Iceland Magazine May 2015 by Iceland Magazine

How insects can be harvested for food P 18

Issue 03 2015

From Africa to Iceland

P 22

Investigating the Sagas

P 44

T r av e l 路 N at u r e 路 n e w s 路 P e o p l e 路 C u lt u r e

Yo ur

co py

p.34

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink

p.28

Preserving Sprengisandur

The magnificent highland desert Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e

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Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

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Contents

from the editor

Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com

Priceless

and that could be not be cultivated and didn’t have enough vegetation for even the rugged breed of Icelandic sheep to gnaw on, was for centuries considered pretty much worthless in Iceland. This description fits the largest part of Iceland’s central highlands. That area was so bleak that in 1965 and 1967 a group of astronauts from NASA went there to practice in an environment similar to what they would later encounter on the moon. The old farmer’s conviction of how to value land was hard wired into the minds of a big part of the nation for most of the 20th century. It all came down to how much profit could be drawn from a particular area. Maybe this is still the prevailing school of thought in Iceland. What has changed, however, is that now the benchmark is neither crops nor nourishment for sheep, but tourists. The untouched wilderness has been the biggest magnet for visitors to Iceland for decades. While tourism was a parttime player in Iceland’s economy, nature preservation was considered by many as a hobby for soft lefties, not something that could determine the nation’s financial wellbeing. Flying that flag, politicians put into motion a huge hydro electric project in the southeast part of the central highlands. It began in 2003 and was finished in 2007, and it left dammed rivers and a large reservoir in an area that was previously the second largest unspoiled wilderness in Europe. It was a massively controversial project, but environmental groups did not have enough muscle to stop it, and polls also showed that the majority of the nation, not yet aware of the value and irreplaceability of pristine wilderness, was in favour of it. How the tables have turned! Tourism is now Iceland’s most important business. For the last few years, it has accounted for more than a quarter of the country’s income from foreign sources, making it the largest export product. And the most important resource for tourism is Iceland’s unspoiled nature. So now we have the environmentalists and the capitalists joining forces in the fight to save the highlands from encroaching development. That should be an unbreakable alliance.

28 Contents 6-20 Lookout 6 Visiting new land 8 Clean Beaches & Chewbacca 10 Tuk Tuk in Reykjavík 12 Band of Horses 14-16 Reykjavík Arts Festival, Travelling into a volcano, Saga Music Festival and more highlights ahead 18 Eating Insects An Icelandic startup that makes food products using edible insects is raising funds on Kickstarter and interest around the globe. 22 Go North Four people from four African countries have made their home on this small island in the North Atlantic. 28 Awe-Inspiring Wasteland Sprengisandur, a primitive desert plateau between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers in the central highlands, is one of Iceland’s most remote and desolate areas. 34 Best of Icelandic Food & Drink Fresh water, fresh fish, free-roaming sheep, and rye bread baked underground in geothermal areas: Gastronomes have plenty to look forward to when visiting Iceland.

IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Jóna María Hafsteinsdóttir jmh@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Björn Árnason, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Jerel Lai, Ernir Eyjólfsson, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: A cooked cod's head (see feature p. 34). Photo by Björn Árnason Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

44 Investigating the Manuscripts Did you know that the most famous Sagas of Icelanders: ‘The Saga of Burnt Njáll’ (Brennu-Njáls Saga), is preserved in 60 manuscripts? Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.

48 Iceland Magazine Explains Where can I get a permit for fly fishing in Iceland? Is there tipping in Iceland? And other burning questions. 54 Spotting Puffins Puffin colonies are located all around Iceland but there are a few places where your chances of catching the bird are more likely than others.

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Lookout Holuhraun

New land The big Holuhraun eruption’s main crater. The eruption was in the central highlands, far from Iceland’s inhabited areas. A screenshot from a video by Gísli Gíslason, pilot at helicopter service Norðurflug (see: helicopter.is)

Visiting New Land

he volcanic eruption in Holuhraun in central Iceland made international headlines when it began in late August last year. For 181 days, the fissure continued to spew out great amounts of lava that now cover an area 85 square kilometres (33 sq miles) in size. The caldera and the new lava field, often dubbed Nornahraun (Witch’s Lava), have remained off-limits to the public since the start of the eruption. However, travel restrictions to areas north of the eruption site have now been revoked, allowing the public access to the area. Current restrictions bar access to an area that stretches 20 metres (66 feet) from the northern edge of the new lava field towards Dyngjujökull glacier to the south, along the course of the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum to the east, and the river’s western most branches to the west. Park rangers in Vatnajökull National Park and the police continue to patrol the area around the eruption site for safety reasons. But the rangers have also begun to mark easily accessi ble view-points where hikers can enjoy the amazing sights and the vast, new lava field. – SM

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13

Travel restrictions to the Holuhraun eruption site have been partially revoked, allowing the public access to parts of the area.

Burnt out Scientist from the Institute of Earth Scientist visiting the main crater for the first time, at the beginning of March this year, only a few days after the eruption stopped.

Photo/Ármann Höskuldsson

Holuhraun

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Lookout highlights ahead

Hornbjargsviti lighthouse There are no roads to the area. It can only be accessed by foot or boat. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Beach Cleaning Care about the coast? Interested in the wilderness? Then you should team up with volunteers who are visiting the remote Hornstrandir Nature Reserve on May 23rd to clean the beaches.

he Westfjords’ northeastern region was inhabi ted until the middle of the twentieth century, when the last farmers and fishermen moved away. A lighthouse keeper stayed at the Hornbjargsviti lighthouse until 1995. Since he packed his bags, no one lives there year round. There are no roads to the area and low-flying planes are banned in order to maintain the serenity of the area. This is Iceland’s most remote part outside of the central highlands. All kinds of plastics and parts of fishing nets are washed up onto the shore, threatening birds and marine wildlife when the animals accidentally eat or become entangled in the litter. Last year, volunteers cleaned

Chewbacca spotted filming on Eyjafjallajökull glacier

ast year, a film crew from the Star Wars franchise made a stealth visit to Iceland to shoot some scenes for the next installment of the series, Star Wars: Episode VII. According to the news site Vísir, the filmmakers will be back this spring. Director JJ Abrams’s team was rumored to

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

have shot some footage for Hoth scenes featuring Chewbacca and the old school Stormtroopers at Eyjafjallajökull glacier in South Iceland. As all Star Wars fans know, Hoth is a desolate planet covered in ice and snow. Previously, shooting for Hoth was done in Norway, but we guess that snow and ice look pretty

beaches in Hlöðuvík cove and Kjaransvík cove, both located in Hornstrandir. Now the plan is to focus on Látravík cove, where Hornbjargsviti lighthouse is located, and the surrounding area. A boat will take the volunteers from the village of Ísafjörður to Hornstrandir. Participants should pack a lunch, but at the end of the working day the Ísafjörður municipality will host a barbecue at the lighthouse. Move fast if you are interested. The boat can only transport a limited number of people. To sign up or for further information: postur@isafjordur.is

much the same on one glacier to another. The crew also filmed some scenes in the geothermal area close to Lake Víti (or Lake Hell in English), in North Iceland. According to Vísir, the Star Wars crew is heading back to that area within a few weeks. Star Wars: Episode VII will premiere in December this year. Welcome back Chewbacca and a bunch of Stormtroopers reportedly scaled Eyjafjallajökull glacier, home to Iceland’s famous volcano, last year.

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art and Ever felt likeIcelandic a Viking? At Viking World you can board history? a real viking ship, the Icelander, that sailed from Iceland to Welcome to Duushús in New York in the year 2000. the heart of Reykjanesbær Also 4 other exhibitions only 5 minutes from Keflavík • Vikings of the North Atlantic int´l airport. • SettlementFree of Iceland – entrance Archaeological Findings – Maritime Center • Fate of the–Gods Norse Art –Exhibitions mythology – Design

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Enjoy the sights The tuk tuk can easily take you down all of Reykjavík’s charming old streets for the ultimate guided tour of the city. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Tuk Tuk and away! Tuk Tuk Tours offers customers a unique experience, while enjoying Reykjavík’s sights in an eco-friendly manner.

uk Tuk Tours is the latest, and one of the most delightful additions to the colourful roster of Icelandic tour operators. Owned and run by Ólafur Guðmundsson, a veteran in the tourism industry, horticulturist Páll Fróðason, and journalist and historian Kolbeinn Óttarsson Proppé, the company aims to offer customers a unique ex perience, while enjoying Reykjavík’s sites in an eco-friendly manner. It was Ólafur who first got the idea of importing electric auto rickshaws into Iceland. The idea had been percolating for some time before he finally took the plunge and brought Kolbeinn and Páll on board. The rickshaws are manufactured in the Nether lands, are environmentally friendly, quiet, EUcertified, and very durable: perfect for Icelandic weather conditions. Kolbeinn and Ólafur will operate six tuk tuks, each of which can carry up to six passengers. Due to the three-wheeler’s compact size, it can easily take you down all of Reykjavík’s charming old streets, and even into some tight corners where tour buses can’t fit.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

The tours begin at Harpa Concert Hall and will cover every sight in Reykjavik worth seeing: Hallgrímskirkja Church, the bustling Grandi harbour area, the Parliament, the City Hall, the Pond, the charming old Grjótaþorp neighbour hood, and many other historical sites.

“We’re very careful when it comes to choosing our staff. What we’d like to see, and actually encourage, is that each of them brings their own individual style to the tours,” Kolbeinn explains. The company will operate all year around, also during winter.

All aboard! This summer, Tuk Tuk Tours will also operate from Skarfabryggja harbour, on the east side of Reykjavík, where international cruise ships dock, making it easy for passengers to jump off the boat and into a rickshaw for an informative and interesting tour of Iceland’s capital. Booking: Online, or at the information desk in Harpa Concert Hall. Price: 7,500 ISK per person

Operate all year around The chauffeurs will tell passengers all about downtown Reykjavík and its sites and land marks. Passengers will experience the historic sites, the architecture, the main tourist attrac tions, and the everyday life of the residents of Reykjavík’s oldest neighbourhoods in a unique way.

“The tuk tuks are roofed, heated, and have allseason tires and safety belts, meaning our customers will be able to stay snug and safe while enjoying the city’s sites, no matter the season,” Kolbeinn concludes with a smile.

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Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Band

Horses

Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Before cars took over transport in this rugged land, Icelanders used to refer to the Icelandic horse as “the most useful servant” (“þarfasti þjónninn”). This relatively small breed has been developed through centuries in Iceland. Although the animals are small, even pony-sized, they are in fact horses and not ponies. The Icelandic horse has a lively temperament and a strong but docile character. It’s considered to be extremely friendly, making it highly sought after by breeders around the world. More than one thousand horses are exported each year, most of them to Germany. The importing of horses is prohibited by law, due to the risk of disease—meaning that only Icelandic breeds exist in the country. There are around 80,000 horses in Iceland. You can’t help noticing them while travelling around the island. You should stop by and say hello. - jk

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Lookout highlights ahead

Documentary film festival in the Westfjords Skjaldborg, an annual documentary film festival taking place in Patreksfjörður, features new and interesting Icelandic documentaries by upcoming filmmakers and veterans alike. A selection of long, short, weird, cheap, and expensive movies, which otherwise would not reach the wider public, are screened during the festival. A must for any film enthusiast! See: skjaldborg.com When: May 22-25.

The Wonderwagon of the Reykjavík Art Scene The Wonderwagon will be driving around Reykjavík, picking up local authors, musicians, and painters on the way, providing passengers with an amusing and unique taste of the Reykjavík art scene. The bus comes complete with a grand piano, chandeliers, and three hosts: TV personality Eva María Jónsdóttir, pianist Nanna Hlíf Ingvadóttir, and performance artist Ilmur Stefánsdóttir. Each trip begins at 5pm and lasts an hour and a half.

Volcano Museum Opens The Volcano Museum in the town of Stykkishólmur in west Iceland is open from May 1st to the end of September. This is a wonderful museum curated and owned by world-renowned volcanologist Haraldur Sigurðsson. Diverse aspects of volcanoes are examined, from the science, geology and their environmental effects to how they appear in the arts and literature. Talks are given daily in English and Icelandic. www.eldfjallasafn.is/

When: Fridays, May 08, 15, 22 and 29. See: www.en.harpa.is

Fun in Flói Join locals for a weekend of wholesome country fun in the Flóahreppur district. In recent years, the country fair has included a flea market, exhibitions, agricultural machinery exhibitions, games for the children, and homemade refreshments. What: Fjör í Flóa When: May 29-31.

The Creative Work of Women Reykjavík Arts Festival (Listhátíð Reykjavíkur) will kick off for the 29th time on May 13th. The title of this year’s festival is “First Part,” and it is dedicated to the creative work of women.

he Festival will open on May 13th with a perform ance by the dance group BANDALOOP, which weaves together choreography and the art of climbing to turn the dance floor on its side. In other words, the dancers perform in harnesses on cliffs or walls of buildings. In Reykjavík, they will scale and dance on the walls of Aðalstræti 6, in the centre of the capital. The Reykjavík Arts Festival is held every year in May and is one of Northern

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Vertical dancing Bandaloop was founded by choreographer and artistic director Amelia Rudolph.

Europe’s oldest and most respected arts festivals. For two to three weeks it presents, to the widest possible audience, exhibitions and performances of contemporary and classical works. The artists perform in major cultural venues and also in unconventional spaces throughout the city. More than 400 artists will participate in or contribute to this year’s program. Among them are The Guerrilla Girls, the masked American feminist group that has been shaking up the art world at home and abroad since its first streetart posters started appearing in New York in the 1980’s. For the Reykjavík Arts Festival, the Guerrilla Girls have created a new billboard,

which will be unveiled in the city centre on the festival’s opening day. They will also make an appearance in full jungle drag on the festival’s closing weekend. In 2015, Icelandic women celebrate the 100year anniversary of gaining the right to parlia mentary vote, hence the dedication to the art of women. Next year’s festival, “Part Two,” will also be dedicated to women. The festival runs from May 13 to June 7. Full program and tickets at www.listahatid.is

Explore the wonders of Vestmannaeyjar The unique islands south of Iceland, famous for their rich birdlife and volcanic activi

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Vestmannaeyjar islands The only inhabited island is Heimaey is 8 km (5 mi) from the south coast of Iceland.

estmannaeyjar are 15 islands. They are famous for their birdlife, on islands is the world’s largest puffin colony. Bird watching tours are very popular, there are sightseeing tours by sea and air. Golfers favor the island´s unusual 18 hole golf course. The city centrum of the island´s has a number of

Golf The island´s 18-hole golf course is located in the crater of an extinct volcano and is one of the most beautiful and extraordinary golf course in the world.

restaurants and cafes, hotels, guesthouses, a campsite and a swimming pool. The only aquarium in Iceland, Sæheimar, is located in Vestmannaeyjar, Sagnheimar the local folk museum is also worth a visit. Whatever you do don´t miss the brand new volcanic museum ELDHEIMAR – Pompei of the North.

The main island Heimaey is at a distance of 8 km from the south coast of Iceland. Visitors can get there by taking a 20 minutes flight with Eagle Air from Reykjavík airport ore with the ferry Herjólfur which sails between Land eyjahöfn (about 2 hour drive from Reykjavík) The ferry trip takes about 35 minutes.

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Velkomin til Vestmannaeyja More info: (+354) 488-2700 | eldheimar@vestmannaeyjar.is | www.eldheimar.is Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Lookout

Inside a Volcano

Þ Saga Music Fest Come as you are – leave as a changed person

he Saga Music Festival is a twoday-long art and music event taking place on the farm Stokks eyrarsel in South Iceland, located close to the town of Selfoss. The event draws inspiration from the Icelandic Sagas

Come together The Saga music and art festival takes place on May 23-24 on a farm in South Iceland.

– Highlight

ríhnjúkagígur is a 4,000-year-old volcano just 30 minutes-drive southeast of Reykjavík. After an eruption, the magma chamber of a volcano usually fills up and is sealed with hard cold lava. However, Þríhnjúkagígur’s highly unusual empty magma chamber makes it possible to explore the heart of the volcano from the inside. A temporary lift carries visitors through the narrow bottleneck of the crater into the 120-meter-deep (394 ft.) dome.

and celebrates the spirit of connection to the environment and history. “The idea is for participants to come as they are, and to leave Saga Fest as a changed person. It’s all about transforma tion,” one of the festival’s organisers, Hawaiian Scott Shigeoka, explained. However, the festival is not simply a music event. It also includes midnight story telling around a bonfire, a community stage that will host impromptu concerts and theatre performances, and interesting workshops, among other things.

Into the deep Venture deep into Þríhnjúkagígur, an old magma chamber of a volcano. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

See: www.sagafest.is

www.insidethevolcano.com/

When: May 23-24.

Tours available from May 15 to September 15.

Akranes

Food and drinks for every mood. * Burgers * Steaks * Pizza * Salad * Sandwiches * Seafood...... and much more

Kirkjubraut 11 / Akraness / s: 431-4343 / www.gamlakaupfelagid.is 16

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Akranes GPS: 64°19,186N 22°02,654W

Skemmtilegt á Akranesi í sumar Fullt af afþreyingu í boði

Írskir dagar

Akranes Museum Centre

Markaðsstemning á laugardögum í sumar

At the Museum Centre you will find the Akranes Folk Museum, Iceland’s Sports Museum and the Mineral Kingdom. In the centre there are also various other exhibitions, a café and shop, a fun outdoor area, and a tourist information centre.

Address Garðar, 300 Akranes / Tel.: (+354) 431 1255 & (+354) 431 5566 Email: museum@museum.is

Akranesviti opinn í allt sumar

Allskonar afþreying Kafﬁhús og kruðerí Allt á Akranesi

Akrafjall, náttúruperla við Akranes

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Akranes

“The lost pearl of restaurants near Reykjavík”.

Galito restaurant offers a family friendly menu in a cozy environment. our mission is to use fresh ingredients and we offer everything from pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches and vegegatrian food to fine dining. www.galito.is Stillholt 16-18, Akranes Phone: +354 430 6767 Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Eating In ects An Icelandic startup that makes food products using edible insects is raisingfunds on Kickstarter and interest around the globe.

Words by Jón Kaldal

an we offer you a protein bar made with dates, seeds, chocolate, and cricket flour? What about hot dogs or lasagna where the main source of prote in comes from edible insects? This might strike you as a joke, but the Ice landic startup behind the Jungle Bar protein bar is dead serious. And after digging into the bar and also a little bit deeper into the concept behind the idea, you might agree that protein pro duction based on edible insects is just what the world needs.

The Fly Factory The company behind the Jungle Bar, Crow bar Protein, was founded last year. Its first mission, to develop a protein bar where the main source of protein is derived from sustainably farmed crickets, is explained on the project’s page on Kickstarter.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

But why eat insects? And how did this idea pop up in Iceland—which is one of the most insect-free countries in the world? First, for more than one third of the world’s population, insects are already a vital source of protein. Crowbar Protein’s main pitch is that the rest of the world just hasn’t caught on yet. Secondly, it all started last year with Búi Bjarmar Aðalsteinsson’s thesis project in product design at the Iceland Academy of the Arts: a conceptual work showing how insects can be harvested for food. Búi explains that the idea came to him after reading a 2013 report by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN. Called Edible Insects, it examined the ways insects could solve the threat of world famine.

The pioneers Búi Bjarmar Aðalsteinsson (left) and Stefán Thoroddsen want to normalize insect eating in the Western world. Photo/Jerel Lai

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

You will need 10 kg (22 lbs.) of feed to make 1 kg (2.2 lbs.) of protein from cows. Crickets only need 1.7 kg (3.7 lbs.) or six times less feed to make the same amount of protein.

Normalizing eating insects Búi quickly sensed that he was onto something big and got his friend Stefán Thoroddsen to join him in

founding Crowbar Protein. With the innovative focus on normalizing the eating of insects in the Western world, the first product they aim to put on the market is the cricket-rich Jungle Bar. The twoman team makes a very convincing case for why this is, in fact, quite a brilliant concept. Edible insects are indeed an excellent source of protein, good fats, minerals, and vitamins. Also, and perhaps of even greater importance, this kind of protein production is much more sustainable for the planet than almost all other types of protein-rich food production. It’s a known fact that producing protein can take up a lot of resources—land, water, and feed. Let’s look closer at Crowbar Protein’s assertion that sourcing protein from insects such as crickets is more sustainable than deriving it from other animals. You will need 10 kg (22 lbs.) of feed to make 1 kg (2.2 lbs.) of protein from cows. Crickets only need 1.7 kg (3.7 lbs.) or six times less feed to make the same amount of protein. When we look at the numbers for water needed for the protein production, the picture becomes even more interesting. For 1 kg of cow protein you need 8350 liters (2206 gallons) of water, for 1 kg of chicken protein you need 1250 liters (330 gallons), but for 1 kg of cricket protein you only need 8 liters (2.1 gallons). Meaning that you need a thousand times more water for the cow version. That’s a serious savings indeed.

A good gateway product The Insect-Powered Protein Bar The Jungle Bar is a protein bar made with dates, seeds, chocolate, and cricket flour, its main source of protein and minerals. The cricket flour in the Jungle Bar is made out of crickets that have been dried and ground into fine flour, ready to be mixed with other ingredients to make a delicious and nutritious protein bar.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

But Búi and Stefán have bigger plans than just the protein bar. They are convinced that the Western world will have to get used to the concept of edible insects. “It’s just a matter of time, it will happen sooner or later,” says Búi. “The population of the planet is growing, but the resources for farming—land, water, and feed—are not.”

Búi and Stefán see the Jungle Bar as the perfect gateway product. If the Jungle Bar takes off, it will be a much smaller step to get people to taste bread, lasagna, or any other everyday food, with insect protein as an ingredient. But how does an energy bar with sustainably farmed cricket flour taste? “Actually it’s similar to other protein bars, only better, because cricket protein has much better flavor than soy or whey protein,” says Búi. He explains that the flour on its own has a mild nut flavour. Similar to flour in general, it’s the other ingredients and spices that determine the taste. Around 2500 people in Iceland, Denmark, and the Netherlands have tasted the product. According to Búi, people understandably tend to be skeptical at first. “But when they see that the bar looks just like a normal energy bar they are usually ready to dig in and enjoy it.” The first batch of Jungle Bars will include cricket flour made in the USA, where there are already farms that produce sustainably farmed crickets. The bars are made by a factory in Canada from Crowbar Protein’s recipe. Búi says that the long-term plan is to build both an insect farm and a processing factory in Iceland, and he is optimistic that Iceland will soon gain a foothold in this field. “The conditions are excellent. We have cheap renewable energy, a lot of natural water, and a lot of space.” Crowbar Protein’s Kickstarter campaign ends May 10th. When Iceland Magazine went to print, the campaign had already reached its goal of $15,000 USD. If you are too late to make a pledge, you can make a direct order on crowbarprotein.com and get a juicy Jungle Bar delivered in August.

crowbarprotein.com

Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is

Búi called his design “The Fly Fact ory.” A kind of a micro-factory, it was a metal box on wheels with one glass window showing the larvae being cultivated and farmed inside and another showing an oven where larva pâté is being cooked. The visual message was quite striking. Actually, it was so striking that The Fly Factory grabbed the attention of media around the world and almost knocked Búi off his feet. “It was quite overwhelming. The phone kept ringing. The Fly Factory was covered by both the general media and design publications, and I got invited to all kinds of conferences outside of Iceland,” Búi explains.

A GEOTHERMAL ENERGY EXHIBITION

WORTH A VISIT

Stop by the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant and see how they harness the geothermal energy. Experienced guides are on-hand to provide informative presentations backed by multimedia shows about sustainable green energy as a global energy source and the geology of Iceland. Origin of the Geothermal energy – The production process – An illustrated guide to Hellisheiði – The earth core Exclusive collection of minerals and stones. An excellent hiking and outdoor destination - we provide information on hiking around the Hengill area. Enjoy our coffee shop and browse through a selection of educational material in the souvenires corner.

Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is

Open daily from 9:00 – 17:00. We are about 20 minutes drive from Reykjavík on Route 1 towards Hveragerði.

More information: www.orkusyn.is Tel + 354 412 5800 e-mail: orkusyn@orkusyn.is Gps 64°02”248’- 21°24”079´

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

GO North!

Iceland Magazine met with four people from four African countries who have made their home on this small island in the North Atlantic. Africa and Iceland appear to be worlds apart, especially when it comes to climate and culture, yet, deeper under the surface, people from Iceland and the African countries seem to share some similarities. Words by Sara McMahon Photos by Björn Árnason

Statistics In 2013, around 21,450 foreign-born people were living in Iceland, making up 6.7% of the Icelandic population. Poland, Lithuania, Denmark, and Germany are the top four countries of birth for foreign-born citizens in Iceland.

heba Wanjiku is Kenyan. She arrived in Iceland in 2001 with her ex husband and has lived here since. She lives in downtown Reykjavík with her daughter and works as an educational assistant. Sheba met with a journalist from Iceland Magazine in the café at the Kjarvalsstaðir museum. Despite her exotic beauty and the dignified manner in which she carries herself, what really made her stand out from the crowd was the fact that she was the only one still wearing a winter coat and a woollen hat in April—a time when most Iceland ers stubbornly begin to replace winter clothing with lighter attire. Was Iceland much like you had expected, or was there much that surprised you? “It was very different from what I had anticipat ed. It was so dramatic, but in a good way. For me, the surprise came later, like when I began to experience the extreme weather conditions. Adapting to the weather has always been the hardest part for me.” Are there many similarities between the two countries? What about differences? “The two countries are very different. Kenya is a much bigger country with many tribes and languages, and, obviously, a warmer climate. The similarities aren’t many, but I guess you could call both countries peaceful. Kenya has

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

managed to stay rather peaceful compared to its neighbours.” What do you like most about Iceland? “It’s peaceful. There is no war, no conflict, no religious conflict, and the government does not try to dictate anyone’s life.” What do you miss most from home? “I miss my family and the family life in Kenya. I miss the Indian Ocean, the vegetation, the heat, and the food. Ideally, I try to visit home once a year to enjoy all those things.” Iceland is supposedly one of the happiest countries in the world, but it is also said that Icelanders can be quite stand-offish and difficult to get to know. What is your opinion? “I tend not to waste my time on people who are stand-offish, why waste your time on a rock? But I believe the coolness only a shell.” If you had to describe Iceland in only one word, what would that be? “Vast.” Did you find it difficult to learn the Icelandic language? “It’s an extremely complicated language and you never stop learning. I now work for the city and they have a strict ‘no English’ policy, which has been very encouraging for me. And the people at work have been amazing. They are very patient

with you, even though it can take you up to five minutes to form a simple sentence,” she says smiling. Some people say that they feel they have different personalities depending on what language they are speaking. Is that something you’d agree with? “Well, I feel like an eight year-old when I speak Icelandic,” she says, giving a hearty laugh. “I believe people tend to express themselves differ ently depending on the language they are speaking. For instance, there are certain things that I find difficult to explain except in Swahili, but that’s simply because other languages lack the words.”

“The two countries are very different. Kenya is a much bigger country with many tribes and languages, and, obviously, a warmer climate. The similarities aren’t many, but I guess you could call both countries peaceful.” Any recommendations for tourists visiting Iceland? “Go diving between the tectonic plates in Silfra in Þingvellir National Park. It’s well worth it!”

New home When Sheba Wanjiku first arrived in Iceland, she found the country very dramatic, in a good way.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Windy quietness Kito Paulo says his home country, Mozambique, is blessed with sun and gorgeous beaches, but Iceland is blessed with the Northern Lights.

The dark winters freak me out

ito Paulo moved from his native Mozambique to Iceland in 2013. He now lives in the Reykjavík suburb of Kópavogur with his wife, Salome Friðgeirsdóttir. To him, there are few similarities and many differences between his home country and his adoptive country. He has gradually become used to the colder climate, but he admits he still gets ‘freaked out’ by the short, dark winter days. Why did you move to Iceland? “The main reason was to be with my wife, whom I had met and married in Mozambique. She was offered her dream job back in Iceland, and I followed two months later.” Are there many similarities between the two countries? What about differences? “The similarities are few. Iceland is cold, dark, and very feminist, while Mozambique is bright, sunny, and more masculine, somehow. I guess the similarities lie with the people and their attitude. I feel that here, like in Mozambique, everyone is welcome, regardless of their skin colour or beliefs.”

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

What do you like most about Iceland? “Icelanders keep asking me that!” Kito says, with a hearty laugh. “It’s very quiet here and I like that. Also, I think it’s relatively easy for foreigners to integrate into Icelandic society and find a job.” Iceland is supposedly one of the happiest countries in the world, but it is also said that Icelanders can be quite stand-offish and difficult to get to know. What is your opinion? “I’d say both are true. Icelanders are quite happy but seem to have different stages of happiness. For example, they become extremely happy during weekends, and overjoyed during summer. As soon as the sun begins to shine again after winter, you see how their attitude changes. That being said, it takes a long time to develop a deep friendship with an Icelander – they need to establish trust before they become your friend. And they also tend to complain a lot … mostly about the weather. But after living here for two years, I understand why. The dark winters freak me out. I’ve gotten used to the cold, but I don’t think I’ll ever get used to the darkness.” Did you find it difficult to learn the Icelandic language? “In Mozambique we have more than 40 languages and my mother tongue has a similar

phonetic to Icelandic, so the pronunciation is easy. I can easily pronounce Eyjafjallajökull, unlike many of my foreign friends. But I find the grammar rather difficult,” he explains. And he truly can pronounce the volcano’s impossible name perfectly. Any recommendations for tourists visiting Iceland? “Go snowmobiling on a glacier! It was one of the first things I did in Iceland and I absolutely loved it. Take time to enjoy the landscape and how different it is to that of most countries. I like to take the car and just drive out of the city to embrace the vastness of the country and what I call the ‘windy quietness’ of it. It’s so peaceful. “If you can, hunt down the Northern Lights. Just the other day I returned home from a night out and I went out to the balcony to have a cigarette and there was this amazing display of the Northern Lights in the sky above me. I stood there for thirty minutes, amazed by the beauty of it all. Mozambique is blessed with sun and gorgeous beaches, Iceland is blessed with the Northern Lights. Lastly, I recommend you try the Icelandic lamb – it’s the best I’ve ever tasted,” he says before enthusiastically adding: “Also go horseback riding! I adore the Icelandic horse and the way it moves.”

Cold Liya Yirga Behaga describes Iceland as cold but exciting.

Cold but exciting

t the age of eleven, Liya Yirga Behaga moved to Iceland from her native Ethiopia to live with her older sister, Tsige. She says the two countries are completely different, especially when it comes to culinary culture. The two sisters recently opened an Ethio pian restaurant called Teni, located at Skúlagata 17, by the oceanfront, in downtown Reykjavík. When did you move to Iceland and why? “I moved to Iceland in 2002, when I was 11 years old. My older sister lived here, and the reason I joined her was because here I had a better opportunity to pursue a higher education.” Was the country much like you had expected, or were there many surprises? “I was only a child when I moved, so I didn’t really have any expectations.” Are there many similarities in the two cultures? What about differences? “The two countries are completely different, especially when it comes to culture. In Ethiopia, people have great respect for the elderly; one does not disagree or argue with them, you are required to give up your seat for them, people address them more respectfully compared to others, and it’s absolutely crucial that you stand

up to welcome them whenever they visit. The culinary culture is also very different from that in Iceland. Families will often gather and share a meal for no special occasion, and it’s not uncommon for people to literally hand-feed a family member as a sign of their affection. During celebrations, such as weddings, neigh bours and friends will come and help prepare the meal. The men usually have the task of slaught ering the animal, while the women cook—all the while singing and dancing.” What do you like most about Iceland? “Besides being an exciting country, it’s also peaceful and there is much equality here, something not all countries enjoy to this extent.”

seem to be rather reluctant to let go of their emotions and lay it all bare. But as soon as they drop the mask and let you inside, most of them are wonderful people.” If you had to describe Iceland in one word, what would that be? “Cold.” Did you find it difficult to learn the Icelandic language? “No, all you need is some determination and patience.”

What do you miss most from Ethiopia? “Mostly my parents, who still live in Addis Ababa. But I also have a clear memory of all the fresh fruit and vegetables that you’d be able to eat all year around.”

Some people say that they feel they have different personalities depending on what language they are speaking – is that something you would agree on? “No, you’re just adopting another culture and customs, but I don’t believe your core is any different depending on which language you are speaking.”

Iceland is supposedly one of the happiest countries in the world, but it is also said that Icelanders are quite stand-offish and hard to get to know. What’s your opinion? “Icelanders are quite stiff, and have a hard time showing emotions such as joy and sorrow. They

Any local recommendations for tourists visiting Iceland? “I recommend a visit to Kálfshamarsvík bay on the north-western part of Skagaströnd, North Iceland. And of course a tasty meal at Teni,” she concludes with a laugh. Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Cool cat Terry de Vos was born in Uganda but now lives in Reykjavík where he co-owns and runs the men’s fashion store Skyrta.

The most unique land I have ever been to erry de Vos was born in Uganda and moved to England when he was 13 years old. He and his former fiancée and their children relocated to Iceland 8 years ago, as they felt the fast-paced urban London life-style was not suitable for raising a family. Terry had visited Iceland a number of times before his move and was impressed by the creativity of the people, the

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

music, the fashion, and the unique landscapes. Terry now co-owns the men’s fashion boutique Skyrta at Skólavörðustígur 21, where he also holds the position of art director. When did you move to Iceland and why? “I moved to Iceland from London about 8 years ago. I came here with my fiancée, the mother of my children. We decided to move to Iceland a year after our first child was born. The fast-paced urban life-style of London was not suitable for raising a family, and Iceland seemed like a better option.

I’d visited Iceland a couple of times before, during holidays, and I was always impressed and intrigued by the sheer creativity of Icelanders. Before my first visit, I saw Sigur Rós perform at Brixton Academy in London and thought it was the most beautiful music I had ever heard! From then on, Iceland and Sigur Rós’s music were one and the same to me. I often thought, if ever this land could speak, this is the sound it would make.”

Is the country much like you had expected, or were there many surprises? “No surprises as such. I mean Iceland is a small community, once you’ve been here a short time you kind of get the gist of things. For an African man, this was, and still is, by far the most unique land I have ever been to. The landscape is almost mystical! I felt right at home here.” Are there many similarities in the two cultures? “Yes, of course. I think there are quite a few similarities, this is still Europe after all. The Viking culture and history mixed with most European countries in the past. That’s got to leave a mark. But the main difference to me is the general Icelandic self-expression, especially in music, art, and style. There seems to be an unreserved playfulness in most artistic expression here. Also I think Icelandic people love to present themselves fashionably well. I’ve worked in men’s fashion for a while now, and in Iceland I’ve noticed how most Icelandic men seem to take pride in their general appearance. Don´t get me wrong, I’m not pushing vanity on the stereotypically tough Viking man. I think it’s refreshing for a man not to feel constrained by society. There also seems to be a strong need for individuality when it comes to clothing and

style. Since Iceland is like a small community, I guess no one wants to look the same.” What do you like most about Iceland? “Apart from the fresh air and clean water, there’s hardly any crime here. Plus I’ve good friends here now who keep me loving this place.” Iceland is supposedly one of the happiest countries in the world, but it is also said that Icelanders are quite stand-offish and hard to get to know. What’s your opinion? “Well, I guess like anywhere really, if you want to understand a people, it tends to be much easier if you learn the language first. My experiences of Iceland keep getting better because I’m becoming more and more conversant with the Icelandic language.” If you had to describe Iceland in one word, what would that be? “I’d say ‘mystical’.” Did you find it difficult to learn the Icelandic language? “Yes, it gets easier in time, of course, but I guess being an English speaker, I found it rather difficult to start with, as there is hardly any frame

I moved to Iceland from London about 8 years ago. I came here with my fiancée, the mother of my children. We decided to move to Iceland a year after our first child was born. . of reference in the two languages, so it took me awhile. I’m still grasping the basics really. But now I enjoy it more than before. And I love that Icelanders are very encouraging when you try to speak their language.” Some people say that they feel they have different personalities depending on what language they are speaking – is that something you would agree on? “I think that might be true. I think when we learn a language, we also learn the expressions, mannerisms, and intonation of that language.” Any local recommendations for tourists visiting Iceland? “I’d recommend people take a drive, in any direction, to the Icelandic countryside—it’s sure to take your breath away. I also recommend a visit to Skyrta for the ultimate Icelandic men’s fashion experience.”

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Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Awe-Inspiring Wasteland This is Sprengisandur, a primitive desert plateau between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers in the central highlands. It’s one of Iceland’s most remote and desolate areas, barely habitable and only accessible for a few months of the year. It is a truly awe-inspiring wasteland. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

This is Sprengisandur, a primitive desert plateau between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers in the central highlands. It’s one of Iceland’s most remote and desolate areas, barely habitable and only accessible for a few months of the year. It is a truly awe-inspiring wasteland. The company that operates Iceland’s electricity transmission grid wants to erect high-voltage power lines along the plateau but is now facing growing opposition to the plan. A number of organisations have created a petition to try and persuade the Icelandic government to save the central highlands from encroaching development. You can do your share and sign the petition at heartoficeland.org. It’s not only for the people of Iceland. We all inhabit this planet. -jk

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Gravel and sand dester The vast Sprengisandur plateau has been burnt by volcanoes for centuries and then stripped naked by the relentless ferocity of long winters. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Sprengisandur

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

SAVOUR THE BEST ICELAND HAS TO OFFER, BE IT FISH OR MEAT, OFF THE FRENCH PLANCHE OR FROM OUR CHARCOAL OVEN. THE CELL AR HAS FOOD TO FIT EVERY MOOD AND OCCASION, WHETHER YOU’RE UP FOR FINGER FOOD O R A F E A S T O F P L E N T Y.

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A Ð A L S T R Æ T I 2 • 1 0 1 R E Y K J AV Í K TEL: 517 7373 • WWW.KJALLARINN.IS Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink Fresh water, fresh fish, free-roaming sheep, and rye bread baked underground in geothermal areas: Gastronomes have plenty to look forward to when visiting Iceland. Iceland might not be best known for its culinary traditions—at least not yet— but there is an abundance of culinary delights for foodies to enjoy while visiting the country. Icelandic cod, for instance, is a popular delicacy in Spain, and now Icelandic skyr has seen a huge increase in popularity, especially in the Nordic countries. Here’s Iceland Magazine’s list of local treats to try.

1 The strangest take-away

2 34

Straight from the tap As everybody in Iceland will tell you, Icelandic water is the best water in the world. It’s true and it comes in unlimited supply—straight from every tap.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Well, maybe it’s not the most delicious lunch you can get, but “Svið” or scorched sheep-heads taste much better than they look. A heritage of old times, and also a nod to modern sustainable ideology, this dish originates from a time when no part of the animal was left to waste. Several grocery stores and a handful of kiosks include Svið on their daily take-away menu. If you are up for it, the cheek is considered the most tender and tasty part.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink

The Icelandic skyr Skyr is a traditional Icelandic dairy product that resembles yogurt, but it is, correctly speaking, a cheese. Skyr-making dates all the way back to the 9th century. The product is made from skim milk, which remains after the cream has been removed. The milk is then warmed, live cultures from previous batches of skyr are added, and after it has thickened, it is strained off from the whey. Internationally, skyr has seen a huge increase in popularity over the past years, especially in neighbouring Nordic countries. Recently the international dairy company Arla Foods began to sell Icelandic skyr in the UK. Like the saying goes: Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Right?

A fast food staple Former president Bill Clinton and model Chrissy Teigen are among the many confirmed fans of the Icelandic hot dog. “I fell in love with Iceland’s cuisine, especially the Icelandic hot dogs,” said the model after a visit in 2014. The ingredients in Icelandic hot dogs are a combination of several types of meat: free-range lamb, pork, and something else (we don’t want to know more, neither should you). They are served in a white bun with an impressive list of toppings, and you can buy them at gas stations and kiosks around the country.

Old school Slátur was a common and popular dish among Icelanders well into the 20th century. The word means slaughter, and in former times the term was used for everything and anything that was considered edible from the sheep, including scorched sheep’s head. The two most popular dishes made from sheep’s innards are blóðmör and lifrarpylsa. Blóðmör is similar to Irish black pudding and is made from sheep’s blood, flour, and suet. Lifrarpylsa, or liver sausage, resembles Scottish haggis and is made from sheep’s liver, flour, suet, and spices. The mixture is stuffed into little pouches that have been cut from the sheep’s stomach and sewn together. Of the two, the latter is more popular and is usually eaten warm with mashed potatoes and turnips.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Photo/Navaro~commonswiki

The ingredients in Icelandic hot dogs are a combination of several types of meat.

HAVE A GOOD ONE!

Steikhúsið / The Steakhouse — Tryggvagata 4-6 — 101 Reykjavík Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

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Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink

All meat and no potatoes

Icelandic sheep roam the open countryside freely during the summer grazing season. The breed arrived in Iceland with the Vikings and, over the centuries, the stout, sturdy animal has proved to be well adapted to the Icelandic climate. The animals feed on grass, berries, angelica, and seaweed, all of which add to the flavour of the meat. Icelanders vehemently maintain that the meat can taste different in different regions. But don’t take our word for it—try it yourself.

Hard to swallow For the uninitiated, it might be hard to swallow, but fermented skate is considered a great delicacy in Iceland. That is, however, by no means the popular opinion. Few things create a wider rift in the nation than the tradition involving this dish that smells like ammonia, which has been described as eating rotten fish. Happily, for those who can’t stomach the smell, only a handful of Icelanders eat it year round. However, on December 23rd, there is almost no escape for those who do not appreciate fermented skate. This day is called Þorláksmessa (Mass of Saint Þorlákur). It marks the beginning of Christmas in Iceland and is celebrated by eating the smelly fish. Contrary to what many think, love for fermented skate is not unique to Iceland. It’s also big in South Korea.

Indulge your sweet tooth

Foreign sweets were unavailable in Iceland for decades, due to import restrictions, so local candy factories had to satisfy the sugar cravings. Hence the wide-ranging supply of Icelandic candy. One recommendation from local junk food connoisseur Dr. Gunni is “Kókosbolla,” a bun consisting of a fluffy white paste inside a thin chocolate shell covered in coconut flour. For a volcanic party inside your mouth, Dr. Gunni advises drinking Coca Cola while eating the bun.

An infamous treat Another infamous Icelandic treat is “hákarl” or cured shark meat. Some consider it just a kind of a novelty dish to spook foreign travellers. However, we at Iceland Magazine are not in that camp. Hákarl has been compared to a stinky French cheese, which rings true if the cheese is properly ripened and matured. Similar to strong cheese, hákarl is never a meal but rather a snack to enjoy on its own.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Lager, lager Out of Iceland’s top ten most popular beers, six are by local brewers. Actually the top five are all Icelandic. The undisputed king is Víking Gylltur, a strong lager beer (5.6%) that has been described as having “fantastic drinkability.” Gylltur has more than double the market share of its brother Víking Lager, which comes in at number two. The top ten list is dominated by lager beers, but Iceland is in the middle of a beer revolution, with new, more adventurous beers from local breweries hitting the market almost every month. All are available in licensed restaurants or in the 48 state-run liquor stores (there is a monopoly on sales of alcohol in Iceland).

The Sea Baron

Im promotion

World Famous Lobster Bisque “You can sleep there, yes, but I’m not sure I would. Kjartan told me that the place was haunted. He said that he’d spent the night in the bunk-beds upstairs and someone had been trying to steal his blanket from him the whole night”, says Elísabet Jean Skúladóttir, the owner of Sægreifinn Restaurant.

Sægreifinn Restaurant (e. The Sea Baron) at the Reykjavík Harbor is famous for a number of things, but perhaps it’s most famous for its Lobster Bisque soup. Well, the lobster bisque and the life-size wax statue of the former owner, Kjartan Halldórsson, who passed away in Febru ary of this year. Kjartan, at the age of 63, opened a small shop where he sold fish straight from the harbor back in 2003. A year or so later, the shop turned into a restaurant, almost thanks to some tourists who asked him to cook the fish they were buying from him. Kjartan spent

Staying true to its roots “Loved the lobster soup, the catch of the day fish kabobs. The atmosphere was fanatically casual, unassuming, and homey”, writes a happy guest on the Sea Baron’s Facebook wall. And perhaps it’s the homey and unassuming atmosphere that draws people to the restaurant, perfectly located in Reykjavik’s Harbor. The ‘regulars’ come by every morning for a cup of coffee. These are fishermen and old friends of Kjartan’s who come by and reminisce about the good old times while getting ready to face the day ahead.

lunch. “I’m not sure I’d want to sleep there, but we do have pillows and blank ets that we clean regularly if our custom ers want to take advantage of the beds”, Elísabet tells Iceland Magazine. The upstairs seats thirty people and makes one feel like you’ve entered a cottage in the Icelandic countryside. Once a year a happy customer books the whole top floor for his extended family, and I’m not surprised. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel welcome and begs of you to come back.

Like a family

The past and the future Late Kjartan with his wax replica at Sægreifinn and the restaurant’s present owner, Elísabet Jean, ‘who worked alongside the founder for years’.

twenty-years of his life at sea and whilst he wasn’t a fisherman per say, he right fully earned his title as ‘Sea Baron’ as a chef for the Icelandic Coast Guard. The menu has stayed the same throughout the years, with only little tweaks here and there. The fish that’s available depends on what’s been caught that day and all the fish aside from the minke whale is served on skewers. Kjartan’s original lobster bisque recipe is said to be ‘the world’s greatest lobster soup’ – a secret recipe that even the NSA hasn’t cracked yet.

While tourism has driven many of Reykjavik’s restaurants to become more upscale, the Sea Baron has stayed true to its roots. First impression makes you feel like you’ve entered someone’s home. It’s small and cozy and the walls are covered with memorabilia that connects the rest aurant to the ocean. The photographs of the former owner, friends and family members only add to a very relaxed, yet professional, atmosphere. It’s a place you’d imagine many consider their second home. With bunk beds available upstairs; you can even catch a siesta after

After falling down the stairs in the rest aurant, Sea Baron Kjartan aged beyond his years. Elísabet Jean had been work ing for Kjartan since 2003 and he kindly requested that she’d buy the restaurant from him. As an added bonus to the buy, Kjartan himself was included in the deal. The staff tells me that he was a fun and entertaining character to have around and although he spoke no English and was unable to work in the kitchen, Kjartan was always around greeting cust omers and keeping up the joyful homey spirit of the place. After he was put on bed-rest, the restaurant staff went to visit him regularly and brought him to the restaurant for short visits. “We really were like a family”, a staff member tells me. Kjartan may have left this world for the next, but his spirit lives on at the Sea Baron restaurant.

Fresh The restaurant is located at Reykjavík’s old harbor.

www.saegreifinn.is Geirsgata 8 - 101 Reykjaví

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink

Small size, big taste Langoustine, called humar (lobster) in Icelandic, is caught in the warmer waters along the south, southeast, and southwest coasts of Iceland. Smaller than other lobster species, the Icelandic langoustine is known for its succulent, tasty meat. Much of the langoustine harvest is exported to Spain, the Netherlands, Canada, and the U.S. Icelanders tend to cook langoustine for special occasions such as Christmas, New Year’s Eve, or just to celebrate sunny summer days.

A fish story

Cod is the most important marine resource in Icelandic waters. The fish is processed in different ways. Much of it is salted and sold to countries such as Spain and the UK, which are the largest export markets for Icelandic cod. Haddock is another popular fish and the one most commonly eaten by Icelanders, probably because cod was better suited for salting, and therefore export. Traditionally, Icelanders boil or fry the fish and serve it with melted butter and boiled potatoes. Absolutely delish!

The bread Rúgbrauð is baked underground in geothermal areas.

13 Break bread

Flatbrauð and rúgbrauð are two types of traditional, Icelandic bread. Flatbrauð, also called flatkaka, or ‘flat bread,’ is a soft, thin, pan-fried rye bread. It is generally eaten with butter and thin slices of hangikjöt (smoked lamb). Rúgbrauð, also known as ‘þrumari’, is another rye bread traditional to Iceland. It’s cooked underground in geothermal areas and is dark, very dense, and rather sweet. The bread is usually eaten with pâté or a thick layer of salted butter. Stale rúgbrauð is often used to make bread soup, brauðsúpa.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

And quench your thirst Last century, there were up to six companies that competed in the Icelandic soda market. Now only two or three Icelandic brands remain: the orange soda “Appelsín” and the fruit punch called “Mix.” Probably the most iconic Icelandic soft drink is “Malt,” a sweet malt beverage. It’s not carbonated, but it’s consumed by Icelanders like a soda. An old tradition during Christmas and Easter is to mix Malt and Appelsín (50/50).

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink

Restaurants that honour local ingredients

Dill Restaurant Dill specialises in New Nordic cuisine and guests can choose between a three, five, or a seven course meal. The set menu changes regularly throughout the year and in accordance with the seasons. The dishes are quite experimental, a sort of coming together of the Nordic cuisine of the Danish Michelin restaurant Noma and the whimsical genius of Heston Blumenthal. Owner and head chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason once told Iceland Magazine that Dill has evolved into what he likes to call ‘New Icelandic cuisine.’ “Our focus will always be on Icelandic produce and ingredients,” he said.

New Icelandic Dill’s focus is, and always will be, on Icelandic produce and ingredients, says owner and head chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason. Photo/Valli

We take the good old traditional recipes and the best icelandic ingredients to create fun and tasty food. Let tradition surprise you!

Tuesday- Saturday: 11.30 - 23.30 - Sunday - Monday: 11.30 - 17.30 / Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík - tel: +354 571 8877 - info@ maturogdrykkur.is

- www.maturogdrykkur.is

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Best of Icelandic Food & Drink

Skjöldólfsstaðir in East Iceland At Skjöldólfsstaðir, in East Iceland, you will find not only a guesthouse, swimming pool, and a camping site, but also a restaurant that serves dishes made from locally sourced products, such as trout, lamb, and reindeer meat. Try their reindeer meatballs or the mouth-watering reindeer burger—we guarantee you’re in for a treat.

Straight from the farm! Bjarteyjarsandur farm Something different One of Matur og drykkur’s specialities is cooked head of cod. A delicious and unique treat. Photo/Björn Árnason

Matur & Drykkur Located on Grandagarður 2 by the old harbour area in Reykjavík’s centre, Matur & drykkur opened for business in January and quickly became a favourite among local and international gourmets. The menu consists of traditional, Icelandic dishes such as hashed fish, head of cod, and the humble “pylsa” (hot dog) with all the trimmings, but served in new and innovative ways.

Slippurinn in the Westman Islands Slippurinn, on Heimaey island, the largest in the Westman Islands archipelago, embraces the ‘New Nordic’ food ideology and focuses on locally sourced products such as freshly caught fish, field sorrel, homegrown vegetables, and wild herbs.

Pakkhúsið in Höfn Restaurant Pakkhúsið, in Höfn, southeast Iceland, is located in an old building overlooking the town’s harbour. The restaurant’s aim is to create and serve delicious dishes from local produce, such as the locally caught langoustine, renowned for its rich taste. “My favourite product is freshly caught fish. I love cooking different types of fish and experimenting with how they respond to different cooking methods,” chef and owner Halldór Halldórsson explained.

Galdrasetrið in Hólmavík In the quaint fishing village of Hólmavík stands the Museum of Icelandic Witchcraft and Sorcery. The small restaurant in the front of the museum opened in 2009 and is renowned for its specialty: mussels grown in Steingrímsfjörður fjord. Curator Sigurður Atlason does much of the cooking himself and says one simply can’t go wrong when cooking with delicious products such as the Steingrímsfjörður mussels.

Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður This charming restaurant is located next to the heritage museum in Ísafjörður, and is well-known for its amazing seafood dishes. The catch of the day comes fresh off the boats that dock in the harbour next to the restaurant.

Sægreifinn in Reykjavík Sægreifinn, or the Sea Baron, is a small, humble restaurant, located in an old baiting hut on the old Reykjavík harbour. The restaurant was founded by Kjartan Halldórsson, a retired fisherman and former chef for the Icelandic Coast Guard, who quickly became famous for his delicious lobster soup. While the lobster soup might be the restaurant’s specialty, the more traditional dish of fermented skate, a foul-smelling Icelandic delicacy, is also worth a try—if not for the taste of it, then at least because it’ll make for a good story.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

In the scenic Hvalfjörður fjord, a 45-minute drive north of Reykjavík, the family on the farm Bjarteyjarsandur runs a small shop where they sell their homemade products directly to consumers. Their products include lamb meat, organic pork, smoked leg of lamb, jam, and bjúga, a traditional smoked sausage. Here you can stock up on provisions to bring along on your trip if you are travelling north.

Háls farm in Kjós Matarbúrið is a small farm store run by the family on Háls, a farm located in Kjós in Hvalfjörður. The family sells locally grown, premium packaged beef as well as tasty jams, chutneys, and jellies to go with it. The store is open most days.

Erpsstaðir in West Iceland On the dairy farm Erpsstaðir in Búðardalur in West Iceland, one can purchase delicious, homemade dairy products such as ice cream, cheese, and skyr, the traditional, Icelandic dairy product similar to strained yoghurt, as well as tasty treats made from skyr.

Bulsur from Karlsstaðir Berglind and Svavar manufacture ‘bulsur,’ vegan sausages made from Icelandic barley, kidney beans, and other savoury ingredients, on their farm Karlsstaðir in Berufjörður fjord, East Iceland. The couple also recently began producing healthy snacks made from local turnips.

Klaus the sausage maker German-born Klaus Kretzer makes flavoursome, award-winning sausages from scratch. His products, packaged under the label Skaftafell Delicatessen, are made from meat of mutton produced by his neighbours in Öræfi district, Southeast Iceland. “In my opinion it is important that I personally know the farmers who produce the meat. They are very ambitious about what they are doing, and I can be sure that they treat their livestock well,” Klaus once told Iceland Magazine. The products can be bought all year round in Skaftafell and Freysnes, east of Skaftafell. Some of the products are used in restaurants in Höfn in Hornafjörður. As of this summer, the products will be available at the Farmers Market in the town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur.

Learn more about Icelandic culture & cuisine

Salt eldhús offers cooking classes for foreign travellers who are interested in learning more about Icelandic culture and cuisine. The introductory class in Icelandic cuisine is called Local & Focal and takes place every weekday at 11am. Participants learn to prepare a three-course menu, consisting of fish, Icelandic lamb, and a skyr dessert.

Eimverk Distillery

Eimverk Distillery is a family run company, founded in 2009 and is focused on making premium Icelandic spirits. Eimverks products are hand crafted small batch, and made from 100% organic Icelandic barley, making Eimverk the only true grain to glass producer of icelandic spirits. Today Eimverk produces VOR, Icelandic Gin, VOR Barrel Aged Reserve Gin, Víti Akvavit and FLÓKI Whisky.

Appearance: Crystal clear but with some very tiny particles in suspension

Appearance: Clear, bright golden amber. Aroma: Toasty and fresh barley with buttery oak, caramel shortcake, nutmeg and pastry.

Aroma: Bready barley, leather and piney juniper lead a pungent nose with lavender, cut grass and herbal notes.

Taste: Dry toasty oak, leather and brown bready maltiness with caramel shortcake, honwy, and vanilla.

Taste: Full-bodied with aggressive peppery spirit but water reveals pleasing sweet doughy bread notes with generous juniper well integrated herbal complexity.

Aftertaste: Buttery oak with black pepper and cinnamon spice. Overall: Youthful but not too exuberant with attractive buttery oak.

Aftertaste:Bread continues through the finish. Overall: Characterful and rustic in style.

Appearance: Clear, pale golden. Aroma: Eucalyptus and pine, balsawood, new leather, pastry and lavender. Taste: Bready, resinous pine, balsawood, eucalyptus, cut grass, drying oak and cracked black pepper spice. The addition of water dries, amplifying bitter woody notes. Aftertaste: Pine, eucalyptus, chamois leather and cracked black pepper. Overall: Dry wood tannins and eucalyptus with herbal notes and attractive pastry and brown bread.

FLÓKI Icelandic whisky

VOR Icelandic Gin

VOR, Barrel Aged Reserve Gin

FLÓKI is Iceland’s very first whisky, hand crafted by Eimverk Distillery from 100% organic Icelandic barley. The Icelandic barley is grown at the arctic circle, as such we need hardy grain variants that tolerate the short cold summers, this results in lower starch content and we need to use 50% barley per bottle, giving on the other hand a strong spicy under tone from the barley. We further emphasize this in our production by not removing the grain, we ferment with grain in and distill from it in our first distillation. Flóki has four basic ranges, first we have our standard range from malted Icelandic Barley and then our Sheep dung smoked reserve. Using peat for smoking/drying has an environ mental impact and peat as such is in short supply. However Iceland has a long tradition for smoking food with sheep dung and plenty of sheep dung to spare. Each of those ranges then has two main variants, our young malt, stored on a new american oak for 1 year plus and our single malt stored on used barrels for 3 years plus (used by our young malt). Today Flóki Young malt is available on bottles and will be followed by Flóki sheep dung smoked young malt later this year and Flóki Single Malt Whisky in 2016.

VOR is a traditional pot distilled Icelandic gin. The gin is made by Eimverk Distillery from Icelandic barley, the same basic ingredient as Flóki whisky. In the third distillation we add select Icelandic botanicals to the spirit, our botanicals are: Icelandic Juniper berries, rhubarb, crowberries, Iceland moss and other selected herbs and botanicals, all handpicked in Iceland. VOR Gin received DOUBLE GOLD award 2014 at the distinguished San Franscisco’s International Spirit Competition and 4 stars in Diffords Guide. VOR has also received numerous other great reviews, rewards and recognitions

VOR, Barrel Aged Reserve Gin is our VOR Icelandic Gin casketed for six weeks, This is a special limited edition, where the gin has done some hard time in the barrel, and has been reformed with notes of vanilla and oak, which adds an extra richness and spice to the flavor.

Hand crafted Eimverk´s products are made from 100% organic Icelandic barley, making Eimverk the only true grain to glass producer of icelandic spirits.

Eimverk Distillery: Reykjavík, Iceland / Phone: +354 698 9691 / www. floki@eimverk.com

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Investigating the Manuscripts Did you know that the most famous Sagas of Icelanders: ‘The Saga of Burnt Njáll’ (Brennu-Njáls Saga), is preserved in 60 manuscripts? Jerel Lai spoke to Svanhildur Óskarsdóttir who is leading a fascinating research into the origin of the saga, that is the best-known text written in Icelandic.

anuscripts are an import ant monument to any society’s literary history, and they are especially important in Iceland. The Icelandic sagas were written starting in the 13th century, even though the events described took place 200 to 300 years prior. Today, the medieval Ice landic manuscripts containing the sagas are preserved and housed in the Árni Magnússon Institute in Reykjavík. The manuscripts of Brennu-Njáls saga, the most well-known and most read of all the sagas, are currently being researched in a project entitled, “The Vari ance of Njáls Saga.”Svanhildur Óskarsdóttir is a researcher at the Árni Magnússon Institute and the principal investigator in the project.

How would you describe the project? The aim of the project is to explain and cele brate the variants of Njáls saga. An ordinary person, who walks into a bookshop and picks Njáls saga off the shelf, assumes that it is just the text of Njáls saga, but the Njáls saga is in fact preserved in 60 manuscripts; 30 of these are medieval parchment manuscripts. In the project we accept that there are many manu scripts and we want to explore their differences: in their appearance, in the text, and in the perception of the saga, and, from a linguistic point of view: what these manu scripts tell us about language change and linguistic preferences. How did the idea for the project come about? An inspiration was the fact that we do not have an adequate edition of Njáls saga. There is a very good 19th-century edition by Konráð Gíslason, which gives some idea of

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Svanhildur Óskarsdóttir “Already around 1300 there were different versions of the text available.” Photo/Jerel Lai

the different texts of the manuscript. Now with modern techniques, we have an opportunity to show readers the differences that can not be seen in a printed edition. In a printed edition, the page always restrains you; so one aim of the project is to start an archive, which could be the basis of a new electronic edition accessible to scholars and to readers throughout the world. When did the project start? We applied for a grant with Rannís, the Icelandic research center, and we were very lucky to get the grant, as this was the first time

we tried. The grant was for three years, from 2011 to 2013, so we are really wrapping up the project. What is involved in the project? A lot of it is transcription work, and we have been lucky that we’ve been able to engage students in the work. The transcriptions are encoded into XML. There is a PhD student in Madison, Wisconsin, whose work is linked with our project. She’s been measuring the size of the manuscripts, the text block, the density of the text per page, looking at marginal notations,

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

medieval Icelandic sagas

and other aspects, in order to postulate for whom the manuscripts were meant, and so forth.And then, we’ve been looking at the differences in the texts and debating the significance of these differences. Are there any findings that you were expecting or curious about? We wanted to revisit the question of the textual relationships of the manuscripts, which has been addressed by scholars before us in the 19th and the 20th centuries. These people had to work without computers, and computers are a big help, as they are quicker at aligning differences. Previous scholars have maintained that there are three main textual branches of Njáls saga. But even so, Einar

out. We hope this will bring attention to a fourth branch, in addition to the three traditional branches of Njáls saga manuscripts. Are there more manuscripts that have been found than they had back then? Yes, all the parchment manuscripts were already at their disposal, but there are also paper manuscripts that they didn’t work with. They didn’t concern themselves much with paper manuscripts, so the paper descendants of the Gullskína branch were cast aside. But with them, we have a new set of data. We found, for instance, an 18th-century manuscript that is owned by the Catholic church, Landakotskirkja, in Reykjavik. There are also a couple of manuscripts that were in

Njál’s sag Images from the Njál’s saga tapestry. Sewing of this fantastic work began in 2011 and is still in progress. Started and still guided by Gunnhildur Edda Kristjánsdóttir and Christina M. Bengtsson, the tapestry will be around 90 m (295 ft.) long when finished. They use the Bayeux stitch, a special type of stitch that was used in the Viking age. It is exhibited at The Saga Centre in the town of Hvolsvöllur in South Iceland. The Centre offers guided tours through an exhibition about Njál´s saga and the Viking age.

Ólafur Sveinsson [one of the foremost saga scholars of the 20th century] was unsure about some of the manuscripts, so we hope to be able to refine his findings and the findings of the 19th-century scholars before him. One branch of manuscripts that has not been looked into much is the Gullskína branch of manuscripts. Gullskína was a medieval parchment codex of Njáls saga that is now lost, but was extant in the 17th century. Copies were made of it, and the text was very popular in 17th and 18th-century Iceland. The majority of existing paper manuscripts of Njáls saga are descendants of that lost codex. Since 19th and 20th-century scholars were not interested in “young” manuscripts, they left it

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

“We also have Gráskína, which is also from around 1300, roughly the same time as Reykjabók, but it’s a lesser-known text.”

private ownership that have since come to light. A young manuscript may theoretically preserve a very old text of a lost medieval exemplar, as with Gullskína, which is lost but on which later manuscripts were based.

You mentioned at least 60 manuscripts of Njáls saga. Are there many that haven´t been looked at but a few that scholars mainly focused on when they were researching? Scholars worked with two main editions. Konráð’s edition gives you as full a text as possible with variants, but you don’t see all the text in manuscripts. When you come to the 20th century, Einar Ólafur Sveinsson’s Íslenzk fornrit (old Icelandic texts) is the standard edition for most scholars throughout the world. Einar Ólafur based his edition mainly on Möðruvallabók, which is a 14thcentury manuscript. Since there are lacunae in Möðruvallabók, he incorporated readings from other manuscripts. There are two manuscripts of Njáls saga that are better known than others, that’s Reykjabók, which is among the oldest, from around 1300, and Möðruvallabók, which is slightly younger. We also have Gráskína, which is also from around 1300, roughly the same time as Reykjabók, but it’s a lesserknown text. There is slightly different wording in them, the style is slightly different, and you can even get a slightly different feel for the characters from the way they express themselves. The plot is always the same, but there are subtle differences, which are very interesting and people deserve to have access to it. I would like to be able to publish it for the general public in Iceland. Then you could walk into a bookstore in Reykjavík and ask, “Oh, I’d like to buy Njáls saga” and you would hear, “Yes, would you like the Möðruvallabók text, the Gráskína text, or the Reykjabók text?” We should do it, because it’s our monument, maybe the best-known text written in Icelandic. But we should not obscure the fact that already around 1300 there were different versions of the text available. And why shouldn’t they be available in the 21st century? Why do you think Njáls saga has become so popular? I think it’s partly the breadth of it. The basic story concerns feuds and revenge, but it also incorporates the advent of Christianity. Also, it’s not confined to Iceland, and I think it appeals to non-Icelanders partly because it connects to the geography and history of other countries. Also the characters are wonderfully vivid, and there are many very memorable one-liners, and a lot of elegantly and succinctly phrased sentences. There’s quite a lot there to admire and keep people interested.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com

Iceland Mag explains

Popular pastime Fishing in Iceland is a wonderful experience. The season runs from April to October. Photo/GVA

Sought after solitude Question: I will be travelling to Iceland next May and would like to do some fly fishing. Where can I get a permit for fly fishing in Iceland? Answer: The solitude, the soothing sounds of the rushing river, and the skills required are among the things that have made fly fishing a popular pastime in Iceland. If you want to try it, you can get information and permits by visiting websites such as Veida.is, Agn.is, and Svfr.is. The salmon season in Iceland usually begins in June and extends into midSeptember. The prime time for salmon fishing generally ranges from midJuly and until mid-August, which is also the most expensive time to fish. Fresh-water fishing (trout and sea-trout) begins in April and ends in midSeptember, the prime season for trout being late July until late October. As mentioned before, permit prices can vary with the time of year (prime time being the most expensive, while the beginning and end of the season are generally cheaper). Another variable is whether the permit comes with catering. Rivers that offer self-catering lodges are less expensive. One very important thing to keep in mind when planning a fishing trip to Iceland: it’s mandatory to have all your equipment disinfected by authori ties, before entering the country, and you have to have the papers to prove it.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Q: Is there tipping in Iceland? The salmon season in Ice land usually begins in June and extends into midSeptember.

A: Tipping is not customary in Iceland. In restaurants, prices on the menu are all-inclusi ve, and the same goes for taxis and other services. With some tourists leaving tips, some members of the travel industry in Iceland now expect to get tipped. However, no Icelander would tip, and no one would expect them to. So, to be absolutely clear, you don’t need to tip while travelling in Iceland. But please keep in mind that we are not discouraging tipping. If you want to tip to reward for exceptional service, go ahead, just keep in mind that it’s never an obligation.

optional Tipping is optional in Iceland.

Hafnarbraut 42 • Höfn • Sími: +354 478 2600 • www.kaffihorn.is • kaffihornid@eldhorn.is

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Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

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Iceland Magazine explains ...as though literature, theater, deceit, infidelity, hypocrisy, infelicity,parasitism and the simulation of real life were not part of real life!* Jacques Derrida, Limited Inc.

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On the road Most mountain roads are closed for traffic until early July. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Q: I’m planning to drive the Sprengi sandur and Fjallabak routes in early July, with stops in Landmannalaug ar and Þórsmörk. Would a Suzuki Jimny be okay for those routes at that time of year, or would I need a bigger car? A: Most mountain roads are closed for summer traffic until early July because of bad conditions. The narrow gravel roads turn into muddy quagmires when thawing out after a hard winter. The terrain is difficult to travel across and only suitable for larger vehicles equipped with four-wheel drive. You can’t avoid some river crossings on these routes (most notably via Fjallabak), and on warm summer days, the volume of water in the rivers can increase substantially. For these crossings, a proper 4x4 ‘super-jeep’ is necessary. Sadly, the Jimny does not qualify as a ‘super-jeep.’ We would recommend larger vehicles such as a Land Rover or a Toyota Land Cruiser. Please note that, when travelling to the central highlands, it is very important to stay well-informed—check weather and road conditions daily! Also, don’t hesitate to stop fellow motorists for further information on road or river conditions. Lastly, when in doubt about whether to cross a river or not, a good rule of thumb is: Do not drive into rivers that you would not attempt to wade into.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

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April 11. – June 21. 2015 Hreinn Friðfinnsson Ragnheiður Gestsdóttir & Markús Þór Andrésson Cecilia Nygren Lucia Simek Arild Tveito Sýningarstjóri: Gavin Morrison The exhibition is open daily and admission is free

Skaftfell – center for visual art. www.skaftfell.is Austurvegur 42, 710 Seyðisfjörður.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com

Q: What would be a good distinctly Icelandic tattoo? A: As we at Iceland Magazine are not experts in this field we present answers from two who are:

Búri at The Icelandic Tattoo Corporation “If a foreign visitor wanted something distinctly Icelandic, the images we would steer them towards would be the runes and magic signs. Tattooing Icelandic gods and Vikings can turn out to be a bit too cliché. If we do those types of tattoos, we stay away from the braided beards and horns on the head! They were real people too! If you are set on getting inked, do your research on the artist, the shop, and what kind of motif would suit you and your taste. Take time to look at different art and decide what colours would be your preference. A tattoo is for life!” www.icelandtattoo.com, address: Hverfisgata 39, 101 Reykjavík

Ólafía at Reykjavík Ink “If someone walks into Reykjavík Ink, and is not from Iceland—which happens here especially in the summer—I would strongly suggest something traditionally Icelandic, if people have not completely made up their minds what they want. It would probably be a design that I would custom draw for them—as opposed to something on shop or book flash. The theme would almost definitely be something like the Icelandic runes or Saga images, or even traditional Iceland words or letters.” www.reykjavikink.is Address: Frakkastígur 7, 101 Reykjavík

Something traditional Ólafía at Reykjavík Ink recommends something traditionally Icelandic for those who wish to get inked in Iceland. Photo/Jerel Lai

What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.

ask@icelandmag.com

IBCTRAVEL

Guðmundur Valdimarsson Owner/driver guide Urðarvegur 27 / 400 Ísafjörður Tel: +354 861 2845 Email: info@ibctravel.is

www.ibctravel.is Recommended on Tripadvisor!

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

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The Atlantic Puffin

Spotting Puffins While puffin colonies are located all around Iceland, there are a few places where your chances of catching the bird are more likely than others, as shown on the map. Many puffin visits require you to get over your seasickness and buckle up for an hour or so on a boat, but quite a few good ones can be reached by car.

Ísafjarðardjúp The island Vigur is the largest of three islands in the fjord, and a good place to see puffins.

Borgarfjörður Eystri Large puffin colonies on the island of Hafnarhólmi, and the chance to get up-close-and-personal with the birds. There’s a special hideout viewing location near the harbour of the town which allows visitors to view a wide variety of unique bird species native to the area.

Breiðafjörður A shallow bay in the West of Iceland. A popular puffin spot is Borgarhólmi which you can reach by car and on foot.

Kollafjörður in Faxaflói bay Two islands, Akurey and Lunday are homes to hundreds of puffins. Only a short boat-ride from the city center.

South Coast Westman Islands An island and archipelago of approximately 5,000 people. Largest puffin colony in Iceland. You can either fly to the Island or take a ferry. Once you’re there, you are likely to need to get on a boat to get close to the birds, but if observing from far is your thing, the numbers of puffin will work in your favour.

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

Ingólfshöfði South of Öræfajökull glacier, Reynisfjall near Vík í Mýrdal, and Dyrhólaey (also en route to Vík) are puffin colonies on the South Coast.

Fáskrúðsfjörður The island of Skrúður is home to the biggest cave on the East Coast of Iceland, as well as a popular puffin colony. It is very possible to climb the island... unless you’re afraid of heights.

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All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

Iceland Magazine / issue #03 2015

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