Recycled fashion Heathens against hate Reykjavík on a budge …or not
Issue 07
2015
T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
Hornstrandir:
Yo ur
P 18 P 28 P 32
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Iceland´s most isolated region p.36
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10 interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
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Contents from the editor
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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
Killing the Wild in the Wilderness
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s has been said before in this column, the growing number of travellers in Iceland is a huge blessing for the local nature preservation movement. More and more locals are finally coming to understand that untouched wilderness is a resource of great value on a planet that humans generally treat with a terrible lack of respect. It’s the pristine, rugged landscape that draws visitors to this country. By enjoying it in a respectful way, visitors, in spite of their numbers, might help us keep our hinterland intact. But we’re in the middle of an ongoing fight. The company that operates Iceland’s electricity transmission system now wants to install overhead high-voltage power lines right across the central highlands. The lines would be suzspended between huge steel towers observable from far away. The visual impact would be devastating, totally ruining the experience of being in an unspoiled environment in a vast part of the central highlands. It’s borderline insane that this idea is being entertained at all. Overhead power lines may be the lowest-cost method of transporting large amounts of electricity, but at the same time, the suspension towers are among the ugliest structures imaginable. Putting them up in an area previously untouched by the human hand is a certain way to kill the wild in our wilderness. There is growing support in Iceland for preserving the central highlands in one big national park and for smothering plans for power lines and further dams. We at Iceland Magazine wholeheartedly back this idea. Whatever your nationality, you can too, dear reader. Please visit heartoficeland.org and sign the petition to keep Iceland’s central highlands unharmed.
36 Contents 6-15 Lookout 6 One of the most beautiful cafés in Reykjavík 8 Reykjavík food tour 10 Culture Café 12 The serene beauty of Eldhraun lava field 14-16 The northern lights season, harvest festival at Flúðir village, the autumn sheep round-ups, and more highlights ahead.
16 Locals Recommend 5 reasons to visit Reykjavík, according to locals.
18 Recycled & Upcycled Reykjavík fashion brand Aftur embraces the slow-fashion ideology and creates stunning designs from upcycled textiles.
20 10 interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík It’s the only Western European capital without a Starbucks or a McDonald’s and few other things that make the capital surprisingly awesome and interesting.
32 Three versions
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Jóna María Hafsteinsdóttir jmh@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Magnús Sveinn Helgason, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir,, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: Hiking on Sólheimajökull glacier in South Iceland (see p. 34). Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
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Reykjavík, Iceland’s capital, has much to offer, whether you are a king, a student on a budget or somewhere in-between.
36 Where the Arctic Fox Reigns Supreme Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is Iceland’s most isolated region, outside of the central highlands. Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
42 Iceland Magazine Explains Does it get very cold in Iceland? What’s the recipes for Icelandic delicacies “kleina” and “jólakaka”.
46 New Perspective Icelandic Brennivín in a cocktail? Yes, that can be done.
WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU PRE-BOOKING REQUIRED
Blue Lagoon has limited availability Book online at bluelagoon.com
Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
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Lookout Hannesarholt
Rich in history And serving excellent food. You should stop by for a breakfast of Icelandic skyr with homemade muesli or lunch for traditional Icelandic fish stew. Photos/Jón Kaldal
In a Quiet Place Even if Hannesarholt is smack downtown it is far enough from the beaten path to remain mostly undiscovered. Which is a real shame, because Hannesarholt is one of the most beautiful cafés/restaurants in Reykjavík.
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annesarholt is located in one of the most beautiful houses in the Þingholtin neighbour hood (the old downtown area, bordered by Skólavörðustígur street, lake Tjörnin and Hallgrímskirkja church). The house is one of the oldest stone buildings in Reykjavík, built in 1915 following the great Reykjavík fire of 1915. The house was built by Hannes Hafstein, who was a celebrated poet, Member of Parliament and one of the heroes of the Icelandic struggle for inde pendence. Hannes also became the first prime minister of Iceland, in 1904. His statue stands in
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front of the Prime Minister’s office by Lækjargata street. Hannesarholt is not only rich in history, it serves a great breakfast and lunch menus and
visit Hannesarholt, rather than stumble into one of the crowded cafés along the main shopping streets.
The house is one of the oldest stone buildings in Reykjavík, built in 1915 following the great Reykjavík fire of 1915. hosts concerts and musical performances at night. The food is both simple and honest, made with fresh ingredients. You should stop by for a breakfast of Icelandic skyr with homemade muesli or lunch for traditional Icelandic fish stew. If you are walking around downtown looking for a café you should definitely take the few extra steps to
Opening hours: Weekdays 8:00-17:00 (breakfast is served 8:00-11:00, Lunch 11:00-14:30) Weekends 11:00-17:00
See more “Hidden Cafés” on icelandmag.com
Iceland’s largest shopping center Only a 10 minute drive from Reykjavík city center! Around 100 shops and businesses with world renowned brands.
Come for a visit and shop tax free
OPIÐ: VIRKA DAGA 11-19 FIMMTUDAGA 11-21 LAUGARDAGA 11-18 SUNNUDAGA 13-18 WWW.SMARALIND.IS FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM
Lookout highlight
Rounding up the horses Iceland’s largest and most famous horse roundup, Laufskálarétt, takes place in Skagafjörður in September. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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Hold your horses
Iceland’s largest and most famous horse roundup, Laufskálarétt, takes place in Skagafjörður, an area famous for horse breeding, at the end of September. he action begins on Friday, 25th of September, with celebrations taking place in the equestrian centre in Svaðastaðir.
The roundup itself begins early on Saturday morning when riders leave Kolbeinsdalur valley to gather hundreds of horses. Around 3000 guests have participated in the roundups in previous years – making this an event to remember.
The locals, known as Skagfirðingar, are known for their cheerful nature and the roundups are known to be filled with song and laughter. Later that evening guests assembly in the equestrian centre in Svaðastaðir for an annual dance. When: When: 26th of September.
A little taste of Reykjavík Join Reykjavík by Food, a guided walking tour of the capital that incorporates food tastings around the city. eykjavík by Food is a walking tour of Reykjavík that incorporates food tastings around the city. The three-hour-long tour takes visitors on a gastronomical journey through Reykjavík’s centre as they learn more about the country’s culinary traditions, history, and restaurant scene. The tour is organised by Icelandic Mountain Guides, a local tour operator that boasts over two decades of experience within the tourism sector. It will bring guests to a number of selected eateries, cafés, and bars, to give them a little taste of Iceland. The tour begins at the ITM Information Centre in Bankastræti 2 at 12 pm and costs 11.900 ISK for adults, 5.950 for children between the ages 10 and 15.
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Come and get it! Icelandic Mountain Guides offer a guided walking tour of Reykjavík that incorporates food tastings around the city. Photo/GVA
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Lookout A serene bistro
Kapers Kapers is a new, Scandinavian bistro, located inside the beautiful Culture House at Hverfisgata.
Scandinavian style The menu, décor, and the building that houses Kapers create a serene Scandinavian atmosphere. Photos/Kapers
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ocated in the Culture House, one of the more beautiful and imposing buildings in downtown Reykjavík, Kapers is a Scandinavian bistro that offers a relaxed and simple menu. The brunch menu features an Icelandic twist with pan-fried Icelandic hot dogs (instead of breakfast sausages) with sweet fried onion, remulade, and whipped skyr. The regular dinner menu has more of a Scandinavian twist, including traditional Danish open sandwiches (smørrebrød), a Kapers burger, which includes slow-cooked neck of pork, and a fish of the day. The menu, décor, and the building that houses Kapers all contribute to a refreshingly serene Scandinavian atmosphere, which can offer a much-needed refuge from the hustle and bustle of Laugavegur and the new Dunkin Donuts. The two establishments, both among the most recent additions to the restaurant and café selection in downtown Reykjavík, offer an interesting counterpoint to one another. Of course, most of us occasionally crave mass-produced, sugarcoated and deepfried American pastries, served in a loud café with windows that stretch from floor to ceiling, allowing us to gawk at the throngs of people. But then there are times when a glazed doughnut won’t give you the serenity you can get from eating handmade smørrebrød with smoked salmon served in the Scandinavian calm of the Culture House, with its deep-set small windows. – MSH
See more: kapers.is
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Wonderworld Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Traversing the Eldhraun lava field is one of the most serene experiences you can have when driving around Iceland on the “Ring Road” (Route 1). The thick green moss dressing the lava wipes out all hard edges and, for a while, the world exists only in the colours of the asphalt, the sky, and the moss. This disguises the violent past of Eldhraun, which was created in one of the most devastating eruptions in historic times, the Lakagígar eruption. In just eight months from 1783 to 1784, about 15 cubic kilometers of lava surfaced, covering 600 square kilometers (232 sq. mi.). It is the third largest lava flow on Earth after the end of the Ice Age. Stop by the exhibition Mosar (Moss) in the lovely Skaftárstofa Guest Centre in the nearby Kirkjubæjarklaustur village to learn more. - jk
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Lookout highlights ahead
Slow food in Djúpivogur
Ramtastic!
Djúpivogur municipality is a member of the Cittaslow International movement, which focuses on improving life in towns through resisting homogenization and globalization. Cittaslow originated in Italy as an offshoot of the Slow Food movement, which focuses on traditional cooking methods. Visit the Slow Food market in Djúpivogur and support local farmers and artisan food producers.
Join sheep farmers and sheep enthusiasts at the Hrútadagar Ram Festival in Raufarhöfn for a day of wholesome country fun. The festival is organised by sheep farmers in Þistilfjörður fjord, Sléttu, and Öxarfjörður fjord and offers owners, breeders, and potential buyers a platform to interact and engage in business. The festival also includes a range of activities related to the Icelandic sheep, ending with an old fashioned ‘sveitaball’ dance in the evening. When: 5th of October
When: 27th September.
Let’s go to the movies The 12th RIFF takes place in Reykjavík between 24th of September and the 4th of October. The festival showcases a wide range of dramas and non-fiction films from over forty countries. It also holds a number of special events taking place all over the city, including a swim-in cinema, drive-in cinema, a film screening deep inside a cave, and an interesting children’s programme. When: 24th of September until the 4th of October See: riff.is
Extreme food!
Art by Laugarvatn lake The ongoing art exhibition Gullkistan: 20 ár takes place in Listasafn Árnesinga Museum near Laugarvatn. It features works by 24 artists that all have exhibited in the area in the past 20 years. The exhibition is open every day between 12 pm and 6 pm and closes on the 20th of September. Entrance is free.
Each autumn, after the sheep roundup has been completed, Djúpivogur municipality celebrates the annual Sviðamessa. Svið is a traditional Icelandic dish, made from boiled sheep’s head. Foreign guests often regard svið as one of Iceland’s more exotic foods, on par with fermented shark and sour ram’s testicles. When: 30th September – 1st October.
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• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is
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Lookout highlights ahead
Experience magic! Northern Lights season is just around the corner.
The Roundup Amazing sight The Northern Lights occur in Iceland all year round but can’t be seen in summer because of the brightness of the summer sky. Photo/GVA
he Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, occur in Iceland all year round, given that Iceland is located at the edge of the Arctic circle, with the Auroral zone lying just above the country. However, the lights can’t be seen between the months of May and September, because of the brightness of the summer sky. For the Aurora Borealis to be visible, conditions have to be
ideal: a dark but clear sky. Typically, the Aurora appears either as a diffuse glow or as “curtains” of light that evolve and change constantly. Although modern science has explained the phenomenon that is the Aurora Borealis, the spectacle still stirs up feelings of awe and admiration in those who experience the magical green curtain that dances lightly across the starry winter skies.
Witness the annual sheep roundups.
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n autumn, sheep farmers begin to round up the stocky, shorttailed Icelandic sheep that spend the summer grazing and roaming the open countryside. The annual event is known as “réttir” in Icelandic and often features much singing, dancing, and drinking. Guests are invited to witness the annual sheep roundups that take place all over Iceland at different dates. We recommend that you do if you want to get in touch with Icelandic farming culture.
Who needs oil when you have rain? Iceland is one of the world’s select few countries to produce all its energy from renewable sources – falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Landsvirkjun generates three quarters of all electricity in Iceland, primarily for clients in energy intensive industry and data services.
Further information: landsvirkjun.com
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5 reasons to visit Reykjavík, according to locals
“When the weather is nice I like to grab some pizza from Eldsmiðjan and hang out in the garden in front of the Einar Jónsson Museum.” – Margrét Erla Maack, circus artist, belly dancer, dance instructor, DJ, and comedian
“Sundhöllin is a beautiful old indoor swimming pool with outdoor hot tubs. It was designed by the great architect Guðjón Samúelsson and is one of the most beautiful buildings in Reykjavík. I highly recommend a visit to the hot tubs during winter. Sit outside in the warm water and enjoy some stargazing, and if you are lucky, the Northern Lights.” – Signý Kolbeinsdóttir, head designer and illustrator at Tulipop, a design company that creates beautiful products for children
Reykjavík is an amazing city, full of interesting sights and activities. There are countless reasons to visit Reykjavík, Iceland’s capital. It’s a compact city with plenty of interesting sights, attractions, and activities, as well as an animated nightlife that continues into the wee hours of the morning. With so much to do, it’s difficult to pick and choose, but here are a few suggestions made by locals.
Amazing city Reykjavík has much to offer, including wonderful swimming pools, cosy coffee shops, and interesting architecture. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
“Visit the Nordic House in Vatnsmýri nature reserve. There you can enjoy art exhibitions and a nice cup of coffee.”
“I love to take my dog for walks in Elliðaárdalur valley, a beautiful forest area Iceland Magazine / issue #0 that surrounds the Elliðaá river, which is also a nice place for picnics.”
- Hrefna Rósa Sætran, chef and owner of Fiskmarkaðurinn and Grillmarkaðurinn restaurants
- Sonja Bent, fashion and textile designer based in Reykjavík
“Kaffivagninn is a cafe that is very dear to me. It’s a place that has been down by the harbor as long as I can remember. It’s a must to have a coffee and “kleina” while watching the boats and the seagulls.” - Svanhvít Tryggvadóttir, folklorist
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Design Aftur
Recycled and upcycled Reykjavík fashion brand Aftur embraces the slow-fashion ideology and creates stunning designs from upcycled textiles. Text by Sara McMahon Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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celanders have been considered rather fashion-forward by many, but few designers are as bold and progressive as Bára Hólmgeirsdóttir, the founder and mastermind behind the fashion brand Aftur. The company celebrated the slow-fashion ideology long before the term was coined, and is a favourite among environmentally conscious fashionistas. The brand name, Aftur, means “again,” and expresses the company’s ideology: to recycle and upcycle old textiles so that they can be used again. Bára founded the brand in 1999 with her sister, stylist Hrafnhildur Hólmgeirsdóttir, when they worked as buyers for numerous vintage fashion stores in Reykjavík. “Through our jobs as buyers we’d come across heaps of beautiful, quality textiles that were just lying around, unused. Also, the fashion trends at the time were not to our taste or liking, so we felt that by upcycling textiles we could justify creating new clothes despite the piles of existing clothes,” Bára explains. The sisters began creating unique designs that coincided with their ideology, and soon enough, the trend caught on with Reykjavík’s fashionistas. “We don’t do seasons because we want people to buy less and better. By avoiding seasons in fashion you slow down over-consumption and the race to always have the latest trends.” Internationally acclaimed artists such as Björk and Sigur Rós have worn Bára’s designs during world tours. “Hrafnhildur worked as Björk’s stylist for one of her world tours and together we created numerous different looks for her. I also designed costumes for Jónsi’s [Jón Þór Birgisson of Sigur Rós] solo tour and Sigur Rós’s last world tour. Most recently I designed a few pieces for OMAM [Of Monsters and Men].”
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Through our jobs as buyers we’d come across heaps of beautiful, quality textiles that were just lying around, unused.”
Where: Laugavegi 39 101 Reykjavik Iceland
Bára says most Icelandic musicians are very willing to wear and promote Icelandic design abroad, and she enjoys creating wild, attention-grabbing outfits for the stage. “It allows you to go a bit wild in your designs, which is always a pleasure. And in some ways it keeps you on your toes, because you begin to experiment more, which can often lead to new ideas.” According to Bára, Aftur has gained a faithful group of customers over the years. “Most of my customers are Icelandic. After having lived abroad, I find Icelanders to be very experimental when it comes to fashion. Yes, they wear a lot of black, but you can never have too much black,” she says, giving a little laugh. “Iceland has seen a huge increase in foreign tourists in the past decade, and so has my store. But I also have a small number of foreign regulars that visit the store every time they come to Iceland.” Bára admits that the idea of branching out and beginning to sell her designs abroad has crossed her mind. “Things here happen very organically, and up until now I’ve been happy to focus solely on my little store in Reykjavík. But lately, I’ve been thinking about stepping out of my comfort zone and setting up a Webshop, and am even looking into boutiques abroad that want to carry my designs,” she concludes.
Ahead of her time Bára Hólmgeirsdóttir founded fashion brand Aftur in 1999. The company recycles and upcycles old textiles so that they can be used again.
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interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík There is no denying that Reykjavík has its charm. Over the past years, international media like CNN, travel magazines, and websites like Condé Nast and Lonely Planet have named Reykjavík everything from the best place to visit for Christmas or the best place to spend New Year’s Eve, to simply the most interesting city in the world to visit. It has the aura of a cosmopolitan centre packed into a tiny, sparkling clean town. Here are a few things that make Reykjavík surprisingly awesome and interesting: Text by Magnús Sveinn Helgason Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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10 interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík
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The Puffin Capital Reykjavík is the only capital city in the world that is home to a major puffin breeding colony! Iceland, of course, is home to the largest and most important nesting grounds of the Atlantic puffin—an estimated 60% of the entire world’s puffin population nests in Iceland. As many as 3 or 4 million pairs of puffins nest in Iceland each year. Puffins build their nests in burrows on islands or cliffs around Iceland. While the largest colonies are in the Westman Islands, south of Iceland, and in Northern and Western Iceland, Reykjavík is home to a sizable puffin colony on Akurey island, west of the old harbour in Reykjavík. Akurey is a tiny island, one of the smallest in the Faxaflói bay, measuring only 300 meters ( just 0.2 miles) at its widest. Still, it is home to 20,000 to 30,000 breeding pairs of puffins, making it one of the most densely populated neighbourhoods in Reykjavík!
Dogs were banned in Reykjavík
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Iceland in the 20th century was a curious country and Reykjavík was the capital city of this curious country! Chances are you have heard that beer was banned in Iceland between 1915 and 1989. But did you know that there were no TV broadcasts in July until 1985 and no TV on Thursdays until 1987? Or did you know that dogs were banned in Reykjavík from 1924 to 1984? The thinking behind the ban was quite simple: A city is no place for a dog. Iceland was still predominantly a rural society and the overwhelming majority of people living in Reykjavík were either first or second generation migrants from the countryside. They considered dogs farm animals which really couldn’t adapt to urban life. Of course there were always people who flouted the ban by keeping illegal dogs. The most high-profile case of such illegal dogs involved the conservative MP and Minister of Finance, Albert Guðmundsson and his dog Lucy, a mongrel of undistinguished ancestry. In 1984, when Albert was reported to the police, charged with breaking the ban, and ordered to give up his dog, a media frenzy erupted which ended in the ban on dogs being partially lifted, allowing people to apply for an exception from the ban. These exceptions became progressively more liberal, until 2006, when the ban was finally lifted completely.
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10 interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík
4. Permanent settlement in Iceland began in Reykjavík
With no dogs, cats ruled! Anyone visiting Reykjavík has noted that the city is full of cats. There are no official figures on the number of cats in Reykjavík, but the Icelandic Cat Protection Society, which operates a cat shelter, has estimated that there might be as many as 20,000 cats in the capital region, or one cat for every ten people. The overwhelming majority of the cats in Reykjavík are domestic cats. You might think that the large numbers of un-collared cats must be feral, but Icelanders have a bad habit of allowing their felines to roam sans collar or bell, much to the chagrin of bird lovers who have repeatedly claimed that the cats are chasing songbirds out of Reykjavík. They point out that the town of Akureyri in Northern Iceland—which, unlike Reykjavik, is not ruled by cats—has a much larger population of birds. The feral cat population was brought under control in the 1980s and ‘90s. A massive operation in 2000 to eradicate the remaining feral population found only a handful of cats who didn’t have a warm windowsill to return to. Instead of collars, cats in Reykjavík are tagged with microchips, which allow them to be returned to their rightful owners if they get lost.
According to the oldest written sources on Icelandic history, Landnámabók, the Book of Settlement, and Íslendingabók, the Book of Icelanders, the first permanent settlement in Iceland was in Reykjavík in 874. Archaeological research has confirmed that Reykjavík was most likely one of the first places in Iceland with a permanent settlement, although the identity of the first settler and the date of settlement are likely more myth than historical fact. Take for example the story of why Ingólfur Arnarson, who is often said to be the first settler, chose Reykjavík. The sagas claim that The first Ingólfur threw his öndvegissúlur, a pair of wooden poles which were placed on either side of a Viking chief’s high seat, into the sea, vowing permanent to settle wherever they came to shore. He then landed in Southern settlement in Iceland and sent his slaves to search for the poles. Three years later, Iceland was in after the poles were found near Reykjavík, Ingólfur set up his farm on Reykjavík in the shore by the small hill Arnarhóll, where his statue now stands. A more likely explanation for the decision of the earliest settlers to 874. choose Reykjavík can be found in the name of Reykjavík, which translates literally as “smokey bay.” The steam rising from hot springs in the city (see below) made Reykjavík an appealing place to build a farm. With fertile lowland, forested hills, plenty of hot and cold water, ample fishing grounds, and islands just off the coast filled with birds, Reykjavík would have been an ideal place to live.
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Nearly half of the inhabitants during WWII were British and American
British troops arrived in Reykjavík on May 10, 1940, occupying Iceland and thus separating the Icelanders from their former colonial masters in Denmark, who were by then under German rule. A year later, America took over the military protection of Iceland. The occupation forces quickly transformed Iceland and Reykjavík. In the late summer of 1941, when American troops were beginning to arrive, there were already 28,000 British troops in Iceland. By the summer of 1942, there were as many as 55,000 American and British soldiers in Iceland. Most (more than 80%) of the foreign troops were stationed in Reykjavík and its immediate vicinity in the southwestern corner of the island. When we consider the fact that the population of Reykjavík was only 38,000 in 1940, we can easily imagine the impact. The foreign troops brought with them new cultural influences, new consumer goods, and above all, money. Reykjavík underwent a transformation which is probably only rivalled by the present explosion of tourism with new cafés and restaurants opening up all over town. Unemployment, which had been a persistent problem in the 1930s, was wiped out overnight as Icelanders were hired to do various jobs for the troops, including the construction of barracks for the troops. The British also constructed the first airport in Iceland, the Reykjavík municipal airport, while the Americans built a larger airport near the base in Keflavík.
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10 interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík
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People in Reykjavík lived in turf houses into the 1960s One of the first things foreign travellers notice when arriving in Iceland is the virtual absence of trees and forests. This meant that Icelanders could not build wooden houses. But neither could Icelanders build stone buildings. The reason was that no lime deposits had been found, meaning it was not possible to make mortar. This left turf as the only easily available domestic building material for houses. It was only in 1863 that lime deposits were discovered in the mountain Esja north of Reykjavík. Still, it took the residents of Reykjavík more than a hundred years to move out of the turf farms or sod houses that they had lived in for centuries. In the 1960s, there were still people living in one sod farm in Reykjavík, which stood by Suðurgata street, south of the old harbour. The farm was only demolished in 1980. Although memoirs of people who grew up in sod houses describe them as snug and cosy, it is difficult for modern humans to envision what life must have been like in a dwelling which was really a glorified hole in the ground, perhaps resembling a puffin burrow more than a modern house.
7. The northernmost capital city in the world Life in a sod house in Reykjavík must have been particularly tough in the winter months! Reykjavík is the northernmost capital city of a sovereign state in the world. Only Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, is further north than Reykjavík. Since Reykjavík is located at 64°08‘N, just two degrees south of the Arctic Circle, the darkest days of winter are both very dark and very long. At the winter solstice, on December 21, daylight lasts for only 4 hours and 8 minutes in Reykjavík. Taking into consideration
cloud cover and the endless rain, sleet, or snow, those four hours barely register as day. Little wonder that Reykjavík residents leave the Christmas lights out on their balconies well into January! The upside, of course, is that during the summer the sun barely sets. At the summer solstice in June, Reykjavík gets 21 hours and 11 minutes of daylight. And even the remaining 2 hours and 49 minutes are not completely dark!
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10 interesting things you (probably) didn’t know about Reykjavík
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A very small big city Even if it sometimes feels like a large metropolis, Reykjavík is a very small city. In 2015, there were 211,282 people living in the capital region. Of those, 121,822, or just over half, lived in Reykjavík proper, with the rest living in other municipalities in the metropolitan area. This means that the greater Reykjavík area has a population similar to the city of Des Moines, Iowa, in the US, or a little less than the city of Southampton in the UK. Comparatively speaking, however, Reykjavík is quite large. Almost two thirds, or over 64%, of Icelanders live in the capital region. Few countries have a similarly large portion of their population living in one city. Uruguay comes close, with 60% of the population living in the Montevideo metropolitan area.
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Only Western European capital without a Starbucks or a McDonald’s Reykjavík is the only Western European capital without a McDonald’s or a Starbucks. In fact, the only other European capital without a McDonald’s is Tirana, the capital of Albania, while Reykjavík shares the distinction of being Starbucks-free with Rome, the capital of espresso. But fear not. If you are craving fast food or coffee made by an American fast food franchise, you have plenty of places to visit. Taco Bell, KFC, Dominos, Pizza Hut, Subway, and Dunkin Donuts have all opened stores in Reykjavík. McDonald’s did try to colonize Iceland, opening a restaurant with great fanfare in 1993. Davíð Oddsson, prime minister of Iceland at the time, ordered and ate the first burger. But for some reason, McDonald’s hamburgers never really caught on, and the restaurant was closed down in 2009.
A multicultural city Despite the conspicuous absence of Starbucks or McDonald’s, the best known symbols of global consumer culture, Reykjavík is a very cosmopolitan and multicultural city. Like any other metropolis, Reykjavik’s inhabitants come from all over the world. Immigrants of 131 different nationalities make up 8.5% of the total population. The highest concentration is in the suburb of Breiðholt, where 20% of the population is either a first or a second generation immigrant, according to the 2011 census.
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www.theviking.is TAX FREE Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
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Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
Heathens hate
The Icelandic Pagan Association, Ásatrúarfélagið, is the fastest-growing religious congregation in Iceland. With close to 3,000 members, it is the sixth largest religious group in Iceland, and by far the largest non-Christian group. Since 2000, it has grown by 657%. This year the congregation started the construction of its temple in Reykjavík, which it plans to consecrate late next year. It will be the first pagan temple constructed in the Nordic countries in over a thousand years. Text by Magnús Sveinn Helgason
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Whatever the reason for the growth of the Ásatrúarfélag might be, it is not aggressive heathen proselytizing. Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson, the high priest or Allsherjargoði of the Ásatrúarfélag, tells us that neither he nor any other member of the congregation has engaged in missionary work. “We do not go around trying to recruit new members. People come to us because they see something they like, they witness our ceremonies, whether it is a wedding or a funeral, and they see that these are beautiful ceremonies, and they feel that Ásatrú might have something to offer them.” Hilmar Örn stresses that Ásatrú is a religion of peace and respect. “It is a religion which teaches you how to live in harmony with your surroundings and yourself, and how to deal with the different phases of your life. How to become of age and then how to age.” True to this, the Ásatrú, as it is practiced in Iceland, is a religion of respect and tolerance. “We reflect Icelandic society and Icelandic values,” Hilmar tells us.
Hilmar argues that the basis of this mistaken view of Ásatrú, as a religion obsessed with glorifying heroism, battles, and blood, is to be found in the 19th century.“This misreading of Ásatrú comes from the fact that many seem to view it through the lens of 19th-century German nationalism. In the 19th century, German nationalists, artists, poets, and composers looked to the Poetic Edda for artistic inspiration and read into it the kind of militarism, hero-worship, and warrior deification that dominated the German zeitgeist at the time.” Hilmar has also come under fire from what he calls heathen “fundamentalists“ for having proclaimed that he does not take the stories of the gods literally. “I have said I do not believe in a one-eyed man, riding an eight-legged horse, and some consider this blasphemy. There are always people who want things to be set in stone. But the Poetic Edda is fundamentally about how life changes, and how you must be prepared to respond to the changes it brings.”
Homophobia and gender-bending gods
Blót Mebers of Ásatrú hold regular celebratory feasts or blót throughout the year. Foremost are the four major blót of the summer and winter soltices and the two equinoxes. Photo/Stefán Karlsson
However, while the emphasis on respect and tolerance has contributed to the growth of the congregation in Iceland, it does not sit well with some foreign practitioners of the faith. Hilmar tells us that Ásatrúarfélagið has received “disturbing” messages and hate mail from conservative pagans in other countries. Among other things, the emphasis Ásatrúarfélagið places upon equality and respect for human rights, especially LGBT rights, has angered some reactionary heathens abroad.
Odin, of course, was one-eyed, having sacrificed his eye to Mimir, at the well of Urdur at the root of the world-tree Yggdrasill. His horse, Sleipnir, is the child of the god Loki (in the form of a mare) and Svaðilfari, a giant of the race of Hrimthurs, who built the walls of the gods’ realm, Asgard. This is a story which should remind us that the gods can engage in quite dramatic gender-bending—even species-bending! Another important story from the Edda involves Thor, the god of thunder and the embodiment of manliness, impersonating the goddess Freyja. The Jötun king Þrymr had stolen Thor’s hammer Mjölnir, and demanded the hand of Freyja in exchange for the hammer. By dressing up in drag and marrying the king, Thor was able to recover the hammer. Indeed, Hilmar argues that the Viking Age inhabitants of the Nordic countries and Iceland were free of the kind of homophobia that has become standard among cultural conservatives today. “They base their interpretation of Ásatrú upon Tacitus’s Germania, a Roman treatise written in AD 70. Germania was written to influence domestic debates in Rome. Tacitus portrayed the Germanic tribes as noble savages who could teach the Romans how to return to a path he felt they had left. It should not be read as an accurate description of how the Germanic people practiced their religion, and it certainly does not describe how the settlers of Iceland practiced their religion, some 800 years later.”
Cut all ties with foreign heathen groups Ásatrú vs 19th-century German militaristic nationalism “Ásatrú is not a religion which celebrates machismo, militarism, or bloodshed, contrary to what many seem to believe. Quite the contrary. There is a lot of that stuff in the Dróttkvæði [the ancient heroic poetry preserved in the Sagas], where the poets were spinning verses of heroic deeds they had perhaps not even done. But there is very little of that kind of boasting and bombastic heroism in the Poetic Edda, which are the primary texts revered in Icelandic Ásatrú.”
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The Ásatrúarfélag cut all formal ties with foreign heathen congregations in the 1980s, after Hilmar Örn and his predecessor as the high priest, Sveinbjörn Beinteinsson, became alarmed at the politics of some of the foreign groups who visited the Ásatrúarfélag. “These people seemed to view Iceland as some kind of Rome of the North, and sought out Sveinbjörn for a sort of papal blessing. Most were very nice in person, but once we started to look into what they were saying at home we encountered things we found extremely disturbing, so in the end we decided to cut all ties to foreign groups. We didn’t
“The Poetic Edda and these traditions were preserved here in Iceland, and we will not tolerate some foreign reactionaries coming here to tell us how to practice our faith.”
want to participate in extremist politics.” Unfortunately, nationalists and racist elements have found their way into many foreign pagan and heathen congregations, Hilmar tells us. “There have never been such elements within the Ásatrúarfélag. Only one former member that I can think of has expressed such views. Otherwise we have been fortunate to be completely free of such elements.”
Foreign hate mail
After news of the planned construction of the pagan temple broke in the international media in early 2015, Ásatrúarfélagið again became the center of international attention. “The building of the temple had been discussed here in Iceland since 2006, but it was only in 2015 that foreign media became interested. And following that, we started to receive more criticism from people who felt we were practicing our faith the wrong way, that we were somehow desecrating Ásatrú by being too tolerant. At first I didn’t take this very seriously, but then we were told that the temple and the Ásatrúarfélag were being discussed in closed groups, where people were planning to visit the temple to ‘re-consecrate’ it with some blood ceremonies, to ‘correct’ what these people feel is our perversion of Ásatrú. Some of what we read was extremely disturbing.” As a consequence, the temple of Ásatrúarfélagið will not be as open to the public as originally planned. “We don’t have deep coffers and all our work is done by volunteers, so
we won’t be able to maintain guards. As a result, we will not be able to have the kind of open door policy we had planned.”
“Ásatrúarfélagið – we are at your side!” But not all of the foreign attention has been negative. After Iceland Magazine published a story on its website about the hate mail the Ásatrúarfélag has received, the congregation and Hilmar have been showered with support from foreign heathens. A Facebook event was created by a group of European heathens to assure Hilmar and the Ásatrúarfélag that “Icelandic heathens are not alone in this matter and that the signers of this statement fully and truly support your cause. ... We will not let some people with reactionary and bigoted views determine the essence of our religious approach!” Over 2,300 people had signed up when this magazine went to print. Hilmar has been deeply moved by this support. “I was pleasantly surprised. The loudmouths and the yappers always drown out the voices of sanity and reason, so you end up noticing them more. They start to dominate.“ No matter what such reactionary pagans—the “crazies and trolls of the internet”—might say, Hilmar asserts, the Ásatrúarfélag will not change how it practices the ancient religion. “The Poetic Edda and these traditions were preserved here in Iceland, and we will not tolerate some foreign reactionaries coming here to tell us how to practice our faith.” Hilmar reminds us that the Ásatrúarfélag is an Icelandic congregation, that it represents its Icelandic members, and that it is responsible only to them. “But if foreigners wish to look to us as a model, they are welcome to do so. We will continue to be ourselves, and we won’t change how we do things to satisfy the views and beliefs of racists or nationalists.”
Öskuhlíð and the Pearl The first central heathen temple to be built in the Nordic countries in nearly a thousand years will be located in Öskuhlíð, Reykjavík. Photo/GVA
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… or not! Reykjavík, Iceland’s capital, has much to offer, whether you are a king or a student on a budget. Iceland has a reputation for being an expensive country to visit, but fret not, you can enjoy all the country has to offer on a budget too. And we’ll even tell you how. Here are three travel options, one for the budget-minded, another for those who want to live just a little, and a third for those who really wish to spoil themselves rotten.
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The budget
Stay: In and around Reykjavík there are many good hostels that offer affordable accommodation. One of those hostels is the über-trendy Kex Hostel, located on Skúlagata. Another option is to rent an apartment or a room through Airbnb. Eat: Local food trucks offer good meals for reasonable prices. However, should you prefer to eat your meals inside, try dropping by some of Reykjavík’s finest restaurants at lunchtime – the food is great and the price is more affordable during lunch hours. Drink: Many bars now try and lure in thirsty patrons with the promise of low-priced beverages during Happy Hour. And most of us are more than happy to oblige. Quench your thirst during Happy Hour, or, if you are really skint, stock up on local craft beers or a nice bottle of vino at the Off Licence to enjoy at home, or in Austurvöllur park during a particularly sunny day. Enjoy: If there’s one thing in abundance in Reykjavík, it’s swimming pools. And every single one is fantastic! They’re like mini spas, so make a day out of it. Enjoy lounging about in the hot tub, then jump into the sauna and release all the stress from your body. See: Tuk Tuk Tours will take you all around the old city centre and give you a little insight into the city’s history, architecture, and daily life for 3,500 ISK per person. Love: Take a casual stroll around Grótta nature reserve; take in the stunning views, breathe in the fresh air, and end your walk by resting your tired feet in the small geothermal pool located by the seashore.
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The in-between
Stay: Book one of Kex Hostel’s private rooms. They’re reasonably priced, chic, and well located. Eat: Bistros are the way to go if you don’t want to spend a fortune but still feel like dining out. Snaps (Þórsgata 1), Restó (Rauðarárstígur 27-29), and Matur og drykkur (Grandagarður 2) all offer fantastic food for good value. Drink: Check out Kaldi, a small, cosy bar with a homey feel about it, and four different types of local micro brews on tap. The beers have no added sugar or preservatives and taste pretty damn delicious. Be extra thrifty and drop by during Happy Hour. Enjoy: Treat yourself to some pampering at Sóley Natura Spa, located in hotel Natura. After enjoying a relaxing massage, head to the swimming pool and take advantage of the Float products available to spa guests. They allow you to float weightlessly in the pool and leave you feeling completely relaxed and calm. See: Why not experience Icelandic nature the “old-fashioned way” – on horseback? Íshestar offers riding tours around Heiðmörk, one of Reykjavík’s most stunning outdoor areas, for 125 euros per person. The Icelandic horse is hardy, sure-footed, long-lived, and can display two gaits in addition to the typical walk, trot, and gallop. One is a four-beat ambling gait called tölt, which guests are given a chance to experience during the tour. Love: Rent a bicycle (for example at Kex Hostel) and explore all that Reykjavík has to offer in a stimulating and economical manner. Investigate Reykjavík’s suburbs and outdoor areas or cycle along the ocean front to the geothermal beach in Nauthólsvík, near Öskjuhlíð hill, and enjoy lunch at Kaffi Nauthóll.
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The splurge
Stay: Stay at one of Reykjavík’s many elegant hotels, where the staff will cater to your every whim. Eat: Since you’re indulging, why not go all out and enjoy a fullon culinary experience at Dill restaurant (Hverfisgata 12). The restaurant specialises in New Nordic cuisine and guests can choose between a three, five, or a seven course meal. The set menu changes regularly throughout the year and in accordance with the seasons. You could also treat your taste buds to Fiskmarkaðurinn’s (Aðalstræti 12) mouth-watering tasting menu. They’ll love you for it. Drink: Beer connoisseurs are advised to pay Mikkeller & Friends (Hverfisgata 12) a little visit. The beers don’t come cheap, but they’re darn tasty! Cocktail aficionados are encouraged to drop by Loftið (Austurstræti 9) and try their colourful cocktails. Enjoy: Spend a day in the Blue Lagoon. Arrive early and relax in the comfortable water and stunning surroundings. Then head over for a full body massage while still submerged in the warm, pale blue water, followed by a delightful lunch at Lava restaurant and some more R&R. See: Experience Reykjavík from above with Norðurflug helicopter tours. The Reykjavík Summit tour will fly you over the capital, giving visitors a completely new perspective of the city, before landing on a nearby mountain top for the perfect photo op. If you are feeling exceptionally lavish, bring a bottle of bubbly along on the trip. Love: Whale watching in Faxaflói bay is an exhilarating experience and the memories will last you a lifetime. Sail from Reykjavík harbour out into the bay and encounter curious minke whales, playful dolphins, and magnificent humpbacks. The local guides have a wealth of knowledge when it comes to marine and bird life in the bay.
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Icelandic Highlands
promotion
Highland oasis Kýlingar area, in the Friðland að Fjallabaki region. Photo/Roar Aagestad
Save the Icelandic Highlands – the Heart of Iceland Please help us protect the Icelandic Highlands and contribute to our efforts by signing the pledge on our website www.heartoficeland.org
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ver the last few decades, the Icelandic Highlands have been under siege, threatened by increasing pressure to build power plants, paved roads, and power lines. That demand comes from energy companies but 80% of all electricity produced in Iceland is sold to polluting industries, such as aluminum smelters. The Icelandic Highlands form one of the largest territories in Europe, south of the Arctic Circle, which has never been inhabited or cultivated and are considered one of the last great wild ernesses in Europe. In a Capacent-Gallup poll in 2015, the majority of respondents (over 60%) said they favored a national park in the Highlands and 80% of tourists name nature as a main reason for visiting Iceland. We need your help to protect our pristine nature in the Highlands.
The map of Iceland These are the proposed plans in the highlands. 220kW high voltage overhead power line over Sprengisandur plateau, built up paved roads over Kjölur and Sprengisandur plateau and up to fifteen new power plants. Read more about the proposed plans and their effects at www.heartoficeland.org
Landvernd, the Icelandic Environ ment Association, is an NGO that was founded in 1969. It is the largest environmental NGO in Iceland with 3900 members. Landvernd focuses on environmental education,
environmental management and en vironmental policy- and protection in Iceland. One of Landvernd´s biggest battles at the moment, is the fight to protect the Highlands of Iceland from energy production.
Learn more about Landvernd here www.landvernd.is/en
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Where the Arctic Fox Reigns Supreme
Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is Iceland’s most isolated region, outside of the central highlands. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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The lighthouse Hornbjargsviti lighthouse was abandoned in 1995 and now serves as a travel lodge.
hen the last lighthouse keeper packed his bags and left the Hornbjargsviti lighthouse in 1995, he did not turn off the lights. For years, he had guided seafarers away from the vertical cliffs that had taken so many boats and lives through the ages. But finally, automation took over his job at the lighthouse. Now the old lighthouse keeper’s home is a travel lodge maintained by the Icelandic Touring Association. The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve is located at the northernmost part of the Westfjords, only a few kilometers south of the Arctic Circle. This is Iceland’s most isolated region, outside of the central highlands. There are no roads in the region and low-flying planes are banned in order to maintain the serenity of the area. When all the humans had gone, the Arctic fox took the top seat in the food chain. With no farmers or hunters around, the foxes have grown accustomed to visitors. They don’t hide from people and sometimes they become quite friendly, hoping to be rewarded with some dried fish, a piece of meat or other delicacies that might be hiding in the backpacks of those trekking through this rugged wilderness. To get to Hornstrandir, you can either take a scheduled boat tour or charter your own boat from the towns Ísafjörður or Bolungarvík. Several companies offer trips to the area during the summer. The trip takes about one hour. Human interference is kept to an absolute minimum at Hornstrandir. The plant and animal life is fragile in this uncompromising environment. Please help us keep it intact. -jk
Roughing it A trip to Hornstrandir is a memorable experience.
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Stunning views Hornstrandir is Iceland’s most isolated areas.
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Wading in Visitors are forced to get close to nature in the Hornstrandir area.
Top of the world There are no roads in the Hornstrandir region and low-flying planes are banned in order to maintain the serenity of the area.
Hornstrandir
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Next Spring Maybe? Care about the coast? Interested in the wilderness? Then you should team up with volunteers who visit Hornstrandir Nature Reserve every spring to clean the beaches. The sea delivers all kinds of plastic and parts of fishing nets to the shore, threatening birds and marine wildlife when they accidentally eat or become entangled in the litter. To sign up or for further information send an email to postur@isafjordur.is or phone +354 450-8038
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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
Iceland Mag explains
Eina kleinu (one kleina) Both kleina and jólakaka are popular in Iceland. Icelanders often have one or the other with their afternoon coffee. Photo/Yez Raphn at Wikipedia.org.
Recreating the Old
Add the sour milk and knead the dough. Form the kleinur in the traditional twisted shape by spreading or rolling the dough out thinly, then cutting it into 3 x 4 in. squares. Cut a slit in the middle of each square, and pull one corner of the dough through the slit. Drop them into a pot of deep frying oil.
Question: My Icelandic mother used to make Icelandic cakes called jólakaka and kleinur. I’ve lost the recipes—could you help me? Answer: Icelandic kleinur are a popular pastry, sold in most bakeries and grocery stores. The plain pastry is a popular accompaniment with a cup of coffee, or a tall glass of cold milk, and enjoyed by people of all ages.
Here’s a classic recipe for kleinur from Svarfaðardalur valley, North Iceland. 600 g flour 200 g sugar 180 g butter 4 heaping teaspoons baking powder 3 eggs 1 cup milk 1 cup Icelandic sour milk (or plain yoghurt) ¼ tsp. cardamom essence Mix the flour and sugar in a bowl, add the baking powder. Crumble the butter into the bowl and add the eggs, milk, and the ground cardamom.
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Icelandic kleinur are a popular pastry, sold in most bakeries and grocery stores.
Despite its seasonal name, jólakaka (Christmas cake), this cake is enjoyed all year around. It’s a dry cake full of tasty raisins. 100 g butter 125 g sugar 2 eggs 200 g flour 2.5 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp lemon juice [[Lemon drops usually means candy—I think you mean drops of lemon juice?]] ½ cup milk ½ cup raisins Whip sugar and butter together until it turns light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and the lemon juice. Sift the flour and baking powder into the mixture. Finally, stir in the raisins. Place into a baking form and bake at 175 degrees Celsius (347 Fahrenheit) for one hour.
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Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com
Question: Does it get very cold in Iceland?
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.
ask@icelandmag.com
www.arnartr.com
Photo/ Valli
Answer: Although the name of the country suggests otherwise, the warm North Atlantic breezes and the Gulf Stream (the Atlantic ocean current that originates at the tip of Florida) make the average temperatures in Iceland higher than in most places of similar latitude. The coldest months in Iceland are December and January, with temperatures dropping just below freezing, the zero mark on the Celsius scale (32°F). The average temperature in Reykjavík in January is –0.6 °C. That is similar to New York, which is at 40°N (24° further south than Reykjavík). July and August are generally the warmest months with an average temperature of 10.4°C (50.7°F).
the warmth of Iceland Varma is dedicated to maintaining Icelandic tradition in developing, designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling.
Varma is available in various tourist shops around Iceland
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Gjóska promotion
Lava flows and northern lights Gjóska is an Icelandic design brand that produces unique woollen hats, sweaters, scarfs and coats. Hand-made on a farm in northern Iceland, Gjóska’s designs are deeply inspired by Icelandic nature and landscape.
Inspired by nature Hand-made by Birna Kristín Friðriksdóttir, Gjóska’s designs are inspired by Icelandic nature and landscape. Photo/Stefán Karlsson
enjoy keeping up with their world travels,” she says, giving a hearty laugh. Birna Kristín intends to continue to expand her business even further in the near future, but is adamant about keeping production in Iceland. ræ t
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of that and we have begun to label our designs as ‘really made in Iceland’,” she says. Adding: “It is fun knowing that my designs are now worn all around the world, from South Africa, to Australia, and all over Europe and the U.S. I
ta ga yju Fre
Really made in Iceland Birna Kristín creates her products in a studio on her farm in North Iceland, but recently opened a small boutique on Skólavörðustígur street, down-town Reykjavík. The store is frequently visited by foreign travellers who are attracted to Birna Kristín’s unique designs, and many comment on how refreshing it is to find
something other than the traditional woollen sweater being made from Icelandic wool. “My designs are made from Icelandic wool, in Iceland and are inspired by the beautiful Icelandic nature and landscapes. I’m very proud
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had the idea to create a collection of woollen hats named Volcap shortly after the Eyjafjallajökull eruption began in 2010. Photos of the glowing, red lava stream on Fimmvörðuháls left me inspir ed and I began to design woollen hats with needle felted patterns, resembling flowing lava, running down the side of it, and then erupting into a fountain of red, orange and yellow on the top of the head,” tells Birna Kristín Friðriksdótt ir, the founder and owner of design brand Gjóska. Gjóska’s product range soon expanded and now also includes jumpers, scarfs, and coats. The patterns Birna Kristín developed too, and resemble a craggy lava field, snow, moss, and flickering northern lights.
ta rga
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“My dream is to be able to design patterns for knitted textiles in addition to needle felting. But I’m determined to keep production in Iceland and continue working with the Icelandic wool,” she concludes. Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
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Brennivín
New Perspective Icelandic Brennivín is gaining ground in the US.
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he Icelandic aquavit, Brennivín, continues to win over an inter national following. Recently the New York Times Style magazine featured the flavourful drink, dubbing it “Iceland’s Newest Export.” Brennivín is also affectionately known as “Black Death,” due to the somber black label of the bottles (and the name is also said to be a joking reference to the effect the strong liquor has on drinkers). Distinctive taste and label
Most foreign visitors who strike up a conversation with a local at an Icelandic bar will be encouraged to try the caraway spiced spirit. Some visitors to Iceland have even taken a liking to the drink, whether for the uniquely mini malistic design of the label or the taste. The bottle and its contents certainly have their rough charm: Michael Madsen is seen drinking Brennivín in Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill 2. Traditionally Brennivín is sipped icecold, like other aquavits. Icelanders used to drink it mixed with a cola, or even chocolate milk, but no Icelandic cock tails containing Brennivín have managed to gain any significant popularity. However, as the drink is becoming wellknown in America, some creative barmen have figured out ways to make this edgy, vodka-like drink even more interesting.
Unique taste Brennivín is the Icelandic aquavit.
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Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
Try this summery Brennivín cocktail
The bottle and its contents certainly have their rough charm: Michael Madsen is seen drinking Brennivín in Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill 2.”
The New York Times published the following cocktail recipe, which mixes the caraway taste of Brennivín with cucumber, sweet blond vermouth, and a rhubarb liqueur, topped off with pilsner. The “Stone Crush” cocktail was developed by New York barman and Brennivín enthusiast Chaim Dauermann, who has found Brennivín actually goes well with a lot of different things, including cucumber. “If you want to describe it as a summer cocktail, by all means,” he tells the New York Times Style magazine.
Chaim Dauermann’s Stone Crush Yield: 1 drink 1½ ounces Brennivín aquavit ½ ounce Dolin Blanc vermouth ¼ ounce Rabarbaro Zucca amaro 1 ounce Stiegl Goldbräu pilsner beer 1 cucumber, sliced 1 lemon Instructions: I In a mixing glass, muddle three or four slices of cucumber into a juicy pulp. 2 Fill the mixing glass with ice, then add the Brennivín, vermouth and Zucca. Stir well. Lastly, add the Stiegl beer. 3 Strain the drink through a fine-mesh sieve into an ice-filled glass. 4 Cut a strip of lemon peel and twist it over the drink to express the lemon oil. Discard the peel. 5
Garnish with more slices of cucumber and serve.
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Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
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Iceland Magazine / issue #07 2015
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