Issue 04 2015
How to make your own skyr
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Power, nature & fish in Grindavík
P 36
Kviðmágur and other words in Icelandic that don’t exist in English
P 46
T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
Yo ur
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EE
co py
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Wild At Heart Heading for the central highlands
p.30
Best of Design in Iceland What can you bring back home in a suitcase?
Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
Vestmannaeyjar Pompeii of the North From 15 May
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Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike Daily departures 2 departures daily from 1 June
Whale Watching Daily departures
Snæfellsnes Peninsula Daily departures from 1 June
24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Sales Office, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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Contents from the editor
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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
Tread Lightly
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he growing number of foreign visitors to Iceland is the best thing that has happened in the fight to preserve the natural characteristics of our rugged central highlands, and for nature preservation in Iceland in general. Around 80% of visitors claim in polls that the main reason for their visit to Iceland is to enjoy nature and the landscape. They often come from countries where every square meter is man-made and cultivated, bringing with them a deep thirst for untouched nature, a craving for the glaciers, the far-away deserted fjords, and the highlands, where rivers and waterfalls run free. So, with tourism now the country’s most important business, the pristine landscape has become a resource of great value. Of course, a lot of people think that you can’t put a price tag on nature’s wonders, many even detest the idea. We at Iceland Magazine are firmly of the opinion that Iceland’s central highlands should be preserved within a national park that will provide priceless spiritual nourishment for ourselves and future generations. And this ideal also receives support from those who view the world cold-heartedly through an Excel spreadsheet. Nature preservation consists not only in saving areas from encroaching developments: dams, high-voltage power lines, and other mad plans that are still very much alive in Iceland. Great care must also be taken to avoid damage caused by too much traffic. Tourism can be a terribly aggressive and destructive use of natural resources. Travel companies and the authorities have to shoulder the responsibility of enforcing sustainable travel. And so do you, dear reader. You have to minimize your impact on the land. That means you must stay on defined roads and tracks. Off-road driving is hugely harmful to the country’s fragile vegetation and, in Iceland, is illegal. Please be careful not to leave anything behind, no trace that you were ever there.
24 Contents 6-18 Lookout 6 At world’s end 8 Radio Iceland & Outdoor Equipment 10 Pompeii of the North 12 Haunted Highlands Lodge 14-16 Secret Solstice Music Festival, Iceland’s National Day, Tattoo festival in Reykjavík and more highlights ahead 20 Make Your Own Skyr! Skyr’s popularity is on the rise—locally and internationally. Chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason on us how to make thick, rich, delicious homemade skyr. 24 Heading For The Highlands The central highlands are home to many of Iceland’s most magnificent natural wonders. The visiting window is short during the summer, however, as most mountain roads remain closed until late June and, in some places, late July. 30 Best of Design in Iceland Four renowned connoisseurs and experts nominate exceptional examples of design in Iceland.
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Jóna María Hafsteinsdóttir jmh@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Jerel Lai, Ernir Eyjólfsson, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: From the Landmannalaugar area in the central highlands (see p. 36). Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
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42 Fish, Nature, Power In and around the thriving fishing town of Grindavík you will find various examples of what has characterised life in Iceland. Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
42 Iceland Magazine Explains Do you really have to wash yourself without your swimsuit before entering Icelandic swimming pools? Why is there a special Beer Day in Iceland? And other burning questions answered. 46 Don’t’ Get Lost In Translation 10 words and phrases in Icelandic that don’t exist in English.
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HELICOPTER TOURS It was without a doubt my highlight of the whole trip. I’ve been flying before but completely nothing can be compared to flying in Iceland. The views you see… it just made me speechless, my heart was racing, a big smile on my face… as if I was in love!
reykjavíkurflugvelli info@helicopter.is Iceland Magazine / issue #04562 20152500 I5
Lookout Norðurfjörður Restaurant
The perfect spot Kaffi Norðurfjörður is a small restaurant located in Árneshreppur, Iceland’s most sparsely populated district. It’s run by two childhood friends Lovísa Vattnes Bryngeirsdóttir and Sara Jónsdóttir. Photos/Stefán Karlsson
A charming Bistro at “world’s end”
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In Árneshreppur, Iceland’s most sparsely populated district, one will find the charming bistro Kaffi Norðurfjörður. The restaurant is run by two childhood friends and their families.
rneshreppur is Iceland’s most sparsely populated district, with a populati on of 53 people. It is located in the remote Strandir region, on the northern part of the wondrous Westfjords, and is home to the tiny fishing village of Norður fjörður, as well as to Kaffi Norðurfjörður, a small bistro located at the town’s harbour. The bistro is run by childhood friends Lovísa Vattnes Bryngeirsdóttir and Sara Jónsdóttir. The two are well-versed in catering and the culinary industry: Sara has worked in the business since her teenage years, while Lovísa, a sous chef, used to run her own restaurant in Luxembourg. “We’ve always wanted to run a restaurant together, but we didn’t want to do it in Reykja vík because we wanted to be able to chat with our guests and respond to their every need. So, when this opportunity presented itself, we jumped at the chance,” Lovísa explains enthusi astically. “We’re very excited about starting this adventure. The area is just so remarkably beauti ful and it’s wonderful to sit in the café and watch the small boats come and go.”
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The team Sara (left) and Lovísa.
And she’s right. The bistro’s surroundings are something else entirely. The lively harbour teems with small boats during the summer; the surrounding mountain range makes an impress ive backdrop, and across the fjord lies Trékyllis vík cove, notorious for being the spot where twenty-one people were executed for practicing magic in the 17th century.
three years. The twosome have spent the past weeks preparing for the summer season, getting to know their new neighbours, and creating the bistro’s menu, which Lovísa says will focus on locally sourced produce. “Our menu will consist mainly of locally sourc ed fish and lamb and is inspired by traditional, Icelandic cuisine. We also spent much time per fecting our seafood soup—I highly recommend it to anyone dropping by for lunch.” She adds, “I can’t forget to mention that we’ll have a wide selection of home-made cakes and sweets too.” The pair will be joined by their partners, children, and siblings, who will be staying with them in Norðurfjörður this summer and will all lend a helping hand in running the dining spot. “We can’t wait for summer to start. All of us are extremely excited to take on the task of running this lovely, little bistro in this beautiful, little village,” she concludes with a smile .– SM
The perfect seafood soup Lovísa and Sara will run the bistro, which is only open for three months each year, for the next
Visit: nordurfjordur.is
Welcome to Akranes „The fifth most iconic and picturesque lighthouses in the world” Travelfreak 2013
„The third most beautiful lighthouses in the world“ Mos ingenieros 2013
www.visitakranes.is / www.akranes.is You find us on Twitter and Facebook
Lookout
All we hear is:
Radio Iceland Radio Iceland is a brand-spanking new, all-English-speaking radio station in Iceland. While the station broadcasts all the latest news and happenings in English, all the music is Icelandic (with a few exceptions). Among Radio Iceland’s many DJs is Englishman Smutty Smiff, a rockabilly bassist who played in the Rockats and used to host two programmes on radio station X-ið 977 before joining Radio Iceland. You can listen to Radio Iceland online and on the radio all around the country (with some minor shadow areas). Tune in to Radio Iceland here: FM 89.1 – Reykjavík FM 87.7 – Akureyri FM 89.9 – South coast (Háfell and Jórvík) FM 91.7 – South coast (Hnjúkar)
Rockat Smutty Smiff is one of Radio Iceland’s many DJs. The station is all-English-speaking and plays only Icelandic music. Photo/Valli
Ready to go! Retail and rental store Gangleri Outfitters carries pretty much everything and anything one could need for an outdoor adventure in Iceland’s stunning landscape.
Vaidas Valentukevicius “It looks like more and more people are becoming interested in trying out camping and other outdoor activities during winter months.”
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ave you ever arrived at your destination and realised to your horror that you forgot some thing important at home? Well, retail and rental store Gangleri Outfitters will come to the rescue of any forgetful hiker,
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at least when it comes to outdoor or camping gear. The store, located at Hverfisgata 82, opened in 2013, on Iceland’s national holiday, June 17th, and is owned and run by nature-lover Vaidas Valentukevicius. Gangleri carries pretty much every thing and anything one could need for an outdoor adventure in Ice land’s stunning landscape: tents, hiking equipment, clothing, and cooking utensils. And so far, business has been booming. “Summers are crazy busy, while winters are slower, but it looks like more and more people are
becoming interested in trying out camping and other outdoor activities during winter months. The shop is still growing and we’re always expanding our product range,” Vaidas explains. The shop’s name, Gangleri, comes from old Norse mythology, and means wanderer, or way-weary, or simply, someone who walks. It’s one of the more than two hundred names in the Prose Edda for Óðinn, the chief god of the old, Norse religion, Ásatrú. According to Vaidas, his cust omers have different levels of experience and knowledge when it comes to
outdoor activities. Most of them, he says, know what they need for their trip but don’t use such gear back home. So they would rather rent the equipment than buy it. “Camping gear is very popular during summer. In winter, it´s either warm clothing or winter mountaineering gear,” he says. When asked whet her he has any advice for those planning to hike in Ice land this summer, he says, “Do your research and plan well before going to the mountains, this will make your trip safer and more enjoyable. All Kitted Out Retail and rental store Gangleri Outfitters carries pretty much everything and anything one could need for an outdoor adventure in Iceland.
Check www.safetravel.is for tips and equipment lists. Also, register your travel plan on this website.” Opening hours: Weekdays: 10–19 , weekends: 11–17.
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Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour
the warmth of Iceland Varma is dedicated to maintaining Icelandic tradition in developing, designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling.
Varma is available in various tourist shops around Iceland
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Welcome to the Pompeii of the North The Eldheimar museum in the Westman Islands celebrated its first anniversary on May 23rd.
The 1973 Eruption The entire population of Heimaey island had to evacuate their homes and move to mainland Iceland. Will Perry/Reykjavik Museum of Photagraphy
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he Eldheimar museum in the West man Islands, South Iceland, celebrat ed its first anniversary on May 23rd. The centre focuses on the events of the 1973 eruption in Heimaey island and the Surtsey eruption in 1963. The museum became an instant hit and welcomed 26,000 guests during its first year. The 1973 eruption forced the entire population of Heimaey island to evacuate their homes and set sail to mainland Iceland. A large number of buildings were buried under lava and ash, many were completely destroyed but others were later unearthed and saved. One of the excavated houses is the museum’s main attraction. After being submerged under ash
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The centre focuses on the event of the 1973 eruption in Heimaey island and the Surtsey eruption in 1963.
for over forty years, the house bears silent witness to the disaster that struck the town in 1973: a towel still hangs on a hook by the bathroom sink, and the furniture is still in place, although damaged by the ash. The Surtsey Visitor Centre opened as a part of Eldheimar on November 14th last year. Surtsey Island is the southernmost point of Iceland and was formed in a volcanic eruption which began 130 metres below sea level and reached the surface on November 14th 1963. The island is listed as a natural wonder on the UNESCO World Heritage list. – SM
See more: www.eldheimar.is
Great collection, good prices
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The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE
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Haunted by the in Grey Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Located on the shore of the magnificent glacial lake Hvítárvatn, this old travel lodge is believed to be haunted by a young woman dressed in grey. The Icelandic Touring Association built the lodge in 1930. It stands close to some old farm ruins, with Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier, dominating the horizon to the north. Although difficult to understand today, people used to live year-round in this far-off place in the central highlands where winter storms can rage relentlessly for days. The basis for farming, and existence in this harsh area, was the wetlands around the lodge, forming a green oasis during the summer months. If you are afraid of ghosts, avoid the room with the bunk bed, which is frequented by the girl in grey. - jk
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Lookout highlights ahead
Music and family fun The music festival Sumarmölin á Drangsnesi takes place for the third time this year in the small fishing village of Drangsnes in the beautiful Strandir region. Many of Iceland’s finest musicians and bands are set to perform at the event. Tickets will be sold at the town’s assembly hall, Baldur, where the concerts will take place. When: Saturday, June 13
Run around Lake Mývatn The annual Mývatn Marathon will take you around the gorgeous Lake Mývatn and its vicinity. The marathon also ends at the Nature Baths, meaning participants can regain their strength byunwinding in the warm, blue waters after the run. When: Saturday, June 6 Registration: hlaup.is
Fire up the barbie The annual BBQ festival Kótelettan (Lamb chop) is celebrated for the sixth time this summer. The festival is dedicated to barbecuing and music, two Icelandic obsessions, and many of Iceland’s most popular bands will perform at the event— among them are Sálin, AmabAdamA, Páll Óskar, Jónas & ritvélarnar, and SSSól. When: June 12-14. Tickets can be bought through tix.is Where: Selfoss
Juicy rhubarb! Rababarahátíð, the annual rhubarb festival in Reykholt, is a pleasant combination of a county fair and a farmers market. Local farmers gather to sell their products and compete to see who makes the best product containing home-grown rhubarb. When: Reykholt When: June 20th. The festival begins at 1 pm.
Ólafía at Reykjavík Ink One of the local tattoo artists participating in the convention. Photo/ Ómar Sverrisson
Ink in Reykjavík
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f ink is your thing then you should try to be in Reykjavík during the first weekend in June when the annual Icelandic Tattoo Convention will kick off for the 10th consecutive year. Many of Iceland’s best tattoo artists will take part in the convention and more than twenty of their foreign counter parts will join them from abroad. As before, the convention is hosted by the local tattoo parlour Reykjavík Ink and the rock dive Bar 11 (address: Hverfisgata 18, 101 Reykjavík). The convention has been expanding from year to year and will now take place at the beautiful old theater Gamla bíó, a stone’s throw from Bar 11 in downtown Reykjavík.
See more: The Icelandic Tattoo Convention’s official Facebook page. When: June 5–7.
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A monster of a festival Hallormsstaðarskógur, Iceland’s largest forest, is the location of an annual family festival called the ‘Great Forest Day’. The fair features barbecues, live entertainment, and of course, gorgeous surroundings, as the forest is located next to the amazing Lake Lagarfljót, home to the Lagarfljótsormur, a mysterious Icelandic lake monster similar to the Loch Ness monster. When: June 20th Information: www.east.is
The Icelandic National Day June 17th is the Icelandic National Day and a public holi day. The Republic of Iceland was founded on the 17th of June in 1944, as a fully independent nation, after being under Nor wegian and then Danish rule from 1262. The day is celebrated all across the country. In Reykjavík, the capital, church bells are rung all over town at 10 am, and at 11:10 am, a formal ceremony takes place in front of the Parliament building at Austurvöllur square. A schedule of events is available at www.17juni.is, and everyone should be able to find something to their liking, whether it be circus lessons, participating in a parade, or enjoying a variety of musical events under the (hopefully) clear sky.
Check: www.17juni.is
GPS: 64°19,186N 22°02,654W
Akranes Museum Centre
At the Museum Centre you will find the Akranes Folk Museum, Iceland’s Sports Museum and the Mineral Kingdom. In the centre there are also various other exhibitions, a café and shop, a fun outdoor area, and a tourist information centre.
Visit Ic e l a n dm ag .c o m
Your source for daily news from Iceland, local tips & expertise www.icelandmag.com Twitter @IcelandMag Instagram @Iceland Mag Facebook Iceland Magazine
Address Garðar, 300 Akranes / Tel.: (+354) 431 1255 & (+354) 431 5566 Email: museum@museum.is Opening Hours Summer: 10.00-17.00 (10-5pm) Winter: 13.00-17.00 (1-5pm) Admission: see www.museum.is
by the sea
and a delicios
at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri
Spör ehf.
At the seashore the giant lobster makes appointments with mermaids and landlubbers. He waves his large claws, attracting those desiring to be in the company of starfish and lumpfish. > Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík Reykjavík Eyrarbakki
Stokkseyri
Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550 Fax. +354 483 1545 · info@fjorubordid.is · www.fjorubordid.is
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Lookout Highlights ahead
Dancing in the Midnight Sun
How about celebrating the longest day of the year and Iceland’s endless daylight by attending an outdoor music festival?
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ecret Solstice features over one hundr ed local and international artists. From Iceland we have GusGus, Gísli Pálmi, and Ham to name just a few, and flying in are Wu-Tang Clan, FKA Twiggs, Kelis, The Wailers, and more. The theme for the music festival is Norse Mythology. Why? During the olden days, the summer solstice was a time of bounty in the lives of Nordic nations and a cause for celebration. Norse mythology and the old religion commonly known as Ásatrú are deeply rooted in Icelandic culture and nature symbolism. The festival takes place in Reykjavík’s Laugar dalur valley, which is home to the city’s main sporting facilities, one of Iceland’s largest swimming pools, a camping ground, and a botanical garden. And it’s all just a 20-minute walk from the city centre. See more: www.secretsolstice.is When: June 19–21
Creating a Viking world From last year’s preparations for the three-day music festival. Photo/GVA
Let those engines roar Bíladagar is one of the largest annual motor sports events held in Iceland. The fair is organised by the Akureyri Car Club in North Iceland.
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íladagar, or Car Days, is the Akureyri Car Club’s biggest event, with thousands of spectators and motor-heads in attendance each year. The event features auto shows, a drag race, mud bogging, and the Akureyri Car Club Formula off-road race. For those who’d like to stay close to the action during the six-day-long event, the club runs a camping facility nearby. In between motor events, guests can enjoy a bit of peace and quiet by visiting the Akureyri Botanic Garden, or stroll through Listagil, the Art Ravine, which is full of interesting museums. You can also visit the picturesque Akureyri Church, designed by State Architect Guðjón Samúelsson in 1940, or take a leisurely drive along the gorgeous Eyjafjörður fjord, with a pit stop for the home-made ice-cream sold at Holtasel farm. Drive crazy Bíladagar is one of the largest annual motor sports events held in Iceland, attended by thousands of spectators and motor-heads each year. Photo/Auðunn Níelsson
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Where: Akureyri When: June 16-21
Westman Islands promotion
Let Viking Tours Show You Around The Vestmannaeyjar islands (Westman Islands), off the south coast of Iceland, are famous for their breathtaking landscape, diverse birdlife and the spectacular eruption that occured in 1973.
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he 15 islands and about 30 skerries, lie in Iceland’s southern volcanic zone and have been formed by eruptions over the past 10,000 to 12,000 years. The largest island is called Heimaey (13.4 km2, 5.2 mi2) and is the only one that is populated (4.200 inhabitants). The name of the town is Vestmannaeyjar. The eruption started on
January 23 1973 without any sign of warning. It forced a major emergency evacuation of the entire population to mainland Iceland. Number of buildings were buried under lava and ash. Numerous were destroyed but many were also later dug out and saved. The volcano, Eldfell, is literally on the outskirts of the town. Viking Tours is the largest and most experinc ed travel company in the islands. Two of its most
popular tours are a fantastic bus ride around Heimaey, with a local guide explaining the island’s history and telling his personal tale of the 1973 eruption, and great boat tour around the island with a saxophone-playing captain.
See more: www.vikingtours.is Tel: (+354) 488 4884
welcome to
eldheimar pompei of the North
20 min. flight from Reykjavík www.ernir.is | 30 min. ferry from Landeyjahöfn www.herjolfur.is
Velkomin til Vestmannaeyja More info: (+354) 488-2700 | eldheimar@vestmannaeyjar.is | www.eldheimar.is Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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The writer Arnaldur Indriðason was awarded the Icelandic Export Award in May.
Photo/Valli
Iceland‘s best export product A good book can be the best travel companion – and a countries best export product!
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celandic author Arnaldur Indriðason was awarded the Icelandic Export Award by president Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson in May. The writer says Icelandic authors have become quite sought after abroad, saying: “Now seems to be our time. I think that literature is Iceland’s best export product and this award serves as motivation for all Icelandic writers to keep up the good work,” he said. Arnaldur is best known for his crime novels, most of which centre around the brilliant yet dysfunctional detective Erlendur. He has received many literary awards over the years, including the Glass Key award, a literature prize for the best Nordic crime novel, in 2002 and 2003, the Gold Dagger Award in 2005, and the RBA International Prize for Crime Writing in 2013.
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“I think that literature is Iceland’s best export product and this award serves as motivation for all Icelandic writers to keep up the good work.”
Other popular Icelandic authors whose work has been translated into English (and other languages) are Sjón, Yrsa Sigurðardóttir, Steinunn Sigurðardóttir, and of course Iceland’s only Nobel laureate, Halldór Laxness.
The Ambassador Whale Watching promotion
Whale watching:
Day or night “Pristine waters, abundant wildlife, and spectacular beauty”—certainly not a bad start to a whale watching tour with Ambassador Whale Watching in Akureyri, Iceland’s capital of the North.
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kureyri is the second-largest urban area in Iceland and the fourth-larg est municipality, and it’s home to just under 20,000 people. People from Akureyri (Icelandic: Akureyringar) will convince you that the weather in Akureyri is always good, and they’re not too far off. Due to the town’s geographical location, its climate is relatively warm when compared to other areas of Iceland. Akureyri’s ice-free harbour is also well-suited for whale watching. The Ambassador Whale Watching boat will ensure that you feel safe while scouting the waters for whales as it’s a German-built police vessel equipped with six different viewing platforms—custom built for whale watching. The world’s largest animal The Ambassador leaves from Torfunesbryggja Harbour in the heart of Akureyri. In the early 21st century, the fishing industry became an important source of revenue in the town, and Torfunesbryggja harbour is only one of the town’s ten ports that line the coast. The whalewatching spectacle takes approximately three hours. The whales you may encounter include
the white-beaked dolphin, the mink whale, and the world’s largest animal: the blue whale. The Ambassador departs from the harbour a couple of times a day from May through October. The guides on board can inform visitors about any thing and everything that has to do with the surrounding area: from folklore to the fjord’s ecosystem, from history to geology. Whale watching with the Ambassador is so much more than just seeing whales. The never-ending daylight tour Speaking of more than “just seeing whales,” the Ambassador offers a midnight sun cruise that
island. You’ll still be able to catch glimpses of whales, birds, and other wildlife, as you sail through the night in complete relaxation and awe. If the midnight sun has come and gone during your visit to the North of Iceland, you needn’t worry. The Ambassador offers an equally spectacular tour with no sun, but a sky lit up by the Northern lights. As many know, the intensity of the Aurora Borealis activity is highest in the Arctic, making the North of Iceland, which happens to stretch into the Arctic, a prime spot for a natural light show. Whatever your preference may be, the Ambas sador is sure to meet and exceed your
The Ambassador Whale Watching boat will ensure that you feel safe while scouting the waters for whales as it’s a German-built police vessel equipped with six different viewing platforms— custom built for whale watching. shouldn’t be missed. Every Icelander’s favourite time of year is high summer, when the sun never sets and the days seem to (and really do) last forever. With Ambassador, you can cash in on this never-ending daylight by enjoying a cruise through Eyjafjörður fjord and around Hrísey
expectations. The top deck of the vessel offers a 360° panoramic view, the indoor cabin is heated and includes toilet facilities, and should you get hungry while sailing, you can choose from a selection of snacks and beverages available on board. Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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Do try this at home Skyr-making in Iceland dates all the way back to 9th century.
Make your own skyr! Skyr’s popularity is on the rise—locally and internationally. Chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason, author of the cookbook North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland, was kind enough to teach us how to make thick, rich, delicious homemade skyr.
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Skyr is a traditional Icelandic dairy product and, while resembling yogurt, it is, correctly speaking, a cheese. The product is made from skim milk after the cream has been removed. The milk is then warmed with live cultures from previous batches of skyr and strained from the whey after it has thickened. Skyr-making dates all the way back to the 9th century. Traditionally skyr was served with cream and brown sugar, but nowadays it’s increasingly used as a key ingredient for cheese cakes, crème brulée (called skyr brulée), and smoothies.
Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
Skyr is a tra ditional Ice landic dairy product and, while resemb ling yogurt, it is, correctly speaking, a cheese.
Gunnar Karl Gíslason, head chef and owner of Dill Restaurant and author of the cookbook North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland, is known to be a rather unorthodox chef. His style of cooking started out as “new Nordic” cuisine but has evolved into more traditional Icelandic cuisine. “We use skyr a great deal at Dill Restaurant. Skyr is most commonly used in desserts or cold sauces, but recently we’ve begun to experiment with adding skyr to warm dishes too,” Gunnar Karl explains. When making skyr at home, milk is warmed with live cultures from previous batches,
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Inside the Volcano Take part in a great adventure. Descend 120 metres into a volcano and explore an underground world.
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Standing inside a volcano is a strangely emotional experience.
- The Guardian
One of twenty places in the world you must see before you die.
- CNN
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at: InsideTheVolcano.com Price: ISK 39,000 per person
More info at InsideTheVolcano.com
For the first time in history, travelers have the opportunity to see what a volcano looks like on the inside. Descend into a 4.000 year old magma chamber and experience a new underground world. • Several departures a day • Maximum 15 people in each tour • Duration: 5-6 hours • Minimum age: 12 years • Fitness level needed: Moderate. knowledge of hiking or climbing is required No knowledge of hiking or climbing is required.
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The chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason Skyr – how to make your own!
a method similar to that of making sourdough bread. It’s easy enough; you only have to mix milk with a dollop of store-bought skyr which contains live cultures and heat it up. For those who cannot buy skyr at their local supermarket, Gunnar Karl recommends using an age-old method. “Back in the old days, people would pour skimmed milk into a container and leave it outside until the bacteria needed to make the skyr had begun to form. Some people would even experiment by leaving the milk in different places; down by the seashore, in little hollows, or high up on heaths, to see which produced the best bacteria. One could easily do the same today— that would be real skyr-making.” Asked whether there is a big difference in taste between store-bought skyr and homemade skyr, Gunnar Karl says the two are hardly comparable. “It depends on the brand of store-bought skyr, but many brands are hardly skyr anymore. The recipe has been altered so much and the product is chock full of sugar and artificial flavours.”
The chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason, head chef and owner of Dill Restaurant and the pizzeria Hverfisgata 12, and author of the cookbook North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland, is known to be a rather unorthodox chef. Photo/Valli
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Back in the old days, people would pour whey into a container and leave it outside until the bacteria needed to make the skyr had begun to form.
Skyr recipe You’ll need: 1 litre skimmed milk and a tablespoon of regular skyr (preferably organic). First make the skyr. In a nonstick saucepan, heat the milk over a low heat to 95C/200F and maintain this temperature for 10 minutes. It’s crucial to keep the temperature steady, if it fluctuates too much then the skyr will either scorch or not set properly. Stir the milk throughout this process to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside at room temperature. Let it cool to 39C/102F. It takes over an hour to heat the milk and almost
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30 minutes for it to cool to room temperature. Cover with a kitchen towel and let the milk stand at room temperature for 12-15 hours (or at most 24 hours), until it has thickened to the consistency of Greek yoghurt and the curds have separated from the whey.
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At this point, you can either stir the whey into the skyr to thin it, or drain it through cheesecloth for a thicker consistency. Cover tightly and refrigerate until chilled. The skyr, either thinned with the whey or strained, will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week. The whey will keep for the same length of time in an airtight container – delicious in baked goods!
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LOFTIÐ // AusTursTræTI 9 // secOnd FLOOr // FAcebOOk.cOm/LOFTIdbAr
PRIMO RISTORANTE Authentic Italian Restaurant in Downtown Reykjavík
There is a taste of sun in Italian food. And not only the taste of sun, it’s also a taste of the warm soil, the four seasons, culture. Here, in an old house on Bankastræti in Reykjavík, we invite you to experience Italian cuisine with superb ingredients that make the sun shine even brighter in your heart. Enjoy.
ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI 1, ReykjavIk facebook.com/primoreykjavik Tel: +354 553 4200
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Heading for the highlands The central highlands are home to many of Iceland’s most magnificent natural wonders.
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he central high lands are home to many of Iceland’s most magnificent natural wonders. The visiting win dow is short during the summer, however, as most mountain roads remain closed until late June and, in some places, late July. This is due to the abundance of snow that turns the roads into muddy quagmires when it thaws out in the spring. When the roads open, you will need at least a 4WD car to navi gate through the gravel and mud. For many routes, only a modified Jeep will do the job, as you have
to be able to cross over rivers that cut through the mountain roads. Please note that Icelandic law prohibits off-road driving. The natural landscape of the central highlands is very sensitive and
off-road driving can cause dam age that would take decades to heal. Keep an eye out for roads marked F. They are unpaved tracks that may only be driven in vehicles with four-wheel drive.
A beast of a waterfall The magnificent waterfall Dettifoss is not just the most powerful water fall in Iceland, but in all of Europe. This majestic beast of a waterfall is 45 meters (148 ft) high and 100 meters (328 ft) wide. The hiking trail down to the falls from the parking lot is quite rough—be careful! Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
How to get there: Route 1 to road 864 (the gravel road is OK for all types of cars). Usually opens in late May.
Dipping into Hell In the primal area around the Askja volcano, you can almost see the forces of nature still at work. The 11 square kilometer (4.2 sq mi) crater was created by the collapse of land following an enormous volcanic eruption in 1875—and the volcano is still very active. Its latest eruption was back in 1961. The lake in the crater is called Lake Askja and it’s Iceland’s second-deepest lake at a depth of 217 meters (712 ft). Just a stone’s throw from the lake is the explosion crater Víti (or ‘hell’ in English), a popular bathing place for hikers. The crater is about 8 meters (26 ft.) deep, and the water has a high sulfur content. The water temperature can measure anywhere from 20°C to 60°C (68°F to 140°F), so be careful not to burn yourself. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
How to get there: Route 1 to road F88 (two rivers to cross), then road F894 to Askja’s parking lot. Usually opens in late June.
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Hiking through the fresh Holuhraun lava field The new Holuhraun lava field is expected to be a popular tourist destination this summer. To get there, however, is quite a chal lenge, as the eruption site is in the central highlands—about as far as you can get from inhabited areas in Iceland. The eruption was declared over on February 28th, after lasting 181 days. The volcanic fissure spewed up lava that now covers an area of 85 square kilometers (32.8 sq mi). Park rangers from Vatnajökull National Park are patrolling the area and have marked easily accessible viewpoints outside the perimeter of the eruption site. They plan to set out a marked hiking path through the vast, new lava field, which we believe will instantly become one of the most exciting trails in the country. Photo/Gísli Gíslason, helicopter.is
How to get there: Route 1 to road F88 (two rivers to cross), then road F910 (multiple streams and rivers). The last part of the route usually opens in late July.
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Remains of Iceland’s most notorious volcanic eruption Lakagígar (Laki craters) is a 25 km (15.5 mi) long row of 135 craters west of Vatnajökull glacier, formed during the biggest volcanic eruption recorded after Iceland’s settlement. The eruption began in June 1783 and lasted eight months, spewing up 15 cubic kilometers of lava, poisonous ash, and gases that spread over the northern hemisphere, ruining crops and causing famine as far away as Europe. One of the deadliest eruptions in the earth’s history, it came close to making Iceland uninhabitable, with lava engulfing villages and farms, and ash and volcanic gases bringing misery all over the island. Today the Lakagígar lava field covers approximately 600 sq km (232 sq mi). Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
How to get there: Route 1 to road 206, then road F206. Usually opens in June.
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Iceland’s most beautiful lake Lake Langisjór is Iceland’s most beautiful lake, end of discussion. Enclosed by Tungnárfjöll mountains to the west and Fögrufjöll mountains to the east, this pristine 20 km long and 2 km wide lake is a stunning place. The road takes you to Langisjór’s south end, and on a clear day you can see Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull, dominating the horizon on the opposite end. The black and grey Tungnárfjöll mountains form an uncompromising frame to the west. On the east side, the mind-blowing, beautiful Fögrufjöll mountains, clad with moss from top to bottom, rise almost neon green from the blue water. Langisjór is 640 meters above sea level. At its southern end stands Sveinstindur peak (1090 m). Do take the relatively easy hike to the top if you visit the area. The view is absolutely spectacular. During the summer it’s possible to take kayaking trips on Langisjór and also to do some angling. Photo/Páll Stefánsson
How to get there: Route 1 to road F208, then road F235 (streams and rivers to cross). Usually opens in late June or early July.
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Highland oasis Landmannalaugar is a spectacular oasis with a natural geothermal bathing pool flanked by steep black lava fields. The region is home to a number of unusual geological elements, like silica-rich igneous volcanic rock mountains and lava fields as far as the eye can see. Whether you’re an experienced hiker, or you simply wish to enjoy natural beauty, a hike in the area is sure to bring a new experience to your life. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
How to get there: Route 1 to road F208. Usually opens in late June or early July.
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4 things to keep in mind when crossing rivers
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When crossing glacial rivers, be sure to drive very slowly and never switch gears while in the water. The volume of the water flow in glacial rivers is usually less in the morning, making it the safest time to cross.
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On warm summer days, the volume of water can increase substantially. When in doubt about whether to cross or not, a good rule to follow is: Do not drive into rivers that you would not attempt to wade into.
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The easiest place to cross is often marked. Another warning: The deepest part of the river is usually where the water surface is calmest.
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The best way to cross a river is to follow the stream diagonally downwards, to go with the flow!
ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS ENN 73826 03/15
www.n1.is
facebook.com/enneinn
Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland Your convenient one-stop on your journey
While you might stop for fuel, you can stay for the food, travel necessities, books and magazines, or grab a cup of coffee before heading out again.
To find your nearest location and plan your trip, log on to www.n1.is/locations
N1 operates a network of 95 locations all around Iceland. That means you’re never far away from the energy you need for your journey.
Keep moving
Hafnarbraut 42 • Höfn • Sími: +354 478 2600 • www.kaffihorn.is • kaffihornid@eldhorn.is Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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Sigríður Sigurjónsdóttir is the owner of Spark Design, the only design gallery in Reykjavík and a former professor of product design at the Iceland Academy of Arts.
1 Float by Unnur Valdís Kristjánsdóttir “The Float cap is a great project that comes out of Iceland’s rich bathing culture. I have always considered it strange that we have not seen more innovation connected to the nation’s strong relationship with the year-round bathing and swimming culture due to the abundance of our geothermal water. The float cap truly adds a new dimension to that experience.” Float is available in 3 sizes: small, medium and large. There are regular floating sessions in the capital area and around Iceland. See events on Float’s Facebook page.
2 The Nordic House in Reykjavík by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. “This is my favourite building in Reykjavík— the building in general but especially the library. The light in there is magnificent. It’s a wonderful place to visit and stay for a while.”
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We asked four renowned connoisseurs and experts to nominate exceptional examples of design in Iceland. The scope was free except that at least one item on the list should be an ideal souvenir from Iceland and could therefore not be too big to fit into a suitcase.
The Silent Village Collection by Brynjar Sigurðarson “This great furniture collection by Brynjar was inspired by the craft of a 70-year-old shark hunter and fisherman living in Vopnafjörður fjord, East Iceland. Brynjar spent a few weeks with him while he was preparing nets for the lumpfish season, and watched him, day after day, tying knots using a netting needle and a nylon string. It’s fantastic to see how Brynjar incorporated the technique into his furniture design.”
4 Urban Shape posters by Icelandbased Italian architect Paolo Gianfrancesco. “It’s such a joy to have these graphic maps around you. They inspire you to never stop travelling. Cities are so great. Each has its own rhythm and balance. And you can sense their atmosphere by studying the maps. Just looking at Paolo’s map makes me dream of going to Athens.” The Urban Shape series of graphic maps covers all the European capitals and seven cities in North America.
5 Omnom Chocolate by Omnom “The Omnom chocolate is both delicious and beautifully presented. There is concern for every detail of creation and promotion. It’s a great project where everything comes perfectly together.”
“This great furniture collection by Brynjar was inspired by the craft of a 70-yearold shark hunter and fisherman living in Vopnafjörður fjord, East Iceland.
Photos/Alejandra Duarte, courtesy of Galerie Kreo
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Eyjólfur Pálsson is the owner of Reykjavík’s best furniture and design store, Epal, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year.
1 Shorebirds by Sigurjón Pálsson “The Shorebirds by designer Sigurjón Pálsson came first to my mind. Those solid oak birds with steel legs are so simple and easily understandable in their beauty. It must be the dream of all designers to create something that gets into production and then becomes a commercial success. Sigurjón’s birds did.” The Shorebirds are produced by Normann Copenhagen.
2 Omnom Chocolate by Omnom “Outstanding packaging, excellent taste. The Omnom chocolate is food design at the very top level.”
3 Fuzzy foot-stool by Sigurður Már Helgason “An Icelandic design classic made out of local materials. Every stool is handcrafted and the seat is covered with Icelandic sheepskin, which comes in a myriad of colours and patterns. The Fuzzy foot-stool has been around for more than 40 years, but its sale took off spectacularly about 10 years ago.”
4 Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Centre “Harpa has become a symbol for Reykjavík, not least because of its fantastic south glass façade that was designed by artist Ólafur Elíasson and architect Einar Þorsteinn Ásgeirsson. It is a unique work of art.” The main designers of the Harpa concert hall and conference centre are the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects collaborating with the Icelandic firm Batteríið Architects.
5 Bessi stackable chair by Erla Sólveig Óskarsdóttir “The Bessi chair is the best and most beautiful chair that has come out of Iceland in the last 15 years. You can see this great stackable chair all around the Nordic countries.” Bessi is available in several types of wood and many colours, either fully upholstered or partially upholstered in fabric or leather. The frame is either mirror-chromed or satin-chromed steel.
“The Bessi chair is the best and most beautiful chair that has come out of Iceland in the last 15 years. “
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Iceland
Sigríður Heimisdóttir, product designer.
1 Perfumes by Andrea Maack “I love the perfumes from Andrea Maack. I love the concept behind them, and I love their scent.”
1 66N outddor clothing “The outdoor clothing from the Icelandic clothing brand 66 North is timeless, smart, and durable.”
1 Jewelry By Guðbjörg kristín ingvarsdóttir “Guðbjörg, a jeweller who owns and runs the boutique Aurum in Bankastræti, is a genius. Her pieces always have a reference to Icelandic nature without it ever feeling repetitive.”
1 Varma sherling products by Sigríður Heimisdóttir “The shearling products I designed for Varma. The Icelandic sheepskin is one of the warmest materials I know, and also one of the most exciting materials I’ve worked with. It’s a shame what little use we make of it.”
1 Skepnusköpun - Something Fishy by Róshildur Jónsdóttir “The Skepnusköpun model kit, made from fish bones. It’s a fantastic idea, to use material that is normally discarded to challenge children of all ages to be creative and imaginative.”
It’s a fantastic idea, to use material that is normally discarded to challenge children of all ages to be creative and imaginative.”
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Ice
David Robertsson, architect, cyclist, and owner of bicycle store Kría, located in Grandagarður 7
1 Elliðaárdalur valley pedestrian and cycle bridge by architects Sigríður Magnúsdóttir & Hans-olav Andersen “The bridge in Elliðarárdalur connects the coast line creating a useful shortcut and an infinitely more pleasurable way of travelling in an otherwise industrial area. The steel structure of two pyramids that support the bridge creates a striking yet simple sculptural presence within the landscape, and a reminder that sometimes ‘less is more’.”
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“Siggi Eggertsson’s art has an easily identifiable style.
Art by siggi eggertsson “Siggi Eggertsson’s art has an easily identifiable style, often breaking down scenes and portraits to a restricted palette of colours and shapes that vary from piece to piece in complexity. The Icelandic ‘Celebration’ series are particularly joyful renditions.”
3 Harpa concert hall by Henning Larsen Architects, Batteríið Architects, artist Ólafur Elíasson and architect Einar Þorsteinn Ásgeirsson “The Harpa Concert Hall. While the Hallgrimskirkja church that reigns atop Reykjavik is still an unmistakable landmark, it is Harpa that has brought life to the city. The building is a magnificent awe-inspiring cavern of worship to the gods of music that also performs many other roles. Completed in controversial circumstances after the economic crash of 2008, it also symbolises triumph over this time of adversity.”
4 The búllan building by architect Einar sveinsson “The little house at Geirsgata 1, created by Einar Sveinsson. On the other end of the architectural scale, this small grey building, now housing Tommi’s Burger Joint, was built in 1945 to serve as a café for harbour workers. Dwarfed in stature by surrounding buildings, and by the ships being repainted in the dry dock, its presence far outweighs its scale.”
5 Farmers Market trouser by Bergþóra Guðnadóttir “Farmers Market trousers—I believe the design originally came about so that the designer’s husband, a musician, would be comfortable when seated. The subtle pattern detail around the knees, the slim cut, and the variety of fabric available have made them a design classic suitable for almost any occasion. Once you wear them, you’ll never have to look for another pair of trousers again.”
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V i si t Ic e l a n dm ag .c om Your source for daily news from Iceland, local tips & expertise
www. icelandmag .com
T witter @ I celand M ag
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Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
Fish, Nature, Power In and around the thriving fishing town of Grindavík you will find various examples of what has characterised life in Iceland. At the town’s harbour, you will see fishing ships returning with their catch of the day. Just outside of town, you can visit a state-of-the-art geothermal power plant or feel the healing effects of the Blue Lagoon’s natural, silica-rich hot water on your skin. The nearby sea cliffs are packed with up to 60,000 bird couples of different species. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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The healing geothermal power The stark contrast between the neon blue water and the dark volcanic rocks is an awe-inspiring image that characterizes one of Iceland’s most popular tourist destinations - The Blue Lagoon. Steam rises around the facility like a smoke machine out of a movie and the sting of the neon blue water plays tricks with your mind because, at a toasty 38 degrees Celsius, a natural pool is not suppose to be this hot. Located just outside Grindavík, the geothermal power that is exerted around the area has been harbored for the enjoyment of tourists from all over the world.
Iceland’s oldest lighthouse Reykjanesviti lighthouse is an iconic historic structure, and few buildings in Iceland—or in the world—are as imposingly located. It was Iceland’s first lighthouse, and actually, there have been two versions of lighthouses with this name. The original s in 1887. The current version was built on safer ground in 1907 at Bæjarfell hill. Large steam clouds from geothermal fields at the bottom of the hill bring added drama to the surroundings.
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Fish, Nature, Power
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Brimketill lava rock pool
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Brimketill is a pool-shaped, lava rock formation that is located along the coast in Grindavik. While the beautiful pool-like structure is amazing to look at, there are some brave souls who decide to take the plunge and swim in the volcanic structure. The legend goes that a troll-like woman, named Oddný, once occupied the pool.
The Grindavík Harbor At the Grindavík town’s harbour you can see first-hand the heart of the Icelandic fishing industry, with numerous fishing ships entering and exiting the harbour on a daily basis. If you want to really submerge yourself into Iceland’s historically most important industry you can go behind the scenes and take a tour at the Stakkavík fish factory (address Bakkalág 15b) where you can see people at work and even get to taste some of the catch of the day. If you think that’s taking it too far then there is always Grindavik Harbour Café, where you can enjoy some seafood and a coffee, while taking in the scenery of the harbour’s surroundings.
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Not for the faint hearted
The ATV Quad biking tour through lava and black sand in Krýsuvík region is not for the faint-hearted. For the adventurous, it’s pure joy. The tour takes you up into mountains where you can enjoy a fantastic view over the Blue Lagoon, the island of Eldey, and other local landmarks.
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The beach Kirkjuvogsbás What happens when the cold water of the North Atlantic Ocean collides with a piping hot stream from a geothermal power plant? You get a perfect recipe for Icelandic relaxation on the beautiful beaches of Kirkjuvogsbás. Located not far from the Blue Lagoon and close to Reykjanesvirkjun power plant the beach has long been an undercover tourist destination for those willing to embark on an adventure. Make sure you stop by the beach to test out the water or simply to take in the breathtaking views.
Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
7 Bird watching at Hafnaberg Cliff For all of you bird enthusiasts out there, Hafnarberg cliff is a low, vertical cliff that is rich with a wide variety of flora and fauna inhabiting its slopes and its skies. Birds that can be seen at Hafnarberg include guillemots, kittiwakes, fulmars, razorbills, and many others. Sometimes seals and small whales can also be spotted a short distance off the coast. The cliff is located west of Grindavík, at the “heel” of the boot-shaped Reykjanes peninsula, in a convenient spot and can be easily accessed from the main road.
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art and Ever felt likeIcelandic a Viking? At Viking World you can board history? a real viking ship, the Icelander, that sailed from Iceland to Welcome to Duushús in New York in the year 2000. the heart of Reykjanesbær Also 4 other exhibitions only 5 minutes from Keflavík • Vikings of the North Atlantic int´l airport.
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• SettlementFree of Iceland – entrance Archaeological Findings – Maritime Center • Fate of the–Gods Norse Art –Exhibitions mythology – Design – Trails Heritage Center • Iceland Saga
in a m t‘l in m
VIKINGWondering WORLD about
Open daily 12:00 – 17:00 www.vikingaheimar.is
Ad m is
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Open Daily 12:00 – 17:0 tel. (+354) 421 3796
Fr
ee
duushus@reykjanesb
Open every day 12:00 - 17:00 / tel. (+354) 420-3245 Duusgata 2-8, 230 Reykjanesbær / duushus@reykjanesbaer.is
DUUSHÚS
Duusgata 2-8, 230 Reykjanesbær
Wondering about Icelandic art and history? Welcome to Duushús in the heart of Reykjanesbær only 5 minutes from Keflavík int‘l airport. - Maritime Center
Giganta in the Cave Stop by Giganta‘s Cave – she welcomes everyone especially kids
Op- Art Exhibitions en - Design 10 Center F- ree Heritage –1 en 7 ev tra er nce y da . y.
Duushús, lista- og menningarmiðstöð Reykjanesbæjar / Tel. 420-3245 / www.skessan.is
Fish, Nature, Power
The magnificent Krísuvíkurbjarg One of Iceland’s most stunning bird-watching locations is within one hour of the capital but is often overlooked. The sea cliffs Krýsuvíkurbjarg are a magnificent natural wonder, stretching several kilometers and rising vertically from the sea. During the summer months, the cliffs are packed with up to 60,000 bird couples of nine different species. There is a great hiking trail from the highway, easily navigated in half an hour.
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Gunnuhver geothermal area Gunnuhver’s mud pools that stretch over the southwestern part of the Reykjanes peninsula got their name from a female ghost, who fell into the spring over 400 years ago. Today, steam rises up from the natural boiling water in the mud pools, with the largest pool stretching over 20 meters wide inside a rim of mud. Located near the Reykjanes lighthouse, not far from the “Bridge Between Continents,” the Gunnuhver Hot Mud Springs offer a great place to enjoy the scenery of Iceland. From the safety of the bridge’s viewing ramp (not pictured, that’s the old not so safe one), you can look down to the spring and hear the bubbling noises of the boiling water.
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Fish, Nature, Power
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The Power Plant Earth Exhibition
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Exploring the history of Grindavík’s seafaring culture
Located at the main power house in Reykjanesvirkjun, the Power Plant Exhibition gives visitors a tour through the universe starting from the Big Bang up until present day. The interactive nature of the tour contributes to the popularity of the exhibition. Visitors can experience various inventions that have changed people’s lives, through the touch screens and displays found in the facility. Furthermore, the theme of energy, and more specifically geothermal energy, is explored for future generations, stimulating the mind and soul during this unique experience.
A stone’s throw from the habour is the Saltfisksetrið exhibition, which provides a great history of Grindavík’s seafaring culture, highlighting the town’s most prominent industry: the production of dried salted cod. The museum attracts tourists and local students alike, as the cod industry is summarized in an interesting and informative manner. The exhibition opened in 2002 and has slowly expanded its collection of pictures, which details the historical objects of the town. Located under 20 minutes from Keflavik airport, the Saltfish Museum will give you the opportunity to learn about an important part of Icelandic culture. Photo/Sigfús Eymundsson
The Merry Sailor promotion
In Honour of the Sea The fishermen and family fair Sjóarinn síkátí (The Merry Sailor) in Grindavík has become the town’s most popular event.
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he fair takes place between 5-7 of June, ending on Sjómannadagurinn, a day honouring the role that fishermen and their families have played in Icelandic history and is celebrated annually all over Iceland. The festival in Grindavík has grown from year to year and now features all sorts of interesting events and happenings for the whole family to participate in. The schedule is available on the festival’s website: www.grindavik.is/sjoarinnsikati A new camping site was opened in Grindavík in 2009. The site covers an area 13,500 square metres in size and is located at Austurvegur 26. It includes a
designated area for campervans and tent trailers, a paved parking lot and two play areas for children, equipped with swings, play castles and climbing nets. The service facilities feature cookers, showers, a laundry room and internet access. Individuals under the age of 18 are not allowed to camp without a person of legal age (during Sjóarinn síkáti the age rises to 20 years).
See more: www.visitgrindavik.is
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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
Iceland Mag explains
Wash thoroughly Guests have to wash without a swimsuit before entering Icelandic swimming pools. Photo/GVA
The Icelandic Geothermal Pool Culture Question: Do you really have to wash yourself without your swimsuit before entering Icelandic swimming pools?
If you are uncom fortable shower ing in an open space with other people, you can ask the staff if there is a private shower.
Q: What words or sentences should one try to learn before visiting Iceland? A: The level of English in Iceland is quite good, so international travellers can easily get by with only English. But should you wish to blend in with the locals, or simply show off your amazing linguistic skills, here are some useful words and sentences to learn.
Takk fyrir – Thank you Góðan dag – Good day, or Good morning (ð is pronounced like the ‘th’ in ‘this’)
Answer: Yes, and that’s one of the reasons why the pools in Iceland are so clean and free of harmful bacteria. After entering the dressing room, un dress and make your way to the showers (holding your towel and swim suit). If you are uncomfortable showering in an open space with other people, you can ask the staff if there is a private shower. Once you hit the showers you have to wash with soap and without your swimsuit. A poster from the National Centre for Hygiene, Food Control and Environmental Health is found in all changing rooms and has instructions in five languages on how to wash before entering the pool.
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Bless – Goodbye
Afsakið – Excuse me
(pronounced like the ‘bless’ in ‘God bless’ —and means blessing
Gott kvöld – Good evening
Góða nótt – Good night Áttu borð fyrir tvo? – Do you have a table for two?
Fyrirgefðu – Sorry Einn bjór, takk – One beer, please
(ó is pronounced like the ‘o’ in ‘so’)
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Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com
Beers To You Question: Why does Iceland have a special beer day? Answer: March 1st is a big day on Iceland’s drinking calendar. That’s the date when it became legal to buy beer in Iceland again in 1989, after having been off limits from 1915. When alcohol prohibition swept the world in the early 20th century all alcohol was banned in Iceland. The ban was lifted in 1935 but beer was left out. Why— while vine and strong alcohol was allowed—is still hard to comprehend. Every year since the ban was rescinded the “Beer Day” has been celebrated around the island. Out of Iceland’s top ten most popular beers, six are by local brewers and the top five are all Icelandic. The undisputed king is Víking Gylltur (Golden), a strong lager beer (5.6%), with more than double the market share of its brother Víking Lager, which comes in at number two. There is a monopoly on sales of alcohol in Iceland, so if you are thirsty head for one of the 48 state-run liquor stores , or to the next licensed restaurant. March 1st The Icelandic beer day.
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.
ask@icelandmag.com
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Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
Adventure Tour by SeaTours promotion
The freshest sushi you’ll ever try On the Unique Adventure Tour by SeaTours in Stykkishólmur village you get to taste scallops and sea urchin roe straight from the ocean.
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n the northern edge of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a beautiful village called Stykkishólmur. While the village is small, it’s rich in mythological history. Near the village, Helgafell mountain (“holy mountain”) is only 73 meters (240 ft) high, but a temple in honour of Thor, the old Norse God of Thunder, was built there by the first settlers. The mountain is also the site of the ancient burial place of an Icelandic heroine from the Sagas. For those not interested in mythology, a tour of the Library of Water, an installation in the town of Stykkisholmur by the American artist Roni Horn, is a must.
Stykkishólmur was and is a fishing town, settled in the 1550s because of its favourable position. Its location is still favourable today, and you can take your pick from a variety of boat trips on the Breiðafjörður bay. For the adventurous traveller, there is the Unique Adventure Tour provided by SeaTours. In the span of just two hours, you get to taste scallops and sea urchin roe straight from the ocean while catching a glimpse of puffins, cormorants, and the rugged beauty of basalt rock formations. The trip is recommended for adults and children alike. Many of the kids who have gone on the trip specifically mentioned how much they enjoyed the captain’s stories
about trolls and elves that are believed to have lived on the islands in the bay. Just make sure to book a day in advance to guarantee your spot. (Daily trips start May 9th and run through October 15th). For those less sushi-inclined, the ferry “Baldur” will carry you across Breiðafjörður Bay with a stopover at Flatey Island. The ferry can take you over to the Westfjords, which will shorten your driving route and enhance your Iceland experience. Baldur’s schedule and pricing is available online. And not to worry, you’ll still be served fresh food in a floating restaurant as you make your way to Flatey Island, or past it to Brjánslækur in the North.
Visit www.seatours.is
Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Icelandic
Windowweather Yes, that’s a thing in Icelandic. What does it mean? See below.
10 words and phrases in Icelandic that don’t exist in English Don’t’ get lost in translation. Here are some words in Icelandic that don’t have direct English translations, and a few of them have a cultural reference that you might even consider hilarious.
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Gluggaveður When the weather seems great, when you’re looking through a window from inside, but is actually cold and not so great when you step out without a jacket. Literally it means “window-weather.”
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Rúntur A popular driving route where cars drive slowly round and round, almost bumper-to-bumper. The verb “að rúnta” is the equivalent of doing a cruise night.
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Þórðargleði The feeling of pleasure derived from seeing someone fail or suffer misfortune. The German word is wellknown: “Schadenfreude” and is quite transparent, meaning “harm-joy.” The Icelandic word entered the language in the 20th century, and its source is the behaviour of an old mean-spirited farmer named Þórður. Literally it means “the joy of Þórður.”
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Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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Kviðmágur Guys (or girls), who have slept with the same person. Literally it means “abdomen-brother-in-law”.
Kviðmágur: Literally it means Álegg “abdomen- A synonym for everything you brotherdecide to put on the bread. Cheese, jam, in-law” ham, paté, or whatever. Used in the same
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way as “toppings” for pizza in English.
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Sólarfrí When staff gets an unexpected day or afternoon off to enjoy a particularly sunny and warm day. A reason to celebrate indeed. Literally it means “sun-vacation.”
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Þetta reddast Means “it will all work out okay,” but is often used when things look like they won’t work out at all. The phrase has been described as Iceland’s motto. It can be both an indication of the nation’s general lack of enthusiasm for planning ahead properly, but also, more positively, shows a rich appetite for an easy-going laissez-faire attitude.
Dalalæða A waist-deep fog that forms during calm nights after a warm and sunny day. Literally means a fog that sneaks up from the bottom of a valley, “valley-sneak.”
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Nenna The closest word in English would be “to bother,” but there is no proper equivalent. The word can denote the meaning of being too lazy to do something (ég nenni ekki—I can’t be bothered, or I don’t feel like it), but is also often used almost as “please”:
“nennir þú að loka hurðinni?” meaning, would you please close the door?
Do you know more Icelandic words or phrases that don’t exit in English? Please share them with us:
ask@icelandmag.com
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Takk fyrir síðast Thanks for the last time (I saw you). A popular phrase that you will also find in other Nordic languages.
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Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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Iceland Magazine / issue #04 2015
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