vol.
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An Ode to Vatnsdalsá river
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Designer Tinna Bergmann
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Witchcraft & Sorcery
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T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
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Getting Into the Festive Spirit
Yo ur
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co py
Reykjavík is the ultimate Christmas city
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running free
Photograper Gígja Einarsdóttir captures the grace, and gentle nature of the Icelandic horse
Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
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Contents from the editor
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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
Costly and Stupid
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he minister of industry and commerce, Ragnheiður Elín Árnadóttir, is promoting legislation that would require both Icelanders and visitors from abroad to purchase a special “nature passport” if they want to travel in the central highlands or visit Iceland’s national parks. This is a terrible idea. For the last several years, annual tourist arrivals to Iceland have risen steadily with a year-on-year growth of over 20 percent. There will be more than one million tourists this year, which is more than triple the whole population of Iceland. This added traffic has put pressure on some of Iceland’s most popular travel sites, as well as those in isolated areas where the preservation of the natural environment is more difficult but still essential. The government has been fairly criticized for not responding by providing adequate facilities. The minister’s scheme is intended to raise money for such tou rism-related projects and possibly for general infrastructure pro grams in the country. Both domains certainly need and deserve better focus and funds from the government. So what’s not to like? First, the right to travel freely around the country has been protected by Icelandic law for centuries. If you travel on foot and do not leave any marks behind, your right in most instances is superior to the right of the owner of the land. This right stretches all the way back to a 13th-cent ury law book called Járnsíða (Ironside). New laws and codes on the environment are in part based on this ancient document. So, the minister is facing an acrimonious fight to get Icelanders to relinquish what many consider a sacred birthright. Former finance minister, now parliamentarian and a member of the oppo sition, Steingrímur J. Sigfússon, has already stated that he would rather go to jail than pay for being in Iceland’s wilderness. Second, this will create a new level of bureaucracy and cost. But the Icelandic Travel Industry Association has already suggested a sensible solution. Simply raise the existing lodging occupancy tax. This would provide a major source of revenue that could be allocated entirely to tourism-related projects. An arrival tax could also do the trick. Hopefully the minister will come to her senses. Can you imag ine an army of “nature passport” inspectors hunting for freeload ers in the central highlands? Yes, total madness.
32 Contents 6-18 Lookout 6 Anglers ode to a river 8 The little corner shop 10 Beer Spa Sleeping companion Lulla doll 12 Deepest blue ice cave 14 Tinna’s designs 16-18 Fermented skate, the Icelandic Yule lads, Christmas songs and more highlights ahead. 20 All the Pretty Horses Photographer Gígja Einarsdóttir’s beautiful images of the Icelandic horse have received much attention, locally and internationally. Her photographs capture the strength, grace, and gentle nature of the animals. 26 Dark Times Revisited In the quaint fishing village of Hólmavík stands the Museum of Icelandic Witchcraft and Sorcery. Curator Sigurður Atlason’s knowledge of local folklore and history is vast and inexhaustible. 32 101 Festive Spirits The holiday season in downtown Reykjavík, music, food, shopping and the Yule lads, all thirteen of them.
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Gígja Einarsdóttir, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Kata Kapitain, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: A portrait of a horse, see feature p. 20. Photo by Gígja Einarsdóttir. Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
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42 Iceland Magazine Explains Opening hours for stores and businesses during Christmas; Watching English Premier League games in Reykjavík; Does it get very cold in Iceland? Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
46 My Christmas traditions: Oranges & Cinnamon Actress Svandís Dóra Einarsdóttir gets into the Christmas spirit when she and her sisters meet up the day before the first Sunday of Advent, to make their own Christmas decorations, bake cookies, and drink hot chocolate.
SOUVENIR SHOP SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012
Merry Christmas & happy new year
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
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Vatnsdalsá river The fishing lodge Flóðvangur nestles under the Vatnsdalshólar hillocks, and behind them is Lake Hóp. Notice the group of horses, to the right, grazing on the banks of the river. Photo/Einar Falur Ingólfsson
An Ode to a River A new book, named Vatnsdalsá after its subject, tells the story of one of the most beautiful rivers in Iceland, where salmon and trout are plentiful.
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atnsdalsá river is known in Iceland and among serious anglers around the world for its big, strong salmon. The river is also renowned for its strict catch-and-release rule. All salmon caught in Vatnsdalsá are released back to nature. One of the main architects of this rule is Pétur Pétursson, who became Vatnsdalsá’s leaseholder and guardian in 1997. Pétur is the publisher of this beautiful book, available in Icelandic and English, which tells the story of angling in Vatnsdalur valley, Northwest Iceland, from the first settlements in the country to modern times. The authors are photographer Einar Falur Ingólfsson, broadcast journalist Þorsteinn J., and painter Sigurður Árni
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The home of the river is of one of the most awe-in spiring areas you will find in Iceland.
Sigurðsson, who are all avid sport fisher men. The trio spent four years on the project, interviewing many anglers, farmers, leaseholders, and guides about the river, and recording fishing advent ures from both past and recent times. The book also contains interesting stories about life in Vatnsdalur valley through history. It has a new map of the river and many stunning photographs of the surroundings, the natural beauty of the valley, and anglers searching for and fight ing powerful salmon, trout, and char. The home of the river is of one of the most awe-inspiring areas you will find in Iceland. Englishman Lionel S. Fortesque, a Vatnsdalsá leaseholder from the last
The book Vatnsdalsá is available in the Eymundsson bookshops in Iceland and in selected angling and hunting stores.
century, advised anglers that if the catch was poor and they were bored, “then go up to Forsæludalur valley and sit there and look at the landscape. I have never seen a more beautiful place. It’s Paradise up there.”
You can also buy the book online at www.vatnsdalsa.is
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Photo/Kata Kapitain.
corner shop
In the neighbourhood Professional basketball player Pavel Ermolinskij and two friends opened a little shop on the corner of Bergstaðastræti and Spítalastígur in November.
The Little Corner Shop When basketball player Pavel Ermolinskij and two friends spotted a vacant corner shop in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, they jumped at the chance to open a small fish and meat shop. They also sell a range of vegetables, bread, and other products such as rice and spaghetti.
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avel, who plays for the Icelandic na tional basketball team and KR in Reykjavík, told Iceland Magazine that it was certainly a big decision, since none of them had ever run a shop before. “All three of us are great gourmets who just happened upon this lovely space that practically screamed ‘shop on the corner’ at us,” Pavel explains. The little shop is located on the corner of Berg staðastræti and Spítalastígur and opened for busi ness on November 1, to the great delight of local residents who have shown the trio much support. “The customers seem happy to finally have a shop like this in the neighbourhood. Many have told us that they prefer being able to shop locally instead of having to drive to a market. Their en couragement and support means the world to us.” The trio wanted to create a space that, although new and modern, had an old-fashioned vibe about it – the kind that gives the customer the
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feeling that the shop had been there for sixty years. They spent much time and effort creating the right ambiance and, Pavel says, they are very happy with the results. At first, the product selection was limited, but has grown considerably as time goes by. Pavel explains that they listen carefully to their cust omers’ wishes and try to respond to them quickly.
provide it. We also work closely with our neigh bours at Snaps restaurant up the road and are proud to sell their plokkfiskur (Icelandic fish hash) and other delicious dishes.” The employees are currently busy getting ready for Christmas and plan to stock up on all the holiday favourites, including twice-smoked leg of lamb – a delicacy all Icelanders love.
“All three of us are great gourmets who just happened upon this lovely space that practically screamed ‘shop on the corner’ at us.” “The first week after we opened we had a lot of clients asking for osso buco. We were quick off the mark and now offer lovely pieces of osso buco that sell like hot cakes. The shop is very ‘demand-supply’ oriented: they ask for it, we
“Our meat counter will be chock-full of all the Christmas favourites soon. We’ll also offer cat ering to private groups – we’ll arrive at the loca tion and cook up a festive storm for people,” he concludes with a smile. -SM
WOR N OU T FOR CE N T U R IE S
– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –
Iceland Mag / vol. #10 2014
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Photo/Rúnar Þór
Lookout
A Sleeping Companion Photo/Rúnar Þór
The Icelandic Lulla doll has gathered world-wide attention for its ability to soothe and calm babies
Bathe in Beer Visitors at the Kaldi micro-brewery in North Iceland will soon be able to bathe in the beer.
Bathe in Kaldi craft beer The micro-brewery Bruggsmiðjan in Árskógssandur, North Iceland, plans to extend its business and open a small restaurant and a spa modeled after the popular Czech beer baths.
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he brewery was founded by husband and wife Ólafur Þröstur Ólafsson and Agnes Sigurðardóttir in 2005. They pro duce around 550 thousand liters (145 thousand gallons) of beer every year and receive around eight to ten thousand guests at the brewery. Over the years, their Kaldi beer has become a favorite among beer connoisseurs, both local and international. Czech beer baths
THE LULLA DOLL Imitating the closeness of a caregiver. Photo/Roro.is
date back to the Middle Ages, when people would bathe in warm mineral water mixed with beer and other ingredients used for brewing beer. The baths are thought to greatly benefit one’s health According to Agnes, their plan is to mix the beer with seawater to create the ultimate spa experience. www.bruggsmidjan.is
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nternational magazines such as Vogue and blogs have written praise about the Lulla doll, calling it absolutely amazing. The dolls were born from the desire to help prematurely born babies to cope with separation from their parents who have to leave their child during the night. The doll is a sleeping companion that imitates the closeness of a
caregiver by playing a real-life recording of the parent’s breat hing and heartbeat at rest. This can help pacify a baby resulting in longer and better sleep. The doll, designed by start-up company Roro, is made of soft natural cotton and when the chest is pressed, it will play a soothing recording that calms the baby.
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• Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is
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The Deep Blue Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson When ice has been pressured and sheltered from direct sunlight its colour is not white, but the fantastic luminous blue that you see in this photo, captur ed in an ice cave in Breiðamerkurjökull, an outlet glacier in Vatnajökull, Ice land’s largest ice cap. Glaciers cover almost 10 percent of the country, and ice caves can be found in several different locations in most of them. One of the best places to explore ice caves is the southern part of Vatnajökull, where Breiðamerkur jökull is located, not far from the magical Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. A glacial cave with ice sculptures carved out by nature is a breathtaking place, but ice caves should only be accessed with experienced local guides. Glaciers are constantly on the move and falling ice can be lethal. - JK
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Lookout
Born in Iceland and Built in London
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Icelandic designer Tinna Bergmann Jónsdóttir founded the fashion brand Tiaber in 2012. She recently launched the brand’s very first collection.
Tinna Bergmann Jónsdóttir graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in Fashion De sign from the De Montfort University in Leicester, UK, two years ago, and shortly after, began to lay the foundation for her fashion brand Tiaber. She has now launched her first collection, inspir ed by her Icelandic roots and her adop tive hometown, London. Tinna, a “Reykvíkingur” born and bred, began her career in the beauty and fashion industry as a hairdresser. However, her passion has always been clothing design so, at the tender age of
The designer Tinna Bergmann Jónsdóttir is the designer and owner of Tiaber. On the left is her boyfriend Luke, a graphic designer.
designer to have a good understanding of pattern cutting and the construction behind each design. After graduating in 2012, I began to focus on Tiaber. I always say ‘good things take time’ and I wanted to make sure I launched when it felt right. It took a good 3.5 years to really develop the concept of the brand and create what felt right—and of course, to save up money!” What’s the concept behind Tiaber? “Tiaber is all about effortless modern comfort with fresh but timeless day and night suiting. I´m a true believer in easyto-wear clothing, items you can wear from morning till evening, with your Converse trainers or heels! I design what I want to wear. I believe in quality, comfort, attention to detail, and by-pro duct leathers. I believe in being true to yourself.” On your website it says the brand was “born in Iceland and built in London.” Do you seek inspiration from both places when you design collections?
nineteen, she packed her bags and moved to England to study fashion design. Tiaber’s SS15 collection oozes cool and comfort. Tinna mixes elements from clean, WASP-inspired clothing and loose-fitting sportswear to create a femin ine yet ultra-cool look. Crisp shirts look pretty paired with feminine suit pants and blazers.
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What inspired your first collection, the SS15 collection? “My concept for SS15 encapsulates the raw, unabashed, Icelandic landscape, with cuts inspired by ancient Japanese takumi (the Japanese notion of crafts manship). I’ve always been very inspired by Japanese street style. The Japanese public seems to have mastered the bal ance between comfort and creative styl ing—something I think Icelanders are also very good at.” Where can one get one’s hands on Tiaber design? “Tiaber is currently available at the Avant Premier Pop-Up Store on Effie Road in Fulham, London. We are also taking pre-orders at sales@tiaber. com. Hopefully it will be available in stores in Iceland shortly as well.”
When did you decide to establish your own fashion brand and why? “I had the idea of starting Tiaber in my first year in university—I always had that vision. I deliberately used my time at university to experiment with design and create and learn as much as I could— technically too. I made sure I designed pieces with different technical elements and a variety of fabrics, so I really learned a lot. I think it’s very important as a
“Definitely. Moving to England quite young and on my own has definitely shaped me as a designer. Naturally, I’m always very inspired by Iceland and my roots, especially when it comes to fabric and texture, but also regarding colour. The SS15 collection is very minimal in colour, blacks, navies, and some offwhites. The inspiration for the colour scheme came from Icelandic nature and atmosphere. The short winter days in Iceland are definitely close to my heart!”
Iceland meets Japan The concept for SS15 encapsulates the raw, unabashed, Icelandic landscape, with cuts inspired by ancient Japanese takumi. Photo/Íris Björk
All about comfort Tiaber is all about effortless modern comfort, with fresh but timeless day and night suiting, says the brand’s founder and designer Tinna Bergmann Jónsdóttir Photo/Íris Björk
www.sales@tiaber.com.
Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley. The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl Iceland Mag / vol. #10 2014
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Lookout highlights ahead
Christmas on a farm Bjarteyjarsandur farm is beautifully situated between rolling mountain hills and the seafront in the scenic Hvalfjörður fjord. Three families raise livestock on the farm, run a shop where they sell their produce directly to consumers, offer accommodation and allow visitors to partake in every-day tasks on the farm. Before Christmas they offer a special holiday menu for groups, including delicious crab and mussel soup, hand-made sausages and smoked leg of lamb, home-made ham cured in salt, sugar and herbs and home-made ice cream. Booking through arnheidur@bjarteyjarsandur.is or tel: 433-8831
Hot chocolate, Christmas trees and family fun
How much: Free for children, adults over 18 years of age pay 1000 krónur.
Experience an old fashioned Christmas Anyone in the mood for an old fashioned Christmas are advised to visit the Árbæjarsafn Open Air Museum in Reykjavík where visitors get a chance to experience Christmas as it was long ago. This includes the preparation of traditional Icelandic Christmas food and crafts such as candle making. Traditional Christmas sweets will be on offer in the old General Store, hot chocolate is served at the Museum’s coffee shop and the Yule Lads will pay a visit to entertain the youngest guests. Admission fee for adults is 1300 krónur (8 euros/ 10 US dollars) but free for children.
When: Every weekend from 11 am until 4 pm.
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
When: December 7th, 14th and 21st between 1pm and 5pm.
Enjoying the aroma Local fish merchants with this year’s catch.
A Delicacy Like No Other
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hat is, however, by no means the popular opinion. Few things create a wider rift in the nation than the tra dition involving this ammonia-smell ing dish, which has been described as eating rotten fish. Happily, for those who can’t stomach it, only a handful of Icelanders eat it year round. However, on December 23rd there is almost no escape for those who do not appreciate fermented skate. This day is called Þorláksmessa (Mass of Saint Þorlákur).
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The thirteen Yule Lads visit Dimmuborgir, near Mývatn in North Iceland, every year before Christmas. The brothers gather at Hallarflöt daily to meet and greet children, sing, dance and have some fun. When: Until December 31st between 1 pm and 3 pm.
Enjoy the wonderful annual Christmas Markets on Elliðavant lake on the outskirts of Reykjavík. This romantic market kicked off on November 29 and will take place every weekend until Christmas Eve. At the market one can purchase hand-made goods, Icelandic Christmas trees and firewood. Hot chocolate, coffee and cakes are sold in the nearby café located in the old Elliðavatnsbær farm and the Yule Lads arrive at 1.30 pm to entertain the young ones.
For those uninitiated it might be hard to swallow, but fermented skate is con sidered a great delicacy in Iceland.
Meet the Dimmuborgir Yule Lads
It marks the beginning of Christmas in Iceland and is celebrated by eating this smelly fish. Avoiding restaurants or skate-parties at homes does not do the trick. It’s almost certain you will, while shopping for the last Christmas presents, run into some one carrying the fumes in his clothes. It’s either that or the person has not bathed for weeks! Contrary to what many think, love for fermented skate is not isolated to Iceland. It’s also big in South Korea, where it is even pre pared as a sashimi. Now that is a real challenge!
KK and Ellen The siblings will perform at the Settlement Centre on December 19.
Christmas concert with KK and Ellen Musicians and siblings Krist ján Kristjánsson, known by his stage name KK, and Ellen Kristjánsdóttir perform at the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes on December 19. KK and Ellen will perform Christmas music that will get you into a festive mood. The concert begins at 8:30 pm and entrance is 3,000 ÍSK (EUR19/ USD24).
Iceland Magazine / vol. #10 2014
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Lookout Yule Lads
Meet the Icelandic Santa Clauses Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson
Each of the thirteen Icelandic Yule Lads will visit the National Museum of Iceland (Suðurgata 42) daily between December 12 and 24 at 11 am.
The Yule Lads will wear their traditional garb for the occasion and will entertain children with song and dance. The Yule Lads were portrayed in local folklore as being mischievous pranksters, but have taken on a more amicable role in later years. The first Yule Lad to head into town is Stekkjastaur, known as Sheep-Cote Clod in English. He’s followed by his brother Gully Gawk. The last brother to arrive is Candle Beggar, who arrives in town on Christmas Eve. For more information on the mischievous brothers, go to p. 32-40.
www.thjodminjasafn.is Door Slammer and his brothers visit children at the National Museum of Iceland in December every year.
The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.
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At Joe & the Juice we serve your favourite coffee, fresh vitamin-rich juice and probably the yummiest toasted sandwiches in town. Swing by, we have just what you need.
YOU'LL FIND US AT KRINGLAN AND SMÁRALIND SHOPPING CENTRES
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All the Pretty Horses Photographer Gígja Einarsdóttir’s beautiful images of the Icelandic horse have received much attention, locally and internationally. Her photographs capture the strength, grace, and gentle nature of the animals. Words by Sara McMahon
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ígja Einarsdóttir has been around horses all her life. She worked as a horse trainer for some years before changing course to study photography. Currently she works as a journalist and photographer for Eiðfaxi, Iceland’s leading equestrian magazine. What makes Gígja’s photographs so beautiful and exceptional is that she manages to not only capture the horse’s beauty but also its character. “I suppose being a horse trainer helps. But the job also requires a lot of patience – I’ll often sit out in a field, completely still, for hours on end, waiting for the perfect moment to present itself,” she explains. Her father’s beautifully colored horses are among her favorite subjects but she also travels the country in search of new “mo dels.”“My father’s horses are extraordinarily beautiful! One image of our old mare, Ísold, has traveled far and wide. It was printed on T-shirts for H&M and on linen, and recently, when I
“Most of the people who contact me don’t own horses, so it seems as though the furry little Icelandic horse has charmed the pants off of people all over the world.”
was in the US, I saw the photograph, which had been printed on canvas, for sale in Target.” Gígja’s photographs are especially popular among foreigners who seem fascinated by the small, adorable Icelandic horse. According to Gígja, she gets many inquiries from people abroad who wish to buy her work. “Most of the people who contact me don’t own horses, so it seems as though the furry little Icelandic horse has charmed the pants off of people all over the world,” she says, punctuating the sentence with a laugh. Gígja published the photography book Horses of Iceland in 2013. The 144-page book includes a wide range of photographs of horses in their natural environment and is available in four lang uages: Icelandic, English, German, and Danish. Gígja is currently working on her second book which, according to her, will feature more “artistic” photographs of horses. “I don’t have a publication date yet. At the moment I’m just slowly but steadily gathering enough photographs for the next book,” she concludes.
Talented Photographer Gígja Einarsdóttir’s beautiful images capture the strength, grace, and gentle nature of the Icelandic horse. Photo/Gígja Einarsdóttir
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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration
With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.
All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com
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Dark Times Revisited Imagine a place where time stands still, where the uncanny lurks behind every rock and hillock, and where nature still prevails in all its glory. This is Strandir, one of the most remote areas in Iceland, where, in the 17th century, twenty-one people were executed for practicing magic. Words by Sara McMahon
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n the quaint fishing village of Hólmavík stands the Museum of Icelandic Witchcraft and Sorcery. Curator Sigurður Atlason’s know ledge of local folklore and history is vast and inexhaustible. His right hand and closest confidante is a handsome British Shorthair named Hippó (the breed that was the inspiration for Tenniel’s illustration of the Cheshire cat in Alice in Wonderland). Together they have become legends in their own time.
In the beginning … The exhibition at the Museum of Ice landic Sorcery and Witchcraft combines interesting historical facts about the grim events of the Icelandic witch hunts with local folklore linked to the supernatural. The museum was rated one of the ten best museums in Iceland in 2014 by satisfied
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TripAdvisor users. This is the second time the museum has received such an award and for that Siggi is thankful. “Our museum is somewhat off the beat en track, which makes this even more of a feat. Running the museum has been a challenge – this is the first year since we opened that we’ve been able to hire staff all year around. We’ve finally become a solid business,” he says with a smile. It all began in 1996 when the Stranda sýsla District Committee discussed how they could lure more travelers to the re mote area. One of the ideas proposed was to create an exhibition that would focus on the witch hunts that took place in 17th-century Iceland. The first part of the extensive exhibition, the Museum itself, opened on Midsummer’s Night in 2000. The second part of the exhibition, called Kotbýli kuklarans, opened at Klúka, near
Bjarnarfjörður, in 2005 and is dedicated to the poor tenants of that time, focusing on the magic they practiced in order to try and make their lives more bearable. Most of the people accused of witchcraft were from this class. “It’s important to visit Klúka after having visited the Museum of Sorcery. This part of the museum allows guests to experience the harsh conditions many Icelanders lived in at that time,” explains Siggi. The two final parts of the exhibition have yet to be created. They will be a memorial in Trékyllis vík, where most of the executions took place, and a documentary about the gruesome events.
“By the end of summer I’d partied all my money away and couldn’t afford the bus fare back to Reykjavík. So I stayed.”
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“People came rushing through the doors, demanding to know whether this was the home of the necro pants shown on the BBC.”
The horror! The museum’s most popular object is the macabre “nábrækur”, or necropants, which are magical pants made by skinning a dead man from the waist down, featured in several old Icelandic folk tales. By placing a coin inside the scrotum of the pants, the wearer was guar anteed an endless flow of money. Renowned stage designer Árni Páll Jóhannsson created the necropants and the museum’s other relics. The pants have gained worldwide attention, with British comedian Stephen Fry even featuring them on his BBC quiz show, QI. “The show caused havoc,” Siggi admits. “People came rushing through the doors, de manding to know whether this was the home of the necropants shown on the BBC.” However, given the nature of the pants, not everyone is a fan. Some guests are in fact quite disgusted by the necropants. But don’t worry! According to Siggi, no one has ever attempted to create necropants. “Whenever someone asks me whether they are real or whether a pair ever existed, I’m forced to tell the truth: Necropants have only ever exist ed in local folk legends.”
The famous necropants The magical pants are made by skinning a dead man from the waist down and the wearer was guaranteed an endless flow of money. Photo/Sigurður Atlason
Still saving up to go back home Siggi, the man behind the museum, was born and raised in Reykjavík, moving to his adoptive home-town in his early teens. He first came to Hólmavík to visit his older brother who was working there for the summer. “I was only going to stay a fortnight, but those two weeks proved to be so much fun that I decided to stay on. By the end of summer I’d partied all my money away and couldn’t afford the bus fare back to Reykjavík. So I stayed. One could say that I’m still saving up for my fare back home,” he says, giving a hearty laugh.
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His life-long interest in local folklore, he says, came from the stories his grandmot her told him when he was a child. When he got older, he read Jón Árnason’s col lections of Icelandic folk tales and legends whenever he got the chance, favoring tales about trolls and hidden people. “My fascination with these stories and the reality behind them made me extrem ely afraid of the dark as a child. On the other hand, they made spending time out doors that much more fun. I know very little about local flora and fauna, but I do know the stories linked to every rock, hill and tussock.”
Living legends Sigurður Atlason, known as Siggi, and his friend Hippó the cat, have become legends in their own time. Photo/Björn Árnason
! e m o c l We
g, in k o o c l a n o ti a rn te in d n a ic d Icelan ame! g e th f o e m a n e th is g in k o o where c 5 best: Tables at the Top
rtrait Restaurant The Pearl (Reykjavik), The Po ), Tower Top (London), Sirrocco (Bangkok (París). (Zanzibar) & Maison Blanche Independent Online
Top 10 world’s
revolving restaurants — No. 1, The Pearl English CNTV
12 places to see before you die — No. 5, The Pearl Modern Times
World’s top revolving restaurants — No. 2, The Pearl Travel+Leisure
Congratulation 1st
We congratulate Stefán Elí Stefánsson, our head chef for his place in the “Taste of France” competition. Held in Reykjavik in spring 2014.
rlan.is · perlan@perlan.is pe w. ww · 00 02 2 56 4) 35 (+ Iceland Mag / vol. #10 2014 I The Pearl Restaurant · Tel.
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Homegrown mussels The infamous necropants are not the only thing that attracts visitors; the museum’s restaurant has become famous for serving delicious homegrown mussels, and Hippó, Siggi’s partner in crime, is also a big draw. Siggi adopted Hippó the cat from a lady living in the Strandir region, and the two have become inseparable friends. Hippó follows Siggi to and from work each day, and now serves as the museum’s administrator as well as overseeing the museum’s charity department that collects donations for Kattholt, a cat shelter in Reykjavík. “Hippó is a unique character and brings much joy to those who meet him. Some visitors come specifically to meet Hippó – he’s become famous. But fame doesn’t come cheap, it has turned him into something of a diva. Nowadays he won’t
pose for pictures unless he’s in the mood for it.” The small restaurant in the front of the museum opened in 2009 and is renowned for its specialty: mussels grown in Stein grímsfjörður fjord. Siggi admittedly enjoys pottering around in the kitchen and does much of the cooking himself. “I’ve always enjoyed dabbling in cook ing and one simply can’t go wrong when you’re handed such a delicious product. They are a joy to serve,” Siggi says. What: The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft Where: Hólmavík, Northwest Iceland. When: Every day, all year around.
Visit www.galdrasyning.is
The Icelandic Witch Hunt: Uppvakningur is the Icelandic version of a zombie.
During the 17th century, twenty-one Icelanders were burnt at the stake for practicing magic. Those condemned were mostly sorcerers who were accused of using magic runes. The first person to be burned as a sorcerer was Jón Rögnvaldsson, who was charged with raising a ghost to cause harm to people and livestock. In 1654, three people were executed in Trékyllisvík cove in the Strandir area. The Icelandic witch craze took place much later than in Europe and was imported to the country by members of the ruling class who had been educated in Denmark and Germany. What made the Icelandic witch hunts unique was the fact that most of those ac cused of witchery were men. Of approxi mately 120 trials, only 10 involved women and of the 22 people burned as witches, only 1 was a woman.
Uppvakningur is the Icelandic version of a zombie. Sorcerers would wake ghosts up from the dead and have them do their evil biddings. Uppvakningar would often stay with the same family from generation to generation causing harm to them and their livestock. Photo/Sigurður Atlason
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HAVE A GOOD ONE!
Steikhúsið / The Steakhouse — Tryggvagata 4-6 — 101 Reykjavík Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is
w w w. s t e a k . i s
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Festive Spirit In international slang, the number 101 is a reference to basic information, or a basic level of understanding, about a subject. In Iceland however, the number is associated with downtown Reykjavík, being the postal code for the area. Here we bring you both sides of 101, introducing the holiday season in the center of the capital.
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The center of attention You can create a festive program for December revolving around the Hallgríms kirkja church. Built on Skólavörðuholt hill, Reykjavík’s most prominent landmark towers 75 meters (244 feet) over the downtown. On top, you have an observation tower, with probably the best view of the capital and surrounding mountains. The church dome is blessed with great acoustics and Iceland’s largest organ, a grand German Klais, which attracts many of the world’s best organists. You can experience both at several concerts in the month of December (see schedule at hallgrimskirkja.is). On New Year’s Eve, the square in front of the church is the place to visit if fireworks are your thing (more about that later in this list). The church and the tower are open 9 am to 5 pm. Admission for the tower is 700 ÍSK for adults and 100 ÍSK for children.
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The thirteen Yule Lads come but once a year
More music The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra’s Christmas concerts have become part of many Icelanders holiday traditions. This year’s concerts include holiday favourites, Christmas classics and classical ballet music and will be interpreted in Icelandic sign language.
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It‘s that time of year again, and with it come the thirteen Yule Lads, a mischievous bunch who head down from their mountain dwellings in midDecember.
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Christmas window displays
he Icelandic Yule Lads (Jólasveinarnir) are a lessrefined Icelandic version of Santa Claus. The thirteen lads are the offspring of two hideously ugly trolls named Grýla and Leppalúði and were portrayed in national folklore as being mischievous pranksters. However, in later years, the Yule Lads have taken on a more amicable role and in the 20th century, the Yule Lads began to wear red clothing, similar to that of their American counterpart, but will occasionally wear more traditional clothing resembling the Icelandic national costume. Every night from December 12 until Christmas Eve, one Yule Lad will come to town and leave little gifts for well-behaved children who have placed a shoe on the window sill. Naughty ones will, however, wake up to find a potato in theirs. The thirteen brothers all have very descriptive names reflecting either their nature or the prank they play.
Reykjavík has adorned itself for the holiday season. While walking through town stop to take in the creative and inspirational window displays on Reykjavík‘s two main thoroughfares, Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur. It is sure to get you into a festive mood!
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Keep an eye out for the Yule Lads As Christmas approaches the Icelandic Yule Lads head into town. The weeks before Christmas Eve one can expect to see one, or more, Yule Lad parading around town in their festive costume. Also, keep an eye out for the amusing animated Yule Lads that bedeck the walls of numerous buildings in down-town Reykjavík.
December 12: Stekkjastaur, named Sheep-Cote Clod in English, is the first Yule Lad to head into town. Stekkjastaur was known to try and drink milk straight from the ewe’s teat, but was impaired by his stiff legs. December 13: Giljagaur, known as Gully Gawk, hid in gullies, waiting for an opportunity to sneak into cowsheds and steal milk.
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There is something fantastic about dipping into a hot outdoor pool in the middle of a crazy winter blizzard. The Sundhöllin swimming pool, close to Hallgrímskirkja church, is a beautiful indoor swimming pool, with outdoor hot tubs. During frosty, clear nights in this darkest of months, you can unwind in the hot water and enjoy some star-gazing. And if you are lucky you can even catch the magnificent Northern Lights.
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Photo/Þjóðminjasafnið.
Hot water & stargazing
December 14: Stúfur, or Stubby, is abnormally short. He used to steal pans from the kitchen to eat the crust left on them.
101 Festive Spirit December 15: Þvörusleikir, Spoon Licker, was known to steal wooden spoons (þvara in Icelandic) to lick the scraps off them.
Photo/Þjóðminjasafnið.
December 16: Pottasleikir, also known as Pottaskefill, stole leftovers from pots. His name translates as Pot Scraper.
December 17: Askasleikir, called Bowl Licker, would hide under beds and wait for members of the household to place their bowls (known as askur) on the floor, which he would then swipe.
Mass in Icelandic or English To experience a church service or a mass in a language that you don’t understand can be a soulful experience, but the neighborhood churches also offer services in English and other languages. Iceland’s only Catholic church, Christ the King Cathedral, is located in a beautiful building at Hávallagata 14-16. Lutherans can choose between three churches in the area: the aforementioned Hallgrímskirkja and the small Reykjavík Cathedral at Austurvöllur square are owned by the National Evangelical Lutheran Church (to which 80% of Iceland’s population belong), and the Free Church in Reykjavík, an independent congregation stationed in a lovely old wood and corrugated iron church by Lake Tjörnin (the Pond).
December 18: Hurðaskellir means Door Slammer. As the name suggests, this Yule Lad likes nothing better than to slam doors at night time. December 19: Skyrgámur, or Skyr Gobbler, is crazy about “skyr,” a traditional Icelandic dairy product resembling yogurt.
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Eat, drink and be merry The annual Christmas buffets, known as “jólahlaðborð” in Icelandic, are a huge part of the Icelandic Christmas celebrations. Come November, many restaurants and hotels will offer Christmas buffets that include seasonal dishes to spread the Yuletide cheer. The food is frequently accompanied by a shot of snaps or specially brewed Christmas beer. Gleðileg jól!
Have yourself a lovely, little Christmas… dinner Jóhannes Jóhannesson, head chef at the popular Slippbar restaurant located in Hotel Marina, has been cooking professionally for over a decade and is among the country’s leading chefs. Jóhannes, also known as Jói, was willing to share his favourite Christmas recipes with Iceland Magazine. What inspires you when you put together a Christmas menu for Slippbar? “My mother and my grandmothers are fantastic cooks who greatly inspire me. I love putting a modern twist on traditional dishes.” What do you and your family have for Christmas dinner? “My mother’s gravlax and gravlax-sauce are special Christmas fixtures. The main course, however, is changeable. One year it might be ptarmigan, the next it could be reindeer. Another fixture is the dessert: I always do my mother’s sherry fromage.” What‘s your favourite Christmas tradition? “One of my favourite traditions is getting together to make ‘laufabrauð’ – paper-thin, fried bread decorated with leaf-life patterns and traditionally eaten at Christmas – eating ris á l’amande, pickled herring, mum’s gravlax, and rinsing it down with a good Christmas beer.”
Appetizer – Herring with eggs, butter cream, and capers vinaigrette 1 jar of pickled herring 10 small potatoes, boiled 2 Tbs of grainy mustard 2 boiled eggs (diced)
Brown butter cream 2 soft boiled eggs (boiled for around 4 minutes) 150 gr beurre noisette (at room temperature) Salt and apple vinegar The butter is heated until brown and then removed from the heat. Boil eggs for 4 minutes. Put the eggs into a blender and then add the butter (when it has reached room temperature!). Add salt and apple vinegar to taste.
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Sour onion 6 shallot onions 1 dL white vinegar 1dL water 1 dL sugar Cut the onion into thin rings, place into a jar. Boil water, vinegar, and sugar, and pour over the onion.
Capers vinaigrette 1 dL olive oil 4 Tbs capers 1 shallot onion (finely diced) Juice of half a lemon Salt Stir all the ingredients together The potatoes are diced and dressed with the grainy mustard, a dash of olive oil and salt.
Mashed celery root ½ celery root ¼ L cream ¼ L water 50 gr butter Apple vinegar Salt Dice the celery root, boil it in the water, and cream until soft. Place into blender and blitz until it becomes smooth. Add the butter and then add vinegar and salt to taste.
Dessert - Mom’s sherry fromage
My mother’s gravlax and gravlax-sauce are special Christmas fixtures. The main course, however, is changeable.”
2 eggs 100 gr sugar 1 dL medium dry sherry 2,5 sheets of gelatin50 gr grated chocolate 3 dL cream Whip the egg yolks and sugar together, add the sherry and melted gelatin. Beat the egg whites till stiff, then add the whipped cream. Finally gently fold the melted chocolate into the mix. Place ground French macaroons in a bowl, drizzle some sherry over them, and mix in some cowberry jam. Spread the cream mixture on top and let rest in a cool place. Serve with a bit of ground chocolate and cream on top.
Main course – Baked bacalao with celery root, Brussels sprouts and apples 400 gr bacalao (from Ektafiskur) Olive oil Dress the fish with olive oil and bake in the oven for 10 minutes at 150° Celsius (302° Fahrenheit).
Baked celery root ½ celery root cut into nice pieces, drizzle with olive oil, and bake for 15 minutes at 180° Celsius (356° Fahrenheit). Boiled apples 1 apple, peeled 1 tsp honey Dice the apple and place into a pot with honey and a little water. Boil with the lid on for 3 minutes. Brussels sprouts The Brussels sprouts are cut in half and boiled for 2 minutes, then fried in butter.
The chef óhannes Jóhannesson, head chef at the popular Slippbar restaurant located in Hotel Marina, shares his favourite Christmas recipes with Iceland Magazine. Photo/GVA.
In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Volcap Olason paintings Gingó hönnun Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store
Maritime museum CCP
Hotel Marina
The Northern Light Center
Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center
The old harbour Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið fleemarket
www.aurorareykjavik.is
Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day from 09:00 - 21:00 Iceland Mag / vol. #10 2014
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101 Festive Spirit Photo/Þjóðminjasafnið.
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The Christmas Markets The annual Christmas market in Ingólfstorg square kicks off on December 1st. This year the market takes the shape and form of a small, delightful Christmas village, complete with log-houses and market-tents. Here you’ll be able to buy amazing smoked leg of lamb from farmer Elín from Húsavík, handmade designs, Christmas trees, traditional bjúga, home-made sweets, roasted almonds and carved whale teeth from the Westman Islands. If all that won’t get you in the Christmas spirit, nothing will!
12. 13. 14. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.
December 12 am to 10 pm December 12 am to 6 pm December 1 to 6 pm December 12 am to 10 pm December 12 am to 10 pm December 1 to 10 pm December 12 am to 10 pm December 12 am to 11 pm
December 21: Gluggagægir, meaning Window Peeper, would peek through people’s windows in search of things to steal. December 22: Gáttaþefur, or Door-Sniffer, has a large nose and a great sense of smell, which he uses to sniff out laufabrauð, the traditional Icelandic bread that is most often eaten in the Christmas season. December 23: Ketkrókur is named Meet Hook. This Yule Lad uses a hook to steal meat from households. Photo/Þjóðminjasafnið.
Christmas trees, traditional bjúga, homemade sweets, roasted almonds and carved whale teeth from the Westman Islands. If all that won’t get you in the Christmas spirit, nothing will!
December 20: Bjúgnakrækir, named Sausage Swiper, would hide in the rafters and snatch sausages that were being smoked.
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New Year’s Eve crazy pyrotechnics The craziest fireworks show you will ever witness is probably the New Year’s Eve display in Reykjavík. The very relaxed fireworks regulations in Iceland give a large part of the population the opportunity to let their inner pyromaniac loose in this spectacular way. On a typical New Year’s Eve, more than 500 tons of fireworks are blown into the sky in Iceland. That’s 1.5 kg (3 lbs.) for every man, woman, and child in the country. There are two great places to experience this mayhem in downtown Reykjavík: in front of Hallgrímskirkja church and in the park around the Catholic church. Safety glasses are strongly recommended.
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December 24: Kertasníkir, whose name means Candle Beggar, is the thirteenth and last Yule Lad to arrive in town. He follows children around in order to steal their candles, which in the olden days were made from tallow and therefore edible.
There are two great places to experience this mayhem in down town Reykjavík: in front of Hallgríms kirkja church and in the park around the Catholic church.
Modern-day Santa In the 20th century, the Icelandic Yule Lads began to wear red clothing, similar to that of their American counterpart. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
SAVOUR THE BEST ICELAND HAS TO OFFER, BE IT FISH OR MEAT, OFF THE FRENCH PLANCHE OR FROM OUR CHARCOAL OVEN. THE CELL AR HAS FOOD TO FIT EVERY MOOD AND OCCASION, WHETHER YOU’RE UP FOR FINGER FOOD O R A F E A S T O F P L E N T Y.
KJALLARINN
A Ð A L S T R Æ T I 2 • 1 0 1 R E Y K J AV Í K TEL: 517 7373 • WWW.KJALLARINN.IS Iceland Mag / vol. #10 2014
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101 Festive Spirit
Icelandic phrases you need to learn for Christmas Planning to visit Iceland during the Christmas holidays? Well, here are a few Icelandic phrases that you are bound to need at one time or another during your stay.
“Gleðileg jól!” Merry Christmas! - Icelanders begin to wish one another a merry Christmas as soon as the first Sunday of Advent arrives, so feel free to throw this phrase around at will.
smoked lamb, mutton or horse meat and usually served either hot or cold, traditionally with potatoes in white sauce, or in slices on laufabrauð or flatbrauð. In the olden days meat was often preserved by hanging it from the rafters of a smoking shed – hence the name: Hangikjöt means hung meat.
“Gleðilegt nýtt ár!”
“Má ég fá piparköku?”
Happy New Year! - You’ll need to know this one if you plan on staying between Christmas and New Year’s Eve.
Can I have a ginger bread cookie? – These tasty, little cookies ring in Christmas. Children love them and grown-ups do too.
“Einn jólabjór, takk.”
“Get ég fengið heitt kakó með rjóma?”
One Christmas beer, thank you. – Over the past few years the arrival of the Christmas brews has become a holiday staple in Iceland. Local and international breweries offer a special range of Christmas beers and ciders that taste of cinnamon, apples and other things nice. The beers are available in Vínbúðin, local restaurants and bars.
Can I have a cup of hot cocoa with whipped cream, please? – It can get cold outside in December (-3 to 3 degrees Celsius (26 to 37 Fahrenheit). The best thing about the cold is coming in from it and warming up with a delicious cup of hot chocolate, topped with a dollop of rich cream. Yumm”
“Áttu til hangikjöt?”
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Do you have any smoked meat? – Hangikjöt is an Icelandic Christmas favourite. It’s made from
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“Getur þú pakkað þessu inn?” Could you wrap this up? – Most stores and boutiques will wrap up your gifts for free – which saves both time and money. Win-win!
“Get ég fengið skiptimiða?” Could you put a return label on the gift? – When buying and exchanging Christmas gifts in Iceland, make sure to ask for a customer return label, just in case the gift did not hit the mark.
“Verða rauð jól í ár?” Do you expect a snowless Christmas this year? – Every year, Icelanders (mostly Southerners) hope and dream of a white Christmas because in Iceland, it really isn’t Christmas unless the ground outside is covered in beautiful, white snow. A snowless Christmas is called ‘a red Christmas’, or rauð jól.
“Áttu malt og appelsín?” Do you have malt and appelsín? - Once a year, Icelanders will mix two popular soft drinks together to create what’s called ‘jólaöl’, meaning Christmas ale (non-alcoholic). Malt and appelsín are drunk separately all year around, but ‘jólaöl’ is reserved for Christmas only. Every family has their very own secret ‘jólaöl’ recipe and the ratio between malt and appelsín differs from one family to the next.
“Bjóðið þið upp á kæsta skötu?” Do you serve fermented skate? – Another Christmas specialty in Iceland is the fermented skate, traditionally eaten on St. Þorlákur’s Day (Þorláksmessa) on December 23. The dish has a rather pungent smell which will linger on for days. Luckily it doesn’t taste quite as bad as it smells.
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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
Iceland Mag explains
Christmas time Christmas is an important family holiday in Iceland, and during this time many businesses in the service sector close down. Photo/GVA
Open For Business
Question: What are the opening hours for stores and businesses in Iceland during Christmas? Answer: Christmas is an important family holiday in Iceland, and during this time many businesses in the service sector close down. Most shops, restaurants, bars, museums, and other attractions are closed on Christmas Day (December 25), Boxing Day (December 26) and New Year‘s Day (January 1). Public transport operates on Boxing Day but with a restricted schedule. Buses do not run on Christmas Day or New Year‘s Day. On Christmas Eve, most businesses close early, as this is the day Iceland ers enjoy their Christmas dinners and open gifts. This is also the case on New Year‘s Eve.
Question: Where can football fans watch UK Premier League matches in Reykjavík? Answer: Reykjavík has many sports bars showing live football, and they are as diverse as they are many. Two of the most popular ones are without a doubt Bjarni Fel (named after sports announcer and former football player Bjarni Felixson) and Enski barinn, also known as the English Pub. Both bars
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Christmas schedule Many pubs show live English Premier League football.
Christmas is an important family holiday in Iceland, and during this time many businesses in the service sector close down.
are located on Austurstræti street, have multi ple television screens, and show all major sports events. Other popular sports bars are Lebowski bar, located on Reykjavík’s main street, Lauga vegur, Danska kráin on Ingólfsstræti, and Rauða ljónið, meaning the Red Lion, situated in Eiðistorg shopping center in Seltjarnarnes (a short drive from downtown Reykjavík and a good option for those staying in the Vesturbær neighborhood of Reykjavík). Go team!
EXPERIENCE The Golden Circle Treat yourself to Iceland’s most popular pizza. Call us at 58 12345, we deliver right to your room!
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Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com
Lastly there’s Ölver, a true sports bar located at Álfheimar 74 in Reykjavík. The bar boasts three large projection screens and a num ber of flat-screen televisions, which means there isn’t a bad seat in the house.
Question: Does it get very cold in Iceland during winter? Answer: December and January are the coldest months in Iceland, with temperatures dropping just below the zero mark on the Celsius scale (32°F). Although the name of the country suggests otherwise, the warm North Atlantic breezes and the Gulf Stream (the Atlantic current that originates at the tip of Florida) make the average temperatures in Iceland higher than in most places of similar latitude. The average temperature in Reykjavík in January is –0.6 °C. That is similar to New York, which is at 40°N (24° farther south than Reykja vík). July and August are generally the warmest months with an average temperature of 10.4°C (50.7°F).
Winter wonderland December and January are the coldest months in Iceland, with temperatures dropping just below the zero mark on the Celsius scale (32°F). Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.
ask@icelandmag.com
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The christmas spirit
Peace and quiet Svandís Dóra Einarsdóttir intends to take things slow this Christmas and just enjoy meeting friends and family, going shopping, decorating and baking. Photo/Stefán
Oranges & Cinnamon Svandís Dóra Einarsdóttir, an actor with the National Theater, gets into the Christmas spirit when she and her sisters meet up the day before the first Sunday of Advent, to make their own Christmas decorations, bake cookies, and drink hot chocolate. Where would you take a foreign visitor in order to get into the Christmas spirit? “I’d take him for a stroll around town, enjoy the Christmas decorations, grab a gingerbread-flavoured café latte to go, check out some of the pop-up markets, and go to a Christmas concert. Should we have ample time, I’d drive to the countryside and go horseback riding in the snow, relax in the natural geotherm al hot springs with warm Stroh (strong rum in hot chocolate) while gazing at the Northern Lights.” Best place for a cozy Christmas drink? “I love the gingerbread-flavoured café latte at the Te & Kaffi franchise. But if you’d like something stronger, I recom mend the Irish coffee or a hot chocolate with Stroh at the cosy Stofan café.” What gets you into the Christmas spirit? “It varies. Usually I get into the spirit when my sisters and I meet up with the kids on the Saturday before the first Sunday of Advent. We make our own Christmas decorations, bake cookies, drink hot chocolate, and listen to
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cheesy old Christmas songs. This year, however, I got the feeling of Christmas earlier. My fiancé and I were taking an evening walk with our dog and had picked up a coffee to go when I was suddenly overwhelmed with this sense of excitement. Maybe it was the cold but still weather, the beautiful Christ mas lights or a mix of both, but it was a surprisingly nice feeling.” Describe your Christmas plans this year: “I’m a woman who loves traditions but is not stuck on them. I enjoy going with the flow. This year I’ll have some days off during Christmas, something I’m not used to, but really looking forward to. I intend to take things slow and just enjoy meeting friends and family, go shopp ing, decorating, baking, watching old Christmas movies, and resting up.” What is your favourite Christmas tradition? “It’s difficult to pick only one, but I love decorating the Christmas tree on St. Þorláks Day Eve (December 23), after having walked around town, bumping
“Should we have ample time, I’d drive to the countryside and go horseback riding in the snow, relax in the natur al geo thermal hot springs with warm Stroh (strong rum in hot chocolate) while gazing at the Northern Lights.”
into friends and acquaintances while I make my way around town to buy the last Christmas gift (I always save one gift for that evening). Other traditions I love are eating smoked leg of lamb, Nóa confectionaries, mixing Malt and Appelsín (a traditional Icelandic Christmas drink), the smell of oranges and cinnamon, and all the candles that light up the dark winter months and help us Icelanders survive the dark, cold winters.” What will you have for Christmas dinner? “We always have my mother’s lovely wild goose served with caramelised potatoes, fruit salad, pickled red cabb age, warm vegetables, and her amaz ing wild mushroom and red wine sauce.” Do you and your family follow the tradition of leaving a gift in each other’s shoe? “My fiancé and I always get a present from the thirteenth and last Yule Lad, Candle Beggar, so the answer is yes.”
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Iceland Magazine / vol. #10 2014
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