Issue 05 2015
Photographer Páll Stefánsson’s opus to Iceland
P 26
Iceland’s Ark of Taste
P 32
Guide: Street Food in Reykjavík
P 48
T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
Yo ur
FR E
Ec op y
p.36
Go East
14 Reasons to Visit The East of Iceland
p.20
Revisiting the Viking Era
Four interesting excavated sites around Iceland Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
Blue Lagoon Multiple departures daily
Vestmannaeyjar Pompeii of the North
Daily departures
Golden Circle 6 departures daily
Book your tour now! iceland@grayline.is | +354 540 1313 | grayline.is
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Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike 2 departures daily
Whale Watching Daily departures
Snæfellsnes Peninsula Daily departures
24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Sales Office, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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Contents from the editor
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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
Tourism’s Social Impact
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nlike the economic and environmental effects of tourism, the cultural and social impact on the nation has been strangely absent from the discussion in Iceland. The impact of tourism has been fast and dramatic. In about half a decade, the number of visitors has roughly doubled, from 600.000 in 2010 to a forecasted 1.2 million this year. The economic influence has been rightly celebrated. Tourism is the single most important factor in Iceland bouncing back relatively fast from its banking Armageddon, which left the nation on its knees in 2008. The environmental part has raised some concerns, mostly because the government has reacted very slowly to the added pressure on the country’s infrastructure. But tourism’s social influence has hardly been discussed at all. There is one exception, and that one is quite controversial. Tour companies keep running buses and vans in and out of the narrow streets of Reykjavík’s densely populated downtown area. This has stirred up immense frustration among the locals, with buses blocking streets and bike paths, and generally slowing down traffic. The funny thing is, while this has been labeled “a tourist prob lem,” it has in fact nothing to do with our visitors from abroad. The culprits are the Icelandic bus drivers, who, like the rest of the nation, are not very considerate while behind the wheel of a car. Downtown’s bus conflict has now reached a tipping point, and city officials must team up with the bus companies and the police to sort out the mess. But regarding the social impact of tourism, we Icelanders are not likely to pick up any new bad habits from the hordes of visitors. We are already famous for our love of late-night revelry, promiscuity, and lack of discipline (when it comes to forming an orderly queue, as can be seen outside bars and clubs on weekends!)—to name just a few things that blight our behavior in general. Maybe you, dear visitor, can help us to improve?
20 Contents 6-18 Lookout 6 Restaurant with a view 8 Channel your inner Viking & Bicycling in Reykjavík 10 With subtitles 12 The mighty glacial river 14-18 Iceland’s only circus on tour, Gásir medieval festival, photography in an old herring factory and more highlights ahead. 20 Then & Now Neil McMahon moved to Iceland 40 years ago as a young archaeology student when literature and history were still considered to give the best insights into the country’s past. Now things have changed. 26 The Perfect Moment Páll Stefánsson, a multiple winner of the Photographer of the Year award in Iceland, is publishing a new book. 32 Iceland’s Ark of Taste The Ark of Taste is an international list of products of endangered heritage foods that is maintained by the global Slow Food movement. It is designed to preserve at-risk foods that are sustainably produced, unique in taste, and part of a distinct ecoregion 36 14 Reasons to visit the East of Iceland From glaciers and volcanoes, vast highland expanses and deserts completely untouched by humans to narrow fjords flanked by mountains and high sea cliffs crowded with birds, East Iceland is a world on its own. There are many reasons to visit the are; we name a few.
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Jóna María Hafsteinsdóttir jmh@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir,, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: From Lake Lagarljót in East Iceland (see p. 36). Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
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Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
46 The street food of Reykjavík Not just hot dogs any more: Iceland Magazine guide. Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
52 Iceland Magazine Explains What not to miss when visiting West Iceland? 54 Bankers Behind Bars Now you can take a guided tour through the causes and consequences of the collapse of Iceland’s banking system in 2008.
Iceland’s largest shopping center Only a 10 minute drive from Reykjavík city center! Around 100 shops and businesses with world renowned brands.
Come for a visit and shop tax free
OPIÐ: VIRKA DAGA 11-19 FIMMTUDAGA 11-21 LAUGARDAGA 11-18 SUNNUDAGA 13-18 WWW.SMARALIND.IS FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM
Lookout Bjargarsteinn restaurant
Great views Bjargarsteinn stands on the seafront and has an unhindered view of Mt. Kirkjufell, Grundarfjörður’s landmark mountain. Photo/Olga at Bjargarsteinn
Family friendly restaurant with a stunning view
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Bjargarsteinn restaurant in Grundarfjörður, Snæfellsnes peninsula, boasts a fantastic view, an interesting history, and delicious food.
n Snæfellsnes peninsula, in the harbour area of Grundarfjörður town, stands a small corrugated iron house named Bjargarsteinn. The house was transported 140 kilometres (87 miles) from Akranes to its current location, where it will take on a new role as a restaurant. Run by seasoned chef Guðbrand ur Gunnar Garðarsson, his wife Selma Rut Þorkelsdóttir, and her parents Þorkell Gunnar Þor kelsson and Olga Sædís Einarsdóttir, the eatery will open for business around the 20th of July. Originally, the small building stood in Akranes, West Iceland, before being moved to Borgarnes, where it was restored. “I saw the house every time I passed through Borgarnes and often wondered whether it wouldn’t make a nice little coffee shop. How ever, it has grown considerably in size since its arrival here in Grundarfjörður, because we want ed to be able to accommodate everyone and to make it wheelchair accessible,” Gunnar explains. In addition to Bjargarsteinn, the pair has run two restaurants for a number of years in the neighbouring town of Stykkishólmur, located a short 30-minute drive east of Grundarfjörður.
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“Olga, my wife, was born and raised here in Grundarfjörður, and it was always our plan to eventually settle down here. We’ll continue to run all three restaurants along with our amazing employees.” Bjargarsteinn’s menu caters to both local and international taste buds and will include seasonal dishes that are bound to be a delicious treat for all food connoisseurs. During the day, they’ll serve coffee, cakes, and light courses, but in the
with an open-air dining area that has an incredi ble view over the town’s landmark mountain, Mt. Kirkjufell, as well as a humble shed where Gunnar intends to dry fish (harðfiskur) and smoke meat. “The old shed was a wreck, to say the least. But we rebuilt it and now look forward to invit ing our guests over to try some dry fish, smoked meat, and fermented shark accompanied by a shot of Icelandic schnapps.” Although most
“Olga, my wife, was born and raised here in Grundarfjörður, and it was always our plan to eventually settle down here. We’ll continue to run all three restaurants along with our amazing employees.” evenings there will be generous portions of quality food made from good, local ingredients. “We’re proud to say that rather than offering a special children’s menu that includes fries and burgers, children can enjoy the same menu, but in smaller portions, as their parents.” A taste of the old The culinary experience is not merely confined within the walls of the old house. The restaurant also boasts a fantastic outdoor space, complete
foreign visitors are eager to taste old Icelandic culinary delights such as fermented shark, Gunnar says it’s not to everyone’s liking. “It’s an acquired taste. One of our restaurants in Stykkis hólmur once got a terrible review on Tripadvisor because of the fermented shark. The people really, really did not like the smell or taste of it,” he concludes with a hearty laugh. See: Bjargarsteinn’s Facebook page.
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Buy your prepaid SIM card at BSI bus terminal, Vodafone stores, N1 gas stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.
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Lookout Mink Viking Portrait
Find your inner Viking Guðmann Þór Bjargmundsson owns Mink Viking Portrait, a small company offering unique souvenirs to bring home from Iceland. The backdrop is made from driftwood and was built by Guðmann himself. Photo/Mink Viking Portrait
Get in touch with your wild side Mink Viking Portrait allows you to channel your inner Viking and bring home an amazing souvenir.
I’ve been involved with photo graphy and cinematography from a young age and I’ve always been curious about Vikings and the Norse prophetesses. My father owned all the Icelandic Sagas when I was growing up, so I guess that’s where the idea to open Mink Viking Portrait was born,” says cine matographer Guðmann Þór Bjarg mundsson, who owns and runs Mink Viking Portrait, a small company offering unique souvenirs of Iceland. Guðmann Þór’s customers channel their inner Viking by dressing up in traditional Viking attire and brandis hing weapons while they pose for the lens of his camera. And the results are intense and ferocious photographs— memories to last a lifetime.
Bike around! Rent a bike from Kex Hostel’s new bike rental and enjoy more of Reykjavík!
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ex Hostel has opened up a bicycle rental where guests can rent a bike for the day and enjoy all that Reykjavík has to offer. The bikes are customised by the bicycle store Berlín, located at Snorrabraut, so you’ll look your best while cycling around the city centre. The rental is open daily from 9 am until 7 pm.
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“People begin with choosing their outfit and weapon of choice and then the action starts. I take on the role of dresser, director, and cameraman, and usually have to direct people a little; tell them where to look and how to pose. You need to look determined and fierce to pull a convincing Viking. Usually people really get into it and end up having a blast,” he explains. The items of clothing and the arms were accumulated through friends of Guðmann’s who are costume designers and members of the Viking society Rimmugýgur (named after the sword Rimmugýgur from Njáls Saga). “I’ve been meaning to join
Rimmugýgur for years now, but have never managed to find the time. Instead of joining the Vikings, I create them,” Guðmann concludes with a laugh. One of Guðmann’s former custom ers, a woman who’d come in to have her photograph taken two years ago, recently contacted the photographer to tell him that she had sent her Viking photographs to a casting agent for the popular television series ‘Vikings.’ Needless to say, the woman was cast as an extra on the show and was asked to bring her outfit with her to the set—which she couldn’t do, since the costume was in Iceland.
See: mink.is Where: Laugavegur 11 Price: 14.900 ISK per person for 6 digital photos Duration: 45 – 60 min
The price for half a day is 4,900 ISK (33 Euros/37 US dollars), while a whole day costs a reasonable 7,900 ISK (53 Euros/60 US dollars). Half a day is from 9 am until 2 pm or from 2 pm until 7 pm. We recommend you take a tour along the ocean front to the Grótta lighthouse where you can rest your feet in the small geothermal pool by the sea shore. Another interesting route is to cycle to Laugardalur valley where you can enjoy a lovely lunch in the botanical gardens.
More Kex Hostel has opened up a bicycle rental where guests can rent a bike for the day and enjoy all that Reykjavík has to offer.
Lookout Hrútar
Ramtastic The award-winning film Rams (Hrútar) will be shown with English subtitles in Háskólabíó cinema.
Enjoy Icelandic culture at the movies The award-winning film Rams (Hrútar), directed by Grímur Hákonarson, will be shown with English subtitles in the Háskólabíó cinema in central Reykjavík this summer.
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he film won the “Un Certain Regard” prize at this year’s Cannes Film Festival and is the first Icelandic film to be selected in that category since 1993.
ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS ENN 73826 03/15
www.n1.is
The drama tells of two brothers who live in a remote valley in North Iceland. The brothers, played by Sigurður and Theodór, haven’t spoken to each other in forty years but are forced to
cooperate in order to save their beloved sheep and their prizewinning rams. The film was largely built on Grímur’s own experience of the Icelandic countryside and acquaintance with rural people.
Where: Hagatorg roundabout in Vesturbær, Reykjavík Where: Daily at 5:30 pm
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While you might stop for fuel, you can stay for the food, travel necessities, books and magazines, or grab a cup of coffee before heading out again.
N1 operates a network of 95 locations all around Iceland. That means you’re never far away from the energy you need for your journey.
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a To find your nearest location and plan your trip, log on to www.n1.is/locations
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Keep moving
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Inside the Volcano Take part in a great adventure. Descend 120 metres into a volcano and explore an underground world.
I have never been anywhere underground that matches the grandeur and impact of this place.
- The Sunday Times
Standing inside a volcano is a strangely emotional experience.
- The Guardian
One of twenty places in the world you must see before you die.
- CNN
Book now at: InsideTheVolcano.com
at: InsideTheVolcano.com Price: ISK 39,000 per person
More info at InsideTheVolcano.com
For the first time in history, travelers have the opportunity to see what a volcano looks like on the inside. Descend into a 4.000 year old magma chamber and experience a new underground world. • Several departures a day • Maximum 15 people in each tour • Duration: 5-6 hours • Minimum age: 12 years • Fitness level needed: Moderate. No knowledge of hiking or climbing is required. knowledge of hiking or climbing is required
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A Mighty Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
The many branches of the mighty glacial river Jökulsá á fjöllum are an impressive sight seen from above. The largest glacial floods known to have happened in Iceland burst along the riverbeds of Jökulsá several thousand years ago, leaving lasting scars in the form of the massive Jökulsárgljúfur canyon and the beautiful Ásbyrgi gorge. The source of the river is Vatnajökull glacier, Iceland’s and Europe’s largest ice mass. - jk Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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Lookout highlights ahead
Music mishmash The music festival Bræðslan is a friendly affair, focusing on great music in the amazing surroundings of Borgarfjörður eystri, a small village with 130 inhabitants. This year’s festival features music acts such as Dimma, Ensími, Lára Rúnars, and the very popular Prins Póló and Valdimar. When: 25th of July See: braedslan.com
Young art
Days of the Irish The inhabitants of Akranes claim to be of Irish origin and have therefore named their annual town festival ‘Írskir dagar’ (Irish Days). The fishing village will be decked out in green, white and orange (the colours of the Irish flag), and townspeople will compete over who has the most beautiful red hair. Family activities, flea markets, and concerts will also be part of this year’s schedule.
LungA is an annual art festival taking place in the charming village of Seyðisfjörður. The festival celebrates creativity, art, and culture through a week of art workshops, lectures and other activities, finishing off with a weekend of concerts and exhibitions. This year’s line-up includes Sykur, Grísalappalísa, and DJ Geimskip og flugvél. When: 12th to 19th of July See: lunga.is
When: When: 3rd of July
Hard rock If metal music is your thing, then you should definitely make your way to the lovely village of Neskaupstaður in July to enjoy the best metal music Iceland has to offer. Eistnaflug, Iceland’s only metal festival, was first held in 2005. It has since grown dramatically in size, but has always managed to maintain its friendly atmosphere. The line-up usually counts around 40 bands, most of which are Icelandic. When: 8th to 11th of July See: eistnaflug.is/en
Schedule
Clowning around Sirkús Íslands’ shows include acrobatics, unicycles, and, of course, clowns.The tent Iceland’s first and only circus, Sirkús Íslands, is touring the country this summer.
Old fashioned family fun!
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celand’s first and only circus, Sirkús Íslands, is touring the country this summer and will set up camp in Siglufjörður, the Westman Islands, Fáskrúðsfjörður, and Reykjavík, among other places. The circus offers three different acts, each aimed at a different age group: ‘Heima er best’ is a family show, S.I.R.K.U.S. is a show for the youngest crowd, and Skinnsemi is a show for adults only. The acts feature little or no talking, making it the ideal amusement for non-Icelandic speakers as well as natives. ‘Heima er best’ is Sirkús Íslands’ biggest show. The two-hour event includes juggling, hula hoops, aerial acts, acro batics, unicycles, and, of course, clowns.
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Check out one, or all, of Sirkús Íslands’ circus shows! Iceland’s only circus will be touring the country this summer.
Westman Islands
2nd – 5 th July Klambratún Park, Reykjavík
9th -12th July “We’re very excited to begin touring,” says Margrét Erla Maack, a member of Sirkús Íslands. “Our workdays will be long because we take care of everything ourselves: Put up the circus tent, star in the show, cook, clean, and drive. But we truly love every aspect of it.” Three of the circus’ founding members have studied circus arts at Codarts, an international university in Holland providing high-level professional arts edu cation in music, dance, and circus arts. “They come home every summer with something new and exciting to teach the rest of us – which is great,” Margrét Erla concludes.
Blönduós, North Iceland
16 th – 19th July Fáskrúðsfjörður, East Iceland
23rd - 26 th July Siglufjörður, North Iceland
30th July – 3rd August Klambratún Park, Reykjavík
7th – 23rd August See more: sirkusislands.is
Shows: Wednesday through Sunday
The Ambassador Whale Watching promotion
Admiring Whales in Calm Waters Whale-watching with the Ambassador in Akureyri is much more than just seeing whales.
watching me? The wildlife is abundant in the magnificent Eyjafjörður fjord in North Iceland. The Ambassador’s trip also takes you by some of Iceland’s most historic places.
C
onsider this: the success rate for sighting humpback whales in Ambassador’s whale-watching tours is over 96%. That’s im pressive indeed! Throw into the equation that the trips are taken in the pristine calm waters of Akureyri (Eyjaförður fjord) in North Iceland, where the wildlife is abundant and the surrounding landscape is spectacularly beautiful, and you have the recipe for the whalewatching trip of a lifetime. A custom-built vessel “Someone getting seasick during our tours is almost unheard off,” says Magnús Guðjónsson, captain at Ambassador, a tour company in Akureyri that specializes in whale-watching. Akureyri is the largest urban area in Iceland outside of the capital area, and the town is tucked into the bottom of Eyjafjörður fjord, which happens to be one of the calmest areas on this otherwise wind-battered island. Magnús ex plains that Eyjafjörður is such a hot spot for whale-watching because, just a short sail from Akureyri’s harbor, the fjord is sheltered from wind by large mountains towering into the sky on both sides. The Ambassador whale-watching boat will ensure that you feel safe while scouting the waters for whales, as it’s a German-built police vessel equipped with six different viewing platforms, custom-made for whale watching.
The world’s largest animal The Ambassador leaves from Torfunesbryggja Harbour in the heart of Akureyri, and the trip takes approximately three hours. The whales you may encounter include the white-beaked dolphin, the minke whale, and (almost every time—remember the 96%) one of the largest animals on earth, the humpback whale.
Experince of a lifetime The humpback sighting success is 96%.
The Ambassador departs from the harbour up to three times a day from May through October. The trip takes you by some of Iceland’s most historic places: for example, the old Viking trading post Gásir and what is left of one of the grandest fish factories ever built in Iceland. The guides on board have an abundance of know ledge about the area and cover everything from folklore to the fjord’s ecosystem, from history to geology. Whale-watching with the Ambassador is so much more than just seeing whales.
The never-ending daylight tour Speaking of more than “just seeing whales,” the Ambassador offers a midnight sun cruise that shouldn’t be missed. Every Icelander’s favourite time of year is high summer, when the sun never sets and the days seem to (and really do) last forever. With Ambassador, you can cash in on this never-ending daylight by enjoying a cruise through Eyjafjörður fjord and around Hrísey island. You’ll still be able to catch glimpses of whales, birds, and other wildlife, as you sail through the night in complete relaxation and awe. If the midnight sun has come and gone during your visit to Akureyri, you needn’t worry. The Ambassador offers an equally spectacular tour with no sun, but a sky lit up by the Northern lights. As many know, the intensity of the Aurora Borealis activity is highest in the Arctic, making the North of Iceland, which happens to stretch into the Arctic, a prime spot for a natural light show. Whatever your preference may be, the Am bassador is sure to meet and exceed your expectations. The top deck of the vessel offers a 360° panoramic view, the indoor cabin is heated and includes toilet facilities, and should you get hungry while sailing, you can choose from a selection of snacks and beverages available on board.
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Lookout Highlights ahead
Celebrate the end of an eruption The people of Heimaey Island celebrate Goslokahátíð on the 3 – 5 of July to commemorate the end of the 1973 eruption.
Much to celebrate The people of Heimaey Island celebrate Goslokahátíð on the 3 – 5 of July to commemorate the end of the 1973 eruption. Photo/Pétur Steingrímsson
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n the 23rd of January 1973, a huge volcanic eruption began without any warning on the out skirts of Vestmannaeyjar town on Heimaey Island, south of Iceland. The event forced the entire popu lation to evacuate their homes and set sail to mainland Iceland. It was
a stroke of good luck that, because of a storm the previous day, most of the town’s fishing fleet lay in the harbour that night. This meant evacuating the island went swiftly, the first ship leaving the harbour at around 02.30 am and the last one four hours later. Roughly 300 vol 0unteers and rescue workers stayed
on and tried to minimise the dam age as best they could. On the 3rd of July, 1973, it was formally announced that the erup tion was finally over. By the end of 1974, about half of the inhabitants had returned to their homes on the island, and by March 1974, that number had grown to 80 percent. Locals celebrate the end of the eruption each year during the first weekend in July. Among the many festivities taking place that week end are concerts, exhibitions, and games and activities for children. The weekend’s highlight is on Sat urday evening when the baiting sheds by the harbour are turned into concert venues with live music.
12-Hour Music Festival
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he great Kex Hostel will be the most fun place in Reykjavík on 18 July when the annual KEXPort music festival kicks off at noon. Twelve bands and solo artists are performing, one act every hour until midnight. Performing this year are Emmsjé Gauti, Sóley, Teitur Magnússon,… The festival is held in collaboration with Se attle radio station KEXP-FM. Admission is free. Where: Kex Hostel, Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík.
See more at kexhostel.is
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Price: Adults: 33€ Children (7-15) 15.5€ Children (0-6) FREE
WE GO THE EXTRA MILE!
Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is
Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour
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Sea Angling daily at 17:00
Price: Adults: 72€ Children (7-15) 36€ Children (0-6) FREE *Jun, Jul & Aug
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Great collection, good prices and handknitted sweaters made in Iceland. Choose the real Lopapeysa.
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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Lookout Highlights ahead
Winter Mood Nine photographers, from around the world, participate in Steypa 2015. Left: photo by Clasus Sterneck. Right: photo by Rene Susanne.
Art In a Deserted Herring Factory
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The STEYPA photography exhibition takes place in an old herring processing plant in Djúpavík in the remote and rugged Strandir region.
he STEYPA photography exhibition takes place for the third time this year in the old herring factory in Djúpavík. The factory building was constructed in 1934 and was Iceland’s largest concrete building at the time.
The factory closed down twenty years later and now functions as an exhibition space. The artists participating in this year’s exhi bition come from all over the world, including the US, Germany, Denmark, Iceland, Belgium, and Switzerland. The exhibition will run until August 31st. Entrance is free of charge..– SM
Recreating the Middle Ages
Going back in time at Gásir in Eyjafjörður fjord, North Iceland
edieval Days, a festival celebrating the Middle Ages and the trading post in Iceland, will be held at Gásir from the 17th to the 19th of July this summer. Various events, all in the spirit of the Middle Ages, will be going on over the course of the weekend, and a real effort is made to keep everything as authentic as possible. This includes, but is not limited to, sailing on a boat built from a detailed drawing from ancient scriptures; historic stone throws; lessons in archery; and demonstrations on how sulfur was used to create gunpowder. Also, food from the Middle Ages will be for sale. (Not to worry, it’s only based on recipes from the Middle Ages—It’s not centuries old!). The Gásir area is located in Eyjafjörður fjord, North Iceland, approximately 11 kilometers (6.8 miles) north of the town of Akureyri. Gásir was the main trading post in North Iceland during the Middle Ages and is mentioned multiple times in the old Icelandic sagas of the 13th and 14th centuries. Archaeological finds in the area suggest that Gásir was a trading post up to the 16th century, and the whole area is now protected by law in order to preserve this national monument. This is the twelfth year that the Medieval Days festival is being held at Gásir.
BULLSEYE You can take archery lessons at the Medieval Days festival. Photo/Akureyri Museum
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What: STEYPA photography exhibition When: Daily from 9 am until 6 pm
See: djupavik.com
Icelandic Highlands
promotion
Highland oasis Kýlingar area, in the Friðland að Fjallabaki region. Photo/Roar Aagestad
Save the Icelandic Highlands – the Heart of Iceland Please help us protect the Icelandic Highlands and contribute to our efforts by signing the pledge on our website www.heartoficeland.org
O
ver the last few decades, the Icelandic Highlands have been under siege, threatened by increasing pressure to build power plants, paved roads, and power lines. That demand comes from energy companies but 80% of all electricity produced in Iceland is sold to polluting industries, such as aluminum smelters. The Icelandic Highlands form one of the largest territories in Europe, south of the Arctic Circle, which has never been inhabited or cultivated and are considered one of the last great wild ernesses in Europe. In a Capacent-Gallup poll in 2015, the majority of respondents (over 60%) said they favored a national park in the Highlands and 80% of tourists name nature as a main reason for visiting Iceland. We need your help to protect our pristine nature in the Highlands.
The map of Iceland These are the proposed plans in the highlands. 220kW high voltage overhead power line over Sprengisandur plateau, built up paved roads over Kjölur and Sprengisandur plateau and up to fifteen new power plants. Read more about the proposed plans and their effects at www.heartoficeland.org
Landvernd, the Icelandic Environ ment Association, is an NGO that was founded in 1969. It is the largest environmental NGO in Iceland with 3900 members. Landvernd focuses on environmental education,
environmental management and en vironmental policy- and protection in Iceland. One of Landvernd´s biggest battles at the moment, is the fight to protect the Highlands of Iceland from energy production.
Learn more about Landvernd here www.landvernd.is/en
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Stöng Commonwealth Farm The farm is a fine reconstruction of one of over 20 houses in this once-fertile valley in South Iceland. Photo/Gernot Keller
Then
& Now
Neil McMahon moved to Iceland 40 years ago as a young archaeology student when literature and history were still considered to give the best insights into the country’s past. Now things have changed.
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Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
E
ven though it’s over forty years ago, I can still vividly remember many of my first impressions of Iceland. Having to go though a US military checkpoint when driving out of Keflavik interna tional airport, the blonde-complex ioned, homogeneous local population speaking at breakneck speed a langu age I didn’t understand a single word of. The corrugated roofed houses in an array of colours, and the big American cars I’d only seen in movies. There were the amazing swimming pools with their hot pots and, since beer was banned, my initiation into drinking the hugely popular local schnapps, brennivín, aka the Black Death, mixed with Coke. Here I was, then, in Iceland of the early seventies, a young Irish lad just graduated in archae ology, registered for a year’s postgraduate work at the country’s national university.
The poor cousin The Monday after my arrival I went to the university’s office and enquired as to where the archaeology department was. A rather bemused secretary told me there was no such department, archaeology was merely a subject taught within the history department. And so, for the year, I attended lectures in history and got an introduction to archaeological studies in Ice land. I could clearly sense that archaeology was the poor cousin of history and Icelandic literature. In a country boasting such a rich literary heritage, where many, up until recently, firmly believed the medieval family sagas to be gospel truth, there seemed no need to look elsewhere for verification as to how life was in the past. The few archaeological excavations that had been carried out were done by Danes and one Icelander educated in Sweden, Kristján Eldjárn, who went on to become the Republic´s third president in 1968.
Number of noteworthy excavations Fast forward to 2015 and you encounter an Iceland that’s in total contrast to what it was in the seventies, with perhaps the single exception of the amazing swimming pools and the painted corrugated roofs. The American military have left, over eight percent of Reykjavik´s population is foreign, the big American gas-guzzling cars have all been replaced by fuel-efficient Japanese, German, and South Korean models, beer is no longer banned and nobody would dream of mixing brennivín and Coke. And on the academic front, Icelanders are at last willing to question the veracity of the sagas and archaeology is now a respectable and popular department on a par with history in the university. How times have changed!Within Iceland’s academic sector, there’s a clear recognition that archaeology is a multi-faceted discipline that can provide valuable insights into the country’s past. Thanks to state funding and a new generation of dedicated Icelandic archaeologists, often teaming up with foreign universities, a number of noteworthy excavations have been carried out in recent years that visitors to Iceland should definitely consider checking out. Four particularily interesting excavated sites are listed on the following pages. What all of have in common is the light they shed on the unique building techniques used by the early settlers. Because of a shortage of wood and stone, Icelanders ingeniously used sods of turf like bricks to build their houses. In a subtle and seamless way, these houses seemed like an extension of nature itself. This technique has survived in an unbroken line right down to the pres ent day and even in Reykjavik you can see modern buildings that incorpo rate turf roofing into the design. In the 20th-century rush to modernize, Icelanders almost ashamedly turned their backs on turf houses, associating them with a past racked by poverty and hardship. Today however, there is a growing realization that the turf house is a re markable construction that is well worthy of a place in the history of world architecture. Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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Four particularily interesting excavated sites around Iceland
Stöng Commonwealth Farm in South Iceland. Here at Stöng is a fine reconstruction of one of over 20 houses in this once-fertile valley, destroyed in a massive eruption of the volcano Hekla in 1104. Several houses were excavated by a team of Nordic archaeo logists in 1939 and the reconstruction of the best-pre served one in 1974 was part of the nation’s celebration of eleven hundred years of settlement. To commemor ate Iceland’s adoption of Christianity in 1000 AD, a turfclad stave church was erected nearby in the year 2000. Photo/Thomas Ormston
Skriðuklaustur in East Iceland. This Augustinian monastery was the last to be established in Iceland in 1493, before they were all closed in 1552 with the coming of the Reformation. An extensive three-year excavation starting in 2002 revealed the monastery’s unusually large structure, as well as numerous sketetal remains and artifacts. The evidence showed that the monastery was not just a centre of prayer and education, but also served as a hospital and hospice. The internationally known Icelandic writer Gunnur Gunnarsson built an impressive house at Skriðuklaustur in the 1940s. Today the manor house is a cultural centre that offers exhibitions, cultural events, and guided tours around the house and the archaeological site. Photos/Valli
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www.arnartr.com
the warmth of Iceland Varma is dedicated to maintaining Icelandic tradition in developing, designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling.
Varma is available in various tourist shops around Iceland
The Húsavík WHALE Museum Open june, july & august 08:30 – 18:30 daily
Visit Ic e l a n dm ag .c o m
Your source for daily news from Iceland, local tips & expertise www.icelandmag.com
www.whalemuseum.is Hafnarstétt 1 Húsavík Tel: +354414 2800 E-info@whalemuseum.is
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Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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The Settlement Exhibition 871±2 in Reykjavik: Located right smack in the city’s oldest street, Aðalstræti, this museum provides information on the findings of an archaeological excavation from 2001 of a tenth-century Viking longhouse, one of the first turf houses built in Iceland. Some even suggest that this could well be the homestead of the country’s first permanent settler, Ingólfur Arnarson, who is reputed to have set up home hereabouts in the 870s, thus the unique name of the museum. In an imaginative and informative way, the exhibition uses multimedia technology to recreate what life was like for those early settlers.
Eiríkstaðir in West Iceland: Excavations here in 1997-99 revealed a modest-sized turf-built longhouse said to be the homestead of the notorious Viking, Erik the Red, discoverer and namer of Greenland. If this is so, then it’s also the birthplace of his equally famous son, Leif the Lucky, discoverer of America. Based on the archaeological evidence, a full-scale replica house was built a stone’s throw away in 1999. Open to visitors, it gives a fascinating insight into life in the Viking Age. The guided tour on offer is both informative and highly entertaining. Photo/Maja
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The Lake Mývatn
promotion
The Great Lake Myvatn The Lake Mývatn area in North Iceland offers a unique natural environment.
W
ith large contrasts and small distances you can experience the most and the best that Iceland has to offer. Large open spaces with roads and walkways lead travellers to interesting locations, were volcanic
eruptions have played a crucial role in shaping the landscape. Whether the plan is to enjoy the land scape, examine unique natural pheno mena or take a closer look at the plant and bird life, Lake Mývatn has it all. Furthermore the area offers a variety of
MÝVATN TOURS will take you there!
www.askjatours.is - askjatours@myvatntours.is - tel.+354 464 1920
services in accommodation, food and entertainment, based on years of experi ence and knowledge. A large number of travellers visit Lake Mývatn in the summer, but many believe the lake and its surroundings to be no less impressive in the wintertime.
Visit visithusavik.com /attractions/ lake-myvatn/
Guesthouses are at a quiet location with a great view. From them is a beautiful walking path on Sandfell and the location is perfect for sightseeing trips to Þingeyjarsýsla’s and lake Mývatn´s most beautiful places. Access to two hot tubs. Guesthouse Stöng in Mývatnssveit 660 Mývatn | Iceland | Tel: 354 464 4252 / 8966074 stongmy@emax.is Gps N 65° 33.699 W 017° 14.266
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The Perfect Moment Photos by Páll Stefánsson
One of the few photographers in Iceland who are household names is Páll Stefánsson. He has been travelling high and low around Iceland with his cameras since 1983. He shoots people, but mainly landscape.
ISBN-13: 978–9935–420–56–5
Iceland Exposed
9 789935 420565
Páll Stefánsson
Iceland Exposed New book by Páll Stefánsson
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The wonderful sub-arctic light is Páll’s personal friend; it touches the mountain top whenever he wishes. Or maybe he is just a very patient man with the instinct of a hunter, knowing when and where to put down his tripod to capture the perfect moment.? Páll is a multiple winner of the Photographer of the Year award in Iceland and has received awards from Time, Life, and Europress. Páll has published more than 30 books and shot more than 300 magazine covers. He is the editor and chief photographer for Iceland Review magazine but has also worked for The New York Times, Geo, UNICEF, Leica Cameras, Condé Nast Traveler, Hasselblad, UNESCO, and SONY, to name just a few. Páll has just published a new book. It’s called Iceland Exposed and is a grand photographic opus on Iceland with an introduction written by Haraldur Sigurðsson, a world-renowned volcanologist and the owner of the great Volcano Museum in the town of Stykkishólmur, west Iceland. Included in the book are also a few short personal essays by Páll, or short stories from his travels around Iceland. On the right page is one example.
Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
Sólheimajökull glacier An outlet glacier in the much larger Mýrdalsjökull glacier in South Iceland.
Sólheimajökull The southernmost glacier in the country, called Sólheimajökull, is a glacial tongue that extends south from its big brother, Mýrdalsjökull. Between the Ring Road and the tongue runs a six-kilometer stretch from which you can catch a glimpse of Dyrhólaey, the southernmost point in the country. The glaciers are retreating; Sólheimajökull is retreating the fastest. It has withdrawn a few kilometers since I first went there. And
it’s never the same from one time to the next. In this glacier world the light intensifies, reflects off the white and black ice. There, the rainbow becomes strongest. I know. I’ve seen it, armed with my camera. One autumn, I went there with my friend RAX, the photographer Ragnar Axelsson. I went up on the glacier, hypnotised by all the rainbows, the light. After hours of hard work, I came back down to find RAX sitting in the
car. He played me his favourite song and it resonated in the stillness. Happy, I told him about my victories, how I had beaten the light and the slippery ice far up on the glacier. Then darkness came. I had forgotten to take off my lens cap. I didn’t realise it until I unfastened the Linhof film camera with viewfinder on top, from the tripod. RAX’s song never became my favourite song. -PS Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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Upptyppingar Tuff mountains located in the north central highlands.
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From the Holuhraun eruption The spectacular eruption in the north central highlands lasted 181 days, from August 2014 to February 2015.
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Tha Landmannalaugar region The blue gree mountains are called Grænagil or Green Ravine. You can see why.
Páll Stefánsson’s new book, Iceland Exposed, is out in June.
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The Ark of Taste is an international list of products of endangered heritage foods that is maintained by the global Slow Food movement. It is designed to preserve at-risk foods that are sustainably produced, unique in taste, and part of a distinct ecoregion. The Ark was conceived in Italy in 1996 and has since grown considerably in size. To be included in the Ark, a food product must fulfil a number of criteria, such as being linked to a specific area or tradition, be produced in limited quantities and be at risk of extinction. Several Icelandic food products meet the criteria and have been included in the Ark of Taste.
Fermented shark Known as kæstur hákarl in Icelandic, fermented shark is traditionally eaten in the old Norse month of Þorri (which begins on a Friday between the 19th and the 25th of January). The meat is cured with a particular fermentation process and hung to dry for four to five months. The curing process removes the ammonia from the flesh and makes it edible. Photo/Pjetur Sigurðsson
Where to buy: Most fish stores.
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Traditional skyr Skyr is a traditional Icelandic dairy product that resembles yogurt, but it is, correctly speaking, a cheese. Skyrmaking dates back all the way to the 9th century. The product is made from skim milk, which remains after the cream has been removed. The milk is then warmed, live cultures from pre vious batches of skyr are added, and after it has thickened, it is strained off from the whey. Where to buy: Skyr can be bought in all supermarkets.
The Icelandic goat The Icelandic goat, also known as the Settlement goat, is believed to be of Norwegian descent. The breed dates back to the settlement of Iceland in 870 but became close to extinction during the late 19th century. Around 10 million krónur (64.973 euros / 84.097 US dollars) were raised last autumn through an American internet campaign called “Save the Icelandic Goat from Extinction.” The campaign was launched in a bid to save Iceland’s largest goat farm from being put up for auction.
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Sun-dried salted cod
Dried and salted cod has been produced in Iceland, Norway, Faroe Islands, and Newfoundland for over five hundred years. Traditionally the fish was laid to dry in the sun and wind outdoors. Where to buy: Fish stores 2
Smoked lamb
Hangikjöt is a traditional smoked leg of lamb that takes its name from the old tradition of preserving meat by hanging it from the rafters of a smoking shed. The word ‘hangikjöt’ means ‘hung meat.’ Hangikjöt is most commonly eaten as a topping with ‘flatbrauð’ (rye flat bread) and for Christmas dinner, served with potatoes in béchamel sauce, red cabbage, and green peas. Where to buy: Hangikjöt can be bought in all supermarkets and directly from farmers. 3
Flaky sea salt dried with geothermal energy
In Iceland sea salt is dried using energy from hot springs and is called ‘flögusalt þurrkað með jarðvarma’ in Icelandic. Saltverk and Norðursalt are among the companies producing flaky sea salt with geothermal energy. The salt is produced by pumping fresh seawater into evaporation tanks that are heated by natural geothermal water. Geothermal heat is also used to dry the salt. Where to buy: Most supermarkets.
Harðfiskur Harðfiskur is traditional dried fish, most commonly made from haddock, cod, or wolf fish. For centuries, harðfiskur was one of the staple foods in an Icelander’s diet because of its high protein content and was usually eaten with butter or seaweed. Today, Icelanders produce around 250 tonnes (551,156 pounds) of dried fish annually. Where to buy: All supermarkets and fish stores.
Where to buy: Goat meat can be bought directly from farmers through the website beintfrabyli.is.
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artikel
H A N D H A RV E S T E D
SUSTAINABLE SEA SALT
from The Westfjords of Iceland
Saltverk´s Icelandic Flake salt is the world’s only artisan salt produced with 100% geothermal energy, and one of the best flake salts available. Making it the flake salt of choice for consumers looking for excellent salt made in an environmentally sustainable way.
More info at www.saltverk.com and www.facebook.com/saltverk Iceland Magazine / issue #05 2015
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Hvannadalshnjúkur peak Iceland’s highest point is in Vatnajökull glacier, stands at 2,110 meters (or nearly 7,000 feet).
Reasons to Visit the East of Iceland From glaciers and volcanoes, vast highland expanses and deserts completely untouched by humans to narrow fjords flanked by mountains and high sea cliffs crowded with birds, East Iceland is a world on its own. There are many reasons to visit the area. Here we name a few. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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Because it is home to Europe’s greatest ice mass Nature’s diversity is nowhere as spectacular in Iceland as in Vatnajökull National Park. Formed in thousands of years by the devastating powers of volcanos and glaciers the landscape is a concoction of lush green valleys and glacial tongues edged by jagged mountain tops. Vatnajökull glacier is Iceland’s largest glacier and the largest ice cap in Europe by volume. The highest point in Iceland is in the glacier: Hvannadalshnjúkur peak stands at 2,110 meters (or nearly 7,000 ft). It is a summit crater on the Öræfajökull volcano in. The peak can be climbed, but it’s recommended that you do it with an experienced guide, as crevasses in the mountain can be quite hidden and potentially dangerous.
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Reasons To Visit of East Iceland
Just 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) from the village of Vopnafjörður is the Selárdalur swimming pool, built by volunteers in 1949 and opened in 1950. The pool overlooks the banks of the Selá River, which flows through a canyon, just meters from the pool area. The pool itself is quite small, and the roads leading to it are unpaved, but getting there is half the adventure! Selá River is one of Iceland’s most exclusive rivers for salmon angling. Photo/Friðrik Halldórsson
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Explore the prehistoric past Once you’ve reached Bustarfell Manor Museum, you can take a hike up to Þuríðará River and visit the Álfkonusteinn (the Fairy Rock). Folklore tells the story of a lady from Bustarfell Manor who went into the Fairy Rock to help a fairy woman in labour. She was given a woven cloth of golden lace for her assistance and that cloth is now preserved in the National Museum of Iceland. The Þuríðará River runs through the Þuríðargil Canyon, where, in 1980, mineralized fossils were discovered in sedimentary strata that dates back to the Tertiary Period. The findings are thus considered a key to the remote history of Iceland, and they suggest that Iceland was in fact, at some point, connected to either North America or Europe.
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Learn about Iceland’s role in WWII In February of 1944, during the Second World War, a British oil tanker, the SS El Grillo, was sunk by a German air attack while at anchor at Seyðisfjörður in Iceland. While it was not completely destroyed in the attack, the captain of El Grillo decided to deliberately sink his own ship in order to prevent other ships at the harbor from becoming targets. This incident was the only incident of fighting during the Second World War that reached the shores of Iceland. For those who are PADI-certified (advanced open water divers), this is a dive worth looking into.
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Visit the centre of the east Egilsstaðir is sometimes dubbed the capital of the East, but it’s also home to Iceland’s second largest lake, Lagarfljót and thus home to the Lagarfljót Monster. With approximately 2,300 inhabitants, Egilsstaðir may not be a large town, but if you’re travelling on the East Coast, it’s quite central, with easy access (if weather permits) to other towns and villages on the East Coast. Mountains, waterfalls, hiking trails, and geothermal pools are just a few of the things the East Coast has to offer, with Egilsstaðir right in the center of it all. Unlike most of the smaller towns in Iceland, Egilsstaðir has an International Airport (one of only four in Iceland), and it serves as a back-up for the International Airport at Keflavik.
PORT hönnun
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You can take a dip in one of Iceland’s quaintest swimming pools
VAT N AJ Ö KU L S ÞJ Ó Ð G A R Ð U R N AT ION A L PA R K
We are proud to welcome you
©Guðmundur Ögmundsson
© Skarphéðinn G. Þórisson
to Vatnajökull National Park!
Dettifoss
PORT hönnun
©Regína Hreinsdóttir
©Guðmundur Ögmundsson
Hiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distance
Langisjór
Svartifoss in Skaftafell
Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008. With a total area of roughly 14,000 km2 it is by far the largest national park in Iceland as well as in Western Europe. For more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.is
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Reasons To Visit of East Iceland
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Hike to the star of the East Iceland waterfalls The hike up to Hengifoss waterfall takes two to three hours (the round trip) and is quite challenging, rated 4 out of 5 in difficulty. At 128 meters (420 ft.) Hengifoss is the second highest waterfall in Iceland and has been called the star of the many waterfalls of East Iceland.
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See a great example of a turf house It’s not too long ago that Icelanders stopped living in turf houses, and indeed, Bustarfell Manor was home to Icelandic families until 1966. One of Iceland’s best-maintained turf houses, Bustarfell Manor has been turned into a museum to give visitors a chance to turn back the wheels of time and take a look just 50 years into the past. The museum’s uniqueness is due to its ability to capture the changes in farming and daily life dating back to 1770. Next to the museum is a café where visitors can sit down and relax while enjoying the beauty and tranquility of nature.
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Reasons To Visit of East Iceland
Anyone who loveAs peace, tran quility, and nature will be sure to enjoy a stay at Skálanes.
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Relax at an old farmhouse At the mouth of Seyðisfjörður fjord stands a renovated Icelandic farmhouse, now a Nature and Cultural Center by the name of ‘Skálanes’. The center offers bed-and breakfast accommodation, and is in the early stages of growing its own produce in order to become self-sufficient. Wherever your interests may lie, anyone who loveAs peace, tranquility, and nature will be sure to enjoy a stay at Skálanes. It’s a place where the pace of life slows down, and you breathe the fresh air of learning and observation.
Scale Seyðisfjörður fjord seven mountain tops By climbing the seven mountains near Seyðisfjörður fjord, taller than 1,000 meters (3,280 ft), you can earn a ‘Seyðisfjörður Fjord Mountaineer’ badge. Guest books and stamps are only on the tops of the mountains, so there can be no cheating. Visitors can pick up leaflets at the Tourist Information Center in town.
LaugarfeLL HigHLand HosteL located in the eastern part of the iceland
There are only two km.from the road that leads to Kárahnjúkar to the hostel and it is the only part of road that is not paved. In the summer there is good access to Laugarfell in all kinds of vehicles.
www.highlandhostel.is
tel: +354 773 3323 IcelandIceland Magazine / issue Mag / vol.#05 #042015 2014
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before & After Yes this is the same building. Photo/GVA (left) Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Stay at a former French hospital turned into a hotel The hike up to Hengifoss waterfall takes two to three hours (the round trip) and is quite challenging, rated 4 out of 5 in difficulty. At 128 meters (420 ft.) Hengifoss is the second highest waterfall in Iceland and has been called the star of the many waterfalls of East Iceland.
See a rock shaped as a elephant As many people know, Icelandic nature is one of a kind. Its unique, rugged beauty creates visions of many things, some only for a moment, but some that are guaranteed to last. At Vopnafjörður Fjord in Northeast Iceland, there’s a large elephant standing out in the ocean. It’s called ‘Ljósastapi’ in Icelandic, and has been dubbed ‘The Elephant’ for years due to its shape. It’s actually a large pillar of rock, just a stone’s throw from the beach, on one of Vopnafjörður’s many popular walking routes.
Scale Mt. Krossavíkurfjall No hiker can go to the East Coast without taking up the challenge of Krossavíkurfjall Mountain. At 1100 meters (3,608 ft) tall, the view from the top is breathtaking in every direction. The trail up the mountain is well-marked and easy to follow. If the weather is good, hikers can see over to Langanes Peninsula, Dyrfjöll mountains, Herðubreið tuya, and the Icelandic highlands.
Visit a fjord that is only accessible during the summerIn Mjóifjörður fjord there’s a beautiful outdoor area called Prestagil canyon, or Priest’s Canyon. Many years ago, a Giantess who lived there is believed to have lured priests in the area into the canyon, giving the gorge its name. Mjóifjörður fjord is a hidden gem on the East Coast, and in the wintertime there is no access to it by road. So it’s rather surprising that the poor priests were tempted into the canyon by the giant hag—and once they went in, they couldn’t get out.
Enjoy art in a former slaughterhouse The Slaughterhouse Cultural Center in the town of Egilsstaðir, was, as its name suggests, a slaughterhouse where animals were killed and processed for consumption. The house is one of the oldest buildings in Egilsstaðir and was built in phases in 1958, 1992, and 1995. The slaughtering of animals ended in 2003, and in 2006 the building was turned into a cultural center with its first live theatre show in March of 2007. Various shows and events are hosted there by the cultural organization MMF, so everyone should be able to find something that suits their fancy.
Glacier Jeeps - Ice & Adventure Glacier Jeeps - Ice & Adventure offer adventure tours with specially equipped 4WD superjeeps and skidoos, or glacier hiking tours on the great Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier.
Tours are available all year round May-Oct daily 9.30 AM and at 14.00 PM Departure from: F985 (GPS: N 64°1344,7 W 0,15° 4159,3) Oct - May please call for departure time Deperture from: Vagnsstaðir Hostel (GPS: N64° 16 09,0 - W 0,15° 4858,6 ) Minimum: 2 persons Duration: 3 hours, one hour on skodoo snowmobile. Reservations needs to be made.
THE BREIÐDALSSETUR CENTER Geology – Linguistics – History
The Breiðdalssetur Center focuses on geological research, but also hosts exhibitions about literature and history focused on East Iceland. It is housed in the oldest building in the East Icelandic village of Breiðdalsvík where the local co-op store was operated from 1906 - 1957. Exhibitions include the geology of East Iceland, the work of well-known volcanologist Dr. George P.L.Walker, writer and linguist Dr. Stefán Einarsson from Höskuldsstaðir and the history of the house and surrounding area. You are welcome to visit us! Entrance fee 300 kr. Gamla Kaupfélagið Sæbergi 1 | 760 Breiðdalsvík | Tel: (+354) 470-5565 info@breiddalssetur.is breiddalssetur.is
SKIPALÆKURICELAND Small family run company, which offers comfortable low priced accommodation in the heart of Egilsstaðir. If you are to enjoy Egilsstaðir the guesthouse perfectly located in a walking distance to super markets, restaurants, museums, a swimming pool and any leisure that the community has to offer. If you are to travel around East of Iceland Egilsstaðir is a central location and therefor an ideal place to stay. The Guesthouse consists of five comfortable double rooms, all beds are made up and 2 towels are provided for every guest. Other facilities are shared, large living room with a television and small balconies, fully equipped kitchen and bathrooms. We offer free wireless Internet for our guests.
www.ormurinn.is
I email: info@ormurinn.is I Tel: 00 354 852 1004
Welcome to Granny’s Kingdom! Skipalækur is an Icelandic Guesthouse, one of the originals of Icelandic Farmholidays, located 2,5km from Egilsstadir, East Iceland. Skipalækur stands by lake Lagarfljót in the inlands of Fljótsdalshérað, an area of spectacular surroundings in summer as well as in its winter coat. Skipalækur is centrally located for visiting the East Fjords, Hallormsstaður forrest, the highlands of Snæfell and many more attractions.
We are open all year. www.skipalaekur.is I email: booking@skipalaekur.is I tel: +354 471 1324 IcelandIceland Magazine #05 2015 Mag/ issue / vol. #04 2014
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Reasons To Visit of East Iceland Locals recommend
Local Guide: Steinunn
Egilsstaðir town n Selskógur Forest there are beautiful paths that the locals use quite a bit for a stroll in nature or a good run. The Eyvindará River flows through the forest. Many people jump into the river from the old bridge or from the cliffs on hot summer days,” says Steinunn Sigurðardóttir of Egilsstaðir. “Laugavellir Pool is close to the Kárahnjúkar Hydro Power Plant. It’s a geothermal pool that you can bathe in, but the water comes from a hot water waterfall that falls into this stacked pool. You can only get there if you’re driving a jeep though.”
Recommendations Go to Drullutjörn pond in Vesturdalur valley for sunbathing and swimming in the pond.
Local Guide: Auður Ösp
Seyðisfjörður fjord
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kaftafell Restaurant is the first restaurant that comes to mind. Skaftafell is famous for its pizza, and for good reason, too. Their menu is everchanging, so everyone should be able to find something they enjoy. The dining room serves as an exhibition hall as well, contributing to the great atmosphere of the place,” says Auður Ösp from Seyðisfjörður. She adds that on Saturdays, people in the town come together at Skaftafell with their handiwork and work on their craft while discussing the goings-on in the village. “When I was little, my friends and I would pack a lunch and go to Botnatjörn Pond up in the mountain, where we would wade in the pond and enjoy the sunshine. My current age group (18-30 year olds) go to a different pond called Drullutjörn, located in Vestdalur valley. The sun shines into the valley longer than it does the town and it can get really hot over there, making it perfect for sunbathing and jumping into the pond to cool off.”
Warm waterfall Steinunn and her daughter Katla Arney by the fantastic geothermal waterfall at Laugarvellir in the east of the central highlands .
Búðarvegi 59, 750 Fáskrúðsfjörður – Tel: +354 475 1575 www.sumarlina.is – sumarlina@simnet.is
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Hafnarbraut 42 • Höfn • Sími: +354 478 2600 • www.kaffihorn.is • kaffihornid@eldhorn.is
The Sea-house The Sea-houseRestaurant Restaurant
Randulffs SeaSea House Randulffs House
Open12:00-21:00 from 12:00-21:00 – September. Open from JuneJune – September. Alsoby open by arrangement. Also open arrangement. Strandgata 96, 735 Eskifjörður Strandgata 96, 735 Eskifjörður Tel: (+354) 477 1247 Tel: (+354) 477 1247
Located in a beautiful old house built in 1907. On the menu: crepes, soups, panini, bagels, salads, pastry and more. Coffee, beer & vine. Open: 9-18 Mon, Tue, Wed & Fri. 9-22.30 on Thur, Sat 10-18, Sun 13-17 Address: Egilsbraut 7, 740 Neskaupstað You will also find Icelandic wool sweaters and products at the café.
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The street food of Reykjavík While Icelanders like to tell stories of how they eat fermented shark and sheep’s heads, the real national dish of Iceland would have to be the hot dog. It is certainly tastier than shark, and it’s definitely more popular. You can get Icelandic hot dogs at every gas station. There are hot dog stands at malls and shopping centres, as well as airports and bus terminals. It would hardly be an overstatement to say that your visit to Iceland won’t be complete until you’ve tasted this local delicacy. Words: Magnús Sveinn Helgason
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A culinary revolution
he best street food in Europe And the best place to eat hot dogs is definitely Bæjarins Beztu by the old harbour. A true Reykjavík institution and one of the best eateries, not just in Reykjavík. And don’t just take our word for it. Ask Bill Clinton or any number of foreign visitors who have come to Reykjavík. In 2006, the British newspaper The Guardian named Bæjarins Beztu as one of the five best street food stands in Europe. Foreign visitors have various theories about the secret behind Icelandic hot dogs. Some speculate that it’s the lamb meat in Icelandic hot dogs, others think it is the “remulade,” which The Guardian described as a “mysterious” tasty condiment, while still others think it’s the sweet mustard. Bill Clinton probably belongs to that last group, as he ordered a hot dog (with just mustard) when he visited Reykjavík in 2004.
It’s a testament to the power of the hot dog that, until quite recently, Icelanders simply didn’t consider it possible to operate other kinds of street food kiosks. But this has changed in recent years, as a wide variety of fast food stalls have opened in Reykjavík. Perhaps it’s one of the consequences of the 2008 “pots and pans revolution,” when Icelanders took to the streets to demand political change, economic justice—and that the bankers be put behind bars. In any case, bankers have been put behind bars and culinary entrepreneurs have taken to the street with their trailers to change the food culture of Reykjavík. We at Iceland Magazine decided to chart this culinary revolution, and review all the different street food stalls of Reykjavík. The criteria was simple: only eateries that serve food on the street to customers on the move.
Ratings: one to five stars Novelty factor: one to five sheep’s heads Prices: $ = ca 500-1000 ISK, $$ ca 1000-1500 ISK, $$$ ca 1500-2000.
BSÍ Bus terminal Restaurant/Drive-through Traditional home kitchen: Mon-Sun 10:30 AM – 3 PM / Grill: Mon-Sun 7 AM – 11 PM Drive Through: Sun-Wen 7 AM – 11:30 PM / Thur 7 AM – 3 AM / Fri-Sat 24 h. The restaurant at the downtown bus terminal has a drive-through window that’s open late, but you can also “dine in” at the restaurant while waiting for a bus, or if you’re just looking for a taste of what Icelanders would eat at home. Frequented by bus drivers, taxi drivers, and contractors, it serves food you eat to satisfy your hunger. No frills or presentations, just meat and potatoes! The house specialty is the charred sheep’s head, served with a generous side of mashed potatoes and mashed rutabaga. In addition to a selection of burgers and sandwiches, the BSÍ cafeteria has daily lunch specials of traditional Icelandic food, making it the best place to experience regular Icelandic home cooking.
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The Fish and Chips Trailer by the old harbour Open Mon-Sun: 11 AM – 9 PM One of two fish-and-chips wagons in Reykjavík, Fish and Chips at Grandi probably has the best location of any of the street food stalls in Reykjavík. You can either eat at one of the picnic tables, or take your order and sit on one of the rocks by the sea, taking in the view of the old harbour and the sea. We will go so far as to say that it’s a great spot for a romantic dinner, substituting seagulls for candlelight! The view is not just spectacular, the portions are large, which is a definite plus. Be sure to order mushy peas and a sauce.
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Not just hot dogs any more: The street food of Reykjavík
Bæjarins Beztu Open: Sun- Thu 10 AM – 1 PM Fri – Sat 10 AM - 4:30 PM This is, of course, the king of Icelandic street food. No trip to Reykjavík is complete without stopping by Bæjarins Beztu. While ordering “The Clinton” (see above: A hot dog with a lot of mustard) might sound cool, the proper way to order a hot dog is “with everything,” which includes both types of onion (fried and raw), ketchup, remulade, and sweet mustard. Two hot dogs (each 400 ISK) make a cheap and satisfying meal. Whether as an afternoon snack, lunch, or early breakfast/late-night meal after the bars close, a hot dog is the thing. There is usually a line, so be patient and don’t take your sweet time when it’s your turn!
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The Lobster Hut at Lækjartorg square Sun-Thu: 10 PM – 2/3 AM Fri-Sat: 10 PM – 5/6 AM The Lobster Hut offers a simple menu: lobster sandwich or lobster soup. The soup is tasty, but in our opinion the lobster sandwich (more of a sub) is better. Made in the traditional Icelandic sub-style, it offers the perfect mix of freshness and saucy gooeyness you expect from a late-night snack, making it a lighter alternative to the greasier subs at Hlölli.
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Meat Soup Wagon Open: Weekdays: 11:30 AM – 9 PM Weekends: 9 PM – 5 AM The Meat Soup Wagon, which is usually located at Ingólfstorg square, at the west end of Aðalstræti street, serves traditional Icelandic meat soup. It’s a hearty meal, made with potatoes, rutabaga, rice, and, of course, mutton. The soup served by the Meat Soup Wagon is pretty good, rather like what your Icelandic grandmothers might have made, although the meat is not as fatty as traditional soup-meat. The Meat Soup Wagon also sells bagels, but we highly recommend the soup (small portion is 900 ISK). It’s an excellent afternoon meal, especially to warm up during a chilly day. And of course, it provides you with a glimpse of traditional Icelandic cooking.
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Hlölli Open: Sun – Thu: 10 AM – 2 AM Fri – Sat: 10 AM – 5:30 AM Hlöllabátar serves what has become the “traditional” Icelandic sub. Toasted and fried, with copious amounts of sauces, it is the perfect food to satisfy your cravings for greasy fast food. Hlöllabátar is a favourite destination for Icelanders who go there to have one “Hlölli” before heading home after the bars close. Note that even if four, five, or even eight beers, and the midnight sun might make Hlölli tastier, it is also great for lunch or dinner. A wide selection of menu items, with different meats, toppings or sauces, and the large portions make it a great and affordable alternative to overbooked restaurants.
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The Hot Dog House Open: Mon-Wen: 10 AM - 12 AM / Thu: 10 AM- 2 AM / Fri: 10 AM-5:30 AM Sat: 11 AM-5:30 AM / Sun: 11 AM-12 AM The third eatery on Ingólfstorg is The Hot Dog House. It serves both ice cream and a selection of hot dogs. In addition to the traditional Icelandic hot dog, it has a “French-style” hot dog with mustard (which is called a “Franch dog with musterd sauce” on the misspelled menu) and various bratwurst items, including a chili dog that is so overflowing with gooey sauces it is impossible to eat. However, we do recommend the ice cream. Best time to stop by would be on a sunny day, but be prepared for a line, because Icelanders tend to make full use of their few summer days by strolling downtown with an ice cream cone!
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Westman Islands
Let Viking Tours Show You Around
promotion
The Vestmannaeyjar islands (Westman Islands), off the south coast of Iceland, are famous for their breathtaking landscape, diverse birdlife and the spectacular eruption that occured in 1973.
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he 15 islands and about 30 skerries, lie in Iceland’s southern volcanic zone and have been formed by eruptions over the past 10,000 to 12,000 years. The largest island is called Heimaey (13.4 km2, 5.2 mi2) and is the only one that is populated (4.200 inhabitants). The name of the town is Vestmannaeyjar. The eruption started on
January 23 1973 without any sign of warning. It forced a major emergency evacuation of the entire population to mainland Iceland. Number of buildings were buried under lava and ash. Numerous were destroyed but many were also later dug out and saved. The volcano, Eldfell, is literally on the outskirts of the town. Viking Tours is the largest and most experinc ed travel company in the islands. Two of its most
popular tours are a fantastic bus ride around Heimaey, with a local guide explaining the island’s history and telling his personal tale of the 1973 eruption, and great boat tour around the island with a saxophone-playing captain.
See more: www.vikingtours.is Tel: (+354) 488 4884
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• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is
Not just hot dogs any more: The street food of Reykjavík Dons Donuts (The Doughnut Wagon) Hlemmur square: All days 11 AM - 9 PM Lækjartorg square: Weekend 11 PM – 5 During the day, the doughnut cart is located on Hlemmur, at the east end of Laugavegur street, but at night it moves to Lækjartorg square. It offers tiny little doughnuts, fried to order. You select caramel or chocolate glazing and then mix and match from a variety of different sprinkles. In our humble opinion, the basic caramel sauce and cinnamon is best, but you should experiment. The presentation is also very pleasing, and the doughnuts are perfect to share. Mix and match your toppings and share with a friend! Stop at the doughnut cart to satisfy your sugar craving during the day or after a night at the bar. A true gem you should not miss.
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Taqueria Lucha Libre at the Paloma Open: Sun - Wed 12 PM – 10 PM / Thu 12 PM – 2 AM Fri-Sat 12 PM – 4/5 AM The smallest of all the food carts in Reykjavík, this tiny wagon is a proper little taqueria serving really good authentic Mexican food. Its location at the entrance to the “patio” of Paloma bar/Dubliners gives you the possibility of actually ordering a beer (from the bar) to go with your street food—a definite plus. The tacos are truly tasty, and cheap, giving the Icelandic hot dog a run for its money! It also offers a vegetarian option, making it the only vegetarian food cart in downtown Reykjavík. Comes highly recommended.
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Bitavagninn – The Hamburger Wagon Open Fri-Sat 10 PM – 5 AM Serves hamburgers that actually look worse than the burgers in photos circulating the web showing the difference between the actual menu items of Burger King and those in the advertisements. The burgers also taste something like a slightly squished and greased up version of a Burger King Quarter Pounder. Which is exactly what you might want to eat after a long night drinking. Sometimes a greasy third rate hamburger is just exactly the thing that you need to regain your bearings and recharge your batteries so that you manage to make it home to bed. But, we need to be honest here: There are few if any reasons anyone sober and in full command of his faculties would at the Hamburger stand. Which is why it is only open at night?
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Other street food vendors you might run into Vöffluvagninn – The Waffle Wagon By Hallgrímskirkja Church: Tue-Sun 11 AM – 19 PM Lækjartorgur Square: Fri-Sat 10 PM – 5/6 AM Vöffluvagninn, the waffle-wagon, offers sweet Belgian style waffles with various toppings of your choice. The chocolate or caramel and whipped cream waffles are excellent, but you can also choose from any number of waffle condiments and sweet toppings. Whether you like your waffles Icelandic style with strawberry berry jam and whipped cream or prefer American maple syrup or European Nutella, you can personalize your waffle to taste. A fresh baked waffle with whipped cream is a great way to recharge your batteries after sightseeing in the traditional Icelandic summer rain and cold, or late at night before returning to the hotel.
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In addition to the above-mentioned street food stalls, there are a few carts that show up now and then at different locations. These include a couple of hamburger vans, one called Tuddinn (translates as “the brute”) and another that’s a mobile extension of the hipster-restaurant/bar Prikið, which sometimes sells hamburgers late at night in the street opposite the restaurant.
The Icelandic Fish and Chips Wagon Open: Sun-Thu: 10 PM – 2/3 AM Fri-Sat: 10 PM – 4/5 AM This fish-and-chips wagon, open at night on Lækjartorg square, doesn’t have the spectacular views of Fish and Chips at Grandi, but makes up for that with a central location and truly good food. The fish served by Icelandic Fish and Chips is fresh linecaught cod, not trawler-fish, making it fluffier and just way tastier. We recommend the garlic sauce. Not only is the food truly good, the presentation is also beautiful and convenient, perfect for eating on the walk or standing. This is the best food cart in central Reykjavík.
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Grindavík promotion
Small & Cosy Fishing Town Grindavík is the ideal starting point for your trip in Iceland but also for your final days or even your whole trip.
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rindavík is a small and cosy fishing town on the south west corner of Iceland just 5 min utes away from the Blue Lagoon and some 30 minutes from the International Airport in Keflavík. In Grindavík you can spend your day hiking in the
beautiful nature of Reykjanes and then spend your evening at one of our many restaurants. Fresh fish is always availa ble and you can even go down to the harbour and watch the boats and the fishermen bring in catch of the day. Finally you can spend the night at a hotel or one of the many guesthouses in town. If you bring a tent or a mobile
home we have a new state of the art campground facility which opened in the summer of 2009. The campground is a pleasure-fest for the family. The campground was designed with the camping enthusiast in mind; it includes the latest in accommodations for tents, RV´s and campers.
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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
Travelling in the West Question: I’m visiting Iceland with my family and a friend has recommended that we should head for West Iceland. What should we not miss?
Iceland Mag explains
Answer: This is a solid advise from your friend. The possibili ties are countless in West Iceland and the great Westfjords, further north. We have a limited space on print so head for our website icelandmag.com for more tips, but here are two of our favourite places on the west coast.
View from the top The lighthouses are located in the oldest part of Akranes town. The view from the top of the older one is simply magnificent. Photo/Finnur Andrésson
Food and drinks for every mood. * Burgers * Steaks * Pizza * Salad * Sandwiches * Seafood...... and much more
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The two beautiful lighthouses in Akranes While it’s always spoken of as just one lighthouse, there are actually two equally magnificent lighthouses at Syðriflös cape in the town of Akranes, across Faxaflói bay from Reykjavík. The original lighthouse, built in 1918, is 10 meters (32.8 ft) tall and offers visitors an amazing view from the top. It has been voted as one of world’s most beautiful lighthouses. Between 1943 and 1944, anot her lighthouse was built, nearly double the height of the original one. The acoustics in the second lighthouse are spectacular, and concerts are hosted there on occasion. Both lighthouses are open to the public during the summer months.
Quiet & calmness The only road on the island connects the harbour and the small village. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
The remote Flatey island The island Flatey is located in Breiðafjörður, the bay north of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, and is accessible by ferry from the town of
Stykkishólmur (he ferry also goes across the bay to the Westfjords on the other). Inhabited mainly in the summer, the island is home to an old church that houses both the oldest and the smallest library in Iceland. The
island has only one road, which leads from the ferry dock to the old village where you will find a small hotel and a great restaurant. There is a great little camping site in the outskirts of the village.
Adventure Tour by SeaTours promotion
The freshest sushi you’ll ever try On the Unique Adventure Tour by SeaTours in Stykkishólmur village you get to taste scallops and sea urchin roe straight from the ocean.
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n the northern edge of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a beautiful village called Stykkishólmur. While the village is small, it’s rich in mythological history. Near the village, Helgafell mountain (“holy mountain”) is only 73 meters (240 ft) high, but a temple in honour of Thor, the old Norse God of Thunder, was built there by the first settlers. The mountain is also the site of the ancient burial place of an Icelandic heroine from the Sagas. For those not interested in mythology, a tour of the Library of Water, an installation in the town of Stykkisholmur by the American artist Roni Horn, is a must. Stykkishólmur was and is a fishing town, settled in the 1550s because of its favourable position. Its location is still favourable today, and you can take your
pick from a variety of boat trips on the Breiðafjörður bay. For the adventurous traveller, there is the Unique Adventure Tour provided by SeaTours. In the span of just two hours, you get to taste scallops and sea urchin roe straight from the
ocean while catching a glimpse of puffins, cormorants, and the rugged beauty of basalt rock formations. The trip is recommended for adults and children alike. Many of the kids who have gone on the trip specifically mentioned how
much they enjoyed the captain’s stories about trolls and elves that are believed to have lived on the islands in the bay. Just make sure to book a day in advance to guarantee your spot. (Daily trips start May 9th and run through October 15th). For those less sushi-inclined, the ferry “Baldur” will carry you across Breiða fjörður Bay with a stopover at Flatey Island. The ferry can take you over to the Westfjords, which will shorten your driving route and enhance your Iceland experience. Baldur’s schedule and
pricing is available online. And not to worry, you’ll still be served fresh food in a floating restaurant as you make your way to Flatey Island, or past it to Brjánslækur in the North.
Visit www.seatours.is
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collapse
The siege Former prime minister Geir Haarde’s car had to be escorted by police from his office during the winter of intense protests, 2008 to 2009. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Bankers Behind Bars A guided tour through the causes and consequences of the collapse of the banking system in 2008.
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he recent sentencing of several top exe cutives of Kaupthing, the largest and most aggressive of the Ice landic banks, to long jail terms for mark et manipulation in the lead up to the 2008 crash, reminds us that recent history in Iceland is just as dramatic and unique as its nature and geology. Less than seven years ago Iceland experienced one of the largest financial crises in modern history as its three largest banks collapsed, bringing down with them the currency and much of the economy. The events since the collapse of 2008 are equally remarkable. In the winter of 2008-9 Icelanders took to the streets in the “pots and pans revolution”, which has been seen as an inspiration to protest movements across Europe. Iceland has also sentenced more bankers and high flying financiers to jail than most other countries.
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Why were the bankers jailed?
Since then Iceland has been used as both an example of the worst excesses of the financial bubble which burst in 2008, and as an example of how to deal with a financial crisis. Chances are you have heard something about some of this history. But what exactly happened? What was really behind the Icelandic Financial Miracle? Why did the Icelandic banks Collapse? Was it all just a giant Ponzi scheme? What was the “Pots and Pans revolution” all about, and why have Icelandic bankers been sentenced to jail? Now you have a chance to get answers to all of the questions in a new walking tour of Reykjavík. Walk the crash with an expert
This summer the largest and most popular of the walking tours of Reykjavík, citywalk.is, is adding a guided tour through the causes and consequences of the collapse of the banking system in 2008.
Iceland has also sentenc ed more bankers and high flying financiers to jail than most other countries.
Magnús Sveinn Helgason, an eco nomic historian and expert in Icelandic financial history, will take visitors on a tour of some of the sights of the “financial miracle” of Iceland, and the “pots and pans revolution” of 2008-9. It is fair to say that Magnús is an expert in the topic. He worked for the Althing Special Investigative Commission on the collapse of the Collapse of the Financial System, and has taught economic and financial history at the University of Bifröst since 2010. According to Magnús the walk should not only be informative or a “crash course in the financial crash”, but fun and exciting. “What could be more exciting than the story of how a tiny country was turned into a giant hedge fund, only to blow up?”
All further information can be found at citywalk.is/walk-the-crash
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All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com
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+354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.flybus.is • www.re.is