DIGITAL ISSUE 1C | 2022
SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE
Physiotherapy Underwater Treadmill Soft tissue techniques (myofascial release, massage, stretching) Therapeutic exercises Kinesiotaping Laser EMS/TENS, Stimpod Acupuncture Holistic consultations Food therapy Herbals & Homeopathy Tui-na Respiratory Physio Home exercise programs Dr Marisa Slabber BVSc, CVA, MSc, CVTP Kayla du Toit Veterinary Physiotherapist (SAVC)
contact us: 0713706668
holisticare2@gmail.com
www.holisticare.co.za
Cnr Witkoppen & The Straight Ave, Pineslopes, Fourways, Johannesburg.
Hello! Welcome to this, our third issue of DQ Magazine. We’re so pleased to have you with us and hope you’ll enjoy this edition! Thank you so much for all your feedback from our first two editions. It’s lovely to hear what you think about the title and great to get your suggestions about article topics for the future. We’ve included a couple of your suggestions in this issue and will continue to do so going forwards. If you have any more ideas for content or features we could have in the magazine, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us at info@dqmagazine.co.za Once again, we’d like to extend a massive thank you to our advertisers for their support. Without them, we wouldn’t be able to make this title free to all dog lovers across southern Africa. For more information on advertising with us, please get in touch on the email above. We’d also like to welcome all of you to follow our social media pages. You can find DQ Magazine on: Facebook
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You can also go to our website www.dqmagazine.co.za and sign up for our newsletter, where we’ll send you regular content updates (no spam – we promise!) Thanks again for your support! See you next month,
Lizzie and xxx the DQ team Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor
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Designer: Jason Crole
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DIGITAL ISSUE 1C | 2022
IN THIS ISSUE 06 Canine Enrichment Part 3
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Who let the dogs out?
Common indoor and outdoor plants Toxic to dogs
A view into the obsession known as agility
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Online resources we love
Wobblers Syndrome Understanding this devastating condition
Anything and everything by Dr Karen Becker
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Not a clean slate
Fatty tissue Lipomas in dogs
Understand the influence of a mom on her puppies
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The Bearded Collie
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Is it all in the genes?
A lifetime of friendship
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Body language explained Part 3: The tail
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The green, green grass of home Why does my dog eat grass?
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Reading labels
68 Why would you want a fitness trainer for your canine athlete? By Animal Health and Hydro
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Never to feed your dogs
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GSP Rescue South Africa Making a difference
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Understanding dog food labels
40 5 foods
Arthritis
Ask DQ Your dog questions answered
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Products we love Making a big impact on animal welfare
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FOCUS
DID YOU KNOW? Many dogs exhibit ‘handedness’, a tendency to use a certain paw more often than another.
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D O G S AT P L AY TEXT: SARAH WANLESS
PART 3
CANINE ENRICHMENT
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his month's enrichment idea is for those dogs that LOVE to chase. Do you have a herding breed or a high drive dog? Or are you just looking for a fun way to help your dog get rid of their energy? Then the flirt pole is for you!
WHAT IS A FLIRT POLE? A flirt pole is like a giant cat toy, but for your dog. It consists of a durable pole with a toy/lure attached to the end of a long rope (if you know horses, think of a lunge line with a toy at the end). In theory, it's quite a simple toy, as all you do is hold the pole and move the lure around DQ|1C
you and entice the dog to chase it. However, these poles and the activity they provoke can be both physically and mentally stimulating for your pooch.
INTERESTING… For many herding dogs who like to control movement (stalking and chasing the lure), you'll find that this activity is highly rewarding, and they often won't take food rewards from you as the activity itself is reward enough.
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WHY DO WE LIKE IT SO MUCH? The flirt pole: • allows the dog to engage their prey/chase drive in a safe and constructive way • provides a great way to help your dog work on their impulse control • works as an all-around great way to help you keep up with your high-energy dog while they do all the work. Depending on how fast you move the lure, this can be an extremely tiring exercise for your dog. It is also a high-impact activity, so we do need to be careful to start quite slowly with the lure initially and also work our way up in terms of the duration of the session. This is not a good activity for young puppies or dogs with arthritis or mobility issues.
THE EXERCISE Start by finding a nice, big, open space where you and your dog can move around freely. It's a good idea to have some rules in place before you start playing with your flirt pole "sit", "down", "drop it", and "wait" are all foundational skills to have in place. Ask your dog to "sit" or "down" and ask them to "wait" as you move the lure around. When you are ready to 'release your dog', you can give them the "get it" command. It's up to you how long you drag the toy around until your pup 'gets it', but it is important that they catch it frequently, as catching the lure is the reward. Remember to keep the lure running along the ground, not across any difficult terrain or in the air, to avoid injuries to yourself and the dog.
MAKE A FLIRT POLE You can purchase a readily assembled flirt pole (we recommend the Outward Hound brand), or you can make your own with a piece of PVC piping, bungee cord or rope and a dog toy of your choice (pick one you know your dog likes). To make your own: 1. Buy a piece of PVC piping (approximately 1.6-1.8 meters long) and a piece of rope/ bungee cord (approximately 3-4m in length) - remember you want to keep the dog close. 2. A dog toy of your choice. 3. Thread the rope through the pipe and tie a knot at either end of the pipe to keep the rope from sliding in and out. 4. Tie a toy to the end of the rope.
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BENTLEY – A FLIRT POLE EXPERT We own a rescue Border Collie, Bentley, who has herding instinct, and energy, in spades. If left unattended he will herd dogs in the park, irrespective of their size – yes, he has tried his luck with a Great Dane before. He also loves to play fetch (this has to do with his instinct to control movement). Since incorporating the flirt pole (we got the Outward Hound one from Canine and Co) into our training I have noticed a massive improvement in his impulse control as well as his ability to listen to me during exciting situations. It has also been a great tool to have during this recent wet summer, where we haven’t necessarily been able to get out and about as much as I would have liked (don’t get me wrong, we still walk in the rain). He has a pre-existing hind leg injury so I was very careful to start slowly and build up the duration, and keep the sessions relatively short so as not to exacerbate the old injury, but so far, so good! For more info on Bentley and his sister Shelby follow them on Instagram @pandapuppers
When your pup catches the lure, let them enjoy it a little by letting them have a chew and enjoying their victory. Just also be careful not to let the game deteriorate into a tug-of-war when you retrieve the lure to start again. If you have a well established "drop it" cue, ask your dog to "drop it", ask for the "sit"/"down" and "wait" and then start all over again! Once you have progressed and your dog is becoming a pro at playing with the flirt pole you can make the "wait" harder by increasing the speed and proximity of the lure to them. You can also add more difficulty by waiting for the behaviour you want once they have caught it, such as waiting for them to sit and drop the toy automatically. As all dogs are different, it is important to learn what part of the game your dog loves the most. Does he enjoy the stalk and anticipating which way the toy is going to go? Or is it the chase, where your dog is actively chasing
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down the lure? Or is it catching the lure and having it in their possession? Knowing which part of the 'hunt' sequence your dog enjoys best helps you both get the most out of the activity.
FINAL THOUGHTS Playing with a flirt pole is a great way to help your dog get rid of their energy as well as reinforce some vital obedience cues, such as "sit", "down", "wait", and "drop it" in high energy situations. As previously mentioned, it also helps your dog to learn impulse control, as they need to wait for your cue and learn to focus on you despite the excitement and distraction of the flirt pole. When your dog's impulse control is more refined, you will find you can be more confident in their ability to heed cues in busy, exciting or potentially dangerous situations.
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A VIEW INTO THE OBSESSION KNOWN AS AGILITY
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D O G S AT P L AY TEXT: JANDI DU TOIT PHOTOGRAPHY: BRAAM GOUWS
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ou might have seen them on television or perhaps you have noticed them at your local dog park… Maybe you heard them on the field across from your house, or perhaps when waking at the crack of dawn one Sunday morning you saw a unique team that caught your eye… Who am I referring to? Quite simply: Agili-junkies. What is an Agili-junkie you might ask? Agili-junkie (noun) – A person who is obsessed and/or addicted to watching and/or doing dog agility.
AGILITY Agility is the fast paced and super exciting sport where dogs are expected to navigate a variety of obstacles. Sounds easy enough, right? Here comes the curveball - the dogs must run at a specific speed and tackle the obstacles in the correct numerical order and from the right direction! One of the main dog sport affiliations in the country is SADAA, the South African Dog Agility Association. SADAA is a national affiliation where dogs of all breeds and sizes (yes, truly, from a Yorkie to a Great Dane) can compete. SADAA has clubs in five provinces across the country and each province has a Regional Trial once a year where handlers and dogs from all over come to compete against each other. INTERESTING, BUT HOW DO YOU GET STARTED? It is best to start your dog’s agility training as soon as possible, but they can only compete when they are 18 months old. Agility consists of two sections - Contact Agility, where dogs are required to jump, move through DQ|1C
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REMEMBER Agility is a team sport. Without guidance from his handler, a dog doesn’t know which obstacle to take next while running around the course. Your agility dog must learn to focus on you despite distractions and exciting surroundings. tunnels and run up and down the three contact equipment pieces, namely a dog-walk, A-frame and seesaw. The second competition section is Jumping. This is also referred to as Non-contact Agility. The same principles of Agility apply to this section except the contact equipment does not form part of a jumping course. Courses usually contain around 15 or so obstacles, including tunnels, jumps, and weave poles, which the dog must complete in a predetermined pattern. You can teach a lot of these skills to your dog at home or you can join a club where you will further develop your skills with assistance from others.
WHEN CAN I COMPETE? Preparing your dog to compete successfully will take a little longer than the just learning to do the obstacles. It is essential for Agility that your dog is fully socialised and that you have effective control at all times, especially as your dog will be competing off lead.
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Once you start competing in agility it can become addictive. Shows are held almost every weekend, giving you the opportunity to compete regularly and meet like-minded people. Agility training is an excellent way to build the bond between you and your dog; you have to develop a clear line of communication with your dog in order to successfully navigate a course. You and your dog learn how to be in sync. This feeling, once experienced, is something you can’t get enough of!
READY TO GIVE IT A GO? Take a look at the SADAA Facebook and Instagram page or get in touch with the Regional Director in your province. They will be able to provide you with information about clubs, trainers and importantly, shows! Whether you compete with the goal of making the national team, or you simply run for the fun, follow the words of Kathleen Highfill: “Run the course like each one is your last. Make it a run that leaves you smiling, if not laughing aloud for the joy of the sport. Otherwise, you will have missed the most important thing in agility - the love and companionship of a trusted, loyal and loving canine partner.” And just like that, before you know it, you may also be proud to call yourself an Agili-junkie!
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D O G S AT H O M E
ONLINE RESOURCES WE LOVE ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING BY DR KAREN BECKER
D
r Karen Becker, Co-Author of the Forever Dog (a mustread for all you dog parents who want to know how to increase their dogs' longevity in simple, easy to implement ways – yes, we believe that that is every one of you!) is a holistic veterinarian focusing on improving the overall wellness of pets. Her primary focus is on implementing easy, manageable lifestyle choices that help improve your pets' wellbeing. She is the most followed veterinarian globally, thanks to her common-sense, proactive approach to creating and maintaining health and wellbeing in companion animals worldwide. Dr Becker received her degree in veterinary medicine from Iowa State School of Veterinary Medicine. She proceeded MORE INFO Dr Becker has a multitude of social media platforms, including YouTube, Facebook, Instagram and a website where you can follow her for valuable tips and tricks on how you can proactively help your dog be the healthiest version of themselves: https://www.drkarenbecker.com/ https://foreverdog.com/ https://www.facebook.com/doctor.karen.becker https://www.instagram.com/drkarenbecker/?hl=en
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to complete her exotic animal internships in California and at the Berlin Zoo in Germany. She is certified in animal acupuncture, homoeopathy and rehabilitation (physical therapy for pets). She has founded several animal hospitals across the United States, the most notable of which is her Proactive Veterinary Medicine Hospital (one of the main reasons for her immense following). Proactive Veterinary Medicine focuses on preventing illness and disease through the creation of health through making wise lifestyle choices for your pet throughout their lifetime. This novel approach combines Wellness Veterinary Medicine to customise a lifestyle for your animal that allows them to live their best health lifestyle, often reducing age-related deterioration while promoting an ongoing state of wellbeing, increasing quality of life and often extending lifespan. Her focus is on her belief that the foundation of good health and longevity is species-appropriate nutrition and an active lifestyle. Much like in human health, she prioritises moving more, eating better and eating fresh foods for improved longevity for our dogs. One of the most wonderful things about her approach to promoting these key concepts is inclusivity. She understands that not everyone can afford to feed premium diets and provides tips to everyone to help improve their dog's diet.
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FOCUS
DID YOU KNOW? Though breed size varies widely, all dog breeds have similar sized eyes. This is why smaller breeds appear to have larger eyes (like this pug).
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NOT A CLEAN SLATE UNDERSTAND THE INFLUENCE OF A MOM ON HER PUPPIES
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t is commonly believed that a puppy offers a 'clean slate' upon which to place your influence as a dog owner, and, while this may be true to some extent, it is crucial to realise the heavy influence the mother of your pup will have had prior to your taking your new canine companion home. Here we discuss the role of the mother and her impact.
THE BITCH Your puppy's mother has a massive influence on your future dog's behaviour and temperament. The father's traits, of course, are also part of the mix, but studies have agreed that the mother's temperament is 80% of everything! Why is this? IN UTERO The hormones produced while the pup is still in the womb influence the neural pathways of the puppies. Many bitches found on the streets and taken into rescue when pregnant will produce stressed puppies. This will affect the puppies' ability to cope with new situations throughout the course of their lives simply because their mother was stressed during pregnancy.
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BEHAVIOUR AFTER BIRTH Then, critically, the mother's behaviour is the first behaviour your puppy will observe and thereby learn from. If the mother is fearful and wary, her puppies will follow suit. Even if your puppy isn't showing signs of these traits when you first take them home, they will usually be showing them by the time they are 16 weeks of age. Although it is tempting as owners to believe that because the puppies are so young, they will 'grow out' of the tendency, this simply is not the case. The behaviour they learn from their mother is so strongly imprinted on them and their neurological systems that these behaviours will always emerge in certain situations. There are ways to improve upon and manage these issues, but the default patterns will never be entirely forgotten, or 'fixed'. In summary, these issues are very hard work to manage and improve, and even the most skilled trainers will not be able to eradicate these behaviours from your dog's behavioural repertoire permanently. Simply put – if the mom isn't what you are looking for in a dog, then don't take one of her puppies home with you. DQ|1C
A CAVEAT It is also worth bearing in mind that every human has a slightly different personality. This means that a bitch that suits your tastes in personality may not suit everyone and that just because a bitch isn't right for you doesn't mean her puppies are destined to remain with her forever. Make the best choice for yourself and your family, and you'll reap the rewards later on.
TAKE HOME MESSAGE Of course, even if the mother seems to be a perfect fit, issues can arise with the puppy you choose. There is no absolute fail-safe method for choosing the right dog. Yet being informed on what to look out for can help you avoid the more obvious errors and increase the chance of a successful pairing for both you and your new puppy.
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BREED PROFILE
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BREED PROFILE
TEXT: EILEEN ASHTON
The Bearded Collie A LIFETIME OF FRIENDSHIP
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BREED PROFILE
A BUYERS’ GUIDE TO THE BEARDED COLLIE Place of origin: Scotland Function: Sheepdog and drover of cattle Availability: Not readily; a waiting period is generally required Average Life span: 13 years Guard dog: No, but will give a good bark Family dog: Yes Other pets: Generally very good Grooming: High maintenance Shedding: Minimal Exercise: Needs exercise and stimulation or will become bored Outside dog: Beardies enjoy daytime exercise and play but are happiest when they are with their owners, so they need to sleep indoors. Townhouse dog: Yes, provided there are daily walks, exercise and stimulation Health Issues: Hip dysplasia; autoimmune diseases; Collie Eye Analomy (CEA) Character sketch: Clowns with big hearts
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WHAT IS A BEARDIE? The Bearded Collie is a medium-sized Scottish herding dog with a long, shaggy coat and an exuberant, intelligent personality. Nowadays, most Beardies are pets, but they are still used for herding in Britain and Europe, as their working style is particularly suited to cattle and hill sheep. Beardies can be found in four colours (slate, blue, brown and fawn), with or without white markings. All colours fade as the dog matures and then return to a darker shade at around three years of age. A Beardie has a well angulated, natural body shape and moderate bone underneath the double coat. The outer coat has a somewhat harsh texture whilst the dense undercoat is soft; this would protect him from the elements if he was working all day. They are a medium-size breed with size at the withers of around 51 to 56 cm for males and 51 to 53 cm for females. DQ|1C
BREED PROFILE
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BREED PROFILE
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BREED PROFILE
BEARDIE TEMPERAMENT Beardies appeal to those owners who enjoy an intelligent, responsive and energetic dog. They are self-confident, boisterous, agile and easily bored. They thrive on human companionship and can become destructive if left alone all day. Whilst not a natural guard dog, they are known to give a good bark and are protective of their people! Generally, they love children and other animals, but as herding dogs, they may chase and nip when excited, so play with very young children should be supervised. They also have lots of hair that young children may pull at, which is unfair for any dog. The breed is very trainable, and indeed they are most versatile and compete in many disciplines, including agility, herding, and obedience. They do not respond well to harsh training methods, being very sensitive to human moods and behaviour inconsistencies. Firm, consistent and kind, reward-based training with clear communication will result in a very engaging and amenable companion. As lateral thinkers, they will not always be predictable and programmable, and a sense of humour is recommended for any Beardie owner! It is safe to say that once discovered, there will always be space for a Beardie at your side and in your heart.
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LIVING WITH A BEARDIE Their characteristics and degree of intuition are almost human. Indeed, sometimes, they really do know best! Notwithstanding this, they are not for everyone, and it is advised that a prospective new owner consider the following: Answer the following questions before you consider a Beardie: • Am I prepared to have muddy feet through unrestricted areas of my house? • Do I want an indoor dog that will be integrated as a family member? • Am I prepared to take a Beardie for basic obedience training and ensure that he is stimulated with regular exercise and play? • Am I prepared for at least one hour a week of grooming, or at the very least a 10 minute a day tidy up? The breed is not low maintenance. The coat changes continually in both colour and texture up until about three years of age, and age determines the time needed to invest in grooming to ensure that the coat remains matt free. A Beardie should not be shaved to the skin at any age; the coat has a purpose, insulating the skin against harsh temperatures.
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BODY LANGUAGE EXPLAINED PART 3: THE HAIR
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hen your dog is angry or feeling threatened, you might notice all the hairs on the back of his neck stand up. These hairs form what is known as your dog’s hackles. Each hair has a tiny muscle, and when the dog’s fight or flight response is triggered, chemicals flood the body, causing these muscles to pull tight, lifting the hair up. The hackles form part of an ancient defence mechanism that makes dogs look bigger and more frightening than they really are.
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Seeing the hackles go up on your dog is a warning that they are feeling uncomfortable or threatened. It is an automatic response, a lot like when we get goosebumps, so it isn’t something they can control consciously, and they are certainly not ‘trying to be aggressive’. Do not get cross with your dog when their hackles go up, and remember that the bottom line still is that most dogs would rather run away than get into a fight. The best thing you can do in these instances is to reassure your dog that everything is okay and endeavour to remove them from the situation calmly.
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DOG NUTRITION
MAKE YOUR OWN FRESH BREATH TREATS Fancy making your dog a treat that not only tastes delicious for him, but helps to freshen his breath? Look no further than this simple recipe!
YOU WILL NEED 1 cup kefir or Greek yoghurt ½ cup mint ½ cup parsley TO MAKE Blend together, spoon into ice cube moulds and freeze!
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Looking for the
best
physiotherapy team for your pet? www.ahah.co.za 083 230 2188 Benoni 074 251 4410 Pretoria East
DOG NUTRITION
THE GREEN, GREEN GRASS OF HOME WHY DOES MY DOG EAT GRASS?
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NUTRITION
M
ost dog owners will have seen their canines consuming grass at some point. In fact, it is believed that the majority of dogs eat grass most days. The most popular grass our dogs seek out is Elymus Repens, commonly known as Couch or Dog Grass. The new shoots in spring are tender, moist and sweet with naturally occurring sugars. However, as the grass matures, it can become rough with tiny barbs, which you can feel if you run your fingers down the middle and outer edges.
A SOURCE OF MOISTURE Some dogs, particularly those on a dry food diet, will eat grass in search of additional moisture. They acquire this moisture from the leaves or roots of the grasses or even from the dew that lies on the grass in the morning. A SOURCE OF FIBRE Fresh grasses are abundant in a variety of dietary fibres, which are needed to keep the gut moving, and the gut DQ|1C
microbes healthy. If you feel your dog is overeating grass, it may signify that he needs more fibre in his diet. In this case, try adding a few steamed vegetables to the food. Alternatively, you can blitz raw vegetables in the blender and add this to his meals. Safe vegetables include broccoli, spinach, courgette, kale and parsley. This additional fibre in the diet will often stop the desire to consume large quantities of grass in just a few days.
A SOURCE OF NUTRIENTS Grasses do not offer a large number of nutrients for dogs, but they do provide a certain amount of vitamin A, B, iron, fibre and silica. It is thought that when dogs crave these vitamins and minerals they eat more grass. WHEN TO INVESTIGATE FURTHER The majority of dogs will eat grass most days and seem to enjoy the experience. They will do this despite a good balanced diet, and never have any adverse effects.
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DID YOU KNOW? Wolves and wild canines hunt and kill herbivores to consume not only the meat but also the contents of the stomach, which is usually partially digested grasses, herbs and other roughage. This provides welcome moisture, fibre and enzymes to help digest a heavy, meat-rich meal. However, there are certain circumstances where further investigation is necessary. Some dogs actively seek out certain grasses to induce vomiting. In this case, you may notice the dog drooling, licking their lips, swallowing hard and rushing outside to eat grass. This tends to be a more rapid, frantic grabbing of the grass rather than slow, selective grazing. After vomiting has occurred, there may be temporary relief of nausea, reflux or easing of stomach irritation. Most of us will have seen our dogs do this at some stage, as a once-off, and they seem to be totally unaffected afterwards and back to their usual selves within minutes. However, if your dog is regularly eating large volumes of grass, particularly after their meals and then vomiting, there could be an underlying health issue that needs
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investigating by your vet. For example, some dogs may induce vomiting after meals to re-eat the regurgitated food, as they cannot absorb nutrients the first time round and need to re-ingest the stomach contents to make them more digestible. Eating a large amount of coarse grass that cannot be digested will cause stomach irritation, add volume and bulk to the stools, and be passed out of the rectum almost intact. Dogs can exhibit this behaviour when they have a high worm burden, as this encourages the elimination of parasites. It is essential to carry out a faecal worm count to establish if this is actually the cause. You will need to speak to your vet to arrange this.
TAKE-HOME MESSAGE Most of the time, eating grass is a pleasurable pastime for your pooch. However, there are situations where the habit may warrant a visit to the vet. Keeping tabs on how and when your dog eats grass should give you a pretty good idea about whether or not you need to seek veterinary attention. DQ|1C
HEAD TO TAIL
NATURAL NUTRITION from Biologically Appropriate Raw Food
Better cognitive function from added Omega 3 Shiny coat & healthy Fresh breath & skin from natural fats A happy, stronger, whiter healthy hound teeth from natural that loves their calcium Real food means food! improved digestion for sensitive Smaller poops tummies from maximum absorption of nutrients
Allergy relief from single source protein
Optimal lean body mass from high quality, unprocessed animal protein
Natural Glucosamine for joint mobility
PaleoPet Pure Balanced & Complete Raw Meals are formulated naturally to meet every dog & cats’ total nutritional needs. Conveniently prepared & packaged. Made from premium, human food grade ingredients & manufactured in a FCS Food Safety compliant facility for quality you can trust. 100% Natural Ingredients. No Preservatives. No Additives. No Colourants & No Flavourants. www.paleopetpure.com
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READING LABELS
UNDERSTANDING DOG FOOD LABELS
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DOG NUTRITION
D
og food labels can create confusion for owners looking to understand what they need to feed their canine companion. In this article, we will focus on how to use the information available to ensure that your dog is getting all they need from their diet.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF FEED A 'complementary' dog food is exactly what it says, in that it supplements the diet but does not provide a full and complete balanced diet. On the other hand, a 'complete' feed should contain all of the essential nutrients at levels that meet the dog's requirements. With complete feeds, if the dog eats the right amount for their energy requirements, their nutritional requirements for all other nutrients will also be met. NOTE: Some 'complete' feeds will be labelled as 'Complete and Balanced for All Life-Stages'. In essence, this means that the food is suitable for phases of growth,
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as well as for adult and senior dogs. This is a tricky claim for a food company to make and should make owners wary. There are huge differences between the needs of a puppy and the needs of a senior dog, and one food that can meet them all is difficult to conceive of. For this reason, most of the leading dog food brands now offer a range of foods aimed at different age groups and different activity levels, e.g., puppy food (growth), adult food (maintenance), less active (weight control), or a senior diet (reduced calories with more fibre) etc. This targeted approach is a better option in most cases than a one-size-fits-all food.
INGREDIENTS The ingredients list alone should not be used to decide whether a particular dog food is the best option for your dog. There are two main reasons why: • The ingredients list places everything in order of weight, so the ingredient present in the largest amount should come first on the list. Based on this it is then easy to
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think that if meat is listed as the first ingredient, the food is a good option. However, seeing meat at the top of the list simply means that the main component of the food is meat, but does not consider the quality of the ingredients. Individual ingredients vary significantly in protein quality (whether the complete range of essential amino acids is present) and their digestibility. Suppose we were to compare a premium brand with a budget brand that contains poor quality ingredients with low digestibility - the ingredients list could look the same, despite a vast difference in the food quality. • The way certain ingredients are presented can be misleading. Manufacturers may split up different forms of similar ingredients so that they are listed separately on the label and appear further down the list. For example, the overall wheat content may appear lower if it is split into wheat flour, ground wheat and wheat bran etc. If these were listed as one entity, then wheat would contribute a large proportion of the food, which may not be a desirable option.
COMPARING FEEDS Things become a bit confusing when you try to compare feeds because the 'as fed' percentages of protein, fat, fibre and ash do not consider the food's moisture content. We need to convert these 'as-fed' values to a dry matter value to be able to compare feeds accurately. This is especially important if we want to compare, for example, the percentage of protein in a dry food with the percentage in a wet food. To do this, there are two steps, which involve a bit of maths. STEP 1 – WORK OUT HOW MUCH DRY MATTER IS PRESENT The first part of the calculation is simple and relies on subtracting the percentage moisture from 100 to give the percentage dry matter. For example, in wet foods, the label may state 25% moisture, meaning that there is 75% dry matter. In dry foods, the label may state 10% moisture, meaning that the product is 90% dry matter.
CARBOHYDRATE One thing that manufacturers do not necessarily show is the amount of carbohydrate present in the food. They will usually only state the crude percentages for fat, protein, ash, fibre, and moisture. To work out the carbohydrate percentage, simply add all these other numbers up and take them away from 100. What is left is the percentage of carbohydrate in the product. This can then be converted to a dry matter basis as per the calculation above.
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STEP 2 – CALCULATE To proceed, you then divide the percentage of nutrient stated on the pack (as-fed) by the percentage of dry matter. You then multiply your answer by 100 to give the percentage of that nutrient on a dry matter basis. For example, to work out the percentage of protein: If a dry food contains 10% moisture and 25% protein (as-fed) • This means that the product has 90% dry matter: 25 divided by 90 = 0.28 • 0.28 x 100 = 28% protein on a dry matter basis If a wet food contains 25% moisture and 25% protein (as-fed) • This means the product has 75% dry matter: 25 divided by 75 = 0.33 • 0.33 x 100 = 33% protein on a dry matter basis We can, therefore, now compare the wet and dry foods, which initially looked to have the same percentage of protein. In reality, the calculations show that the wet food contains more protein (33% versus 28%).
WORKING OUT NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS By law, packaging has to guide how much to feed, but this is simply a guide and usually takes no account of age or activity levels. We can work out our dog's energy requirements using some more simple maths to get around this. If the food is a complete food, it will have been designed to ensure that all other nutrient requirements are met if energy levels are met, so we only need to work out the energy requirements. For active adult dogs: • Energy needed (calories) = 130 x weight (in kg) THEN multiply by 0.75 For inactive adult dogs: • Energy needed (calories) = 95 x weight (in kg) THEN multiply by 0.75 The packaging may not tell us how much energy (calories) there is in 100g of the product, so we need to know this to work out how much to feed. If you have already changed
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the 'as-fed' percentages of protein, fat and carbohydrate into their percentage on a dry matter basis, then you have already done most of the work. It is the protein, fat and carbohydrate which provide energy (calories). Every gram of carbohydrate present in the product will give 3.5 calories. Each gram of fat will provide 8.5 calories, and each gram of protein will provide 3.5 calories. Then all we have to do is multiply as follows: • Percentage protein on dry matter basis x 3.5 • Percentage fat on a dry matter basis x 8.5 • Percentage carbohydrate on a dry matter basis x 3.5 Add these up to know how many calories are in 100g of the food. From this, you can work out how many grams to feed according to their energy requirements.
TAKE-HOME MESSAGE While the maths can be a little off-putting, the bottom line is that these calculations will ensure that you choose the best food option that works for the age and activity level of the dog. It's great to know that your decision is based on real facts rather than simply the marketing claims of the product.
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FOCUS
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. – Ambrose Bierce
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D O G H E A LT H
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TEXT: SARAH WANLESS
FOODS NEVER TO FEED YOUR DOGS
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ogs are natural scavengers, and you don’t need to live with one long before you realise that they will take any opportunity to sneak a mouthful of whatever is available. While there is a long list of everyday human foods that are fine for dogs, the following five foods should be avoided at all costs. Disclaimer: This list below is by no means definitive, and you should always do your research or contact your vet before giving your dog human foods!
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GRAPES AND RAISINS No form of grapes (seedless, peeled, or dried (grapes and sultanas)) is suitable for your dog to consume in any amounts. Grapes are toxic to dogs and can result in acute renal failure. Unfortunately, very little is known about why grapes are so toxic to dogs or what makes some dogs more susceptible than others. Regardless of the quantity ingested, it is always recommended that you call your vet immediately if your dog has ingested grapes.
CHOCOLATE As much as we all love a bit of chocolate (and our dogs might, too), it doesn’t love them. Chocolate is, unfortunately, poisonous to dogs, and if your dog ingests chocolate, you need to call the vet immediately. The component of chocolate that makes it poisonous to dogs is called theobromine. While humans can ingest theobromine fairly easily, it takes a lot longer for dogs to metabolise it, thus allowing it to build up to toxic levels in their system. The amount of theobromine is influenced by the type of chocolate, so cooking chocolate, drinking cocoa and dark chocolate have higher amounts of theobromine (and are therefore worse for your dog) than milk chocolate.
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D O G H E A LT H
ONION You might wonder what dog would eat onion, but there are many fluffy hoovers out there who might gobble some up off the floor or potentially ingest it cooked into delicious food (like mince). Onions contain a toxic compound called N-propyl-disulfide, which damages the red blood cells, which carry oxygen around the body. The ingestion of onion can therefore lead to life-threatening anaemia. All parts of the onion and in all forms (raw, cooked, powdered and pickled) are problematic to dogs, and all it takes is 100g of onion per 20kg of a dog’s weight to cause toxic effects.
XYLITOL (AKA BIRCH SUGAR) In recent years, thanks to diet culture, xylitol has become increasingly popular in households as a sugar substitute and has increased the number of cases of canine xylitol poisoning. While this doesn’t happen in humans, when your dog ingests xylitol, it is very quickly absorbed into the bloodstream, resulting in a massive insulin release, and subsequent drop, in your dog’s blood sugar (hypoglycemia). Left untreated, this drop in blood sugar can be life-threatening and result in liver failure. Please check the ingredients of any foods that you may share with your dogs, such as any sugar-free snack or peanut butter for xylitol, before feeding it to them.
CAFFEINE As enjoyable as a cup of tea or coffee is for us, the same can’t be said for our pets, and this is due to the caffeine content. Caffeine has a similar effect on our pets as it does on us, but due to their relatively smaller size, they need to ingest a lot less of it to cause issues.
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D O G H E A LT H
Common indoor and outdoor plants TOXIC TO DOGS
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IMPORTANT!
Please note that this list is not exhaustive, so if your dog has eaten something they shouldn't, contact your vet immediately!
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ften as a dog owner, it feels like you can't turn your back for a minute without them eating/chewing something they shouldn't. Unfortunately, plants are one target of our dogs' attention, and they can carry hidden risks within their attractive exteriors. Here we've rounded up a handy list of indoor and outdoor plants that are dangerous, poisonous or toxic to dogs. If your dog ever ingests a plant on this list or experiences adverse effects after eating another plant, contact your vet as soon as possible. It's also important to inform the vet which plant your pet has consumed. Bring the plant along to show your vet if you don't know the name. ARUM LILY HARMFUL PART: The whole plant. MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Oral irritation • Pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips • Drooling • Vomiting • Difficulty swallowing
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AZALEA HARMFUL PART: Leaves MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic, as it contains grayanotoxins which are toxic to the cardiac muscle and the skeletal system. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Diarrhoea • Drooling • Weakness • Coma • Hypotension • Central Nervous System depression • Cardiovascular collapse and death
STRELITZIA HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Nausea • Vomiting • Drowsiness • Difficulty breathing • Loss of appetite • Death
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RUBBER PLANTS HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: It's not well understood what makes these plants toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Diarrhoea • Poor coordination
GERANIUMS HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Anorexia • Depression • Dermatitis
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OLEANDER HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Diarrhoea • Heart issues • Blood pressure issues • Lethargy • Depression • Tremors • Seizures • Dehydration • Shock • Death
LILY OF THE VALLEY HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Irregular heartbeat • Low blood pressure • Disorientation • Coma • Seizures • Death
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IRISES HARMFUL PART: Entire plant but especially the bulb MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Salivation • Vomiting • Drooling • Lethargy • Diarrhoea
HYACINTH HARMFUL PART: Bulbs MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Intense vomiting • Diarrhoea (sometimes bloody) • Depressions • Tremors
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CHRYSANTHEMUMS HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Hypersalivation • Diarrhoea • Loss of coordination • Dermatitis
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CLIVIAS HARMFUL PART: Bulbs MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Drooling • Diarrhoea • Low blood pressure • Convulsions • Tremors • Heart rhythm problems
CYCAD HARMFUL PART: Entire plant, especially the seeds MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: When the seeds are ingested they cause: • Gastrointestinal issues (vomiting and diarrhoea may be bloody) • Neurological issues Untreated cycad seed poisoning leads to liver failure and ultimately causes death.
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TULIPS HARMFUL PART: Bulbs MECHANISM OF POISONING: The bulbs must be ingested to be toxic. SYMPTOMS: • Extreme digestive irritation • Loss of appetite • Convulsions • Heart abnormalities DAFFODIL HARMFUL PART: Entire plant MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic, although with smaller dogs issues have been reported with something as simple as dogs drinking the water the daffodils were kept in. SYMPTOMS: • Stomach cramps • Low blood pressure • Drooling • Tremors • Vomiting • Diarrhoea • Heart rhythm problems
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HYDRANGEA HARMFUL PART: Bulbs and flowers MECHANISM OF POISONING: The plant must be ingested to be toxic. The flowers of these plants are broken down in the stomach to produce cyanide. SYMPTOMS: • Vomiting • Diarrhoea • Depression
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D O G H E A LT H
WOBBLERS SYNDROME UNDERSTANDING THIS DEVASTATING CONDITION
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ervical Spondylomyelopathy, commonly known as Wobblers Syndrome, is a neurological condition predominantly affecting large and giant breed dogs, like Great Danes and Dobermans. The disease affects the neck region and creates a characteristic wobbly walk, especially in the hind limbs. The disease is unfortunately degenerative and, therefore, progresses with time.
WHAT IS WOBBLERS SYNDROME? Wobblers Syndrome results from a malformation in the cervical vertebrae in the neck, leading to intervertebral disc protrusion and degeneration. These discs then compress the spinal cord, interrupting neurological communication between the brain and the body, resulting in neurological effects and pain. The majority of affected dogs show signs of spinal cord compression as young to middle-aged adults, but in dogs with severe deformities, the problems develop when they are immature (five to ten months old). The exact cause of Wobblers is not entirely understood. However, the high incidence in certain dog breeds suggests a sizeable genetic component.
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Diseases with a similar clinical presentation to Wobblers Syndrome include: • Spinal fractures • Tumours of the spinal cord • Congenital abnormalities • Clotting disorders • Metabolic diseases (like hypothyroid and Cushing’s Disease) • Meningitis • Parasitic infections
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Doberman Pinschers are particularly vulnerable to Wobblers Syndrome.
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D O G H E A LT H
SIGNS OF WOBBLERS SYNDROME Clinical signs in dogs with Wobblers Syndrome are progressive and can take months or even years to develop/ show, but they may also appear suddenly after a traumatic episode or very strenuous exercise. The clinical signs seen will vary according to the severity and duration of spinal cord compression. Signs of the disease include: • Weakness and uncoordinated gait (known as ataxia), usually first seen in the hind limbs. • Lameness/stiffness in the front limbs • Wide limb stance • Muscle wasting in the pelvis and shoulders • Worn toenails from the dog dragging their feet • Stumbling • Difficulty climbing steps
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DID YOU KNOW?
Physiotherapy may contribute to maintaining muscle mass and speeding recovery in mildly affected dogs.
• Difficulty getting up from lying down • Neck pain and/or stiffness and/or spasms with reluctance to raise or lower the head • Partial or complete paralysis
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DIAGNOSIS After a full examination by your vet, including a neurological exam, your dog will likely need: • An MRI scan to examine the spinal cord and discs between the cervical vertebrae. • A CT scan to look at the shape of the bones of the vertebral column. In some instances, myelography may be performed, where a small volume of a dye (contrast agent) is injected around the spinal cord to see if the flow of dye is interrupted due to the pressure on the spinal cord. • In some dogs, extra tests such as blood tests or spinal fluid collection may be indicated to help confirm the diagnosis.
TREATMENT The treatment for Wobblers Syndrome is determined on a case-by-case basis. NON-SURGICAL MANAGEMENT Non-surgical management may allow some stabilisation of the condition, at least in the short term. It is only recommended for dogs with mild pathology (minor disc bulges) and very slow disease progression. The following non-surgical treatments are available: • E xercise modification – absolute rest in the short-term and modified exercise in the long-term such as avoiding jumping or climbing the stairs. • Harness walks • Anti-inflammatory medication • Physical therapies – massage, physio, laser. • Hydrotherapy
The first imaging before embarking on more costly MRIs and CTs is likely to be a simple X-Ray. An X-Ray is of limited use, however, as it does not show the intervertebral discs or spinal cord.
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SURGICAL MANAGEMENT The aim of the surgery performed is to relieve the compression of the spinal cord. There are a variety of techniques used to achieve this, and the specific surgery that is right for your dog will be discussed with you by your veterinary surgeon. After surgery, activity restriction must be complete and consistent for at least 2-3 months following the procedure in order to facilitate fusion of the involved cervical segments. PROGNOSIS The outlook for dogs with Wobblers Syndrome is very variable and really depends on the individual case. In severe cases that are managed conservatively (i.e. without surgery) the progressive spinal cord compression usually results in a deterioration in strength and coordination, leaving some of the dogs completely paralysed. The progression in these cases may be gradual or acute.
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In milder cases, conservative management and structured rehab can be very effective in staving off further degeneration. However, these dogs treated medically will need management for the rest of their lives, and their treatments will change according to their symptoms. In surgical cases, the success rate depends on the nature of the compression, the number of areas of compression and whether or not the compressions respond to traction (stretching). Your vet will be best able to advise you on the situation with your dog. NOTE: As the spinal cord compression has likely been present for some time in most dogs affected by Wobblers Syndrome, a degree of weakness and incoordination is likely to persist even after surgery.
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DIGITAL ISSUE 158C | 2022
SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER EQUESTRIAN MAGAZINE
DIGITAL ISSUE 158C | 2022
SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER EQUESTRIAN MAGAZINE
D O G H E A LT H
FATTY TISSUE LIPOMAS IN DOGS
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any of us will have come across lumps and bumps on our dogs that have been the cause of great concern. We always tend to expect the worst in these scenarios, and cancer is always a very real concern when it comes to our pets. Thankfully, one of the more common lumps and bumps in dogs are the non-cancerous lesions called lipomas. So, what are these lesions, and when do they cause issues?
WHAT IS A LIPOMA? A lipoma is a benign or non-cancerous tumour of fat cells often found on your middle-aged or older dogs and either located inside or outside of the body. They are commonly found under the skin on the abdomen, chest or legs, although they can be found anywhere on or in the dog’s body.
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They may or may not cause discomfort for your dog, depending on where they are situated and whether they interfere with the animal’s daily life, mainly in terms of their mobility. Should the lipoma grow between the layers of muscle, it is referred to as an infiltrative lipoma, and if fastgrowing, it can affect blood supply and cause pain.
PREDISPOSING FACTORS The condition is generally most likely to be found in overweight dogs. However, some overweight dogs will go their whole lives without ever developing a lipoma, and some leaner dogs will get several. There are also some breeds of dogs which seem to be predisposed to developing lipomas, and these include Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Cocker Spaniels and Doberman Pinschers. DQ|1C
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CAUSE There doesn’t seem to be a specific cause for lipomas in dogs, although the consensus amongst veterinary professionals is that there is a combination of genetic and environmental factors which contribute to the development of the fatty lumps. DIAGNOSIS The shape and feel of a lipoma can vary but it is usually a soft, round lump. Their mobility depends on whether they are stuck to any surrounding tissues or not. Your vet will assess any lumps or bumps and may or may not perform a fine-needle aspirate to determine whether the lesion is indeed just a lipoma or a far more dangerous cancerous liposarcoma. A fine-needle aspirate involves using a small needle with a syringe and taking a sample of cells from the
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tumour, and then examining those cells under a microscope to see what they are. If the results of the fine-needle aspirate are unclear, your veterinarian may also choose to do a biopsy.
TREATMENT The most effective treatment for lipomas in dogs is surgical removal, although sometimes lipomas do return after an operation. Therefore, some vets will suggest monitoring the lump and paying attention for any changes in size, shape, or feel. You can use your cellphone to easily take photos and note the size of the lump every few months or so. This provides an accurate record of changes. NOTE: Sometimes, weight loss can also assist in reducing the size of lipomas. TAKE HOME MESSAGE If you are concerned about any lumps you have found on your dog, it is best to have your vet check them and advise on the recommended way forward. DQ|1C
EDITION 10 | MARCH 2022
EDITION 12 | MAY 2022
EDITION 10 | MARCH 2022
EDITION 12 | MAY 2022
D O G H E A LT H
TEXT: DR MEGAN ESTERHUYSEN (BVSC)
ARTHRITIS IS IT ALL IN THE GENES?
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n my previous article, we discussed how arthritis is not just an 'old dog disease'. We explained that many breeds are predisposed to certain juvenile orthopaedic diseases and could be suffering from the effects of progressive arthritis from an early age. The question we will tackle today is whether arthritis is all about your dog's genetics or if there is anything you can do to lessen the impact of this chronic and progressive condition? The good news is that certain other factors also play a role in your dog developing arthritis, and these are within your control. So, don't despair! There is plenty you can do to increase the chances of your dog living a long and healthy life. So, let's dive in and see where you can have a significant influence:
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NUTRITION Firstly, let us discuss an essential, everyday factor in your pet's life, and that is nutrition! Not all dogs are the same; hence they all have very different nutritional needs. Developmental orthopaedic disease refers to a group of skeletal abnormalities primarily affecting fast-growing, large and giant breeds such as Rottweilers and Labradors. Yet, I often hear clients complain about the price of diets, which are specifically formulated for large breed puppies. My advice to these owners is always the same, "Rather spend the money on an excellent quality food until they are fully grown than have a dog that cannot enjoy walking or playing when they are only two years old". The most frequent problems we encounter regarding the nutrition of these DQ|1C
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larger dogs are nutrient excess (calcium and energy) and rapid growth due to overfeeding or feeding a diet that is too high in calories. Diets tailor-made for these breeds are lower in energy and calcium and higher in protein, so they help to reduce the risk of these early-onset arthritic issues. Smaller dog breeds are less likely to encounter these issues, but it is still advised to feed them puppy specific food until they reach adulthood.
PORTION SIZE Next, let us discuss whether it really matters if your pet always has access to food (ad lib) or is fed according to the feeding guideline on the packet. Does it make a big difference?
The answer is simple and is a resounding 'yes'. A longterm study conducted on 48 Labrador Retrievers fed the same diet showed the vast difference that restricted versus non-restricted feeding had on these dogs. Dogs in litters from seven dams and two sires were paired according to sex and weight and randomly assigned to one of two groups. The non-restricted group could eat as much as they wanted, whereas the restricted fed group received a calculated amount of food each day. The radiographic evidence of arthritis in X-rays taken when the dogs turned eight years old was more prevalent and severe in the nonrestricted diet dogs when compared to the restricted diet dogs. In conclusion, the study revealed that by maintaining a dog in optimal or a slightly lean body condition, they
Rottweilers are particularly at risk of developmental orthopaedic disease.
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D O G H E A LT H
We need to be careful with how much exercise we allow our young large breed dogs to do.
might be at a lower risk of developing arthritis and a delay in onset of clinical signs of arthritis.
STERILISATION Another factor which could play a role in the development of arthritis in large and giant breed dogs is at which age where they are sterilised. Growth plates are areas within the bone where growth occurs, and the sex hormones testosterone and oestrogen influence the time at which these growth plates close. As a dog reaches puberty, the level of these specific hormones increases and induces closure of the growth plates, thereby halting further growth. However, when a dog is sterilised, these hormones stop being produced; hence the growth plates stay open for longer. This results in sterilised dogs being taller, changing their conformation, joint biomechanics, and joint stability, leading to an increased incidence of orthopaedic problems. This problem can be avoided by delaying sterilisation until after skeletal maturity has been achieved. At this stage, the dog is no longer dependent on the sex hormones as
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the growth plates have closed. The recommendation is to sterilise large breed dogs at 11-12 months of age or after their first heat and giant breeds only at 14 months of age or after their first heat. Sterilised dogs are also more likely to be overweight or obese, which increases their risk of developing arthritis. After sterilisation, the dog's metabolic rate can decrease by up to 30%, so they frequently require a diet which is lower in calories.
EXERCISE Finally, let us talk about exercise. We all tend to think that the more exercise your dog does, the better, but this is actually not the case – particularly for puppies. A link between the month that your puppy is born and the chance that they will develop orthopaedic diseases has been found, which suggests activity has a sizeable effect. The observed effect was felt to be due to the differing exercise regimes of a puppy born in summer compared to those born in winter. Puppies born during the warmer months are DQ|1C
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By being patient early on we are likely to have long active lives with our dogs.
more at risk of exercising too much and being exposed to runs or walks which are too long. Whereas puppies born in the colder months tend to spend the first few months of life snuggled under a blanket with you. Growth plates which are responsible for bones becoming longer and denser, are very soft when the dog is young and too much exercise, or the wrong type of exercise, can have devastating effects on these areas. If the growth plate is injured whilst the dog is still growing, it can lead to delayed or complete premature closure of the growth plate, causing one leg to be shorter than another, and predisposing the dog to orthopaedic diseases. Large and giant breeds, as mentioned previously, only reach skeletal maturity around 12 to 18 months of age. They, therefore, require gentle exercise until this time to protect their growth plates. Long runs, ball chasing, and activities requiring sharp turns should be avoided until this point. All exercise should be consistent with only mild to moderate exertion and mainly consist of leash walking until the growth plates are closed. I know that this means delaying those amazing runs together, but if you start too early, you may only enjoy them for a while. Overdo it when they are too young, and you may end up with a young dog in the prime of their life who can hardly manage a walk around the block.
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TAKE-HOME MESSAGES So, in conclusion, you may not be able to change your dog's genetic makeup, but you can monitor their diet, weight, exercise and make a plan to only sterilise them when they are fully grown. These may seem like minor things, but they could make a huge difference to your furry friend's quality of life.
We need to be careful with portion control for our dogs.
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WHY WOULD YOU WANT A FITNESS TRAINER FOR YOUR CANINE ATHLETE? What do Siya Kolisi, Serena Williams and Michael Phelps have in common? Well besides being great athletes and household names in their chosen sports, they have coaches and trainers. Even non-professional athletes realise that they cannot do it alone, and often turn to the professional services of coaches, personal trainers, biokineticists and physiotherapists to improve performance and technique, and reduce the chances of injury. Why should it be any different for your canine companion? Canine sports are becoming increasingly popular. In South Africa perhaps the most prevalent is agility but IPO, gun dog trials, tracking and herding competitions are also very well attended. We also should include obedience training and breed shows in the mix. In order to compete in these events, dogs should be considered and treated as canine athletes. Other canine athletes include our security dogs, those that track rhino poachers, guide dogs, detection dogs and other service dogs. We must also not exclude our weekend warriors, the dogs that run with their human companions, and dogs that play fetch with the children every day.
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If you look at the picture of the ballerina leaping into the air, many of us appreciate the skill, fitness and effort that it takes to be able to perform this movement. Most of us assume that this ballerina is in peak physical condition and has practised for hours upon hours to achieve this result. Now look at the picture next to it of the dog catching the ball, leaping into the air to grab that ball between his teeth. It may surprise you to know that this move is likely on par with what the ballerina is doing. The level of fitness required and the potential for injury if the dog is not fit or strong enough, are equivalent. CANINE SPORTS MEDICINE Canine sports medicine is the new kid on the block. This branch of veterinary medicine includes orthopaedics, exercise physiology, neurology, cardiology, pulmonology and nutrition. Critical partners to canine sports medicine are fitness and rehabilitation. Fitness and rehabilitation includes conditioning, maintaining and regaining fitness. The obvious role of physical rehabilitation is that of post-injury or post-surgical recovery as well as the conservative management of a number of orthopaedic and neurological conditions, but physical rehabilitation practitioners can also play a large role in injury prevention, as well as establishing routines to prevent re-injury in sporting and working dogs. In the unfortunate event that an injury has already occurred, this branch of veterinary medicine becomes even more important. The challenge at this point is to help the dog return to a state of muscular ability, endurance, coordination, balance and flexibility that enables them to train and compete or work again. Given the significant investment made by both the guardian, trainer and the athlete, it is expected that these dogs must return to their absolute best ability. There can be no second best.
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TYPICAL REHABILITATION PROGRAMMES A typical rehabilitation programme designed for a canine athlete will include exercises for strength, awareness, endurance and skills development. Strengthening can have a general focus or be unilateral and specific, concentrating on an injured joint. Proprioceptive exercises play an integral role in improving the ability of the athlete. Being aware of foot placement translates into more control of the movement of the body and therefore a decreased likelihood of sustaining an injury. Endurance exercises are important but the amount of attention placed on these is dependent on the sport. Herding requires more endurance than flyball, for instance. The last type of exercise is skills training. Agility dogs will learn how to negotiate a jump but not follow a scent. Skills training is specific to the chosen sport. START NOW But why wait until an injury has occurred before intervening? Human athletes start working with their team of sports professionals before an injury occurs, not only to prevent injury, but to improve their performance to enable them to compete at the top of their game. Employing the services of a Certified Canine Fitness Trainer can help you and your canine athlete perform better, whether in the breed-show ring, on the agility course, or out tracking poachers in the bush. A Certified Canine Fitness Trainer has a keen understanding of proper canine exercise form, technique, behaviour, and programme design for optimum performance and injury prevention using science based, force-free training methods and canine-specific conditioning equipment.
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Based at Animal Health and Hydro Benoni, Jessica Evans is a Canine Rehabilitation and Fitness Practitioner authorised by the South African Veterinary Council. Jessica works under the guidance and mentorship of Dr Tanya Grantham, a qualified Veterinarian with a certification in Canine Sports Medicine. Jessica completed her Certification in Canine Fitness with the University of Tennessee in the United States of America, and is therefore an authority on the subject.
Jessica has this to say, “while I adore my rehabilitation patients and seeing them heal and return to function brings me much joy, I would rather prefer to see them when they are still at the peak of their physical condition. My goal is to work together with these canine athletes and their human guardians to prevent injury and improve their overall athletic performance. Jessica explains that the benefit of working with a Certified Canine Fitness Trainer is that the focus is on the canine athlete’s entire body. When our dogs perform a particular job or participate in a specific sport we often focus on the skills and movements of the specialised role, we are expecting them to perform. We neglect areas of the body “not necessary” for that sport. The result is often repetitive strain injury; an injury resulting from an
unbalanced body or weak core, a poor gait or simply under performance. Our job is to improve overall body fitness and balance; enhance limb awareness, which improves limb placement; strengthen the core; build muscle; and provide mental stimulation and enjoyment. The goal is a fitter, healthier, stronger and more well-adjusted athlete. Following on from the human trend of actively pursuing wellness, preventative medicine is becoming a ‘thing’ amongst discerning human guardians. Working together with your dog, and your Canine Fitness Trainer alongside other members of the Animal Health Team (behaviourists, veterinarians etc.) allows you to optimise the health and performance of your canine athlete. When is the best time to start? When your dog is a puppy. Whether your puppy is going to have a job, participate in a sport or whether her only job will be to lay on the couch with you watching Netflix, all dogs can benefit from a well-constructed puppy fitness program. Click here to learn more about Jessica Evan’s “Puppy Fitness Program”. This 12-week, online course will equip you with all the foundational skills you need to improve your puppy’s physical and mental condition.
If you have an adult dog call Animal Health and Hydro for an assessment so that Jessica and the team can develop a tailored training program for you.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW OUR PUPPY FITNESS PROGRAM
ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD 154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni Contact: 083 230 2188 Email: animalhealths@gmail.com ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST 218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates Contact: 074 251 4410 Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com
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W E L FA R E
TEXT: GEORGIA HARLEY
GSP RESCUE SOUTH AFRICA
MAKING A DIFFERENCE
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s the name suggests, the focus of this organisation is the rescuing and rehoming of German Pointers, but this is not where the scope of work for GSP Rescue ends. The team also rescue English Pointers and Vizslas, along with many other dogs, particularly crossbreeds featuring the above breeds.
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FUN FACT A healthy, fit adult GSP can reach a top speed of between 50 and 70km/h.
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W E L FA R E
THE RESCUE PROBLEM As is sadly the case with many high energy, high stimulation 'working dogs' GSPs are often purchased as puppies and returned or abandoned not long after. Many owners are unaware of the breed's requirements upon purchasing their puppy and soon realise they are not equipped to deal with this active breed. Often due to the lack of stimulation and exercise these pointers receive, they become frustrated and indulge in behaviours their new owner dislikes. Owners then try to find homes for the dogs themselves. This often creates even bigger issues as the websites and sales platforms that owners select very rarely find a suitable home for the dog, and the dog ends up in the same situation as before, unstimulated and frustrated. To compound the issue, certain irresponsible breeders knowingly sell their litters to homes that are not suitable simply to 'get the pups off their hands' and money in the bank. The GSP rescue focuses on rescuing these dogs and finding them suitable new homes. A lengthy and extensive adoption process ensures this suitability. DQ|1C
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SUCCESS STORY As Rolien of the GSP Rescue says, "every rescue and adoption is a success", but the story of GSP female Alice sticks out the most. Alice was skin and bone and had been deprived of food and attention - a dog's basic needs. When she was collected from a veterinary practice in Pretoria and taken to the GSP resident caregivers, Muldersdrift Animal Clinic, she weighed a minuscule 11kg. The normal weight for a female GSP is between 22 and 25kg. She remained in the vet's care for three months. She received a special food for her to slowly but surely put on weighed. If she had not been rescued when she was, she would not have made it. Every day Rolien went to visit her to teach her to trust humans. At first, Alice did not even want to even go outside the kennel, but through patience and persistence, Alice finally learned to trust and enjoy the attention. The best part of this story is that there was a home waiting for Alice before she left the vet. Although Alice's time was cut short with her loving family due to cancer, she was dearly and deeply loved in her ultimate home.
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BACKGROUND The GSP Rescue did not start as the non-profit organisation it is today. Instead, it was the coming together of a group of pointer loving friends who wanted to make a difference and help. In 2015, the GSP Rescue became formalised and created a more refined adoption process. In 2016 the GSP Rescue became a non-profit organisation, and since 2015, the Rescue has found loving homes for almost 400 dogs (roughly 75 to 80 pointers per year). Since refining the adoption process, the GSP rescue has had an almost 99% success rate with adoptions. The homes have been suitable, and animals live out their days in a home they deserve, experiencing love, health, and happiness. Before leaving the GSP Rescue, all the dogs are sterilised, microchipped, and dewormed and vaccinations are completed to make them up to date. GET INVOLVED If you would like to get involved, please visit the GSP Rescue South Africa website, where you can find forms for adopting or becoming a foster. You can also read a host of other tips on how you can help the pointers of South Africa. DQ|1C
FOCUS
SPOT AND BAILEY
PHOTOGRAPHY: NATHALIE BOUCRY PHOTOGRAPHY (WWW.NATHALIEBOUCRY.COM)
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YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED
How long does the digestive process take in a dog?
The entire digestive process, from the mouth to the rectum, has usually been said to take about 6-8 hours in dogs. However, some more recent studies suggest it may be more like 13 hours.
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It is thought that the digestive process for giant breed dogs could be considerably longer than for smaller dogs, even taking as long as 21.5 to over 57 hours. In essence, the length of the process seems to vary drastically depending on the size and breed of the dog, health conditions, stress levels, type of food and other factors.
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Q&A
How do I know if my dog wants a belly rub or is being submissive?
Dogs expose their bellies for two main reasons: 1. As a submissive display (otherwise known as an appeasement display) 2. As a request for a belly rub It’s important to know what the dog is telling you before you automatically go for the belly rub. Dogs adopting a submissive display are trying to diffuse social tension by indicating that they are not a threat. Petting a dog in this scenario can make the dog even more tense and nervous, because now you are touching him in a very vulnerable part of his body.
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Dogs who actually want a belly rub will generally show the following body language signs: • Overall: loose, relaxed body postures • Mouth: relaxed, open mouth, floppy tongue • Eyes: open or slightly closed, bright • Tail: relaxed and wagging • Vocalisations: maybe a light panting sound or silent In contrast, a dog who is showing submissive behaviour will show the following signs: • Overall: tense, low body posture, crouching, freezing • Mouth: lips pulled back in a ‘fear grimace’ or lips and mouth closed, may see lip-licking and tongue flicking • Eyes: wide open and staring into the distance, or showing the whites of their eyes, or squinty, tense eyes • Tail: may be still or wagging but will have tension in the base of the of the tail, or the tail may be tucked • Vocalisations: quiet or soft whining
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Outward Hound Fun Feeder
Did you know that fast-eating dogs are more likely to experience bloat, regurgitation, and obesity? Canine bloat, aka GDV, happens when speedy eating causes excessive amounts of fluid, food, and air to fill the stomach, which can be very dangerous. Slow feeder dog bowls are designed to prevent these issues through the use of ridges and maze patterns, which slow eating pace by up to 10 times! These bowls aid in digestion while engaging dogs during mealtime and reducing overeating behaviour. · Holds up to 4 cups of dry dog food · Slows eating up to 10x · Works with dry, wet and raw food · Food safe materials · BPA, PVC, lead & phthalate-free · Non-slip base · Top rack dishwasher safe · Available in multiple sizes and patterns Available from select vet, pet and online stores nationwide. Visit www.mcmac.co.za for more information.
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PaleoPet Pure THERAWPY Beef, Pineapple & Turmeric Meal for Dogs The PaleoPet Pure THERAWPY range of complete and balanced meals, has been specifically formulated for older dogs or dogs with liver or kidney issues. PaleoPet Pure’s THERAWPY Beef, Pineapple & Turmeric Meal is made from 70% meat, organ meat and crushed bone with 30% veggies and fruit, of which 5% is pineapple. This power meal contains Organic Turmeric and Coconut oil with black pepper to counter inflammation. It is ideal for dogs suffering from arthritis or who may be a bit more sedentary and require additional fibre. The lower protein, fat and phosphorus also mean this meal is suitable for dogs with kidney or liver issues. As with all PaleoPet Pure complete meals a healthy dose of Omega 3 from sustainably sourced phytoplankton is added, along with Kelp and Vitamin E. The PaleoPet Pure range is Food Safety certified and DAFF registered. Meals are produced using human food grade ingredients. Available in convenient, pre-frozen 1,5 Kg and 750g tubs or as a box of 12 individually wrapped 100g Patties. Tubs are re-usable, recyclable and PBA-free. Products can be purchased online at www.paleopetpure.com or at selected retailers
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