thrushes, as well as weavers and spinetails.

Dive into the deep blue waters.

Surrounded by rocks and caverns Blue Zebra Island Lodge is a diver’s dream. Depending on your experience, you can either go to one of the suitable dive sites, or explore the sites around the islands. You’ll be amazed at the life that’s under these waters – from the myriad of cichlids to catfish and even otters.

The Blue Zebra Dive Centre can cater for all levels of expertise, from experienced diver to the complete novice. Their infinity pool is a perfect place for newcomers to learn the ropes before diving into the lake. The dive

centre is fully equipped and you can also head out on the speedboat and explore the dive sites around nearby Cape Maclear. This dive excursion includes some tunnel dive sites and the world-famous Zimbabwe rock, which is rated the world’s second best freshwater dive site.

Romance the island. Blue Zebra Lodge is a fabulous honeymoon spot and a great setting for romance of every kind. Quiet, secluded and laidback, this is where you get to walk hand in hand on the beaches, go for a private sundowner cruise, enjoy a couples massage and dine in utterly gorgeous settings.

For more information about Blue Zebra Island Lodge, visit: www. bluezebra.mw. Call: 00265 (0)99 2244 244 or 00265 (0)99 225 5255 or email: bluezebra.mw@gmail. com. For an overview of places and attractions in Malawi, visit Malawian Tourism: www.malawitourism.com.

For tours and transfers and travel information on Malawi, visit: www. ulendo.net.

By Bridget Hilton-Barber

AMAZING FISH About 875 species of cichlids occur in Lake Malawi, giving it the biggest assembly of fish species of any lake on earth. The cichlids of Malawi are fish from the family Cichlidae and at least 1 650 species have been identified and classified to date, with many more still either unknown, or undiscovered. They occur in tropical waters and apart from a series of anatomical features, are characterised by the fact that they give care to their offspring by ‘mouth-brooding’, which is the act of carrying the young in the mouth until such times as they are ready to swim and fend for themselves.

Due to the fact that Lake Malawi is heavily isolated from seas, oceans and other water bodies, the lake is an outstanding example of biological evolution. Adaptive radiation and specification are particularly noteworthy in the small, brightly coloured rocky-shore tilapiine cichlids (rockfish), known locally as Mbuna. Lake Malawi has a rocky habitat, with some shores separated from others by outcrops that are too long for the rockfish to cross. Over time they have evolved into new species in their own isolated places.

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Tswalu AN EXCLUSIVE WILDLIFE EXPERIENCE

“WE HAVE THREE MAIN GOALS: TO RESTORE THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT, TO RE-ESTABLISH AND PROTECT BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY, AND TO MAINTAIN THE NATURAL ECOLOGICAL PROCESSES CHARACTERISTIC OF THE KALAHARI”

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LEFT top to bottom: FIRE BOMA; LODGE; LUXURY BATHROOM; NATURAL LOUNGE DÉCOR; SLEEP-OUT DECK

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IMAGES: SUPPLIED.

ith an intense focus on conservation at its core, Tswalu Kalahari has pioneered a major restoration project that aims to see the Kalahari returned to the natural glory it once was – an arid savannah teeming with incredible wildlife.

Itineraries are tailored to the guests’ requirements and activities can include game drives, horseback and walking safaris, meerkat encounters, archaeological explorations, stargazing and spa treatments.

At the centre of it all is one of the most exceptional lodge experiences South Africa has to offer, an exclusive getaway with no more than 30 guests per night. Two camps and an additional sleep-out deck are spread out across Tswalu’s desert land, sleeping both families, groups of friends or couples in secluded suites.

The Malori sleep-out deck is an unparalleled experience that allows With the swirling red guests the chance to sleep sands of the DESERT under the bright Kalahari stars, with all the creature ON its doorstep, comforts you could need. A Tswalu Kalahari is a raised platform is disguised wildlife experience within the landscape, and unlike any other… guests will feel the thrill of the bush around them with its open-air structure.

PLENTIFUL SIGHTINGS The biodiversity of Tswalu’s surrounds is immense. From the rolling red dunes down to the southern Kalahari’s Korannaberg Mountains, guests can hope to spot some of southern Africa’s rare mammals and birds. Insect life too is prolific, with more species of butterfly to be found here than in the entire British Isles.

Because you will be one of only a handful of guests visiting Tswalu Kalahari at one time, safari experiences will be much more in-depth. The sheer scale of Tswalu, spanning over 1 000 square kilometres, combined with the diversity of game viewings, ensures that you will rarely see another vehicle, with no need to wait your turn for a sighting or restrict your time with any wildlife.

While familiar wildlife is definitely on the agenda, one of the most exciting aspects of Tswalu is the variety of animals you might spot.

Endangered roan and sable antelope roam

here, as does the Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra and a regal group of cheetahs.

Director of Conservation, Tswalu Kalahari, Gus van Dyk says, “We have three main goals: to restore the natural environment, to reestablish and protect biological diversity, and to maintain the natural ecological processes characteristic of the Kalahari.”

For the Tswalu conservation team, this entails the management of the entire ecological system, including the vegetation and available water resources, in order to maximise the diversity of natural life found in the region and to restore vital processes that have disappeared in other parts of the Kalahari.

DECADENT DINING What would a long day out animal spotting be without a heartily prepared meal alongside an open fire? Not much, we say! Tswalu’s Executive Chef, Mandi Hough, perfectly matches menus with a relaxed informal mood, using local ingredients and adding an elegant twist to South African traditions as she experiments with new flavours. But if you’d rather have the bestgrilled cheese sandwich, simply ask.

Paired with meals is an exceptional wine list, offering a choice of some of the best wines South Africa has on offer. The wine list itself received a Platinum award from the Diners Club Wine List Awards for the imagination of the selection.

WELLNESS HAVEN The serene spa at Tswalu Kalahari is constructed from natural materials. Reed ceilings, dry stone walls and tones of the earth all lend themselves to a cool and calm atmosphere ideal for a relaxing spa treatment.

After indulging in a signature treatment inspired by the Kalahari, guests can relax in a secret, indigenous garden with a labyrinth, an outdoor patio, cool treatment tsalas and a yoga pavilion. Private yoga classes, surrounded by birdsong and natural landscapes offer an ideal way to search for inner peace.

And if you need to absolutely work up a sweat, there’s a glass-fronted gym that takes advantage of the outdoor view while you work out. For more information and bookings, visit: www.tswalu.com.

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Mountaintop magic High up in the Soutpansberg mountains, South Africa’s northern most range, lies a remarkable eco-lodge offering wildlife, adventure, romance and one of the most gorgeous bathrooms in the country.

Welcome to Leshiba Wilderness.

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fell in love with a Venda prince in the a generous lounge, dining room and Bushman and other African cultures wild reaches of the Soutpansberg chill-out area with a fireplace and big used, we talked about the trees, mountains. He was tall, bronzed, cushions; books to browse, and objects the birds and the daily habits of the muscled. His hands were cupped to consider. The décor is Afro-chic, wildebeest and zebra.

Apart from the Venda Village together invitingly, and he wore nothing using local artworks, fabrics and crafts.

Outside is a courtyard with a pool lodge, there is other accommodation but a loin cloth. Out of his ear came a shower attachment. Sigh. My prince deck and more gorgeous mountain at Leshiba Wilderness. Also with views. You can eat indoors or out, incredible mountain views, are the was a shower sculpture.

I showered happily alongside hang out, have another shower with two luxury suites – called Mwedzi and Duvha – that are perfect for a romantic him and gazed out across amazing the prince…

Seriously though, if you can tear getaway, and feature secluded plunge mountain views. Open on one side, this bathroom is just fabulous. The yourself away from the bathroom, pools and a patio overlooking the next day I tried the bath there – a giant there is so much to do at Leshiba plains. They’re self-catering and egg adorned by sculpted maidens with Wilderness. The reserve is a mix of fully equipped with kitchen stuff. Or the same amazing mountain views to indigenous forests and open mountain Leshiba can arrange for someone to plains with game including giraffe, cook for you. admire as you have a long, lazy soak.

For the more adventurous there’s This bathroom is one of the zebra, wildebeest and rhino.

There are two valleys with wetlands, Hamasha camp, which is a wild and remote highlights of the Venda Village at Leshiba Wilderness. The Venda Village and a network of hiking trails as spot down a bumpy track. This charming is their flagship lodge and was initially well as running and mountain camp is surrounded by trees and nestled designed by acclaimed artist Noria biking trails – including a new one within a spectacular amphitheatre of high Mabasa, who was born in Limpopo designed by Devlinn Fogg of Bike cliffs and mountains, with magnificent province and whose work features in Life. This ride covers more than 10 views through Hamasha gorge. It’s a a variety of galleries and museums in kilometres, winding up mountains and good one for a group getaway, and for through grassy plains with plenty of those who love to be deep in nature. There South Africa and abroad. are great hiking M a b a s a trails in the gorges became a sculptor The vibe at the Venda Village is laidback and after a dream. friendly. Most mornings begin under a cloud of around here and a Years ago, she mist that burns off as the day goes by, revealing bench with gorge views, perfect for lived here at velvety peaks and distant hills. sundowners.

Leshiba for some Luvhondo months and, with the help of youth, turned a series of old opportunities for close encounters of is Leshiba’s group accommodation venue. It is situated close to the cliffs farm huts into this Afro-chic mountaintop the wildest kind.

For me, however, the signature with endless views and is ideal for hideaway – with views from heaven. It’s experience at Leshiba is definitely the workshops and playshops, family been a dynamic artwork since then.

Sculpted figures and animals greet guided archaeological trail. Leshiba gatherings and celebrations. It is the you as you arrive on the Hamasha has seven rock art sites where ideal place to hold small conferences plains after a steep and dramatic drive there are San paintings and Khoi and retreats and for hiking, birding from the tar roadway below. The main Khoi hand and foot paintings, and and nature groups to get together. lodge area is guarded by a sculpture three sites where there is evidence of Sam the chief, and his cow which of habitation. The paintings are OUT AND ABOUT AT LESHIBA 2 000 WILDERNESS appears very real in the moonlight. between 200 and Many guests have said goodnight years old. This archaeological trail  Sundowner safari to Sam after a glass of wine or two. is a delightfully scenic walk into the End your afternoon game drive with The rooms are set in a courtyard mountains and a fascinating journey sundowners on Hamasha plain, featuring clay pots and sculptures of into the past, to the time when these where the views fade into the rest mythological creatures – lions, bare- caves were inhabited by the Bushmen of Africa and the skies go pink and breasted maidens, giant feet; stylised and San people. orange and wild. On a game drive Our guide explained the lifestyles you get to explore parts of this benches.

The vibe at the Venda Village is of these early people and did a reserve which is home to giraffe, laidback and friendly. Most mornings demonstration of fire-making from zebra, wildebeest and leopard, as begin under a cloud of mist that burns sticks – an ancient art in an ancient well as large and small antelope and off as the day goes by, revealing place. We learned about the different a diversity of birds. velvety peaks and distant hills. There’s medicinal and useful plants that the The reserve has two valleys with

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PREVIOUS PAGE: VIEW FROM THE POOL TERRACE THIS PAGE FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: LESHIBA VENDA VILLAGE; ENTRANCE TO THE VILLAGE; BREAKFAST ON THE TERRACE

PROTECTING THE SOUTPANSBERG The Soutpansberg means mountain of salt or ‘tha vhani ya muno’ in Venda and takes its name from the ancient salt pans that lie to the north. The mountains rise in the arid west near the bushveld town of Alldays; and head east for some 120 kilometress in a series of dramatic peaks and gorges toward subtropical Thohoyandou.

The Soutpansberg Conservancy is 90 000 hectares in size. It was formed specifically to protect this unique mountain range, and includes a mix of provincial, municipal, private parks and wilderness areas that go from arid bushveld in the west to thick indigenous montane forests in the east. The habitats include arid sweet bushveld, mixed bushveld, sourish mixed and sour bushveld. The higher slopes of the mountain are often under mist and cloud. The highest point, Lajuma is 1 747m.

The Soutpansberg mountains are home to nearly 600 tree species including yellowwood trees, giant stinkwoods, forest fever trees, huge cabbage trees, proteas, and ancient tree ferns. In the north there are forests of baobabs and in the heights, interesting examples of endemic fynbos. The conservancy is part of the Soutpansberg Limpopo Birding Route, a prime birding spot, and is home to many eagles, owls, falcons and other predatory species, as well as forest species like the red-throated twinspot, Knysna touraco and the Narina Trogon.

The Soutpansberg Conservancy also has many fascinating rock art shelters.

The area was originally inhabited by the Khoi and San people. The Soutpansberg Conservancy is also part of the broader Vhembe Biosphere Reserve, which was designated as a biosphere reserve

by UNESCO in 2009 – and includes significant places such as the Blouberg Range, the Kruger National Park, the Makgabeng Plateau, the Makuleke Wetlands and the Mapungubwe Cultural Landscape.

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wetlands which attract the animals, and you can also do a night drive perchance to see civets, genets and African wild cats, porcupines and pangolins - possibly even the delightful aardvark. And did you know that the Soutpansberg is the only place in South Africa where you can find all five primates? They are the Lesser and thick-tailed Bushbaby, Samango and Vervet monkeys and Chacma Baboons.  Walk, hike, bike or run Leshiba has an extensive network of marked trails that take you through a diverse array of landscapes and ecosystems. You can hike, bike or run along spectacular paths through forests, across plains and down breathtaking gorges with sparkling pools, from valleys to mountain tops. Leshiba has a brand new 10-kilometre single track that winds through some of the most beautiful terrain.

Stop and stare at the view from high up and watch around the corners for herds of giraffe and wildebeest. There are 12 well-

marked hiking trails varying in time from 90 minutes to to seven hours.

See baobabs, sparkling rock pools for a swim, deep gorges framed by high cliffs, spectacular views from on high.  Guided nature walks A guided walk is where you get to experience the bush in a completely new way. Learn about the plants and trees, the birds and wildlife.

These guided walks are a perfect introduction to gaining confidence in the wild and for learning about the African bush and all she has to offer.

You can find out about the trees and plants, birds and animals. You can also do it on horseback – Leshiba has a family herd of Nooitgedacht ponies. Bred for rough mountainous terrain, these horses roam freely throughout the day and night, living as a wild herd.  Enjoy a night sky safari One of the loveliest ways to spend an evening or a special occasion here is to have a stargazing evening.

Basically you sit outside alongside

the fire under clear, unpolluted skies and get a lesson in astronomy from local astronomer Kos Coronaois and his impressive telescope. Go on a journey through the solar system and view some of the planets, or wanderers as the ancient Greeks called them, before moving to some of the deep sky objects in our galaxy, the Milky Way. Discover what some of the various shapes of the constellations mean to the tribes of southern Africa and Europeans, as you delve into South African star lore and western mythology. Meet the Southern Cross; Mensa, the Table in reference to Table Mountain, the only constellation in the sky named after a feature on Earth; Omega Centauri and 47 Tucanae, the two brightest and biggest of the globular clusters and the Large and Small Magellanic Clouds, two of our neighbouring galaxies 180 000 light years away, discovered in 1520 by the Portuguese explorer, Magellan.  Pamper session Take a deep breath, close your eyes and gently relax. Leshiba

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PREVIOUS PAGE: SAM, THE CHIEF WHO GUARDS THE VILLAGE THIS PAGE FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: SYMBOLIC SAN FIGURES ON WINDOWS; BENCH DESIGNED

BY NORIA MABASA; SCULPTURES OF MYTHOLOGICAL FIGURES; PRINCE SHOWER; FOOT DETAIL IN COURTYARD

offers an indulgent range of therapies designed to relax the body, soothe the spirit, improve muscle tone and evoke a feeling of wellbeing. Try the Leshiba Full Body Massage, the Bush Back Massage, the Zwonake Full Body & Indian Head Massage and more.

WORDS: BRIDGET HILTON-BARBER. IMAGES SUPPLIED BY LESHIBA WILDERNESS.

For more information, visit www.leshiba. co.za or call +27 (0)11 483 1841 or +27 (0)82 881 1237. For more information about tourist attractions in the area, check out Limpopo Tourism’s website: www. golimpopo.com.

DID YOU KNOW? Vhembe district is famed for its thousands of baobab trees, source of much folklore and tourism icons of Limpopo province. Adansonia digitata, as the baobab is scientifically named, has one of the longest lifespans of all African trees. Some baobabs in Limpopo province are already over 3 000 years old. On average, baobab trees found in Vhembe are between 300 and 500 years old.

VENDA ARTISTS In 2003, Noria Mabasa, who designed the original Venda Village, was awarded the prestigious national award of ‘Silver Level of the Order of the Baobab’ for her ‘exceptional achievements in unique forms of fine arts under trying circumstances’ during the apartheid era. She is one of many powerful and acclaimed Venda and Xitsonga artists from the area.

Supporting the arts has always been one of the cornerstones of Leshiba Wilderness philosophy – and the lodge showcases local artists like Thomas Kubayi, Owen Ndou, Paul Thavanha and David Murathi.

The artists typically work in wood or clay and derive their inspiration from mythology. Ancestral narratives, visions and dreams may be manifested in carvings, breathing new life and meaning into raw wood.

Some of these artists have achieved international acclaim and have been commissioned to create specific works for local and international galleries and collections.

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Living the royal life

HENRY DAVID THOREAU SAID “HEAVEN IS UNDER OUR FEET AS WELL AS OVER OUR HEADS” AND THESE WORDS ECHOED IN MY MIND WITH EVERY STEP I TOOK IN THE GROUNDS OF THE ROYAL LIVINGSTONE HOTEL

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THIS PAGE FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: VIEW FROM THE SUNDECK; A ZAMBEZI SUNSET; VIEW FROM HELICOPTER; THE LIVINGSTONE EXPRESS

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would award the hotel six stars for location alone. It is situated in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, which is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The banks of the Zambezi River are mere steps away and the Victoria Falls can be accessed via a short walk from the hotel. The permanent cloud of spray from the falls is clearly visible across the water. This is paradise, African style.

The Royal Livingstone Hotel has merged old colonial opulence with warm African smiles and by allowing the two diverse cultures to collide, it has created an unrivalled experience. Your day begins with smoked salmon and champagne, a friendly good morning from your personal butler and a cheerful hello from Edward in his colourful African kilt, reminding you that he can arrange anything your heart desires.

The central hub is flanked by 173 rooms and is accessed by meandering walkways through trees and manicured gardens on one side and the natural bush on the other. The dining room offers both indoor and outdoor seating and looks out over lush lawns, the swimming pool and the river. The Travellers Bar is open 24 hours a day and the resident pianist really knows his way around the ivories.

The bar flows into a lounge and covered verandah and the décor here is old-world charm and the colonial theme is fitting for the decadent high tea that is served every afternoon. Battered trunks, hat stands and record players, and a ceiling fan that creaked and groaned barely disturbed the air. An intriguing inscription above a mirror, attributed to Dr Livingstone, reads “Commend me to the merry midnight frogs”.

A gym, curio shop and spa are available on site and massage treatments can be enjoyed outside alongside the river.

Two large sundecks have been built right on the river’s edge.

Comfortable chairs and loungers dot the upper tier and a wet bar is conveniently positioned on one side. Lunch can be taken here under the umbrellas or trees and it is an idyllic spot for sundowners. I spent many hours admiring the view on this deck, but my highlight was the thunderstorm.

WHEN NATURE SHOWS OFF The clouds had been building up all afternoon and I was desperate for some relief from the oppressive humidity. The first rumble of thunder was just a whisper of what was to come. A few slow rain drops fell lazily from the sky and then the storm rolled closer. The sky went dark and the lightening danced across the sky.

The drops became a sheet of water soaking me in seconds and I stood there captivated by the noise, the drama in the sky and the welcome, cool rain running down my face. As the clouds moved on taking the noise and light with them, the torrent became a gentle drizzle and I felt an affinity with the earth, grateful for the gift of rain. I had just witnessed one of nature’s many miracles.

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FIVE FAST FACTS

1. In full flow, the Victoria Falls is nearly two kilometres wide, the largest in the world.

2. The spray from the falls can be seen for miles as 540 cubic metres of water per minute plummet over the edge for 100 metres before crashing into the gorge below.

3. The local people call the falls “Mosi-oa-Tunya”, perfectly translated as “The Smoke that Thunders”.

4. The Zambezi River is the fourth largest river in Africa, travelling some 2 700 kilometres from its source as a small spring in the Mwinilunga District in northwestern Zambia to the Mozambique coast, where it meets the sea.

5. The Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. It is situated on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe and can be experienced from both countries.

HOW DO YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH A RIVER? It started when I first grasped the magnitude of the Zambezi, as my helicopter flew in to Livingstone and I glimpsed it from the air. I watched it daily as I walked around the hotel and made my way to the Victoria Falls. I heard it and breathed it in from the deck of a cruise boat before it finally engaged all of me when I swam in the Devil’s Pool.

The initial attraction was instant. That little involuntary gasp and the heightened senses and the slight flush of excitement, as my entire being acknowledged a connection with something of great beauty.

The seduction was a slower process. I was enchanted by changing moods, bewitched by dynamic vitality and compelled to total surrender, while sitting in the chair of the devil himself. I fell in love with a river in Zambia.

The flight of angels Flying over the Victoria Falls is best described by Sir David Livingstone, who said “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. The loud tuk tuk tuk of the rotors was instantly forgotten as the helicopter rose and the Zambezi River stretched out before my eyes. Dusty yellows and browns interspersed by the greens of the trees merged into the greys and blues of the water, the sky and the clouds.

The route followed the kinks and the bend of the river and I spotted hippos, elephants and monkeys as fleeting dots on the landscape. The Victoria Falls came into view and I was mesmerised. The “flight of angels” is a helicopter trip like no other and the best way to appreciate the magnificence of the Zambezi and the raw power of the waterfall.

THIS PAGE FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: SWIMMING IN THE DEVIL'S POOL; A STORM IS BREWING; ZEBRAS GRAZING OUTSIDE ROOMS

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ADVENTURE & scenic this page: riverboat on the zambezi

A walk to the falls The energy-sapping heat of midday made walking a chore, but the promise of shade in the rain forest and the allure of the sights ahead kept me putting one sweaty foot in front of the other. I was desperate to reach the walkway, where the spray drenches curious eyes and the thundering water drowns out all conversation.

This was not to be and I had my first glimpse of the falls from an exposed bridge in the blazing sun. Not one drop fell over the blackened cliff, where layers of rock lie patterned, eroded and shaped by the water that pounds it during the winter months. I saw the gnarly roots of trees curling and stretching down the rock face; horizontal stripes of colour where the rock revealed the secrets of time, and vertical lines that alluded to the water’s paths of least resistance.

On the Zimbabwean side the water smoked and crashed. All thoughts of heat and discomfort were forgotten, as my gaze was drawn back again and again to the neverending flow that succumbed to the force of gravity.

The following morning I returned at first light and walked all three paths within the Victoria Falls Reserve, where statues and monuments told me stories. Noises in the bush startled me, but the isolation made it possible to hear the birds call and the crunch of crispy leaves rustling on the forest floor. I watched as the sun rose, illuminating the clouds and giving birth to a another new rainbow over the water.

Floating into the sunset The Zambezi river cruise aboard “The African Queen” provided an intimate look at the complexities of the river and served to remind me that we were not alone.

Snacking on tapas washed down by more pinks gins, I watched a herd of elephant come down to the river’s edge to drink, wash and play. The eyes and ears of submerged hippos surfaced from time to time, like underwater spies, while crocodiles played dead as we floated past.

Storm clouds gathered and their

reflections danced on the water. The horizon swallowed the sun and lit up the clouds in pinks and purples, while the river’s secrets remained hidden in the inky depths.

Livingstone Island and the Devil’s Pool The river threw cool droplets on my skin as the boat sped from the hotel to Livingstone Island. My guides led me along a sandy path to the immense black rocks, where a small monument to Livingstone provided a historical context to the view of the Victoria Falls.

The sight of the gorge below left me breathless. I made the short walk to the tree, where I was told to strip down to my bathing costume and start the final approach to the Devil’s Pool on the very edge of the Victoria Falls.

As I took the first tentative step into the Zambezi, I did a sneaky check for crocs and hippos before swimming across the river to the next rocky outcrop with the rest of the group. All the while, I kept watchful eye on the safety ropes in case I got caught in the current. Carefully stepping on the slippery rocks and perched, watching in awe as the guide leapt into the air and back-flipped into the pool, landing no more the three meters from the edge.

I slowly slipped into the water and swam desperately afraid, to the outstretched hands of the guide.

Seated on the rock, I was finally able to relax and take in my surroundings.

Fish nibbled at my feet to the sound of river tumbling into the gorge below. All too soon I had to make way for the next person and swam away from the edge, easing myself into a cleft of rock known as the Devil’s Chair.

The water bubbled at my sides and from behind me the river cascaded over my head. I leaned back and became part of the water that flowed over, under and all around me. It was the most exhilarating experience of my life.

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RIGHT: MAKING A SPLASH

A ZEBRA IN MY PATH AND A GIRAFFE AT MY DOOR The animals are habituated within close proximity of the people and on arrival, guests are warned not to approach, interfere or interact with them at all.

Although there are no predators, they are still wild. I expected to get a glimpse of zebras, antelope and monkeys, but I never dreamed I’d have close-up encounters of the bizarre kind.

Zebras grazed next to the swimming pool most mornings and on my early walks I’d observe a few monkeys playing a game of catch, swinging wildly on the hammock where I loved to laze and stare at the river. Zebras are quite large when standing only a few feet away from you and I almost missed breakfast one morning when three of them refused to move from my path. They just stood there, intimidating but non-threatening. A little camera shy, they only moved just before I could snap a photo.

Trees dot the lawns on the side of the rooms and the path skirts the natural bush on the other side. On the final night of my stay, I noticed something unusal about the pathway. Closer inspection revealed a huge male giraffe right where I needed to walk, so I veered off towards my room only to see three more giraffes blocking access to my door. Petrified, delighted and quite overwhelmed, I sat down and enjoyed the show as they ate leaves, shuffled about and took their time before moving off.

DINING BY DESIGN The hotel has various outdoor venues where guests can arrange anything from a picnic near the river to a five-course meal under the monkey tree. A beautiful table was set under the tree, softly lit by candles and a candelabra suspended from the boughs. The waiters moved soundlessly across the lawn bearing

drinks and mouthwatering outdoor feast of melting steaks, spicy curries, juicy prawns, sticky ribs, chocolate mousse and crème brûlée. We were joined by zebras, who emerged out of the darkness to have a rub against our chairs.

Slow food on the Livingstone Express Steam trains always invoke thoughts of romance, adventure and the finer things in life and “The Dinner Excursion” exceeded all expectations. Soft rain created patterns on the windows and added an air of mystique to the African plains, as we slowly approached the Victoria Bridge on the Cape to Cairo line.

The light drizzle had stopped by the time we reached the bridge, where we were welcomed by locals who sang, danced and cajoled in a bid to sell their wares. The train engaged in steam mode and hissing plumes roiled skywards, as guests queued for a visit to the engine room. Whisky, wine and more pink gins were raised in a toast to a five-course epicurean adventure in the velvety intimacy of a luxury carriage.

Protecting the environment The Royal Livingstone Hotel and the Minor Hotel Group are aware of the environmental sensitivity of the area and have committed to a holistic Environment Management System. No waste generated by the hotel ends up in a dump site. Organic waste goes to the worm farm (vermiculture); compost site deals with garden offcuts, and paper, glass, metal and cans are sent to recycling companies.

Indigenous trees have been planted around the resort and alien clearing is ongoing. A herb and vegetable garden supplement the fresh seasonal produce sourced from local farmers. Water is

pumped from the Zambezi River to irrigate the grounds and an on-site water purification plant provides ice and tap water that is safe to drink.

Water and electricity consumption are monitored daily. Energy-saving bulbs are fitted in all rooms and information is provided to all guests regarding the scarcity of water and solar-powered shuttle buses are used around the resort, which has partnered with many other bodies such as the Zambian Department of Parks and Wildlife and the Heritage Commission.

By Di Brown

SURVIVAL TIPS  On arrival, visit the travel desk so you can plan your activities, there is a lot to choose from: bungee jumping from the Victoria Bridge, swimming at the bottom of the falls, whitewater rafting, game drives, micro light flights, Segway tours and jet boating are just a few of the activities on offer.  Livingstone Island and the Devil’s Pool are only offered during the dry season, late August to early January.  The heat is intense! Pack scarfs and sarongs that can be doused in water and draped over your head and shoulders when walking to the falls. This provides great sun protection and acts as a natural air conditioner.  This is a malaria zone, do take anti-malaria prophylactics.

South African Airways and British Airways have regular flights from South Africa directly to Livingstone.

Visit: royal-livingstone.anantara.com for hotel information and booking details or call +260 21 332 1122.

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images: di brown.

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CUT YOURSELF SOME SLACK Love the idea of hiking, but terrified of leaving behind those home comforts? Here’s why slackpacking may be ideal for you…

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W

ho doesn’t love the great outdoors; the rush of adrenaline after reaching the top of a mountain, the joy of skinny-dipping in a secluded mountain pool, the sheer delight at finishing a challenging trail?

The only downside? It can be pretty pesky carrying supplies, food, water and perhaps even your own firewood, particularly when you’ve set out to conquer a multi-day trail.

But just as we’ve modernised most things in our lives, so too have we done so for hiking, and we’re all the better for it! Enter slackpacking, a concept that’s emerged in recent years that allows you the enjoyment of exploring the great outdoors without the hassle of having to carry everything you may need for survival on your back.

Slackpacking is simple really: each day you’ll carry the necessities for that day including water, food, sunscreen and your camera. What you won’t need to worry about is lugging everything you’d usually carry for a multi-day hike; it’ll simply get delivered to your cabin or campsite for that evening.

While this may not seem revolutionary for some, it has made hiking a more accessible activity for those who may not be particularly fit, families that want to hike with small children, and elderly hikers whose days of ‘backpack burden’ are behind them.

While this concept is still relatively new, there are a number of slackpacking trails that are geared for the concept. While South Africa leads the pack right now, plans for luxury slackpacking trails around southern Africa are slowly developing.

TOP SLACKPACKING PICKS Ranging from rustic to luxurious, these five slackpacking hikes are all fantastic options for burgeoning hikers as well as those who just want a break from carrying a heavy pack.

The Whale Trail, South Africa In addition to being based along one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline South Africa has to offer, the Whale Trail is named accordingly for a very good reason: the possibility of spotting whales during season from July to October. This trail winds through the diverse De Hoop Nature Reserve in South Africa’s Western Cape, revealing rare fynbos and a lush unspoilt beauty. While the route is fairly strenuous, excellent facilities await at the end of each hiking day.

LEFT: SAND DUNE EXPLORATION

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LEFT: DUNES AT KANON BAY PAGE 74 & 75: MOUNTAIN VIEWS

Well-maintained huts complete with everything you’d need for a comfortable stay break up the 55-kilometre trail, while transport containers are delivered before you arrive each day.

Duration: 55 km, five nights When to go: Although the trail is open yearround, peak calving season for whales is July through August. Whales can be spotted until September or even early October.

Find out more at: www.capenature.co.za Pondo Hopper Trail on the Wild Coast, South Africa South Africa’s Wild Coast is a rugged, untouched section of land that lies just south of Durban. It’s an area that is still largely unpopulated, but reveals some of the most incredible trails for hikers as a result. The subtropical climate, secluded beaches and tumbling waterfalls are all highlights on the Pondo Hopper Trail.

Accommodation each night is provided in comfortable safari-style tents, all bedding supplied.

While South Africa After a day out on the trails, leads the pack right rejuvenate overlooking the now, plans for uninhabited views of the luxury slackpacking Wild Coast, while indulging trails around in a delectable dinner southern Africa are provided by each camp.

This trail is relatively easy, slowly developing with a few steep climbs on days three and four, but otherwise a relaxed hike that is enjoyable for all levels of fitness. There is an additional option where you can prepare your own meals too.

Duration: 45.5 km over three days; or 68.5 km over five days When to go: The temperate climate of this area makes it ideal for hikes at any time of the year. Temperatures in winter rarely drop below 10 degrees Celsius.

Find out more at: www.active-escapes.co.za Namib Desert Trail, Namibia The Namib Desert Trail allows hikers the chance to experience the alien landscape of the desert, while accommodation is provided in comfortable tented camps. While trekking through the burnt orange landscape each day is a highlight of the Namib Desert Trail, so is the sensation of sleeping among the numerous sand dunes each night. After exploring the

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landscape of some of the highest dunes in the world, enter into the Namib-Naukluft Park to experience Namibia’s wildlife offering and then move onto Swakopmund to end the trail.

Duration: Five days When to go: Summers out in the desert can be sweltering; opt for the cooler months from June to August.

Find out more at: www.siyabona.com Oystercatcher Trail, South Africa This trail is not only rich in natural scenery, but also injects a

dose of ancient history into the mix, trekking from Mossel Bay’s Cape St Blaize, along the coast to the mouth of the Gouritz River. With a local guide at hand, the Oystercatcher Trail is both informative and fun with a group of no more than 12 people.

An optional extra here is a stop at the Point of Human Origins at Pinnacle Point. This short stretch of coastline has revealed that a small population of early humans lived right here, a significant archeological find. With only your daypack as your responsibility, you’ll stop for lunch served on the beach and arrive each evening to a comfortable guesthouse. A relaxing massage can also be arranged at the end of your trail.

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Duration: Five days When to go: The Oystercatcher Trail is open all year round.

Find out more at: www.oystercatchertrail.co.za Malealea Trails, Lesotho With it’s green, rolling hills and dramatic mountain landscape, Lesotho is a paradise for those who choose to explore it on foot. Most accommodation establishments offer hikes of some kind, but if you’re looking for a slackpacking option, then Malealea Tours is for you. Offering a variety of hikes between Malealea Lodge, Ribaneng, Ketane and the

Semonkong Waterfalls, Malealea Tours will organise a set of pack horses to carry their heavier items on your hike, while you focus on the path ahead. A local guide will keep you on track; communicate with local residents on your behalf and aid in learning more about this mountain kingdom.

Duration: Two-, three-, four- or five-day options When to go: While hiking is available year-round in Lesotho, winter temperatures can result in snow so make sure to bundle up tight in the evenings.

Find out more at: www.malealeatours.com.

By Kate Els

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PHOTO ESSAY

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nine vintage biplanes and one WACO aircraft took to the SKIES in a historic flight from Cairo to Cape IN 2016, to raise awareness of the endangered African vulture for BirdLife International.

Representing countries like South Africa, France, Germany, Britain and the USA, the aircraft pursued a flight path of 13 000 kilometres over some of the most scenic landscapes, captured on camera by Beatrice De Smet.

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DAY 22–26:

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PHOTOGRAPHER: BEATRICE DE SMET.

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SOUTH AFRICA’S GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Coupled with incredible scenery and a burgeoning tourism industry, it’s no wonder that South Africa’s wine tourism is rated the best developed in the world by International Wine Review, one of the world’s most influential opinion formers on wine

S

outh Africa’s wine industry has long been lauded as a strong and developing one. The country’s estimated annual income generated by wine tourism is in excess of R5bn according to Brand South Africa, and aside from being a major contributor to employment, the industry has come together to market

South Africa as a major wine tourism destination in coming years.

With climatic conditions that mimic those similar to Europe, the Cape Winelands are by far the most successful in comparison to other wine growing regions in Africa such as those in Algeria, Morocco, Zimbabwe and Kenya.

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FAR LEFT: VINEYARD WORKERS IN THE SWARTLAND ABOVE LEFT: DRONE VIEW OF BABYLONSTOREN GARDEN ABOVE RIGHT: BABYLONSTOREN WINE CELLAR;WINE AT DELAIRE GRAFF

WHERE TO NEXT? In 2016, the South African Ministry of Tourism presented the first-ever national wine tourism strategy at The Business of Wine and Food Tourism Conference, outlining to the industry a unified strategy that will propel the sector forwards.

Minister of Tourism, Derek Hanekom said, “We support the development of a wine tourism strategy that will see the industry unite behind a common vision, brand and an aligned plan to take wine tourism forward. We look forward to working with the industry to help realise the enormous potential wine tourism has in contributing to our country’s overall tourism growth.”

Due to the significant growth in wine tourism to South Africa over the last two decades, the Ministry of Tourism in collaboration with multiple wine industry stakeholders, has grabbed the metaphorical vine and together will surge ahead with plans to link wine farms, tourism attractions and the hospitality industry. This will create a smooth experience for visitors, encouraging longer stays and increased spend in wine regions, benefitting local and national economies.

Those who have invested in the tourism offering of wine estates

are reaping the rewards, and know that the real opportunity for economic growth in the sector lies within hospitality and not in the wine itself. Destination farms such as Delaire Graff Estate, have repositioned themselves as wine, food and art experiences.

Johann Laubser, General Manager of Delaire Graff Estate said, “Delaire Graff Estate has invested millions in wine tourism in the last few years. Wine industry players underestimate the impact of wine tourism on a wine business – the opportunities and potential for growth is huge. Thanks to our wine tourism offering, we now even experience a busy winter season, while running at full capacity in high season.”

“This is the start of a new journey. The strategy is being developed as a dynamic industry framework and practical plan.

Our immediate priorities are to get buy-in from role players and to finalise the implementation plan with input from and alignment with government,” said Destinate’s Mariette du Toit-Helmbold, who was commissioned to develop an industry-led wine tourism plan, as part of the Wine Industry Strategic Exercise (WISE), an initiative that was introduced to promote a robust, adaptable and competitive industry.

VinPro, the organisation that represents South African wine

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cellars and wine grape producers, has provided funding to conclude the strategy and implementation plan and enable a number of interventions within the next 12 months.

“SA’s current wine tourism economic contribution of ±R6bn with a target of R15bn by 2025 can be a large contributor to job creation in the tourism industry – already 289 000 jobs have been added in the wine value chain to date and the new strategy will pave the way for significant growth in the wine tourism sector over the next 10 years,” adds Rico Basson, CEO of VinPro.

HOW DO WE COMPARE? “The Cape Winelands has the potential to become as significant as the Napa Valley,” said Clay Gregory, President and CEO of Visit Napa Valley. Gregory believes South Africa already has the skills and assets but currently lacks the investment. “You have the wine, the people and the natural beauty to rival any wine tourism region of the world. But South Africa first needs to spend more on marketing and getting the region top of travellers’ minds,” he said.

Market research by Destination Analysts of San Francisco,

on behalf of Visit Napa Valley, showed that 3.3 million tourists visited Napa Valley in 2014, an increase of 11% on the prior year, spending $1.63bn (R22.82bn), of which $1.2bn (R16.8bn) was spent in hotels. By contrast, Conningarth Economists estimated the entire wine tourism industry of South Africa’s Western Cape to be worth R4.8bn ($358 million) in 2013.

The size of the global wine travel market alone is estimated to be $17bn (R238bn), and the culinary travel market is estimated as $25bn (R350bn).

Through the aforementioned strategy, a global wine and food tourism campaign is being proposed, jointly funded through public and private sector contributions, and in close partnership with the South African Wine Routes Forum to identify and map the wine tourism levers within each wine region, including the Northern Cape and the Garden Route.

Extending further than just Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, the South African wine tourism experience is spreading across the country, with wineries being established in other provinces including KwaZulu-Natal too, and that’s only the beginning…

SA’s REMARKABLE WINE FARMS

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ABOVE: WATERKLOOF ESTATE

IMAGES: SUPPLIED.

While it is extremely difficult to sum up the best of the best when it comes to South Africa’s wine fraternity (there are just so many), this selection of wine farms has earned their bragging rights when it comes to their contribution to the local industry, as well as adding their own unique experience to the list of things to do in South Africa: 1. Groot Constantia Groot Constantia is one of a handful of South African wineries that was founded right at the start of the country’s 300-year-old winemaking story, in 1685. Guests to Groot Constantia can enjoy a wine tasting, cellar tours and even a chocolate and wine pairing for something a little different. In 2016, Groot Constantia’s 2013 Chardonnay was judged as the best in the world at the stellar Chardonnay du Monde, coming out tops in a pool of over 800 wines of the same varietal.

Information: Open daily for tastings from 09h00 to 18h00, with cellar tours departing each hour.

Visit: www.grootconstantia.co.za or call +27 (0)21 794 5128.

2. Nederburg

The legacy of Nederburg is one many South Africans are aware of, with wine lists across the country including at least one bottle of this estate’s varied and impressive wine offering.

Situated just outside Cape Town in Paarl, Nederburg is an ideal day trip when you include visits to some surrounding farms. Take in the incredible views of the Cape Winelands at their restaurant, The Red Table; learn more about South Africa’s wine history at The Cellar Museum and, of course, sample their incredible wines.

Information: Open on weekdays from 09h00 to 17h00 and on weekends from 10h00 to 16h00.

Visit: www.nederburg.co.za or call +27 (0)21 862 3104.

3. Waterkloof Wines After searching for the ideal slice of land in the Cape Winelands for a decade, Waterkloof’s Paul Boutinot selected where the winery now calls home, overlooking False Bay. This young cellar has quickly become known for its fine wines and gourmet cuisine in just over 20 years, but its ecological legacy is also garnering attention in the international wine scene. Waterkloof Restaurant is currently one of the country’s

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best, with its young chef Gregory Czarnecki named as the Eat Out S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Chef of the Year 2016.

Information: The Tasting Lounge at Waterkloof is open on Monday to Saturday from 10h00 to 17h00 and on Sundays from 11h00 to 17h00.

Visit: www.waterkloofwines.co.za or call +27 (0)21 858 1292.

4. Vergenoegd Wine Estate While Vergenoegd Wine Estate has a history dating back to 1696, it was after a set of upgrades and improvements under new ownership in 2015 that the farm became an online sensation because of its ducks. Opting to enlist the help of over 1 000 Indian runner ducks to fight pests, rather than chemical pesticides, Vergenoegd is known for its daily duck parade, where guests can get caught up among the hundreds of ducks on their way to work in the vineyards.

Information: Open on Mondays to Saturdays from 09h00 to 17h00 for wine tastings, and from 10h00 to 16h00 on Sundays.

Visit: www.vergenoegd.co.za or call +27 (0)21 843 3248.

5. Babylonstoren It’s hard to put into words what to expect when you first arrive at Babylonstoren. The eight acres of garden are an almost mythical wonderland alive with magic and charm. Fruit trees, a vegetable garden bursting with colour, chickens about their business, and an incredible greenhouse are just a few of

the things to take in here. In 2016, Babylonstoren bagged five gold awards in the Vitis Vinifera Awards for its wines. In addition to great varietals, the hotel at Babylonstoren was selected as one of the 20 best hotels in the world by Condé Nast Traveller UK Gold List.

Information: Open daily from 09h00 to 17h00, wander the gardens or pop in for a tasting. A small fee is charged at the gate for the Babylonstoren Trust.

Visit: www.babylonstoren.com or call +27 (0)21 863 3852.

6. Abingdon Wine Estate As one of the first (and only) wine estates in KwaZulu-Natal, Abingdon is a little further afield than the Cape Winelands, but as a wine producer is ranking highly nonetheless. With the first grapes planted in 2004, the farm is young, but produces grapes across a range of varietals including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, viognier, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and nebbiolo. Abingdon’s maiden vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2007, was the first ever certified estate wine made in KwaZulu-Natal, and that’s reason enough to make a stop if you’re ever in the area!

Information: Open on Fridays and Saturdays for tastings and lunch. Be sure to call ahead for a table if you’re keen to try their menu, otherwise a cheese and charcuterie platter at the tasting bar goes down a treat.

Visit: www.abingdonestate.co.za or call +27 (0)33 234 4335.

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7. Creation Wines As you wind your way up the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (meaning Heaven and Earth) that leads to the gates of Creation Wines, you will notice the exceptional terroir reflected in the hard-hitting chardonnays and pinot noirs from this region. Creation Wines has pioneered a tasting experience unlike any other, offering pairing menus with a twist. When Great Wine Capitals (GWC) recently announced the South African winners of its Best of Wine Tourism Awards for 2017, Creation Wines was once again honoured with the ‘Innovative Wine Tourism Experiences’ award, the third time in five years.

Information: Open daily for wine tastings from 10h00 to 17h00 and bookings are essential.

Visit: www.creationwines.com or call +27 (0)28 212 1107.

8. Spier As one of the most prominent wine estates in Stellenbosch, Spier has long been a favourite of visitors to the Cape Winelands and it’s not difficult to understand why. With multiple eateries, activities for families or couples, acclaimed art and a spa, guests appreciate the essence of this experience. At the Veritas Awards 2016, Spier was awarded two double gold medals for both its 21 Gables 2014 Chenin Blanc and the 21 Gables 2014 Pinotage.

Information: Open for tastings on Mondays to Wednesdays from 09h00 to 17h00, on Thursdays to Saturdays from

09h00 to 18h00 and on Sundays from 11h00 to 18h00.

Visit www.spier.co.za or call +27 (0)21 809 1147.

9. Tokara Other than its award-winning wines, Tokara is a destination for both olive oil and brandy. This incredible wine estate is perched atop a crest of the Helshoogte Pass, giving it enviable, sweeping views over Stellenbosch. The full list of Tokara’s awards is simply too long to cite; just know that you’re likely to experience incredible wine when visiting the estate.

Information: Open daily for tastings from 09h00 to 17h00 on weekdays and 10h00 to 15h00 on weekends.

Visit: www.tokara.co.za or call +27 (0)21 808 5900.

10. Delaire Graff When it comes to combining the experience of food, wine and art, Delaire Graff has ensured they are at the top of their game. Their collection of fine art gives the estate a gallery feel, while the gourmet dining experience is once in a lifetime. The combination of ocean breeze and mountain is a very unique terroir, creating award-winning Delaire Graff wines. A cooling Atlantic sea breeze washes over Delaire Graff’s steeply sloping vineyards giving a rich intensity of fruit.

Information: Open daily from 10h00, but booking is essential.

Visit www.delaire.co.za or call +27 (0)21 885 8160.

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BUSINESS TOURISM & INVESTMENT

Growing the tourism pie NEWLY APPOINTED TOURISM SOUTH AFRICA CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, SISA NTSHONA BELIEVES THAT TRANSFORMATION AND EDUCATION WITHIN THE TOURISM INDUSTRY ARE KEY TO ECONOMIC BOOST

A

n accountant by training, Sisa Ntshona, holds a string of commerce qualifications including a Master of Business Administration (MBA) from the University of Pretoria and an International Executive Programme (IEP) from INSEAD Business School in France. Ntshona believes he is able to infuse commercial objectives in his new position as the Chief Executive Officer of South African Tourism, driven by the focus to make an impact.

With more than 15 years experience in leadership roles in a range of sectors, both within and outside the tourism sector, the CEO recalls having held several strategic leadership positions across different jurisdictions in Africa and Middle East in blue chip corporations and multinationals for over 20 years.

“I have managed and run business operations successfully across the African continent and in the Middle East. I have also served on a number of boards including as a non-executive board member for the Enterprise Development Council of South Africa,” he says.

Having also attained an MBA from the Gordon Institute of Business Science, as part of his vast experience Ntshona has also been an investment banker for Absa Bank. “I initially joined Barclays Africa as an investment banker, and later moved to

CEO: SA TOURISM, SISA NTSHONA

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become the Head of its SME Banking Division, a role I held until joining SA Tourism in October 2016.”

“I have also has worked in the aviation industry for South African Airways, Financial Services Money Transfer, Western Union and Manufacturing, Parmalat Food Industries,” he adds.

In his current position, Ntshona says his responsibility is to steer the mandate and all operations of the national Destination Marketing Organisation’s head office and its country offices.

“With my ability to harness and analyse data and market intelligence towards strategy and action plans, including my people management skills, I want to grow the tourism sector,” he emphasises.

DOMESTIC TOURISM

FIRST ON THE LIST

 Township tourism According to Ntshona, townships need to become a much greater part of the tourism offering. “Transformation is not about slicing up the pie, it’s about growing the pie. Vilakazi Street in Soweto, the only street in the world to have housed two Nobel peace prize winners, Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, is a must-see tourist destination. There can’t only be one Vilakazi Street. Each province needs to have its own Vilakazi Street. For tourism to be properly prioritised by the government, it needs to be properly transformed,” says Ntshona.

Ntshona’s immediate priority is to make sure that the importance of tourism to the whole country is understood. “If I cannot get this message across, whatever else I do becomes a bit futile. So, my role must be to ensure that tourism is at the forefront of everyone’s mind – especially government itself,” he says. He also admits that the country’s visa requirements need to be reassessed, as these continue to damage the industry.  Core delivery His core delivery is to increase the contribution of tourism to the GDP. “I have been in consultations with ratings agencies. The traditional contributors to GDP, mining and manufacturing, are under pressure. Therefore, this is seen as the next space that is going to kick-start the economy. It touches on so many other sectors from financial to construction – across the board. If we light this up it will have a ripple effect. This is where my mind gets excited,” Ntshona explains.  Accountability “SA Tourism must be structured and held accountable like a business,” Ntshona says adamantly. “One of the focus areas will be data and market insights. We need to get data, analyse it and put it on a platform so that we can make informed decisions. At the moment we are very limited. We can only tell you how many people came here, where they were from and when they left. We cannot tell you what they did while they were here, or what they bought,” he says.

Ntshona also believes strongly in stimulating the domestic tourism sector. “Most tourism economies around the world have a strong foundation of domestic tourism, and foreign tourism on top of that. In our country, it’s the other way around.” He continues, “While Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban operate as tourist hubs, it is important to remember other areas as well.”

“If South Africans begin to embrace a travelling culture, this could bring prosperity to outlying areas,” emphasises Ntshona.

“Tourism is a contact sport. It’s personal, it’s people-friendly, people-hungry. Let’s grow this space and pull in as many people as possible,” he urges.

 Transformation SA Tourism has partnered with Southern African Tourism Services Association (SATSA) on a brand-new market access partnership to develop the small and medium-sized enterprise (SME) tourism sector, while contributing towards transformation.

“We are extremely pleased to be part of this initiative because transformation is at the centre of the work that we do here at SA Tourism. Developing and supporting SMEs is a big part of this because it is in developing SMEs that we inject new energy in our sector, introduce diversity and variety, and ultimately cater to the needs of the tourists who are looking for unique and authentic experiences,” explains Ntshona.

GEARED FOR ETHICAL CHANGE Ntshona aims to take a bold stance against tourism products based on the exploitation of wild animals. “I will work with sustainable tourism authorities to ‘eradicate’ the industry. SA

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business tourism & INVESTMENT Tourism does not promote or endorse any interaction with wild animals such as the petting of wild cats, interacting with elephants and walking with lions, cheetahs and so on,” he explains.

If South Africa wants to market itself as a destination offering ethical and responsible tourism, there cannot be any place for predator breeding, canned hunting and the use of lions and other species as ‘play things’. “The entire tourism industry is to embrace the stance of SA Tourism,” Ntshona says emphatically.

Ntshona plans to engage conservation authorities who are also concerned about cub petting and other wildlife interaction practices. “SA Tourism is in discussion with the ‘Sustainable Tourism Partnership Programme’ to see how we can work more closely with conservation authorities to eradicate such practices,’ he adds.

As head of SA Tourism, Ntshona is geared for change and ensures that marketing efforts will promote an authentic and credible tourism experience to all the country’s tourists. “This includes an authentic wildlife experience to keep it as ‘wild’ and natural as possible,” “Tourism is adds Ntshona.

economy up and running again, because we touch on so many sectors,” says Sisa.  Weighing up the challenges For Ntshona, the delicate balance that needs to be struck is the ability to weigh up the challenges and address them without killing the economy in the process. “We have left that conversation to much bigger, more important people than us – and it is being addressed at Cabinet level, but we definitely input our views and thoughts into that process in terms of getting around this,” he says.

 Limited resources “Like any business, we have limited resources and unlimited needs and wants,” Ntshona admits. “One of them is about the pocket of investment money that we have. Where do we invest?

How do we decide which countries to target? Which do you leave out? You cannot be everywhere.”

Optimal return on investment a contact when it comes to profiling South Africa sport. It’s personal, around the world again comes down to it’s people-friendly, collaboration. “If you look at the latest GROWING FOREIGN TOURISM stats, we can probably cover between 25 The plan is to grow the number of foreign people-hungry. Let’s visitors to the country by four million grow this space and and 30 countries, little over 10 percent people in the next five years. “It is a tough pull in as many people of the world’s countries. However, by partnering with, say, the Department task when considering that foreign visitors as possible.” of International Relations and Cototalled 8.9 million last year, according operation, SA Tourism immediately to data from the United Nations’ World Travel Organization (UNWTO). The year 2015 was a ‘very bad achieves points of presence in 126 countries.” It is essential to year’ for South African tourism, while numbers have recovered in find ways to collaborate and share resources in this regard.

2016. The latest data from Statistics South Africa (Stats SA) shows that the number of tourists have increased by 14% year-on-year PROFILING SOUTH AFRICA in August to 833 638. This should not be celebrated as double- It is about how South Africa positions itself. “Think about it: If you digit growth,” he reflects. start to build things not only for the locals, but also for the entire SA Tourism is essentially trying to restore tourist numbers back ecosystem and the people outside, it makes you very attractive to the previous, and Ntshona believes it is important to grow the from an FDI perspective,” Ntshona says. industry’s contribution to the economy from the current estimated Quality assurance is another factor that he believes is essential.

9.4% of GDP to the ‘late teens’.

“We are in Africa and we come with a certain perception and a “There is a lot of pressure on South Africa’s economy to certain risk premium. I believe that South Africa has a uniqueness diversify – away from its reliance on natural resources. I believe that cannot be experienced anywhere. The issue is getting ‘those that part of this diversification can come with tourism, and SA flavours’ out there. How we talk about our country becomes Tourism has a responsibility to help achieve this. Tourism is important,” Ntshona adds. definitely under pressure from an expectation point of view in “Do you finish your sentence with the view that this country is terms of how we are going to contribute towards getting this going down? SA Tourism could spend a lot of energy on profiling

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the country as one of the best in the world. I am of the view that if one of the 54 million South Africans meets a tourist here or overseas and paints our country in a negative way, it negates all of it,” he says.  Tourism education Ntshona feels that tourism is still regarded as a largely white industry, affecting white people and largely benefitting white people. “The case for tourism has not been made in this country.

Most people still perceive it as an elitist thing that is done only by wealthy (white) people.”

“South Africans need to be educated and informed about the impact of tourism on the economy and its ripple effect on other sectors – how everyone’s wellbeing and economic prosperity can be linked to tourism,” Ntshona stresses. “The government itself needs to be educated and informed about the nature and benefits for the country of tourism.”

Its attitude to tourism has been one of indifference at best, despite tourism being prioritised in the National Development Plan. As a result, the growth of tourism in South Africa is way behind the global trend.

IMAGES SUPPLIED BY SA TOURISM; PIXABAY.

 Being proactive Given South Africa’s extraordinary assets and favourable exchange rate, there is more that can be achieved. “We need to protect this industry and be proactive in terms of how we bring others in. We need to make tourism everyone’s issue,” Ntshona says, adding that he wants to see the country’s contribution double by the time his five-year contract ends.

“I have a number of ideas about how this can be done, including more effective utilisation of the country’s 120 foreign embassies for marketing purposes, more comprehensive analysis and better use of technology,” he says.  Invest in technology According to Ntshona, the country has not invested enough in technology to make sure it keeps up with all the developments that are happening. He elaborates, “The use of apps, of different platforms – technology is creeping into all these spaces yet we still have bricks and mortar and posters on buses.”

Ntshona aims to lead SA Tourism into a new era of business sustainability through increased cooperation with the tourism industry. “I will focus on the catalytic role of the organisation

to deliver growth in the number of international leisure and business tourists to our shores, as well as stimulate the potential for domestic tourists to enjoy our beautiful country,” he says.

By Bulelwa Mokori

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