Iceland Magazine Spring 2016 by Iceland Magazine

Decadent weekend brunch Hidden Hot Spring The puffins are heading home

Issue 01

2016

T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e

Yo ur

P 6 P 12 P 18

co py

The Geothermal Issue p.20

Iceland’s green energy

p.38

A Guide to Iceland’s Glaciers What to do there & their claim to fame Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e

Contents from the editor

Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com

Reykjavík’s Finest Hour

re you on your first visit to Iceland and Reykja vík? Lucky you! You are witnessing the capital’s finest hour. The downtown restaurants are packed, and the streets and sidewalks are full of people during the day and until early morning on the weekends. This is the city’s cultural and culinary hub, where all the can’tmiss watering holes are located. The reason for this electric atmosphere is the rising influx of trav elers from abroad. Iceland used to be almost solely a summer desti nation. Not so anymore. Although the number peaks during the summer months, we now have a steady stream of visitors throughout the year. And they are transforming the city. Reykjavík’s center, with its colorful, graffitied streets, is changing before our very eyes. Not all locals are happy. Some believe that the downtown is losing its soul and lament the new economic force of the travel industry. And yes, some parts of Reykjavík’s center are going through a rapid phase of gentrification. New buildings are rising on vacant lots, decrepit houses are being renovated, new life is sweeping into formerly unused shopping spaces, and streets that were deteriorating are suddenly perking up. The local grievance is mainly caused by some classic NIMBYism*. Construction work close to your home or workplace can be very tiresome indeed. Modern architecture is also a cause for anxiety for some people, but taste is subjective. Some like Beethoven, others the Beastie Boys, and yet others Justin Bieber. Having lived and played in Reykjavík’s downtown for more than twenty years, I can sincerely say that it’s developing in a healthy way. Yes, I have cursed some recent explosive work on nearby con struction sites that has shaken my building and scared my cats (they got used to it). But I’m happy to see how the area is blossoming after being left behind for two decades when the majority of the city’s shopping moved away to suburban shopping malls. That said, the rapid changes put huge pressure on the city’s government. Zoning codes must be vigorously enforced and compa nies that do not respect restrictions should be penalized harshly. The city has to be very careful not to mismanage the situation. Some dream of stopping the march of time—but that can’t be done. Reykjavík’s historic and oldest neighborhood is buzzing as never before.

Contents 6-16 Lookout 6 Our favourite late breakfast 8 Life in a bubble & Icelandic wasabi 10 The central highlands 12 A hidden hot spring 14-16 Eurovision, Dancing & drinking and more highlights ahead

18 The Puffins Are Perking Up After facing tough times in the past few years, Iceland’s puffin population rebounded in 2015.

20-37 A special supplement: Iceland’s Green Geothermal Energy Leading geothermal energy experts from around the globe meet in Reykjavík to discuss issues facing the industry and the economic, social and environmental advantages of utilizing geothermal energy.

*Short for Not In My Back Yard, used to describe people who oppose new buildings, commercial or industrial development in their neighborhood.

38 Endangered White Giants A guide to Iceland’s glaciers, what to do there & their claim to fame

IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Árni Þór Sævarsson arni.thor@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Magnús Sveinn Helgason, Adriana Champagne, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson, Aron Brink, Ernir Eyjólfsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: The geothermal area in the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range. (see p. 20). Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

46 Foundations of Wellbeing Ranking number four of 133 countries how did Iceland manage to turn economic growth into social goods for its citizens? In an interview with Magnús Sveinn Helgason, Michael Green, the director of the Social Progress Imperative, explains the index and discusses Iceland’s case study. Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.

50 Iceland Magazine Explains Where to go with kids, How hard is it for foreigners to buy property in Iceland? and other burning questions.

62 Beers to You The Downtown Microbrew Walk: A guided walk through the history of beer in Iceland.

– Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur & Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, Akureyri. Geysir, Haukadalur. geysir.com –

Lookout Hverfisgata 12

Our Favourite Late Breakfast There’s an excellent new brunch menu at Hverfisgata 12 in downtown Reykjavík. Photos by Ari Magg

A GOOD START The H12 brunch will provide a solid foundation for the day. Above the restaurant is one of Reykjavík’s best craft beer bars, the great Mikkeller & friends. Photos/Ari Magg

hether you are dealing with a hangover or want to have a healthy weekend family celebration, the brunch menu at Hverfisgata 12 has you well covered. Since opening in 2014, the restaurant has made its name with gourmet pizzas crafted with Icelandic-inspired topp ings and dough made from whey and barley. Staying true to its origins, three brunch pizzas top the menu. If you go for the one with homemade tomato sauce, fire-baked eggs, bacon, and black pepper, you should not need more nourishment until dinner time. Less calorie-laden options include avocado with crème fraîche and herbs on the restaurant’s splendid rye bread, and smoked trout on rye bread with poached egg and sauce hollandaise. If you like your brunch to involve some booze, Hverfisgata 12 won’t let you down. You can choose between the restaurant’s own take on the Bloody Mary (vodka, pizza juice, and house spices), a Blumosa (blueberry syrup and bubbles), and a wide selection of craft beers. The brunch scene has gone way too far in too many places around the world, with gastronomic grandstanding and pretentiousness. There is no such nonsense at Hverfisgata 12. The menu is simple and honest, as it should be. -jk

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

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Lookout bubble

Fit for a king The dome accommodates two people and features comfortable mattresses and warm, woollen blankets. Photo/Róbert Sveinn

Iceland’s Only Five Million Star Hotel

Fall asleep under the Northern Lights dancing softly across the starry winter sky.

inter is Northern Light sea son in Iceland. Many visit the country to enjoy the spectacle, which continues to stir up feelings of awe and admiration, and now one can do so in a new manner; enjoy the entrancing green curtain dancing softly across the starry winter skies all the while staying snug and warm inside a heated plastic bubble. Entrepreneur Róbert Sveinn Róbertsson offers accommodation in a large plastic dome located in Biskupstungur district, southwest Iceland. The

dome accommodates two persons and features comfortable mattresses and warm, woollen blankets to keep guests snug as a bug through the night. Privacy is ensured by the surrounding trees and a toilet is located nearby. Accommodation is available all year round; in spring and summer guests can enjoy the impressive orange glow of the midnight sun. The bubble has become a popular destination among foreign guests who describe the experi ence as “one-of-a-kind”. Róbert Sveinn oper ated only one bubble to start with, but quickly

expanded his business and now operates three bubbles. “The expansion was done in cooper ation with the farmers because the bubbles need to be sheltered by trees,” he explains. -sm A night in a bubble will set you back 24,900 ISK (175 Euros/191 USD) but, if you ask us, you can’t really put a price on the experience of falling asleep under a starry sky or the gorgeous midnight sun. For booking and further information see www.buubble.com

Green Gold

Tricky growing Wasabi Iceland plans to plant 500 square meters (5,400 sq ft) of wasabi plants. It takes the plants a year to mature, and the company estimates that the first plants could be ready for the market in 2017.

This spring, wasabi will be added to the many vegeta bles and herbs produced in Iceland’s geothermal-power ed greenhouses. An experimental project, “Wasabi Iceland,” has received a government innovation grant to prepare and explore the production of wasabi in hightech greenhouses in East Iceland. asabi is difficult to cultivate, which makes it very expensive to produce. Fresh wasabi is consid ered a rare delicacy and prima rily used at fine restaurants,

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

fetching a high price. The goal is to grow wasabi hydroponically (in water rather than in soil), using lava rocks to support the plants. Growing wasabi is very tricky and producers need to adhere to

strict quality controls. The only European producer of wasabi grows the plant outdoors, and is therefore unable to deliver fresh wasabi year-round. This offers unique opportunities to the

Icelandic producer. Because of the cost, the wasabi paste that people consume with sushi is generally not made from the wasabi plant, but from horseradish, mustard seeds, and green food colouring.

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At Fjallabak in the south central highlands Iceland’s interior forms one of the largest areas in Europe south of the Arctic Circle that has never been inhabited or cultivated. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Saving the Wild

Iceland’s interior highland is considered one of the last remaining great wildernesses in Europe. Help us preserve it unspoiled for future generations.

ocal nature conservation organisations, the Iceland ic Travel Industry Associ ation, and a number of hik ing and travel groups are working together to put pressure on the Parliament to turn Iceland’s interior into a national park. The aim is to preserve the area’s delicate flora and fauna for the enjoy ment of the general public. The area is renowned for its unparalleled geo logy and geomorphology, with pristine oases in the midst of a landscape filled with stunning contrasts formed by a unique combination of fire and ice.The hope is that by establishing the central highlands as a national park, the area will be kept unspoiled for future generations. All expected development, such as hiking huts, sani tary facilities, and transportation, must meet strict regulations. The park would include an area 40 thousand square kilometres (15,444 sq.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

The Queen Herðubreið Mountain is located in the northeast central highlands and is considered Iceland’s most beautiful mountain by many. Photo/Vilhem Gunnarsson

miles) in size. 40% of that area is Vatnajökull National Park in Southeast Iceland. A survey conducted by Gallup for the Icelandic Environ ment Association last year revealed that 61.4% of Icelanders back the idea. You can join us too—people of all nations can show their support by signing an online petition at halendid.is.

The park would include an area 40 thousand square kilometre (15,444 sq. miles) in size. See more “Protect the highland” on halendid.is

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Keep moving

hidden hot Spring Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Strútslaug is a hot spring that’s been used for bathing for decades, even centuries. It is located between two glaciers, Torfajökull and Mýrdalsjökull in the remote interior where black sands dominate the landscape, with small slivers of lush green valleys and white glacier ice caps fading into the skyline. The hike to the pool starts from a small mountain cabin in the south central highlands and takes about two hours. Please, as always, don’t leave anything behind. -jk

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Lookout highlights ahead

Documentaries in the Westfjords The 10th annual documentary film festival, Skjaldborg, takes place in the fishing village of Patreksfjörður on 13–16 May. The festival showcases new and interesting Icelandic documentaries by up-and-coming filmmakers as well as more seasoned ones. The festival provides a platform where filmmakers and guests can discuss and enjoy the rich documentary filmmaking industry that has developed in Iceland. See: en.skjaldborg.com

Funny times For the children

Icetralia is a comedy event featuring Icelandic comedian Hugleikur Dagsson and his Australian counterpart Jono Duffy. The shows take place at Café Rósenberg, Klapparstígur 25-27, and is performed in English. Jono recently moved to Iceland to “avoid poisonous spiders and ex-husbands.” His comedy is described as “gay, Australian, and a bit desperate,” like the man himself. Hugleikur began his comedic career as a cartoonist but soon moved into stand-up comedy. The show starts at 9 pm and tickets are sold at the door for 2000 ISK.

Barnahátíð í Reykjanesbæ (the Reykjanes Children’s Festival) will spread joy and fun all over the gorgeous fishing village of Reykjanes on May 6–8. Events will take place in the town’s museums.

Dates: 13th and 20th of April - 5th and 26th of May - 2nd, 9th, 16th and 23rd of June.

See: reykjanesbaer.is

Get with the art! The Reykjavik Arts Festival takes place all over the greater Capital Area from 13 May–5 June. The annual arts festival features countless exhibitions and performances of contemporary and classical works in venues and unconventional spaces throughout the city. Since its inception in 1970, the Reykjavík Arts Festival has invited hundreds of artists from all parts of the globe to perform or exhibit at the festival. See: en.listahatid.is

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Eurovision session Icelanders love the Eurovision Song Contest, despite having never won. Last year, 95.5 percent of the Icelandic nation watched the Grand Final of Eurovision—the largest viewing share of all 40 countries. In comparison, across the other forty markets, the Grand Final achieved an average audience share of 39.6%. Iceland will be represented by the singer Greta Salome. The contest takes place 10–14 May.

Lookout highlights ahead

Drinking & Dancing Geimskot, Reykjavik’s new bi-weekly Thursday event located at the Húrra Bar in downtown Reykjavík, is happening from now until the 1st of October. Entry is free of charge

Having fun Join in on a Thursday night. You can also check out Geimskot on Facebook, SoundCloud and SplashThat, and listen to them on air at FM Xtra (FM 101.5).

reators and orga nizers Scott Quinn and Kelley Frank, both born and raised in the US, came to Reykjavik with a mission: to network, to collaborate, and to breathe life back into Thursday nights. Scott first fell in love with Iceland in 2011 while working with a group of musicians, and now, five years later, he is making the permanent move here with his boyfriend Oliver. Kelley, a music manager living in Berlin, Germany, will be coming back and forth every other week to help support Geimskot (“space shot” in English). Geimskot brings a different agenda to the table: the combination of both inter national and local talent. Húrra Bar is known for being a venue where locals and foreigners can come together to share a good time, and Geimskot wants the music to reflect that as well. Scott and Kelley realized that Reykjavík´s location as a stopover destination presents a great opportunity to bring in musicians flying through Iceland. Artists can come by, play a show, and continue on their journeys. As a music manager, Kelley is connected with artists from all over the US, as well as in her current home in Berlin, so there’s always someone who fits into

the booking schedule.Geim skot is an open format event. This means that it will not be the same every time. There’s room for sponta neity, and always the possi bility of spur of the moment collaborations. “But it’s definitely not a hippy jam

session,” assures Kelley. “It’s definitely drinking, it’s defi nitely dancing, and it’s over by 1 AM, so everyone can go to bed and make it to work the next day—so there’s no reason not to come!”. adriana@icelandmag.com

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Lookout Highlights ahead

The Icelandic Sagas crammed into one hilariously entertaining show You are cordially invited to enter the world of the Icelandic Sagas, where you’ll get acquainted with some of the Sagas’ most notorious characters.

ver heard of Hallgerður “Long Pants,” Gunnlaug “Serpent Tongue,” Killer-Glúmur or Leifur “the Lucky”? No? Well, it’s about time you get to know these larger-than-life characters from the renowned Icelandic Sagas. The Icelandic Sagas – Greatest Hits is a theatrical comedy based on the Icelandic Sagas, the famous prose narratives that took place in Iceland during the 9th, 10th, and 11th centuries. The stories tell of the exploits and conflicts of the early genera tions of Icelandic settlers.

“Þorbjörn rushed up holding his spear in two hands and ran Atli through. Atli looked down and exclaimed: ‘They’re in fashion these days, these broad spears,’ as the blood spewed from his wound.” Back in time Actors Jói Jóhannsson and Lilja Nótt Þórarinsdóttir portray some of the Sagas’ most notorious characters during the hilarious show The Icelandic Sagas – Greatest Hits, in Harpa Concert Hall.

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Actors Jói Jóhannsson and Lilja Nótt Þór arinsdóttir portray some of the Sagas’ most notorious characters, including Hallgerður “Long Pants” and Leifur “the Lucky,” and manage to cram centuries’ worth of events into a 75-minute-long show. The show addresses problems as old as mankind, such as how to put a stop to your wife’s incessant slave-killings, how to respond when someone calls you an “eater of horse’s ass,” and why you should never throw a pair of blue pants into an Icelander’s face.

A famous line from Grettissaga The show premieres in the magnificent Harpa Concert Hall in May and tickets cost 4,900 ISK.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

The Puffins Are Perking Up Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

After facing tough times in the past few years, Iceland’s puffin population rebounded in 2015. More puffin chicks—or pysja, as adolescent puffins are called in Icelandic—were recorded in the Westman islands last year than at any time since 2003, when systematic counts were first performed, and similar reports were received from other areas of the country. Few places on Earth offer better opportunities to lay eyes on puffins than Iceland, which is home to nearly half of the world’s puffin population. These small birds spend autumn and winter out on the open sea but fly back to shore in late April to breed.Millions of puffins grace the hills and cliffs of Iceland’s coasts during spring and summer, before they take off again to the open sea in the autumn. Head to icelandmag.com for our map showing the best places for spotting puffins around Iceland.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

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Iceland Geothermal Conference

promotion

Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant Located in the Hengill area in Southwest Iceland. The area is connected with three volcanic systems.

Geothermal power:

A Hidden Resource In Iceland, geothermal power has historically been used directly for heating, and today it is still primarily utilized by district heating utilities that literally pipe the energy of the earth’s mantle into people’s homes.

ildigunnur Thorsteinsson, a key moderator at the Iceland Geo thermal Conference and Man aging Director of Research and Development at Reykjavík Energy, told Iceland Magazine that what makes the conference unique is the focus on the practical side of things. “Many international conferences on the geothermal industry focus on basic science and technology, but the IGC focuses more on the actual operational level and practical challenges facing those operating in the field. We want to focus on the business perspective at the conference.”

Iceland is eager to share its experience She hopes the conference will help spread im portant lessons learned in the industry. The Icelandic geothermal industry will have an opportunity to share its experience as well as

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

H ildigunnur Thorsteinsson, a key moderator at the Iceland Geothermal Conference and Managing Director of Research and Development at Reykjavík Energy.

learn from others: “One of the things that has always characterized the Icelandic geothermal industry is its openness. Since the industry was developed within the public sector we have always felt we operate in the interest of the public—not only by providing the public with affordable and green energy, but by sharing our research and the lessons we have learned. In fact, we have not only been willing, but eager to share the lessons learned in Iceland. We look forward to doing just that at IGC.”

Making green energy even greener One of the most exciting, cutting-edge techno logies that ON Power, a subsidiary of Reykjavík Energy, has been working on in recent years, she tells us, is the reinjection of hydrogen sulphide and other gases produced by geothermal power plants. “Although geothermal power is green, it does produce a small amount of gas emissions. The steam contains various gases, including hydrogen sulphide and CO2. These gases are obviously only a fraction of what is produced by power plants burning fossil fuels, but we are eager to reduce the negative environmental impact of geothermal even more by pumping these gasses back down into the geothermal system. Our experience here in Iceland has actually exceeded our wildest dreams.” The composition of the gas emissions of geothermal fields is very different, depending on

Iceland Geothermal Conference the nature of the field in question. But the pre sence of hydrogen sulphide in the exhaust of geothermal power plants is a problem in many places, including Hawaii, where geothermal power is used for power generation, Hildigunnur tells us. “We have achieved great success pump ing hydrogen sulphide and CO2 back down into the system, where the basalt in the rock reacts to the gases, mineralizing them, and thus neutralizing them permanently. We have one

lecture specifically dedicated to these experi ments, which are completely unique internationally.” Direct use Another defining characteristic of the Icelandic geothermal industry is its emphasis on the direct use of geothermal power. In Iceland, geothermal power has historically been used directly for heating, and today it is still primarily utilized by

“Although geothermal power is green, it does produce a small amount of gas emissions. The steam contains various gases, including hydrogen sulphide and CO2.

Third Iceland Geothermal Conference

district heating utilities that literally pipe the energy of the earth’s mantle into people’s homes. In the rest of the world, geothermal energy is mainly used to generate electricity. “There are many places around the globe—Eastern Europe, for example—where low-heat geothermal systems can be used to power district heating utilities. However, geothermal power is a ‘hidden’ resource: it’s frequently not visible from the surface, and people might be completely unaware of its existence. We believe there are great opportunities to expand the use of geothermal resources, which are more plentiful than many people realize, and we hope this conference can help do that.”

26th

The third edition of the Iceland Geothermal Conference (IGC 2016), will be held at the Harpa Conference Centre in Reykjavík, from April 26 to 29, 2016.

eading geothermal energy experts from around the globe are heading to Reykjavík in April (26-29) to discuss issues facing the industry and the economic, social, and environmental advantages of utilizing geothermal energy. The conference is expected to draw 600 to 800 delegates from around the globe. The conference will have three topics with 16 presentations each.

Operability: Challenges involved in operating geothermal plants. Feasibility: Why some projects are more successful than others. Practicality: Responses to an ever-increasing demand for greater utilization of the resource. In addition to presentations and lectures, the conference will include field trips and net

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working sessions. The keynote speaker at the conference is Harvard Business School professor Michael E. Porter, one of the most influential business thinkers of today.

Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015

Exploration / EIA / Drilling / Reservoir Engineering / Power Plant Design / EPCM E

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Hot

Spot

One of the things that defines Iceland is the country’s high level of geological activity. At least 30 different volcanoes have erupted in the thousand-odd years since Iceland was settled, and there are more than 200 volcanoes within the active volcanic zone that stretches across the island from the Southwest to the Northeast. In addition, over 600 hot springs, defined as water springs with temperatures in excess of 20°C (68°F), have been identified. By Magnús Sveinn Helgason

celand’s location at the top of the North Atlantic ridge, where hot magma boils from the mantle of the earth to the surface, is proba bly its greatest and most valuable natural asset. Not only does the volcanic and geothermal activity create the dramatic and magnificent landscapes and natural formations that are the basis of Ice land’s tourism industry, it provides Iceland with abundant cheap and renewable energy. Icelanders have utilized this resource ever since the country was first settled in the 9th century. The most obvious use for Iceland’s geothermal water, and probably the first as well, is bathing. In fact, one of the oldest man-made structures in Iceland is a small pool in Reykholt, the great seat of power and learning in Saga Age Iceland. The current pool is believed to have been con structed in the 13th century, at the same location where the poet and scholar Snorri Sturluson built a pool after he moved to Reykholt in 1206. Snorri was one of the most powerful chieftains during the tumultuous Sturlungaöld (the Sturlung era, essentially a civil war that raged from 1220 to 1262). He is also the author of the Prose Edda, a work of literature that preserves much of the Old Norse religion and mythology. He is believed to have constructed one of the first geothermal pools

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

in Iceland—according to some sources, Snorri’s pool could accommodate 50 people! However, in the last 100 years, Icelanders have increasingly harnessed the renewable energy of its geothermal resources to power a modern industri al society. The most spectacular example of this work is found in Reykjavík. High-temperature areas Reykjavík sits at the edge of the volcanic zone that stretches across Iceland. Along this zone, we find at least 20 high-temperature geothermal areas, defined as areas where the water reaches 250°C at a depth of 1,000 meters. All of these high-temperature areas are linked to the active volcanic systems. Reykjavík draws much of its hot water, and electricity, from some of the most active high-temperature areas, located around the volcano Hengill, to the East of the city. In addition to the high-temperature areas, there are about 250 low-temperature areas around Ice land, where water temperatures do not exceed 150°C in the Earth’s upper 1,000 meter-deep crust. Several of these areas are actually located within the city limits.

WARM INSIDE Thanks to abundant geothermal energy most Icelanders are not burdened by high heating bills.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Hot Spot German submarine warfare in WWI as a catalyst Early in the city’s history, Reykjavík, like other Euro pean cities, was powered with coal and other fossil fuels. But during the First World War, oil and coal imports were disrupted, due to German submarine warfare, causing shortages and rising prices. That situation forced many Icelanders to take a second look at how to utilize domestic energy sources. The first boreholes in geothermal areas in Iceland had been sunk in 1755, but the goal then was not to drill for hot water but to mine for sulphur, which was an extremely valuable commodity. Similarly, the wells that were sunk in Laugardalurinn valley in 1928–1930 were not primarily intended for hot water, but for the generation of electricity. However, the steam and water produced by the boreholes was not hot enough to produce electricity. Instead, a 3 km (1.8 mile) long pipeline was built to connect the boreholes to the city.

fascinating facts Reykjavík derives its name from the geothermal activity on the peninsula

A literal translation of Reykjavík is “smoky bay” or “steamy bay.” Reykur, in Old Norse, could mean either smoke or steam, and there are numerous place names around Iceland containing different forms of the word reykur, virtually all of them a reflection of nearby geothermal activity. The smoke or steam in Reykjavík would have come from the geothermal area in Laugardalur valley, east of downtown.

11% of all hot water consumed in Reykjavík comes from boreholes within the city proper

The geothermal areas within the city itself are still an important source of power for the inhabitants of the city. In 1930, the first houses were connected to the boreholes in Laugardalur valley. Despite the dramatic growth of the city and its need for hot water, 10 wells in this geothermal area still supply the capital and the surrounding suburbs with 8% of its needs. A second geothermal area within the city proper, in the valley of Elliðaár, supplies a further 3%.

Tapping in Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant is a 20 minutes drive from the capital.

A cleaner, more liveable city, thanks to geothermal power The first houses to be connected to the new Reykjavík District heating utility were on the eastern slopes of Skólavörðuholt hill, which at that time marked the east ern edge of the city. A total of 70 private homes and several public buildings, including the first indoor swim ming pool in Reykjavík, Sundhöllin, were connected in this first round. Over the next two decades, the utility was expanded dramatically, so that by the 1950s, half of all Reykjavík residents had access. The district heating utility contributed to the appeal of Reykjavík. Not only did it lower the heating bills of residents, allowing even poor people to heat their homes properly, thus signific antly improving public health according to many ob servers, it also eliminated the cloud of dark coal smoke which had frequently covered Reykjavík during the early decades of the century. Reykjavík became a clean er and more liveable city!

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

You can thank geo thermal power for Icelandic tomatoes and cucumbers!

One of the most important ways in which Icelanders use geothermal power is to heat greenhouses. Greenhouses allow Icelandic farmers to meet much of the domestic demand for vegetables and cut flowers. Greenhouse-grown cucumbers and tomatoes go a long way to meet the total demand for this produce in Iceland. More than 90% of all cucumbers, 70% of tomatoes, and 15% of bell peppers consumed in Iceland are produced domestically.

The water smells of sulphur, because much of it is actually unfiltered geothermal water

One of the first things foreign visitors notice in Iceland is that the hot water smells like rotten eggs. The reason is very simple: water from the low-temperature fields is pumped directly into the system, which means more than half of the hot water coming from the tap is actually pure, unfiltered geothermal water, which is high in sulfur! Most geothermal heating services around Iceland similarly pump water directly from the ground to consumers.

If you know what to look for you can also spot the boreholes

Despite it having been one of the largest public works in Iceland, the Reykjavík central heating utility is not particularly visible. With the exception of the pipelines carrying water from Reykir or Nesjavellir, the distribution system is, of course, underground. This leaves the storage tanks as the most visible part of the utility. But if you know what you are looking for, you can also spot several boreholes. The easiest place to spot boreholes is around the intersection where Laugavegur changes names to Suður landsbraut, near Hotel Nordica and Grand Hotel (see photo above). A total of ten boreholes are scattered around this area, each one located under strange-looking stainless steel structures, some of which have steam rising from exhaust vents.

Powering data centres

Most industrial applications of geothermal power are, of course, in the form of electricity produced with geothermal power. Harnessing geothermal power has also allowed Iceland to attract environ mentally conscious energy-intensive industries. Verne Global, which operates a 44-acre data centre campus in Reykjanes bær town, touts the fact that their centre is powered with 100% renewable energy.

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prepare for a sustainable future Arion Bank is a proud sponsor of the third Iceland Geothermal Conference. We are committed to the continued development of sustainable natural resources. We are well aware of Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pioneering role in this field and we are proud to be able to offer our wide experience and expertise in providing universal financial services to corporate, institutional and individual investors. We wish you all a productive and stimulating time at the Harpa Conference Centre.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Hot Spot More than half of the hot water consumed in the capital region is produced in Reykja vík and its suburbs

One of the first attempts to use geothermal hot water to heat residential houses in Iceland occurred in the suburban municipality Mosfellssveit, to the Northeast of Reykjavík. In 1908, a local farmer diverted water from a nearby spring to heat his farm, Suður Reykir. In 1933, drilling began in the Reykir geothermal area, and in 1939, work began on a pipeline connecting these wells to Reykjavík. In 1943, water from these wells was added to the Reykjavík system, greatly increasing its capacity. Since then, the farm Suður Reykir has been engulfed in the rapidly growing city, fed by the energy of geothermal power. Today, these wells, and a second geothermal area in Mosfellssveit, Reykjahlíð, supply the capital region with 44% of its hot water.

Those huge tanks on top of Öskju hlíð hill? They store hot water

Sitting on top of Öskjuhlið hill, south of downtown Reykjavík, is an odd-looking building: a giant glass dome sitting atop 6 large cylinders. This structure is actually 6 storage tanks, built to store hot water to meet periodic changes in demand. The tanks were originally built in 1940, at the end of the pipeline delivering geothermal water from the Reykir geothermal area. In 1991, the original tanks were updated and the glass- domed observation deck, restaurant, and shops were built atop the tanks.

Orkuveita Reykja vík, Reykjavík’s hot water utility, is the largest geothermal heating utility in the world

The capacity of the low-temperature geothermal fields within the city and its suburbs, in Laugarnes, the valley of Elliðaár, Reykir, and Reykjahlíð, had been reached by the 1980s. To meet the growing demands, boreholes were sunk in the Nesjavellir geothermal area in the foothills of the mountain Hengill, south of Þing vallavatn lake. Hengill is an active volcano, and the geothermal areas in its foothills are among the most powerful high-temperature fields in Iceland. With the addition of Nesjavellir, the Reykjavík Power Utility now supplies more than 70 gigalitres of hot water, with an installed capacity of 750 MWt, making it by far the largest municipal geothermal heating service, supplying 56% of the population of Iceland with hot water.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

4% of the gethermal energy is used to heat swimming pools

Drying seaweed

Geothermal power is also used directly in many industrial applications. The largest single industrial user is the Thorverk Seaweed Processing in West Iceland. The plant uses 112°C (234°F) hot water from three nearby boreholes to heat air, which is used to dry seaweed from Breiðafjörður bay. The dried seaweed is used to make organic seaweed meal for fertilizer or animal feed.

… and cod-heads

Geothermal power is also used to dry cod heads. The head of the cod was frequently thrown out as waste, with a small number of the heads being dried outdoors. In recent years, geothermal power has been applied to industrialize the cod-head drying, producing a valuable export commodity. In 2011, 5% of the total value of cod exports were dried cod heads. Almost all are sold to Africa.

Geothermal power is also used to generate electricity

The Nesjavellir geothermal power station, the second largest geo thermal power station in Iceland, not only produces hot water for space heating, it also produces electricity. Nesjavellir has a capacity of 120 MW of electrical power and about 1100 liters of hot water per second. The Hellisheiði power station on the west slopes of the volcano Hengill (southeast of Reykjavik) is the third largest in the world, and has a capacity of 303 MW of electricity and 400 MW of hot water. Foreign visitors are probably more familiar with the Svartsengi power plant, which produces 75 MW. The construction of Svartsengi began in 1977, and shortly thereafter, the mineral-rich surplus water from the power plant began to be used for one of Iceland’s most popular tourist destinations: the Blue Lagoon. All in all, about 20% of all harnessed geothermal energy in Iceland is used to generate electricity, and roughly a fourth of all electricity consumed in Iceland is produced by geothermal power plants.

Geothermal power stations are also popular tourist destinations!

So, when you visit the Blue Lagoon, you are visiting one of Iceland’s largest geothermal power stations. You can visit other geothermal power stations as well. The Hellisheiði power plant has a popular visitor centre where visitors can learn about the geology of Iceland and explore the history, current utilization, and future potential of geothermal power in Iceland.

There are nearly 140 geothermally heated recreational swimming pools in Iceland, not counting various natural pools and hot springs, or nature baths like the Blue Lagoon. An additional 30 or so pools are heated with electricity, most of which are rather small. Measured by surface area, more than 90% of the pools in Iceland are heated by geothermal power. With an annual water consumption of 6.9 million m3, swimming pools consume nearly 4% of the total harnessed geothermal energy of Iceland.

Sidewalks and parking lots are kept free of snow and ice, thanks to geothermal power

The 85°C (185°F) geothermal Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015 water entering home-heating systems loses much of its heat and energy as it warms up Icelandic homes. But not all, since the returning water is roughly 35°C (95°F) hot. Some of this water is recycled, by being returned to pumping stations where it is mixed with 100°–120°C (212°–248°F) hot water to bring its temperature down to a safe 85°C. But in the past three decades, the return water is also increasingly used for snow melting and de-icing systems. Today, most new car parking areas in Iceland are installed with snow melting systems. Public sidewalks as well as private paths and residential driveways are also increasingly outfitted with snow melting systems.

And soccer fields!

Geothermal heat has also been used to heat up football/soccer fields, allowing Icelandic footballers to practice outdoors year round. The first soccer field in Reykjavík to be heated with geothermal power was opened up in the Laugardalur recreational area in 2000, and since then, all new football fields have been outfitted with a heating system. Perhaps it’s this access to heated football fields that explains Iceland’s recent success in football, becoming the smallest nation ever to secure a spot in the European Championship!

Iceland M

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410 4000 Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Welcome to the land of renewable energy

Krafla (1977) Geothermal Power

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Landsvirkjun, the National Power Company of Iceland, is the country’s largest electricity generator. By utilising 100% renewable energy sources, hydropower, geothermal energy and wind power, we generate three quarters of all electricity used in Iceland. Founded in 1965, the company now operates 14 hydropower stations, two wind turbines for research

been exploring the possibilities of a more diverse utilisation in geothermal areas. Landsvirkjun is

We support and encourage increased expertise, innovation and technologial development to

purposes and two geothermal power stations, Bjarnarflag and Krafla, with the third one at Þeistareykir currently in construction. Geothermal energy

one of the founders of the Icelandic Deep Drilling Project which has marked a milestone in geothermal energy research. Tests carried out

promote the sustainable use of renewable energy resources. The company holds a wealth of specialized knowledge on the

accounts for a small part of the electricity produced by Landsvirkjun, but in recent years the company has

measured steam temperature up to 450°C, making it by far the hottest geothermal well in the world.

development and research of renew able energy, for it to be utilised in an efficient and responsible manner.

Come see us at the Icelandic Geothermal Conference.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Verkís Consulting Engineers

promotion

Some of the women in the Verkís energy team.

Geothermal Avant – Garde Verkís has been a forerunner in the field of geothermal consultation ever since the onset of modern day geothermal utilisation in Iceland. Previous projects include i.a. district heating systems, geothermal power plants and various utilisation schemes.

he Verkís geothermal power port folio encompasses projects from high temperature fields with direct steam plants (dry steam and flash), to low temperature fields utilising binary cycles or Organic Rankine Cycles (ORC), together with combined heat and power projects. Our strength lies in thorough and allencompassing understanding of the science and technology involved in geothermal projects, having for decades provided consulting services to geothermal investors and developers, operators and financial organizations, within Iceland and abroad.

Reykjavik district heating

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Verkís is ideally situated in Iceland, a leading country in the field of geothermal utilisation with many past and present ground breaking projects. But Iceland is not only known for being a pioneer in this field, it has been named the country with the narrowest gender gap many years in a row by the World Economic Forum. Icelandic geothermal energy players benefit from the for ward thinking present in our society that makes it fertile grounds for those involved in consulting engineering like Verkís. Through the decades that have passed since Verkís undertook its first geothermal project, Verkís has kept abreast of the various technological advances that have gone

hand in hand with increased harnessing of the resource locally and globally. But the changes we have witnessed are not solely those related to the processes and controls involved. A significant difference has also taken place regarding the in volvement of women in the field of engineering, including those involving consultation in the field of geothermal utilisation. At present many of the Verkís main experts are women, something that would have been un heard of in the 1960s when the firm designed the first stages of the Reykjavik district heating system. It is a development Verkís is very proud of, having long since taken steps to ensure the

Verkís Consulting Engineers firm would not overlook women when hiring or providing staff opportunities for continuing pro fessional growth following their formal education. Further to this, in addition to operating ac cording to accredited ISO 9001 quality, ISO 14001 environmental management, and OHSAS 18001 health and safety management systems, Verkís also operates in accordance to an equality policy which emphasises equal opportunity irrespective of gender, both when it comes to our employees’ salaries and providing the individual employee the opportunity to rise to their potential in accordance to their education, aptitude and aspirations. This not only benefits the workplace but also our clients that are in each instance provided services conducted by engineers and experts that are kept abreast of the latest developments in their respective field. Due to the complexity involved, geothermal development projects encompass various com petence fields, including the geosciences and electrical, mechanical and civil engineering, to gether with project management, to name only the most general fields. Women are among the Verkís specialists employed within all com petences and their participation increases hand in hand with the rising number of female graduates with the required technical background. But it is not only our commitment to getting the best out of every employee, irrespective of gender, that

has made Verkís a choice place of employment for Icelandic engineers. For this we must also thank our clients that continue to provide us with challenging and unique projects which keep us at the vanguard of geothermal consultation. Examples of such challenging projects that were successfully finalised with our clients are the geothermal power plant Reykjanes owned by HS

Orka, Hellisheiði owned by Reykjavík Energy and the Theistareykir plant owned by Landsvirkjun, currently under construction. We at Verkís welcome the opportunity to discuss your geothermal planning or design needs.

www.verkis.com

Svartsengi Geothermal Power Plant.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Reykjanes Geopark

promotion

Volcanic and geothermal landscapes Mount Keilir (center), a 379 m (1243 ft) high volcano, is the best known landmark on Reykjanes peninsula. Easy to climb, the view from the top is magnificent. Sogin (front), is one of the many colourful geothermal areas on Reykjanes peninsula.

A Volcanic Wonderland Less than an hour’s drive from Reykjavík, the Reykjanes Geopark offers everything that makes Iceland amazing: Desolate volcanic landscapes, colorful geothermal formations, majestic mountains and steep ocean cliffs.

ne of two UNESCO-recognized areas of international geological significance in Iceland, the Reykjanes Geopark is a unique area. Sitting on the doorstep of Reykjavík, the area is full of natural and geo logical wonders, rugged lava fields, geothermal areas, and active volcanoes. Still, even though virtually all visitors to Iceland drive through the

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

park on their way from the airport to the Capital region, it is frequently overlooked by visitors. A barren desolate landscape On Reykjanes peninsula, the Mid-Atlantic Ridge rises above sea level. The ridge, which stretches beneath the Atlantic Ocean from the Arctic to the Antarctic, is formed because the tectonic plates on either side are drifting 2

centimetres (0.8 inches) annually in opposite directions. Along the ridge, magma wells up, creating the longest mountain range on earth. The Reykjanes peninsula is in fact the only place on Earth where you can actually walk along the ridge, seeing up close how the forces of nature constantly create new land. The 20 meter (66 feet) long footbridge, spann ing one of the many fissures created by the

Reykjanes Geopark and is characterized by closely spaced fractures referred to as fissure swarms, which stretch in a southwest to northeast direction. Chains of craters, like the Eldvörp chain, west of the Blue Lagoon, are a perfect example of these forces. The steam rising from geothermal vents along the craters reminds us of the enormous power beneath the surface. There are four major volcanic systems on the Reykjanes peninsula, two of which are within the Reykjanes Geopark: the Reykjanes and Krýsuvík systems. Two other major systems are just west of the Geopark: the Brennisteinsfjöll system and the Hengill fissure system. In addi tion to hundreds of open fissures, each system has a major high temperature geothermal system, characterized by intense surface activity that has created a diversity of colours contrast ing with the black lava and the lush green moss. The two major power plants in the Hengill system (Nesjavellir and Hellisheiði) supply the Capital region with much of its energy (see “NAME OF ARTICLES”). The energy of the

booming tourism industry has grown up to exploit this resource. But a second, less visible resource is also found in abundance in the region: geothermal energy, which has in recent years been harnessed to power industry. Striking a balance between these different ways of exploiting the valuable resources of the region is an important challenge for the 22,000 people who inhabit the villages and towns of the five municipalities on the peninsula. The most popular tourist destination in the Geopark, the famous Blue Lagoon, shows that these two industries can find fascinating ways to work together. The Blue Lagoon: from a makeshift secret pool to a world-famous tourist attraction The most famous of the tourist attractions in the Reykjanes Geopark is the Blue Lagoon. A man-made lagoon, it is one of two blue water pools in Iceland (the other is Mývatn Nature Baths), and contains 9 million litres (2.4 million gallons) of 37-39°C (99-102°F) hot geothermal sea water. The mineral-rich water is actually the

Craters, steam vents and bubbling mud pools Eldvörp (left), a 10 km long chain of craters, west of the Blue Lagoon. A path, known as Brauðstígur or “Bread-trail” connects the craters to the village of Grindavík to the south: Gunnuhver (right) is one of the most active geothermal areas in Reykjanes.

Reykjanes system, which is the westernmost of the volcanic systems, powers two major geo thermal power plants, Reykjanes and Svartsengi.

drifting apart of the tectonic plates, has been built near the village of Hafnir on the west coast of Reykjanes peninsula, to symbolically bridge the continents. The rugged lava fields of Reykjanes, covering much of the lowlands of the peninsula, are a perfect testament to the vol canic power of the region. The last major period of volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula began shortly before Iceland was settled, in the 8th and 9th centuries, and came to an end in the mid-13th century. In a series of 4–5 major erup tions, sixteen different lava fields were created. These young landscapes are still relatively barren, since very little vegetation other than moss has managed to colonize the hostile lava fields. Black lava fields and green energy The lava fields have been created by eruptions in the volcanic systems located along the penin sula. Each system has its own magma supply

Sustainable development, industry, and tourism Geoparks were first proposed as a UNESCO programme in 1999, to combine conservation, sustainable development, and community in volvement to protect and promote unique geo logical areas. Since its introduction, the idea has been adopted by increasing numbers of member states. There are over 120 Geoparks around the world. In September 2015, Reykjanes became the second Geopark in Iceland and the 66th member of the European Geoparks Network. The creation of the Reykjanes Geopark re flects a growing awareness by locals of the enor mous opportunities presented by the utilization of the resources created by the unique geology of the region. The region’s most obvious re source is the rugged landscape itself: the black lava fields, colourful geothermal areas, crater rows and volcanoes, and the basalt columns and cliffs along the shores. In recent years, a

discharge water of the nearby Svartsengi power plant. Fresh water and sea water, which can permeate the porous volcanic rock, is heated deep below the lava fields. At a depth of 250 meters (820 feet), the water reaches more than 200°C (390°F). The Svartsengi power plant uses this water to generate 75 MW of electricity and 150 MW in thermal energy. After the energy has been extracted from the water to power the local district heating utility and provide elect ricity for industry, the mineral-rich excess water is released into the nearby lava field. When the first phase of the power plant was built in 1977-79, locals discovered that the pools of discharge water were actually great for bathing. It was only in 1987 that the first makeshift facilities were built at the site, in cluding showers to wash before entering the pool, and perhaps more importantly, to wash off the silica after the relaxing bath. The popularity of the baths increased, and in 1999, the current facilities were opened. Recently the lagoon has been expanded to ensure it will be able to accommodate the 1,000,000 visitors who are expected this year. Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

UN Geothermal Training

Exporting The Expertise The Geothermal Training Programme of the United Nations University in Iceland.

ne of the most important ways in which the lessons learned in the geo thermal industry in Iceland have been shared with the wider world has been through the United Nations University Geo thermal Training Program, which is located in Reykjavík. Since its launch in 1979, the program has graduated hundreds of students from around the world, most from developing countries eager to learn how Iceland has harnessed green renewa ble energy to generate higher living standards. The Geothermal Training program is part of the UN University, which was established in 1973 to search for solutions to global problems. Headquartered in Tokyo, the University is com posed of different programs located around the world, in countries and places where important local expertise has been developed. The University was founded in the midst of the energy crisis of the 1970s, and developing new alternative energy sources was therefore one of

On location The program has graduated hundreds of students.

the first challenges taken up by the University. In 1976, Iceland offered to host a Geothermal Train ing Programme for just this purpose. Motivated by the oil shock of 1973, Icelanders were making a push at that time to expand geothermal district heating utilities so that oil and fossil fuels could be completely eliminated in home heating. Today the share of oil in heating homes is less than 1%.

The school has served to introduce experts from around the world to Icelandic expertise in utiliz ing geothermal energy, especially low-heat geo thermal fields, where Icelanders have achieved enormous success. Funded almost entirely by Iceland, the school offers a six-month training program in which people from developing coun tries with geothermal resources come to Iceland to work and study with local experts. Since its founding, the school has graduated 554 people from more than 50 different countries. The school has also sponsored students to attend graduate studies at the University of Iceland, and since 2005 the school has also organized shorter courses in developing countries. These courses have been attended by nearly 800 students from 30 different countries.

See more at: www.unugtp.is

Would you like to take on the great challenge of the 21st century of providing clean energy?

MASTERS IN RENEWEBLE ENERGY Birta Kristín Helgadóttir Environmental and Energy Engineer, EFLA Consulting Engineers

What is the most valuable lesson or opportunity that you got from the studies? • Good access to motivated, experienced and highly qualified teachers and instructors who inspired and encouraged the students • Diverse and fun group of students • Disciplined working methods/practices • Interesting guest lecturers • Good connections to the labour market • Student presentations which improve self-confidence and communication skills and will definitely be useful in the future

For further information visit: www.von.hi.is/re/en 34

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

SCHOOL OF ENGINEERING AND NATURAL SCIENCES

Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Hveragerði Geothermal Park promotion

Smoking Hot Town Centre The Hveragerði Geothermal Park is in the center of the scenic town of Hveragerði, approximately 45 km (28 mi) east of the capital, Reykjavík.

baked in the ground using the geothermal heat, which takes about 24 hours! Com plete the HotSpring bread with Icelandic

Deep heat The town is located on an active geothermal area.

butter and a boiled egg, which you can boil yourself in the hot stream! The geothermal area has been active for thousands of

ENNEMM / SÍA / NM74689

he town of Hveragerði is undoubtedly one of the few populated sites in the world located on an active geo thermal area. At the Geo thermal Park, visitors are invited to take a guided walk around the hot springs and learn about the geology and history of this unique area. The mud pots at the park produce material for natural mud baths. Visitors can experience the therapeutic benefits of the mud by taking a mud bath for the hands and feet, and there is also a foot bath of mineral-rich geothermal water to wash off the mud. Visitors can also enjoy a bite of de licious HotSpring bread. The bread is

years and is constantly changing, es pecially in earthquakes. The hot springs can change from boiling springs to fumaroles (steam fissures) or mud pots if the season is dry or the water table lowers. The mud baths in Hveragerði are a well-established part of Icelandic bath ing culture. The health benefits of the mud baths have been available since 1950, when a hospital started therapeutic treatments at the Geothermal Park in Hveragerði. The deep heat of the mud

during treatment helps to relax muscles and relieve pain. The mud baths are also effective for all kinds of skin disorders.

Geothermal park Hveramörk 13. 810 Hveragerði Tel:(+354)4835062 (+354) 4834601 www.facebook.com/ Geothermalpark

Corporate Banking

Your business is always on our mind Our goal is to make sure your business gets the financial services it needs to be successful. We go the extra mile to understand the challenges and opportunities facing your business and work closely with you to provide financial solutions that will help your business to grow. Expertise Grows from Enthusiasm.

Hjörtur Þór Steindórsson has years of experience in the energy industry. He is the Executive Director of the Energy Team at Íslandsbanki.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

ICELAND´S GEOTHERMAL

PA R T N E R SINCE 1945

w w w. I c e l a n d - d r i l l i n g . c o m

Iceland’s Endangered White Giants A guide to Iceland’s glaciers, what to do there & their claim to fame.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

The giant Vatnajökull glacier is Europe’s largest glacier by volume and area south of the Arctic Circle. It’s home to Hvanna dalshnjúkur peak, Iceland’s highest point, standing at 2,110 meters (6.921 ft). Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

cientists have predicted that Iceland’s glaciers may disappear within the next 100 to 150 years, if current trends of climate change are not reversed. And the outlook is not good at all, with 2015 the warmest year recorded since mankind started instrumental observations. Iceland’s glaciers have been retreating rapidly and losing volume for years, but they are still enor mous. According to the latest measurements, they cover about 11% of Iceland’s 103,000 square kilometers (39,768 square miles). The largest by far is Vatnajökull, covering 8% of Iceland. (Jökull=glacier in Icelandic) It’s so big that you could easily fit all of Iceland’s other glaciers within its boundaries. Actually, it’s so huge that you could fit the famous Mediterranean vacation islands Mallorca, Tenerife, Rhodes, and Ibiza on it, with quite a few square kilometers/miles to spare. If you think that glaciers are just a lump of monotone whiteness

of snow and ice, think again. Their visual impact can be borderline overwhelming. The colour palette ranges through all kinds of blue, grey, white, and even volcanic black. Their surfaces are jagged, ripped open by bottomless crevasses, with barren peaks reaching through the ice. The glaciers are also home to many of Iceland’s most notorious volcanoes, which regularly bring on a titanic struggle between fire and ice when the red-hot glowing magma breaks through to the surface. This is a world that you can easily visit and experience while you are in Iceland. You can do it on foot, skis, or, in some places, you can be transported by snowmobile, superjeep, or a pisten-bully. There are many guided tours available and we absolutely recommend travelling with an experienc ed guide. Glaciers can be very dangerous for the unfamiliar, and the weather can turn in just a matter of minutes. Even on a bright and sunny day, the wind can become almost unbearable on the glaciers. -jk

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

VATNAJÖKULL GLACIER Travel with an experienced guide, as crevasses in the glacier can be difficult to spot and dangerous. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

the planet. The 10 km (6.2 mi) wide caldera is located under a 600 to 850 meter (1,968 to 2,788 ft) thick ice cap in Vatnajökull glacier. Eruptions at Bárðarbunga produced the fabulous, molten lava Holuhraun fissures in 2014.

Claim to Hollywood fame

VATNAJÖKULL Southeast Iceland How big is it? ICE CAVES There are fantastic ice caves in the southern part of Vatnajökull, not far from the magical Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Vatnajökull covers an area of 8,100 km² (3,100 sq miles). The ice cap is on average 400 meters (1,300 feet) thick and around 1,000 m (3,300 ft) at its thickest. It’s Europe’s largest glacier by volume and area, south of the Arctic Circle.

Any other records?

ALIEN LANDSCAPE One of Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers is a stand-in for a far-away planet in Chris Nolan’s movie Interstellar. Matthew McConaughey pictured at Svínafellsjökull. Screenshot from the film’s trailer.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Iceland’s highest point, Hvannadalshnjúkur peak, is in Vatnajökull, standing at 2,110 m (6,921 ft). It is located on the northwestern rim of the ice-covered crater of Öræfajökull volcano, one of the largest active volcanoes in the country (last eruption 1727-1728). In fact, Vatnajökull is home to many of Iceland’s active volcanoes, including Bárðarbunga, which is at the center of a 200 km (124 mi) long volcanic system, one of the largest on

Vatnajökull (and some of the 30 outlet glaciers that flow from the ice cap) can be spotted in various feature films and TV shows. The imposing glacier is a stand-in for a far-away planet in Chris Nolan’s Interstellar. It played a prominent role in Nolan’s Batman Begins movie, was featured in the James Bond classic, A View to Kill, and in the second season of Game of Thrones, just to name a few examples.

What can you do there? There are various guided tours on offer. You can ski, hike, climb ice, snowmobile, take a superjeep tour on the glacier, and you can scale Hvannadalshnjúkur peak. It’s recommended to travel with an experienced guide, as crevasses in the glacier can be difficult to spot and dangerous. One of the best places to explore ice caves in Iceland is in the southern part of Vatnajökull, not far from the magical Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.

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Iceland’s Endangered White Giants

LANGJÖKULL West Iceland How big is it? Langjökull is Iceland’s second-largest ice cap covering 953 km2 (368 sq mi). The ice is up to 580 m (1,900 ft) thick. The highest point is called Baldjökull and is at the northern end of the glacier, standing 1,450 m (4,760 ft) above sea level. Langjökull is Europe’s second-largest glacier south of the Arctic Circle.

Claim to fame Langjökull is the home of a man-made Ice Cave, a 500 meter (1,640 ft) long ice tunnel featuring a chapel, exhibition spaces, and a restaurant.

What can you do there?

MONSTER TRUCK MONSTER TRUCK A modified MAN vehicle transports guests to the mouth of the Ice Cave.

HOFSJÖKULL The central highlands How big is it? Hofsjökull is Iceland’s third-largest glacier, covering 925 km2 (357 sq mi). Its highest point is 1,765 m (5,791 ft) above sea level. Under the ice cap is a huge dormant volcano.

Claim to fame

You can, of course, visit the Ice Cave; it’s the only structure of its kind in Iceland. You can hike and ski on the glacier, you can even go camping, and its vast ice plains makes it particularly well-suited for snowmobiling and superjeep tours. Several companies offer trips for every level of skill and ambition.

What can you do there? You can hike on the glacier, but it’s steep and difficult to negotiate, with deep crevasses. A trip on the glacier is only recommended for experienced and well-prepared mountaineers. Hofsjökull is located in the center of the central highlands and, due to the location and the challenging conditions, is much less travelled than Iceland’s other large glaciers.

Hofsjökull is the source of Iceland’s longest river, Þjórsá, and several other rivers. From September 2014 to September 2015, Hofsjökull gained mass for the first time in 21 years. Most of Iceland’s other glaciers have been retreating rapidly and losing volume for years.

MAJESTIC WASTELAND Hofsjökull glacier is located bang in the middle of Iceland’s central highlands—land that has been burnt by volcanoes for centuries and then stripped naked by the relentless ferocity of long winters. Photo Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015

MÝRDALSJÖKULL South Iceland How big is it? Mýrdalsjökull is Iceland’s fourth-largest ice cap, covering 596 km2 (230 sq mi). It’s located on the south coast. The summit is 1,493 m (4,898 ft) above sea level.

Claim to fame Mýrdalsjökull is the home of Katla, one of Iceland’s most feared volcanoes. The closely monitored magma chamber of Katla is 2 km (1.24 mi) below the top of the ice cap. Katla last erupted in 1918. Until then, eruptions at an interval of 13 to 95 years marked its history, so volcanologists expect it to blow its top any day now.

What can you do there? Sólheimajökull The long outlet glacier on the southwest side of Mýrdalsjökull is a very popular travel destination. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

You can hike or take snowmobile tours on the glacier. Sólheimajökull, the long outlet glacier on the southwest side of Mýrdalsjökull, is a very popular travel destination. It’s close to the Ring Route, with a good parking space nearby, and it’s easily accessible for hikers. Sólheimajökull has retreated up to 50 meters (164 feet) every year since 1986.

Glacier Jeeps - Ice & Adventure Glacier Jeeps - Ice & Adventure offer adventure tours with specially equipped 4WD superjeeps and skidoos, or glacier hiking tours on the great Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier.

Tours are available all year round May-Oct daily 9.30 AM and at 14.00 PM Departure from: F985 (GPS: N 64°1344,7 W 0,15° 4159,3) Visit Ic e lan d m ag . c o m

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Oct - May please call for departure time Deperture from: Vagnsstaðir Hostel (GPS: N64° 16 09,0 - W 0,15° 4858,6 ) Minimum: 2 persons Duration: 3 hours, one hour on skodoo snowmobile. Reservations needs to be made.

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Iceland’s Endangered White Giants

THE PERFECT MOUNTAIND Snæfellsjökull glacier is one of Iceland’s most beautiful mountains, decorating Reykjavík’s northwest horizon, at an aerial distance of about 120 km (75 miles). Photo/GVA

SNÆFELLSJÖKULL West Iceland

Claim to fame Snæfellsjökull served as the magnificent setting of the famous 19th-century novel, Journey to the Center of the Earth, by Jules Verne.

How big is it? Covering only 11 km2 (4.2 sq mi), Snæfellsjökull is the picturesque glacier you can see across the bay from Reykjavik on a clear day. Its summit is at 1,446 m (4,744 ft) above sea level.

EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL South Iceland

How big is it? Eyjafjallajökull is the subglacial volcano to the west of Mýrdalsjökull. It covers 78 km2 (30 sq mi) and its summit is 1,666 m (5,466 ft) high.

Claim to fame When Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010, it was felt throughout the northern hemisphere. The dispersal of the ash cloud shut down all aviation across the North Atlantic for one week; 313 airports were closed and 104,000 international flights between Europe and North America were cancelled.

What can you do there? You can hike on the glacier. Between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull is one of

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

What can you do there? You can hike, ski, and snowmobile on the glacier. The hike is done from the south side and is relatively easy.

Iceland’s most popular hiking routes. Fimmvörðuháls pass. In the new movie Star Wars: Episode VII, the footage featuring Chewbacca and some Stormtroopers that takes place on Hoth, a desolate planet covered in ice and snow, was shot at Eyjafjallajökull glacier.

ON THE BEACH Two of Drangajökull’s outlet glaciers reach almost to the sea. Photo/Johann Dréo/Wikipedia

DRANGAJÖKUL The Westfjords How big is it? Drangajökull covers 160 km2 (62 sq mi). It’s located in the Westfjords region and is Iceland’s northernmost glacier.

Claim to fame It’s the only glacier in the country that is entirely below the altitude of 1,000 m (3,281 ft), rising highest above sea level at 925 m (3,035 ft). Like Hofsjökull, it has gained mass in recent years.

What can you do there? You can hike, ski, snowmobile, and do superjeep tours on the glacier.

Icelandic Highlands

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Highland oasis Kýlingar area, in the Friðland að Fjallabaki region. Photo/Roar Aagestad

Save the Icelandic Highlands – the Heart of Iceland Please help us protect the Icelandic Highlands and contribute to our efforts by signing the pledge on our website www.heartoficeland.org

ver the last few decades, the Icelandic Highlands have been under siege, threatened by increasing pressure to build power plants, paved roads, and power lines. That demand comes from energy companies but 80% of all electricity produced in Iceland is sold to polluting industries, such as aluminum smelters. The Icelandic Highlands form one of the largest territories in Europe, south of the Arctic Circle, which has never been inhabited or cultivated and are considered one of the last great wild ernesses in Europe. In a Capacent-Gallup poll in 2015, the majority of respondents (over 60%) said they favored a national park in the Highlands and 80% of tourists name nature as a main reason for visiting Iceland. We need your help to protect our pristine nature in the Highlands.

The map of Iceland These are the proposed plans in the highlands. 220kW high voltage overhead power line over Sprengisandur plateau, built up paved roads over Kjölur and Sprengisandur plateau and up to fifteen new power plants. Read more about the proposed plans and their effects at www.heartoficeland.org

Landvernd, the Icelandic Environ ment Association, is an NGO that was founded in 1969. It is the largest environmental NGO in Iceland with 3900 members. Landvernd focuses on environmental education,

environmental management and en vironmental policy- and protection in Iceland. One of Landvernd´s biggest battles at the moment, is the fight to protect the Highlands of Iceland from energy production.

Learn more about Landvernd here www.landvernd.is/en

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Social Progress

Foundations of Well-being Ranking number four of 133 countries in the Social Progress Index, Iceland manages to turn economic growth into social goods for its citizens. In an interview with Magnús Sveinn Helgason, Michael Green, the director of the Social Progress Imperative, explains the index and discusses Iceland’s case study.

Text by Magnús Sveinn Helgason Photos by Anton brink

celand has the fifteenth highest gross domestic product (GDP) per capita in the world, and has been remarkably successful at translating economic growth into desirable social benefits for its citizens,” Michael Green, the execu tive director of the Social Progress Imperative, points out. In the 2015 Social Progress Index (SPI), which measures how well societies meet the basic human needs of their citizens while providing opportunities and laying the found ations for long-term well-being, Iceland ranked fourth among 133 countries. “Societies are not all equally success ful at doing this,” he adds. Models of human development that only look at economic growth are simply inadequate, Green says. The US is an excellent example. With the fifth highest GDP per capita, the US ranks only sixteenth in the Social Progress Index.

Avoiding “empty” economic growth We sat down with Michael Green when he was in Reykja vík to prepare an international conference, “Social Progress – What works?” which will held in Harpa, Reykjavík, on April 28. The conference, which brings together prominent business leaders and economists, will explore several success stories, including Iceland, to understand how some countri es and regions are more successful at achieving social pro gress and how these successes can be replicated elsewhere. Green explains that the first step is to shift our focus away from narrow measures of economic output. “We can have ‘empty’ economic growth, which does not necessarily lead to progress. We have seen numerous cases of countries hav ing significant economic growth, without it really translat ing into social goods or progress for people.” The problem lies with the wrong priorities.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Today the overriding goal of economic policy and debate are increases in gross domestic product, a measure of the total value of all goods and services produced in an eco nomy. “As a tool to help guide economic policy, GDP has done a lot of good, improving people’s lives, but it has be come clear it is not enough.”

Measuring as the first step to revolution We have not been setting ourselves the correct objectives, Green argues. “We have focused too much on the short term. We need to start taking a longer-term view,” investing in long-term prosperity and social viability. This, he argues, requires a “revolution in how we use capital.” Crucially, we must recognize that “spending on social goods is not just a cost, but also an investment in growth and future prosperity.” Green argues that we need “a fundamental revolution in our priorities. But, if GDP is not enough, what else do we need?” The Social Progress Index offers the best alterna tive. By providing a robust measure of social progress, it is the first step in re-focusing economic policy. “It is intended as a revolution. By changing how we measure the perform ance of economies, we can change how we do things.”

An alternative to GDP “Measurement is fundamental to the paradigm shift we need,” Green explains. “When GDP was introduced, as a tool for economic policy makers during the Great Depressi on, it helped propel such a paradigm shift. It helped shift the focus away from ‘sound finance,’ which had preoccupied policy makers under the gold standard, to a focus on full employment and growth, which became the primary focus of economic policies in the postwar years.”

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Social Progress

Barry Eichengreen, one of the most prominent economic historians of our time, has argued that the “golden fetters” Iceland scores of economic policies associated high (95 out of a with the gold standard drove 100 possible) in policy makers to sacrifice meeting basic economic growth on the altar of human needs. sound fiscal policy. Massive Here a major unemployment and economic strength is the misery were seen as a reasonable high level of price to pay for adherence to the personal safety, rules of the gold standard which includes system. both crime and “Providing a reliable measure the perceived of total economic output, which level of crime. had not existed prior to 1932 when Simon Kuznets introduced the measure in a report to US Congress, was an important step in re-orienting economic policy” to meet real needs, create full employment and growth, Green argues. But while a focus on economic growth made sense in a world characterized by underutilized resources and relative scarcity, it makes less sense today.

Several other indexes have tried to go beyond GDP. The Human Development Index, created by the Indian economist Amartya Sen, is one example. None of these alternatives, Green argues, achieve what the SPI does. The main difference lies in the fact that the SPI uses no econom ic indicators or measures that are already components of GDP: “All other attempts to construct alternative indexes mix up social and economic indicators. The SPI includes no economic indicators and it only looks at measurable outcomes, aggregating these to a single score.” Many alternative indexes look at input measures, such as spending on health care, the number of doctors, or laws passed, instead of measuring output and the actual provision of actual social goods, like public health or safety. “Countries are not equally successful in turning such spending into positive social goods,” Green points out. The US, which spends more per capita on health care than almost any other nation (17.1% of GDP in 2013, according to the World Bank), but performs very poorly when it comes to public health, is a good example. In comparison, Iceland spends 9.1% of its GDP on health care, and has significantly higher health and wellness, scoring an 80.96 in this component of the SPI, compared to 68.66 for the US.

Why does Iceland rank high? Turning spending into results The Social Progress Index ranks 133 countries and 271 regions and cities from Europe to Latin America on multiple dimensions of social and environmental performance in three main categories: Basic human needs, defined as nutri tion, water and sanitation, shelter and personal safety; foundations of well-being, which the index measures as basic education, access to information, health and wellness, and ecosystem sustainability; and finally, opportunity, which is defined as personal rights and freedom of choice, freedom from discrimination, and access to higher education.

Iceland certainly seems to have been successful in turning economic growth into social goods. A comparison to a peer group of countries with a similar GDP per capita shows that Iceland does as well or significantly better than what we might expect. Iceland scores high (95 out of a 100 possible) in meeting basic human needs. Here a major strength is the high level of personal safety, which includes both crime and the perceived level of crime, which can affect the quality of life just as much as actual crime. A low level of traffic deaths is also an important factor. Iceland’s main strength, however, is in the foundations of well-being category. Access to basic knowledge is very high in Iceland, and so is access to information. Iceland has more internet users than any other country: 98% of Icelanders are online, according to a recent study. Iceland also scores high on wellness and health, although obesity is a problem, as in many other devel oped countries. Finally, Iceland does extremely well on tole rance and inclusion. “There are a number of areas where Ice land has a lot to teach other countries,” Green argues.

Reykjavík as the “Davos of Social Progress”

Michael Green “There are number of areas where Iceland has a lot to teach other countries.”

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

The conference that will be held in Harpa at the end of April will provide an opportunity to identify these lessons. But Green hopes it will do something more. Iceland, he believes, could provide the ideal location to refocus our attention on producing social goods and long-term pro sperity, rather than simply generating higher GDP figures, or growth for its own sake. The conference would in time become an annual event. These meetings would then become an alternative, or a counterweight to the annual meetings in Davos, Switzer land, where the world’s most senior policy makers and economists meet to debate economic policy. “Davos is the global capital for international policy discussions on eco nomic competition. Reykjavík could become the global capital focusing on social progress.”

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Iceland Mag explains

Laugardalslaug swimming pool This is Iceland’s biggest swimming pool and is open year round. It’s located in the Laugardalur area in Reykjavík. Photo/Stefán Karlsson

Bring your kids Q: We’re visiting Iceland with our son, who’s almost 2 years old. Are there things to do that are great for his age? A: Reykjavík (and other towns) is dotted with great playgrounds for children. At the Kjarvalsstaðir Museum you can enjoy art exhibitions and have a good cup of coffee while the children mess around in the museum’s “kid’s corner.” Another extremely family-friendly place is the Laundromat café at Austurstræti in Reykjavík. It serves a lovely children’s brunch and has a spacious and well-equipped children’s play area on the lower floor. The swimming pools are also a good option, any time of year. The pools are warm and cozy all year round and are guaranteed to keep your little cherubs entertained for hours on end. And so should a visit to Bjarteyjar sandur farm in Hvalfjörður fjord, West Iceland (just to the north of Reykjavik). Children love to visit the farm animals and a scavenger hunt on the beach is sure to be a hit.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Casual but smart The pools are warm and cozy all year round and are guaranteed to keep your little cherubs entertained for hours on end.

Question: When dining in a more upscale restaurant in Reykjavík, is any particular attire required? Answer: No, Icelanders are not particularly strict on dress codes. Think ‘casual but smart’ when dining Matur & drykkur at upscale restaurant Located in the restaurants. All Grandi area in Reykjavík. restaurants will serve you, regardless of your fashion, but you might feel out of place wearing outdoor clothing or ripped jeans to dinner at Reykjavík’s more fashionable restaurants.

Featured in the Washington Post and on CBS Sunday Morning

REYKJAVIK

WALK THE CRASH A guided tour through the causes and consequences of the 2008 crash of the Icelandic banks with an expert Tour some of the sights of the Icelandic “financial miracle” and one of the largest banking crashes in world history. This tour offers a unique insight into the 2008 financial crash and Icelandic society, the most dramatic events in recent Icelandic history. How and why did Reykjavík aspire to become a global financial center, a “Dubai of the North”? Who were the “Corporate Vikings” and did they bury their treasures in Tortola? Why did the banks collapse? Was it all a giant Ponzi scheme? And why have so many bankers been sent jail? Magnús Sveinn Helgason is an economic historian at the University of Bifröst and worked for the Althingi Special Investigative Commission on the Collapse of the Financial System. HERE’S WHAT PEOPLE HAVE TO SAY: “Magnus is the best city guide I’ve encountered anywhere, bar none. … I have written several academic essays about Iceland’s boom, crash, and partial recovery… Still, I learned a whole lot from this guided walk-about that I did not know, so I kept exclaiming ‘Aha!’” Robert H. Wade, professor of political economy, London School of Economics

“This was one of the most interesting tours I’ve ever done. Magnús is a great storyteller…” Tripadvisor user Madelijne1, Amsterdam, The Netherlands Reviewed December 12, 2015

“Wow! This was a phenomenal tour. Our guide was so knowledgeable and weavved a great story…” Tripadvisor user Rosemary W, Toronto, Canada, Reviewed August 17, 2015

Tours start at Austurvöllur Square in front of the parliament (Althingi) Duration: 2.5 hours Cost: 3,500 ISK (29 USD / 20 GBP / 25 EUR) per participant For private tours contact walk.the.crash@gmail.com Registration and further information at www.citywalk.is

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Looking to move? Citizens living in member states of the European Economic Area (EEA) may acquire property rights in Iceland without the permission of the Minister of Justice. Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson

How hard is it for foreigners to purchase property in Iceland? Question: How hard is it for foreigners to purchase property in Iceland? Answer: Citizens living in member states of the European Economic Area (EEA) may acquire property rights in Iceland without the permission of the Minister of Justice. These include;

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Employees who are citizens of a member state of the EEA and who work as such in Iceland, or have EEA-residence permit; EEA- and EFTAcitizens who have established themselves, or intend to establish themselves, in Iceland in order to engage in independent business opera tions; EEA- and EFTA-citizens and companies

who are domiciled in another member state and have established, or intend to establish, a branch or an agent’s office in Iceland, or who intend to render services in Iceland. Non-EEA citizens must have domicile in Ice land in order to purchase real property in the country and need the minister’s permission.

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Long summer days Question: How long are the summer days in Iceland? A: Around the summer solstice (June 21st), the sun is visible for a full 24 hours in the Westfjords and for about 21 hours in Reykjavík. Answer: Around the summer solstice (June 21st), the sun is visible for a full 24 hours in the Westfjords and for about 21 hours in Reykjavík. During the winter solstice, on the other hand, the days are dramatically shorter, with only 4 hours of daylight in Reykjavík and a mere 2 hours and 45 minutes in the Westfjords. THE SUN VOYAGER The sun is visible for about 21 hours in Reykjavík on the 21st of June. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.

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the warmth of Iceland Varma is dedicated to maintaining Icelandic tradition in developing, designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling.

Varma is available in various tourist shops around Iceland

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Microbrew

Beers To You

The Downtown Microbrew Walk: A guided walk through the history of beer in Iceland.

Skál Kaldi Bar on Klapparstígur street is the final destination of the tour. In addition to beer, participants also have the opportunity to taste Iceland’s signature liquor Brennivín (a.k.a. “black death”) with a piece of fermented shark, which is not for the faint-hearted.

ne of the many strange things about Iceland is the fact that beer was actually banned until very recently. From 1915 to 1989, you couldn’t buy alcoholic beer anywhere! On March 1, 1989 (known as “Beer Day” ever since), this unique and strange ban on beer was abolished, thus finally giving Icelanders a chance to legally enjoy this second most popular drink in the world. A Microbrew Revolution

It took Icelanders a few years to get accustomed to this new drink. For the first decade and a half, virtually all beer sold in Iceland was standard, mass-pro duced pale lager. But in the last ten years, Iceland has experienced a true “microbrew revolution.” This revolu tion started in 2006, when the first microbrewery, brewing the popular Kaldi beer, opened in the small village of Árskógssandur in North Iceland.

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2016

Garún The 11.5% alcohol by volume Icelandic Stout is intensely rich and its aroma has notes of chocolate, licorice, and coffee.

Since then, numerous new microbrew eries have been launched by adventur ous Icelandic brewers, experimenting with new ingredients, continually ex panding the selection of high quality beers in Iceland. The scale and scope of this revolution is truly striking. Currently there are nine microbreweries and brewpubs in operation in Iceland, with three more preparing to launch. This figure is pretty remarkable when we compare it to the total population of Iceland: Iceland has one microbrewery for every 37,000 inhabitants, twice as many as the US, which has one for every 80,000 inhabitants. From the Viking age to the present

This spring, the tour operator Creative Iceland is offering a 2.5-hour guided walk which takes you to some of the

best microbrew bars in downtown Reykjavík. The guide, Magnús Helga son, a historian, journalist, and veteran bartender, will introduce guests to the colorful history of beer in Iceland and the “microbrew revolution”—its causes and consequences. The tour also aims at introducing people to the history of Reykjavík and Iceland through the unique history of beer from the Viking age to the present. Why was beer not permitted until 1989? What do beer and hot tubs have to do with the settlement of Reykjavík? What did Icelanders drink during the beer-ban years, and what has propelled the recent explosion of craft brewing in Iceland? This is not just the story of beer, it really is the story of Iceland and one of the strangest aspects of Icelandic culture and history.

The tours are offered on Sunday afternoons, and by appointment. For booking, prices, further information, and inquiries head over to www.creativeiceland.is

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