IdaHome--FLAVOR Spring 2023

COA DE JIMA

Conquers Latin Food Fusion

SPRING 2023

publisher

KAREN DAY

karen@idahorem.com

editor

APRIL NEALE april@idahorem.com

features editor

HEATHER HAMILTONPOST heather@idahorem.com

art and design

JSNGRAFIX KALEY WRIGHT design@idahorem.com

director of operations and sales manager

MARIELLE WESTPHAL admin@idahorem.com

staff photographer

KAREN DAY

cover photograph

KAREN DAY

social media

APRIL NEALE

marketing, sales, and distribution karen@idahorem.com

ON THE COVER

Coa De Jima's signature Seafood Molcajete with Plantains, as shown on IdaHome FLAVOR's Spring 2023 cover, personifies the art of “Flambé.” This dramatic dish of pan-roasted lobster, shrimp, scallops, fish, octopus, crab, grilled cactus, avocado, and panela cheese in a spicy tomato chile de arbol sauce is presented in a hot lava rock molcajete offers a inventive panoply of tastes and textures.

CONTRIBUTORS

Tim Atwell is a lifelong Idahoan who enjoys writing about the fast-growing food and drink scene in Boise. He works full time as a tech writer, but you can find him on nights and weekends exploring Boise and the surrounding area. He has contributed to publications including IdaHome, Edible Idaho, and The Blue Review. Outside of writing, he loves to barbecue, roast coffee, and try new recipes. Bonnie Trounson Alexander, an Idaho native, graduated from the University of Idaho and then moved to Dallas, Texas where she worked as a freelance writer and photographer for local and national publications. Now living in Boise, Bonnie spends time pursuing creative business ventures and keeping up with her large extended family.

April Neale is an entertainment features writer and has read her work on NPR and Spoken Interludes and writes for various industry trades and entertainment websites. Neale is a member of the Critics Choice Association, Alliance of Women Film Journalists, Hollywood Critics Association, Television Critics Association, and other professional entertainment organizations.

Heather Hamilton-Post is a writer and editor in Caldwell. She holds degrees in both agriculture and creative writing and is herself surprised by that. When she’s not writing, catch her at a sociallydistanced baseball game with her husband and young sons. Find her work across the web and buried in the lit journals you didn’t know you had.

Karen Day is a photographer and the fearless captain of our fleet of pages and mighty crew. A list of her creative passions and true job description risks making her appear insane, rather than insanely talented. Her habit of climbing onto the ledge of possibility offers us continuous adventures and little sleep. All aboard!

Pamela Kleibrink Thompson is an internationally-acclaimed recruiter, career coach and animation veteran. She's been published in more than 124 different publications and is also writing children's picture books. As a career coach, she works with creative people to help them pursue their passions.

IdaHome Magazine, LLC

P.O. Box 116 Boise, Idaho 83701 208.481.0693

© 2023 IdaHome Magazine. All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by the authors and contributors to IdaHome Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor and publisher.

Community + Culture + Recreation + Real Estate

After graduating from the University of Iowa with a master’s degree in journalism, Harrison Berry returned to Boise, where he spent eight years working for Boise Weekly, rising to the position of managing editor. His work has appeared in publications from Business Insider to American Theatre. He currently works for Boise State University.

Micah Drew is a writer currently based in northwest Montana. A multiple Montana Newspaper Association award-winning journalist covering politics, sports, and the outdoors, he has written for Edible Idaho, Boise Weekly, and High Country News . When not in the newsroom, he can be found trail running throughout the West.

Darby Tarantino is a wine, culinary arts, and hospitality professional with more than 20 years of experience in the industry. She is the owner of Enlightened Vine, which specializes in educational vine-towine experiences.

Dear Readers,

Spring is almost here, bringing you the second issue of IdaHome FLAVOR and proving we are so much more than a magazine about where to eat, trailblazing chefs, or how to follow a recipe.

This issue presents an exciting snapshot of our western state undergoing tremendous change while absorbing new ideas, flavors, and foods. This is particularly evident with the expansion of how Latin and Mexican food can be defined. Our hope is to inspire you to taste the many diverse ways Idaho is brimming with new gems in dining.

From the ground up, Tim Atwell reports on how FARE Idaho is forming collaborative partnerships with restaurateurs and growers to create collective success for all, including all of us who love to eat local to support local.

Mother’s Day is May 14th, and we offer an homage to mothers with the Food Network star and James Beard nominee, Tiffany Derry, who talked to me about her journey from IHOP to culinary school with a salute to her mother’s formidable influence. Bonnie Alexander shares the experience of her daughter’s wedding at The Grove Hotel and then whisks us off to a “France in Idaho'' wedding at the Chateau des Fleurs in Eagle.

At the landmark Basque restaurant, Leku Ona, Chef Asier Garcia recalls how his mother’s croquetas spawned brothers-in-mischief long ago. Heather Hamilton-Post spoke with rising star and two-time James Beard nominee, Salvator ‘Sal’ Alamilla, and co-owner Rebecca Alamilla at Amano about how their unique cuisine evolved thanks to precious family recipes. Nikolai Castoro explains his family’s dedication to Latin food fusion and how his mother’s artistic talent is spreading to Eagle.

Lastly, don’t miss our new and continuing column, MAN EATS BOISE, with Harrison Berry sampling locally excellent and exotic dishes.

So let’s lift a toast to all the moms who fed us well! Welcome to the FLAVOR of 208!

In good taste, April Neale

Photo by Tyler Nix

SAYING “I DO” IN FRANCE- ALMOST!

By Bonnie Alexander

Wedding ceremonies at Chateau des Fleurs can be performed in various locations throughout the venue, but a majority of brides choose to walk the aisle beneath the glow of ten chandeliers in the Grand Galerie.

IMAGE CREDIT: CHATEAU DES FLEURS

Awedding at Chateau des Fleurs is like a wedding in France but closer. Although Idaho boasts an abundance of betrothal locations framing the state’s diverse natural beauty, many young couples dream of a destination wedding far from home.

Only thirty minutes from downtown Boise and nestled on a manicured acreage close to the river, this beautiful French-inspired villa promises and outof-country experience. Engaged couples in the Treasure Valley who desire a destination wedding but have a local budget will find the Chateau des Fleurs to be a plausible option. And, with so many friends and relatives able to attend the ceremony, sharing their special day will be magical.

The first thing one notices upon arrival is the stately stone structure with wrought iron railings, gracious windows, and a slate tile roof with ornate dormers. Just like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz, the phrase “. . . I have a feeling we aren’t in Idaho anymore” comes to mind. Once inside, the spacious Grand Galerie

delights the senses with natural light, massive crystal chandeliers, Hungarian oil paintings, and arched entrances leading to the grand ballrooms. At the end of the hall, doors swing open to outdoor patios, formal gardens, and terraced lawns.

Chateau des Fleurs has everything in one convenient location and the professional staff to ensure a relaxed and beautiful wedding experience, not only for the wedding party but for every guest. They have been hosting weddings since opening in 2016 and every detail has been addressed—from ample parking spaces to comfortable Chiavari chairs. The venue’s elegant structure and tasteful decor set a breathtaking backdrop, so additional expensive wedding props are not necessary. All-inclusive wedding packages have upfront standard pricing so the wedding budget does not balloon with extras as the date approaches.

Wedding ceremonies can be performed in various locations throughout the venue, but a majority of brides choose to walk the aisle beneath the glow of ten chandeliers in the Grand Galerie. Some brides

love the outdoors and opt instead for a ceremony in the South Gardens. Large receptions take place in one of the generous ballrooms where sumptuous plated dinners are served for up to 240 guests.

Every detail about the design, decor, and operation of Chateau des Fleurs reflects the philosophy of owner Susan Roghani. “The most important part of the wedding is for the couple to simply enjoy the ceremony and to visit and dine with the guests who come to celebrate with them,” she said. Between the wedding ceremony and dinner, guests are welcome to wander around the property, relax, and perhaps sample wines from the private family-owned Roghani Vineyards of the Snake River Valley.

For a preview of Chateau des Fleurs’ European ambience and to view the event layout, plan to attend Afternoon Tea served every Wednesday in the Grand Ballroom. Or, reserve a special evening Tuesday through Saturday at Roghani’s Restaurant located just off the grand hall. No reason to wait for a Chateau des Fleurs wedding to escape to the Chateau.

Left: Menu options are abundant at the Chateau des Fleurs and are overseen by the culinary team who ensures every guest has the right meal—vegan, vegetarian, meat lover, or pescatarian. Center: Wedding details and decor are handled in house with Susan Roghani’s wedding team. Right: Floral arrangements and choices are vast as the Chateau ensures the wedding party and their guests are surrounded by seasonal blooms and freshly cut flowers. PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHATEAU DES FLEURS

The chateau is the perfect venue for an outdoor wedding event in Eagle, Idaho. PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHATEAU DES FLEURS

MOTHER OF THE BRIDE

By Bonnie Alexander

Two daughters, two beautiful weddings: a destination wedding on top of a ski lift in Telluride, Colorado, and a local wedding at The Grove Hotel in downtown Boise. The weddings couldn’t have been more different, but in the end they accomplished the same thing. And, although destination weddings may have their appeal, I found that staying local and handing the details over to experts reduces stress and increases the chances of a lovely, relaxed event for everyone involved.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

Boise weather can be gorgeous in September, so we planned the wedding and reception to take place outdoors on The Grove Hotel’s Terrace. Three stories above street level, the Terrace faces south toward the old train depot and accommodates up to 140 dinner reception guests. In our case, the best reason for choosing a local venue was because a large number of family and friends who would be sitting on both sides of the aisle live in the Boise vicinity. They truly appreciated having a short drive to the hotel, and a convenient place to park once they arrived.

For our out-of-town guests, The Grove Hotel provided luxury guest suites and free shuttles to and from the airport. Dozens of

other lodging, dining, and shopping options are available within walking distance of the hotel, so guests who stayed elsewhere were still in the nexus of all the wedding activities. Plus, most of Boise’s best visitor sites are easily accessible from downtown by foot, bike, or e-scooter.

BRING IN THE PROFESSIONALS

In retrospect, I have learned that weddings are not the time or place to practice DIY. Granted, The Grove Hotel makes it look easy, but consider the fact that they host 30 weddings a year. They know what they are doing and the entire staff treated us like royalty. During the dozens of times we passed through the lobby during the planning and preparation stages, I was convinced they had mistaken us for family members of the Simplot Idaho potato dynasty. Throughout the evening of the wedding, the professional staff seamlessly transformed the venue from formal nuptials to elegant dining and lastly to a romantic, twinkling dance floor. Every detail was executed to perfection and orchestrated for the comfort of each wedding guest.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

People may come for the wedding ceremony but they leave with memories of the

buffet. This is where The Grove Hotel’s chef and culinary team rose to the challenge of pleasing our very demanding, yet appreciative, foodie family. During our pre-wedding tastings they actually listened to what we wanted, not just the quality and quantity of food, but also the presentation. Our high expectations were exceeded. The buffet was artistically arranged and every bite of food was fresh and delicious.

PRICELESS

Planning a once-in-a-life-time event with no unexpected expenses and everything handled professionally at one place with one quoted price proved to be a brilliant choice. And as for the mother of the bride, I’m still smiling.

Three stories above street level, the Terrace faces south toward the old train depot and accommodates up to 140 dinner reception guests.

PHOTO BY AMANDA ALICE PHOTOGRAPHY

By April Neale

The two titans of the Food Network, Bobby Flay and Guy Fieri, have bet heavily on Chef Tiffany Derry. The popular rising culinary star’s upbringing and work ethic—instilled by her large family and farm-to-table lived life—took her from small-town Texas to starring on Top Chef, Top Chef All-Stars, and PBS’s Great American Recipe. Chef Derry is now a vital force and exemplifies the expression “grace under pressure,” appearing on Bobby’s Triple Threat and Fieri’s Tournament of Champions for Food Network in 2022 and 2023.

But back in Texas is where Chef Derry’s restaurant empire reigns. Derry nabbed a prestigious James Beard Award nomination for her Roots Southern Table in Farmers Branch, cited by the Dallas news media as the Best New Restaurant of the year. She was also selected as a semifinalist for the new “Best Chef, Texas” category. Her path to fame was unconventional as she carved her way up through a Beaumont, Texas International House of Pancakes kitchen. Before that, Derry was being trained in the school of home cooking with her grandmother and mother. These two women gave her the fire to get to the finish line.

“My grandmother had 11 children, and I have 50-something cousins. So I grew up in an enormous family,” said Derry. “No one had a house that could

hold us all. We’d have tables and chairs when we would eat. I grew up with family—seeing cousins every day. We would all go to different people’s houses after school. So I grew up very much family-driven and didn’t quite know how much it was driven by food because whenever you cook for 20 people on a consecutive basis, you cook a lot. There are certain staples and things that I just loved that I didn’t realize [at the time] were so important to me. It was just growing up, watching them cook, always having to shell peas. Plus my uncle had a garden, so we would always pick fresh vegetables.”

At a certain point, Chef Derry wanted her own money and a job. Instead, she found herself at Beaumont’s IHOP, and as timing and luck would have it, she managed to get into the kitchen when

one cook called in sick, circumventing a manager who told her she could only serve food. Her family continuously fed her the confidence to achieve her dream of culinary school, and soon, a trip to France changed her worldview. But southern roots run deep, and her successful Roots restaurants in Texas reflect her culinary ethos of honoring fresh ingredients—especially vegetables and simple cooking styles.

“I went to the Arts Institute of Houston,” Derry said. “And they would have these trips that I knew I wanted to go on, yet I didn’t have the money. So I talked to my family, and they gave me their money, a—$50 here, $25-a-year, ‘here’s a hundred.’ And I got a second job, saved and worked, and was able to go on my first trip to France. So that changed my outlook on everything and solidified what I want to do.”

Left: Chef Bobby Flay and Chef Tiffany Derry on Bobby’s Triple Threat. Right: Chef Tiffany Derry of Food Network’s show Bobby’s Triple Threat PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOOD NETWORK.

“...I got a second job, saved and worked, and was able to go on my first trip to France. So that changed my outlook on everything and solidified what I want to do.”

The entire experience influenced her repertoire in the kitchen and menu planning. The excitement of making that trip has stayed with Chef Derry. “This is living. I just thought it was beautiful, and the food was so different from the foods I knew. Everything was mind-blowing to me,” she said. “I wanted to taste it all. I wanted to experience it all, and I thought I would stay. I decided that I wouldn’t return and would live in France. I would train [there] like everyone I had read about, but financially, it didn’t make sense.”

After experiencing the beauty and art of French cuisine, Chef Derry looked at the classic Southern recipes from her family with a new perspective. She decided to perfect her personal technique by updating tried-and-true favorites, like her famous duck fat fried chicken in her first restaurant, Roots Chicken Shak. Today, people fly into Dallas just to eat that bestselling treat.

Chef Derry also learned how to interpret foods and not fear new tastes and dishes through watching her mother. “My first mentor would be my mom, hands down,” said Chef Derry. “She is one of the best cooks that I’ve ever known in my life. Out of all her sisters and brothers, my mom cooks the best and is also the most open-minded. And all of us coming from the south, some of my family are set in traditional ways, like ‘this is how we do it, and it needs to stay this way—and if it’s not done like this, it’s not right.’ My mom, even today, we still go somewhere, and she’s like, ‘let’s get that. Let’s try that.’ Just the cutest thing. My first love of cooking came from her.”

The influencers in Chef Derry’s life continued, notably with one famous chef who taught her the restaurant business’s secret weapon—connecting with your patrons. “After that, Chef Mark Holley was my first professional chef job,” she said. “Mark talked to everyone when you walked into his restaurant. He knew you; he knew your children. And I started recognizing that that’s

important. People want to connect in a different way than just making incredible food. So those were lessons that I learned from him. I had mentors from people who didn’t realize they were mentoring me. I picked up things from people I read about, figuring out what kind of chef I wanted to be. What are the lessons I can learn that this person is telling me they went through so that I don’t have to go through that?”

Chef Derry also attributes her success to her time and teachers in front of the camera. “Truthfully, Bobby Flay has been an incredible mentor,” she said. “I’ll always remember what he told me. I was worried about losing; he said, ‘It’s not about losing. It’s how you lose that matters.’ But, he said, ‘You still hold your head up. Be very happy and thankful for it all because, at the end of the day, it’s just not that important. Have fun, enjoy yourself and be happy for the other person. Because for them, this is a really big moment.’ And I said, okay, chef, heard. And that has helped me navigate through those waters.”

Left: Chef Bobby Flay, Chef Tiffany Derry and Chef Brooke Wiliamson of Bobby’s Triple Threat for Food Network. Right: Tiffany Derry from the new season of Tournament of Champions premiering on Food Network on February 19th at 8 pm.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOOD NETWORK.

SPRING PEA SALAD with Preserved Lemon Celery Seed Vinaigrette:

by Tiffany Derry

VINAIGRETTE

1 preserved lemon, chopped including rind and meat

1 cup lemon juice

1 Tsp sugar

1 Tbsp celery seed, toasted and grinded

1 Tbsp salt

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2.5 cups olive oil

• Mix everything together and set aside.

SALAD

3 oz. of blanched beans (combination or one of snap peas, snow peas, and fava beans)

1 oz. mixed radishes, sliced thin

1 Tablespoon preserved lemon vinaigrette

2 leaves basil, torn

2 leaves mint, torn

1 Tbsp dill, rough chopped

2oz. burrata cheese

Frisée lettuce

2 Tbsp candied bacon, chopped fine Garnish with olive oil

• In a mixing bowl put blanched beans, radishes, and tablespoon of preserved lemon vinaigrette, salt and pepper. If more dressing is desired add more.

• Add basil, mint, and dill to the bowl.

• Arrange in a circle on a serving plate and make a hole in the center. Lay burrata in the center of the vegetables.

• Garnish with a few strands of frisée and radish.

• Top with candied bacon and drizzle with olive oil.

PHOTO BY ALYSSA VINCENT

Photo by Lum3

SEAFOOD \\

ANTHONY’S AWARD-WINNING CLAM CHOWDER

creamy New England style, potatoes, bacon

ALASKA WEATHERVANE SCALLOPS

pan seared, sprinkled with gremolata

SEAFOOD CHOP CHOP

Dungeness crab, Oregon bay shrimp, avocado, chopped egg, tomatoes and chopped greens, fresh basil vinaigrette

DUNGENESS CRAB CAKES

ginger plum sauce & beurre blanc

STEAMED MANILA CLAMS

fresh tomato, red pepper, local Gem Pack chorizo, yellow onion, steamed in lobster broth, topped with gremolata

JUMBO PRAWN COCKTAIL

ANTHONY’S CRAB STACK

Dungeness crab, mango, huckleberries, avocado, mango-chive oil

Our menu includes Chef Reno’s daily selection of the finest fresh Northwest seafood from our own seafood company. To highlight select seasonal favorites, a daily fresh sheet is also included in our dinner menus.

SURF + TURF \\

N.W. SURF + TURF TOWER

celebrate the best of both worlds!

+ SHAKING BEEF*

+ FRESH DUNGENESS CRAB STACK

+ CILANTRO POACHED OCEAN PRAWNS

+ NORTH ATLANTIC LOBSTER SKEWERS

SNAKE RIVER FARMS WAGYU TOP SIRLOIN*

grilled to your liking, Anthony’s steak seasoning, butter, frizzled onions, Idaho baked potato, seasonal vegetables

STEAK + SCAMPI PRAWNS*

Snake River Farms Wagyu top sirloin grilled to your liking, roasted scampi prawns, fresh lemon, gremolata

OYSTERS \\

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL

homemade cocktail sauce, cucmber mignonette

PAN FRIED OYSTERS

fresh yearling oysters, pan fried golden brown

SEAFOOD FETTUCCINE

ocean prawns, Oregon bay shrimp, Manila clams, mussels, Alaskan Weathervane scallops, vegetables, garlic cream sauce

VISIT US ONLINE!

make reservations & see full menus

MONDAY - FRIDAY 11:30 AM - 2 PM

HAPPY HOUR

TUESDAY - FRIDAY 3:30 - 5:30 PM

$5.05 DRINKS & SNACKS DINNER

TUESDAY - SATURDAY 5:30 PM - CLOSE

- VALERIE N.

“THE BEST RESTAURANT IN BOISE”

“PHENOMENAL ATMOSTPHERE, GREAT SERVICE AND DELICIOUS FOOD”

STARTERS

BOB’S BURNT ENDS

TENDER BITS OF BRISKET WITH BBQ SAUCE (AVAILABLE THURS-SAT)

SMOKED WINGS

LOADED FRIES

CREEK FRIES, PULLED PORK, BAKED BEANS & CHEDDAR WITH CHOICE OF SAUCE

COD POPPERS

LIGHTLY BATTERED COD WITH CHOP SHOP SAUCE SMOKED SALMON CROSTINI

CAPER AIOLI, SHALLOT, CUCUMBER, RADISH & DILL

FRIED OKRA

LIGHTLY BATTERED OKRA SERVED WITH RANCH DRESSING

PIT MASTER PLATES

ALL SMOKED MEAT PLATES COME WITH HONEY BUTTERMILK ROLL & ONE SMALL SIDE

1/2 LB PORK SHOULDER

1/2 MARY’S CHICKEN

1/2 RACK PORK SPARE RIBS

1/2 LB BRISKET

PIT MASTER SAMPLER

2 RIBS, 6OZ BRISKET, 6OZ PULLED PORK & HOUSE-MADE SAUSAGE

Hours: Tuesday - Thursday: 11am - 8pm

Friday - Saturday: 11am - 9pm

Location: 716 Arthur Street, Caldwell, Idaho 83605 208-402-6781

Chopshop-caldwell.com

Featuring creatively unique ice cream flavors, vegan options, and booze infused creations, The STIL has something tasty for every ice cream lover.

Using locally sourced, high quality, real ingredients and nothing artificial, The STIL delivers expertly balanced flavors in a rich and creamy ice cream experience unlike any you’ve had before.

An acronym for The Sweetest Things In Life, The STIL aims to create a space for customers to connect with the sweetest things, people, moments, and memories in their lives over the shared joy of delicious ice cream, beverages, and treats.

ilovethestil.com

Treefort Keeps Trucking In 2023

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

PHOTO BY AARON RODRIGUEZ

PHOTO BY AARON RODRIGUEZ

PHOTO BY MATTHEW WORDELL

PHOTO BY MATTHEW WORDELL

PHOTO BY MATTHEW WORDELL

PHOTO BY PETER LOVERA

PHOTO BY AARON RODRIGUEZ

KITH AND KIN

Boise eatery KIN strives for a communal experience

By Harrison Berry

Iwasat Boise restaurant KIN on a double date, and had just sat down when staff pulled up a two-top to my right on a hunch that a recently arrived couple would “get along” with us. We did. To my left was a couple who’d never been to KIN, lured by news of Co-Owner and Chef Kris Komori’s January 2023 nomination for a regional James Beard Award—Best Chef: Northwest (his fifth, making him arguably the most high-profile chef in Idaho). Introductions and handshakes led to conversation and laughter with people we’d never met.

“Maybe you don’t think you have anything in common with them,” KIN Co-Owner and Chef Kris Komori said about strangers you meet at the restaurant’s communal dinners. “You’re having a shared experience, and people get to know each other a little bit. That part’s unique. We’re the weird creature in the restaurant ecosystem.”

Each of the five courses we ate that night—think sturgeon with seaweed and mushrooms or a shockingly hearty grain salad—was elevated, original, and paired

with wine and cider. It’s tempting to try to pick a favorite or dissect the menu, but don’t miss the orchard for the apples. KIN bills itself as a place for new friends, storytelling, and family. Seated next to strangers, surrounded by art, and party to occasional explainers about the courses, diners get a singular Boise experience not so much driven by food as enabled and validated by it.

Fostering a social rather than insular dining experience is a holdover from KIN’s precursor restaurant State and Lemp. Other inheritances include staff collaboration on menus and beverage pairing, and “preservice meals,” in which one kitchen employee makes a meal for the entire staff while they strategize the night’s service. It makes for a work culture that looks less like a French Brigade and more like an actual family.

“I’ve always thought that [preservice meals] were really important. We just like each other,” Komori said. “We’re a very technically driven place, but we need the right people to fit.”

Call it KINship. Since the restaurant opened in 2020, it has worked to offer its employees materially more than most establishments of its industry and size. In 2021, it instituted a service charge on every check to subsidize health insurance and IRAs for the entire team. The company has also instituted an equitable salary system, and profit- and tip-sharing.

In 2023, Komori was one of four Treasure Valley semifinalists for regional James Beard Awards—more local chefs than any previous year. He attributes the increase in recognition to the growth of Boise and a large pool of talented service industry workers. As the number of prestigious Boise-area restaurants grows, Komori said he hopes KIN’s influence extends beyond fine dining and into the culture of the food service industry.

“The food and beverages are just what we do, you know?” he said. “And then the ‘why’ of what we do is to grow this culture and have a positive impact on the community.”

The staggered courses are a sensory delight. Each of the five courses such as sturgeon with seaweed and mushrooms (left) or hearty grain salad were paired with wine and cider. PHOTOS COURTESY OF REMI MCMANUS, KIN.

APPETIZERS: Guacamole

Our house recipe topped with cotija cheese and Tajin. Served with tostaditas.

Duck Carnitas Quesadilla

Duck confit and our proprietary cheese blend. Served with pasilla sauce and guacamole.

Pork Belly and Chicharron

Citrus coleslaw, agave siracha sauce, tortillas, and salsa.

Esquites

Fire roasted corn, lime, Tajin, cotija cheese, spicy mayo, and popcorn.

Queso Fundido with Spicy Shrimp

Mexican chorizo, rajas, and our proprietary cheese blend. Served with tortillas.

Octopus Con Achiote

Tender octopus marinated with achiote spice and presented with yuca fries and chimi-pico sauce.

ENTRÉES: Tampiqueña

8oz. filet mignon on top of fajita vegetables and served with two chicken enchiladas in a salsa verde. Presented with ancho rice and refritos.

Costilla de Borrego Con Pepitas

Pumpkin seed crusted rack of lamb with potato purée and asparagus. Served with an ancho chile and tomatillo sauce.

Bone Marrow Tacos

Four tacos served with avocado, onions, queso fresco, and pico de gallo. Presented with ancho rice and black beans.

Mar Y Tierra

14oz. grilled New York & Maine lobster tail presented with Yukon potato purée and black beans. Served with an ancho-port wine reduction.

Milanesa de Filete de Res

Pan fried breaded beef tenderloin topped with asadero cheese and chipotle pepper. Served over chipotle angel hair pasta.

Scallops al Mojo de Ajo

Day Boat scallops presented in a garlic sauce. Served with cilantro rice, jalapeño, tomatoes, and sliced garlic.

Pescado Del Dia a La Veracruzana

Pan seared catch of the day served with onions, tomatoes, green olives, capers, and garlic in a tomato broth. Presented over cilantro rice.

Seafood Molcajete with Plantains

Pan roasted lobster, shrimp, scallops, fish, octopus, crab, grilled cactus, avocado, and panela cheese in a spicy tomato chile de arbol sauce. Presented in a hot lava rock molcajete.

Maine Lobster Enchiladas

Spinach, poblano chilies, and our proprietary cheese blend. Served in salsa verde, with cilantro rice and black beans.

LATIN FOOD FUSION COMES TO BOISE

By April Neale

Tacos are elevated to performance art on plates and platters made for sharing at Coa De Jima in downtown Boise.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Latin fusion food and the rich food culture of Mexico, Central America, and beyond are having their moment in the Treasure Valley From urban Michelinstarred restaurants to humble hole-in-thewall eateries, the Idaho Latin food scene is growing and is so much more than a bowl of chips, salsa, refried beans, and rice. Forget the restaurants of where you came from. In Idaho, the rural and urban farms turn out great ingredients that give these new chefs who excel in the southern Latin flavors—from Mexico to Argentina the ammunition to create outstanding dishes that transcend the food genre most of you knew growing up.

Boise landmark restaurant Barbacoa and the Castoro family of Del Mar, California, are leading with beautifully wrought dishes created by their longtime chef partner, Enrique Martinez, who was born in Cuernavaca, Mexico, and came of age in Southern California. Martinez has been with the Castoro family since 1997, who has weathered their share of adversity First, a fire destroyed the original dining space in 2010, and then the owner, Robert Castoro, passed away unexpectedly in 2021. But in the wake of the tumult, son Nikolai Castoro has stepped in boldly to continue his father’s vision and success of Idaho’s most prodigious seller of liquor and food service sales at the Barbacoa on Parkcenter. The concept of his late father Robert and mother Martine, an accomplished artist and designer, was to create this experiential dining destination in Boise. The family saw great opportunity back in the early eighties when Nikolai was very young.

The family’s newest restaurant creation, Coa De Jima in downtown Boise, offers a more intimate and decidedly Latinfocused menu and dining room. From the Coa De Jima designed as a door handle to the floor-to-ceiling “Árbol De La Vida” sculpture by local artist, Delia Dante, the environment is as interesting as the food.

“My father [Robert Castoro] and I were working on another restaurant when he passed away, “ said Nikolai Castoro. “After he passed in 2021, we stopped…to handle family matters. Family friend Dick Torre…brought it back to my attention in

Exotic fruit and vegetables adorn sizzling platters of meat and seafood along with freshly made guacamole and side dishes that expand the usual suspects for Mexican and Latin fare in Idaho.

PHOTO COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Above: A fresh oyster dressed “Coa De Jima” style, and calamari with their versions of come back sauces to please the table. Below: Grilled meat, homemade tortillas, and beautiful edible garnishes make each plate that hits the table an experience to share.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

2022 that the lot was still there and that Eagle, Idaho needed us. So, I met with the mayor, and [real estate developer] John Rennison…and decided to continue on the project…our goal was to open Coa Del Mar and to continue growing our businesses together.”

The new Coa Del Mar takes a nod from its waterside views and Castoro’s desire to spotlight exceptional seafood dishes from longtime Chef-Partner, Enrique Martinez. Chef Martinez helped create their successful California restaurant, Ti Amo, and came with the family to Idaho. In the new restaurant, Chef Martinez and Castoro are moving away from the more Central American vibe of Coa De Jima. Castoro noted the nuanced differences between his soon-to-be three restaurants: “Barbacoa is heavy on steak and some seafood with the Latin flair. Coa De Jima’s high-end, Latin fusion was conceptualized to be rich with meat and seafood. At Coa Del Mar, we’re just focusing on seafood. And it won’t be one hundred percent Mexican or Latin ”

A notable, common thread is the devotion to art and sculptural installations in the Castoro restaurants, primarily thanks to Nikolai’s mother, Martine, whose fine art graces both Coa De Jima and Barbacoa. “My mom went to the Art Institute in California,” explained Castoro. “Her oil paintings are all over the restaurants. She’s impressive, and not just in fine art but interior design. And so this is our vision together. The metal installations are all Delia Dante. KovichCo Interiors’s Jordan Yankovich is our designer on Coa De Jima and Coa Del Mar, along with my mom Martine. My dad found Delia, who did the Medusa at Barbacoa. Delia’s a petite woman making these giant 3,000-pound sculptures. We came up with this tree idea together and called it “Árbol De La Vida,” the tree of life. We ripped up the floor, so it looks like it’s coming through the building, built back in 1895. She’s amazing. This one was 2,700 hours and weighs 3,000 pounds. Medusa was about 1,500 hours and 2,000 pounds ”

In every bite and restaurant, the Castoros are bringing imaginative food and excellent taste to the Treasure Valley.

Above: Cocktails at Coa De Jima are one of a kind hand-crafted cocktails made with fresh ingredients. Below: Save room for dessert, as Chef Martinez’s chocolate desserts make a perfect ending to a culinary feast. PHOTOS COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

Left: Coa De Jima owner, Nikolai Castoro in front of Delia Dante’s Árbol De La Vida. PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

Right: Grilled salmon done with Chef Enrique Martinez’s Latin flair PHOTOS COURTESY OF COA DE JIMA

KB’S: BOISE’S BURRITO BROTHERS

By April Neale

Santos

Serva is spreading his family’s wings in Eagle, Idaho, where the latest KB’s restaurant has opened its doors. The secret sauce addicts and globe-trotting t-shirt patrons are now getting their Cabo sauce fixes in the Wood River Valley and the Treasure Valley.

As Santos said, the brothers Serva are serving it up. “Our new spot is in Eagle, Idaho. But it is just me here; Rodolfo is in Hailey.” Santos shared the good news when asked about expansion into the Boise market. “The original idea [for KB’s] was from Rodolfo, my little brother, who opened it here, and then after a year, I took it over. But I came here for expansion and to try a different market.”

As an owner of KB’s, Santos relies on his immediate family. “My brothers and

I run the restaurants together,” he said. One brother mans the Wood River Valley, and the rest cover Twin Falls and McCall. Santos is excited that Eagle is where the restaurant landed in the greater Boise area and hopes that people try their bestseller, Jordan’s Burrito.

“It’s a delicious blend of pork, grilled yams, cheese, beans, guacamole, jalapeño, Cabo sauce, and salsa.” As for his best and most favorite dish? “The best one? Our fish tacos. But my other favorite is Jordan’s Burrito,” he said.

When Santos arrived in Idaho from Peru in 2008, he went to work with brother Rodolfo in the Hailey spot, and as the legend of the famous KB secret sauce got hold of the skiers and Wood River Valley folks, neither imagined that they would find success in a restaurant. But the food was

too good, and the recipes they hit upon were addictive and always made with the freshest of locally sourced ingredients.

People took notice, and now their fan base and patronage are so devout, there’s a growing trend involving the KB’s t-shirt. Santos was bemused that his patrons started this on their own, continuing as people posted photos of themselves wearing a KB’s t-shirt around the globe. “These people always have pictures of wearing our t-shirts worldwide,” Santos said. “It’s not a Facebook group, but our customers buy the t-shirts and send us their pictures. We print those pictures and sometimes put the table number on them so their friends can recognize them. And then they return and find out—and they’re so happy! They post on Facebook and social media. It’s a great thing!”

Pictured: Top left: Salmon Quinoa Salad Bottom left: Mahi Mahi Tacos. Center: KB’s owner, Santos Serva. Top right: Pork tacos. Bottom right: Fresh Shrimp Burrito.

PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY.

KB BURRITOS

KETCHUM BURRITO

Chicken, steak, or pork, cheese, black, refried, or pinto beans, guacamole, sour cream, rice, jalapeño, and salsa.

HAILEY BURRITO

Chicken, cheese, black, refried, or pinto beans, cabbage, guacamole, roasted garlic, corn, cilantro, a and salsa.

BOISE BURRITO

Wild salmon, potatoes, spinach, tomatoes, green chillies, a and creamy chipotle.

SALADS

WILD SALMON SALAD

Salmon, spring mix, tomato, brown rice, cilantro, & avocado with a side of pomegranate glaze.

QUINOA SALAD

Spring mix, quinoa, carrots, feta cheese, avocado, mandarins, cilantro and pomegranate glaze on the side.

H&G SALAD

Chicken, steak, or pork, grilled yams, romaine, cabbage, cilantro, spinach, a and guacamole with a side of salsa.

KB TACOS

FAMOUS FISH

Mahi mahi, cabbage, Cabo sauce, a and salsa in a flour tortilla with a side of limes.

CHICKEN, STEAK OR PORK

Cheese, romaine, sour cream, and salsa in a flour tortilla.

STREET TACOS

Pineapple pork, onion, radish, cilantro, & al pastor sauce served on corn tortillas

Serving grilled chicken, steak, pork, mahi mahi, shrimp, and Alaskan salmon. Think Fresh. Think KB's. So Good. So Fresh.

KB’s award-winning recipes are made fresh to order, with the healthiest, tastiest ingredients since 1993. The sauce is their secret!

2794 S Eagle Road 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Mo on.-Sat. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sun. 208-629-8553

Dine In • Curbside Pick-Up • Delivery kbsburrito.com

AMANO WINS A JAMES BEARD NOD

By Heather Hamilton-Post

WhenBecca and Salvador Alamilla opened Amano in August of 2019, they knew exactly what they wanted to do, which was to create a craft kitchen that delivered traditional Mexican food in unique ways in a vibrant, modern space. They accepted a lot of feedback, trying to act on the suggestions, well-meaning commentary, and opinions on their menu. Slowly, the Alamillas felt themselves growing away from the goals they’d set out to achieve—perhaps a case of too many cooks in the kitchen—so they learned to tune out the noise.

“Over time, we’ve naturally evolved. Now, we really know who we are. There are things we thought would work that didn’t, and surprise hits too. We’re focused on quality and relevance to our culture,” said Sal, now twice-nominated for the James Beard Award.

For Becca and Sal, food is about nostalgia too. Sal’s favorite dish is the chile colorado because it reminds him of growing up. Becca loves the chile relleno, which she craved during her pregnancy with their third child. Both agree that you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but find their favorites in the foods that offer comfort and memories.

“When you create dishes, you want people to close their eyes and think, ‘YES. That’s it. That’s what I was looking for.’ When dishes are made with care and intention, you create something special,” Sal said.

And Amano offers a true family experience, Becca explained. When Sal shared the latest James Beard nomination with his prep team (two of his aunts and his mom), they were thrilled as their work is shared in those accolades. “They let him know that they cook with their heart. And I think that it shows up,” she said.

If there’s ever a time to cook from the heart, it’s Valentine’s Day, which presents an exciting opportunity for Sal and his team. The event’s prix fixe menu is an adventurous mix of dishes and drink pairings that have never been on the menu. Becca says guests will be guided through a unique feast, with each taste inspired by something the Alamillas have experienced together.

“There’s always a reference to the past in some way. We take that and build on it with what we have here locally. Sometimes we’ll use ingredients that are a little bit different–but still traditional,” Sal said. Like many traditional kitchens in Mexico, Amano uses a wood fired oven, which offers an additional layer of flavor that can’t be replicated.

“A lot of it lives in my head. I have these visions of how it’s going to look, how it’s going to taste before I even make it. I have a recipe in my head, and then I make it and then I adjust if I need to—a little bit less salt, a little bit more chile—and it comes together based on my experience eating so many different foods,” Sal said.

So what’s the secret to good food? Becca says Sal told her early in their relationship. “You just need the right amount of a few ingredients.”

The Alamillas anticipate that the next five years will bring change, but they’re committed to keeping the experience centered around honoring Mexican culture.

Born in Mexico and raised in Santa Ana, California, Sal Alamilla was schooled by his mother’s cooking from a young age. His seared duck and a braised sweet potato is a signature dish. PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY

DRAFT ME Best Beer

BEER TODAY, DEFINITELY NOT GONE TOMORROW

Ada County remains the hub of beer production in Idaho’s bubbling brewery scene

By Micah Drew

It’s hard to keep track of the brewing industry these days. There’s always a new list out of the “Best Beer Cities in America,” and all have different methodologies. Take a 2021 list by Move.org, which listed Boise 12th in the nation on its list of “Best Cities for Beer Lovers.” The list ranked municipalities by breweries per capita, pulling numbers from an opensource database of breweries worldwide.

This leaves some glaring omissions in the Treasure Valley’s brewing scene— Garden City, for one. In 2021, at least six breweries popped up in the local enclave. Adjusting for the increased population (~12,000), Boise’s per capita brewery number increases from 7.4 to 9.9—firmly planting the City of Trees fifth on one national list. That’s not accounting for further omissions on the open-source list: sorry Western Collective, Western Proper, and Twisted District.

All this is to say, depending on how you count it and how many beers you’ve had— Boise’s brewing scene is either top notch or truly upper echelon. Either way, it’s a great place to be if you enjoy a pint. Or two.

The craft brewing renaissance has been going on for at least two decades and isn’t slowing down, especially in locations with rapidly growing populations. Statewide production has increased 43% since 2016. And while Idaho’s market share still pales on the national scale, and it’s hard to find your local favorites in a store outside the 208, plenty of Ada County’s taprooms are making brews to boast about.

According to the Brewers Association, in 2021 there were roughly 9,500 breweries in the United States, an all-time high. Across the industry, openings outpaced closings. This is clearly reflected in the Treasure Valley as 2022 saw the closure of three local brands—Crooked Fence, County Line and Craft Brewers of Boise—but County Line was replaced by a second Clairvoyant Brewing location, and Craft Brewers rebranded under new ownership and is now

operating as New Colony Beer Company (with one of the best logos in the business).

Today, expansion is the name of the game in beer, as more and more mainstays are operating multiple locations. Idaho’s largest brewery, Mother Earth Brew Co., finally opened a Boise taproom in the final weeks of 2021. Western Collective opened their downtown location, the upscale Western Proper, in 2021, and recently debuted the High Peak Hangout, a new gathering space at Bogus Basin. Sockeye Brewing opened off Hill Road, Mad Swede Brewing Company has two locations and experimental expert, Barbarian Brewing, has recently upgraded its production facility.

Barbarian co-owner Bre Hovley attributes the state of Boise’s beer scene to its relatively belated kickoff. “Boise’s craft

beer scene is relatively young compared to other established beer cities, so the room for growth and improvement continues to exist,” Hovley said. “When you add in the local population boom, this recent growth has allowed Barbarian to expand to a new brewery location with a bigger taproom and beer garden by the Garden City Greenbelt, in addition to maintaining our Downtown Boise Beer Bar.”

In addition to straight population numbers, each of Boise’s breweries and taprooms has crafted a unique disposition over the years, honing vibes that cater to specific subsects of beer drinkers, allowing them to coexist, and thrive, together.

For that reason, it’s only fitting to raise a glass to Boise’s beer culture. Then, ask for a refill.

“Boise’s craft beer scene is relatively young compared to other established beer cities, so the room for growth and improvement continues to exist.”

PHOTOS SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

RAISE A GLASS

Idaho Wine Lover’s Guide

Why Idaho’s Snake River Valley Should Be Your Next Wine Country Getaway

By Darby Tarantino

There’s no question that southern Idaho is a melting pot of everything a die-hard foodie could possibly want in a locale (hello, four James Beard Award Finalists! More on that in another issue), but when a food scene is punctuated by an equal caliber of award-winning wines from uber boutique craft vintners, the region soon becomes more than just a stop along the road, it becomes a destination.

So what makes Idaho’s Snake River Valley so unique for wine production? Let’s start with terroir, which by definition is the complete natural environment in which a particular wine is produced that includes topography, soil, and climate. The region is located in the high desert, where the elevation reaches as much as 3,000 feet above sea level in some places. The days are quite warm, (ok, they’re hot, but that’s what the Boise River is for, right?), but the evenings remain mild, which means the growing season is shorter, giving ripening fruit the chance to develop all those beautiful sugars and balanced acidity more quickly on the vine.

Then there’s soil. There’s a reason Idaho potatoes are so famous! Soil plays a huge part in grape production and here in southern Idaho, you’ll find a combination of volcanic and sandy loam soil which is key for moisture retention and drainage in the vineyard, resulting in plump, healthy grapes that produce many of the big, hardy, full-bodied reds the Snake River Valley has become known for. What’s more, the region sits on a similar parallel to central France. No wonder they’re cranking out head-turning Bordeaux and Rhône varietals such as Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, Mourvédre and my personal favorite, Viognier! In my opinion, Idaho Viogniers are a revelation; a perfect balance of fruit and acid, with aromatics of honeysuckle, white peach and citrus blossoms. They’re beautifully crisp with subtle viscosity.

Because of the climate, and potential for early snowfall, Idaho has the ability to produce the prized, highly sought-after Ice Wine which is typically found in Canada and Germany. This sweet-style, dessert wine can only be produced under the right circumstances when temperatures drop below freezing allowing the water in the grapes to crystallize, leaving the concentrated sugars at the center to remain in liquid form. As you can imagine, this process doesn’t extract much juice and therefore results in a very expensive finished product. Totally worth it, if you ask me!

As with any wine region, vinification is the yin to terroir’s yang, to round out the process from grape to glass. The magic happening behind the scenes in Snake River Valley wineries is truly a labor of visionary love. If you fancy a new-world, progressive style of wine making, you’ll find treasures such as orange wines, which are quite the trend in other wine regions. Orange wines are produced by fermenting white grapes on the skins resulting in, well, an orange colored wine, that’s tart with flavors of ripe stone fruit, citrus and herbs. You’ll also find wines being produced using carbonic maceration, which are made by introducing carbon dioxide into the fermentation tanks creating an anaerobic atmosphere, with no oxygen. This process results in bright, low-tannic wines that are bursting with juicy fruit. Can you say, party on your palate!

If an old-world style of wine better suits you, there’s no shortage of wines to check off your list. Idaho’s top varietals include Tempranillo, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Riesling, which can be found in a dry style, off-dry (semi-sweet), or sweet. In many wineries in the valley, you’ll find wines being aged in centuries-old vessels such as concrete which allows the wine to maintain the integrity of its terroir (remember, topography, soil and climate!) without the influence of oak. You may even find ceramic amphoras being used in some wineries. This aging process, which is similar to concrete, allows the wine to maintain its freshness so the fruit shines through in your glass preserving all those lovely flavors and aromatics.

Idaho’s Snake River Valley has it all. It’s a wine (and beer and food) lover’s playground and whatever you’re seeking, you’re sure to find it among the dozens of wineries available for tasting. So before you head out the door on your next wine adventure, don’t forget to add Idaho to the top of your list. It’s certainly worthy of your next Wine Country Getaway. Until then, drink well, love often, and stay enlightened!

PHOTOS SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Signature Favorites

APPETIZERS

CHATEAU ESCARGOT

Traditional French Escargot served in the shell with lemon, garlic and herb butter

BRUSCHETTA AL PESTO

Grilled garlic brushed baguette topped with pesto, tomato, basil, balsamic reduction and pecorino romano

BAKED BRIE EN CROUTE

Double cream French brie baked in a pastry with orchard chutney

SOUP

CANAL DU MIDI FRENCH ONION SOUP

Rich onion and beef bone broth, croutons, swiss cheese

DINNER

SALMON WELLINGTON

Salmon filet with spinach florentine, parmesan, and cream cheese wrapped in a puff pastry topped with lemon beurre blanc sauce

LOVE AND PASSION CHICKEN

Chicken breast with mushrooms, capers, tomato demi, and wine sauce made with Roghani Vineyards 2015 Love & Passion Red Blend

RACK OF LAMB DIJONNAISE

Dredged in dijon, coated in herbed panko, and topped with lamb jus demi glace

House Wines

from Roghani Vineyards

RED & ROSÉ

2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

2018 Shiraz

2015 Love & Passion Red Blend

2016 Love & Passion Red Blend

2016 Rosé Sec

WHITE

2014 Unoaked Chardonnay

2014 Chardonnay

2018 Chardonnay

2019 Chardonnay

2014 Platinume White Blend

ON THE SWEETER SIDE

2016 Late Harvest Blush Rosé

2014 Riesling

2014 Late Harvest Riesling

2015 Riesling

2015 Late Harvest Riesling

2018 Muscatiesling

2019 Muscatiesling

WINE BRAISED SHORT RIB

try our award-winning wines from our family owned private vineyards available at our restaurant and for take-home

OUR WEBSITE menu and reservations

Slowly braised in Roghani Vineyards 2015 Love & Passion Red Blend, topped with herbes de Provence and demi glace

SPIRITED ART Bardenay Spirits are Crafted in Idaho

By April Neale

Oneof Idaho’s older distilleries, Bardenay Distillery, is devoted to proving itself as a standard maker, mover, and shaker among the growing collection of distilleries in the Gem State. Its first releases go back to Prohibition days, as Josh Malone, the production manager for Bardenay Distillery, tells us they were the first public distillery (a distillery combined with a bar) post-Prohibition in the United States. Cut to 1999, and the landmark brick warehouse on the Basque Block in downtown Boise, Idaho, was where the Federal Government issued Bardenay the first permit ever given to a distiller to operate in a public space. Then on April 25, 2000, Bardenay served the first cocktail with spirits crafted right on the premises.

They make award-winning craft dry gin, vodka, rum, and whiskey, all of which make up their well brands for lucky imbibers who come in for the classic cocktails they tastefully turn out. “We make different products at each location. We have three distilleries, and each distillery makes different products,” said Malone. “Here in Boise, we make rums and whiskey. In Coeur d’Alene, we make vodka; in Eagle, Idaho, we make gin,

lemon vodka, and fruit liquors. Each one makes different products and is made in a different process.” Malone noted that their ambitions are to distribute beyond Idaho’s borders someday. “In the retail world, our gin is the flagship, but like other establishments, we sell lots of vodkas,” he said. “You can purchase all of our spirits in Idaho liquor stores. We have been growing our quality versus a push to sell out of the state, but that potential distribution is hopefully in the near future.”

How do they create a dry gin? Malone said that the botanicals begin with the classic note of juniper. Critics have penned poetic prose saluting Bardenay’s artistic hand with a spirit few realize is a complex melange of nature’s most aromat-

ic herbs. Bardenay’s gins come at you with subdued flavors of peppery spices, citrus, herbal roots, and even floral notes that are essential to any mixologist. “Our gin is distilled, then juniper berry is added, being the staple flavor. And then we work in twelve botanicals for the final finished spirit,” said Malone.

The craft approach mirrors the ethos in their Bardenay restaurants; everything is made from scratch and can be described as field to table. Malone noted this local Idaho supplier connection. “So fermentation, distillation, flavoring, filtration, and bottling—we do everything at each location from scratch and from start to finish. All our spirits are made onsite from start to finish. We ferment sugar, water, yeast, and other nutrients for seven to ten days, then the distillation process through the still,” he said. “At that point, we have high-proof alcohol. And then we decide what we’re going to make with it. We currently purchase our grain through an Idaho producer and have Idaho rye for our whiskey. We don’t use coloring. Our rum is also made with 1% caramel from a hundred percent cane sugar.”

Taste the spirit of Idaho in all of Bardenay’s spirits!

Left: Distiller Josh Malone. Center: Bardenay’s gleaming copper still produces light rum, dry gin, and vodka from fermented sugar cane. Right: The Moscow Idaho Mule is a beautifully reworked cocktail that is a Bardenay best-seller. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BARDENAY

DISCOVER THE “GOOD PLACE” Historic Leku Ona

by Pamela Kleibrink Thompson

Historic downtown Boise Basque restaurant Leku Ona is Euskara for “good place.” And Leku Ona boasts incredible regional cuisine with well-preserved family recipes that never fail while immersing you in authentic Basque culture. Opened in December 2005 and located in downtown Boise in the heart of the Basque Block, when you enter Leku Ona, you feel the establishment’s roots that travel back to Euskal Herria, their homeland, a small region between Spain and France in the Pyrenees.

Leku Ona’s Executive Chef, Asier Garcia, was born and raised in the Basque Country, in Bizkaia. He studied culinary arts and trained with Chef Martín Berasategui, the Basque chef and restaurateur with the most Michelin stars in Spain. After traveling throughout his homeland, Garcia moved to the United States and worked at Boise’s best restaurants, including Chandler’s Prime Steaks & Fine Seafood. Today, Chef Garcia shines with his honed Basque culinary repertoire at Leku Ona. “Every recipe at Leku Ona is authentic Basque,” said Garcia. “I worked for ten years in Basque country—from the coastline to the mountains—and incorporated all of that experience in the dishes at Leku Ona. The only thing on the menu that is not entirely authentic is the lamb shank entree which has been Americanized.”

Seafood, lamb, and beef feature prominently on their menu, and every dish is infused with mouthwatering regional flavors. However, Chef Garcia recommends starting with croquetas or other tapas items to kick off the full-course Basque restaurant experience. “My mom used to make croquetas. Everyone’s mom made them,” said Garcia, who makes them with Serrano ham, fennel kimchi, romesco, green onions, and regional red chili pepper powder, piment d’espelette. “When you make croquetas, you have to let the batter cool before you can roll it,” he said. “So sometimes when my mom made croquetas, my brothers and I [would] eat the dough before she got a chance to roll them.”

Caldwell’s Boise River lamb chops served with chimichurri; trout a la Navarra—Hagerman trout with serrano-garlic refrito

and Basque cider; and grilled salmon with roasted garlic, chili oil, and green onion are just a few of the dinner entree options from Chef Garcia.

Popular lunch options include a lamb burger made with Boise River lamb, arugula, roasted peppers, and romesco on brioche or the Leku Ona Burger.

Finish your fine dining experience with chocolate goxua. Found in many Basque pastry shops, the translation of goxua is “sweet or tasty.” The traditional dessert is a decadent blend of sponge cake, whipped cream, pastry cream, chocolate, and sugar.

Keeping with its heritage as a former boarding house that opened in 1935, Leku Ona’s old-world feel continues to welcome tourists and residents alike with charming decor showcasing Basque traditions. The garlic and food aromas wafting from the bustling kitchen onto the street will lure you into this “good place.” Leku Ona and the adjoining boutique historic hotel in the heart of Boise’s Basque Block radiate the colorful Basque spirit and its authentic tastes and culture right here in Idaho.

From croquetas to Basque-style charcuterie, the recipes and selection at Leku Ona reflect the recipes and heritage of the owners and chef.

PHOTO BY OLIVIA FIXON

PHOTO BY KAREN DAY

SERRANO CROQUETAS

• 1 1/8 cups / 140 gr flour

• 14 TBL / 200 gr butter

• 1/2 yellow onion, minced

• ⅔ cup / 100 gr Serrano ham cut to matchsticks

• 4 ⅛ cups/ 1 L. whole milk

• panko breadcrumbs

• 3 eggs

• salt to taste

• Mince the onion and sweat it in the melted butter. Heat the milk in a separate pot and set aside. Slice the Serrano ham into matchsticks (lardons), add the ham to the onion, and sweat for another ten minutes.

• Add flour to form a roux, and make sure all the flour is completely integrated into the butter.

• Start adding the milk to the roux, slowly mixing nonstop. Once the milk is fully incorporated, let it softly boil for a couple of minutes and season to taste.

• Transfer this mixture to a pan, and cover it with plastic wrap, making sure the wrap is in direct contact with the dough so that it doesn’t form a crust. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.

FORM THE CROQUETAS:

• Set up a rolling station using a small pan with panko breadcrumbs and one bowl with whisked eggs. Roll a piece of dough about 1 ounce in weight, drop it in the egg, then onto the breadcrumbs. Cover the croquetas in breadcrumbs and form into a round cylinder. Place in a pan and refrigerate uncovered.

FRY THE CROQUETAS:

• In a deep heavy pot (cast iron will be great) filled halfway with a neutral oil—canola will do. Heat up to 350F and slowly drop a few croquetas at a time, don’t overcrowd or the temperature will drop too much and the croquetas will burst.

• After 3 minutes or until golden brown, transfer the croquetas to a serving tray lined with towel paper. Serve with dipping sauce.

Croquetas at Leku Ona are made from Serrano ham, fennel kimchi, romesco, green onions, piment d’ezpelette and are made for sharing. PHOTO BY OLIVIA FIXON

Appetizers

Croquetas

Serrano ham, fennel kimchi, romesco, green onions, piment d’ezpelette

Calamari

Seasoned flour, ink aioli, lemon wedge

Charcuterie Platter

Serrano ham, salami, Iberico chorizo, capicola, Manchego cheese, pickles, olives, mustard, toasted baguette

Salads/Soups

Leku Ona Salad

Arcadian mix, tomatoes, onions, olives, egg, Manchego, croutons, with house dressing. Add Salmon or steak

Tuna Belly Piquillo Salad

Tuna belly, romaine hearts, piquillo peppers, olives, eg,g Basque pepper vinaigrette

SEAFOOD

Petrale Sole

Fried sole, seafood bechamel, blue swimming crab

Trout a la Navarra

Hagerman trout, prosciutto-garlic refrito, Basque cider

Grilled Salmon

A la Plancha, roasted garlic, chili oil, scallion

BEEF

Solomillo

A la Plancha filet mignon, Manchego cream sauce

Entrecotte

Grilled New York, sliced and garlic basted

Kg Txuleton

Bone in Rib Eye, sliced and garlic basted

LAMB

Braised Lamb Shank

Braised lamb hindshank, Rioja demi-glace

Lamb Chops

Boise River lamb chops, house chimichurri

By Tim Atwell

It was a gray, snowy day last January when Idaho’s independent food and beverage businesses congregated at Jack’s Urban Meeting Place (JUMP) in downtown Boise. In contrast to the dreary weather, the Field to Fork Festival was bright, busy, and cheerful. Like an indoors farmer’s market, the inside of the JUMP building was lined with rows of table-clothed booths on the third and fifth floor, with each booth representing a local business. Meanwhile on the ground floor, the JUMP community kitchen was open for the guests to enjoy demonstrations from some of Idaho’s top chefs, including James Beard nominees Dan Ansotegui and Nate Whitley.

One of the defining features of the event was the participants’ willingness to share what they had to offer: bites of

ostrich meatballs from American Ostrich Farms, samples of specialty coffee roasts from Dawson Taylor, and a crash course in fungiculture from Dream Girl Farms. Offerings downstairs were just as exciting, with dozens of people crowding around the kitchen to see top-level chefs

in action and enjoy samples of oysters, chorizo, and other local favorites.

The Field to Fork Festival was hosted by FARE Idaho, a non-profit that sprang to life to support Idaho’s independent businesses during the shutdown in Spring 2020. By joining forces and finding ways to help one another, the independent businesses that comprise FARE Idaho were able to help each other deal with several difficult years in the independent food and beverage industry.

“Our job at FARE Idaho is to help build a more sustainable and resilient food system here in Idaho. Our goal with Field to Fork is to bring everybody together under one roof,” said Katie Baker, Executive Director of FARE Idaho. “Not only to celebrate Idaho food and beverage, but to build deeper connections.”

“Our goal with Field to Fork is to bring everybody together under one roof. Not only to celebrate Idaho food and beverage, but to build deeper connections.”

The first annual Field to Fork festival was held at JUMP Boise on January 19, 2023. PHOTO BY MARILYN ISAAC PHOTOGRAPHY

In addition to exhibitor booths and cooking classes, the Field to Fork Festival offered several educational sessions hosted by panels of experts from Idaho’s independent food and beverage industry. Ranchers described the challenges of competing with corporations who could process cattle for half the cost of a family-owned ranch. Hops growers celebrated the vibrance and flavor of Idaho’s hops, but also took a more somber tone when discussing the current oversupply issue facing Idaho’s hop farms.

During the Q&A portion of the sessions, a question that kept arising from the audience was, “What would solve your problems?” Again, everyone seemed eager to share what they had to offer, to collaborate and look for solutions to the challenges faced by Idaho’s independent businesses. Though there were a wide range of backgrounds, businesses, and industries represented in the room, everyone seemed intent on finding new ways to help one another. As one panelist described it, the group was a “community of trust.”

Building community at Field to Fork was a top priority for Alexander Keoki, Marketing Coordinator at Teff Company, local food blogger, podcaster, gastronomist, and champion of FARE Idaho. “We’re so much stronger as a community. It’s important to have that connectivity for businesses, and to help these family farms thrive,” Keoki said. “I’m hoping this is an annual event, and I’m also hoping for more routine events throughout the year to keep the connections within the community.”

Keoki was just one of many in attendance willing to share their resources, ideas, and talents with the community. Even when the session panelists were discussing the seemingly overwhelming challenges they faced, it was with a tone of optimism. That optimism was contagious, and it seemed to affect everyone in the room.

When people asked, “What would solve your problems?”, the underlying question seemed to be, “What can we do to help?”

In that way, the Field to Fork Festival brought together a community of independent businesses, and it gave them a space to connect, collaborate, and ask questions about what everyone could do to help one another.

“Listen to the problems,” said Rocci Johnson, co-owner of Humpin’ Hannahs, head of the Rocci Johnson Band, and co-secretary of FARE Idaho. “Listen to the problems that our family-owned businesses are facing. Let’s find a way to assist with all of that and make sure our food chain is secure. Make sure that we’re doing what we can to make sure that food security in Idaho is sustainable and safe and abundant.”

Johnson’s appeal seemed to resonate at the Field to Fork Festival. While the day was filled with impactful speakers, lessons, and discussions, it was listening to the stories of people who are committed to bringing us all the best quality life and food that made the most powerful impression. It’s our food, so maybe we should listen more often.

Left: Katie Baker, Executive Director of Fare Idaho. Right: DOMA Coffee of Post Falls, Idaho is named for founders Rebecca and Terry Patano’s sons Dominic and Marco. DOMA’s logo captures that family spirit with an illustration of Terry’s father, while its sustainable packaging conveys its dual focus on environmentally friendly practices.

PHOTO BY MARILYN ISAAC PHOTOGRAPHY

“Listen to the problems that our family-owned businesses are facing. Let’s find a way to assist with all of that and make sure our food chain is secure.”

THE SURPRISES OF HOME-ROASTING COFFEE

By Tim Atwell

“This one reminds me of going camping,” I said, inhaling the rich aromas of the Organic DR Congo Mapendo that my coffee guide, Aaron Nelson, had poured for me. It was my first cupping, and there was a row of coffee mugs lined up on the table in front of me to smell, taste, and evaluate. As I worked my way down the row of mugs, I found each to contain a coffee different than anything I had ever tasted.

On the next cup, Nelson described tasting notes including plum, honey, and apricot, while I described it as blueberry waffles. Eggo waffles, to be exact. Our difference in opinion highlighted our divergent backgrounds—as Director of Coffee at Dawson Taylor, Nelson had thousands of blends, roast styles, and varieties to compare his tasting notes, while I had a simpler frame of reference (e.g., waffles)— but by sharing a taste of several types of great coffee, we had something to bond over. It elevated the experience of drinking coffee in the same way a great meal can

elevate eating, or a bottle of fine wine can elevate consuming alcohol.

Participating in the coffee cupping was one of many unexpected but pleasant surprises I’ve experienced since I started roasting my own coffee last summer. I now regularly receive unroasted coffee on my doorstep, green and dense, with a rich, chocolatey fragrance that bursts from the shipping bags when I open them. I find myself using a kitchen scale to measure the coffee before I place it in my roaster—a small, countertop device that looks like a popcorn maker or a blender. The roaster stays outside in the summer and in the garage in the winter, places where smoke emanating from the beans won’t activate the smoke alarm.

During the roast, I keep a close eye on the coffee and adjust the temperature and airflow as needed. A little fan circulates the beans to ensure an even disbursement of heat, and I watch as the beans bounce and swell in the roaster. When they change from green to brown, they start crackling like little popcorn kernels, and I know

they’re almost ready. Each batch is different, but by monitoring the temperature, time, and color, I’m able to achieve my desired roast level.

The fragrance of the freshly roasted coffee is tempting, but I leave it untouched for a day to give it time to release CO2. As the gas is released, the coffee’s flavor becomes stronger and more vibrant. It sits on the counter overnight before I move it to an airtight container, where it will retain its peak flavor for several days.

Even after a year of home roasting, I find myself a beginner in all aspects of the coffee’s journey. The cupping experience taught me I still have much to learn about where my coffee is sourced, the subtle art of roasting and blending, and appreciating the complex flavors and aromas in the final cup. When it comes to coffee, though, there is a joy in being a beginner and having a whole world of knowledge and experiences ahead. There’s joy in tasting a coffee and saying, with a hint of surprise, “Ahh, this one tastes like blueberry waffles—and I love it!”

PHOTOS BY TIM ATWELL

MARTINI MASTERS Rex a.k.a.

Chandlers

By April Neale

Onevisit to Boise’s landmark

Chandlers

Prime Steaks & Fine Seafood restaurant at the base of Hotel 43 sealed the deal. Instantly, you find yourself transported to adult land, where your culinary experience will command every attention to detail executed by the city’s best-trained staff.

Famous people use social media to share their experiences when passing through Boise, with actor and comedian Patton Oswalt recently expressing on Twitter: “Um, I love you Boise,” with a short video he took of Chandlers’ jazz king, Mike Rosenthal, and vocalist Emily Stanton doing their magic by the busy horseshoe-shaped bar. The entire vibe of Chandlers hearkens to a last-century coolness that few restaurants can recreate anymore. Chandler’s menu defies trendiness yet keeps the classics continually refreshed and modern.

The soft, mood-setting live jazz adds to the impeccable service and artfully presented dishes. Everyone is bathed in warm glowy lighting. Sink into the comfy

oversized banquettes and order the perfect ten-minute martini, or peruse one of Idaho’s most extensive curated wine lists. In short, make every effort to book a table. Owner Rex Chandler dines at his restaurant as often as he can. His eye for detail and devotion to his longtime vendors, from Hawaii to Washington State, ensure that you get the best oysters, mussels, ahi, halibut, black cod, and even one of his favorites, the abalone. Idaho’s award-winning Riverence supplies sweet steelhead trout. Meat lovers also win big here, even though Chandler himself told us that he leans into the seafood side of his menu more often these days.

“I always recommend the Delmonico, the filet with the bone in, giving you the tenderness of the filet—but all the texture and sinew that connects the filet with the bone, which is where all that superb flavor is. A real specialty cut,” he said. “But honestly, these days, I eat more fish than anything else, and my go-to [order] is usually seafood. We often dine with friends so that everybody will try

a different dish, and my job is always to observe and add to the quality control.”

Chandler takes his role as Boise’s “godfather” of fine dining seriously. Chandler hailed from Southern California and began in the restaurant business, migrating to Hawaii and Sun Valley. In Ketchum, Idaho, he created the first Chandlers, open for 15 years until 2007, when Chandler eyed Boise as the natural place to expand his restaurant holdings. And lucky for all of us, his expansion will soon include a new Ling & Louie’s restaurant on the Boise River in a prime destination location.

One common thread will be the hallmark level of service that he imparts to all his staff. “Service is our defining hallmark where we stand out from the others,” he said. “Of course, the food; the cuisine has to be excellent. And if it is not, you shouldn’t be doing this. The food must always be outstanding. The difference between dining at Chandlers is the level of service and hospitality and the sincere warmth and welcoming always delivered in a professional manner.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHANDLERS

family owned and operated since 2015