DQ Magazine Issue 1B by hqmagazine

DIGITAL ISSUE 1B | 2022

SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE

Hello! And welcome to our second edition of DQ Magazine! It's wonderful to have you with us again. We're so excited to bring this new magazine to you monthly and hope you enjoy going through it as much as we enjoy putting it together. In here, you'll find content on training, health, behaviour, and much more! We're delighted to have so many contributors on board who are supplying us with this top-quality content, and we'd like to extend a huge thank you to them for their efforts. We're also featuring plenty of canine businesses and initiatives to let you know about the services and products on offer, the projects you can support and the activities available for you and your dog. Thank you to all of these businesses who are supporting us through advertising, allowing us to make this magazine free to all dog-lovers across southern Africa. We're really very grateful! Finally, thank you to our brand-new readers for making last month's first-ever issue such a great success. We were delighted with all the positive feedback we received and hope you enjoy this issue just as much as our last one. Give Fido a treat from us, and we'll see you next time! With much love,

xxx The DQ team

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Designer: Jason Crole

DIGITAL ISSUE 1B | 2022

IN THIS ISSUE 06

Canine Enrichment

Part 2

Adak

Caring for your dog’s paws

The war hero

Puppy love Why attend puppy school?

Going on ‘Sniffari’ The enormous benefits for your dog

Your best breed Do your research

When you see a dog in a public space

Body language explained

Living in fear

Arthritis It’s not just an old dog disease!

Dog dementia Canine cognitive decline

The Dachshund Haven Loving little long dogs

Tears Animal Rescue Making a difference

Part 2: The tail

Best twilight years With Animal Health and Hydro

…Have a little self-control!

Paw pedicure

The Tears Online Shop Making a big impact on animal welfare

AskDQ?

Products we love

Life of George

Helping the fearful dog

Dachshunds The Badger Dog

Freshen up

Live life unleashed

The benefits of adding extras into your dog’s diet

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“Seems to be turning Harley back into a puppy”

k could no longer jump up on the couch and s now forever on the couch when I turn my d.” Lisa Rawlings

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Harley

Great Dane “I added Walkease to his diet and he is bouncing! He is almost eight, which is fairly senior for a Great Dane, but runs on the beach and climbs stairs like a youngster.” Andrew Errington

WALKEASE®is a 100% natural and biologically active form of undenatured type II collagen. The unique patented UCII®: • Provides a significantly more effective and safe treatment for dogs with stiff painful joints • Restores and maintains strong, healthy and optimally functioning joints and limbs • Significantly improves the quality of life, playfulness and overall health of your dog nBENEFITS OF UC-II®: • Is available in a convenient powder form that is easily and quickly absorbed • Is safe with no known side effects • Has no evidence of liver, kidney or blood dysfunction • Is significantly more effective in reducing symptoms of pain than the combination of Glucosamine and Chondroitin – Up to twice as good! • Demonstrated a 62% reduction in overall pain at 120 days versus 24% with Glucosamine and Chondroitin

Lady

Pitbull “It smells amazing so it probably also tastes lekker! She loves it. She loves her run everyday and doesn’t seem to get very stiff anymore.” Mirjam Elsinger

Jack

Cairn Terrier “Jack could no longer jump up on the couch and he is now forever on the couch when I turn my head.” Lisa Rawlings

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IN G R E DIE N T

D O G S AT P L AY

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

PART 2

CANINE ENRICHMENT

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his month’s enrichment idea is dedicated to those digging dogs who just can’t help themselves. For many dogs, digging is an innate behaviour. Breeds like Huskies dig in the snow to create a nice patch to sleep in, earth breeds (like terriers) are natural diggers, potentially searching out rats and other rodents, and some dogs dig just because they like it. Digging is an integral part of being a dog, and thus suppressing your dog’s need to dig is not great for his mental health.

WHY DIG? There are many reasons why a dog might dig, ranging from instinctual to practical. They may be searching for prey, making a comfortable place to sleep, escaping the property, relieving anxiety, or burying toys, bones and treats so that they won’t get ‘stolen’ by another family member (a real throwback to their wolf heritage). But, purposeful or not, one of the most common reasons dogs dig is because DQ|1B

it is highly entertaining and a great way to relieve boredom. This makes digging a very difficult behaviour to stop, particularly in those breeds that are more predisposed to the behaviour. Instead, it can be a good idea to ‘relocate’ your dog’s digging to a designated spot, like their very own digging pit.

THE DIGGING PIT A digging pit is a specified area in the garden where your dog is allowed and encouraged to dig. These pits can be temporary and movable if you use a kiddie’s pool shell or sandpit (preferably placed on cement, brick or bare soil to prevent your grass from dying) or they can be a more permanent fixture, where a small pit is dug into the flower bed and demarcated. If you (or your neighbours) have cats, we highly recommend a cover of some sort, or you may create a litter tray. If you opt for the temporary option without a cover, ensure the pit is free draining. 7

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YOU’RE NOT OFF THE HOOK! Whilst it is a relatively easy and inexpensive exercise to set up a digging pit for your dog, it will require interaction to establish the spot as a digging spot and keep your dog interested (introducing new toys and treats will help). It will also require some general maintenance by removing unwanted objects like leaves, twigs or other garden refuse and adding more sand when needed.

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Once your pit is prepared, it’s time to add the most important element, the sand. We recommend using either river sand or everyday kiddies’ sandpit sand. This should be readily available at your local hardware store, is costeffective and generally free of any debris. Remember that the sand will settle, so you will probably have to add more at a later stage. It is recommended that you add a layer of sand, water it to help the sand settle, and add more sand as needed. If you have opted for the permanent pit adding edging will help keep the sand off your lawn and in the pit.

TIME TO DIG Once your digging pit has been set up, the real fun can begin. It is important that you introduce your dog to the digging pit and encourage him to use that spot rather than his other ‘favourites’. We recommend using high-value toys or treats and putting them in the digging pit as an introduction and letting your dog find them. He may then start digging without any more prompting from you. If he doesn’t, you can start to partially bury the toys and treats (added bonus of some sensory enrichment) and gradually bury them deeper as your dog gets the hang of it. It is a good idea to store outside toys in the digging pit, as your

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dog will visit the pit regularly to find his toys, which will create a further positive association with the pit. Dogs often mimic behaviour, so another option to build your dog’s inclination to dig in this spot is to dig with him (we’re not kidding!). Playing with him in the sand of his digging pit will encourage him and keep him engaged with the game at hand. If you find your dog digging outside the pit, redirect the digging to the allotted area and praise him when he digs in his pit.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE We need to remember that dogs are very different to us and have different needs and wants. Providing environmental enrichment that allows them to exercise their natural behaviours ensures that their needs are met, and their brains and bodies are stimulated. In this way, enrichment activities such as snuffle mats (see DQ1A) and digging pits can help to improve your dog’s quality of life and happiness levels.

HERO DOG

TEXT: GEORGIA HARLEY

Adak THE WAR HERO

hen we think of a German Shepherd, we often conjure the image of a police dog, but not many know that the German Shepherd was, in fact, bred for war. The dogs were first trained by German soldiers to send messages and carry ammunition. Today German Shepherds are used for even more military tasks, including bomb detection, search and rescue and even to keep soldiers' morale up. German Shepherds are a favourite for military-type work due to their intelligence, focus, loyalty, and ability to keep calm under pressure.

ADAK Adak was an American hero. He was not an official military dog but supported the military by being a 'contracted' war dog. Adak worked both in Iran and Afghanistan doing detection work. He also served as part of the security team for the US embassy when authorities and dignitaries travelled. It is said that the whole team felt safer when Adak was around and at work. DQ|1B

HERO DOG

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HERO DOG

HIS WORK In 2008, there was a terrorist attack at a hotel located in the capital of Afghanistan, Kabul. As a result of this attack, multiple people were trapped inside the hotel with no way of getting out. A team of soldiers rescued 20 victims out of the hotel, and at the front of this team was Adak.

END OF CAREER Working in war zones takes its toll, just as it does for humans. Over his years of service, Adak's handler, Dan Hughes, became his friend, and after their time of service on the front line was complete, Dan wanted to take his fellow soldier home with him. Even though at first Hughes' wife was a little apprehensive about having a big service dog in the house, Adak ended up climbing into her heart too. He was affectionate with the Hughes' children and became a well-adjusted family dog. However, after just a year of living in the family, Dan realised that as happy as Adak was, he was missing his life of service. Due to his age, he wouldn't be able to serve any longer in the army, so Dan Hughes and his wife set up Dogs for Defense Incorporated to give Adak and dogs like him the chance to continue serving. In his Dogs for Defense Incorporated role, Adak still served people by doing security checks at concerts and venues. He did school visits to educate people about his trainability and to demonstrate that dogs are not a threat and can help people in more ways than they know. Adak loved to work and please, and as a result, he worked twelve of the thirteen years of his life. At thirteen, when it was finally Adak's time to go, Dan refused to leave his side. The two served together from beginning to end.

DID YOU KNOW? Military working dogs receive intensive training, costing between twenty and forty thousand dollars per dog. The training required for specialist explosive detection dogs can cost up to a hundred and fifty thousand dollars.

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Physiotherapy Underwater Treadmill Soft tissue techniques (myofascial release, massage, stretching) Therapeutic exercises Kinesiotaping Laser EMS/TENS, Stimpod Acupuncture Holistic consultations Food therapy Herbals & Homeopathy Tui-na Respiratory Physio Home exercise programs Dr Marisa Slabber BVSc, CVA, MSc, CVTP Kayla du Toit Veterinary Physiotherapist (SAVC)

holisticare2@gmail.com

www.holisticare.co.za

Cnr Witkoppen & The Straight Ave, Pineslopes, Fourways, Johannesburg.

D O G B E H AV I O U R

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

PUPPY LOVE WHY ATTEND PUPPY SCHOOL?

ringing a new puppy into the family is both exciting and nerve-wracking. One of the best things you can do to make the transition smoother and more straightforward for both yourself and your puppy is to find a force-free, positive reinforcement puppy socialisation class in your area and enrol yourself and your pup.

WHY PUPPY SCHOOL? Puppy school provides crucial learning, socialisation, and desensitisation opportunities for your new puppy during their ‘critical socialisation period’ (between 8 and 16 weeks of age). At this time, puppies are most open to learning and accepting new situations and experiences.

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During the critical socialisation phase, exposing your puppy to as many new things as possible in a safe and controlled environment is, therefore, crucial in growing their confidence. Experiences during this phase in your puppy’s life strongly influence their adult behaviour, so starting off on the right paw really is important. Puppy school is also helpful in creating a solid relationship between you and your new puppy. Spending time learning together is one of the best ways to develop your bond and encourage your dog to look to you for the answers if they are uncertain. On top of this, ensuring your puppy attends an appropriate puppy school will alleviate a lot of puppy ownership jitters and give you confidence in your puppy-raising journey. All in all, you’re giving your new puppy the best chance to develop into a confident, well-adjusted and wellbehaved dog.

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IT TAKES WORK When we get a puppy, we all have a picture in our mind of the type of dog we want, but we don’t always appreciate the amount of work, commitment, and consistent practice that this will take to achieve. You will never be “done” training your dog. It’s not enough to love your new puppy and hope this will help them to develop into a well-rounded canine citizen – raising a puppy takes a lot of love AND a lot of work!

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Starting your lifetime of training at an early age helps to establish a strong line of communication between you and your puppy and gives you the necessary tools to effectively teach, and train desired behaviours, many of which, such as ‘sit’, ’down’, ‘stay’ and ‘come’, are essential skills for your pup. It also teaches your puppy to trust you and look to you for guidance right from the beginning so that every new adventure becomes a training experience.

ADDED BENEFITS Many of the best puppy schools will also provide you, as the owner and handler, with invaluable resources in learning how to care for your puppy. They are often prepared to make themselves available to assist with any queries you may have about your new addition. They’ll also be able to assist with any behaviour related concerns you may have and can help you nip them in the bud before they develop into anything too serious.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE If you don’t know where to begin when it comes to finding the right school for you and your pup, there are many resources to use. We recommend asking around to see if friends or family have had any good experiences, asking your veterinarian for assistance and lastly using Google or social media to find recommendations. Remember, you are looking for force-free trainers who utilise positive reinforcement methods to set your puppy up for his best life. WHY NOT JUST PUPPY CLASSES FOR MY PUP ALONE? Controlled socialisation interactions at puppy school are crucial in helping your puppy develop and understand dog-to-dog social skills, such as reading and responding appropriately to other dogs’ body language and safely playing and interacting with other dogs. Many people underestimate the benefit of controlled social situations like this and believe that a dog park can do this for you for free. While it works for some, others never learn these key skills without specific support.

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GOING ON 'SNIFFARI' THE ENORMOUS BENEFITS FOR YOUR DOG

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ogs are driven by scent rather than language or sight. Our dogs view the world primarily through scent pictures instead of relying solely on sight, which hugely alters how they interact with their surroundings. As this is entirely the reverse of our human condition, it can be difficult for us to appreciate exactly how powerful our dog's noses are. We know that dogs' noses allow them to do some pretty powerful jobs – from being medical alert dogs to detection dogs. Dogs have been found to be able to sniff out and indicate the presence of dangers and diseases, including drugs, bombs, cancers and malaria. But many of us forget to allow our dogs to use this incredibly powerful tool of theirs, and in doing so deprive them of a full enriched experience of the world around them.

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THE NOSE A dog's nose is incredible. While we have just 6 million olfactory receptors, our dogs have around 300 million. Similarly, the part of a dog's brain responsible for processing scent information is proportionally around 40% larger than it is in humans. The shape of a dog's nose also aids with the processing of scent. As the dog exhales, the slits at the side of their noses expel air, allowing it to circulate and then draw more scent particles up towards the nostrils. This recycling of scents allows for full analysis. Basically, our dogs were born to sniff!

XXX

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SNIFFING When we limit our dogs' options for new sniffing experiences, we can limit their experience and enjoyment of life. Of course, the breed of dog is relevant in this in that some breeds, like Scent Hounds, live for the opportunity to put their nose down and have a good sniff. For other breeds, scent isn't quite so essential. However, regardless of breed, all dogs benefit from sniffing activities. THE SCIENCE Over the past few years, several studies have started to look into the effect of scent and its ability to lower cortisol levels in our dogs. Cortisol is often referred to as the 'stress hormone' as it is produced in larger quantities during stressful situations. Some cortisol is required for a healthy body, but an abnormally high level of cortisol can be created when a dog is stressed. Too much cortisol, particularly if it remains at a high level for a prolonged period, can harm the brain and the body. Activities that reduce stress, such as sniffing, could therefore be invaluable in calming our dogs. DID YOU KNOW? If you have a Sighthound or dog that prioritises using its sight, perhaps a herding dog, you can over time help to reduce their chase instinct by redirecting their focus onto exciting sniffing experiences. With their eyes down and nose engaged, these 'visually driven' dogs are less likely to be constantly searching for something to chase.

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THE 'SNIFFARI' Having a dog that wants to sniff anything and everything on a walk can be highly frustrating so spending every minute of a walk allowing your dog to sniff is unlikely to be practical. Instead, think of using the 'Sniffari' as a way to give your dog a good olfactory (smell) workout once or twice a week. By setting up a situation where we encourage our dogs to sniff new scents, follow trails we lay, or play nose games on our walks, we're really focusing on the positive benefits of sniffing for our dogs. LOCATION LOCATION When conducting your first 'Sniffari', you need to choose the right environment. Visiting a new environment will always encourage more sniffing but you don't want to be in an area where your dog's arousal levels risk going very high. For example, if your dog is an avid squirrel chaser taking them to an area populated by high numbers of squirrels is not going to be conducive to taking part in a calming sniffing activity. TIMING Heading out in the early morning when the dew is on the grass or it has recently been raining tends to lead to an excellent 'Sniffari' experience. Wet ground allows more scent particles to be collected – all ready for exploration by our dogs. SET-UP When encouraging our dogs to sniff, we don't want to keep calling them back to us as seeking constant visual contact from our dogs reduces the likelihood that they will sniff. Therefore, if you need to use your voice regularly when your dog is off-lead, then maybe make your initial 'Sniffaris' on-lead activities.

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DID YOU KNOW? Treating a dog from the floor rather than giving it directly into the mouth can lead to dogs sniffing out the reward and an overall calming effect. Many behaviourists recommend trying this for highly-strung dogs.

LENGTH Encouraging your dog to use their nose can leave them more tired than your average walk, so your 'Sniffari' doesn't need to last for hours. You might find this mental workout actually tires them out in just thirty minutes, when normally they would need a standard one hour walk. TROUBLESHOOTING If your dog shows very little interest in sniffing, it might just be that they aren't used to using their nose on walks, that their breed means they are less inclined to use their nose or that their current arousal levels don't allow them to look down at the ground. You can encourage them to put their nose on the ground in calm, quiet environments by scattering food on the floor or by placing treats in a line for them to follow a food track. It might even be that you need to start this off in your garden to begin with. Once your dog has realised that using their nose can be rewarding and fun, you can swap to new environments, make the

treat trail more complex to follow, or increase the distance between treats. Another way you can engage your dog's nose on a walk is by playing a game of hide-and-seek. As long as your dog can cope with short periods of separation from you, hiding from your dog can be a fun way to reinforce your recall and give your dog a wonderful scent hunt to find you. Dogs have a remarkable ability to discriminate between different humans' scents and have positive associations with the scents of their own humans. In the hide-and-seek game, effectively smelling you, their favoured human, will give your dog a reward response. You can make this even stronger by giving them some high value treats when they find you or perhaps engaging in a game they enjoy.

TAKE HOME Giving our dogs a more enriched life is beneficial for their welfare and mood, so surely it is time to give it a go? Let’s get sniffing! DQ|1B

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D O G AT H O M E

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

YOUR BEST BREED

DOING THE RESEARCH

Labradors are commonly selected as family pets.

hen you decide to welcome a new dog into your heart and home, it can be an exciting and somewhat stressful experience. Whether you are a first-time dog owner or a seasoned hand, we recommend doing your due diligence when it comes to researching the breed, or

mixture of breeds, you will be welcoming into your home. There are hundreds of dog breeds available, so doing your research in advance can not only open your eyes in terms of what's out there but also help you to choose a breed that is best suited to your lifestyle.

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A COMMON TRAP Many of us fall into the common traps of either selecting a dog based entirely on appearance or thinking of our friends and family's dogs and unquestioningly opting for the same breed. We strongly advise that you don't go based on appearance or restrict your decision based on interactions with dogs and dog breeds of friends - just because your neighbour has a quiet Husky doesn't mean that Huskies are generally the 'quiet type'. There are pros and cons to every type of dog, and doing a bit of reading and asking around can save you a lot of heartache in the long run. THE SIGNIFICANCE OF BREED Due to centuries of selective breeding, all dog breeds have been bred for a specific purpose, from working dogs to companion dogs. Because of this, each breed has a unique set of genetic traits that are hardwired into them.

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Knowing your preferred breed's purpose goes a long way towards determining whether this kind of dog will fit into your lifestyle. It also gives you an idea of the time required to train them, their exercise requirements, any health concerns, and any behavioural characteristics you can expect to experience. Mixed breed dogs may take on characteristics from either side of their lineage, which makes it tricky to know what you're getting (other than a lifetime of love, of course). If you have concerns, we recommend asking the rescue centre or breeder any questions you may have; they should be able to give you an indication of the specific dog's nature and characteristics.

DISCLAIMER It is also important to remember that, whilst research is essential, there are no guarantees about an individual dog's personality. The probability is high that your dog will express specific breed traits, but there are no hard and fast rules. Dogs are individuals, and you need to take the time to get to know the particular dog – especially as you are embarking on a 10-15 year commitment.

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A Collie is best suited to those with a very active lifestyle.

A KEY FIRST STEP The first step to getting a dog that fits into your lifestyle is to start by writing out a list of what you are looking for in a dog and what you have to offer. While you may love a companion breed, such as a Pekingese, they aren't going to be the best running and hiking partner (that's not to say they won't manage) due to their brachycephalic facial structures. In this case, you should rather look for a sportier breed to better suit your active lifestyle. MATCHMAKING Once you have done some general reading on the breeds available and spoken to any relevant parties, you can compare your findings against your list to see where the best fit lies. Making a decision based purely on emotion, rather than facts, is risky so whilst it may seem a bit overboard to sit and compare traits against lists of your requirements, we'd almost guarantee that by doing this you'll get a dog that is better suited to your lifestyle and, most importantly, a dog that is happy in the environment you provide for him!

DID YOU KNOW? If you already have a dog but are unsure as to their breed origins, some companies allow you to do a DNA test on your dog that will give you more insight into their breeding and, therefore, a better understanding of how best to meet their needs.

WHERE TO FIND YOUR DOG If you want a specific breed, please bear in mind that general rescue shelters often do have purebred dogs. There are also many breed-specific rescue organisations with dogs looking for homes. However, rescuing isn’t for everyone; if you choose to buy, please just do so responsibly by buying from an ethical and registered breeder. Ethical, registered breeders ensure that your dog is healthy and as 'true to type' as possible. Breeders registered with a regulatory body (such as the Kennel Union of South Africa) are required to do a range of breedspecific health tests to be registered. They should also temperament check the puppy to best match them to your family and lifestyle. TAKE HOME MESSAGE There will always be a dog that is the exception to the rule - a Border Collie who doesn't herd or a mountain climbing Pug – but, irrespective of the anomalies, research is an important step when it comes to preparing for, and understanding, your potential new canine family member. DQ|1B

If you want to advertise with us, please contact Courteney Meyer on courteney@dqmagazine.co.za

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TEXT: SAM WALPOLE

WHEN YOU SEE A DOG IN A PUBLIC SPACE … HAVE A LITTLE SELF-CONTROL!

any of us succumb to the general thought process that if we see a dog in a public space, he is there to be petted! In fact, this is absolutely not the case. A dog is an individual with his own likes, dislikes and personality traits, and we often forget this!

THE 'POLITE' THING In our very human way of thinking, we are taught that the polite thing to do in this scenario is to ask the owner's permission before launching into pet their dog. Unfortunately, it is not the owner that is going to be petted, and the subject of said 'petting' is not consulted in this human interaction. We all know how to pet a dog, but very few of us know how to pet a dog correctly whereby there is consent from the dog and therefore enjoyment of the interaction by both species. Far too frequently, this interaction plays out poorly, with the dog ending up being scolded for their 'behaviour'. DQ|1B

SAMANTHA WALPOLE Owner of Be The Dog Behaviour and Boarding Full Practicing Member SABCAP Full member Pet Professional Guild Advanced Animal Training Illis Trainer McKaynine Training Centre

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READING THE SIGNS The aloof or shy dog may just duck or turn away from the opposing outstretched hand, or he may turn his back to the stranger, try and walk away, cower or possibly growl. A few subtle signs to watch out for if the dog wants you to move away would be seeing the whites of the eyes, yawning, head turns, a tightly closed mouth and flicks of the tongue. Even if the owner has said yes to you, the dog is unmistakably saying 'no way'. The social dog who wants to engage may jump (or attempt to jump), or he may investigate the stranger with his nose, which could include the formidable crotch investigation (normal dog behaviour). This dog is happier to be greeted. Unfortunately, owners will often be embarrassed by this behaviour and tell the dog off for the enthusiasm, when in reality, they are simply communicating (in their way) that they are keen to interact. Either way, both shy and social dogs tend to get labelled as rude by their owner and perhaps told off, doing a huge disservice to the dog.

AN ANALOGY Wouldn't we find it a little weird if we were out and about with our family and random strangers approached asking if they could engage with our children? So why is it that we allow this so glibly with our dogs and expect our dogs to be 'polite sitting statues' during the process, with no say in the matter at all?

CONSEQUENCES Unfortunately, many well-meaning dog owners know little about dog language and often misinterpret their dog's behaviours. This can lead to unintended breakdowns in the relationship. For instance, in the case of the shy dog who communicates his discomfort, if his human fails to notice the signs or, worse still, tells the dog off for being 'rude', the dog simply learns that humans are threatening and that their owner cannot be trusted. DQ|1B

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TRUE ETIQUETTE When on the end of the lead, we consider it a kind of social etiquette norm to consent to let a stranger bend, reach and stroke our companion dogs. We are worried that we might be viewed as rude if we say 'no'. The reality is that you are absolutely allowed to say 'no' and can do this politely. You should not compromise your dog's welfare for the sake of someone else's need to touch your dog! To the person who is declined the greeting, please don't take it personally. Thank you for asking, and please accept the response gladly, knowing that this dog owner is supporting their dog's needs.

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TAKE HOME MESSAGE When you are out and about and see a dog, have a little self-control. Stand a few metres away and have a conversation with the owner whilst admiring the dog from a distance. Not all dogs like to be petted, and they should not be expected to tolerate touchy-feely humans!

B E H AV I O U R DID YOU KNOW?

Wagging their tails is a form of communication – dogs don't wag their tails when alone!

BODY LANGUAGE EXPLAINED PART 2: THE TAIL

ost of us believe that a wagging tail is just a sign of a happy dog, but few of us recognise that a wagging tail can also signal anger, aggression or anxiety. People sometimes describe a 'happy-looking' dog lunging at another dog 'out of the blue'. This 'unexpected' behaviour is in fact, entirely expected when one realises that a wagging tail is a sign of arousal, both positive and negative.

AROUSAL Arousal is simply a hyper-alert state. Your dog's heart rate rises, their reaction times decrease, and their senses become extra sensitive. If your dog's tail is wagging because you've just walked through the door or because you're about to throw a ball, they are alert because they are excited and happy. But, if their tail is wagging because they are patrolling the edge of the garden and they've just spotted a squirrel, they might be alert because they're gearing up for a chase. DQ|1B

B E H AV I O U R

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TWO ELEMENTS – POSITION AND SPEED The position of your dog's tail can give you more information about exactly how they're feeling. The speed of your dog's tail can also indicate their emotional state. POSITION 1. Circular swish – A dog whose tail swishes back and forth or makes a helicopter impression is a happy and relaxed pup. 2. Tucked tail – If your dog tucks their tail between their hind legs, they're feeling anxious, stressed or submissive. The further they tuck, the more worried they are. 3. Tail wagging swiftly – A dog who is excited may wag his tail stiffly while jumping, spinning or lifting his rump in the air. This excitement may be positive or negative. 4. Tail held horizontally – A tail held straight out indicates a dog who is attentive and alert or perhaps curious about something nearby. 5. Hanging loose – A loose tail with a gentle wag is a sign of a contented dog, especially if the wag leans right. A leftward lean can mean caution.

DID YOU KNOW? A dog's tail originally evolved to help him stay balanced. It serves as a counterweight to the front part of his body when he makes a highspeed turn and stops him from falling off narrow walkways. 6. Sudden tail raise – When a dog moves his tail from a downward position to a vertical position, it can signify aggression or high excitement. It's an indicator that their fight or flight response might be active.

WAG SPEED 1. Quick wag – A brief wag usually happens during meetings when a dog feels a bit hesitant. 2. Big, wide wag – This indicates a friendly, content dog. 3. Slow, reluctant wag – This can indicate a dog who is feeling anxious. 4. Tiny, high-speed wag – A tail that moves in short, vibrating bursts can be a sign that a dog is about to run or fight. DQ|1B

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LIVING IN FEAR HELPING THE FEARFUL DOG

here is abundant scientific evidence indicating that dogs experience intense emotions, just like humans. Sadly, fear is one of the most common emotions experienced by dogs and leads to many of the 'behavioural issues' owners describe in their dogs. Whether caused by loud noises, other dogs, strangers, going to the vet, nail clippers or objects like vacuum cleaners, it's distressing to see your dog showing signs of being fearful. The good news is that there are things you can try to reduce your dog's levels of fear and help them to cope better with stressful situations.

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WHAT MAKES SOME DOGS MORE FEARFUL THAN OTHERS? Some dogs display fear issues from an early age, while others are generally relaxed but have specific fears in certain situations. Sometimes the dog's reasons for being more fearful are easy to explain, but other times it can be impossible to determine why they are as nervous as they are. This list contains some of the more obvious factors that can cause dogs to become more fearful, but it is worth bearing in mind that even if your dog is not affected by one of these, it doesn't make his fearful reactions any less 'real' or 'important': • Genetics plays a sizeable role. It is well known that a fearful mother is likely to transmit this fear to her pups during pregnancy, and so is a mother-to-be who experiences high stress levels during her pregnancy. • A lack of socialisation and environmental enrichment during puppyhood can cause fear issues later in life. • Negative experiences during social encounters with other dogs can result in fear of other dogs or certain breeds or colours of dogs.

• An unpleasant experience, such as an attack by a dog or abuse from a human, can lead to long-term fear issues. • Physical or mental health issues, especially pain, can result in fear and avoidance of being touched or approached. • Toxicity from substances like cleaning products and air fresheners can elicit anxiety. • The ageing process can precipitate fear responses, especially with dogs who develop Canine Cognitive Disorder or physical health issues. • And, as mentioned above, occasionally, the cause is idiopathic, which means that we can't determine what it is.

CHEMISTRY OF FEAR Fear generates a cascade of chemical responses in the brain that have a powerful effect on your dog's mind, emotions and body. Exposure to the trigger, such as a loud noise or an unknown dog approaching, sets off an immediate alarm response in the amygdala, the brain's fear centre. The amygdala sends signals to the hypothalamus, and the release of corticotrophic releasing DQ|1B

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hormone prompts the release of cortisol. Cortisol sets off the fight or flight reflex, raises the blood pressure, speeds up the heart and respiration rate and dilates the pupils. Connections from the amygdala to the cingulate cortex tighten muscles, affecting the pitch of the voice, stimulating a growl and raising the hackles. The body goes into a state of emergency, and noradrenaline, which stimulates hyper-alertness, is produced and dispersed by the locus coeruleus in the brainstem. This all happens incredibly quickly. Your dog has no control over these responses and can't help but react to the perceived threat. He needs your help, as the rush of chemicals prevents him from thinking clearly. In essence, your dog genuinely believes his life is at risk during a fear episode.

THE LANGUAGE OF FEAR Dogs reveal their emotions eloquently through facial expressions and body language. If you observe the first signs that your dog is afraid, you can then act quickly before his fear levels escalate to the point where he can DQ|1B

no longer respond to you. Here's what you need to look out for: • Staring eyes • Furrowed brow • The whites of the eyes showing (whale eye) • Closed, tight mouth • Ears pinned back • Averted gaze • Tucked tail • Cringing or low body posture • Trembling • Urination or diarrhoea • Stepping back or withdrawing • Displacement behaviours such as sniffing, sitting or licking the genitals • Active escape behaviour • Aggression or reactivity If you see any of these behaviours, you should do what you can to reduce his stress levels before the situation becomes out of control.

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ANXIETY, FEAR, PHOBIA AND ANGER One of the most helpful things you can do is develop good observational skills regarding your dog's body language. This allows you to see what he is feeling and when i.e. what he is responding to and in what way. Is he reacting out of fear or anxiety? Is he phobic of something specific? Is he reacting out of anger? Understanding what your dog is experiencing can help you to manage difficult situations better. ANXIETY Anxiety is the anticipation of future danger. This can be from either known or unknown origins, and it can negatively affect all aspects of life. FEAR Fear is the body's automatic response to an external perceived threat, and it profoundly affects thinking processes and decision-making. A PHOBIA A phobia is an extreme, persistent, seemingly irrational fear resulting in panic and active avoidance.

ANGER Anger is an intense emotional response to frustration or a perceived threat. HOW TO HELP YOUR FEARFUL DOG • Work on gaining trust. This is vital to all aspects of the human-canine relationship, and it needs to be the foundation that you will build on in order to help your fearful dog. Trust is developed through always showing kindness, consistency and sensitivity towards your dog and their needs. Developing this trust takes time and a good understanding of canine behaviour. Ultimately, by taking measures to understand him and looking at the world from his perspective, you can begin to understand how confusing the world can be for your dog. This will allow you to empathise but also predict when problems may arise so you can 'protect' your dog accordingly. When your dog trusts you, he will feel confident that you have his best interests at heart, which will prompt him to look to you for guidance when he feels uncertain, anxious or afraid.

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• Be calm. Let him see that you are his champion and ALWAYS on his side. If you react with fear or anxiety yourself in a particular situation, he will sense this, and it will escalate his fear. Even if your anxiety is about his reaction rather than the actual stressor, it will still affect him. In behaviour terms, this is called 'emotional contagion.' Instead, take deep breaths and keep your body relaxed and your voice low and soft. • Avoid and remove all sources of fear wherever possible until your dog can cope better. For instance, if your dog is afraid of other dogs, this may involve setting up enrichment games in the garden as a substitute for walks for a while or hiring a secure dog-friendly play area where he can exercise and play without the stressful presence of other dogs. This will enable his day-to-day stress levels to drop so that he can pay attention to you when you start working on easing his fears. • Observe his body language and responses so that you can remove him from a situation as soon as you notice the very first signs of stress. • Use lots of environmental enrichment to keep him calm. When you see the first signs of stress, drop small pieces of food on the ground for him to sniff out and eat. This will cause the release of feel-good endorphins in his body and help him feel more relaxed. • Gradually introduce new experiences at a pace that

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he is comfortable with. Do not overwhelm your dog at this point, and show patience! Our dog does not think as we do and cannot rationalise like us – if he is afraid, he is genuinely afraid, and we need to respect this and give him the time and space he needs to cope with new experiences. • When you feel he's ready to be exposed to the source of his fear, do this from a distance and be careful not to move forward too quickly. You need to be prepared to go slowly and take steps back as necessary. You may even need to start over if you've gone too fast and he can't cope. • Praise and reward your dog for every positive response from him. This will teach him what you want from him, and the reinforcement with food and approval will boost his confidence.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE Fear is not an easy emotion to manage in either humans or canines. In both cases, time needs to be taken to understand the fear, increase confidence and coping ability, and gradually deal with the fear in 'baby steps'. If you take the time your dog needs and do not rush the process, you will soon find that you have a much braver and more confident canine companion. On the other hand, if you ignore the issue and expect your dog 'to get on with it' your dog will suffer from this fear and anxiety for the rest of his life.

BREED PROFILE

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BREED PROFILE

TEXT: COURTENEY MEYER

Dachshunds THE BADGER DOG

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BREED PROFILE

egendary literary critic and humourous journalist H.L Mencken described the Dachshund well, "half a dog high and a dog and a half long." Yet these comical dogs with long droopy ears are hunters second to none! Their name literally means Badger (dachs) Dog (hund) in German. These little scent hounds were bred to hunt ferocious badgers and other small game. Their short legs meant they were great diggers and able to manoeuvre through the tunnels to corner and catch the badger, rabbit or fox they were after.

SUITABILITY Whether you know them as a Sausage Dog, Doxie or Dashie, the Dachshund makes an excellent family companion with loads of character. Regardless of their variety, colour or size, they have been a popular choice of dog for many years.

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BREED PROFILE

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BREED PROFILE

They are clever, lively dogs who do not lack 'heart' or bravery. Perhaps their only downside is that their independent spirit can make them somewhat stubborn little dogs!

and red. Dachshunds can also have patterns in their coats, namely dapple, brindle and sable. Whichever variety and colour you choose, always be sure to do your research and purchase from a reputable breeder.

VARIETIES They come in three varieties, namely smooth, wirehaired and long-haired; are either miniature or standard-sized; and come in a variety of colours too. Smooth-coated Dachshunds are by far the most popular variety, and their short coats require minimal grooming. Wirehaired Dachshunds have short, wiry and rough coats with bushy eyebrows and a beard. They require weekly brushing, and two or three times a year, your groomer will 'strip' their coat, which removes the dead undercoat. Long-haired Dachshunds have a silky, wavy coat that requires regular brushing to avoid knots and mats and are believed to have a far more docile personality when compared to the other two varieties.

HEALTH RISKS This breed's most notable health concern is Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD). In the UK, up to 1 in 4 dachshunds will be affected by this in their lifetime. It is the Dachshunds' short-legged genetics (called chondrodystrophia) that predispose them to IVDD. All dogs' intervertebral discs degenerate with age, but this degeneration happens much younger in Dachshunds than in non-chondrodystrophic breeds. Other health concerns include PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy), a degenerative eye disease that may cause blindness.

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TAKE-HOME MESSAGE This versatile breed, with their variety of coat types, colours and personalities means that there is a Dachshund to suit almost everyone.

FRESHEN UP

TEXT: SARAH WANLESS

DOG NUTRITION

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DOG NUTRITION

THE BENEFITS OF ADDING EXTRAS INTO YOUR DOG’S DIET

ou don't need to be a raw food fan to add fresh foods into your dog's diet. In fact, there are undeniable benefits to adding fresh ingredients to your pet's kibble. Not only do the added ingredients break the monotony of kibble, but they also can add extra 'supplements' to the diet that can improve your dog's health. As with any new addition to your dog's diet, we recommend starting slowly, with small amounts and building up from there. If you notice any adverse effects of the additive, stop immediately and contact your vet if necessary. Good kibble is already nutritionally balanced,

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so remember that these additions are extras, and we don’t want to feed too much and risk overloading calories. Here we look at just four additives that your dog may enjoy and benefit from. We recommend rotating the foods listed below to keep feed times interesting for your pooch.

BONE BROTH Bone broth is a delicious and nutritious addition to your canine's kibble. It has been hailed as a superfood for humans and dogs alike. Bone broth has multiple benefits for dogs, particularly supplying bioavailable glucosamine,

DOG NUTRITION

chondroitin, and hyaluronic acid that are vital for joint health. Bone broth is also a rich source of other essential vitamins and minerals. Bone broth is super easy to make yourself, and if you are interested in doing this, we would recommend the recipe provided in the book 'The Forever Dog'. Alternatively, there are other ready-made options available, but just be sure to check that all the ingredients are canine appropriate.

EGGS Eggs are the epitome of the adage ‘dynamite comes in small packages’. They are convenient, naturally packaged and jammed full of nutrients. Eggs are the perfect combination of high protein and healthy fats combined with a wide variety of vitamins and minerals and are a nice, inexpensive addition to your dog's kibble. As most dogs have no trouble digesting the bacteria in eggs (dogs have a high gut pH of approximately 7.3), eggs can be fed raw or cooked.

We advise adding egg to your dog's meal every other day. A whole egg is around 70 calories and is suitable for bigger dogs, while we recommend giving smaller dogs half an egg.

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NOTE

It is advisable to discuss any changes to your dog's diet with your veterinarian or a canine nutritionist.

FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES Just as fruits and vegetables have amazing health benefits for humans, the same is true for your dogs. Fresh fruits and raw veggies are packed full of phytonutrients, vitamins and minerals that help fight cancer, are full of antioxidants, are anti-inflammatory, and are anti-ageing, to name just a few of the benefits. It is recommended that you puree all fruits and veggies for your pup to assist in the digestive process and allow them to get the most benefit from them. We recommend additions such as spinach, pumpkin, blueberries, apples (no pips), green beans, carrot and raspberries. Follow Dr Karen Becker on Facebook and Instagram for more ideas on how to incorporate fresh fruit and veggies into your dog's diet. NOTE: Always check before indiscriminately adding fruit and veg to your dog's meal as some can be toxic to dogs.

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TAKE HOME MESSAGE Play around and see which of these additives your dog most enjoys. We'd love to hear from you about any additional elements you put into your dog's diet and what benefits you have noticed.

SARDINES Fresh, frozen sardines or canned sardines packed in water are one of the most concentrated sources of Omega3 fatty acids that you can get. Omega 3s are beneficial for your dog's heart, brain, and skin. They are also an excellent source of taurine, which is needed for healthy eyes and heart health. DQ|1B

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PAW PEDICURE 54

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CARING FOR YOUR DOG’S PAWS

hen a horse presents with lameness, one of the first places every owner and vet will check is the hoof. This is because the age-old adage of ‘No foot, no horse’ rings true in the equine species. The same rule, however, applies for all creatures, including our beloved canine companions. If a dog is presenting with an area of tension in the body, such as the back or neck, it is usually a good idea to start by checking the paws.

PAWS ARE IMPORTANT Paw care is an area of canine welfare that is gaining increasing attention, and as with most things, it is easier to prevent issues or deal with them early before they get bad enough to cause lameness and require veterinary intervention. Problems with paws can be attributed to a variety of factors such as puncture wounds from thorns, embedded grass seeds, attached ticks, mite infestations, infections (fungal and bacterial), allergies, cysts, lumps, growths, wounds and even something as simple as overgrown or broken claws. Whilst these things may not seem to be significant issues in isolation, the slightest imbalance can, over time, cause DQ|1B

sizeable problems. Suddenly, a simple paw issue has created a dog who is sore to touch in multiple areas across his entire body. Once the dog gets to the stage where long term compensation for his paw problem has created sore muscles in places such as the back, it can take a long time to undo the issue. As an added challenge, in most of these cases working on the back problem itself won’t actually make the dog more comfortable. Instead, additional therapeutic modalities will be required to help the dog use the initially affected limb normally to take the pressure off the other muscles that are being used to compensate. Only once the gait is more even will the pain resolve. AN ADDED PROBLEM Dogs, like most animals, will try and cover up illness, lameness or weakness to prevent being seen as the weakest one in the group. While this would serve the species well in the wild, it does not help us when trying to spot health issues in our dogs.

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NOTE It is common with domestic animals that when they sustain an injury or gait altering issue, the new way of moving can become a habit. This can be continued even long after the injury or problem has gone. Unfortunately, when the new altered gait becomes a habit, it can be more difficult to return to normal. This is because (unlike when the problem first occurred) there is no pain, so it becomes less about removing pain to allow the movement to return to normal and instead becomes a retraining process.

SIGNS OF A PAW ISSUE Depending on the nature of the issue in the paw, the dog will commonly do one of two things. They will either walk differently and change their gait, whilst still using all four limbs, or if they feel it is necessary, they will hold the affected limb up entirely and take all weight off it altogether. While both of these mechanisms cause compensatory problems, they cause them in different areas and can change the rehabilitation schedule and treatments required. GAIT CHANGE A change in gait is normally how we as humans first see a problem with the dog. How the gait is being altered to cope will determine how the rest of the body reacts and is forced to change in compensation. Some dogs will stand more on their toes, taking weight off the stopper pad or vice versa, almost sinking back to take the weight off the toes. Some dogs will weight bear on one side of the paw more than the other, and some will simply place the paw down but limp on it, so the weight is only on that paw for a short period of time. If the dog takes on these coping mechanisms, it may be very obvious to see, or it may only be noticed by a trained eye. As soon as you notice the change, speak to your vet, as the quicker you can resolve the issue, the less likely there are to be compensatory issues. In the case of compensatory issues, once the primary problem in the paw has been identified and addressed, the task now becomes how to return the gait to normal. This can be done in various ways and usually employs a variety of strategies.

LIMB HOLDING With some paw issues, the dog may be in so much pain that they don’t place any weight on the paw at all. Nonweight bearing on a limb for a prolonged period can have serious consequences for the rest of the body and also create habits of movement that are hard to break. The only positive in this case is that it is straightforward to detect, so treatment can be sought promptly. However, if the problem does go on for a long time, there is no quick fix to retrain a dog to use a limb again. A NOTE ON LIMB HOLDING All limbs have two sets of muscles, those that flex it and those that extend it. When a dog holds a limb up, there is a constant strain on the muscles that flex the leg as the leg is held in a flexed position all of the time. This, in turn, also means that the muscles that would cause the leg to extend start to waste, as they don’t get used. Reequilibrating these muscles once the paw problem is resolved takes time and concerted effort!

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WARNING! Burns to paws can be a serious medical issue and require prompt veterinary attention. Burned paws may look red, blistered and swollen.

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KEEPING PAWS HEALTHY We, as animal owners, have a duty of care for our animals, and it is important to take notice of any deviations in gait or changes in behaviour before they result in serious problems. Making a point of watching your dog move can reveal changes in gait that might otherwise go unnoticed.

Similarly, regularly inspecting the paws is a good habit to get into to make sure injuries don’t go unnoticed. It is usually advised to do these checks when the dog has come in from playing outside or been on a walk, as these are the times that they usually pick up an injury. It is good practice to make sure claws are always an appropriate length and intact with no cracks or splits. You should check

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NAIL ISSUES • Long toenails: Long toenails are common and can have lots of negative consequences for your dog. Long nails can make it more difficult for your dog to walk. When a dog’s nails contact hard ground, the hard surface pushes the nail back up into the nail bed creating pain for the dog, and this can put pressure on all the toe joints. Long nails also make it more likely for your dog to suffer from a fractured or torn nail. • Ingrown nails: Nails that are not trimmed properly or naturally worn down by walking outside can become painful ingrown toenails. • Torn nails: Torn or fractured nails occur when your dog catches their toenail on something. A common scenario is when a dog suddenly starts limping, and bleeding, and upon closer inspection, an injured nail is seen. Torn and fractured nails can be very painful and commonly bleed, so they are best treated by a vet.

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for even paw wear and that the pads have no blisters, cuts or scrapes. You also need to look out for foreign bodies including ticks between the toes, thorns in pads, or grass seeds. Regular grooming sessions for dogs with long hair between the paw pads are also recommended. Breeds such as spaniels should have this hair kept short, especially in winter, to prevent burrs from forming here and causing discomfort. It is also advised to take precautions to reduce the risk of any paw trauma. For instance, check before walking on hot tarmac or sand as this can burn the pads off the paws altogether! Also, look out for dry paws, as these can crack and bleed and cause discomfort. Natural paw balms are very useful in sorting out dry paws before they become an issue.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE A paw problem may seem minor in the grand scheme of things, but the change in gait your dog inevitably develops as a consequence can cause major body issues if the issue is not resolved quickly. Paws are increasingly in the spotlight as a welfare issue because of these longer-term effects. Being proactive with paw checks and reactive the moment you notice an issue can prevent paw problems becoming a major concern for your dog.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO GIVE YOUR LOYAL, OLD DOG THE BEST TWILIGHT YEARS YOU CAN? As our dogs start to get older, they move less and less. They stop playing, like they used to. They sleep more and more and we accept this. After all, it’s natural for our animal companions to slow down as they age, isn’t it? But can we do more to improve their quality of life in their twilight years? This article explores the causes of pain in our older animal companions, tells us how to identify some of the signs of pain, and what we can do to make our older dogs more comfortable. WHO WE ARE Animal Health and Hydro is a Veterinary Physical Rehabilitation facility with two branches, one on the East Rand and the other in Pretoria East. Animal Health and Hydro was started in 2009 by qualified Veterinarian Dr Tanya Grantham. For the past 12 years Dr Tanya, or Dr Tee as she is affectionately known, has invested significant time and energy into learning all she can about the methods that enhance the quality of life of in her patients by decreasing the pain they feel. She has an honest desire to help her animal patients to feel better and to provide information to pet parents, so that they are enabled and empowered when making decisions regarding the health and wellbeing of their animal companions.

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NOTE: Dr Tanya tells us that conditions such as osteoarthritis, hip and elbow dysplasia, and old injuries flare up in the colder weather, resulting in an increase in patients seeking treatment at Animal Health and Hydro, once winter starts to set in. She tells us that it is well-documented that winter weather is associated with an increase in aches and pains. There has been an early start this year because of the wet weather we have experienced this past summer.

THE PROBLEM Changes in behaviour are often seen as aging, and brushed off as, “the dog is getting older.” However, being aware of changes associated with pain in older dogs, and then acting to minimise the effects of pain, can create a cascade of events which actually improves the quality of life of the pet, and increases longevity. Dogs – particularly older dogs – often show pain in very subtle ways which can be misconstrued as normal signs of aging.

SIGNS OF PAIN Dr Tee advises us to look out for any of the following signs of pain: limping, excessive grooming, heavy panting especially when the weather is not hot, an inability to get comfortable or pacing (usually at night), whining or whimpering and aggression or behavioural changes. Joint degradation occurs frequently in older dogs and the dog may be less mobile than usual, especially in the morning or after a long walk. There may be changes in weight. Weight gain may occur because the dog is less active or weight loss may be noticed because pain is suppressing the appetite. It is important to acknowledge the aging process because we then become receptive to adjusting lifestyles to achieve the best possible outcome.

WHAT WE CAN DO Dr Tanya suggests that the following management and lifestyle changes be considered, so as to make your senior pet more comfortable.

Choose an appropriate diet, which is high quality and will help to maintain an ideal body weight. Weight gain can make it more difficult for your older dog to walk, stand, or jump, and reluctant to go on walks. Make it part of your geriatric check up to perform a body condition evaluation. DQ|1B

Add supplements to your senior dog’s diet. Consider fortifying your senior dog’s diet with fatty acids such as DHA and EPA. A glucosamine and chondroitin combination, although not clinically proven to reduce pain, does seem to improve mobility. Hyaluronic acid (HA) may also be used. Oral supplementation with HA increases synovial fluid viscosity, making movement smoother. Exercise a senior dog regularly. This can help keep an older dog lean and maintain healthy joints and muscles. However, the program must be adjusted to meet the individual dog’s needs. Long and vigorous walks are almost guaranteed to make the dog sore and may speed up joint degradation, so it is best to go on multiple short walks instead. In this way, the muscles will stay strong and supple and appetite will be stimualted. Improve accessibility and decrease stress factors. In the home this may take the form of a non-slip mat over the kitchen tiles, a ramp leading up to the bed or an orthopaedic bed if the dog does not sleep with you. A thick, warm bed provides a lot of joint support and comfort to an aching body. You must also protect your dog from weather extremes, and should avoid cold and wet weather. You need to provide ample and appropriate shelter during the day and consider bringing them in at night if not already doing so. Lift the dog into the car if he is struggling to jump in, or purchase a ramp to assist with this. We recommend buying a seat belt or harness for the car to limit the amount of balancing the old dog has to do when travelling. Use supportive therapy for senior pets which can be used as an adjunct to conventional medicine. These therapies include therapeutic laser, acupuncture and physical modalities. Therapeutic laser reduces pain associated with inflammation. Acupuncture enhances blood flow and stimulates the release of endorphins, further assisting with pain management. Massage and heat are wonderful modalities to release tension from aching bodies. Hydrotherapy, whether in the form of warm water, buoyancy and the use of jets, or as a gentle controlled exercise will also improve mobility and muscular strength. The joints are not stressed yet hydrotherapy builds cardiovascular health and core strength.

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XXX There is much misinformation and misunderstanding of the nature of pain in our animal companions, the use of medication and their response to these medicines. Being aware of changes in your ageing pet, and understanding that there is much that can be done, will improve your animal companion’s quality of life in his twilight years. If you would like to know more Dr Tanya is running a 5 module online course called Dr Tee’s Pain Prevention Protocol, starting on the 17 May 2022, which can teach you more about giving your beloved companion the best twilight years possible. To learn more visit: https://drtanyagrantham.co.za/index.php/product/dr-tees-pain-prevention-protocolfor-dogs/

Heidi Progress video

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD 154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni Contact: 083 230 2188 Email: animalhealths@gmail.com ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST 218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates Contact: 074 251 4410 Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com DQ|1B

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TEXT: DR MEGAN ESTERHUYSEN (BVSC)

ARTHRITIS

IT’S NOT JUST AN OLD DOG DISEASE!

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rthritis? No, it cannot possibly be! He is so young.” These are the words of multiple clients holding their 7-month-old puppy or bringing their 2-year-old dog in for routine vaccinations. They are utterly shocked that their young dog is suffering from lifelong, progressive joint disease. The shock these owners feel is largely because we have largely come to regard osteoarthritis as exclusively a disease of old age. Unfortunately, this is not the case. Whilst it is true that one in every five dogs suffers from osteoarthritis, and most of these are older, there are several orthopaedic conditions in young dogs that lead to very early onset arthritis.

The trick is to recognise these conditions quickly and get your vet involved. Early management can be lifesaving for these pets, so speak to your vet today if you have any concerns.

WHAT IS OSTEOARTHRITIS? Osteoarthritis (OA), also known as degenerative joint disease, is characterised by the gradual breakdown of articular cartilage covering the surfaces of joints. The main functions of articular cartilage are to act as a shock absorber and decrease friction between the bones making up the joints. With osteoarthritis, catabolic processes lead to the breakdown of articular cartilage and the repair DQ|1B

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process can’t keep up with the rate of destruction and becomes limited. The overall result is that the cartilage cannot withstand normal load-bearing, and areas of soft cartilage develop cracks exposing the underlying bone.

IS MY PUPPY AT RISK? Several conditions in young dogs can lead to osteoarthritis. Here we look at a few of these to help you detect them early on, before they result in irreversible damage. ELBOW DYSPLASIA Elbow dysplasia, defined as the abnormal development of the elbow joint, results in abnormal bone growth, cartilage development and joint stresses. The elbow joint in the dog consists of three bones: the humerus, radius, and ulna. If the bones do not fit together perfectly, there will be irregular weight distribution in specific joint areas.

Three conditions lead to elbow dysplasia: • A fragmented medial coronoid process • Osteochondrosis/osteochondritis dessicans of the medial humeral condyle • Ununited anconeal process Clinical signs often become apparent when your puppy is as young as 5-8 months of age. Signs to watch out for in these dogs include intermittent lameness on one or both front legs, stiffness, especially after sleeping and a stilted gait. The lameness is often worse after exercise or resting, so owners can think that the puppy simply overdid it or slept wrong. Genetics also play a role, and predisposed breeds include Rottweilers, Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers and English Springer Spaniels.

Site of elbow dysplasia and hip dysplasia.

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Acetabulum

Head of femur

However, elbow dysplasia is the most common reason for front limb lameness in dogs, so it should be considered in all breeds.

Certain breeds are again predisposed due to genetics, including Great Danes, Saint Bernards, Labrador Retrievers, Germain Shepherds, Pugs, and Bulldogs.

HIP DYSPLASIA Hip dysplasia, on the other hand, refers to abnormal development of the hip joint. In this condition, the soft tissues which generally stabilise the joint become loose within the first few weeks of life. Therefore, the femur head (ball) is not well covered by the acetabulum (socket), causing the femur head to pop in and out of the acetabulum while the dog walks. As the dog ages, the hip dysplasia will result in hip osteoarthritis. Clinical signs in young dogs can be seen as early as four months of age and again at 3-4 years of age. Puppies and young dogs with hip dysplasia are usually less active, which the owners often put down to having a quiet, well-behaved puppy. Other signs you may pick up include a reluctance to climb up or downstairs, or your puppy may have a bunny hopping gait where they bounce up the stairs with both the back legs. They tend to have under-developed muscles in their back legs and seemingly more muscled front legs.

CRANIAL CRUCIATE LIGAMENT RUPTURE Another common orthopaedic disease we see in young dogs is cranial cruciate ligament rupture, and if left untreated, this condition will lead to osteoarthritis within the knee. The function of the cranial cruciate ligament is to stabilise the knee and prevent overextension and internal rotation of the joint. Rupture of the ligament is normally gradual with a progressive weakening or degeneration, almost like a fraying rope. Clinical signs may be intermittent and include difficulty standing or jumping into the car, intermittent lameness and muscle wasting in the affected leg, as well as a decreased activity level. When the ligament completely ruptures, the dog will no longer want to bear any weight on the leg. Certain dog breeds have a higher incidence of developing cranial cruciate ligament disease, including the Rottweiler, Labrador Retriever, American Cocker Spaniel, Chow Chow and English Bulldog.

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Here we see the patella in its normal position.

MEDIAL PATELLA LUXATION Lastly, we will look at medial patella luxation (MPL), a congenital/developmental disorder that can lead to osteoarthritis within the knee. The patella (kneecap) is a small bone that lies in the trochlear ridge (groove) of the femur and aids in extending the knee. The kneecap lies within the powerful quadriceps muscle, and with MPL, the kneecap luxates (moves) to the inside of the joint. This, in turn, leads to malalignment of the quadriceps mechanism, which acts as a bowstring leading to the femur and tibia deforming into a pronounced outward bow. Clinical signs may vary depending on the severity of the luxation and any concomitant skeletal deformities present. Grade 1 is when the patella (kneecap) can be luxated with manual pressure, and these pets generally do not show any clinical signs. With a Grade 2 luxation, the kneecap spontaneously luxates, and we typically see a “skipping” type of lameness. The difference between Grade 3 and Grade 4 MPL is that with Grade 4 MPL, the knee cap is permanently luxated and unlike a Grade 3 MPL, the knee cap cannot be positioned back into the trochlear groove. DQ|1B

With a Grade 3 or 4 MPL, the lameness is more persistent, and an abnormal posture can be present. With Grade 1 and 2, lameness is intermittent, and the dog may occasionally lift the leg or stretch it back to allow the patella to pop back into the groove of the patella. Medial patella luxation is common in our small breeds, with Poodles, Pomeranians, Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, French Bulldogs, Pugs and Bulldogs being some of the breeds which are predisposed to the development of this disease. Dogs with MPL are predisposed to cranial cruciate rupture due to a change in the biomechanics within the knee joint. In fact, in one study, 41% of dogs suffering from cranial cruciate ligament rupture had concurrent MPL.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE This is just a brief overview of some of the most common juvenile orthopaedic diseases which can lead to osteoarthritis in later life. So if you are at all worried about your beloved pooch, make an appointment with your local veterinarian today. By acting early, you could be changing the course of your dog's entire life. Don’t hesitate and act now!

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TEXT: COURTENEY MEYER

DOG DEMENTIA CANINE COGNITIVE DECLINE

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D O G H E A LT H

ementia may be something that springs to mind when you think of elderly humans, but did you know dogs can suffer from it too? Like humans, older dogs are susceptible to developing age-related illnesses like dementia. Also known as Canine Cognitive Decline or Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome, dementia in dogs progresses in much the same way as it does in humans.

SYMPTOMS If you have noticed any changes in your dog that lead you to think they could be suffering from cognitive decline, speak to your vet. These symptoms typically start after the age of nine (earlier in larger breed dogs), but any signs of cognitive decline at any age should prompt a visit to your vet. Remember that it can be easy to miss dementia as it is slow to develop. The acronym DISHA is used to look for the common symptoms of dementia in dogs: DQ|1B

Disorientation: This is one of the most recognisable signs of dementia in dogs. This may include getting lost in familiar surroundings or staring into space or at the floor or wall. Dogs often end up pacing around the house and can get stuck behind furniture. Interaction changes: Your dog may become clingy or withdraw and lose interest in socialising with people or their environment. Sleep/Wake cycle disruptions: Your dog may be restless in the evenings and struggle to sleep through the night. They may end up pacing and whining or barking. This lack of sleep at night may result in your dog sleeping more in the daytime. House soiling: Your previously house-trained dog may start to have accidents in the house. Activity changes: You may find your dog’s activity level decreases along with a decline in their grooming habits and even a lack of appetite. External stimuli like other dogs, sounds or people may also no longer interest them.

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Other illnesses which would need to be ruled out before diagnosing dementia include diabetes, Cushing’s Disease, Urinary Tract Infections, kidney disorders, high blood pressure, arthritis and a loss of hearing or vision.

THE SCIENCE Unfortunately, we don’t understand these degenerative changes in the brain very well, but we know that the number of nerve cells in the brain reduces as dogs age. Free radicals and a buildup of neurotoxic deposits may be contributing factors in the onset of dementia. TREATMENT Treatment protocols will be up to your vet. They may feel your dog would benefit from an anti-depressant, pain

control or just some daily supplementation. Good quality Omega 3s are important for cognitive function (EPA and DHA), so these can be useful additives. Anti-oxidants like blueberries and cold green tea can also be added to your dog’s diet, as these aim to slow the progress of the disease by limiting the damage caused by free radicals. Gentle exercise and therapy like acupuncture may also benefit your senior dog with dementia. In terms of practical measures at home, you should try to limit big changes. For instance, avoid moving furniture around dramatically as this can cause these older dogs to feel confused or get hurt or stuck. Above all, be patient with your senior, love them and always be sure to have their quality of life as the main priority.

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Out of a love for adventure and a black dog, the Life of George was born. Life of George is the coolest place for dogs and their humans to shop.

www.lifeofgeorge.co.za 078 488 4333 | ceo@lifeofgeorge.co.za @lifeofgeorge

@lifeofgeorge

W E L FA R E

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THE DACHSHUND HAVEN LOVING LITTLE LONG DOGS

he Dachshund Haven is a breed-specific rescue organisation that focuses on the rescue, rehabilitation and rehoming of this wonderful breed. We do not use a shelter environment as these guys don't do particularly well if they are not spread out on a couch or taking over someone's bed, so instead, we use foster homes. Without our fosters, we would not be able to assist as many Dachshunds as we do each year. Our dogs come from various situations; for example, we receive strays, abandoned dogs, dogs from emigration, divorce or challenging financial situations, and dogs belonging to elderly people who are unable to take their beloved dogs with them to their care facility or retirement complex. By being specific to the breed, we can offer tailor-made advice to our adopters. For instance, we offer specific weight loss guidance to all adopters and the general public to ensure that their Dachshund remains healthy and not overweight. This is crucial as these long dogs are often genetically predisposed to IVDD or Intervertebral Disc Disease, which is a spinal disorder that follows the herniating, bulging or tearing of an intervertebral disc. Obesity increases the risk of IVDD, and exacerbates the problem if it is already present. IVDD, of course, results in

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severe pain for the dog and the need for surgery in many cases, which can be incredibly costly. Therefore, we also recommend that all our adopters and anyone considering the adoption of a Dachshund get pet insurance. The Dachshund Haven team is always ready to engage with the public to guide them and support these 'little long' dogs.

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SENIOR CITIZENS PROGRAMME We have a Senior Saver programme, where seniors over 60 years of age may apply to foster a Dachshund over the age of 10. We cover all major medical costs; the senior person just has to love and care for the Dachshund until either they can't anymore or until the Dachshund passes on. It's a wonderful way for senior citizens to still have the companionship of a dog without the financial costs attached. We love to see just how much joy and life our Dachshunds bring to our seniors in the programme.

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We have an incredibly hardworking and dynamic team (Kimbal, Arnel, Julie, Tatum and Jetty) who are available to assist wherever we can. We are solely funded by the public, so every cent received is put to good use, allowing us to further our reach and ability to care for as many Dachshunds in need as possible. We can be contacted on: Adoptions@thedachshundhaven.co.za or via WhatsApp on 083 325 2484 (Kimbal).

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TEARS ANIMAL RESCUE MAKING A DIFFERENCE

EARS Animal Rescue is a registered, pro-life, nonprofit organisation located in the Deep South of Cape Town. As one of the country’s leading animal welfare organisations, TEARS’ mission is to rescue, rehabilitate, and rehome vulnerable companion animals and provide veterinary services to local low-income communities.

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THEIR WORK TEARS provides a sanctuary for cats and dogs in need to end homelessness, neglect, abuse, illness and injury in the various communities they serve, both in and around Cape Town, by rendering veterinary assistance, compassionate education, rescue, rehabilitation, and rehoming. Through various programmes, TEARS uplifts communities and animals. The TEARS Veterinary Hospital hosts a fullservice veterinary team that is accessible at either a free or welfare rate. The TEARS Mobile Clinic and Animal Response Vehicle act as both an on-site clinic for parasite treatment and vaccines as well as an ambulance service bringing animals in need of treatment, care, surrender and sterilisation to our location. DQ|1B

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COMMUNITY CATS Often overlooked, the community cats that roam and live on the streets are of particular concern to TEARS, who operates a volunteer network of trappers called the Community Cat Project. Community cats, or feral cats, are trapped and brought to TEARS for health screenings and sterilisation before being released back to their environment. This best practice serves to improve the health and well-being of the community cats and impact disease control in their territory.

TAKE-HOME MESSAGE As a pro-life, registered, non-profit organisation, TEARS relies on the support of caring individuals and corporates to assist them in fulfilling their mission to bring relief to animals in distress, whether through intervention, education, medical assistance, or rehoming. All TEARS Animal Rescue supporters and volunteers are vital in creating happy endings for the countless dogs, puppies, cats, and kittens in their care. Support TEARS by making a donation at www.tears.org. za/donate or joining the TEARS Woof & Whiskers Club to contribute monthly and win at www.tears.org.za/ woofandwhiskersclub

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DIGITAL ISSUE 158B | 2022

SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER EQUESTRIAN MAGAZINE

DIGITAL ISSUE 158B | 2022

SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER EQUESTRIAN MAGAZINE

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THE TEARS ONLINE SHOP MAKING A BIG IMPACT ON ANIMAL WELFARE

Shop with your heart at www.tears.org.za/shop TEARS offers Cape Town-only delivery for now but will soon be offering nationwide delivery! Sign up for the TEARS newsletter and receive a 10% off promo code for your first order. For more information about the TEARS Online Shop, please reach out to us at orders@tears.org.za.

ith so many choices when it comes to purchasing your pet food, accessories, toys and pet healthcare supplies, it can be hard to decide which shop you’d like to support. By shopping at the TEARS Online Shop, not only are you enjoying great savings and a large selection of pet food and products, you are shopping with your heart! One hundred per cent of the proceeds from the TEARS Online Shop feed directly into their mission to rescue, treat, rehabilitate and rehome animals in the low-income communities they serve. When shopping, you can also choose products to donate to TEARS that will be delivered directly to them. Choose from any product featured in the Online Shop or visit the ‘Donate’ section to purchase products that you can donate to TEARS for its outreach and community support programmes or to support the kennels, cattery and clinic. “We’ve made it easy for Capetonians to do good by buying their pet food and other supplies via TEARS. You don’t spend extra but have the peace of mind knowing that all profits generated go into fuelling their work and helping them reach more animals in need. Supporting the TEARS Online Shop means you believe in the work TEARS is doing and that you want to make a difference for vulnerable animals,” says TEARS Online Shop Coordinator Michelle Mohr. Each purchase contributes towards the shelter, rehabilitation, and care of up to 250 companion animals at TEARS Animal Rescue, with proceeds feeding back into numerous TEARS outreach schemes. These include the sterilisation and vaccination of companion animals in vulnerable communities, children’s education programmes, and the rescue of animals in distress across Cape Town’s South Peninsula.

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YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Which fruits can dogs eat?

Fruit can be a healthy additive to our dog's diet. While our dogs don't technically NEED fruit for health, the addition of fresh fruits to their normal diet, with permission and advice from your vet, can provide an added boost of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, as well as some extra hydration. Importantly, however, not all fruits are good for dogs, and you need to do your research before feeding your dog any type of fruit. Even if the fruit is 'allowed', you still need to pay attention to how your

dog responds. If your dog gets an upset stomach or shows some discomfort after eating the fruit, then don't feed them that type of fruit again – even if it is otherwise safe for them. Here are 10 of the best fruits to feed your pup: APPLES – Slices of apple make excellent treats and meal toppers. Just don't feed any pips from the apple since they contain small amounts of cyanide (!) and also pose a choking risk. Benefits: • Contain vitamin A, vitamin C and fibre. • C ertain of the phytochemicals housed in the skin have been suggested to help combat cancer. • Help clean teeth and freshen breath.

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Q&A

BANANAS Benefits: • C ontain high amounts of vitamin C, potassium and fibre. • T he fibre in bananas is thought to be good for your dog's digestive system. BLACKBERRIES – With smaller dogs, you will probably need to cut blackberries down into smaller pieces to feed them safely. Benefits: • Contain vitamin C, vitamin K, manganese and fibre. • M ay have antibacterial properties to support good oral health. BLUEBERRIES – Dogs tend to love blueberries! Benefits: • C ontain vitamin C, vitamin K, calcium, magnesium, zinc, iron and antioxidants. • B lueberries are low in sugar and fat and make a good treat for dogs who need to avoid too many extra calories. CANTALOUPE – You can feed cantaloupe to your dog, but do not feed the rind since the rough texture can cause damage to the intestines. Benefits: • C ontains vitamin A, vitamin B6 and vitamin C, as well as fibre, potassium, folate and niacin. • C ontains high doses of beta-carotene, which is good for your dog's vision and immune system. TOP TIP Always be cautious when it comes to feeding any fruit for the first time. Even the ten safe fruits listed here can pose a problem to your particular dog, so do your research, feed small amounts first and be on the lookout for signs of a bad reaction. If in doubt, contact your vet!

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CRANBERRIES – Cranberries can be fed to your dog raw, cooked or dried, but you shouldn't feed the sugar-heavy cranberry sauce. Benefits: • C ontain vitamin C and vitamin E, as well as a range of B vitamins, including thiamine, niacin, riboflavin and B6. • Cranberries are high in antioxidants. PAPAYA – The flesh of the papaya makes an excellent snack for your pooch! Benefits: • C ontain vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and vitamin K, as well as folate, fibre, calcium and potassium. RASPBERRIES – Raspberries should only be consumed in moderation. Benefits: • C ontain vitamin C, folic acid, copper, magnesium, fibre and antioxidants. STRAWBERRIES – For safe strawberry feeding, slice off the leaves at the top first and then quarter the strawberry. If you have a small dog, you can cut each quarter in half again before feeding (or smaller if needed). Benefits: • C ontain vitamin C, vitamin B6, vitamin K and vitamin E, as well as folate, potassium and manganese. • S trawberries can significantly boost the immune system with their high level of antioxidants. • T hey have a high water content making them superhydrating for your dog. WATERMELON – With watermelon, don't feed the rind or seeds, as these are difficult for your dog to digest. Benefits: • C ontains vitamin A, vitamin B6 and vitamin C, as well as thiamine, which helps convert fat, protein and carbohydrates into energy. • High in lycopene, an antioxidant that protects against cell damage. • Incredibly hydrating, thanks to its high water content.

Q&A

Why do dogs rub their faces?

Dogs are often seen rubbing their faces on walls, floors, walls, grass and other things. This behaviour is not always a cause for concern and may be the result of something as simple as an itchy face, but there are some cases where you may need to visit the vet.

WHEN TO BE WORRIED If a dog regularly rubs their face on something, then there may be a problem; intermittent rubbing is less likely to be a concern. CONCERNING CAUSES ALLERGIES Some dogs develop allergies that cause them to be itchy and rub their faces. Itchy skin is also commonly DQ|1B

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associated with itchy eyes, so these dogs may rub their faces in an attempt to 'scratch the itch'. Allergies can be to a food or treat that a dog eats or environmental allergens such as cleaning products, dust mites, various grasses or pollen. These allergies may be a constant problem or may just affect the dog seasonally. A dog with allergies is likely to have other symptoms, including itchy or smelly ears, itchy paws, an itchy bottom and other skin changes, including redness, hives and/or thickened skin. NOTE: If the allergic symptoms have developed quickly and/or you notice any swelling around the face, take your dog to the vet immediately.

INSECTS External parasites include fleas, mites such as Demodex and scabies and ticks. These parasites can bite or burrow into the skin and may cause discomfort or itchiness. If your dog appears extremely itchy, he should be examined by your vet. IRRITATION FROM A COLLAR New collars or collars that are too tight may cause a dog to rub his face and neck on the ground, furniture, and walls to relieve the discomfort. You should always be able to comfortably slip two fingers (vertically) under your dog's collar. OTHER CAUSES Dogs with food, dirt or water on their faces may rub them on something to wipe it off. PAIN A dental issue, nose pain or ear pain can cause a dog to rub his face on something to ease the pain. Dogs with dental pain may eat less or only chew on one side of their mouth. Bad breath, bloody saliva and dropping food from their mouths are other signs that point to dental causes. Nose pain or irritation can come about through the presence of polyps and cause your dog to rub their face to ease the discomfort. Ear pain also causes dogs to rub their faces. Other signs of ear pain include a bad smell from the ear and redness within the ear. If you suspect pain to be the cause of the face rubbing, take your dog to get them examined by a vet ASAP. DQ|1B

EYE ISSUES An itchy or painful eye can occur due to allergy, infection or injury. A dog with eye irritation will often paw at his eye or hold it shut. If an eye problem is suspected, your dog needs to receive urgent veterinary attention. BRAIN TUMOUR Brain tumours are a rare cause of a dog rubbing his face on something but do merit mention. Brain tumours can cause pain and discomfort, and this can lead to head rubbing or pressing. Other signs indicative of a brain tumour include seizures, behavioural changes, confusion, vision issues or hearing issues. If you notice any of these symptoms, take your dog straight to the vet. LOW CALCIUM LEVELS Low calcium levels, or hypocalcaemia, can also lead to facial itchiness and rubbing of the face. Low calcium can occur for several medical reasons and can result in other signs such as twitching, seizures, restlessness, aggression or excessive drinking and urination. This condition must be diagnosed and monitored by a vet, and a dog with these clinical signs should be seen by a vet straight away. OTHER CAUSES SMELLS GOOD! If your dog finds something that smells good, they may just rub their face and body in it because they like it so much. The item may not have a pleasant smell to humans, but it can be great for a dog! MARKING TERRITORY Dogs can leave their scent on an item to mark their territory by urinating, defecating or simply rubbing their face or body on it. This action leaves pheromones for other dogs to detect. IT JUST FEELS GOOD! Some dogs just like the feel of different textures and fabrics, so will rub their face on them for pure pleasure. TAKE HOME MESSAGE If in doubt about the cause of your dog's face rubbing, take them to a vet as soon as you can. The cause will often not be serious, but it is always better to be safe than sorry!

Products we love Shopping fun

Walkease

We love Walkease as a joint supplement for your dogs because it is a 100% natural and biological active form of Undenatured Type II Collagen (UC-II), which promotes healthy, working joints! Did you know that UC-II is safe with no known side effects and also no evidence of causing liver or kidney dysfunction. It is also significantly more effective in reducing symptoms of joint pain than glucosamine and chondroitin combined - actually twice as effective! UC-II demonstrated a 62% reduction in overall pain at 120 days versus 24% with glucosamine and chondroitin.

PaleoPet Pure Classic Duck Meal

We love this product for so many reasons! PaleoPet Pure Duck Meal is a premium quality raw food for dogs made from only Free-Range Duck and natural ingredients. It is a balanced and complete meal, which meets all the nutritional needs of both puppies and adult dogs. PaleoPet Pure Classic Complete Meals contain 80% meat, organ meat, bone and fat and 20% veggies and fruit. A healthy dose of Omega 3 from sustainably sourced phytoplankton is added, along with Kelp and Vitamin E. The PaleoPet Pure range is Food Safety certified and DAFF registered. Meals are produced using human food grade ingredients, ensuring raw pet food that you can trust. PaleoPet Pure Classic Complete meals are available in Chicken, Chicken & Ostrich, Duck, and Beef Meals. They are available in convenient, pre-frozen 1.5kg tubs for feeding large dogs, a 1.5kg pack made up of two 750g tubs for feeding medium sized dogs or a few small dogs and a 1.2kg box of Patties with 12 individually sealed 100g portions for small and toy dogs. Tubs are re-usable, recyclable and PBA-free. Products can be purchased online at www.paleopetpure.com or at selected retailers.

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The Balanced Pet

HEALFAST THERAPY PETPATCH LOOPS Drug-free treatment for pain and swelling from sprains, strains, injuries and conditions like arthritis and hip dysplasia. Light, flexible loop antenna design with integrated push button on/off switch delivers award-winning ActiPatch shortwave therapy for your pets or horses. Therapy lasts for 720 hours and a push button on/off switch extends the life when not in use. New technology enhancements have made this product lighter and more cost-effective. The loop relieves muscle and tendon pain, and also reduces swelling and inflammation. It improves mobility, accelerates healing of wounds, incisions, and bruises. There are no contra-indications or side-effects.

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more products we love Shopping fun

NINA OTTOSSON THE ORIGINAL DESIGNER AND DEVELOPER OF DOG & CAT PUZZLE GAMES & TOYS SINCE 1990 • Nina Ottosson games and toys will exercise your dog’s mind and body. • Can help prevent and reduce behaviour problems! • Help prevent and reduce weight problems. • The games will help strengthen your bond with your dog. • Prevent boredom.

Nina Ottosson´s philosophy is that the dog has four legs and one head, and all five need activity in different ways – both physical and mental. Nina Ottosson’s range of durable interactive puzzle games have been designed to stimulate a dog’s brain whilst reinforcing his relationship with people. Each design has a unique mechanism that requires mental as well as physical dexterity to work through the challenges and reveal hidden food rewards. They can be set to differing levels of complexity, to satisfy all ages and breeds of dog. So whether you have a ‘Forrest Gump’ or an ‘Albert Einstein’, there is a Nina Ottosson game design to suit every dog!

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LIFE OF GEORGE

LIVE LIFE UNLEASHED – LESSONS FOR HUMANS TAUGHT BY DOGS HOW TO WALK YOUR HUMAN

AUTHOR: George Swainson – CEO Life of George and incredibly goodlooking black Labrador

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umans need exercise. If they don’t get out regularly, they can become irritable and so obsessed with those rectangular devices in their hands that they can’t stop tapping. It is up to us dogs to save them from themselves. Here are the steps you need to take to walk your human effectively: Firstly, you need to allow your human to tether themselves to you. This keeps them from running away or wandering off. Your human will also need regular breaks, so be sure to stop and sniff frequently. Humans have short attention spans, so make sure to bark regularly. This distracts them from their phones and keeps them focussed on the task at hand. Make sure you leave pee-mails on all relevant meeting poles and trees. If you do a ‘number 2’, be sure to have trained your human to pick up after you. Ecofriendly poop bags are a must for any walk. If necessary, attach a pouch to your lead and carry them yourself. Periodically, I encourage you to drag your human along as fast as you can - this is called interval training, and it is good to get their heart rate up. Under no circumstances allow your human to shorten your walks. They are just being lazy. If you think a shortcut is imminent, sit in protest if you must. Once you return home, allow your human to remove their tether, give you a big hug and then lick their face many times over in return. This is positive reinforcement for a job well done.

NEXT ISSUE

15TH APRIL 2022 www.dqmagazine.co.za 92

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EDITION 2022 EDITION11 10| |APRIL MARCH 2022

DQ Magazine Issue 1B

Articles inside

AskDQ?

The Dachshund Haven

Arthritis

Tears Animal Rescue

Life of George

Best twilight years

Paw pedicure

Freshen up

Body language explained

Your best breed

Adak

Puppy love

Going on ‘Sniffari’

When you see a dog in a public space

Dachshunds

Canine Enrichment