DIGITAL ISSUE 2A | 2022
SOUTH AFRICA’S PREMIER DOG MAGAZINE
SMALL DENTAL ROUTINES
BIG SMILES IT’S AS EASY AS 1, 2, 3
McMac Pet SA | +27 11 708 0228 | info@mcmac.co.za | www.mcmac.co.za
Hello! Welcome to our fourth issue of DQ Magazine. We're thrilled that you are here with us again. In this edition, we have a whole host of content from our fabulous writers. We look at using diet to combat itchy skin, the role of Essential Oils, creating a sensory garden, and the importance of dental hygiene. In addition, we have a fantastic article from Zani Koen on her hiking adventure in Piesangkloof, and we hear from George (of Life of George fame) about his rescue sister Gracie. It's another jam-packed edition, and we hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed putting it together. As always, if you have any suggestions for content or would like to get involved with DQ, get in touch with lizzie@dqmagazine.co.za Stay warm!
Lizzie and xxx the DQ team Dr Lizzie Harrison | Editor
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Designer: Anne Royden-Turner
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IN THIS ISSUE 06 Canine Enrichment Part 4
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Adventures in Gauteng Hiking Piesangkloof
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Toy Pomeranian Small in stature, big in personality
40 Ditch that itch Feeding to relieve itchiness
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Body language explained Part 4: The head
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Animal Health and Hydro Managing pain with physical activity
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Time to say goodbye How to make the impossible decision
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Keeping your dog warm this winter
Essential Oils Their safe use in animals
Winter worries
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Ask DQ Your dog questions answered
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Pearly whites Oral hygiene for our dogs
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Products we love
Pee stains
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Live life unleashed
Getting rid of those yellow patches on the lawn
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Lessons for humans taught by dogs
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D O G S AT P L AY TEXT: SARAH WANLESS
PART 4
CANINE ENRICHMENT
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D O G S AT P L AY
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his month we look at a form of passive enrichment for your canine companion. Passive enrichment is a form of enrichment which, once organised, provides your dog with an enrichment experience without you having to do anything. In this article we look at the passive enrichment activity of exploring sensory gardens. Adding some sensory elements to your garden provides a safe, enriching outdoor space for your dog. Canine sensory gardens give a whole host of benefits, including mental and physical enrichment, a confidence boost and stress relief. So, what is a canine sensory garden?
CANINE SENSORY GARDEN A canine sensory garden is a section in your garden, planned with your canine in mind. It seeks to provide mental and physical enrichment and stimulation to your dog through plants, materials, textures and activities that stimulate all five senses (smell, sight, sound, taste and touch). Sensory gardens for pets were first introduced back in 2013 at animal shelters that were looking for a way to enrich and de-stress dogs kept in kennels. It had been observed that dogs at home were fascinated by their owner’s herb gardens, and those who were allowed to
NOTE It is important to remember that the plants in your canine sensory garden may be destroyed, but ultimately that’s the point, so you can’t get upset when this happens!
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partake in scent investigation were happier and more relaxed. The introduction of sensory gardens in the kennels was seen to have an immediate, positive impact on the canine inhabitants, who were allowed (and encouraged) to run, sniff, investigate specially selected plants and herbs, get down and dirty in the mud area and dig in the digging pit.
BUILD YOUR OWN Here’s how you can develop a sensory garden for your pup: PLANTS When selecting plants for your pet-friendly garden, it is important to select plants that are not only safe for your dog to smell but also eat. It is also a good idea to have some plants in pots so that you can move them around; this helps to keep things new and interesting. The best sensory gardens have a wide variety of plants, especially plants that offer some health benefits. Dogs have been seen to self-medicate where they can, so it’s a good idea to give them an opportunity to do this. In terms of plants for your sensory garden, we recommend the following:
• • • • • • • • • •
Chamomile Valerian Yarrow Grass Lavender Rosemary Mint Barely Grass Catnip Pet grass
TEXTURE While adding texture sounds intimidating, it definitely isn’t. Think astroturf, different types of grass, wood chips, sand, gravel and water. Adding different textures appeals to the 'touch' sense and helps boost a dog’s confidence (especially in puppies). ACTIVITIES Of course, the sensory garden also lends itself to the installation of a digging pit or another form of enrichment activity that your dog may enjoy.
Using gravel adds another interesting element for your dog to investigate.
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TEXT: ZANI KOEN
ADVENTURES
IN GAUTENG:
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HIKING PIESANGKLOOF
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n my quest to visit all the pet-friendly hiking trails in Gauteng this year, I have completed a couple of moderately difficult trails. After these, I felt it was now time to attempt the notoriously challenging Piesangkloof 8km hike.
THE VENUE We made our way to Piesangkloof 4x4 Trails and Bush Camp on a clear and cool autumn morning. The Camp is located past Hartbeespoort Dam, just under an hour's drive from Pretoria. We were warmly greeted by Maritza, one of the owners, who gave us a thorough run-through of what to expect on the trail and answered any questions we had. She confirmed that our dogs were more than welcome to be off-leash at our own discretion. It is worthwhile to note that there is a possibility of encountering game and various wildlife on the trail (we saw none), so a good recall is advisable. We parked our cars at the quaint and rustic bush camp. There are no restaurant or shop facilities here, but a picnic under the trees after your hike would be quite lovely. THE TRAIL It was time for our little gang of two humans and three Collies to set off on our adventure. We made our way through a beautiful, shaded gorge with little pools and streams here and there. The 3.6km trail option basically goes up and back in this gorge, which looks to be quite a relaxing experience, but that was not on the cards for our day. Shortly into our hike, we had to turn off onto the 8km trail and were immediately confronted with an intimidating uphill. DQ|2A
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It was steep, and it was incessant. The 400m or so elevation gain is almost continuous, with minimal respite. The start of the climb, in particular, would be much trickier if you also have an on-leash dog to manage. Also, most of the trail, especially the hardest parts, is in the sun, so be sure to carry more than enough water. Once we got to the top of the mountain, we got some time to enjoy the epic views while walking along the crest before the trail started to guide us toward our descent. The trail takes you back to the top of the gorge, where you make your way down to the Camp through glorious fairy forests and pools with clean spring water. But as luck would have it, we missed the route markers for this part of the trail, even though we were warned of that possibility before setting off. We had to complete our hike using the 4x4 trail, which was (presumably) much less scenic.
THE HIGHLIGHTS As you traipse up the mountain, you are treated to the sight of lots of interesting rock formations and majestic views when you look back while taking a breather. We were also lucky to be met by some vultures flying overhead on our way to the top. They were flying close enough that we could see them looking back at us. Maybe they were hanging around to see if our heavy breathing meant we would soon keel over to become a delicious vulture meal? Let's hope not. On our hike's literal and figurative high point, we crested the mountain and were met with a breathtaking view to the southeast. The land was mostly covered with clouds below us, so it felt like we were standing in the heavens! From this vantage point, you can see for tens of kilometres. On an exceptionally clear day, it is said that you can even see the Dome in Johannesburg! FINAL THOUGHTS If you are the type of person that thrives off challenges, this trail is for you! You will be rewarded by beautiful scenery and that high you get from pushing your limits. Even people with moderate fitness levels would be able to complete this hike, provided they have a fair bit of determination. I, personally, am glad that I can tick this one off my list. It will take some convincing to get me to do it again, but never say never!
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Physiotherapy Underwater Treadmill Soft tissue techniques (myofascial release, massage, stretching) Therapeutic exercises Kinesiotaping Laser EMS/TENS, Stimpod Acupuncture Holistic consultations Food therapy Herbals & Homeopathy Tui-na Respiratory Physio Home exercise programs Dr Marisa Slabber BVSc, CVA, MSc, CVTP Kayla du Toit Veterinary Physiotherapist (SAVC)
contact us: 0713706668
holisticare2@gmail.com
www.holisticare.co.za
Cnr Witkoppen & The Straight Ave, Pineslopes, Fourways, Johannesburg.
BREED PROFILE
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BREED PROFILE
Toy Pomeranian SMALL IN STATURE, BIG IN PERSONALITY
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BREED PROFILE DID YOU KNOW?
The Pomeranian was selectively bred down to 'toy' size during the 19th century.
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hese foxy-looking little dogs may be small in stature, but their personalities make up for all they lack in size. With lifespans of 12-15 years, these vivacious dogs make great pets.
BEWARE A common marketing ploy is to advertise 'teacup' Toy Poms. These tiny dogs generally come with a whole host of health problems due to their small size and the in-breeding required to breed at this size. Some of these health issues include cardiac problems, a predisposition to seizures, hydrocephalus and blindness.
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BREED ORIGIN Descended from large sledge-dog breeds and originating in Germany, the Pomeranian is the smallest member of the Spitz family of dog, which includes the Samoyed, Alaskan Malamute, and Schipperke. These dogs all share similar characteristics of a thick, fluffy coat; pointy ears; and furry feet, which help them cope with the cold temperatures they were designed for. An attractive addition to most of these breeds, including the Toy Pomeranian, is the distinctive 'spitz' tail that curls upwards over the back. DQ|2A
BREED PROFILE
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BREED PROFILE
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BREED PROFILE DID YOU KNOW?
These little dogs are amazingly fast for their size!
PERSONALITY Vivacious, alert, cute and feisty are just some words used to describe these dogs. They are ideal for small houses because they don't need much space, but they do require regular walks. They can be suspicious of strangers and are not afraid to confront dogs bigger than them, which can get them into trouble from time to time, and although they make great indoor watchdogs, they do also tend to bark a lot, so this is definitely something you would want to address from the start. Many folks may see them as handbag dogs, but these bold little dogs are more than capable of participating in things like agility and obedience, as well as being loyal and affectionate sidekicks. APPEARANCE The Pom comes in various solid coat colours, with red, black, white, brown and cream being the most common. Their double coat is actually not too difficult to care for and only really requires regular brushing. They often have abundant frills around the neck, shoulders and chest. Their little almond-shaped eyes are dark, and they have a recognisable plumed tail that fans out over their back. DQ|2A
HEALTH When it comes to Poms, the most common health concerns would be patella luxation, collapsed trachea and Cushing's Disease, but they are generally known to be healthy dogs. As with most small breed dogs, though, dental disease is a common concern, and so they will need regular dental checkups to stay on top of this. SUITABILITY If you feel like a Toy Pomeranian is the dog for you, do your homework and get in touch with a reputable breeder or contact rescue centres. If you are looking for affection, fun and cuteness overload, this is the breed for you!
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BODY LANGUAGE EXPLAINED PART 4: THE HEAD
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ogs don’t have quite the same range of facial expressions as we do, but you can still tell a lot about their moods by looking at how they hold their head. One of the expressions most of us will be familiar with is the adorable head tilt. When a dog sees or hears something new, they tip their head to one side and raise their eyebrows. This helps them to see more clearly
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and allows them to work out which direction a sound is coming from. Researchers at the University of Bern in Switzerland found that dogs use other facial expressions too. When they are anticipating good things, they move their ears forward; when they are disappointed, they move their ears back and lick their noses.
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B E H AV I O U R
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D O G H E A LT H
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TIME TO SAY GOODBYE HOW TO MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE DECISION
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wning a dog means that one day you will inevitably face end-of-life concerns and decisions. Most of us would prefer that our dogs pass away peacefully in their sleep, but unfortunately, this rarely happens. In fact, waiting for death to come naturally can be a disservice to our long-serving dogs. An excerpt from the Guidelines for Pain Management in Palliative and End-of-Life Care of Small Animals, International Veterinary Academy of Pain Management 2011 states: “Sadly, because of their silence and the inability of humans to accurately assess their true physical and emotional pain, animals may (and often are) inadvertently forced to suffer inhumanely.” In this article, we look at the role of euthanasia and how to know when it’s time to say goodbye.
WHEN IS IT TIME? It’s heartbreaking when you start to realise that your days with your best friend are coming to an end. Staying DQ|2A
objective at times like these is almost impossible, but there are ways that you can help yourself to come to the right decision for your dog. Chat to your vet It goes without saying that one of the most important people to chat to at this stage is your vet. They won’t decide for you or tell you what to do, but they will be able to guide you. If the treatment options are exhausted, they will tell you this and also give you an indication of whether they believe your dog is suffering or in pain. Look back at videos or photographs When we see our dogs every day, it can be hard to spot the deterioration. If you are concerned that your dog is struggling in some way, look back on old photographs and videos to see just how different their behaviour is from the way it was previously. This can allow a more objective assessment of the situation.
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Keep a diary Keeping a diary every day of whether your dog has had a ‘good’ or ‘bad’ day can be very helpful. When the bad days start to outweigh the good, objectively seeing this on paper can help make the decision easier. Ask yourself these questions Knowing your answers to the questions below can help you know when it’s time to make the call. Would you consider euthanasia if your dog was: - feeling pain? - unable to control their bladder or bowel? - no longer eating? - no longer participating in family life, but merely existing? - unable to move independently? - acting abnormally? - suffering from a terminal disease and palliative care options had been exhausted? - requiring treatment that you could not afford financially? - ready to be euthanised in the eyes of your vet?
CAN MY DOG PASS AWAY NATURALLY? Some dogs do pass away peacefully in their sleep, but this situation is relatively rare. Sadly, waiting for death to occur naturally can often lead to your dog suffering. Many pet owners report regret at having waited too long before deciding to euthanise.
FINAL THOUGHTS Deciding when to say goodbye to your best friend is a devastatingly hard decision to make. It’s easy to become overwhelmed with feelings of guilt and sadness, so use these tips and the quality of life scale to assist you in making the right decision for your dog. And, remember, sometimes the best way that you can show your love is by letting go.
Gone, but not forgotten...
Our animals bring us so much joy. When the sad day of their passing comes, we’re here to help you honour their loyalty and faithfulness. Through our Return of Ashes service and our range of Memorabilia you can find comfort in your time of grief. For over 25 years we have been serving vets and pet owners with the utmost dignity, integrity and compassion. For more information and to see our product range talk to your vet or visit www.legacypet.co.za
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TEXT: DR MARISA SLABBERT
Essential oils THEIR SAFE USE IN ANIMALS
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lthough great precaution should be exercised, Essential Oils can be a wonderful and safe method to apply nature’s remedy yourself to your animals, often with remarkable results. Animals have an olfactory system (the mechanism of smelling) that is many times more powerful than that of humans. It is one of their strongest senses for both purposes of survival and self-medication. Consider wild animals with a vast range to move and forage, and when or how often you see them poisoned by plants, having allergies, or suffering from anxiety or common diseases our pets struggle with daily. This discrepancy is due to the fact that wild animals (including the canine, feline, equine, caprine and porcine family) can smell the properties in plants, grasses and leaves that can help maintain or restore health.
WHAT ARE ESSENTIAL OILS? Essential Oils are chemical substances that can be derived from plants directly (via cold-pressing, steam distilling and other extraction methods) and contain healing substances like limonene, bioflavonoids, and terpenes, to name but a few. These substances enter the bloodstream within as little as two minutes, and some oils like Frankincense (Boswelia) even cross the blood-brain barrier. The healing properties and effects of Essential Oils are vast and still relatively unknown, although there is quite a substantial amount of science to prove their effectiveness in certain diseases. Due to the fact that animals know what they need, we can use them as our guide as to what to administer. This is a concept called Zoopharmacognosy. WHAT IS ZOOPHARMACOGNOSY? Zoopharmacognosy is an animal “self-medicating itself” by choosing the oils he needs most. With this, you use the animal to choose an essential oil. To do this: DQ|2A
• I ntroduce the Essential Oil with the cap on. CAUTION: Beware as some animals may grab the bottle. • Look out for positive or negative responses. A positive response is where a dog or cat remains in the close vicinity of the bottle or oil offered, either with their head turned towards or away from the bottle. The turn of the head simply indicates their sensitivity, and they turn to regulate the number of Essential Oil molecules they are receiving at one time. On the other hand, if an animal tries to get away from the bottle or even the room where the oils are, this is a negative response. • Not sure? Diffuse a drop or two for a few minutes and observe the animal’s behaviour. i.e., Does the animal go out of the room or does the animal move closer to the diffuser?
HOW TO USE OILS There are three ways to use Essential Oils safely in animals: aromatically, topically and internally. Although one can choose which method one would like to employ, you need to understand that at some point, your animal will groom itself and thereby ingest the oil. Therefore, even if oils are applied topically or diffused or offered on clothes or bedding, animals need to be closely supervised for their reaction to the oils for quite a long period. When used aromatically, the following methods can be applied: • Diffusion • Spray into the air with an atomizer/spray bottle • Direct inhalation • Applied to a cloth, cotton ball or bedding • Applied in hot water or steam • Used in a humidifier • Distributed with a fan or air filter
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When used topically, you must first dilute the oil in either a roller or spray bottle and then apply one of the following methods: • Apply directly to the spine • Massage the oil into the skin • Apply to Reflexology Points or Meridians • Perform ear tipping • Apply to area of interest • Use in shampoo • Apply with a cold/hot compress When used internally, the following should be adhered to strictly: WARNING: Essential Oils MUST indicate that they can be used internally on the bottle label or product description sheet. You must not use them internally if they do not state explicitly that they can be used for this purpose. Alternatively, you should discuss options with your veterinarian or qualified aromatherapist and find out which oils are safe and suitable. The maximum dose at any time is 1-2 drops. Options for administration are as follows: • Mix with wet food to dilute the oil • Administer in a capsule (1-2 drops, topped off with a carrier oil such as EVO) • Place a drop of oil on the finger, wait for it to be almost dry and then rub into the gums NOTE: Topical application will also result in internal intake.
DILUTION RATES FOR APPLICATION Dilution rates are very important in animals, especially small animals like dogs. The principles of dilution are as follows: • Start out more diluted when introducing Essential Oils to your pet. You can always increase the concentration if the desired effect is not reached, but it is difficult to remove an essential oil once it has already been absorbed. • Carrier oils to use include FCO (Fractionated Coconut oil), Extra Virgin Olive Oil or Almond Oil. • Each animal is an individual and your pet may be more
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sensitive than others so pay close attention to their reaction. • Also, note that needs change, so don’t be alarmed if your animal was happy with a certain blend and then changes their preference over time to no oil at all, or another blend. The following guidelines can be used safely for dilution: • Dogs: 0.5% for hot oils for dogs under 9 kg, and use up to 3% for gentle oils with larger dogs.
CONTRAINDICATIONS Some Essential Oils are contraindicated in certain conditions and with some medications, so you always need to check with your vet or an experienced practitioner before using an oil with your dog. It is important to read the labels before using a proprietary blend as some proprietary blends may contain Essential Oils that may be contraindicated in your dog: With dogs, you must ALWAYS avoid: • Birch, Melaleuca (Tea Tree), and wintergreen
NOT ALL ESSENTIAL OILS ARE CREATED EQUAL. There can be a lot of fillers or contaminants added to Essential OIls that may be toxic to your animal. For this reason, I recommend DoTerra essential oils as they are CPTG (Certified Pure Therapeutic Grade) and used in hospitals safely around the world. These oils: • Are tested to be safe. • Are 100% pure and effective • Are therapeutic food-grade Essential Oils which are used by medical professionals all over the world. • Contain no added fillers or harmful fragrances. • Are regulated and undergo third-party testing to ensure purity, safety and efficiency
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D O G H E A LT H SAFE OILS The following oils can be safely used in most animal species:
GERANIUM PHYSICAL SUPPORT: • Antibacterial • Insect repellent • Anti-inflammatory • Regenerative EMOTIONAL SUPPORT: When there are feelings of: • Abandonment, loss, distrust, grief Promotes feelings of: • Being loved, trust, forgiveness, gentleness
FRANKINCENSE PHYSICAL SUPPORT: • Anti-inflammatory • Analgesic • Anti-cancer EMOTIONAL SUPPORT: When there are feelings of: • Abandonment Promotes feelings of: • Being loved, protected and connected
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LAVENDER PHYSICAL SUPPORT: • Wound healing • Analgesic • Antioxidant • Antifungal • Antispasmodic • Antimicrobial • Sedative • Anti-tumour EMOTIONAL SUPPORT: When there are feelings of: • Being blocked or unwilling to listen, rejection, tension, insecurity, fear. Promotes feelings of: • Calm, expressiveness, peace and an ability to communicate openly
COPAIBA PHYSICAL SUPPORT: • Anti-inflammatory • Wound healing • Anti-cancer • Antibacterial • Antioxidant EMOTIONAL SUPPORT: When there are feelings of: • Abandonment, rebelliousness, guilt, submissiveness, overwhelm Promotes feelings of: • Clarity, purposefulness and a feeling of being forgiven.
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HELICHRYSUM PHYSICAL SUPPORT: • Wound healing • Analgesic • Antioxidant • Antibacterial • Anti-inflammatory EMOTIONAL SUPPORT: When there are feelings of: • Intense emotional trauma or pain, or feelings of being wounded or hopeless Promotes feelings of: • Hope, courage, perseverance, healing.
Contact HOLISTICARE REHAB Fourways, Sandton, GP 071 370 6668 www.holisticare.co.za holisticare2@gmail.com Don’t know where to start or what oils to choose? Contact us for help and support in your journey: Contact Martie Email: martie.7degrees@gmail.com Tel: 065 260 9665 DISCLAIMER The information provided is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for veterinary care. The information and the products listed are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.
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OUR EXPERT Dr Marisa Slabber • Practising Veterinarian (BVSc) • Studied acupuncture at the Chi University in Florida, USA (CVA) • Completed her Masters In Science Research (MSc) • Most recently became a certified Veterinary Tui-Na Practitioner (CVTP)
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TEXT: SARAH WANLESS
PEARLY WHITES O
ral hygiene is just as important for your canine companion as it is for you. Ignoring your dog’s oral hygiene can have serious consequences, ranging from tooth extraction to life-threatening conditions such as kidney, liver, and heart muscle damage. Further, dogs with dental issues can be extremely uncomfortable, and it is recommended to check your dog’s teeth regularly as part of their regular
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ORAL HYGIENE FOR OUR DOGS
grooming routine. If you have any concerns, you should contact your vet promptly. In fact, dental disease is very common in dogs and usually features in the top five reasons for people seeking veterinary care. As is the case with most diseases, prevention is better than cure. Here we list our top six recommendations for helping to keep your dog’s breath fresh and their kisses sweet.
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BRUSHING YOUR DOG’S TEETH This one should go without saying. Brushing your dog’s teeth daily is a great way to keep his gums and teeth healthy and prevent gum disease. If you can’t manage to brush their teeth daily, aim for at least once or twice a week, but the more often you can do it, the better. You’ll need a toothbrush, and there are several dog-specific toothbrushes on the market that are designed to help you get to all those hard-to-reach places. You’ll also need dog specific toothpaste, as human toothpaste contains xylitol, which is a toxic substance to dogs. Introducing the toothbrushing process gradually will mean that your dog may learn to enjoy the experience, which will make it a lot easier for everyone involved.
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GNAWING ON CHEW TOYS Letting your dog have a good gnaw on a chew toy helps keep those teeth pearly white, relieves boredom and fulfils their natural instinct to chew (what a win!?). Chewing is a natural, non-invasive way for dogs to clean their own teeth, as the act of gnawing helps to scrape off plaque. Recently there has been a dramatic increase in the number of dental toys on the market. They are made from materials ranging from plastic to rubber and nylon and come in all shapes and sizes. We recommend rotating through different types of chew toys as this helps to keep your dog interested in the activity. Be sure to supervise your dogs while they chew to ensure that if a piece of the toy breaks off, they don’t choke on it or ingest it.
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DENTAL CHEWS/TREATS Dental treats come in all shapes and sizes and are specifically designed with knobs, bumps and ridges, which help get into all the gaps and crevices between your dog’s teeth. These treats aim to minimise plaque and tartar build-up while giving the teeth a good polish – as an added bonus, they taste great! We recommend finding all-natural dental chews (such as Whimzees) or doing some research on the ingredients in the chews before feeding them to your pet. As with the chew toys, be sure to supervise your pet while they happily enjoy their treat.
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FOOD AND WATER ADDITIVES There are more and more options for substances that you can add to your dog’s food or water to help fight off plaque and bad breath. These sprays, powders and drops are a quicker alternative to brushing and maybe just as effective. These products are said to kill plaque-causing bacteria to make your dog’s breath smell fresh. In addition to the odour-eliminating effect, they can also remove and prevent tartar and plaque build-up.
A BRIEF ‘HOW TO’ ON RAW BONES 1. Only feed raw bones. Cooked bones can splinter and cause injuries, and smoked bones may be too hard and crack teeth. 2. Don’t feed bones that are too dense. Weight-bearing bones of large animals, like cow femur bones, are very dense. Feeding dense bones can increase the risk of teeth cracking. For small dogs, the rule of thumb in terms of density is that you should be able to cut the bone with a good pair of kitchen scissors. 3. Feeding the right-sized bone. The rough guide is that the bone should be bigger than your dog’s mouth, to reduce choking risk. Knuckles of medium-sized animals, like goats, sheep and pigs, are the ideal choice for teeth cleaning (and recreation). 4. Feed meaty bones. Yes - they are messier, but as mentioned below, they have benefits. 5. ALWAYS supervise your dog when they have a bone.
RAW BONES While feeding bones can be controversial, the research has increasingly shown that feeding raw, meaty bones for 30 minutes, two to three times a week, is very beneficial for canine oral health. It is also a much more enjoyable activity for your pooch than having their teeth brushed (even if you condition this slowly). While the action of scraping their teeth against the bone is beneficial, it is actually the action of pulling the bits of meat, gristle and cartilage off the bone that is more important, as this activity is similar to ‘brushing and flossing’ in humans. If you are unsure about feeding raw meaty bones, we recommend doing your own research.
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ATTEND REGULAR CLEANINGS AT YOUR VET It goes without saying that regular, professional cleanings are one of the best ways to maintain your dog’s oral health and prevent any dental problems like periodontal disease. Most dogs need oral exams once a year so that veterinarians can check for early signs of any serious problems. Certain breeds, such as English Bulldogs, DQ|2A
Yorkshire Terriers, and Dachshunds, are more susceptible to periodontal disease. Having a professional cleaning is quite invasive and requires that your dog be put under general anaesthetic. This is why being proactive and ensuring you do all you can to keep those teeth pearly white at home will save you and your dog a lot of stress (and money).
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TEXT: SARAH WANLESS
PEE STAINS GETTING RID OF THOSE YELLOW PATCHES ON THE LAWN
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D O G H E A LT H
Drinking more water lowers the nitrogen concentration in the urine.
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e all know the struggle of having stained or “burned” patches of grass on our lawn from where our dogs go to pee, but what causes them?
THE CAUSE As with humans, the food our dogs ingest is broken down into nutrients and absorbed into the bloodstream, with waste products filtered out by the kidneys. The urine our dogs produce is then a product of our dog’s diet and the chemical processes taking place in their body. What kills your grass isn’t the urine itself but rather the nutrients (chemical compounds) in the urine, particularly nitrogen. As the water in the urine evaporates during the day, it leaves behind a high concentration of nitrogen. While nitrogen is beneficial for grass (it is, after all, found in fertilisers) in the concentrations found in urine, particularly once the water has evaporated, it is actually harmful. The concentration of nitrogen in your dog’s urine varies due to many factors, such as sex, breed, size and diet. For instance: larger dogs generally urinate more, thus causing more damage; female dogs squat when they urinate, meaning the area is more concentrated than with a male who sprays their urine over a larger area; and diets higher in protein tend to increase the nitrogen content in urine since protein breaks down into nitrogen compounds.
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HOW TO COMBAT IT Fear not; all is not lost! We have a few suggestions to keep your lawn green, happy and healthy: • Encourage your dog to drink more water: This is not only good for overall health, but also dilutes the nitrogen in the dog’s urine. • Train your dog to go potty in a designated ‘pee spot’. Depending on where this pee spot is, your grass may be saved altogether, but at the very least, it can minimise the damage to one particular spot. • Try rinsing the area down with water. After your dog has gone to the loo, you can pour water on the area to help dilute the concentration. While this isn’t always possible if a designated “pee spot” isn’t an option, this is a good potential alternative. • Take your dog out for a wee whenever possible. Even if you live in a house with a garden, taking your dog out to wee frequently prevents large volumes of concentrated urine from building up in your dog’s bladder. • Dog Rocks (tried and tested by us). Dog Rocks are a 100% natural product from Australia, and they really help in reducing the yellow patches on your lawn. Dog Rocks are actual rocks that you place in your dog’s water bowl that help to filter out the impurities of tin, ammonia and nitrates, resulting in cleaner drinking water, reduced yellow patches and a happier and healthier dog and owner.
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DOG NUTRITION
DITCH THAT ITCH
TEXT: VENUSHA MOODLEY-NIRMAL
FEEDING TO RELIEVE ITCHINESS
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round this time of the year, I get an influx of itchy skin cases. Itchy skin is an ailment that we have unfortunately become accustomed to seeing when it is actually not normal. For me, the root of itchy skin (or any skin issue for that matter) is in the gut. Heal the gut, and you will see massive benefits for your pet’s skin.
HOW TO HEAL THE GUT And just how do we heal the gut? Well, your pet’s gut is made to process/digest the food being consumed. It comprises a population of bacteria (called the gut microbiome) that work to ensure optimal digestion and nutrient uptake. When this gut microbiome is unbalanced and not functioning effectively (a condition called dysbiosis), we see tons of ailments in our pets, including itchy skin, redness, increased inflammatory responses, poor digestion, diarrhoea, constipation, vomiting and excessive pooping. Usually, these issues are treated symptomatically, and the problem resolves for a few weeks but then recurs because we have not treated the cause. The solution lies instead in addressing gut health. Here are my tips for creating healthy gut microbiomes to relieve the itch: 1. Feed a diet with minimal carbohydrates (no rice, corn, wheat, high GI veggies etc.) and more fresh foods. 2. Pro and prebiotics are essential for pets, and these should be human-grade. Fermented foods (kefir, yoghurt, veggies) and soluble fibre (apples, berries, green bananas) are also good additions. 3. Reduce excessive inflammation by ensuring your Omega 3:6 ratio is balanced. Most pet foods fail to provide sufficient omegas, and we should be supplementing at home. I love using tinned pilchards or sardines in my pets’ meals or clients’ meal plans to top up the levels. 4. Keep exposure to toxins to an absolute minimum, e.g. use de-wormers, tick and flea remedies only when needed etc. 5. Reduce excessive use of antibiotics and cortisone.
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TAKE HOME MESSAGE If your dog suffers from itchy skin, you need to look at your dog’s diet. Treating symptomatically may be effective in the short term, but the problem will reoccur until the root cause is addressed.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Venusha Moodley-Nirmal is a Microbiologist, Cellular Biologist and Canine Nutritionist that spends her time assisting pet parents to navigate the world of pet nutrition. She consults on all aspects of pet nutrition with vets and the public and manufactures real pet food. V owns LittleAngels Pet Nutrition based in Ballito. You can find out more on www.littleangels.net.za
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D O G H E A LT H
MANAGING PAIN WITH PHYSICAL ACTIVITY Managing pain with physical activity - that sounds counterintuitive, doesn’t it? I know when I am sore the last thing I want to do is hit the gym or go for a run. So why should physical exercise be part of a regular pain management protocol?
INACTIVITY AND PAIN When we or our dogs are sedentary, we don’t use our muscles, so over time our muscles become stiffer, smaller and weaker. If we don’t use them for a long enough time, they may even begin to atrophy altogether. Weak muscles are at risk of injury. When you are eventually forced to use these muscles, perhaps a friend invites you for a game of squash or you take your old dog out for a walk, it is likely that both you and your dog will be sore in the morning. Inactivity also leads to bone loss. Weakened bones are at risk of breaking. Further, not exercising regularly leads to a reduction in joint range of motion and flexibility, which causes stiff, painful joints. Then, a sedentary lifestyle also weakens the heart and diminishes the body’s ability to use oxygen effectively. Finally, inactive dogs and people are prone to carrying excess weight, which places extra stress on the muscles, joints (such as the knees and spine) as well as the heart muscle. When new clients come to see us with their animal companions, we often prescribe an increase in moderate, daily exercise at home to help reduce pain and help our patients feel better. What never ceases to amuse us, particularly with our more elderly clients, is that when we ask for feedback as to how the patient is doing, they often report that their dog is doing much better, but that they too (the clients), are also feeling much better. That is because exercise is so important for managing pain in all animals – humans included! Why is physical exercise such a key ingredient in any pain management programme? This article explores the importance of physical exercise in reducing pain. 42
All of these factors together often result in feelings of chronic pain. This is the start of a vicious cycle, because when we are in pain, we find it much more challenging to motivate ourselves to move, let alone exercise. It’s no different for your animal companion. When your dog, cat or horse is sore they will want to move less and less which only makes the situation worse. This is where you come in. Incorporating regular physical activity within your routine will benefit you and all other participating members of your household.
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have analgesic effects, similar to taking pain medication. Mild to moderate exercise has also been shown to improve the body’s immune system. The increase in the rate of blood flow throughout the body increases the production of white blood cells and increases the rate at which the red blood cells deliver oxygen to the rest of the body.
HOW EXERCISE REDUCES PAIN Our joints need physical activity to remain healthy because Exercise increases joint lubrication. Our joints are surrounded by a membrane called the synovial membrane. Physical exercise encourages this membrane to produce a lubricant called synovial fluid, which helps the joint move more smoothly. As you can imagine, this is very important not only for fit and healthy animals, but also for dogs who suffer from painful conditions such as osteoarthritis. Physical exercise increases the flow of blood throughout the body which feeds the synovial membrane with oxygen, albumin and hyaluronic acid as well as other nutrients which help to nourish the joints. In addition, physical activity helps to remove waste products from the joint. Synovial fluid and waste products can build up in the joints, especially in the case of an arthritic joint. Exercise helps to activate the synovial pump which helps to remove this excess synovial fluid and the waste products from the joint. Failure to do so means that the joint could become more painful and inflamed, as waste products and fluid accumulate within the limited joint space. Exercise helps to build muscle and strengthen ligaments and tendons, to better support the joints. Weaker and compromised joints benefit greatly from more supportive muscles.
So, does this mean that you and your dog should start doing a Parkrun every Saturday?
HOW MUCH EXERCISE AND WHAT EXERCISE IS APPROPRIATE? Just like every person is different, so too is every animal. The appropriate type and amount of exercise will vary from one individual to the next, depending on numerous factors such as: age, previous levels of activity, and whether the individual has any illnesses or is compromised in any way, such as suffering from osteoarthritis, hip dysplasia etc. Puppies and adolescent dogs for example should not participate in any cardiovascular exercise. Their exercise program should focus more on functional movements, balance, flexibility, strengthening and limb awareness. However, as this article is about using exercise to reduce pain, we will focus on exercise for dogs who suffer from painful chronic conditions. While all dogs, including those that suffer from chronic painful conditions such as osteoarthritis need exercise and benefit greatly from regular movement, we must issue a word of caution - pet parents of dogs that suffer from osteoarthritis should select their exercise type carefully. High impact exercise should be avoided in these dogs i.e. no running, jumping and no rough or unsupervised play. With these dogs all movements should be slow and controlled, such as controlled walking over cavalettis or walking on the leash down the street.
Exercise also affects the body on a chemical level. Endorphins such as serotonin and dopamine are produced by the brain during physical activity, which helps to improve mood. Some of these endorphins help to relieve the feeling of pain. In other words, exercise can DQ|2A
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Another important consideration is how much exercise is the right amount? It is important for you to pay attention to your dog. Ideally you want to work to fatigue, but not through fatigue. In other words, if your furry companion gets tired, you need to stop. Keep an eye on your dog’s body language, breathing and ability to perform the exercise. There is always a learning component at the start of an exercise, and your dog may struggle till he understands what is expected. Then his ability will improve and finally decline again. Then it will likely decline again. This second decline occurs because your dog is getting tired. Do not underestimate how difficult these exercises are, both physically and mentally. Don’t be tempted to push too hard; you do not want to cause an injury. In this case, slower is always better.
LEARNING HOW TO WALK FOR EXERCISE You want to slow your dog right down. When a dog walks it is a four-beat gait with three paws on the ground supporting the dog, at any given time. This is what we are aiming for. This may seem like a very basic exercise, but it becomes more important when we start to incorporate other functional exercises into your dog’s exercise programme. The faster your dog walks the easier it is to cheat, and the less benefit they will derive from the exercise. All the exercises that follow are done at this pace. There is no running, jumping or trotting in any of these exercises.
USE TREATS Treats can be used to help motivate your furry friend and we encourage you to use treats when exercising your dog. While we may want to help your dog lose some weight, you may find resistance to performing some of these activities if you don’t give treats. This resistance may be easily overcome with a couple of pieces of liver bread, some sausages or biltong. However, if you are trying to reduce your dog’s weight, you may reduce your dog’s meals slightly to compensate for the additional calories from treats.
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LEASH WALKING
The best exercise for managing pain in dogs is leash-walking. Depending on how painful or compromised your dog is, you can start with five to seven minutes of leash-walking on a relatively flat surface, two to three times per day. Depending on how much time you have at your disposal this may be increased to four or five times per day, but keep more frequent sessions down to five minutes per session. Continue this for one to two weeks. As your dog becomes fitter and stronger, in weeks three and four you may increase the duration of each of the walks to ten minutes, three to four times per day. In weeks five and six you may increase the duration to fifteen minutes two to three times per day. Thereafter you may build up to twenty or twenty-five minutes twice a day. Do not walk your compromised dog for long periods less frequently, this may cause an injury. Your dog will benefit far more from short durations done with greater frequency. After the first couple of weeks, you can start to include inclines in your sessions. If you have a little hill or driveway that is not too steep, you can start to walk your dog up and down the little hill. Walking up and down pavement embankments, in a wave-like pattern, alternating each side is also a good exercise. Varying the terrain on which you walk, such as moving your dog from grass to tar (make sure it’s not hot), to dirt, to gravel etc., will help to improve your dog’s ability to sense his limb, joint and body position. DQ|2A
D O G H E A LT H
CAVALETTIS
WEAVES
After two weeks of regular leash walking, you may incorporate cavalettis. Cavalettis are poles placed on the ground which your dog will walk over. The idea is for your dog to lift his feet over each of the poles and not to knock into them. Again, this exercise can be progressed by raising the height of the poles from the ground, as your dog becomes fitter and stronger. You will not want to raise these any higher than the middle of a compromised dog’s leg, keeping them well below the knee and elbow.
Place three or four cones, plant pots or similar items on the floor spaced at least one and a half to two metres apart. Use a treat and encourage your dog to weave through the cones - remember to keep it slow and controlled. Repeat in the other direction, to keep things balanced. This exercise can be progressed by moving the cones (or whatever you have chosen to use) closer together, as this creates a tighter bend.
Start with the poles further apart and as your dog becomes used to the exercise, you may bring the poles closer together.
SIT TO STAND Using a treat, ask your dog for a nice, square sit. In other words, your dog’s back paws should be planted squarely beneath his body. Now ask him to stand. When he stands, we want him to push up with his hind legs, instead of pulling himself up with his front legs. This exercise is like a squat for a human. You would not ask your unfit, eighty-year-old grandfather to do twenty squats and the same logic should apply with your dog. Take it slow, only perform a couple at a time and increase gradually as your dog’s strength improves.
Dr Tanya is hosting a five module online course where she will teach you about a number of modalities which you use to help manage pain in your animal companion.
CLICK HERE for more information.
ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD 154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni Contact: 083 230 2188 Email: animalhealths@gmail.com ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST 218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates Contact: 074 251 4410 Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com DQ|2A
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D O G H E A LT H
WINTER WORRIES KEEPING YOUR DOG WARM THIS WINTER
W
hilst temperatures never plummet to very low levels in South Africa, the change in temperature over winter remains fairly significant. Just like us, our dogs feel this drop and may need some help staying warm and healthy over winter.
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Here are our top ten tips for managing your dog in the cold weather this winter: 1. Provide a warm bed. You must ensure that your dog has a comfortable, warm bed out of any chilly drafts. Moving their bed off tiled flooring and onto warmer carpeted areas is also a good idea. For older or smaller dogs, ensure they have extra blankets and bedding to keep them warm and provide extra padding for joints. 2. Keep them moving. Winter is often a time when we all move less than we should, and this can have detrimental effects on our dog’s health. Despite the cold weather, it is important that we help keep their joints mobile and prevent weight gain. If necessary, you can use a dog coat to keep them warm. This is particularly useful for smaller, older or shorter-haired dogs.
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3. Limit time outside. Dogs can suffer from frostbite, especially on their ear flaps and tail tips. Whilst this would be unlikely in South Africa, we still need to be aware that our dogs can get very cold. Limit your dog’s time in cold weather and ensure that they get plenty of time indoors to warm up. 4. Consider age. Like humans, very young and very old dogs have difficulty regulating their body temperature, so they have more extreme reactions to cold weather. You need to bear this in mind and monitor these dogs carefully in colder weather. 5. Joint support. Dogs with arthritis or other joint issues will be worse affected in winter than summer. Cold weather aggravates these conditions making our dogs more sore than usual. Therefore, it can be a good idea to use ramps,
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lift their feed bowl, provide extra padding in their beds, and help them into the car where necessary. Of course, if your dog’s joint issues worsen dramatically in winter, you should seek assistance from your vet. 6. Paw care. Just like humans, dogs can suffer from cold feet. Those with hairy feet are susceptible to ice droplets forming between their toes, making them uncomfortable and sore. Therefore after every winter walk, it is important to check your dog’s paws and clean between their paw pads and toes with warm water to prevent salt and ice from causing irritation. In dogs with very long hair on their paws, you could consider trimming it for winter. 7. Nutrition. It is important to monitor your dog’s weight over winter. Most dogs are less active in winter than summer and spend more time sleeping than usual. This makes weight gain a genuine risk. Keep an eye on portion size and ensure that you adjust the diet accordingly if weight gain becomes an issue. 8. Dry them off. If your dog gets wet during cold weather, their muscles can go into spasm when they are trying to
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warm up, especially around the base of their tail. This can be an extremely painful experience for a dog, so always be sure to dry off your dog with a towel straight after a swim and allow them to warm up gradually. If your dog cannot wag their tail properly a few hours after getting wet, take them to your vet for a check-up, and, if needed, they will prescribe anti-inflammatories and pain killers to help reduce the discomfort. 9. Beware of ice. You need to take care that your dog does not lick cold or frozen surfaces. While dogs may enjoy the sensation of cold on their tongues, some have been known to get their tongue stuck to objects, damaging their tongues severely or leading to ice burns in the mouth. 10. Watch out for antifreeze. As little as a teaspoon of antifreeze can cause kidney failure in dogs. Keep antifreeze well out of reach of your dog. Signs of antifreeze ingestion include drooling, vomiting, seizures, excessive thirst, panting, lethargy and a drunken appearance. If you think your dog might have ingested antifreeze, you need to get to the vet as soon as possible.
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YOUR DOG QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Why does my dog scoot along the floor on his bum? When dogs rub their bottoms across the floor or grass (often called ‘scooting’), they are showing you that there is something wrong. Dogs may scoot to relieve itchiness associated with
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tapeworms or allergies around the anus. Long-haired dogs that have matted hair around the anus may scoot to try and ease the discomfort of this. Inflammation of the anal glands due to a failure to empty properly can also cause scooting, and in this case, you will need to visit your vet to have the glands expressed.
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Q&A
How many hours a day should my dog sleep?
Dogs require much more sleep than humans. However, the total amount of sleep a dog needs can vary depending on various factors. Of these factors, age is the most important and has the biggest impact on the amount of sleep required. Puppies: Research is limited in puppies, but one critical study showed that puppies sleep at least 11 hours per day.
Unfortunately for us, however, puppies tend to sleep less at night than adult dogs and instead sleep during the day! Adult dogs: Most adult dogs seem to need somewhere between eight and 13.5 hours of sleep every single day, with an average of just under 11 hours. Adults dogs tend to sleep longer at night than puppies do but will still take daytime naps. Senior dogs: Senior dogs tend to wake up less often overnight and sleep later in the morning. They also sleep more during the day with regular naps.
What colours can my dog see?
Cones are the cells in the eye that allow us to see colour. Humans have three types of cones in their eyes, but dogs only have two types. This means that humans can see a greater variety and more vibrant colours than dogs. However, dogs still see colour, just with less variety and vibrancy. The two types of cones that dogs do have enable them to see shades of yellow, blue and brown alongside black, white and grey. However, these cones don’t allow them to see shades of red or green, so a dog instead sees red and green as shades of brown or grey. As dogs don’t see red and green colours, opt for toys made in yellow and blue for your dog. These colours are seen brightly, so they are much more appealing. This is one reason why yellow tennis balls are so popular among dogs!
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Why does my dog dig at the carpet? Dogs, especially Terriers, are natural-born diggers. Sometimes they may be investigating a smell on the carpet, searching out a small forgotten piece of food, or attempting to create themselves a comfy place in which to sleep. If the carpet digging is problematic, give your dog more exercise, more time playing, and a digging pit outside to reduce the behaviour.
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best
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LIFE OF GEORGE
LIVE LIFE UNLEASHED
TEXT: GEORGE OF LIFE OF GEORGE FAME
– LESSONS FOR HUMANS TAUGHT BY DOGS
HOW A RESCUE DOG CHANGED OUR LIVES…
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om is one of those crazy early morning runners. She especially loves crisp autumn morning runs. Nearing the end of such a run, she suddenly became aware of a scrawny and flea and tick-infested little dog following her. Despite being the crack of dawn, she knew she couldn't leave this dog on the streets one moment longer. Her initial
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plan was to drop it off at one of the rescue centres once they opened. The sad ball of fur was swiftly bundled into the back of the car and taken home. I bounded out to greet mom and instinctively sniffed a notably foreign (and very smelly) dog on the backseat. Frankly, between you and me, I wasn't happy with this
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LIFE OF GEORGE
Gracie and George
AUTHOR: George Swainson – CEO Life of George and incredibly good-looking black Labrador foul-smelling rescue invading my territory. 'The rescue' was left on the back seat with food and water as she was simply too terrified to move. A little while later, Mom decided 'the rescue' would benefit from a warm bath and a bed. She assured me that she would then be dropping her off at the shelter…you can see where this is going… After bath time, 'the rescue' was allowed into the house. She slunk inside and under the dining room table, curling up into a small ball. Terrified. Amidst the usual household activities, she remained frozen in a tight ball, her eyes darting around, observing her new surroundings. For nearly 24 hours, she hid and slept under the table. Under the circumstances, if I had been homeless and finally had a nice warm bed to sleep on, I, too, would want to take a long nap. She was finally safe but absolutely exhausted, and we let her rest. Our little rescue was given the ‘temporary’ name Gracie. Over the next few days, she began decompressing and, as a result, grew in confidence; her tail slowly started to wag. Timidly she began to explore her surroundings and interact with us. Despite many viewings from potential dog parents, no one wanted Gracie, and to be honest, she had crept into our hearts. While we already had a full house, we couldn't let her go to a shelter. At this point, I would love to tell you that we all lived happily ever after, alas, this was not the reality to begin with. When adopting a stray, they often come with their own set of issues. Dustbin day triggered a very unfortunate habit in Gracie that we called the "The Great Escape". She would squeeze through the fence and rummage through our neighbour's rubbish, indiscriminately scattering it all over the road. She also had a problem understanding the
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demarcated area for ablutions, instead relieving herself on the leather couch and duvets and becoming especially partial to Dad's sock draw! Mom nearly tore her hair out as the house soon adopted a strong smell of urine! Despite a rocky start, with love and patience, Gracie eventually settled and has subsequently blossomed into a loving, loyal little creature. Humans, here are some of the lessons to be learnt when on a rescue mission: 1. Although Mom picked up a stray from the road, it is never advisable to do so because of the high number of rabies cases in our country. The best option is to phone your local shelter for assistance. If you absolutely must intervene, then make sure to wear full clothing and protective gloves. 2. Know that when you adopt a rescue, they will need time to adjust and settle. The general advice is that adopted dogs take three days to decompress, three weeks to know your routine, and three months to start to feel at home. Even then, you still may have behavioural challenges that you might have to work through. 3. Be firm and consistent in your training while maintaining routines. This will allow your rescue to settle and find their place within your family. Until every dog has a home, we will need rescue-dog moms and dads to step forward. Going out of your way to help an animal (or person) isn't often convenient. It usually requires sacrifice and typically costs time, money, or both. However, in the case of Gracie, the reward of unwavering loyalty and love far outweighed the cost. While we didn't go looking for her, Gracie adds a deeper dimension of love to our family, and we are better with her as part of it.
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NEXT ISSUE 15TH JULY 2022
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