ISSUE 2 MAY 2015
pAGE 02
© 2014-2015 mrwilliam ltda. Hernán Cortés 2974 8C - Santiago - Chile - Postal code 7770005 Phone (+56 2) 2 933 1891 - Mobile (+569) 8294 8917 - (+569) 72992187. Write your suggestions, ideas or comments to infoifmagazine@gmail.com Share us using the hashtag #ifmagazine_ Cover: Jorge González Araya Design and layout mrwilliam ltda Style check Carol Caro Translation: Fernanda Brajovic Issue 2 - May 2015 iF magazine is published by mr william Ltda. 2014-15. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or used without permission of the publisher and their collaborators. All illustrations are protected by copyright of each illustrator.
pAGE 03
pAGE 04
Hi everyone! We welcome you to the second issue of our magazine . We are happy! We have said that so many times in recent days but the truth is that the concept that best represents what we feel at this time with this beautiful project called iF magazine. For this new issue we wanted to make some changes to the structure of some part of the magazine , because we realized that there were areas of fashion that did not cover and which are very important as fashion photography and chilean fashion designers. We also closed two major alliances . The first with the Museo de la Moda of Chile , the most importan in Latin America and the second with the Creative Campus of the Andres Bello University of Chile , with this , we will have exclusive contents, interviews and much more that will be revealed with each new issue of our magazine. All we can say now is thank you to our collaborators for sharing with all of us your wonderful work and also to our sponsors for believing and support this project that is growing strongly. Enjoy, share y comment! A big hug Aly & Guille iF magazine founders
pAGE 05
01
Sergio Davila
por Laura Izquierdo
Rolando Santana by Paula Blanche
Esteban Pérez by Esteban Pérez
Paulo Mendez por Cecilia Román
Angel Sanchez
by Augusto Graciano
Oscar de la Renta by Jean Bastien
Meche Correa by Karina Billa
Claudio Mansilla
by María Eugenia Gelemur
Narciso Rodríguez by Melina Rapimán
Matías Hernán by Vanesa Lira
Carlos Campos by René Casanova
Ignacio Lechuga by Connie Lemon
Esteban Cortazar by Marcelo Parra
Carolina Herrera by Nicole Karich
Lucio Castro
por Felipe Yuraszeck
010 012
Alessandra Meskita por Francesco Messina
038 040
02
014 016 018 020 022
Donald Robertson
044
Chuck & Chelsea
048
Nicole Jarecz
052
03
024 026 028 030 032 034 036
Marcela Urivi Volver
Paulina Kim Joo Ioya
Erté I George Lepape Melina Rapimán
Ignacio Lechuga Pasarela Valparaíso
Pierre Balmain
El misterio de un genio
Espínola
Arquitectura & Moda
058 062 066 068 070 074
01 16 fashion illustrators RECREATE WITH HIS OWN VISION THE MOST ICONIC PIECES OF 16 LATINOS FASHION DESIGNER
pAGE 010
ROLANDO SANTANA
Illustration by Paula Blanche
My name is Paula Blanche, I was born in Arica, and currently I live in Iquique. I’m an Integral Designer and freelance Illustrator, lover of fashion and films. I incorporated this year to the Lemonade Agency Illustration team. My illustrations are 100% inspired in fashion and female beauty, my signature is basically digital and with a minimalist style, that is also reflected in many aspects of my daily life. I can spend hours looking at fashion magazines and blogs to inspire my work. I’ve collaborated to different brands, magazines and fashion blogs in Chile and abroad.
pAGE 011
ESTEBAN PÉREZ
Illustration by Esteban Pérez
My name is Esteban Pérez, fashion designer, illustrator and freelance fashion producer. Currently I dedicate myself to the promotion of my author design brand GUSTAVO ENPURO. Fashion illustration is one of my passions. I draw since I was little; to me fashion and design are born from drawing, it´s our bridge from fantasy to reality and its posterior execution – manufacturing.
pAGE 012
pAGE 013
pAGE 014
PAULO MENDEZ Illustration by Cecilia Román
I’m an integral designer, with 20 years of experience in different areas, initially in graphic design, corporate image development, editorial diagramming of books and newspapers. I have studies of clothing in Paris, France, as well as visual merchandiser works for the international brand Gap. I teach fashion history, trends and production at universities. Also I’m an entrepreneur, with my own children’s clothing and accessories line, nana-nanai.
pAGE 015
ANGEL SANCHEZ Illustration by Augusto Graciano
I’m 22 years old, and I’m a student in the School of Visual Arts Martin A. Malharro in Mar del Plata, Argentina, specializing in Fashion Illustrations. I was a finalist in the 1° International Fashion Illustration and Figurines contest in 2013, done by the editorial ANAYA Multimedia (Spain), for the development of the book “Figurines de Moda – Técnicas y Estilos” published in 2014. My trace is delicate; I work mainly with pencil and water colors, without leaving behind the digital resources with the idea to accomplish a simple esthetic that reflects the essence of beauty and fashion.
pAGE 016
pAGE 017
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Illustration by Jean Bastien
Fashion allows you to push the limits and taboos, the same as art does. In my work I search to create slender images that reflect the feelings or situations of my characters.They are usually idealizations of real people that have been an important part of my life, trying to make each piece with intimacy, history and soul. The result is a piece that’s inside the psychological portrait.
pAGE 018
pAGE 019
pAGE 020
MECHE CORREA
Illustration by Karina Billa
In 2005 I graduated as an Architect from Las Americas University, where I also took some extracurricular classes in Plastic Arts. In my work I use almost exclusively pen and ink for my drawings, the themes I choose are portraits, flora and fauna, botanic, architecture, fashion and the complex relationship between the human race and nature. Since 2002 I’ve been participating in different collective and individual shows, in Santiago and Valparaiso. I’m currently working in my next show entitled: “France, more than the Eiffel tower” that will be exhibited in the French Institute of Chile, in the city of Santiago de Chile.
pAGE 021
pAGE 022
CLAUDIO MANSILLA
Illustration by María Eugenia Gelemur
I’m 26 years old; I live in Argentina, where I’m taking the last courses in the Graphic Design career in the Buenos Aires University. I work in design studies, developing activities related to branding and editorial design, also I took several illustration workshops, and currently I’m a member of the collective “La Vuelta al Mes en 30 Ilustradores”. I coursed pattern classes, to apply them to my textile illustrations, generating textures and inventing designs and weaves, always playing with color. At first, my pieces may seem abstract, but inside of them you can find characters and a big reminiscence to nature. I love plants.
pAGE 023
NARCISO RODRÍGUEZ Illustration by Melina Rapimán
Melina Rapimán (1977): Fashion Designer, textile artist and illustrator. I’ve had individual exhibits in libraries, cultural centers, and collectively in Matucana 100, Plop!Gallery and the Bellas Artes National Museum. In 2014 I was invited as a speaker in the event FILBA Santiago in light of my first comic book “Hambre Prístina” (Tábula Rasa). I teach design and textile workshops for the Fashion Design career in AIEP. One of my pieces was used by the actress María Doyle Kennedy, in the BBC series “Orphan Black”. pAGE 024
pAGE 025
pAGE 026
MATÍAS HERNÁN Illustration by Vanesa Lira
My name is Vanesa Lira, I was born in Buenos Aires, but I’ve lived my whole life in Chile. I’m an Image Designer and Art Director, something that keeps me busy not only in the professional but also in a personal way. I always try to project my visual world through works or my daily photographs (Instagram), incorporating creativity in the small mundane details. Collages are an important part of my passions, reuniting with lost images in magazines I buy in the flea markets, and intervening them with different situations is something magical for me. I hope you like my work and follow me in the social networks so that we can exchange ideas, make friends and nurture each other with visual proposals. I am RAREZASDEVANEZA.
pAGE 027
pAGE 028
CARLOS CAMPOS Illustration by René Casanova
I’m an Industrial Designer from Valparaíso University and I’ve been in the world of design since very young, drawing, painting and inventing. I’ve been exploring different platforms where I pour all my creativity. Illustrating has been a challenge in which I’m always experimenting and perfecting. I’ve collaborated in several independent design collectives. Currently I’m part of the creative team for the known home design brand, Casaideas.
pAGE 029
IGNACIO LECHUGA Illustration by Connie Lemon
I’m Constanza M. Novoa, better known as Connie Lemon. I’m 22 years old and I’m a graphic and multimedia designer, and also a self-taught illustrator. I’ve always liked the world of fashion, as well as art and design, so I can develop my work in those areas. My job is really enriching, because you never stop learning. To illustrate, I always think of a concept to develop and I start to look for references for the background, textures and poses. It’s important for me the realization of this process, so I can improve various aspects and have a better result.
pAGE 030
pAGE 031
ESTEBAN CORTAZAR Illustration by Marcelo Parra
My name is Marcelo Parra, I’m a graphic designer by profession, musician in Delatores (indie band) and illustrator for the brand Chirita. Illustration is one of my biggest passions and I’ve done it since I was a kid, for me is something so daily as to listening to music o walking, this discipline has allowed me to come close to the world of fashion. When I carry out my works I like to take inspiration from anatomy and botanic, creating characters with rigid poses that generate a feeling of fragility, as if what you have in front of you was something fleeting that vanishes on each look you take.
pAGE 032
pAGE 033
CAROLINA HERRERA
Illustration by Nicole Karich
I studied digital illustration in Duoc Institute, but I´ve always had the bug of drawing, I would buy comics just to see the drawings (I wouldn’t read them) and it always called my attention the illustrators I was getting to know. They would develop different esthetics, some with more lengthened characters, others chubbier, the use of saturated or unsaturated colors, the valorization of the line, etc. That’s how I was getting inspired and daring to do things with my own touch, searching for an identity through drawing. pAGE 034
pAGE 035
pAGE 036
LUCIO CASTRO Illustration by Felipe Yuraszeck
I studied graphic design in the University of Chile. Illustration to me has always been an area of great interest in which I’m always looking for new ways of expression. Currently I work in the development of products for a known retail brand, focused mainly in the design of surfaces and its illustration. What I look for with my illustrations it´s to capture a contemporary message through a minimalist language.
pAGE 037
SERGIO DAVILA Illustration by Laura Izquierdo
My name is Laura Izquierdo and I am graphic designer and illustrator. Currently residing in Valencia ( Spain ), working as a graphic designer in the textile sector. My illustrations are expressive, and generally in manual technique. At this stage I am specializing in a more personal illustration , with children touches that give them a great intensity.
pAGE 038
pAGE 039
ALESSANDRA MESKITA
Illustration by Francesco Messina
I was born in 1979 in Catania , Sicily. I studied to become a painter and restorer . I perfected working on restoration sites for ten years. For five years I taught design courses and scenery "painting techniques" and "History of the show" in Sicily. But the constant research, the need and passion for painting led me to move to Milan to face the career. With a keen eye and always attentive to the movements of the paint on the outside , I try to express reflecting the world itself .
pAGE 040
pAGE 041
02 3 INTERNAtIONAL fashion illustrators SHARES PART OF THEIR PORTFOLIO SHOWING WHY ARE SO RELEVANT FIGURES TODAY
pAGE 044
pAGE 045
pAGE 046
DONALD ROBERSTON © Copyright Donald Robertson. All righst reserved.
We discovered his work through his Instagram account and it was love at first sight, since then we’ve follow him faithfully. We love his fresh style, bold and with a good dose of humor. Robertson, born in Toronto, Canada, works as creative director of special projects for Estée Lauder, but also has been related, in his country, with the launch of MAC cosmetics, and was creative director of magazines such as Glamour and Cargo, where he had to do a redesign. He studied art, but was soon suggested to leave school because he was considered too commercial. During 2012 he opened an Instagram account and his success was almost instant, becoming a perfect space to show his prolific creations. With pieces of color tape, markers o quick strokes, he can capture the essence of the iconic characters that he illustrates, or the fashion collections of diverse designers and brands. We find his work greatly inspiring, not only because of his style and control of technique, but also for his constant search of new ways to illustrate fashion, giving it a style that invites to reflect on the importance of creativity and innovation.
pAGE 047
pAGE 048
pAGE 049
CHUCK &CHELSEA © Copyright Chuck&Chelsea. All rights reserved.
We discovered their fashion illustration blog (Chuck&Chelsea) through Tumblr and we loved their work, starring two human dogs, Chuck and his partner Chelsea, always dressed in luxury brands like Thom Browne, Alexander McQueen, Comme Des Garçons or Prada among others. Their beautiful illustrations are highlighted by their intricate but minimalist details. Louise Kim and Michelle Yoon, both Canadian and now living in New York City, are the creative minds behind Chuck & Chelsea. Louise (artist) is the daily creator of most of the illustrations shown in their blog, using markers and paint. While Michelle (designer) complements the work by creating designs and accessories for Chuck & Chelsea and also writing the fashion reviews. The most attracting thing in their illustrations is the contemporary proposal, and the highly esthetic style with a wink of European comic books like Hergé. It’s very inspiring to see how this fusion gives their work such a unique vision and shows, once more, the multiple inspiration sources of the fashion illustration. pAGE 050
pAGE 051
pAGE 052
pAGE 053
pAGE 054
NICOLE JARECZ © Copyright Nicole Jarecz. All rights reserved.
Flipping through the pages of the book “Illustration Now! Fashion", we discovered Nicole’s work, and it’s beautiful and feminine style immediately captures our attention, through the impeccable use of diverse techniques like water colors, graphite and ink among others. Her iconography it’s filled with details that reveal a unique atmosphere, where sensations deliver that personal nature, so distinctive of her way of looking at fashion illustration. Originally from Detroit, Nicole graduated in 2010 from the School of Creative Studies as a Licensed in Fine Arts, moving afterwards to Paris, where she has until now, been developing as a fashion illustrator. Among her clients we find Glamour Magazine, Elle Girl Japan, Marie Claire China and many others. What inspires us the most about Nicole is the essence of her work, and how she mixes a classic illustration style and reinterprets it with a young vision and touches of pop that shows the way past and future coexist in fashion illustration. pAGE 055
03 A SELECTION OF DIFFERENT topics FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY, ILLUSTRATIOn OR FASHION DESIGN mixed to inform and entertain
pAGE 058
pAGE 059
pAGE 060
VOLVER
© Copyright Marcela Urivi. All rights reserved.
“Volver” is a personal project that combines art directing with fashion design and sustainability, they are small collections of limited editions, developed from recycled preexisting clothing items, made with noble fabrics and other new ones, but stored for years in old shops around town. Each collection has a particular style and setting, that relates with the others by the same idea: to cherish what we wear and to give privilege to the quality over quantity. Buy less, live better, reduce the environmental impact and acquire a real commitment with sustainability in the world we live today.
pAGE 061
pAGE 062
pAGE 063
pAGE 064
IOYA
© Copyright Paulina Kim Joo. All rights reserved.
I’m the daughter of South-Korean immigrants. Since little I’ve lived the great difference between what was living with my family and their eagerness to preserve the traditions and culture of a country that they abandon more than 25 years ago, and what I lived outside my home, here in Santiago. Besides many things I didn´t understand because I could not do them just for being a woman, like playing with cars or wear certain types of clothes. I traveled back to Korea a couple of years ago, only to find nothing about my family and their stories. 25 years can change a nation completely. Along with my father, I came to the conclusion that our city of birth no longer exists, so that generated the idea of inventing my own village. I took concepts from orientalism, Japanese pop culture, something from the anthropologist photographic registers and started creating my own characters and objects that will fill my imaginary village.
pAGE 065
ERTÉ Born in 1892 in Rusia, but based in Paris, Erté was one of the most prolific fashion illustrator of his generation. His work included wardrobe design for musicals, set design for movies, jewelry and fashion illustrations, among others. He is considered the most important representative artist of the Art Decó, style which he adopted, developed and elevated to the category of art, during his whole career. Erté’s biggest contribution to fashion illustration was that he united art and fashion in a majestic way. Through his incomparable style, he gave women a sophisticated and glamorous air that he keeps being reinterpreted today. He was one of the first illustrators that worked the concept of androgyny for his figurines. During his extensive trajectory he collaborated in around 250 covers for Harper’s Bazaar, also for Cosmopolitan and Vogue. He also created illustrations for the fashion agency Poiret. He’s career was current for over 80 years, until his death in 1990. pAGE 066
GEORGES LEPAPE Georges Lepape was born in Paris around 1887, and studies in the School of Fine Arts where he related with big artists such as Georges Braque, Bernard Boutet de Monval and Charles Martin, among others. Lepape’s style was heavily influenced by oriental art and Russian ballet, not only in his colours but also in the use of curve lines and in composition. One of Lepapes main contribution to fashion illustration was the introduction of the “movement” concept in figurines that he addressed for the first time, he also began creating stories in his illustrations. With this he gave way to a new form of representation that is still used today. He collaborated largely with magazines like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, and fashion houses like Lanvin and Hermes. pAGE 067
IGNACIO LECHUGA
VALPARAÍSO CATWALK 2014 © Copyright MWstudio. All rights reserved.
pAGE 068
In the western world beauty has always been linked to the light, to the shiny and to the color white, and the dark, the matt and the color black has always had a negative connotation. However, in Japan the semi darkness upraises the beauty in many aspects of life like in the construction of homes, ceramics and of course, wardrobe. This exploration that Junichiro Tanizaki makes in his book “The praise of the shadows” (1933) was the inspiration for the Chilean designer Ignacio Lechuga to develop his collection for the “Valparaiso Catwalk”.
pAGE 069
THE MISTERY
AND DISCRETION
OF PIERRE
BALMAIN may 1914 - june 1982
TEXT AND IMAGES: MUSEO DE LA MODA
Recognizable for a strong style that defended the image of an active woman, elegant and casual, Balmain’s proposal pleased enormously the Paris women of the mid 1940’s. If you have to define his work, he was mainly classic styled, focused on the structure of a piece, marked shoulders, underlined bust, narrow and highlighted fabrics (with prints). Along with Dior and Balenciaga, Balmain was part of the top representatives of the renovation of French high couture during de 50´s, known as the New Look generation. Everybody looked to satisfy the need of luxury and beauty of the post-war women (World War II) In common, the three great French designers would characterize for being precise on their manufacturing, great accuracy in the cuts, fabrics and finesse; however, Balmain would stand out for being considered more sober and conservative and even less creative in the beginning, which at the same time helped him to be more massive and accessible. pAGE 070
Sketches Pierre Balmain, Museo de la Moda collection.
pAGE 071
Photo Georges Saad, Museo de la Moda collection.
pAGE 072
Polyester twill coat in ecru, embroidered in black wool with Arabic motives and a felt spike, pearls, crochet passemenerie and cabochon. Small straight velvet silk neck. A tight body, with long sleeves and a wide skirt. Closed in the front with broaches and buttons, crochet knitted with black wool. Entirely lined with ecru satin. Label: “Pierre Balmain” / “Paris, Made in France”.
Silk dress with fantasy ligament patterned in blue with figurative red floral motives. Boat cleavage, long sleeves with folds in the shoulder and tubed in a fist with a button and clip opening. Big shoulder pads, folds in the shoulders. Blouse like torso through an elastic band in the waistline. Mid back latching with blue spherical buttons and strap like clips. An Evasé skirt, long under the knee with a diagonal fly in the center of the skirt. Mid back label in black fabric with knitted inscription in white: Balmain Boutique, Paris. Rectangular belt lined in the fabric of the dress with rectangular belt buckle equally lined.
Pierre Balmain Collection, Museo de la Moda.
Pierre Balmain Collection, Museo de la Moda.
Opening his design house allowed him to impose a style inside the new French style, with elegant pieces, well cut, that underlines the line, and more important still, giving in to the taste of women of the time that would characterize for being dynamic and appreciative of luxury, giving that they had change of status after the war. Fashion during the 50’s dictated the use of two piece suits and wide skirts, although it was also trending the use of single outfits for each moment of the day. For these outfits Balmain would use a lot of strong colors, especially black and white, which for him was a symbol of mystery and discretion. Except for the nights, a time when he liked sophistication, so his dresses would be with a lot of color and sparkle. Balmain´s popularity allowed him a quick entry in the American market, working in the wardrobes of television series such as Dynasty, which helped him to spread his work and receive much more clients in Hollywood, women like Ava Gardner and Audrey Hepburn. To date, the House of Balmain has stand out for maintaining. Although by 2005 it was declining in terms of creativity, with the arrival of Christophe Decarnin it has been recognized as a cult and Rock Chic brand, designed for the sexy and casual woman, so we can find in their designs torn t-shirts, short and tight dresses. Today it has the luxury seal that Balamin didn´t have in the beginning, because owning a Balmain it´s better than owning a Dior. pAGE 073
CHECK THE VIDEO
HERE
pAGE 074
ESPÍNOLA
© Copyright Espínola. All rights reserved.
Espínola is the same name brand as the Chilean designer and architecture student Juan Pablo Espínola, who this year launched his first collection. In it he looks to capture the essence of the city trough simple female silhouettes, but with a very personal and contemporary language. Within the collection, he had the collaboration of the artists Juan Urzúa Farías and María Aparicio Puentes, who captured their vision of architecture, geometry and proportion, all subjects that Juan Pablo loves to use in the creation of some of his garments. Currently his collection is sold on his fanpage and it is being delivered to all of Chile. You can also visit his showroom, with a previous appointment, in Jose Domingo Cañas 460, Ñuñoa. pAGE 075
pAGE 076
pAGE 077
Share us using the hashtag
iFmagazine_
pAGE 079
MEDIA PARTNERS
pAGE 080
SPONSORS
pAGE 081
Issue 2 - May 2015 iF magazine is published by mr william Ltda. 2014-15. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or used without permission of the publisher and their collaborators. All illustrations are protected by copyright of each illustrator.