Iceland Magazine August 2015

Dill’s devine design

Issue 06 2015

P6

The best brunch in Reykjavík

P 20

The microbrew revolution

P 24

T R AV E L · N AT U R E · N E W S · P E O P L E · C U LT U R E

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p.34

Walk On the Wild Side 8 Reasons to Visit South Iceland

p.28

A VIKING AGE SETTLEMENT EMERGES IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK

Archaeologists uncover one of the largest known Viking longhouses found in Iceland

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South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike 2 departures daily

Whale Watching 3 departures daily

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Daily departures

24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Sales Office, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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Contents FROM THE EDITOR

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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@iceland­mag.com

IN CHINA THEY EAT DOGS

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bout 15 years ago, an Icelandic entrepreneur proposed establishing a dog-breeding farm with the intention of raising dogs for their meat. As Icelanders have no history whatsoever of eating canines, the idea was pitched as an export business.

People either met the proposal with outrage or laughed it off as a bad joke, and the project never got off the ground.

In many Asian countries, eating dogs is, however, no laughing matter. The Chinese town Yulin has an annual dog meat festi­­val, and boshintang soup, made of dog meat, has a long history in Korean culture.

So, essentially, whether you are willing to eat man’s best friend, or not, is a matter of cultural taste.

The same goes for another national tradition that has been subjected to years of international criticism. For decades, on the Mediterranean island of Malta, located between Sicily and the coast of North Africa, it’s been the practice to shoot migrating birds as they rest on the island in the spring, as they travel towards their nesting grounds in Europe.

Malta is the only EU country that allows recreational spring hunting. Elsewhere, it’s considered a basic decency to give birds a chance to breed before being hunted.

Just as Icelanders do not eat dogs, they do not shoot migrating birds in the spring. But they hunt fin whales, which are listed as an endangered species by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

Those in favour of whaling defend it by saying it’s an integral part of Icelandic tradition, which is actually debatable, and that the hunting is sustainable, as the quota for Iceland is only 154 animals, or less than 1% of the North Atlantic fin whale population.

But Iceland has rightly faced fierce international criticism for allowing whale-hunting to continue, as it undermines multilateral efforts to ensure greater worldwide protection for whales.

The support for whaling in Iceland has historically been strong, but it is shifting. In a poll conducted last year, for the first time less than half of the respondents said they supported whaling.

We have seen this happen before. Gradually, and thankfully, some cultural tastes come to an end, when people realize they are on the wrong side of history.

34 Contents 6-18 Lookout 6 Dill’s Divine Design 8 Reykjavík street food market, Moncler’s Icelandic ad campaign 10 Petting cods in the Westfjords 12 Secret waterfall 14-18 Reykjavík Cultural Night, Gay Pride, Fireworks at Jökulsárlón glacial and more highlights ahead.

20 The best of brunch in Reykjavik Our top five favourite places, in no particular order, for brunch in the capital.

22 Complete relaxation Float is a series of water relaxation products that allow the wearer to ease off and unwind while floating weightlessly.

24 A Microbrew Revolution Icelandic beer culture has evolved rapidly in the past few years, as several excellent microbreweries and microbrew-pubs have opened up. Today locals and tourists alike can choose from a wide selection of local brews.

28 A Viking Age settlement emerges in Downtown Reykjavík Visitors to Reykjavík this summer have had the rare opportunity of watching from the sidewalk as archaeologists uncover one of the largest known Viking longhouses found in Iceland.

IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf.

EDITOR Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com ADVERTISING SALES: Jóna María Hafsteinsdóttir jmh@icelandmag.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS: Sara McMahon, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Magnús Sveinn Helgason, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir,, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson LAYOUT: Ivan Burkni ON THE COVER: Hiking on Sólheimajökull glacier in South Iceland (see p. 34). Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing.

Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area.

TALK TO US: hello@icelandmag.com

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34 8 Reasons to Visit South Iceland ICELAND MAGAZINE is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements.

Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.

Within the span of one day you can take a stroll on a black sand beach, hike on a glacier, venture behind a waterfall and visit an explosive volcanic crater.

42 Iceland Magazine Explains What restaurants must one try if you’d like to sample some authentic, Icelandic food? And where does the Icelandic language stem from?

46 Don’t Do This Some hikers leave a very unpleasant paper trail.

Iceland’s largest shopping center Only a 10 minute drive from Reykjavík city center!

Around 100 shops and businesses with world renowned brands.

Come for a visit and shop tax free

OPIÐ: VIRKA DAGA 11-19 FIMMTUDAGA 11-21 LAUGARDAGA 11-18 SUNNUDAGA 13-18 WWW.SMARALIND.IS FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM

Lookout Restaurant Dill

DIVINE DESIGN

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAIL Dill’s rugged handsomeness is the work of Icelandic set designer Hálfdán Petersen. Photos/Mikael Axelsson

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estaurant Dill has been nominated for the 2015 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards, the world’s only event dedicated exclusively to the design of food and beverage spaces, including airports, museums, food trucks, and Michelin-starred restaurants. Dill specialises in traditional Icelandic cuis­­ine and guests can choose be­­­tween a three, five, or a seven-course meal. The set menu changes regularly throughout the year and in accordance with the seasons. The dishes are quite experimental, a sort of coming together of the Nordic cuisine of the Danish Michelin restaurant Noma and the whimsical genius of Heston Blumenthal.

Owner and head chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason once told Ice­ land Magazine that Dill has evolved into what he likes to call ‘New Ice­­landic cuisine.’ “Our focus will always be on Icelandic produce and ingredients.”

Dill is located at Hverfisgata 12, down-town Reykjavík, and designed by Icelandic set designer Hálfdán Pedersen, who also design­­­ed the interior of Kex Hostel and Snaps restaurant.

The awards are set to take place on October 1st. –SM

See: dillrestaurant.is/en

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SOUVENIR SHOP SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012

Great collection, good prices and handknitted sweaters made in Iceland.

Choose the real Lopapeysa.

The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is

Akureyri Reykjavík

www.theviking.is TAX FREE Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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Lookout Krás – highlight

TASTY TREATS This is the second year that Krás food market serves up tasty street food for hungry passersby. Photo/Krás

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EAT YOUR FILL!

Some of Reykjavík’s most flavourful food is to be found at the street market Krás, held every Saturday in Fógetagarðurinn square (in front of Hotel Reykjavík Centrum in Aðalstræti). his is the second summ­­er the glorious food market takes over the small square, having become a great addition to the city’s

culinary flora last year. twelve eateries take part this year. Among them are some of the capital’s best restaurants, such as Kjallarinn, Apótekið, Kol, Kapers and Bergsson mathús to name a few.

They all serve up fresh and tasty street food for hungry passers-by to devour.

Krás takes place every Saturday until the 29th What: Street market Krás of August, between 1 pm and 8 pm. – SM When: Every Saturday until the 29th of August, between 1 pm and 8 pm.

See: is-is.facebook.com/gotumatur

High Fashion In South Iceland

French-Italian clothing brand Moncler shot its latest ad campaign in South Iceland. he French-Italian lifestyle brand Moncler shot its Fall 2015 ad campaign in south Ice­­land this winter, in locations such as Sólheimajökull glacier and Reynisfjara beach. The campaign, shot by world-famous photographer Annie Leibovitz, also stars Ice­­landic model Eva Katrín Baldursdóttir as the Snow Queen.

Moncler was founded in 1952 and is best known for its down jackets and sports­­wear. The brand’s fall/winter 2014 capsule collection, Blackout, featur­­ ed outdoor clothing with large prints of Vatnajökull glacier, south Iceland.

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ETHEREAL The shoot’s locations were quite otherworldly and suited the story well. Photo/Annie Lebovitz for Moncler

Vodafone 4G 4G

Choose Vodafone Iceland With Vodafone, you gain access to the largest* 4G network in Iceland with excellent 3G/4G roaming connectivity, no matter whether you’re on sea or land. Share your memories by using Vodafone’s prepaid mobile starter kit with voice and data.

Vodafone Vodafone Power to you Power to you

Buy your prepaid SIM card at BSI bus terminal, Vodafone stores, N1 gas stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.

PHOTO

* Largest geographic coverage as of 1 April 2015 Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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Lookout The Westfjords

FRIENDLY FISH When stopping by, don’t miss out petting the local pet cods in the small fishing village Suðureyri in the Westfjords

SUÐURERYI VILLAGE Home to 300 people and numerous aquatic inhabitants.

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uðureyri, a small fishing village in the Westfjords, Western Iceland, has a rather unusual petting zoo: a lagoon on the outskirts of town is home to a small population

of friendly cod. The fish are so friendly they swim right up to the small pier in the lagoon to eat out of the hands of visitors. The friendly cod even like to be petted!

A FAVOURITE AMONG LOCALS OF ALL AGES A small school of cod lives in the lagoon by the main road into the village. The cod were released into the lagoon several years ago, and can swim freely between the lagoon and the ocean. But they always return back to the lagoon.

Elías Guðmundsson, who runs the local Hotel Fisherman, tells us the fish are a favourite among locals of all ages and, of course, travellers, too.

Two years ago, Elías constructed a small pier by the lagoon, to make it easier to meet these aquatic inhabitants of Suðureyri, and he tells us that visitors can buy feed for

the fish from local fishermen down at the pier.

The hotel restaurant also offers excellent fish courses, although Elías assures us that none are made from the cod in the lagoon. Fishing in the lagoon is strictly forbidden!

A HIDDEN GEM Suðureyri is a small fishing village (300 inhabitants), a 20-minute drive northwest of town Ísafjörður.

It’s nestled into Súgandafjörður, a narrow picturesque fjord. If you are driving in the Westfjords, you should not miss out on this unique opportunity: When will you ever get a chance to say hello to pet cod in an Icelandic fishing village again?

Who needs oil when you have rain?

Landsvirkjun is one of Europe’s leading renewable energy companies.

Visit our interactive exhibitions at Búrfell and Krafla Power Stations this summer.

Free admission from 10 am – 5 pm every day.

Route information at landsvirkjun.com/visitors

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SECRET WATERFALL PHOTO BY VILHELM GUNNARSSON

This beautiful moss-clad waterfall is in Stórilækur river in South Iceland. It’s well off the beaten track and the location is kind of a secret so we will not provide the GPS coordinates.

However, if you decide to follow the tips above, embark on a research mission and manage to find this spot of beauty, the visit will be richly rewarding.

As always, be sure to leave no trace behind.

See more about South Iceland on p. 34-40. - jk Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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Lookout highlights ahead

Celebrate the Danes Danskir dagar á Stykkishólmi is an annual family festival taking place in the picturesque fishing village of Stykkis­hólm­ ur. The festival includes concerts, enter­­­tainment for the children and other activities.

When: 14th – 16th of August

Sólheimar culture fest

Fish for everyone!

Sólheimar is a small eco-village in South Iceland where people with special needs live and work together, running art workshops and one of Iceland’s first organic farms. Every Saturday until the 22nd of August, a small culture festival takes place in Sólheimar, complete with concerts in Sólheimakirkja church, refreshments, open workshops, and a farmers market. A visit to Sólheimar should definitely be on your bucket list of things to do!

The annual festival The Great Fish Day, taking place in Dalvík between the 6th and 8th of August, has become one of Iceland‘s most popular town festivals. Local fish producers and residents invite guests to try, free of charge, different, tasty sea food dishes. The buffet, set on the harbour, begins at 11am and finishes at 5pm. Other activities taking place during the weekend are boat cruises along the fjord, art exhibitions, and live music.

When: 6th and 8th of August See: fiskidagurinnmikli.is

When: Every Saturday at 2 pm See: Solheimar.is

A glimpse back in time Residents of the handsome, little town of Eyrarbakki will dress up in 19th century garb and celebrate the town’s annual town festival, Aldarmótahátíð, on the 8th of August. Eyrarbakki was once the south’s most important harbour, and the town was the trading centre for the whole of the southern region.

When: 8th of August See: Eyrarbakki.is

Soup’s on!

Kjötsúpuhátíðin in Rangárþing eystra district is an annual celebration of the ever popular, Icelandic meat soup. A number of households in the village of Hvolsvöllur and a few farms near Seljalandsfoss waterfall will invite guests into their homes to feast on home-made ‘kjötsúpa’. Iceland’s only circus will be in town and a local farmers market – a traditional sveitaball (country dance) will take place on Saturday evening.

When: 28th til 29th of August See: hvolsvollur.is/menning-og-mannlif/ vidburdir/kjotsupuhatid

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• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is

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Lookout highlights ahead

REYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT This is one of the largest and most popular events in Iceland.

Light up the glacier lagoon

A NIGHT OF CULTURE

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enningarnótt, or Culture Night, is an annual culture event taking place all over Reykjavík on the 22nd of August. This year, the event celebrates its 20th anniversary, making the fair that much bigger and better.

One of Menningarnótt’s most popular attractions is the Vöfflukaffi, where residents in down-town

ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS ENN 73826 03/15

www.n1.is

Reykjavík invite guests into their homes for a waffle, coffee, and a friendly chat. Events will take place all over the city centre: in museums, private homes, out on the streets, and in parks. The highlight of the evening is a massive firework display taking place by the Harpa Concert Hall at midnight

When: 22nd August See more: Menningarnott.is

T

he annual fire works display at Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon takes place on the 22nd of August. It‘s an amazing experience to witness the gorgeous landscape of Jökulsárlón lit up with the myriad bright colors of the fireworks.

The entrance fee is 1000 krónur but admission is free for those younger than 12.

When: 22nd of August at 11pm

facebook.com/enneinn

Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland Your convenient one-stop on your journey

While you might stop for fuel, you can stay for the food, travel necessities, books and magazines, or grab a cup of coffee before heading out again.

To find your nearest location and plan your trip, log on to www.n1.is/locations

N1 operates a network of 95 locations all around Iceland.

That means you’re never far away from the energy you need for your journey.

Keep moving

Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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Lookout Þjóðhátíð highlight

FIRE IT UP! No one celebrates the Verslunarmannahelgi the way the inhabitants of the Westman Islands do with their annual Þjóðhátíð festival.

PARTY THE WEEKEND AWAY Sing-alongs, bonfires, fireworks, and a whole lot of fun—That’s what you get when you attend the Þjóðhátíð festival in Heimaey, Westman Islands.

T

he first weekend of August is known as “Versl­unar­manna­helgi,” the busines­sman’s holiday, in Iceland. Traditionally, businesses give their personnel the first Monday in August off, a custom that continues to this day.

The three-day-long bank holiday is celebrated all over Iceland, but no one celebrates to the extent that the inhabitants of the Westman Islands do, with between

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11–16,000 people (nearly 4 times the Island’s population) attending the festival annually.

The history of Þjóðhátíð (the national festival) dates back to 1874, when, because of bad weat­ her, the residents of the West­man Islands were unable to travel to the mainland to join in the celebration of the 1,000-year anniversary of the Settlement of Iceland. Instead, they held their own celebration that led to the long-lasting tradition of

Þjóðhátíð. Highlights include a massive bonfire on Friday night, a mind-blowing fireworks show on Satur­day night, and, most impress­ ive of all, an eruption of red torches that light up the valley and represent the Island’s volcanic flames.

This year’s musical line-up includes pop star Páll Óskar, Júníus Meyvant, FM Belfast, and Maus, to name only a few.

Out and proud

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he annual Gay Pride Parade in Reykjavík is one of the biggest family celebrations in the whole of Iceland.

The float begins by BSÍ bus station in down-town Reykjavík and travels along Sóleyjargata and Fríkirkjuvegur streets and ends by Arnarhóll hill where a the celebrations will continue with concerts and family fun.

When: 8th of August at 2pm See: Reykjavikpride.com.

Slippurinn ­

PROMOTION

A DELICIOUS TREAT! Slippurinn eatery in Heimaey, Vestmannaeyjar islands, is a family run restaurant that focuses on new Nordic and modern Icelandic cuisine and sources its ingredients locally. Photos/Slippurinn.

A Delightful Treat By the Harbour Slippurinn is a fantastic, family run restaurant, located on the beautiful Vestmannaeyjar islands, South Iceland.

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lippurinn eatery in Heima­­ ey, Vestmannaeyjar islands, is a family run restau­­rant located in what used to be the town’s machine work­­ shop. The charming building boasts a stunning view of the town’s landmark, Heimaklettur cliff, and the bustling harbour area.

Slippurinn is run by a family of four: Chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson, a member of the Icelandic national culinary team, creates the delicious seasonal dishes, his sister, artist and designer Indíana Auðunsdóttir, is the restaurant’s manager, their mother, Katrín Gísladóttir, serves as front of house, and their father, Auðunn

The restaurant, which is only open during the summer, focuses on Icelandic cuisine with a modern twist and sources its ingredients locally.

Stefnisson, is a fisherman and Slippur­ inn’s handyman.

“We’ve been extremely busy this summer. We decided to extend our

opening hours and do lunch as well to accommodate the day-travellers that pop over to the island with the ferry from Landeyjahöfn harbour,” Indíana tells.

Fresh fish is bought directly from local fishermen and the family regularly heads out to gather fresh herbs and sea­­ weed that are used to create Slippur­­ inn’s unique dishes and cocktails.

“Vestmannaeyjar islands are a treasure trove when it comes to fresh ingredi­­ ents!,” Indíana says.

“Our cocktails have become extremely popular and our guests thoroughly enjoy them. One described them as “Iceland in a glass”.”

This summer Slippurinn offers several different five course tasting menus that includes the eatery’s most popular dishes and give guests the full Slippurinn culinary experience.

See: slippurinn.com Strandvegur 76 Westman Islands, Vestmannaeyjar 900, Iceland

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Lookout Highlights ahead

INFECTED

BY THE ART BUG The art exhibition Listería takes place in what was supposed to be Reykjavík’s medical history museum.

TAKEN OVER The empty building has been taken over by the “art bug” Listería. Photos/RAX

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he art exhibition Listería opened in the Safnahúsið museum in July. Located in what was supposed to be Reykjavík’s medical history museum, the show features work by artists Ragnar Axelsson, Ívar Valgarðsson, Svava Björnsdóttir, Kristinn E. Hrafnsson, and Finn­ bogi Pétursson and is curated by Margrét Áskelsdóttir and Klara Stephensen. The handsome museum building, which has stood empty since Ice­land suffered its economic coll­apse of 2008, is situated on one of the capital’s most scenic spots, a small peninsula named Seltjarnarnes.The

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western­most tip of the peninsula, Grótta, has been a na­­ture reserve since the 1970s be­cause of its rich birdlife, and boasts a stunning view over the Snæfells­nes peninsula and the Snæfellsnes glacier in the north.

exhibition,” says curator Margrét Áskelsdóttir. “The artwork was picked and created in relation to the space—one could say that the building itself is the exhibition’s seventh artist. Judging from the

The artwork was picked and created in relation to the space—one could say that the building itself is the exhibition’s seventh artist.

The show’s title, Listería, is drawn from a genus of bacteria, but is also a play on words, as the Ice­­landic word for art is “list.” The “art bacteria” has spread through the whole space, infecting it with art.

“The empty museum building was what prompted us to set up the

steady flow of visitors we’ve had since its opening, people seem to be fascinated by the building. It’s our hope it will continue to house modern art in the future.”

The exhibition is open daily between 1 pm and 7 pm until the end of August.

After the exhibition, we recom­ mend you take a quiet stroll around the Grótta nature reserve, completing your outing with a relaxing footbath at the tiny geothermal pool on the ocean front (near the old, wooden huts).

www.arnartr.com

the warmth of Iceland Varma is dedicated to maintaining Icelandic tradition in developing, designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling.

Varma is available in various tourist shops around Iceland

Harpa Regulars They’re always around Pearls of Icelandic Song

How to Become Icelandic in 60 Minutes

Get acquainted with some of the most beloved Icelandic songs, folk music, art songs and classical Icelandic music.

A comedy stand–up in English which teaches you everything you need to know about being Icelandic and living in Iceland.

harpa.is/pearls

harpa.is/howtobecome

Guided Tours

Expo 360° Cinematic Experience

Experience the magnificent Harpa from behind the scenes.

Summer time Daily: 09:00, 11:00, 13:30, 15:30

Iceland in all its diversity, projected onto four walls and the ceiling, forming a cube that surrounds its guests.

harpa.is/guidedtours

harpa.is/expo

Reykjavík Concert Hall and Conference Centre

Austurbakki 2 101 Reykjavík Iceland

www.harpa.is +354 528 5000

Harpa is open every day 08:00 – 24:00

Harpa box office 09:00 – 18:00 Weekdays 10:00 – 18:00 Weekends

THE BEST OF BRUNCH…. IN REYKJAVIK In recent months I’ve decided I’m a “foodie.”

I’ve known this for a while—I’ve enjoyed eating for decades—but I used to be picky.

But my pickiness belongs in the past, and now strange-sounding food combinations intrigue me, mostly because the taste is nearly always worth it and the strangeness turns out to be well-thought-out and delicious. With that in mind, I’ve compiled a list of my top five favourite places, in no particular order, for brunch in Reykjavik.

TEXT BY AGNES VALDIMARSDÓTTIR

Coocoo’s Nest This tiny little place may be slightly difficult to locate

by Reykjavik’s old harbor, but it’s worth it. Coocoo’s Nest offers the classics with a twist: cinnamon pancakes, green eggs and ham, breakfast burritos, and much more. And to top it all: they only use organic eggs! It’s quaint, it’s charming, it’s a stop you won’t regret making.

See: coocoosnest.is Where: Grandagarður 23

Nauthóll

Vegamót

Nauthóll bistro is located by Reykjavik’s one and only (man-made) beach. On a nice summer (Sun) day, you can sit outside and watch the planes landing at the Reykjavík airport nearby, the locals enjoying the good weather by biking or rollerblading along the ocean, and best of all, you can do this while brunching. Nauthóll is perfect for those with “decision-making anxiety” because there’s only one brunch that’s served. Fruit, sourdough bread, pancakes, and eggs in a jar. It’s simple made fancy, and it’s always good.

I think everyone who’s been to downtown Reykjavik knows Vegamót Kitchen and Bar. It’s popular among the locals for a variety of reasons, only one of which is their brunch. Vegamót serves brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am until 4 pm, and you can choose from four different brunch plates. There’s also a children’s brunch for those traveling with little ones. Vegamót is easy on the budget while giving you lots of grub. It’s a win-win situation.

See: nautholl.is Where: Nauthólsvegur 106

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See: Vegamot.is Where: Vegamótastíg 4

Public House Gastro Pub As the name suggests, Public House is a gastropub located in downtown Reykjavik. The restaurant opened this past May and has met and exceeded everyone’s expectations. The menu is different from what you may be used to, but somehow they manage to turn a pulledduck-waffle into the perfect brunch. Try it. You won’t be disappointed.

See: publichouse.is Where: Laugavegur 24, 101 Reykjavík

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RELAX Float allows the wearer to enjoy a deep and weightless relaxation. Photo/Gunnar Svanberg

Float into complete relaxation

Float is a series of water relaxation products that allow the wearer to ease off and unwind while floating weightlessly.

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ou are floating weight­ lessly, the only sound you can hear is the rhyth­m of your own breathing and the mumbled voices of the people around, and you feel completely relaxed. Float is a series of products, designed by Unnur Valdís Kristjánsdóttir, that reduce stress and allow the wearer to enjoy a deep and weightless relaxation.

The idea came to Unnur Valdís when she was studying product design at the Icelandic Academy of the Arts. “One could say that the idea floated up from the depths of my subconscious while I was re­ searching the benefits of exercise. I

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wanted to work with Iceland’s rich bathing culture and this is the result,” Unnur Valdís explains.

“Water lets you relax and recharge your batteries, and here in Iceland, we’ve enjoyed its healing powers for centuries.”

The products, which include headgear and leg floats, have been well received in Iceland. Now eight swimming pools all around the country offer organised float sessi­ ons called ‘Samflot,’ where guests can unwind while floating in the pool weightlessly. The products provide a similar feeling to that experienced in float tanks, which are used for meditation and

re­laxa­tion, but in this case, you can enjoy floating under the open sky.

According to Unnur Valdís, muscle tension, blood pressure and heart rate drop dramatically while float­ing, and stress-related chemi­­ cals, such as adrenaline, are remov­ ed from the bloodstream and re­ placed by beneficial endorphins.

Float is available in numerous design stores in Iceland and also through the company’s website, www.float.is. The products have been sold to individuals in over thirty countries worldwide.

So, get on board with the trend and float around! -SM

THE SET The Float set consists of headgear and leg floats.

Photo/Gunnar Svanberg

We proudly present our latest collection. The Icelandic designed Tradition watches are stylish and are available in a range of color combinations. See the whole collection on michelsenwatch.com.

Laugavegur 15 - 101 ReykjavĂ­k - Tel. 354 511 1900 - www.michelsenwatch.com

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A microbrew revolution

Icelandic beer culture has evolved rapidly in the past few years, as several excellent microbreweries and microbrew-pubs have opened up. Today locals and tourists alike can choose from a wide selection of local brews.

WORDS BY MAGNÚS SVEINN HELGASON / PHOTOS BY MIKAEL AXELSSON

he selection and quality of Icelandic microbrews is especially striking when we consider the fact that beer was banned in Iceland as recently as 1989. Yes, you read that right: Beer was actually banned until recently. The ban, which was a holdover from Prohibition, lasted from 1915 until March 1, 1989, which has ever since been celebrated by local beer-enthusiasts and pubs as “Beer-Day.” During the first years after the beer-ban was lifted, the Icelandic market was dominated by very simple lager beers. The most popular beers were Egils Gull, produced by Egill Skalla­grímsson brewery, and a similar blond lager, produced by Sanitas, which was later renamed Víking, as well as imported beers made by Löwenbrau, Budweiser, and Tuborg.

A KNEE INJURY LEADS TO A LOCAL MICROBREW REVOLUTION In 2005, however, a couple from Árskógs­ strand­ur, a tiny fishing village north of Akur­ eyri in Northern Iceland, got the idea of establishing a brewery. The husband, Ólafur Þröstur Ólafsson, had been a fisherman all his life, but a knee injury he suffered in 2003 had made it impossible to continue working at sea.

The idea of establishing a microbrewery em­ erg­ed after his wife, Agnes Sigurðardóttir, saw a report on a Danish microbrewery on the evening news in June 2005.

With the typical enthusiasm of Icelandic fishermen, who are used to thinking and acting quickly to respond to the weather and winds and the unpredictable movements of the fish, they made all the preparations, including order­ing necessary equipment from the Czech Republic, within a few months. By early 2006, the first Kaldi beer had been bottled.

Today Kaldi is the most-sold bottled beer in Iceland (the mass-produced beers are primarily sold in cans), and the tiny brewery has been expanded several times over. Kaldi beers, which have no added sugar or preservatives, Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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math reveals that the Icelandic microbrewing revolution is quite impressive: With five microbreweries already in operation, and two more planned, Iceland would have one microbrewery for every 47 thousand inhabitants.

The US, with its 3400 craft breweries, has one for every 93 thousand inhabitants. By that measure, at least, Iceland is twice the micro­­ brew­ing nation as the US!

MIKKELLER AND FRIENDS The beer selection will make you dizzy before you have ordered the first round.

are sold on tap in many of the better bars around Iceland, including Kaldi Bar in Reykjavík, where you can try several varieties, including sea­­­sonal and experimental brews unfiltered on tap.

MICROBREWS TAKE ON THE MASS-PRODUCED LAGERS Today there are five microbreweries in Iceland, and two more are scheduled to open this summer or fall. In addition to Bruggsmiðjan Árskógs­ sandi, which brews Kaldi, there is Ölvisholt in Southern Iceland, founded in 2007, and Gæð­ ingur, opened in 2011 in Skagafjörður fjord in Northern Iceland. Frustrated by the difficulty he had in getting his product on tap in Reykjavík

IF YOU CAN’T BEAT ‘EM, JOIN ‘EM In addition, there is the Borg brewery, which was founded in 2010. Although Borg is a subsi­ diary of Egill Skallagrímsson, it operates as an independent microbrewery, churning out experi­mental brews. Many of its products have received high praise from Icelandic beer lovers.

The “big guys” still dominate the market, as the microbreweries have less than a 10% market share. However, we need to remember that with an annual production of only 11–15 million litres, the “big” breweries in Iceland would qualify as “regional craft breweries” according to the definition of the American Brewers Asso­­ ciation, even if their products, the mass-pro­duc­­

This summer the first brewpub is scheduled to open by the Reykjavík old harbour, and a seventh microbrewery is scheduled to open in Eastern Iceland. (the big producers insisted on exclusive contracts with bar owners), Árni Heiðar, the founder of Ölvisholt, opened MicroBar in Reykjavík, lead­ ing the way for other microbrew-pubs. Recently he opened a microbrew-pub in Sauðárkrókur, a small town in Skagafjörður where Ölvisholt is located.

Then, in 2012, the small brewery Steðji open­ ed in Western Iceland. Steðji has had a taste for controversy. In 2014 and 2015, Steðji intro­­ duced a seasonal whale-flavored beer. The 2015 vintage of the whale beer was flavoured with smoked fin-whale testicles.

This summer the first brewpub is scheduled to open by the Reykjavík old harbour, and a seventh microbrewery is scheduled to open in Eastern Iceland on the banks of Lagarfljótið riv­ er, bringing the total number of micro­­brew­er­ies to seven.

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ed lager beers, have little if anything in common with craft brewing. Still, the com­peti­tion from the microbreweries and growing sophistication of Icelandic consumers has led to a growing sophi­­­ stication of their products. To­­­day every beer-lov­­ er should find something to his taste in Iceland.

ICELAND IS ALWAYS BIGGEST AND GREATEST, ON A PER CAPITA BASIS! Icelanders like to claim their various achieve­ ments are the greatest in the world, when con­ sidered on a per capita basis. For example, Icelandic beauty queens have won the title Miss World three times, as many times as the US, and Icelandic strongmen have won the title The World’s Strongest Man eight times, compared to two golds won by the US, proving Icelandic women are the most beautiful in the world and Icelandic men the strongest! Using the same

Borg Brugghús: Grjótháls 7-11, Reykjavík Egill Skallagrímsson Brewery offers a “Taste the Saga Brewery Tour,” which is a shorter, English version of the “beer school” the brewery has operated since 2010. The tour takes place every Friday and Saturday at 6 pm.

You need to book through the webpage www. gestastofa.is.

Steðji: Steðji (farm), Borgarnes Steðji offers tasting and guided tours of their micro-brewery. The minimum for a tour is 6 people. Further information and appointments at stedji@stedji.com. Ölvisholt: Ölvisholt (farm), Selfoss Ölvisholt brewery organizes tours and beer tasting of their offerings at “The Red House,” a beautiful restaurant in the pictures­que fishing village of Eyrarbakki, in Southern Ice­­land, just south of Selfoss. Further infor­­ma­­tion and reservations can be made through brugghus@ raudahusid.is and by phone, 483 3330.

Gæðingur: Útvík (farm), Sauðarkrókur You can get a taste and tour of the offerings of Gæðingur at Microbar in downtown Sauðarkrókur, which is owned and operated by Árni Hafstað, the owner of Gæðingur Brewery.

Groups interested in a visit to the brewery or a more in-depth introduction to the art of microbrewing can contact Árni at Microbar, or email the brewery at gaedingur@hotmail.com Bruggsmiðjan: Öldugata 22, Árskógssandur Bruggsmiðjan at Árskógssandur offers visitors beer tasting and tours of the brewery. Each tour takes about one hour, includes refreshments and tastings of the various Kaldi beers, and visitors can take home the Kaldi glass they used during the visit. For further information and reservations, contact bruggsmidjan@ bruggsmidjan.is or by phone 466-2505.

Icelandic Highlands ­

PROMOTION

HIGHLAND OASIS Kýlingar area, in the Friðland að Fjallabaki region. Photo/Roar Aagestad

Save the Icelandic Highlands – the Heart of Iceland Please help us protect the Icelandic Highlands and contribute to our efforts by signing the pledge on our website www.heartoficeland.org

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ver the last few decades, the Ice­­­landic Highlands have been und­­er siege, threatened by in­­creasing pressure to build power plants, paved roads, and power lines.

That demand comes from energy comp­anies but 80% of all electricity produced in Iceland is sold to polluting industries, such as aluminum smelters.

The Icelandic Highlands form one of the largest territories in Europe, south of the Arctic Circle, which has never been inhabited or cultivated and are considered one of the last great wild­­ ernesses in Europe.

In a Capacent-Gallup poll in 2015, the majority of respondents (over 60%) said they favored a national park in the Highlands and 80% of tourists name nature as a main reason for visiting Iceland. We need your help to protect our pristine nature in the Highlands.

THE MAP OF ICELAND These are the proposed plans in the highlands. 220kW high voltage overhead power line over Sprengisandur plateau, built up paved roads over Kjölur and Sprengisandur plateau and up to fifteen new power plants. Read more about the pro­­posed plans and their effects at www.heartoficeland.org

Landvernd, the Icelandic Environ­­ ment Associ­­ation, is an NGO that was founded in 1969. It is the largest environmental NGO in Ice­­land with 3900 members. Landvernd focuses on en­­vironmental education,

environ­­ment­al manage­­­ment and en­­ viron­­mental policy- and protection in Iceland. One of Landvernd´s biggest battles at the moment, is the fight to protect the Highlands of Iceland from energy pro­­­duction.

Learn more about Landvernd here www.landvernd.is/en

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A Viking Age Settlement Emerges In Downtown Reykjavík Visitors to Reykjavík this summer have had the rare opportunity of watching from the sidewalk as archaeologists uncover one of the largest known Viking longhouses found in Iceland. The longhouse, which emerged in an archaeological dig in a down-town parking lot, where a new luxury hotel is scheduled to be constructed, have forced historians to re-write the history of Viking Age Reykjavík.

BY MAGNÚS SVEINN HELGASON

UNCOVERING THE PAST From the archeology dig at Lækjargata street. Photo/Andri Marínó

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dig by Lækjargata street, tells us. The site was therefore partially destroyed by development, making it impossible to tell exactly how large the longhouse was.

However, what was preserved under the parking lot and backyards of nearby houses has allowed the archaeologists to establish that it is one of the largest Viking-era longhouses found in Iceland. The long-fire, or hearth, which stretched along the middle corridor of all Viking

longhouses, is certainly the longest found in Iceland, measuring 5.2 meters (17 feet). The size of the building shows it was the home of someone of considerable wealth and status.

A decision has not been reached on whether and how the find will be preserved. A new fourstar hotel has been planned for the site.

Construction work for the hotel will start after the archaeologists have explored the area completely and the excavation is completed.

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“All the stones are numbered, and all the infor­­ mation preserved, so the structure or a part of it could be reconstructed,” Lisabet points out. The developer has indicated he might wish to have the long fire reconstructed as a permanent exhi­­ bition in the hotel.

MAPPING VIKING

The long-fire, or hearth, which stretched along the middle corridor of all Viking longhouses, is certainly the longest found in Iceland.”

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REMAINS IN REYKJAVÍK’S CENTRE

Note: The map does not contain the outlines of walls, drains, pathways and other remains which have been discovered in the area. The shore of the lake has also varied through history, and in the the ninth century its north shore might have been somewhat further to the south than indicated, although the precise location has not been firmly established.

Similarly the width of the river, connecting the lake and the sea, which runs where Lækjargata street is currently is not exactly known, but it probably was wide enough to navigate by boat allowing boats to dock along the north shore of the lake. Today the river runs in a sewer under the street”

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1: Remains of a boundary wall

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2: Part of a settlement age long-house wall

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4: A stone pathway, leading toward the lake, and a built up open stone drain, also leading towards the lake.

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5: Parts of the stone pathway and the built up open stone drain, leading toward the lake. Various other settlement era remains, including a trash heap.

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3: At least one and half long-houses, two smithies, a rye storage and stone courtyard. The area, which is covered by a parking-lot, has only been partially explored.

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6: A large industrial area, stretching along Tjarnargata street and the shores of the down-town lake, which extended further north at the age of settlement. The area was found to have been home to at least four smithies and other workshops. These included workshops for iron, silver, wood and leather, rye, fish and meat processing, as well as a brewery.

Along the lake was a boundary wall, seperating the lake from the industrial area, as well as a wooden walkway, running alongside the boundary wall.

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7: The remains of a smithy and part of a long-house 8: A large long-house from the 10th century and the remains of a 9th century wall, constructed prior to the settlement tephra 871+/-2. The earliest settlement at the site seems to date to the first half of the 8th century.

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9: Fragmentary remains of a wall, either the wall of a long-house or an enclosure wall.

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10: Fragment of a wall, either a boundary or an enclosure wall.

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11: According to written documents a cemetery and church stood at this location around 1200, but it is believed that an earlier church would have stood at the same site, and that a church would have been constructed at the site following the adoption of Christianity in the year 1000. No excavation has yet taken place at the site.

12: Austurvöllur square is the single largest untouched area in downtown Reykjavík, and archaeologists are optimistic it might hold evidence and artefacts which could help shed further light on the Viking age settlement of Reykjavík. No excavation has yet taken place at the site.

13: The long-house by Lækjargata street is being excavated this summer. It has been revealed to be one of the largest longhouses in Iceland, possibly larger than the long-house by Aðalstræti street (8). A stone pathway seems to have led from the house in the direction of the river which connected the lake and the sea.

14: Preliminary studies in the parking lot south of the current archaeological dig have revealed settlement age remains. Excavations are to start this summer.

The image is based on a map provided by the Reykjavík City Museum and descriptions of each site were compiled with the help of archaeologists Vala Garðarsdóttir and Lisabet Guðmundsdóttir. However, we take full responsibility for any mistakes or errors that might be in the map.

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Anna Lísa Guðmundsdóttir, archaeologist at the Reykjavík City Museum argues that the discovery of the longhouse is very important, as it shows that the Viking Age settlement in Reykjavík was significantly larger than previously believed: “It has expanded the area where we can expect to find settlement era remains. Previously we had primarily focused on the area on the southern end of Aðalstræti street [8-10 on the map], and the northern ends of Suðurgata and Tjarnargata streets [3-7 on the map]. The distance between that site and the current find is 200 meters (660 feet), demonstrating that we can expect settlement age finds over a significantly wider area than we had previously expected.“ Vala Garðarsdóttir, an archaeologist who oversaw the excavation by Tjarnargata street

Hearth

Turfwall with stone lining

discovery of the longhouse by Lækjargata street (number 13 on the map) shows this village was larger than previously believed.

In the ninth century the downtown lake extended much further to the north. At the time the ironworks were on the western shore of the lake, while the newly found longhouse would have stood on the eastern shore of the lake. It would also have stood on the banks of the short river that connected the lake to the sea. Today the river runs in a sewer beneath Lækjargata street.

when they dug for the foundations of buildings or roads. Lisabet points out that both ends of the longhouse by Lækjargata were cut off when the nearby buildings were constructed. “People didn‘t know any better, and it was perhaps also impossible for them to know what they were doing.” A piece of a Viking Age wall does not look much different from other rocks in the ground to the untrained eye. “It is impossible to know what has been destroyed over the past century as Reykjavík has grown into a city.”

The recent discoveries bring into stark relief how little we actually know about Viking Age ONLY SMALL PATCHES HAVE BEEN EXPLORED Reykjavík. Lisabet argues that very important Further excavation is now planned in a parking work remains to be done, both in the ground, lot to the south of the current site (number 14 on literally, and above ground. “The important task the map). According to Lisabet Guðmundsdóttir for the coming years will be to fill in the gaps, preliminary digs in that area have shown that it but perhaps more importantly, to study these contains settlement age structures and remains. finds in context, their distribution and connections.”

In the meantime we can watch the Archaeological excavation conducted by the Institute of Archaeology archaeologists at work from the sidewalk on Lækjargata street, and fill in the gaps with our imagination.

In the beginning of this project the

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remains of a turf house named Lækjarkot was expected to be uneathed here. It was built in 1799 by Einar Valdason, a owner of a “empty house”, a house that had no land to farm and thePavement inhabitants usually provided for themselves by fishing. This turfhouse was then demolished in 1887 and ARCHAEOLOGICAL EXCAVATION Floor a storage built on the site. There are no CONDUCTED BY THE INSTITUTE OF ARCHAEOLOGYN. historical sources for any other buildings on the site. n the beginning of this project the re­ mains of afrom turf house Lækjar­ The excavation has taken a interesting turn as remains a lotnamed earlier age were found kot was expected to be uneathed here. underneath. What you are looking at now is a longhouse from the 10th-13th century.

It was built in 1799 by Einar Valdason, With the largest hearth that has been uneartheda owner from ofthat era in Iceland.

Archaeologists a “empty house”, a house are now working hard, documenting, measuring and photographing living that had no land to farm and the these inhabitants usually provided for themselves by fishing. quarters and pavements.

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This turfhouse was then demolished in 1887 and a storage built on the site. There HOME TO A CHIEFTAIN This is the remains of one of the largest longhouses found in Iceland. Photo/Andri Marínó are no historical sources for any other buildings on the site. The excavation has taken a interesting turn as remains from (number 6 on the map), south of the House of “However we do not know what condition they a lot earlier age were found underneath.

Parliament in 2008-9 agrees. When this most are in. The area has been disturbed far more What you are looking at now is a longhouse Hearth recent discovery is added to the archaeological through the years than the site we are currently from the 10th-13th century.

WithInstitute the largest Archaeological excavation conducted by the of Archaeology hearth that has been unearthed from that discoveries in downtown Reykjavík over the excavating.”

Iceland.

Archaeologists now Aera spindle whorl in the floorare of the older house, In the beginning of thisinproject thefound past few years, we are seeing a picture of a In fact, Wallthere are very few areas in downtown remains of a turf these house named Lækjarkot working hard, documenting, measuring and are typical from around 10-12th century. vibrant small village: Reykjavík that remain undisturbed. Butwas Lisabet expected to bephotographing uneathed here. It was Wall these living quarters and Floor built in 1799 by Einar Valdason, a owner “The site along Tjarnargata street revealed believes there are some very promising sites pavements.

A possible byre

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several smithies and workshops, most importantly ironworks but also silverworks, a woodshed and as well as workshops for toolmaking, processing skins, wool and foodstuffs and a brewery. This was clearly the industrial area of a small village. Everything we have found shows we are looking at a vibrant village at the time of settlement.”

Vala adds that a wooden walkway, which stretched along a boundary wall which separated the lake from the industrial area to its west, was perhaps the most amazing find, since it was the first street in Reykjavík. The

of a “empty house”, a house that had no

worth exploring: land to farm and the inhabitants usually provided for themselves by fishing. This “Most importantly there is Austurvöllur turfhouse was then demolished in 1887 and Square, in front of the House of Parliament a storage built on the site. There are no historical sources for any other buildings [number 12 on the map], and the old cemetery, on the site.

Fógetagarðurinn, by Aðalstræti street [number The excavation has taken a interesting turn as remains from a lot earlier age were found 11 on the map]. There are also a few parcels underneath. What you are looking at now is a longhouse from the 10th-13th century.

With here and there, including a parking lot on thethe largest hearth that has been unearthed from that era in Iceland. Archaeologists are now working hard, documenting, measuring and photographing these living corner of Vonarstræti and Suðurgata [number 3 THE HEARTH Is over five meters long. quarters and pavements. The hearth, which is over 5 meters long on the map], which have only been partially overview the be excavation A spindle whorl found in explored. AndAnthere mightofalso undisturbed the foor of the older house, archaeological remains under some of the streets these are typical from and sidewalks.” In the past, people did not pay around 10-12th century.

Hearth For remains more information go to: http://www.instarch.is/laekjargata attention to possible archaeological Wall

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A spindle whorl found in the floor of the older house, these are typical from around 10-12th century.

AND OTHER WILDLIFE ADVENTURES FROM REYKJAVIK

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Kirkjubraut 11 / Akraness / s: 431-4343 / www.gamlakaupfelagid.is Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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8 REASONS TO VISIT SOUTH ICELAND

Within the span of one day you can take a stroll on a black sand beach, hike on a glacier, venture behind a waterfall and visit an explosive volcanic crater.

PHOTOS BY VILHELM GUNNARSSON

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Pages 34-35: Sólheimajökull glacier

A WORLD OF ICE South Iceland boasts three glaciers: Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull, and Sólheimajökull. The last mentioned stretches all the way to the desolate black sands that characterize the southern coast. A number of tourist operators offer guided hikes up Sólheimajökull. During the hike, one is surrounded by amazing scenery, blue caves, a myriad of beautiful ice formations, and dark streaks of ash.

HEKLA VOLCANO When will she blow?

GATEWAY TO HELL In the Middle Ages, Europeans believed that Hekla, one of Iceland’s most active volcanoes, was the gateway to Hell.

The eruptions are difficult to predict, but the general correlation is this: the longer Hekla remains dormant, the larger and more catastrophic its next eruption will be.

The most recent Hekla eruption was in 2000, but the volcano has erupted between twenty and thirty times since 1104. In spite of that, Hekla is a popular destination for hiking, and there’s a path that goes most of the way to the summit.

If you visit in the spring, keep in mind that legend has it that witches gather on Hekla at Easter.

THE LEADING HORSE Iceland’s first “equestrian theatre” is open for business in the town of Selfoss. Icelandic horses are the stars of the show, says the show director, Guðmar Þór Pétursson.

The centre also features a restaurant and a designer shop. Iceland’s only horse park provides an opportunity to dine on fresh Icelandic food, while also getting to know our unique breed of horse that is unlike any other in the world. This is a fun, entertaining, and educational place for the whole family to visit all year round.

VENTURE BEHIND THE SELJALANDSFOSS WATERFALL The picturesque Seljalandsfoss waterfall is a popu­lar tourist attraction in South Iceland, located east of Hvolsvöllur and a mere five-minute detour from Route 1.

What is unique about Seljalandsfoss is that you can walk behind it, which gives you a completely new perspective on waterfalls. A small, winding, slippery trail leads visitors behind the waterfall, where the immense power of the water crashing down can truly be felt. Being surrounded by mossy cliffs and the mist from the waterfall makes it a magical experience. Be sure to wear a raincoat when visiting Seljalands­ foss, because you will definitely get wet. And tread cautiously, since the paths are wet and can be slippery.

Across from Seljalandsfoss, the Markarfljót river delta can be seen extending out into the North Atlantic. The glacial river arises in the Rauðafossfjöll mountains, east of the volcano Hekla, and is roughly 100 kilometres (62 miles) long.

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THE MOST POPULAR ROUTE Þingvellir in autumn colours, Gullfos waterfall and Strokkur erupting.

THREE KEY DESTINATIONS OF THE GOLDEN CIRCLE Þingvellir national park is special for a variety of reasons. One of them is that in 930, the first

I Parliament was established at Þingvellir, and it remained there until 1798. The founding of

Parliament was the founding of the nation of Iceland, which laid the ground for a common cultural heritage and national identity. So it is perhaps not too surprising that the Prime Minister of Iceland has a cottage at Thingvellir—for one must remember the past in order to help design the future.

Another interesting fact about Þingvellir national park is that it is located just between the European and North American tectonic plates. You can even see the rift in the vertical canyon at Þingvellir, called Almannagjá. And if you are scuba-certified, you can scuba at Silfra fissure—perhaps your only chance to be able to touch Europe and North America at the same time. Keep in mind that the plates drift apart about 2 centimetres a year.

II Gullfoss waterfall is a very popular tourist attraction, and perhaps the most magnificent thing

about the fall is how close you can get to it, especially in the summer. During the winter months, looking at it from a distance may be your only choice, but it’s for your safety. When you first approach Gullfoss, the crevice is obscured from view, so it seems as if the water is falling into the Earth, and not into the Hvítá river. It’s big, it’s loud, and it’s worth checking out.

III Geysir, as the name suggests, is a geyser. The word ‘geyser’ in English actually derives from the

Icelandic word Geysir. The geyser you will see erupt into the sky in the Geysir geothermal area is, however, not the famous Geysir, but one called Strokkur. It erupts every few minutes to heights of up to 30 metres.

BLACK SAND BEACHES Stretching from the village of Vík all the way to Höfn in Hornarfjörður, along the South shore of Iceland, are black sand and pebble beaches that are quite unique. It may seem strange at first, but in a volcanic island such as Iceland, it’s no surprise that the beaches are black from the tiny fragments of volcanic lava. A popular black sand beach is the Reynisfjara beach, which has black sand and basalt columns like you’ve never seen anywhere else. From the beach you can see the Reynisdrangar basalt sea stacks, which according to legend are really two trolls who attempted to drag a ship to land when the sun rose and turned them into needles of rock.

BREAKING THE WAVES The black sand beach at Mýrdalssandur.

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Explore the wonders of Vestmannaeyjar The unique islands south of Iceland, famous for their rich birdlife and volcanic activity.

PROMOTION

VESTMANNAEYJAR ISLANDS The only inhabited island is Heimaey is 8 km (5 mi) from the south coast of Iceland.

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estmannaeyjar are 15 islands. They are famous for their birdlife, on islands is the world’s largest puffin colony. Bird watching tours are very popular, there are sightseeing tours by sea and air. Golfers favor the island´s unusual 18 hole golf course. The city centrum of the island´s has a number of

GOLF The island´s 18-hole golf course is located in the crater of an extinct volcano and is one of the most beautiful and extraordinary golf course in the world.

restaurants and cafes, hotels, guesthouses, a campsite and a swimming pool. The only aquarium in Iceland, Sæheimar, is located in Vestmannaeyjar, Sagnheimar the local folk museum is also worth a visit. Whatever you do don´t miss the brand new volcanic museum ELDHEIMAR – Pompei of the North.

The main island Heimaey is at a distance of 8 km from the south coast of Iceland.

Visitors can get there by taking a 20 minutes flight with Eagle Air from Reykjavík airport ore with the ferry Herjólf­­ur which sails between Land­­ eyjahöfn (about 2 hour drive from Reykja­­vík) The ferry trip takes about 35 minutes.

Visit eldheimar.is vestmannaeyjar.is

Glacier Jeeps - Ice & Adventure Glacier Jeeps - Ice & Adventure offer adventure tours with specially equipped 4WD superjeeps and skidoos, or glacier hiking tours on the great Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier.

Tours are available all year round May-Oct daily 9.30 AM and at 14.00 PM Departure from: F985 (GPS: N 64°1344,7 W 0,15° 4159,3) Oct - May please call for departure time Deperture from: Vagnsstaðir Hostel (GPS: N64° 16 09,0 - W 0,15° 4858,6 ) Minimum: 2 persons Duration: 3 hours, one hour on skodoo snowmobile.

Reservations needs to be made.

RIBSAFARI

IN WESTMAN ISLANDS ACCORDING TO TRIPADVISOR RIBSAFARI IS THE #1 ATTRACTION IN VESTMANNAEYJAR. Ribsafari offers fun and exciting entertainment in Vestmannaeyjar.Sailing around the islands in a rigid inflatable speed boat (RIB) is an experience you won’t forget. You can choose from various trips, all depending on your interest. But be warned - bouncing on the waves, while enjoying the spectacular nature, local stories, bird life and scenarios will leave you with a permanent smile.

Tel: 00354-6611810 / www.ribsafari.is Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

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PRIMAL COLOURS The explosive volcano crater Ljótipollur has a violent past but is now a home to this tranquil lake. Located in the south of the central highlands.

HIDDEN TREASURES AT SKÓGARFOSS WATERFALL Skógarfoss waterfall is one of Iceland’s biggest waterfalls. With a drop of 60 metres (200 ft) and a width of 25 metres (82 ft), it is sure to take your breath away. A Viking named Þrasi Þórólfsson was the first to settle the area and the legend says that he hid his fortune in a cave located behind the massive waterfall.

Near the Skógarfoss waterfall is the Skógar Folk Museum, which was founded in 1949 and houses an extensive collection of old artifacts from the area as well as reconstructed turf farmhouses. Equally interesting is the museum’s 93-year-old curator and founder, Þórður Tómasson. Þórður is known as an expert on the old Icelandic way of life, as he began collecting artifacts at the age of fourteen, often traveling from farm to farm to record stories from the region.

EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL From the notorious 2010 eruption which grounded flights around Europe.

KEEPING THE NATION ON EDGE A classic female name, Katla, is also the name of another of Iceland’s most active volcanoes. Historically, Katla erupts at an interval of 13 to 95 years, but its last eruption was in 1918, so 2014 marks the 96th year since its last eruption. In other words: it’s due. Katla is closely monitored with ten seismometers that detect the motion of the magma chamber only 2 km (1.24 miles) below the ice cap on top of the mountain. Icelanders are no strangers to volcanic eruptions, and the whole world remembers the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull, which grounded flights and stranded travelers across the globe due to volcanic ash clouds. Historically, Katla volcano erupts shortly after Eyjafjallajökull volcano does, but the Katla eruptions usually rate higher on the Volcanic Explosivity Index (VEI) and thus could lead to even more serious consequences than a week without airplanes.

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Iceland Magazine / ISSUE #06 2015

Explore the wonders of

WESTMAN ISLANDS

with Viking Tours and Grey Line

Gray Line: Pompey Of The North tour The Gray Line Iceland Vestmannaeyjar-Pompeii of the North tours offers round trip transportation with complimentary pick up and drop off for all major hotels and guesthouses in Reykjavik.

Included in the tour is the ferry boat, a guided natural history bus tour around Heimaey Island as well as a boat tour around all the major islands that comprise the Westman Islands.

Lunch is also included at the restaurant Gott.

Sit back, relax and enjoy the extraordinary history and bird life of the Westman Islands with Gray Line Iceland. www.grayline.is

WESTMAN ISLANDS

Phone +354-488-4884 www.vikingtours.is

www.facebook.com/VikingToursHeimaey

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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@iceland­mag.com

ICELAND MAG EXPLAINS

WITH A TWIST Matur og drykkur’s menu is a modern take on old, traditional dishes.

The head of cod is one of the more popular dishes. Photo/Björn Árnason

Authentic Icelandic Food Question: What restaurants must one try if you’d like to sample some authentic, Icelandic food? Please name both cheaper eateries and more expensive restaurants.

Answer: When faced with a plethora of tasty choices, it’s hard to pick only a few! Fish of all sorts would be the most traditionally Icelandic food, and most restaurants serve fresh fish. Try Matur og Drykkur (Grandagarður 2) for traditional dishes with a modern twist, or drop by restaurant Þrír Frakkar (Baldursgata 14) and sample their fish stew (called plokkfiskur in Icelandic). If you feel like treating yourself to a more unique culinary experience, we recommend Dill restaurant (Hverfisgata 12), where chef Gunnar cooks up delicious seasonal dishes from the freshest

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Should you be up for a little chall­ enge, why not prepare your very own traditi­ onal meal?

ingredients available. For cheaper options, visit Sægreifinn by the old harbour, or enjoy an Icelandic “pylsa með öllu” (a hot dog with all the trimmings) served at what’s known as Reykjavík’s best hot dog stand, Bæjarins Beztu on Tryggvagata.

Should you be up for a little challenge, why not prepare your very own traditional meal?

Visit the local supermarket and stock up on ready-made “lyfrapylsa” (similar to haggis), turnips, potatoes, skyr, blueberries, cream, butter, and dried fish. Begin with a little starter of dried fish topped with a generous dollop of butter. Next, boil the turnips and potatoes and make a mash to serve with cold (or hot) lyfrapylsa for your main course.

Lastly, serve skyr with rich Icelandic cream and blueberries for desert! It doesn’t get any more traditional than this.

Grindavík PROMOTION

Small & Cosy Fishing Town Grindavík is the ideal starting point for your trip in Iceland but also for your final days or even your whole trip.

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rindavík is a small and cosy fishing town on the south west corner of Iceland just 5 min­ utes away from the Blue Lagoon and some 30 minutes from the International Airport in Keflavík. In Grindavík you can spend your day hiking in the

beauti­­ful nature of Reykjanes and then spend your evening at one of our many restaurants. Fresh fish is always availa­­ ble and you can even go down to the harbour and watch the boats and the fishermen bring in catch of the day.

Finally you can spend the night at a hotel or one of the many guesthouses in town. If you bring a tent or a mobile

home we have a new state of the art campground facility which opened in the summer of 2009. The campground is a pleasure-fest for the family. The campground was designed with the camping enthusiast in mind; it includes the latest in accommodations for tents, RV´s and campers.

Check out what Grindavík has to offer at visitgrindavik.is

Adventure Tour by SeaTours PROMOTION

The freshest sushi you’ll ever try On the Unique Adventure Tour by SeaTours in Stykkishólmur village you get to taste scallops and sea urchin roe straight from the ocean.

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n the northern edge of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a beautiful village called Stykkishólmur. While the village is small, it’s rich in mythological history. Near the village, Helgafell mountain (“holy mountain”) is only 73 meters (240 ft) high, but a temple in honour of Thor, the old Norse God of Thunder, was built there by the first settlers. The mountain is also the site of the ancient burial place of an Icelandic heroine from the Sagas. For those not interested in mythology, a tour of the Library of Water, an installation in the town of Stykkisholmur by the American artist Roni Horn, is a must.

Stykkishólmur was and is a fishing town, settled in the 1550s because of its favourable position. Its location is still favourable today, and you can take your

pick from a variety of boat trips on the Breiðafjörður bay. For the adventurous traveller, there is the Unique Adventure Tour provided by SeaTours. In the span of just two hours, you get to taste scallops and sea urchin roe straight from the

ocean while catching a glimpse of puffins, cormorants, and the rugged beauty of basalt rock formations. The trip is recommended for adults and children alike. Many of the kids who have gone on the trip specifically mentioned how

much they enjoyed the captain’s stories about trolls and elves that are believed to have lived on the islands in the bay. Just make sure to book a day in advance to guarantee your spot. (Daily trips start May 9th and run through October 15th).

For those less sushi-inclined, the ferry “Baldur” will carry you across Breiða­­­ fjörður Bay with a stopover at Flatey Island. The ferry can take you over to the West­­fjords, which will shorten your driving route and enhance your Iceland experience. Baldur’s schedule and

pricing is available online. And not to worry, you’ll still be served fresh food in a floating restaurant as you make your way to Flatey Island, or past it to Brjánslækur in the North.

Visit www.seatours.is

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Iceland Magazine explains ask@iceland­mag.com

Question: Where does the Icelandic language stem from?

Answer: Icelandic is an Indo-European language, belonging to the North Germanic branch of the Germanic languages, and closely related to Norwegian and Faroese. Icelandic and Norwegian were very similar at first, but that changed around the fourteenth century, and from there on the difference between the two languages only increased.

This was mostly due to developments in Norwegian, while Icelandic resisted change—this resilience is one of the main characteristics of the language.

Language purism has been the linguistic policy in Iceland since the late 18th century. Instead of adopting foreign words, new ones are coined or old words given a new, modern meaning. This task is done by the Icelandic Language Committee, Íslensk málnefnd, which consists of sixteen specialists from different organisations.

What do you want to know about Iceland?

Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions. ask@iceland­mag.com

Hafnarbraut 42 • Höfn • Sími: +354 478 2600 • www.kaffihorn.is • kaffihornid@eldhorn.is 44

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Gjóska PROMOTION

Lava flows and northern lights Gjóska is an Icelandic design brand that produces unique woollen hats, sweaters, scarfs and coats. Hand-made on a farm in northern Iceland, Gjóska’s designs are deeply inspired by Icelandic nature and landscape.

INSPIRED BY NATURE Hand-made by Birna Kristín Friðriksdóttir, Gjóska’s designs are inspired by Icelandic nature and landscape. Photo/Stefán Karlsson

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had the idea to create a collection of woollen hats named Volcap shortly after the Eyjafjallajökull eruption began in 2010. Photos of the glowing, red lava stream on Fimmvörðuháls left me inspir­ ed and I began to design woollen hats with needle felted patterns, resembling flowing lava, running down the side of it, and then erupting into a fountain of red, orange and yellow on the top of the head,” tells Birna Kristín Friðriks­­dótt­­ ir, the founder and owner of design brand Gjóska.

Gjóska’s product range soon expanded and now also includes jumpers, scarfs, and coats.

The patterns Birna Kristín developed too, and resemble a craggy lava field, snow, moss, and flickering northern lights.

REALLY MADE IN ICELAND Birna Kristín creates her products in a studio on her farm in North Iceland, but recently opened a small boutique on Skólavörðustígur street, down-town Reykjavík. The store is frequently visited by foreign travellers who are attracted to Birna Kristín’s unique designs, and many comment on how refreshing it is to find

something other than the traditional woollen sweater being made from Icelandic wool.

“My designs are made from Icelandic wool, in Iceland and are inspired by the beautiful Icelandic nature and landscapes. I’m very proud

enjoy keeping up with their world travels,” she says, giving a hearty laugh. Birna Kristín intends to continue to expand her business even further in the near future, but is adamant about keeping production in Iceland.

of that and we have begun to label our designs as ‘really made in Iceland’,” she says. Adding: “It is fun knowing that my designs are now worn all around the world, from South Africa, to Australia, and all over Europe and the U.S. I

“My dream is to be able to design patterns for knitted textiles in addition to needle felting. But I’m determined to keep production in Iceland and continue working with the Icelandic wool,” she concludes.

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LANDMANNALAUGAR REGION

FROM THE LANDMANNALAUGAR REGION Iceland’s central interior is uninhabited. You will encounter quite a few mountain lodges, but it›s mostly vast wilderness. Please do not leave a paper trail behind. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Don’t Do This Some hikers leave a very unpleasant paper trail.

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rynhildur Ólafsdóttir, a tour guide, told The Icelandic National Broadcasting Service earlier in July that tourists need to learn how to behave in nature, and to take all trash with them, including their toilet paper.

“At some popular destinations, you see toilet paper all over the place. Even along popular hiking trails like Laugavegurinn [between Þórsmörk nature reserve and the Landmannalaugar region in the central highlands] and Fimmvörðuháls.”

She adds that such mementos of previous hikers’ visits threaten to seriously under­­ mine the quality of the experiences of others who come to view pristine and unspoiled natural wonders.

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TAKE EVERYTHING WITH YOU!

“If you leave the trail you are likely to find toilet paper in every hole and under every rock. And then it blows around in the wind.” The reason, she points out, is that the summer is short and the ele­­ ments fail to break down the paper. “It doesn‘t just disappear like that. Even if it gets wet, and then covered with snow, you still have remains a year later. And it’s getting to be a real nuisance in many places.”

Brynhildur urges all hikers and travelers to carry small bags with them so that they can take their toilet paper with them. She points out that tourists should never leave anything behind—not even food remains.

ALSO BANANA SKINS AND APPLE CORES

At some popular destinations, you see toilet paper all over the place.”

“It makes no difference if your trash is biological. The person arriving after you does not want to see banana peels or spaghetti or apple cores. It’s no fun to visit a natural wonder only to be greeted by the remainder of your lunch.”

We at Iceland Magazine second that opinion and urge all visitors to remember that the first rule of traveling is that you leave everything in the same condition you found it, ensuring that you don’t spoil the experience for those who come after you.

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

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Langjökull Ice Cave Experience!

SRE-96 • DAILY DEPARTURE • MONSTER TRUCK RIDE

WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND

Imagine standing on an ice cap reaching 600 metres below your feet!

NEW TOUR

EXPERIENCE A GREAT DAY WITH US!

More tours available on our website www.re.is

Free WiFi

AND IN OUR BROCHURES!

R O

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •

+354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.is • www.re.is