Wedding Trader - issue 24

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE 24• NOVEMBER/DECEMBER ’20

TIME WELL SPENT HOW OTHERS ARE MAKING CHANGES

Dear MP...

HERE’S THE LETTER EVERY RETAILER SHOULD WRITE

PROU SUPPORDLY TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

Shows of the future WHAT THE ORGANISERS PREDICT FOR 2021

BUSINESS PLANNING

THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD FOCUS ON

ALLUREBRIDALS.COM

ENZOANI.COM

WH AT ’ S W HE RE 08 SHOWS OF TH E FU T U R E Will things go back to the way they were?

46 R ES IL IE NT...

Retailers share their thoughts going forward

12 BA RCE LONA Exclusive: Where it goes from here

52 T HE B R IDAL CO LLECT I V E A new chapter for Enzoani

22 T I ME TO SAY GOOD BY E ?

Sue Lovell thinks things out

56

26 L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA A sense of cautious optimism sets in

58 TAL KING TO M O O S H K I Think short for the long-term

28 EL L IE’S P LACE Here’s what to do right now

60

32 DEA R MP...’

Alison Hargreaves creates the template

66

34 TO TH E NEW LY E NGAGE D Shannon Hurd of Vows addresses the brides

71 L AU RA’ S T HO U G H T S The ‘F’ word – that’s F for furlough

36 I DID IT TH IS WAY Sabina shares her sepcial experience

72

40

B RID ESTALK All the when’s and where’s

74

42 MYRNA ON INSTAGRAM Making the most of this vital platform

96

J E NNY PAC KHA M A new collection... a new book

S E E ING R E D We check out what’s hot LO C KDOWN W I T H V E N I Making the most of new opportunities

TECHNO Understanding Artificial Intelligence FINANC E Preparing for BREXIT s AND FINAL LY Your views, your news

ALLURE BRIDALS

44 A N OTH E R WAY We look at the Dress Tribe operation

HOUSE OF MOOSHKI

contents

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 5

Atelier E LY S E E B R I D A L . C O M

CO NTACT US Editor Susi Rogol

Ed’s Letter

susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Menswear Editor

It’s been a nail-biting, teeth-gritting few months; the added restrictions have put more pressure on us all, and of course, our businesses, but if tough lines ease the spikes that have been felt everwhere, and the longawaited, much talked-about vaccine proves to be a solution, then we are closer to emerging into a new world and being able to look back on what we actually achieved in 2020, rather than the failings that were unavoidable.

The response to our last issue was amazing and proof that commentary and an opportunity to share and exchange thoughts is exactly what’s needed right now when the future is undecided and the many parts of the industry that make up the whole need real support.

We’re thinking now that we’ll continue to build on the platform we have created for discussion, gathering information and detail from retailers, suppliers, event organisers, wedding planners and specialist essential services, including photographers, florists and stylists. We’re all involved in the world of bridal and we know we are stronger together, offering a shoulder to cry on when needed, and an applause when there’s something special to celebrate.

The next few months will be difficult – not just for our industry, but across the world and in every sector of life. But we are better prepared now, having shown our resilience and resoucefulness throughout 2020, to deal with the the next chapter ahead of us.

We’ll be happy to say goodbye to 2020 – no question about that – and are ready to approach WEDDING 2021 with grit... and the unfailing enthusiasm that our industry is known for. Let’s share a glass of bubbly – virtually of course – and toast – not just TIME WELL SPENT HOW OTHERS a better future, but ARE MAKING CHANGES each other. I am Dear MP...

HERE’S THE LETTER incredibly proud of EVERY RETAILER SHOULD WRITE being part of the PROU bridal story for close SUPPORDLY TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW to two decades.

RETA EAR

Dominic Bliss dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

ISSUE 24• NOVEMBER/DECEMBER ’20

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

ILERS

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND TEAM TALK

Shows of the future WHAT THE ORGANISERS PREDICT FOR 2021

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “Hearing how retailers have got in tune with the very different buying habits of 2020, shows we will not be beaten.” (p46)

THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD FOCUS ON

Cover image: It doesn’t get better than this! Gown by Morilee WT24_Cover JP.indd 1

Andy Allen Art Director “Read Alison Hargreaves’ suggested letter to MPs. This is a way to get heard as an industry. We should all do it.” (p32)

MEANT TO BE MEDIA

BUSINESS PLANNING

15/11/2020 16:34

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 7 Derbyshire Road, Manchester M40 1QN. Tel: 0161 681 1771 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com

Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: F IND YOUR

LOV E OUR

DREAM DRESS

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7

THEY WAY WE WERE The days of Harrogate, above, and Barcelona, right, as they once were

SHOW BUSINESS

2021

What is going to happen to our fabulous trade shows in 2021?

Jill Eckersley talks to organisers about the future of bridal events

A

lthough some dates have already been set for 2021 – London Bridal Fashion Week and White Gallery at ExCel London 18-20 April, and the HarrogateBrdal Show at HCC for 12-14 September, both exhibitors and visitors would have to be real optimists to see those dates as set in stone.

With restrictions on all kinds of face-to-face meetings being imposed, and then lifted, and then imposed again, venues allegedly

being made ‘covid-safe’, it’s no wonder that bridal is facing waves of uncertainty as 2021 beckons.

As one event organiser we spoke to said:c“As much as we want to do shows for our clients, everything is so uncertain right now. We are in the planning stage with different options – floor plans, social distancing – but it all depends on how far we have come through with Covid infections, vaccines and ability to travel in 2021.”

Of course bridal is not the only industry which is in this position.

Trade shows are an important part

8 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020

of many others and the country’s biggest events venues are doing all they can to keep pace with developments.

The AEV (Association of Events Venues) has issued guidelines and produced a framework of support and assessments to ensure a safe return to live events when that is possible. Major venues like London’s ExCel and Olympia, and the NEC in Birmingham, have postponed events until 2021 or 2022, waiting to finalise plans according to the latest Government guidelines.

There have been suggestions that trade shows, as we have always known them, could be a thing of the past and that they could be replaced by virtual events.

With some companies, this is already happening, and with a great deal of positive response. The US business website Forbes reminded us that the global spread of Covid-19 brought trade shows and exhibitions to a screeching halt in early 2020.

“The days of crowded trade show floors are SO 2019,” they said, “but the industry is adapting to virtual events.”

Some major players in the world of fashion are already using technology and virtual reality to continue to reach their target audiences.

Shanghai Fashion Week held its first totally digital event back in April. London Fashion Week held a virtual showcase in June with – according to The Guardian – “No

catwalks, no cocktail parties and definitely no air-kissing!”

Some commentators have even questioned whether the fashion world even wants to go back to the way things were. There are climate-change and carbonfootprint implications involved when businesspeople travel thousands of miles to attend a prestigious event, in addition to the impact on company budgets. So could traditional bridal trade shows ever be permanently replaced by their digital counterparts?

Not according to Wendy Adams, director of The Harrogate Bridal Show, which has been established for 35 years now.

“It was very upsetting that we had to cancel both London and Harrogate for 2020, although of course all our exhibitors were refunded their money in full,” she says. “In 2019 we had 300 brands and 4,900 visitors to London Bridal

Week and 330 brands and 5,200 visitors to Harrogate. We haven’t done a virtual show in 2020 as we don’t see an appetite from either our clients or our visitors at the moment.

“We truly believe that traditional trade shows will continue. We have already had video meetings with many retailers and found that they don’t want an alternative. They enjoy attending the shows, meeting faceto-face with their suppliers, meeting other shop owners, learning from our educational programme, and watching the live catwalk shows.

“Most importantly, they like to see the dresses, feel the fabrics, and check the quality. Every retailer we have contacted has said that they can’t wait for the shows to come back, and that seeing all their brands in one venue makes a show easy, simple and, above all, enjoyable.”

From the perspective of New York-based house Justin Alexander, Marketing Director Jennifer Wu

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2020 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9

digital transformation of the show has been an exciting challenge for us, as it involves a readjustment of how to connect the different parts of the industry with one another.

“The concept of a global platform to publicise bridal fashion brands has not changed, but the communication channel has. Moreover, it enables us to reach an even larger audience and open up to bridesto-be so that they can enjoy seeing all the latest trends, too.”

President of the show Jesus Diez pointed out that the digital event provided a boost for the whole industry: “Thanks to technology, the dissemination of images from the VBBFW collections has never CEO of Viktor & Rolf; and Savannah been so wide, nor has the public Miller. We were delighted to team up with VOW in time for International been so heterogeneous. This has provided us with the visibility we Day of the Girl which coincided needed in terms of buyers and with the October bridal week. We prospective brides from all around are keen to continue to offer virtual the world so as to reactivate the options, and to explore different industry and generate new business event and charity components.” opportunities.”

By contrast, Valmont Barcelona As this issue of Wedding Trader Bridal Fashion Week 2020 was went to print, the country was an innovative, all-digital event, informed that one of the new anti18-22 September, with almost covid vaccines in development had one hundred firms, 64% of them been successfully trialled in more international, participating. than 40,000 volunteers. With the The VBBFW App was a digital NHS planning to use it in late 2020 or platform designed to allow bridesearly 2021, Wendy Adams, director to-be and fashionistas all over the of Bridal Harrogate, said that she world to view the latest collections, was hoping that this could make a as well as linking companies and real difference. Watch this space! professionals in the bridal industry on a global level. For a month from 18 September, nearly 16,000 users – It was announced just a few days more than half of them from abroad ago that Pure London and Scoop February 2021 events have been – connected to the digital platform. cancelled so expect a big focus on The event’s Director, Estermaria the virtual forum, Fashion Together.

Laruccia, said at the time: “The

10 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

ISABEL SANCHEZ

makes a similar point, although the company has hosted several extremely successful virtual events over the year as well.

“Many of us miss the personal interaction you get at a traditional trade show,” she says, “and there are benefits in being able to feel and touch the dresses.

“On the other hand, having no trade shows in 2020 can spur creativity and innovation in showcasing product, as we have experienced ourselves this year.

“In the Spring, we held virtual trunk shows, which were widely successful in showing our collections in an unprecedented way to brides, stores and Press alike. For New York Bridal Fashion Week in October, we virtually presented the new collection from Justin Alexander Signature in the same way to our retailers and brides worldwide.

“Additionally, on the same day, we showcased the whole of our luxury group to include the latest collections from Viktor & Rolf and Savannah Miller.

“For 2021 we are going to be participating in regional popups with limited numbers, and additionally meeting with our retailers for individual appointments in our showrooms. We also anticipate that our major marketing events will again be virtual.

“As far as promotion is concerned, before the NYBFW show presentations, we hosted an industry round-table on Zoom with our partners and press friends to benefit VOW, a non-profit organisation which works to end child marriage.

Prominent VOW Ambassador, Princess Mabel van Oranje from The Netherlands spoke, as did the leaders behind our luxury brands – Justin Warshaw; Andrea Collesei,

www.morilee.co.uk

BROOKE

P E TA H U NT C H EC KS IN… I

1 BLING ME UP SCOTTY… Beading and tulle the key bridal elements for me for the ultimate in luxurious glamour; this look works perfectly for the hotel wedding or an evening, black- tie wedding with a hint of vintage. I particularly liked the back details on the House of Saint Patrick dresses. Very Audrey Hepburn, or VAH as we are now saying!

12 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

The intrepid bridal fashionista uncovers the latest trends from Valmont Barcelona Bridal Week – having been there and seen it all... digitally of course

HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

n this ever changing world I had my fingers crossed that we would be going to Barcelona for my favourite of fashion weeks due to the brilliant organising (a big shout out to Eva from the Press office who deserves the praise for putting up with us international Press, year after year) so I was really sad it was not to be this year.

The annual spectacular is the best place for inspiration, picking up on trends, directions, and meeting designers and your counterparts, but while Covid-19 brought a halt to the 2020 event, VBBFW anticipated the possibility of cancellation early and cleverly pre shot an amazing collection of shows, then scheduled them as normal, making sure visitors and the media could see the videos and get pictures as if we were actually there.

Is this the way forward? It was great to see the collections that will lead the way; but sad that one wasn’t dressed up sitting on one of those lovely chairs in the front row; in the new norm, I was in my track suit commenting to the dog. But I saw it all… wrote my notes, and give you now my top ten trends for next season:

VESTAL

YOLAN CRIS

THE ATELIER

HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

2 THINK LARGE I have always had a soft spot for a big dress and I think once the return to normal (whenever that maybe) we are going to a see a rise in the big wedding with big dresses taking centre stage. Some of the best were from The Atelier (Jimmy Choo used his gift of elegance, style and bling working with the designers on this collection).

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 13

DEMETRIOS

NICOLE

AVENIR 35 LIGHT

14 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

MARCO & MARIA

3 COLOUR ME It was lovely to see colours as well as the usual white and cream. I’ve always been a huge fan of Marco y Maria and their brilliant subtle use of colour. However, this time round there was plenty of red (looking to Far East markets?) and even black dresses for the second-time-round

PRONOVIAS MARYLISE

WE DO ECO

FLORA

4 ONE DAY I’LL FLY AWAY This section I’ve mentally called elopement purely because I think that as soon as people can get away they will! This is no ladders against walls stuff but rather how to describe a small country wedding, a garden party, or a beach wedding with just a group of friends and family. I thought that the Wedoecocollection had lots of interesting dresses suited to elopement weddings and of course, The Pronovias group is trying to making giant leaps forward in producing dresses that will be kinder to the planet

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 15

FLORA

YUMI KATSURA

YOLAN CRIS

16 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

5 NO MISS HAVISHAM HERE Lace is the go-to fabric for most brides, and this year there are many shapes and styles using lace in a nontraditional way. Remember, I always look for dresses to shoot and one’s with a point of difference – not always the most commercial, I’ll admit to that. I particularly liked Flora’s two-piece skirt and top, I thought it was perfect for the modern bride (admittedly if she’s got a very toned tummy – if mine was like that I’d show it off too!).

HIGAR NOVIAS

YOLAN CRIS

JESUS PEIRO

6 THE WAY FORWARD Micro weddings are the new norm (this month anyway) and this to me is a huge sector. In the past I would have suggested what to wear for a city wedding, or talked about the old heady days of the second dress in the evening (farewell to that now), but the micro wedding is here and although it may be a small, it’s going to allow the bride plenty of scope to wear whatever she wants to let her personality to shine. I particularly love the ‘50’s meets My Fair Lady’ look of Yolan Cris.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 17

VESTAL

ISABEL SANCHIS

YOLAN CRIS

7 WHO’S GOING SHORT? Short is going to work for the stylish bride who is more fashion forward; she wants to make a statement on the registry office steps – the perfect way to show off those fabulous shoes – and doesn’t want to look to old school bridal. We’re in a new era for small weddings and I think short hemlines are on the cards. My personal favourite was the Sophie et Viola dress with a huge bow and small tulle skirt. Legs out!

18 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

PRONOVIAS

VESTAL

LEONIE

8 TO SLEEVE OR NOT TO SLEEVE? Sleeves… without question, a really big trend for the season. This sounds slightly ridiculous, I know but sleeves are really setting the style of the dress, whether they’re actually attached or not.

I love a short puffy one, but long bell sleeves were out in force, turning simple dresses into a boho brides dream. I also loved the skin-tight, no flesh on show, modest sleeve. There were plenty of balloon unattached sleeves, perfect for the bride who needs to cover up during the service but goes bare armed during the evening party, (thus the two-looks-one-dress box is ticked) My favourite of the sleeves has to be from Leonie from Israel, a new collection to me. I loved the light touch of these dresses and the completely off-the-shoulder sleeves, with bows which were beautiful and feminine.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 19

VALENTINI

CYMBELINE VESTAL

20 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

9. GET ME TO THE CHURCH Traditional yay! I do love a bit of an homage to Grace Kelly and of course our much loved Kate, and there were plenty of beautiful dresses around that still would satisfy the most traditional bride. Pronovias was my favourite in this section – beautiful long lace sleeves and a scoop neck, topped off with a statement veil.

10 WHO WEARS THE PANTS? Trouser suits are becoming main stream and acceptable – no longer will the bride’s great aunt keel over at the sight of her niece in trousers (in fact, one of the good things about the current situation is that as numbers are limited, you can be much more selective about who gets an invitation!). Most designers and manufacturers are producing cool jumpsuits and trouser suits – I loved this easy-to-wear one from Marylise, another favourite company of mine who have been working so hard to produce eco-friendly bridalwear. The joy of this trouser suit is that you could certainly wear it afterwards so although it’s white it’s green too!

YOLAN CRIS

MARYLISE

OLGA MACIA

Oh FYI, The dog enjoyed the shows too!

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 21

When It Is Time To Move On Sue Lovell takes a long, hard look at the realities many businesses are forced to face as a result of the global pandemic, which has changed, irrevocably, the way we were

22 ♌ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♌ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

W

e have all been there, running bare foot in the rain after someone who just didn’t want to be in the relationship any longer. Promising you will change, that you will do things differently, may buy you some time, but often it just prolongs the heartache and delays the inevitable.

Surprisingly, begging someone not to leave you at 2am, in the street, in the puddles, in the dark, rarely changes anything, nor will it feature in your top ten finest moments. But perhaps when you look back, it will feature in your top 10 life-changing events – ones that seemed unbearable at the time, but you later learned to value the experience, as it put you on the right path. Regardless of how you remember the break-up, one thing is for sure… you got over it.

A failed relationship doesn’t make

you a failure, it is just an acceptance that two people want different things.

No one is ever wrong for wanting something different, but how we go about getting it, or the timing of when we share that information – that may be the questionable part.

Ultimately, a sad situation will not define you, it is how you deal with it that will. We are more than who we once loved, and where we work. We are much bigger than that. I believe that what defines us is our strength to find a way through a tough situation, not to just lie there, in the rain, sobbing about things you can’t change, but to get up, get dry and move on.

Sadly, in these testing times, many small business owners will be facing the equivalent of a break-up. Maybe the decision is yours to make: fight or flight, borrow a bit, invest in more marketing, try a different angle, or look

at other opportunities. Or perhaps the decision has been made for you and is out of your hands so that you just need to take the next steps.

Across the UK, many people will be going to bed tonight dreading waking up tomorrow. Their sleepless night will be filled with worries and woes that are too painful to share and too personal to vocalise to others.

The knowledge that the business they fought hard to start, have heavily invested in – both in terms of emotional and financial commitments – the project that was fuelled with passion, excellence and pride is suddenly faltering.

Admitting that the business you love, which you identify with, is no longer working for you, but is draining you and sucking at your soul is a tough conversation to have with yourself. But it is a good place to start.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 23

Be honest with yourself. It is harder than it sounds, getting to that genuine moment of truth, but once there, the healing and the progress to the next chapter of your life starts. You may identify with your business, but it isn’t the sum of you: you are so much more.

The dynamics and the circumstances have changed for everyone this year – and it really isn’t a case of “it’s not you, it’s me” – the blame 100% can be put at the door of Covid; the circumstances the virus has created, are beyond our control. What matters now is not how loudly we scream at how unfair it all is – we are allowed those moments of grief – but that doesn’t get you off the road and out of the rain.

No one wakes up on Monday morning and realises that today is the day they go out of business. It doesn’t come out of the blue; the signs have been there for a while, bubbling in the background. You’ve ignored it, or made fantastic plans to avoid it, to turn things around. Fingers are crossed, prayers are said and positivity mantras are recited, but if all efforts have failed in finding a positive, solvent outcome, then the decision has to be made. This is no longer working for you, and you deserve more. So now what?

Think about it: is this a rough patch?

Can you survive it and do you want to, or do you want to wake up tomorrow and this to all be over? You know deep in yourself what the answer is… follow your instinct. A business is a life choice, not a life sentence, and certainly not one that takes us to the brink.

If you know you need to start preparing for closure, then start now, don’t leave it until it is out of your hands. The more control you have over how you exit the business, the better place you will find yourself when it is all over.

Just because you start putting plans in place, doesn’t mean it is inevitable, you are allowed to change course if the situation improves.

The important thing is that you have a strategy, so you can be in a position of clarity when the final decision is made.

1 Get financial advice Speak to your accountant to get an overall, independent view. Can you close without any debt, or should you employ an insolvency practitioner?

Can you get the funds to start the insolvency process? Realistically, can you trade out of it in time?

2 Speak to your landlord if you have one. Do you have a break clause?

Can you assign the lease? If you own the building, can you sell it, or would finding a tenant bring you in enough income to cover the costs?

3 Speak to your suppliers Let them know you won’t be buying a new sample collection for the moment; there is no point in placing big orders when you know you can’t honour them. Let them know your priority is honouring customer orders first and foremost, and that your intention is to manage your ongoing commitments to them honourably and to relook at the situation at a later date.

4 Look at your forward order book Your focus should be on getting in dresses to fulfil your orders. Your supplier may not be keen to help you with individual orders, but there are plenty of other people who know that the integrity of the bridal industry depends on brides not being let down. Don’t be afraid to reach out to others in the industry who you can trust. You already know who they are. At a time when wedding insurance is not a given, and brides have already suffered enough turmoil, getting their gown to them before possible closure should be a priority. It isn’t always possible, but often there will be a way, if you ask the right people.

A bad closure has far reaching consequences for the entire industry; a managed, controlled one affords some level of trust and integrity for everyone.

5 Sell from stock Stop taking in orders until you are 100% sure you will continue. If you have staff, let them know you are wanting to liquidate stock. Always take credit card payment, never take cash if you know you may not fulfil the order.

24 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

6 Do not take in deposits when you know you cannot honour the agreement, especially cash or bank transfers. There is a fine line between trying to turn things around and deceit.

7 Are you able to find a buyer for your business? Be realistic with your valuation. A business in trouble is not an attractive proposition, but it may be an option for someone to take over the lease, purchase your stock at a sensible price, freeing you of your ongoing commitments, whilst giving them an established platform to start from and build on.

8 Be kind to yourself Mental health issues are very much at the forefront during this pandemic. None of us know what others are facing.

Closing a business can have a huge impact on our wellbeing; personal attacks and a rush to judgement doesn’t help anyone. Business is just that: a series of transactions and paperwork. Any business venture has the opportunity to rise and to fall, but remember whilst any company can fold, people just bend.

We do get up again.

The economic impact Covid-19 has had on the UK cannot be underestimated, and there is no doubt that times may get tougher. But the important thing is to remain positive, and even in the face of a closure, walking away from what you know as a great love in your life, doesn’t have to be a negative.

I have called a number of people recently who have closed their bridal businesses in the past 18 months. Some employed insolvency practitioners and found that to be a quicker, cleaner break; some closed their shop, but behind the scenes fulfilled outstanding orders, sourcing dresses with the help of industry friends, and paid off outstanding debts with personal finances. It may have taken time, but they did it. Regardless of how they closed, they moved on, taking the happier memories with them, and leaving the negative ones out in the rain, where they belong.

BADGLEYMISCHKA.COM

Letter from America Given that so many of the big-name designers that British brides love hail from across the pond, Peter Grimes’ report on the US market and retailer trends makes for a impactful reading FIRST THE GOOD NEWS: US bridesto-be are returning to boutiques… and depending on their location are generally: ◗ grateful and accepting of health and sanitation requirements ◗ purchasing samples or off-the-rack gowns for close wear dates ◗ not shying away from better-priced goods ◗ appreciative of the highly personalised experience they expect and receive in a locally owned, independent bridal salon.

In general, many of the policies boutiques put in place to adhere to pandemic health and social distancing requirements appear to be permanent… or at least long term regardless of a return to pre-Covid-19 ‘normal’, including appointment-only with very little accommodation for walk-ins; bride plus three to four; fees for premium time slot appointments; upgraded Exclusive Experience appointments; prequalifying the bride prior to an appointment, and a more

26 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

personalised approach to all client contact.

According to a recent VOWS survey in the US, 62% of responding boutiques indicated that walk-ins represent less than 10% of their current store traffic… which is not surprising as they encourage appointments over walk-ins in order to guarantee a bride-to-be a dressing room.

Essentially, brides of today still want that ‘moment’ in which they find their perfect gown, regardless of what may be happening (or not happening) with their event location, number of guests or size of bridal party… which is helping boutiques feel cautiously optimism about the future.

Part of this optimism is the result of brands and designers responding to the needs of their accounts by dropping minimums, providing no or low-cost quick deliveries, releasing smaller collections, and coordinating

•

has to focus on more than the success of the business. It must also adopt a ‘servant leadership’ mentality in which the main goal of the philosophy is to serve, to place the needs of employees first and to help staff THE NOT-SO-GOOD NEWS: The high develop and perform at higher levels.

Servant leadership is not a new close rates during initial reopening concept, as it was originally coined in and summer months appear to have plateaued as a noticeable percentage 1970 by author and consultant Robert of brides-to-be revert to pre-Covid-19 K. Greenleaf in his essay The Servant as Leader. It is in my mind the right shopping behaviors including time and circumstances to give this shopping multiple stores, requests approach its due. for larger bridal parties, no-show An excellent description of the appointments, and a slight increase key elements of servant leadership in walk ins, all amid high levels of can be found in The Case for Servant indecision.

Leadership, written last year by Rose One often-voiced complaint: O. Sherman for Nurse Leader Journal: “we’re back to brides who, near the end of their in-store appointment, 1 Listening: the servant leader call another salon to set up an actively listens to the needs of staff appointment.” and helps to support them in their Additionally, this return to decision-making. an indecisive shopping bride is 2 Empathy: seeks first to understand adding another level of stress on the needs of others and empathize stylists striving to service, sell and with them. accommodate their clients in difficult circumstances, and often under their 3 Healing: helps staff to resolve their problems, negotiate their conflicts, own pressures and concerns for their and encourage the formation of a health and future. Which now, rather healing environment. belatedly, brings me to my main point: 4 Awareness: has a high degree of emotional intelligence and Looking ahead self-awareness. He or she views Though the storm appears to be situations from a holistic, systems clearing, there are still rough seas perspective. ahead. Frankly our leadership skills 5 Persuasion: does not use coercive will continue to be put to the test. To power to influence or persuade survive, and succeed, our best efforts but instead uses their powers of will have to be even better. persuasion.

Employees in a full range of 6 Conceptualisation: sees beyond businesses are reporting increased the day-to-day operations of their stresses of added workloads and unit or department. They can focus uncertainty about the future, often on the bigger picture and build a accentuated by supervisors and personal vision. bosses overwhelmed by the same 7 Foresight: can envision the likely stresses. outcome of a situation and is According to recent workplace proactive in attempts to create the surveys, female employees are best consequences. reporting the highest levels of stress 8 Stewardship: is a good steward of with 30%+ feeling burned out, and the resources and staff that they 40%+ feeling exhausted. are given. They feel an obligation In these particular days, and for to help and serve others without this woman-dominated industry, our focusing on their own rewards. leadership approach and philosophy regional pop-up events to connect with accounts and to showcase gowns.

And a significant factor: the end of the US election season.

9 Commitment to the growth of people: is inclusive of all staff and sees value in everyone. They attempt to maximize the strengths of all who work with them.

10 Building community: recognises the importance of building a sense of community among staff.

In reviewing these elements, it’s apparent to me that this is also an excellent description of the everyday approach for which many of you are known.

But if you are stressed, unsure of the effectiveness of this philosophy, battered by the storm, consider this conclusion offered by McKinsey and Company in its recent report on empowering employees: “In many ways, there is only one question any manager need ask: How do I make my team members’ lives easier – physically, cognitively, and emotionally? Research shows that this ‘servant leader’ mentality and disposition enhances both team performance and satisfaction.

Moreover, studies also suggest that managers themselves are happier and find their roles more meaningful when they feel they are helping other people.”

And this… according to new research from Emlyon Business School, Paris, France, servant leadership not only improves morale, it also increases company profits.

So good news, and not-so-good news. But cautious optimism as we all navigate through these troubling seas. And at the risk of over-extending this sailing metaphor, please allow a concluding and appropriate story courtesy of an old merchant marine buddy: “Piloting a freighter over long distances, once the heading is set and the voyage undertaken, requires making small and continuous adjustments to counter the effects of current, winds and tides.”

Doing so insured the ship reached its destination.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 27

H ERE COM ES

20 21

Five things you can do Ellie Sanderson says that we need to prepare for the busiest year of our lives.

The question is... are YOU ready for the future?

1 Your 2021 business goals The most strategic executives are highly skilled at setting goals and we need to do the same with our businesses. Large or small we ALL have to set goals.

We need goals for the short term and goals for the longer term. We need these to give our teams and us something to aim for.

Make sure that all your activities are working towards the right end goal.

Set your goals by deciding what you want to achieve with your business in 2021. Then decide how you will achieve them.

Decide when you will achieve them and set check in dates, half way points. I always have a maximum of five goals every single year and have done since day one.

Don’t forget goals can be big or small. t is time. Time to stop licking You also need to make sure you our wounds over 2020 and time have a plan to accomplish your goals, to get ready for the future. Let and as obvious as it sounds you need go of the past because 2021 is coming soon. Things shifted this to make sure everyone who works for week when a vaccine was announced you understands the goals and the plan to achieve them. for Covid-19 and please God they Check that your everyday activities continue to shift in the same direction.

These are the top five things – in no are helping you to accomplish your particular order – that you should get short-term goals. Also, don’t be afraid to make adjustments as needed. on to now: Things change (Don’t we know that 1. Write your 2021 business goals after this year!) and so your goals can 2 Invest in yourself and your team and may need to be adjusted, too.

3 Nurture relations with suppliers When I coach businesses I always 4 Review your marketing activity say: “If you keep doing what you are 5 Are you data savvy? doing, you will keep getting what you are getting”.

Let’s take these one at a time, and I also say: “Don’t beat yourself up go into them in detail...

I

28 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

if you don’t have goals” – 90% of the shops I coach don’t. But I promise that once you write them down it makes running your business so much easier and more focused. It makes it easier to say: “That’s not a priority for me” and to focus on what is.

2 Invest in yourself and your team Brush up on your skills, learn new skills, and register for courses or webinars. There is so much online support for learning it’s incredible.

If you haven’t spent any time during lockdown doing any courses NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT. Every single one of us can learn more things. I am a total webinar junkie and recently enrolled in a heavy duty London Business School course, too. Virtual courses are great for brushing up on skills you have or learning new ones. Make sure your business is soaring ahead of your competitors in the race to smash 2021.

3 Nurture relationships with suppliers When you think back on the past few months, it may seem like a blur of closed, open, and closed with brides being undecided and generally apathetic as the world free falls.

During this madness our suppliers have been busy making dresses not knowing if we can afford to buy them or even if brides will buy them from us.

Don’t forget these guys have to buy fabric in advance to ensure we have stock when we need it. They need to place forward orders based on what?

2021 Now is the time to get your ducks in line.

Re-visit your Return on Investment by supplier and make sure you stick with the ones who are the winners.

I have gone from six labels to four.

Why? Because I want to make sure that my suppliers get the minimum levels of orders for samples. Those labels that don’t return, no matter how pretty they are may have to go.

Now is the time for us to make solid commercial decisions. Those that have spent their bounce back loan on new labels may live to regret that hasty decision as styles and weddings are still changing for 2021 and stock may be left unwanted and not returning if it’s not on trend.

Nurture your supplier relationships, you need them more than ever and they need you more than ever right now! Check in with your suppliers to say hello and join up to work together. I am beyond blessed to work with some brilliant labels like Suzanne Neville, Sassi Holford and Jesus Peiro. All of them have my back and I hope they feel the same about me. Use this time to catch-up, reconnect, and nurture the relationships that help you stay grounded, inspired and motivated.

4 Rethink how to use your marketing dollars Hate that phrase but it’s so very true especially with all the Algorithm changes on Facebook and Instagram.

you can plan are huge.

Be it getting your social media marketing strategy in place or investing in a solid CRM that engages with your clients, make sure you are on it.

Don’t discount radio or online magazines as more and more our brides are getting their fix from different platforms.

They still love a blog especially if it’s well written with exciting content.

Panic not if you don’t have time to do this or the will/inclination – there are so many great ghost writers available for manageable fees.

Is your marketing plan able to handle the post-pandemic world?

AI (Artificial Intelligence) I have mentioned this before and we are about to start some trials on our website next year with this, to ensure we have intelligent information about our brides BEFORE their appointment.

I have the wish list option on my site like most people but brides are too lazy to use it well and so AI will be a far better way to map them around my website.

All this brilliant data will help you market your product to the right people. Make friends with a data scientist!

I sound like I have already closed the doors on 2020 and in many ways I think I have. I am done talking about it and I am so very ready for 2021.

I hope these five sharers are useful to make you think about 2021.

5 Are you using your data right?

We were all sent running to the hills scared with GDPR compliance but Happy to chat if you want to via email. over a year on we are, I am sure, allcompliant. I have found so many small es@elliesanderson.co.uk businesses that are terrified to use their data but to get ahead for 2021 we must get a plan together to reconnect (within the guidelines).

General data Then there is Google business data, this is incredible with all the data it holds for your business. It’s not just for reviews and pictures, the content insights are immense and the actions

Ellie x

Ellie Sanderson

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 29

WILDERLYBRIDE.COM

W RI T E TO YO UR M P During lockdown Alison Hargreaves and her team at Guides For Brides developed TrustedTrace and WeddingSafe to help wedding venues and businesses reopen safely. We asked her to draft a letter that retailers could – and should – send to their MPs Dear... (it’s important to have the correct name here and to show your name, shop name, address and signature in the sign off)

I am writing to you as one of the many retailers working in an industry in limbo, paralysed by the repeated blows that hit us every time regulations change and couples lose even more confidence in their wedding plans.

We worked hard to adapt our boutiques, our appointment times and our protocols to be able to open for brides over the summer. We bought PPE and fabric cleaning equipment, we invested in appointment booking software and video streaming. We compromised our customer experience by turning away bridesmaids and additional family members. We stopped serving fizz and no longer hugged brides when they found ‘the dress’.

During the times of most uncertainty, while others simply closed their shop doors, we were there for our brides. We reassured them when they felt their wedding would never happen; we re-measured them when they changed size; we’ve reimbursed some who were forced to cancel and we have reiterated to others that deposits are safe despite having no idea how our business can survive.

We have battled with supply chains and the challenges of working with manufacturers in China and fabric mills in Italy. We’ve had bridal gowns caught up in transit and by customs.

The challenges of working across borders after Brexit haven’t yet begun. We have done all we can to support British designers and manufacturers but all our 2020 trade shows were cancelled and choosing designers and new lines has been compromised.

The nature of our business has made it hard to access financial support. We needed to be there to reassure our postponed and panicking brides during the first lockdown, then adjust our boutiques and systems for reopening, so we couldn’t furlough our staff.

The nature of our business means income fluctuates throughout the year; so many bridal retailers pay their managing directors in dividends. Those company directors who have worked so hard building their businesses are excluded from financial support. Bridal retailers have struggled to access CBILS loans as they are being penalised for the credit history of others.

Meanwhile, we are covering the costs of holding, storing and insuring increasing amounts of stock for brides unable or unwilling to pay their final balances and collect dresses ordered nearly a year ago.

Bridal boutiques employ skilled assistants who have learnt over many years how to choose the dress that perfectly reflects a bride’s personality and style. They know how to

32 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

negotiate with overbearing mums and bridesmaids. They give every bride the ability to walk down the aisle with confidence. We cannot lose those skills from our industry.

Bridal retailers throughout the country provide one of the most magical moments in any bride’s wedding journey, making their childhood dreams feel like a reality. This is a moment that will be lost forever if bridal retailers are forced to close and move online.

We need the certainty that weddings can take place so brides have the confidence to continue with their plans.

We need the certainty that there is a road map to allow for larger weddings next year so that new couples will start to plan.

We need exhibitions to be allowed so we can choose our stock and wedding fairs to be allowed so we can sell our stock.

Until that is possible, we need the financial support that will allow our business to survive.

The current situation for weddings is this: The Challenges • Few couples are prepared to go ahead with weddings for such small numbers.

• There have been calls from wedding venues to be allowed to operate under the same guidelines as pubs and restaurants, with numbers limited by venue capacity.

However, the Business Minister, Paul Skully, has indicated that weddings pose a significant risk of infection, due to theprolonged time that guests spend together and the likelihood of social distancing not being maintained.

• Meanwhile, repeated postponements, cancellations and refund requests are putting financial pressure on venues and suppliers who have received very little financial support from government schemes. Couples are concerned that their deposits aren’t safe, leading to more cancellations.

• Insurance companies have failed to settle claims for cancelled weddings. Couples wanting to plan during uncertain times are unable to get insurance.

• Until larger weddings are permitted and consumer confidence can be addressed, very few couples are prepared to start planning.

The Solutions • The industry has been asking for a task force. This would allow for clear communication between the venues and businesses that have the solutions for Covid-secure weddings, and the government.

• Wedding venues are committed to finding ways of opening safely with larger numbers, in a way that would involve all suppliers, but need the opportunity to demonstrate that ability.

• Weddings have been recognised as events where all those involved would be committed to rapid testing and contact tracing. These could form the basis for other sectors of the events industry.

• Pilot events over the winter would give couples the confidence that there is progression towards larger numbers in the spring.

• Although there is a clear need for financial support across the industry, a government backed deposit protection scheme, similar to the Film and TV Production Restart Scheme, would give couples and retailers the confidence to plan for the future.

Alison Hargreaves has worked in the wedding industry since 1991. Her experience includes owning a bridal boutique, a wedding cake studio and several high profile wedding media platforms.

She is the founder and Managing Director of guidesforbrides.co.uk, prideguide.co.uk and beyondweddings.com

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 33

TO THE NEWLY EN GAGED...

We asked Shannon Hurd to draft a letter that expresses the message retailers can and should send out to their brides-to-be

Dear Brides to Be: Congratulations on your engagement! This is such an incredibly special time in your life filled with love, family bonding and precious memories! We are thrilled for you and wish you a lifetime of happiness to come!

Under any circumstances, planning a wedding can be stressful. This year, with the addition of the Covid-19 pandemic to contend with, there are unique challenges and considerations to bear. I want to reassure you that, amidst all the turmoil, there is one stable element you can always count on: Your local bridal boutique.

Independent boutiques are family owned and operated by people with deep ties and great love for their communities. These owners put their heart and soul into their businesses, aiming to bring you high-quality merchandise, extensive expertise and friendly, personalised service throughout the entire dress shopping process, from initial contact to the day you say “I Do” (and often beyond, as lifelong friendships are frequently made!)

Independent boutique owners and their stylists are experts in bridal, often with decades or more of experience. They eat, sleep and breathe this industry, working overtime to stay abreast of current trends, styles that best flatter each body type, timeline requirements, manufacturer/designer specifics and much more.

They carry extensive, reputable product lines and are skilled at helping you find the perfect dress, styling brides and bridal parties, and bringing your wedding vision to life. They have relationships with expert alterationists who perfect each dress for your exact figure, and they meticulously follow the entire process from dress order to receipt to ensure your gown arrives on time and in perfect condition.

In the rare instance a problem does arise they will fix it for you, made easier by the fact they have long-standing relationships with multiple manufacturers and designers, as well as other wedding professionals and businesses.

Their boutiques are created to give you the very best shopping experience. The décor and ambiance, the welcome gifts, the amazing selection, the luxurious dressing rooms, the ability to accommodate guests both in-person and virtual…these are just a few of many

34 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

SHOOT THE DAY PHOTOGRAPHY

highlights.

During COVID-19 they have been diligent about implementing safety precautions to protect you without detracting from the personalized, joyful experience that is bridal shopping. Many have fun surprises in store for brides and unique ways to celebrate your “Say Yes!” moment.

Shopping at an independent boutique isn’t just about picking out the perfect gown but rather having a complete experience. That’s a rarity in this day and age and 100% worth experiencing.

So many owners have interesting stories about how they came to work in this industry, but one common theme is a passion for bridal, often recognised from a young age.

Helping you find your perfect gown and all of the happiness that goes along with that is what makes them light up inside. Making an appointment at your local bridal boutique should be one of the first things you do as you begin planning your wedding. These owners and their amazing consultants stand excited and honoured to help you!

Yours

Shannon Hurd Shannon has been the editor in chief of VOWS, the leading trade magazine for the bridal retail industry, for more than a decade. She maintains an extensive network of wedding professionals, including boutique owners, manufacturers, designers and consultants, and specialises in delving deep into pertinent topics that reflect her sensitivities to the issues of brides-to-be and those of independent bridal click and mortar businesses.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 35

36 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

sabina motasen tells it her way Designer, retailer and marketeer, Sabina has used the difficult past months to refine her own business, produce kit for front-line workers, and to get married.

What she has learned is certainly worth sharing

W

e all need to remember, brides who are planning weddings for 15 people are not the same as the brides who are planning weddings with a 150 guests.

As a wedding dress designer, who’s just had a very small and intimate wedding myself in September, with many of our brides opting to do the same or post-poning, I’m only too familiar with what brides are needing right now.

With unemployment figures edging towards the 2-million mark next month, many brides may find they suddenly have a smaller budget to get married in this everchanging world. We created our debut ready-to-wear range, The Green Collection, of sustainable luxe dresses at affordable prices in the same signature timelessly-chic style, without compromising on quality – so that we can help more brides look and feel fabulous on their special day whatever the size of their weddings.

With all the changing restrictions and everything that is going on right now, bridal boutiques and retailers need to be prepared to help and inspire the brides of today find their

dream dress. At the moment, there are fewer brides who are able to commit to a dress with long-lead times. Brides need dresses with much shorter timescales. They need something now, something budgetfriendly and perhaps something adaptable for a second ceremony too.

Nobody really wants to be spending more money on extra stock, so choose your collections really carefully and try to select styles which are available now. This is the trend that we are seeing with brides who have less time to plan their weddings as government rules are changing

regularly. They are deciding to get married now and opting to having the big reception later. Brides are looking for styles without the usual six to eight months lead times. If you can accommodate this you’ll be dressing more brides.

Unquestionably, bridal boutiques with a larger selection, and that have pieces that are available now in stock, will be better prepared.

We asked some of our wedding industry friends, for their thoughts and we’ve compiled these ten tips to help retailers cater for Covid-era brides.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 37

TOP TEN TIPS 1 Dresses that can be easily transformed to create different bridal looks are perfect for a micro wedding with a big reception later.

Choose styles with separates and lace or tulle over-dresses. The Sabina Motasem Elsa dress is one of our best-selling pieces and is so versatile. It can be worn as a slip-style dress with a silky sash to create a look that could be perfect for a city registry wedding and then can be completely transformed with the Margot lace over-dress for a more romantic, ethereal look. “There are still brides who want to go ahead with their ceremony.

These bride’s feel like it’s a win win as they’re wearing their dress for both events. That way they get to wear it twice!” Sam Walsh at Sass & Grace 2 Stock versatile accessories, like beautiful hair pins and shoe clips which can create looks without costing more and are perfect for two different events.

Hair pins can be clustered together to create the illusion of a larger head piece or worn spaced apart for a more delicate look. This can be really useful for a bride who may be planning for two very different events, and having a number of hair trials, or who might be doing her own hair on the day.

Kelly Spence has a great selection of hair pins.

“Covid-era brides are focusing on intimate weddings. They want it to be special and meaningful, but are willing to compromise for something that is already in stock. They are focused on the wedding itself rather than the extraneous details of a larger wedding.”

Kelly Spence Bridal Accessory Design 3 Brides don’t need to buy two different pairs of shoes for two events.

They can wear one and change them with different shoe clips. Freya Rose stocks a range of shoe clips. Invest in shoe styles with a block heel or mother of pearl heels, perfect for wearing outside on the grass, hardwearing and easily wiped clean.

“The mother of pearl heel is not only beautiful but also quite hardwearing and

easy to wipe clean to look beautiful for the deal. years to come. Boots are trending right now and are popular with city weddings.” 7 Include ‘ready-to-wear’ off-theFreya Rose peg dresses that have little need for alterations.

4 Always have a selection of samples Brides will be willing to compromise on available to buy at discounted prices. the style and details for a lovely dress, We always have a range of samples they look and feel amazing in they can available to buy online and you may have wear now. pieces from previous collections looking 8 Diversify your bridal offering with for beautiful homes. Now is the time to styles that would appeal to all brides, bring those samples out. You may even who are planning weddings now and later want to list the sale on ChicMi too which including short gowns and suits too. has a very large audience. Have your Ask your designers what short styles they designers got samples they’re keen to sell do. Think Keira Knightley’s wedding which you can help sell for them? As well dress – a Chanel number that she had previously worn to a premiere paired with a jacket from the same house and a simple flower crown.

“Some brides are postponing the big party and big dress but not necessarily the wedding ceremony itself. Consider stocking more suits and short gowns for that registry office event.”

Clare Thompson, The Wedding Club

as having your own samples in a sale, look at ways you can add to your sale through the designers you stock.

5 More brides are looking for ways they can be environmentally friendly. Choose sustainable styles to include in your range too. Quite a few designers are now adding eco-friendly options in their collections, due to the increasing demand from brides looking to have a more sustainable wedding. We recently launched The Green Collection of luxe, sustainable and affordable dresses which our brides are loving.

9 Smaller weddings means extra budget to splash out on accessories; stock up on more pieces to widen your accessory collection.

Add new designers to your range, and include beaded belts and silky sashes and shrugs. Different accessories arean easy way to change a bridal look.

10 Bridal boutiques need to put a positive uplifting spin on their socials and content for brides.

Brides are looking for help and need to feel inspired to create their beautiful micro weddings. We all know it’s a very tough time for weddings, but we need to maintain a positive frame of mind together to show our brides they can still have a beautiful and aspirational wedding if they want to, regardless of the size of the wedding party. Share as many 6 Stock pieces with shorter lead-times or expert tips and stories, take time to create available now. Speak to your designers engaging content and support your fellow and ask them which of their styles can be retailers and suppliers. Use a platform made quickly. like Planoly or Later to schedule your Arm yourself with availability posts and save yourself loads of time and information ready for brides and have it use Canva for great templates for social to hand. You can direct them to the styles media. with the shorter lead times if it will seal

38 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

ronaldjoyce.com

FELICITY

“We were thinking about getting married in 2019 but then, thought that 2020 had a better ring to it. Now we’ll have a ‘just us’ wedding in January and decide when the current situation improves, if we want a big party. And yes, I am going to have a dress! Not quite what I always imagined –

PHOTOGRAPHER LIAM GILLAN

perhaps even a trouser suit that I will wear again.”

Out of the Mouths of (Bridal) Babes...

It seems like daily changes in restrictions are the norm now and wedding dates are being switched accordingly. How are couples coping with it, we asked “Once we got over the initial shock of what we could and couldn’t do, we talked at length, between ourselves with our families, and decided that we should count the good things – having each other for a start – and agree that when the time is right we’ll consider our next move. I always dreamed of a big wedding with all the trimmings but am quite prepared not to have one now.”

40 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

“I might sound like a spoiled little princess but since I was quite young I always knew I wanted a huge traditional wedding with everyone there and to be the absolute centre of attention.

So, because of this pandemic all my dreams have been shattered and on days I question whether I want to get married at all. Luckily, my fiancé is a very calming influence and he is now suggesting we have a small ‘do’ of some sort but dress for the occasion and have a luxurious intimate meal at home, take photographs etc, and then later, plan a party that will be unforgettable. I have shopped for a dress for the home wedding and love what I bought but will really splash when we finally get the all-clear.”

“The wedding that wasn’t was to be my second and I am just so thankful that I finally found the right partner with whom I can share so much, that the size of the Big Day or, in fact, when it is, is unimportant to me. I made an appointment at a local bridal boutique early on and when I have a clear picture of what is possible I will certainly head straight back there. The staff were lovely, so kind and helpful and knowledgable and didn’t push me to make a decision. The consultant has phoned me several times just to see how things are going and I really appreciate that attention.”

“We had been saving for a couple of years to ensure that

“We have a plan

our Big Day was big in every respect and we have agreed

that I think will work

that we will still go ahead with those plans whether we have to wait a year or more. No one is going to take my

perfectly. The money

dream away, and that includes a designer gown that

we had put aside to

makes me feel like a princess. We’re lucky, we have

cover the cost of a

a home and two very young children, so that special

wedding for 100+ here

wedding day is very much the icing on the cake.”

is now earmarked for a wedding abroad, next summer, on a beach, and we’ll be paying the fares and expenses WILDMEADOWPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK

“I can’t talk about this. I am close to tears most of the time. I just feel if I knew how things stood I could face up to them. I have my dress and my accessories and it seems that I try them on a good few times a week. I love them, and I want to wear them for my wedding day, not just in front of my bedroom mirror.”

for a small group to join us, provided travel plans can be made. We’re talking to English planners based in Portugal and are confident we’ll get there and have a brilliant time.”

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 41

G E T TIN G THE B EST

I

Instagram is the goto platform for brides.

Myrna Daramy, the bridal industry communication guru in the US, suggests how you can build up your content strategy and see a difference in engagement

t’s been quite a year! With the entire world having to take a long pause because of the pandemic, it’s no surprise that the wedding industry has endured severe setbacks. Wedding dates had to be postponed, bridal vendors had to pivot, and bridal salons had to embrace technology to survive.

More specifically, technology has played a vital role during these challenging times, as it has been the lifeline that helped us all stay connected, continue to communicate, and maintain some sense of community.

Now that bridal stores – here in the US, that is – have started to reopen, the overall consensus from my clients is that Covid-19 has forced this industry to get very creative to continue servicing brides during this time.

Whether or not digital marketing played a large part in your communications strategy before, store owners now seem to embrace social media to engage and communicate with their brides more than ever.

Instagram has more than 500 million active daily users with the single most popular age range of users between the ages of 25 and 34, followed by users between the ages

42 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

of 18 and 24; it makes perfect sense that it is the platform where brides hang out. I’ve always considered Instagram to be the hybrid of all social media platforms due to the diverse demographic of users and its many photo and video features, so it’s also no surprise that it would be the social channel of choice for bridal stores to engage with brides.

And despite your belief in thinking that posting everything and anything is better than not posting anything at all, I want to share a few tips and tricks that will make the best use of Instagram to help increase your exposure, create more engaging content, and build your audience faster than ever.

1 Revisit your bio and optimise it.

It’s so easy to get caught up in the photos and captions so much that you forget about the most important piece of your Instagram profile. Your Instagram bio is important real estate so you should consider including the following: w A keyword for your business in the name field of your bio to increase the possibility of popping up in search results w A brief description of who you are, what you offer, and who you do it for in your brand voice w A branded hashtag that will

FROM INSTAG RAM encourage sharing and tagging w An intentional URL link that points to your home page or a specific promotional page w Line breaks to separate the block of text to make it more appealing w Special characters or special fonts to stand out 2 Make sure you are killing it in your Instagram Stories. Although it’s important to have a visually pleasing and cohesive feed, so much engagement happens outside of the nine squares. They’re among the most popular types of content on the platform, where users can’t seem to get enough of the time-sensitive, less polished images or videos you share.

Posting Stories are an engagement booster for sure, so you definitely want to make sure that they are incorporated into your strategy.

content, so it’s important to use them in your posts if you are hoping to gain more followers or connect with more prospective brides.

I know that it can look a bit cluttered when you use all 30 of the hashtags that Instagram allows for every post. So a simple workaround is to place a few of the more relevant hashtags in your actual caption and then put the rest in a comment below your post.

monitoring the initial 30 minutes that a post is published.

A simple trick is to visit relevant hashtags that you will use for your post and interact with the posts that have recently been posted. LIke as many posts with that hashtag as you can, and even post a comment here and there. Then post your content and then continue to engage for approximately 15 minutes after.

Interact with your feed 15 minutes before and after posting. The Instagram algorithm is all about engagement so the platform is monitoring the initial 30 minutes that a post is published

5 Follow your favourite hashtags. I love the fact that Instagram allows 3 Produce more video content. Stories users to follow hashtags. It is a are very effective in terms of content, wonderful way to discover new feeds as well as get inspiration. (It’s also one but with the recent addition of Reels of the ways that brides can discover (IG’s response to TikTok), you should you.) take advantage of the many ways to use video to connect with your brides.

6 Include a call-to-action in your It’s an easy way to step up your captions. Rather than post passively, game and enhance the chances help steer your followers towards of your content being seen. In fact, Instagram’s algorithm tends to give all engaging with you. By simply asking video content more love, so you can’t questions, publishing tag-a-friend posts, and pointing people to your avoid it.

Take advantage of IGTV and create stories or your link in bio, you are encouraging users to engage. a series so that viewers can tap on the name of the series to watch other 7 Interact with your feed 15 minutes episodes. before and after posting. The 4 Expand your reach with hashtags Instagram algorithm is all about and geotags. Hashtags are the engagement, so the platform is primary way that users search for

Instagram is the go-to platform for brides By incorporating these best use practices into your Instagram content strategy, you’ll be sure to see a difference in engagement. I’d love to know what you’ve incorporated into your IG strategy and what techniques are working best for you!

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 43

A NOTHE R WAY

LUNA BEA

DYNAMIC DUO Damaris Paputsakis and Rebecca Goodwin are the twosome behind the brand

An international audience Whereas long-standing Find Your Dream Dress focuses on the UK market and brands with widescale distribution in the UK, The Wedding the relationship guru with the partners Tribe is a very different proposition and oversees marketing, social and with 60 labels on board, many of engagement. Damaris, 38, manages which might have just a single stockist the business strategy and editorial here, while others, like Suzanne bringing the creative eye, design and Neville and Sassi Holford, are well user experience to life. known and well represented.

“We completely complement each “Some labels we are working other in terms of what we bring to the with do not as yet have a sizeable table,” says Rebecca. “What is and distribution network across different will always remain important to us is markets or a variety of stockists (there to have a solid working relationship are 225 across the world listed on and a good laugh. We believe in the site) but, we believe in them and our journey and the product and we want them to have a platform to be simply love what we do”. marketed on. It’s a great opportunity The motivation behind the business for visibility and for them to grow,” came from Damaris, when she herself says Damaris. was a bride-to-be. “Our vision was Although designers and stockists to have a cool, simple and stylish can have their product portfolio space for the fashion-conscious and information updated regularly, ehind the Dress Tribe is a they also have full autonomy to do it dynamic female duo that has bride, where they could search for inspiration and the relevant product themselves on the back end of the roots in football, and while information. site. The responsibility for promotion that may be worlds apart Offering a great service to brides, – digital marketing and PR – lies from bridal the two saw the endeavor understanding our partners and fully with The Dress Tribe whose as quite simply bringing brides knowing their objectives are is the mainstream of communication has something that was missing in a fun, core of our relationship management; been through the key social media stylish and efficient manner. we want to build a community with platforms, Instagram, Facebook and Rebecca, 33, manages the day-toPinterest. day running of The Dress Tribe – she’s both brides and our designers.”

The Dress Tribe is a directory that aims to keep brides informed about designers and their latest collections and to marry them up to stockists that carry those labels. The platform is international and as such specialises in top-of-themarket names, so it has a particular target audience

B

44 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Looking ahead The duo has some exciting developments in the pipeline, including partnering with stockists in a series of pop-ups, the first of which will be in Sweden, where they are working with the Wild at Heart boutique during November and December.

“The pop-ups will bring designers to regions that are not yet represented. Considering today’s reality where travel is limited, we need and are passionate about bringing the

CHOSEN BY ONE DAY

designs to the bride,” says Becs. Also on the drawing board is an ambitious plan to strengthen the Dress Tribe’s B2B services to and between designers and retailers and they are looking at the possibility of direct online sales for certain collections.

“Without revealing too much we will be launching a campaign in 2021 with some of our designers that is very close to our heart and really embodies our values for and of real brides…” Watch this space.

ALENA LEENA

“Our aim is to make TDT a verb.

We want brides to say “I’m TDT’ing my wedding dress!” says Becs. “Our audience wants a variety of options at their fingertips. Whether they are looking for that something special, for example - a traditional wedding dress or something very specific - a sequin mini for their garden party or two-piece suit for the trip down to the town hall – we have the designers to make that wish a reality.

“Our designers very much identify with our brand – slick, simple and modern. Our core aim is to make sure that the brands shine through and that their individuality is noticed. They also love the ease of the site along with our working approach, which is open, flexible and adaptable to their needs.

“Most commonly we receive feedback about their love of fellow brands and collections of designers we carry. We’ve had some lovely messages from brides telling us when they found their dresses because of our site or Instagram as well as countless thank you letters as we helped them track down certain outfits.”

At the moment The Dress Tribe only accepts stockists that carry at least one of the partnered designers to register with the site and, like the brands themselves, retailers have access to independently create their profiles and update their in-store collections.

“Bridal is a small world so often retailers will prompt new designers to have a look at TDT or vise versa,”says Damaris.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 45

R ESILIEN T A N D RES O U R C EF U L Just as retailers talked us through the ups and downs of this very, very hard year, the second lockdown was announced. We went back for further comment and came away feeling so very proud to be part of this industry that will not be beaten in your shop with a pre-arranged rep visit; at a ‘pop up show’ eg Milton Keynes?

We have bought new dresses from all of our labels; we feel now more than ever we need to stay engaged with our future brides and offer them the latest in bridal design and fashion.

We have done our buying in a mix of ways from virtual online with Essense of Australia to showroom buying with Allure and Maggie Sottero.

What labels do you carry?

Essense of Australia, Martina Liana, Rebecca Ingram, Maggie Sottero, Sottero and Midgley, Allure Bridals.

Claire and Mel WEDDING BELLES of FOUR OAKS Sutton Coldfield, West Midlands

Did you look at any labels that were new to you?

No

What trade events do you normally attend?

We would normally attend Harrogate every year, it’s our favourite weekend of the year and we usually take our whole team and rent a house. It’s a great weekend to bond and of course their input into buying our new dresses is important to us. We also attend the London show each March.

Have you bought for 2021 and how – from a virtual showroom; on a oneto-one zoom meet with the supplier;

46 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Are you communicating your purchases to potential brides and how?

Yes we are absolutely shouting from the rooftops via our social media platforms that we have new collections arriving in all the time. We purchased a small selection at the start of the first lockdown and just prior so when we reopened in June we were able to showcase these new dresses to our full advantage.

Are your brides cutting down on their spend?

For us, it’s the opposite really… brides seem happy to spend more. Maybe this is because they spent less money during lockdown and now have bigger budgets, or the fact they may be having smaller weddings and therefore want to spend more on their dress? I think time will tell…

Andrew and Rob Pearce CREATIQUES BRIDAL BOUTIQUE Southsea, Hampshire What trade events do you normally attend?

London Bridal Fashion Week, White Gallery, Harrogate Bridal Show, and Valmont Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week.

Did you look at any labels that were new to you?

We purchased Adore, by Justin Alexander and Donna Salado as our new label.

Are you communicating your purchases to potential brides and how?

We are posting at regular time points our bridal collections, and now that our new occasion wear room is open we are posting that collection also. We are going live on

Thursday to check in with our brides on both Facebook and Instagram.

We also send newsletters out and are adding all the news points to our appointment scheduling.

And on the latest lockdown?

We came back with a bang and have so enjoyed getting back into the swing of the shop.

But with the latest lockdown the bridal industry has been rocked Are your brides cutting down on again, and brides who had booked their spend? their weddings for early next year are No, in fact they are not looking at budgets. We have had brides coming becoming nervous and rescheduling with many now extending their dates in and saying they want a dress now to 2022 and some to 2023. so we are able to sell our samples, That said, the boutique has been which is a bonus, plus having had such a huge discontinued list in March busy with appointments which is very meant we had a good size selection of positive, and currently we are looking at 85% conversions. ready-to-wear in the store.

AVENIR 35 LIGHT

What labels do you carry?

Justin Alexander, Sincerity, Mark Lesley, Maggie Sottero and Sottero Midgley.

AVENIR 35 LIGHT

Have you bought for 2021 and how – from a virtual showroom; on a oneto-one zoom meet with the supplier; in your shop with a pre-arranged rep visit; at a ‘pop up show’ eg Milton Keynes?

We attended and bought via zoom presentations and fashion events from Justin Alexander, Sincerity. At Milton Keynes we bought 2021 from Mark Lesley. We have Kirsty from Maggie Sottero/Sottero Midgley coming to see us as we didn’t want to travel all the way to Liverpool for one evening, plus we were worried about travel to an area that could have been at high risk for Covid-19 but we did however watch the fashion event that they put on and we have some firm favourites.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 47

Maria Musgrove

channels demand feeding every single day! As new gowns arrive they’re posted on reels, carousels and whatever else my social media manager out in Australia chooses to do with them. We need to keep the brand out there in front of the brides constantly.

PANTILES BRIDE Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent What trade events do you normally attend?

The calendar for the year used to look like this: March London Bridal Fashion Week; April Barcelona as guests of Jesus Peiro at the Hotel Hesperia (and a little trip to the main show; In 2019 to see Enzoani and Sassi Holford as they weren’t showing in London; September Harrogate, of course, and for the Awards.

Have you bought for 2021 and how – from a virtual showroom; on a oneto-one zoom meet with the supplier; in your shop with a pre-arranged rep visit; at a ‘pop up show’ eg Milton Keynes?

I’ve never been a catalogue shopper and even now I prefer to ’see it, like it and buy it’ in a retail environment for my own clothes. Yes, call me old fashioned – I am a Baby Boomer after all, unlike my 16-year-old, Generation Z daughter who navigates boohoo. com like a Formula 1 driver screaming round a race circuit!

However, unless I was going to be last off the grid I needed to get virtual!

I watched a couple of virtual shows for Go Bridal and was impressed but chose not to buy as at lockdown I was just taking delivery of gowns ordered in September 2019. Survival not stock is more important to me.

At Pantiles Bride I bought from three designers from photos and videos of the gowns which brought them to life. I only invested in the minimum from one of my designers and as she is my best selling designer it was easy to re-invest in seven pieces.

For one label I had my rep come to the boutique. She had over half of the collection and great images on her Ipad of the remaining gowns.

Are your brides cutting down on their spend?

At Go Bridal we’ve seen a slight downturn in spend and our sample room there is busier than ever. At The Pantiles Bride, if anything, my brides are spending more. I’ve had brides saying that they have more to spend as they’ve saved lots of money with Did you look at any labels that were no longer going into London and I had a bride today saying that as she will new to you? be having fewer guests so she has Thinking that the trend might be that more of her overall budget to spend smaller wedding equates to smaller dress and smaller budget and a more on her gown. Bring it on!

We may have fewer appointments relaxed gown, I flirted with Anna Kara.

However, I have decided not to invest but with a higher conversion rate (around 70 to 80%), a higher average in a new label for now. spend and less investment in samples Are you communicating your purchases we intend to be celebrating our 24th year in business next February and to potential brides and how? onto the big 25th the year after.

The ever-hungry social media What labels do you carry?

At The Pantiles Bride: Enzoani, Jesus Peiro, Sassi Holford, Suzanne Neville and Willowby.

At Go Bridal: Bianco Evento, Blue by Enzoani, Beautiful, Maggie Sottero, Rebecca Ingram and Sincerity.

48 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Emma Hartley EMMA HARTLEY BRIDALWEAR Coln, Lancashire What trade events do you normally attend?

We would normally attend London Bridal Fashion Week in March and Harrogate in September along with trips to see individual designers in various locations spread throughout the year. We like to have something new arriving regularly for our brides rather than a huge influx of dresses all arriving at the same time.

Have you bought for 2021 and how – from a virtual showroom; on a oneto-one zoom meet with the supplier; in your shop with a pre-arranged rep visit; at a ‘pop up show’ eg Milton Keynes?

We have bought quite a few dresses already for 2021. We were fortunate to have attended a private buying event hosted by one of our designers in March and lucky enough to fly off to the Amsterdam Bridal Event just before the lockdown.

During lockdown we arranged to have dresses from a new designer we were considering shipped to us so that we could view before purchasing.

We had researched and viewed images whilst we were closed. We also attended one of our designers head office in September to buy Spring 2021.

And we are in the process of choosing a collection by viewing videos of each dress. To be honest we have been avoiding buying trips in hotels and venues as we are painfully aware that if an attendee or member of staff at one of these events tests positive for Covid-19 we would be forced to self-isolate.

Did you look at any labels that were new to you?

We researched new labels while we were closed and chose a new British designer. We were keen to ensure that if the supply chain from abroad became untenable we would still have a supply of dresses.

Are you communicating your purchases to potential brides and how?

We are using our usual social media outlets to show images and videos to communicate all new purchases.

Are your brides cutting down on their spend?

It is impossible to predict how trading patterns will evolve going forward regarding customer confidence and spend. We re-opened as soon as we were allowed on 15 June and had a steady stream of brides confidently booking weddings for 2021. It was far busier than we could have hoped for

but, as the situation drags on without any real signs of improvement, brides are losing their nerve and delaying booking their weddings.

In terms of spend, I think there will be brides who decide on a cheaper, less elaborate dress for a more pared-down style of ceremony, but I also predict (and hope ) there will be brides who have saved money during the pandemic and are prepared to blow the budget, determined to have the wedding of their dreams with the party of a lifetime and a dress that makes them feel amazing.

And on the latest lockdown? And on the latest lockdown?

Although here in Lancashire we have been under additional restrictions since July, we managed to carry on trading despite being tipped into tier 2 then 3, and our diary for November was fully booked. We are now looking at cancelling for the third time this year. The impact on business is hard to deal with but whether one believes the Government is right in its latest move – I personally do not – we have to move on and plan for the better times, and our all-important customers, the brides. Right now, escalating the communications strategy is a priority. I do feel confident the bridal industry will bounce back we just have to hang in there until things start to improve.

What labels do you carry?

Our designers include Allure bridals, Enzoani, Randy Fenoli, Beloved by Casablanca, Nicola Anne.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 49

Danni Hesketh Y.A.P BRIDAL Newcastle upon Tyne, Northumberland What trade events do you normally attend?

Our usual yearly planner would include dates for our annual trip to Barcelona buying in January, London Bridal Fashion Week in the Spring and Harrogate Bridal Show in the Autumn.

We also tend to include in a couple of meetings with our designers or trunk show events throughout the year to trial new season styles ahead of topping up our collections.

Have you bought for 2021 and how – from a virtual showroom; on a oneto-one zoom meet with the supplier; in your shop with a pre-arranged rep visit; at a ‘pop up show’ eg Milton Keynes?

This year we have needed to temporarily evolve in our way of buying; our designer labels have been forward thinking throughout and provided us with virtual catwalk shows, online look books and zoom video call walk-throughs of key styles we’re interested in.

What labels do you carry?

We carry iconic hand-picked styles by the following design houses across the globe – Savin London, Maggie Sottero, Rebecca Ingram, Madi Lane Are you communicating your Bridal, Evie Young Bridal, Libelle and purchases to potential brides and Aire Barcelona. how?

Did you look at any labels that were We are big advocates of social media and love to promote our new ranges new to you? with teaser campaigns and posts on We have researched into key new arrivals in studio on our social designers that are both current and channels @yapbridal new to the bridal scene and always keep an eye on hot trends that we may feel fit our North East bridal market perfectly.

Are your brides cutting down on their spend?

Our bridal market has adapted to the

50 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

current situation and our brides-to-be as always have a complete mixture of ideal spends in mind. Some have saved during the lockdown period and now have more to spend on their dream dress, opening doors to higher-end designers; some now want a second look for their evening celebrations and others now have elopements and smaller intimate days in mind with a lower ideal spend to match.

ETTA, BADGLEY MISCHKA

TH E BR IDAL COLLECTIVE A great new name for a great new line-up of hugely-successful labels – what was once Enzoani’s ‘portfolio’ is now The Bridal Collective.

We asked CEO Mary Nguyen to tell all…

The change of name, what brought that about?

Our vision, from the beginning, was to grow beyond a single brand, and our mission has always focused on product and cultural diversity to promote inclusivity. We always wanted to create a distinctive line of several

collections to serve the diverse bridal market. Enzoani’s rebrand will establish a distinct corporate identity, allowing each brand to express its special character, and to meet their customers’ emotional needs. This is a pivotal moment in the reinvention of our company.

52 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

How are you getting the message over the retailers?

A press release was issued to all retailers with details of the name change, and also sent to publications who have kindly released content.

Our brilliant customer service teams are at the ready if any stockists have

AMERTEUIL, ELYSEE ATELIER ANDOMEDA, ETOILE

questions or need extra support.

As the whole world turns to Zoom we are no different. We received such great feedback on the informative value of our first Global Retail Partner Zoom meeting – so we’ve decided to host another round! It provides a welcoming, intimate space for everyone to ask questions, share ideas, vent your frustrations... or just hang out!

Your reach across the world – where are your focus distribution companies?

Enzoani was founded in 2005 and is headquartered in Southern California, with offices and retail partnerships around the world. Each season the brand continues to expand, achieving both a strong national and global presence with offices in the US,

Our virtual showroom has also Europe, UK, and Africa, along with dedicated retail locations in more than allowed retailers to browse our collections with their staff, save 60 countries. dresses, see the dress in motion through our live stream events and How many gowns are made a year?

The Bridal Collective brands all launch then eventually complete their order, without ever leaving their computers. once a year, with collections varying Brides themselves are doing even year on year. The 2021 collections are more of their own research before made up of 142 gowns – 30 Enzoani, shopping. During the pandemic 34 Blue by Enzoani, 8 ÉLYSÉE Atelier, they are making faster decisions, 28 ÉLYSÉE, 26 Étoile, and 16 Badgley purchasing their dream dress on their Mischka. first appointment.

How do you see retailers buying in What can retailers do to ensure they future… and brides themselves? maximise on potential?

With the absence of trade events, We have loved watching how retailers have had to do much of this proactive our retailers have been season buying remotely. A key to throughout the Covid-19 pandemic. making this possible is having the Whether they’ve added to their indigital tools to allow stores to buy store experience or taken to social using virtual appointments through video calls, using videos and pictures. media.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 53

PEARL, BY ENZOANI

54 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Tell us a bit about each brand under the Bridal Collective umbrella.

ENZOANI BRAND www.enzoani.com Within the Enzoani division we have the flagship label Enzoani, and Blue

by Enzoani. Kang Chun, ‘KC’, Lin is the creative mastermind behind the design and development of both labels. In terms of brand personality, in her choice of wedding dress, the Enzoani woman embodies elegance and romance, whether she gravitates toward the captivating allure of Blue, or the show-stopping gorgeousness of Enzoani.

Enzoani RRP: £2,200-£3,480 Since its launch in 2005, Enzoani has continued to be a standout name in couture bridal wear, bringing forth innovative, trend-setting design that transcends time.

KC’s focus on superior inner construction makes the gowns lighter and more comfortable than ever before, while maintaining the signature glamour and high quality that Enzoani has come to be known for. Chic and classy. Sophisticated yet playful.

Effortlessly elegant, with a fashionforward eye for luxurious, couture style.

The Enzoani woman encompasses all of these ideals while also maintaining strength and confidence in her own unique personality and tastes.

the flagship label, Enzoani.

Our Blue by Enzoani bride radiates grace and confidence, naturally drawing in onlookers with her joy and charm. She is a style standout, and her choice in bridal and formalwear reflects her one-of-a-kind beauty, inside and out. ÉLYSÉE BRAND www.elyseebridal.com/ Launched in 2019, this division, the name of which is derived from the Ancient Greek word Elysium, meaning a place or state of perfect

Enzoani has continued to be a standout name in couture bridal wear, bringing forth innovative, trend-setting design that transcends time happiness, brings together ÉLYSÉE, ÉLYSÉE Atelier and ÉTOILE (previously Beautiful). Timeless and gorgeous, the ÉLYSÉE collections are sure to amaze.

Brides will find ÉLYSÉE familiar and rooted in the heritage of traditional bridal design, while pushing the boundaries of fashion and enhancing sex appeal in an edited and acceptable way.

ÉLYSÉE Atelier RRP: £2,685 - £4,650 With its debut in 2020, the ÉLYSÉE Atelier collection takes a couturelevel approach to the sumptuous and Blue by Enzoani opulent decoration characterised RRP: £1,620 - £2,310 by the ÉLYSÉE aesthetic. ÉLYSÉE Introduced in 2007, Blue by Enzoani Atelier explores the evolution of the epitomises the quintessential, classic brand’s signature style and complex bride by offering style that endures pattern design. Gowns from the line time and tradition without forsaking are enriched with hand-beaded and fashion and price. embroidered details subtly woven Carefully designed and curated by throughout the intricately handKC, the collection is timelessly elegant placed lace for a chic, sophisticated with romantic laces, sweet and sexy bridal vision come to life. silhouettes, and a fit and finish like no other. Blue by Enzoani is moderately ÉLYSÉE priced and is meant to complement RRP: £1,950 -£2,475

Launched in 2019, ÉLYSÉE represents Enzoani’s first entry into the mainstream bridal market in a collection with high-end appeal and accessible pricing. The collection is inspired by Neo-classical art and architecture, and uses modern silhouettes to accentuate and contour the figure. ÉTOILE RRP: £1,260-£1,480 The Beautiful Bridal collection was re-branded ÉTOILE in 2020 and became part of the ÉLYSÉE Division, and updated with a fresh infusion of elegance and youthful, feminine styling. The collection is designed to achieve the same luxury and taste as ÉLYSÉE, but at a modest price point. ÉTOILE will delight brides with its signature body-contouring fit in classic and contemporary silhouettes, along with its subtle yet tastefully modern embellishments BADGLEY MISCHKA BRAND www. badgleymischka.com/ Badgley Mischka defines timeless glamour. Craftsmanship, glamour, and sparkle are integral to this label’s signature and best seen in its couture evening dresses and shoes that are beloved by celebrities, fashion icons, people who demand statementmaking style.

Badgley Mischka Bride RRP: £2,495 - £3,435 In 2012, Enzoani partnered with Mark Badgley and James Mischka, the world-famous design duo behind the renowned eponymous brand. The Badgley Mischka Bride division utilises Enzoani’s experienced bridal network of production, sales, marketing, distribution, and operations to provide a seamless experience to brides and retail partners for a collection that epitomises the glitz and glamour associated with old Hollywood and the icons of the silver screen. This is vintage with a gorgeously modern, fashion-forward twist.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 55

56 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Talking to Jenny Packham

The Bridal Council is a US non-profit organisation whose membership consists of fashion designers, retailers, media and industry experts. Rachel Leonard, its Editorial Director, talked to Jenny Packham, whose autobiography should be on your coffee table in the spring 1 How many years have you been in business and did you start with bridal or evening?

We started our business over 30 years ago when I was very young with a collection of eveningwear.

2 How and when did you broaden your offering to include bridalwear?

I started to design bridalwear in 2004. There’s is a synergy with eveningwear and it seemed like a natural progression.

3 When did you first know that 1930s glamour was going to be the cornerstone of your design aesthetic?

Although I am drawn to that era for its sublime aesthetic, I am always searching for new inspiration to add modernity.

world with the pandemic and postponement of weddings, are brides still looking for the dress of their dreams in the same way?

I don’t think so… and I think it is too early to see the outcome in terms of bridal fashion but often harsh situations give way to liberation and change and what has gone before loses its attraction.

6 Tell us about the launch of the new book, How To Make A Dress. What is it about and when does come out?

The book is published by Ebury and will be available in early March. It’s a personal and honest memoir of my life in fashion but also a look into our fascinating relationship with our clothes. There is, of course, a chapter that focuses on bridal.

4 What is the inspiration behind your upcoming bridal collection?

The inspiration for the new collection – which became quite a challenge to produce during lockdown – was in a way the shock of our predicament and how to survive within the new rules.

More than ever I wanted to create a beautiful collection, which would engender feelings of hope and bring real pleasure.

7 Is designing a red-carpet dress for a celebrity a different discipline to that of designing a wedding dress?

I think they are very different. A red carpet dress is designed to reflect a moment in a star’s life – her mood and how at that time she desires to be seen. The wedding dress, hopefully like the marriage, is forever and therefore should reflect not only the magic of the moment but also the other-worldly experience of that day.

5 With all that is going on in the

8 Do you think social dressing will

change as a result of the pandemic?

I hope not.

9 Are celebrities any different when choosing a dress for their wedding than your other brides? Any memorable moments?

Recently we made Hilary Duff’s wedding dress. Hilary was clear about the look she wanted, which was a strong silhouette with a sculptured shoulder and cape-like sleeves. It was a look I particularly like and it was a thrill to create it for her.

Long distant dress designing has its challenges and there is a frustration at not being able to be there but it all worked beautifully; she was a very happy bride.

10 During the pandemic lockdown, did you do anything creative over that period of time?

When lockdown started I couldn’t design. Everything felt so sad and I decided to ‘tidy’ my studio, to still my thoughts, and to do something useful.

I found so many wonderful things and gradually became inspired. The short reprieve from the relentless workload gave way to a sense of freedom when I began to sketch. That felt good.

How to Make A Dress will be published 4 March 2021. ISBN 9781529103021, £22

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 57

TE N Q U EST IONS TO

The House Of Mooshki There is no question about the Mooshki look – it is instantly recognisable with a defined sense of style that is vital in these days of look-alikes 1 Who is behind the label and when was it launched?

House of Mooshki was formed in late 2009 by managing director Vikki McCarthy-Wright.

2 What was Vikki’s vision? What did she see as the personality that would make the brand stand out in a very crowded marketplace?

We shortened a ballgown we

had designed and the signature Mooshki look was born. We are now the biggest brand in the world producing short tea-length wedding dresses and we have a massive army of fans.

3 Where is the line produced and where is it designed and by whom?

Everything is originated in the UK and finished in the UK. We have

58 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

our own factory in the Far East who only make for us, which means we have complete control of the whole manufacturing process.

4 Fabrics - where are they sourced?

When it comes to our fabric choice, we scour the world markets and specialist producers to find the best, from New York to the Far East and everywhere in between. And we do

that sourcing in person so we can see and touch the quality; we have to ensure that a particular fabric is right for us and therefore right for our brides.

5 What have you found is the best way of promoting the label?

Pinterest! It’s where almost all our brides find us initially. Heavy promotion is undertaken through our social media in general but the best promotion is word of mouth.

6 And during the recent very difficult months, how have you reached your stockists and, ultimately brides themselves?

Again, through social media and being active and present. We aren’t the sort of people who try and gloss over any significant issues that affect the world. If something is bad (like the worldwide pandemic has been) we try to tell it like it is but with the addition of some good humour.

7 Where is your biggest market?

Our biggest market is the UK but in a typical year we would normally visit two or three cities in the USA, twice each, so that’s a massive market for us. We see brides individually in our hotel suite and design their dresses together. We carry anywhere between 40-60 dresses with us in a broad range of styles and sizes to ensure we have the makings of their perfect dress.

8 With two seasons of no trade events, have you found sales have dipped overall?

Of course we have; anybody who says different is lying to themselves!

It’s been difficult but with dynamic thought, careful planning and being one step ahead of the competition we can ensure we are set for the future.

in wedding days themselves?

Short dresses have always been our main focus and there has been a definite upsurge in interest. The benefits of a Mooshki tea-length dress is the ease of movement, the relaxed elegance but no compromise on bridal style.

10 Plans going forward please We have just purchased a Victorian Pumphouse to renovate and turn into a wedding venue. It was built in 1873 and has been largely untouched since the end of the Second World War so it’s a mammoth task but the results will be amazing. The reaction already has been fantastic and booking enquiries are already flooding in for 2021 and 2022. From the brides we have been speaking to, 2022 seems to be the light at the end of this covid tunnel.

9 Are short dresses doing better than long because of the changes

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 59

TH E WE D D I N G T RA DER GUIDE TO

Simply Red

Bold colour makes for high spirits and introduces fun to fashion. Barcelona was bursting with great shades (see Peta Hunt’s report on page 64). Here’s our pick of reds – from letter-box brilliant to the more subtle burgundies...

ELIZA JANE HOWELL Style: Tequila Fabrics: French net Special features: Hand beaded RRP: £2,475 How/where to view collection and order: Call for info T: +44 (0)20 7436 2992 E: info@elizajanehowell.com W: elizajanehowell.com

DEMETRIOS Style: AM12 Fabrics: Lace and tulle Special features: Beadwork, glitter and off-the-shoulder deep straps RRP: POA How/where to view collection and order: Email as below or contact your Demetrios sales rep.

T: + 39 02 215 2176 E: info@ilissafashiongroup.com W: demetrios.com

60 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

ABBIE JADE Style: Hayley Fabrics/materials Heavy stretch crepe with delicate lace detail Special features Lace detailed cap sleeves providing flattering coverage over the arms and a lace V-back. Sophisticated yet effortlessly sexy dress.

RRP: £170 How/where to view collection and order: Register online for a wholesalers account to order stock, or request an appointment for a rep to visit.

T: 07769 321973 E: info@abbie-jade.co.uk W: abbie-jade.co.uk

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 61

SORELLA VITA

BY ESSENSE DESIGNS Style: 9398 Fabrics: Chiffon Special features: Long, flowing ruffle over the bodice that transitions to the hem of the highlow skirt.

RRP: POA How/where to view collection and order: Email for info E: retailer@essensedesigns.com W: essensedesigns.com

62 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

KENNETH WINSTON COLOUR Style: 5335L Fabrics: Crepe Special features: Cut-back back detail that is bound to get noticed.

RRP: £268 How/where to view collection and order: Phone/email for details T: +44 (0)1765 530282 E: contact@privatelabelbyg.com W: kennethwinson.com

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I ELBETH N G T R AGILLIS D E R ♦ 63

Style: Chloe top and Scarlet

MULTIWRAP BY ELIZA & ETHAN Style: Bali Fabrics: Heavy knit jersey Special features: Can be wrapped over 30 different ways RRP: £185 How/where to view collection and order: The Bridesmaids by Eliza & Ethan range and perfectly-matched Multiwrap range are online at elizaandethan.com/ T: +44 (0)1277 412502 E: Info@minervadd.co.uk W: elizaandethan.com/ or www.minervadd.co.uk

64 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

MASCARA Style: MC181459 Fabrics: Jersey/hot fix embroidery Special features: Plunge neck, slashed skirt, definitely red carpet!

RRP: £219 How/where to view collection and order: Virtual online showroom T: + 44 (0) 20 8965 1522 E: info@mascaracollection.com W: mascaracollection.com

MORILEE BRIDESMAIDS Style: 21692 Fabrics: Chiffon Special features: Pockets – an essential!

RRP: £220 How/where to view collection and order: View online, call or email to order.

T: + 44 (0)1636 700889 E: ukmarketing@morilee.com W: uk.morilee.com

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 65

Lockdown with Veni

If you’ve been on social media this last week you will be no stranger to seeing the hashtag #loveisntcancelled trending on Instagram as suppliers worldwide share their thoughts. We caught up with award-winning Veni Infantino (by Zoom of course) to hear all about how her brand Ronald Joyce is changing with the times “It has been a tough year for many of my stockists,” Veni tells us. “With weddings postponed, shops closed and now another lockdown it has been so difficult for brides, but they never fail to amaze me with their optimism. My own daughter Claudia had to postpone her wedding, which was due to take place earlier this

year, so I know first-hand how terribly sad it has been for these girls whose dream weddings were taken away from them. “Remaining upbeat we still celebrated by having our own little garden party and the wedding will go ahead next year, just with a cut-back guest list for those who cannot travel and to comply with whatever the

66 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

guidelines will be at the time.

“Well, one good thing for me is that the Ronald Joyce Office is in my home, so I was lucky enough in lockdown to spend all those extra hours at home doing what I love - researching and sketching. I will say that this is the most time I have ever had to sketch and come up with ideas!

“For Spring 2021 I have released two collections which we were able to show to our customers at smaller, more intimate events given that the big bridal shows couldn’t go ahead this year. I find speaking with my customers at the events incredibly rewarding – I have worked with some of them for decades. They had to have personal appointment slots to come and see the dresses which meant I could sit down with them and really discuss the individual pieces. There are certain dresses we changed there and then on the day if a stockist thought a dress would suit their clientele better with a different fabric, sleeves, or beading. It meant I could really listen to them and adapt styles that I knew would be a success for them. There was one style where I completely cut-out the back which meant more customers bought that style!”

Let’s look at the collections…

“My signature collection, The Ronald Joyce Collection, is made up of gowns with influences from catwalk trends. It is for the timeless, romantic bride with a flair for fashion. I love watching runway shows and shopping in London spotting the next big thing that I can carry over into bridal.

I’m always collecting fabrics and examples of things I love to see if I can replicate them into my designs.

“The look I go for is very classic in style and shape, but with eyecatching elements such as 3D flowers, a standout sleeve or neckline and lots of texture.

“This season the collection is smaller than I would usually release because I understand that stores had only just purchased our last season in lockdown, and much of the public are still to get into store to see it.

The pieces I have introduced bring in a totally new dimension and so complement last season’s gowns in store.

“The new collection comes with many customisable elements giving brides a real sense of both personalisation and value for money.

Brides have needed to be adaptable with changing regulations meaning they’ve had to change venues, wedding dates and times of year, so my dresses also need to be adaptable for changes in venue and of course the seasons!

“Some of my favourite pieces from the collection include 69609 Frida, a fit and flare gown with an on-trend plain skirt paired with a heavily beaded tulle bodice that has 3D floral appliques, sheer sleeves and a plunging neckline. It is such a beautiful, understated look which could be easily worn for a smaller Covid-secure wedding. And then I have designed a matching overskirt for (69610) to carry on the beaded tulle look over the skirt which could be worn to the bigger post-Covid celebration!

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 67

“Then there is the romantic and elegant Fernanda, 69608, a highend, couture-style strapless lace appliquéd gown. It has sexy sheer cut-out side panels and light beading for a touch of glamour. The dress also comes with detachable chiffon ruched sleeves to give a different look to suit each individual bride’s taste.

“Another favourite which is inspired by new beginnings and summer weddings is Felicity 69606. A bold floral lace with an almost crochet feel.

It is utterly modern and whimsical. It has a stunning high neck and striking back teamed with a chic A-line skirt.

The gown comes with a detachable bodice to suit both season and personal style and a detachable belt.

“And there’s a chunky lace design with a real boho feel called Francesca, style 69607. It has a real light and airy feel perfect for outdoor weddings.

Our stores loved the delicate falling off-the-off-shoulder cap sleeves and that is also comes with a detachable

bodice lining for those who don’t want the sheer look. There my some delicate 3D flower appliques added to the wait to soften the look.

“My other collection, The Victoria Jane Collection, is for the modern bride. I like to think of it as affordable luxury. These dresses were designed with smaller, more intimate weddings in mind and so they tend to be understated with less layers, less beading and simpler lace designs.

This season it is a capsule collection of five totally different looks. My favourite is Violet, 18501, a chic strapless crepe gown with a matching plain crepe cape – meaning the outfit is perfect for any season. It has the simplest sparkle belt and needs nothing else – a real statement piece!

“Another chic and minimalistic gown is Viviana, style 18506. A light and floaty jersey gown with soft blouson chiffon sleeves. A matching beading to the waist and cuff completes this elegant look.”

68 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Helping stores through another lockdown “I have a great team which has put into place digital brochures, videos and social media content for our stores on our customer retailer portal meaning everything is in place for stores to spend lockdown updating their website and social media to enable them to continue to engage brides.

“With our designer trunk show weekends having to be cancelled in many parts of the UK we are still sending out the samples to stores so they can hold a virtual event over social media or Zoom, or they can simply be creative and use them to make video and social content as they please. The samples are far better off in our stores than sitting in our warehouse unused!”

Subscribe the the Wedding Trader newsletter and keep fully up to date with the latest news, articles, magazines and discussions.

LOVE IS IN THE AIR Steam doesn’t just care for fashion as it smooths creases and restores shape, it actually helps to kill bacteria and remove odours fast – without damaging soft fibres or delicate materials. So be gentle on fabrics, tough on germs, and love what you wear for longer with a Propress Steamer.

Visit or new website www.propress.co.uk

ensure the smooth and safe running of the business, whatever the future had in store, and it meant I could continue the whole operation following every Covid guideline and safety measure to the letter and beyond!

Just before we had to close, the team was right in its stride and closing for a second time was a real body blow.

To say there were tears and an air of utter dejection on our last day together would be putting it mildly...

No more team nights out, social days or baby showers (two of our team returned to work in June with ‘lockdown’ baby bumps). The annual Christmas outing and various other festive celebrations all looking increasingly unlikely.

I had to really stretch to try to catch onsidering that in January, I’d hand sanitisers throughout, spaced out a glimpse of the silver lining that I knew our fitting areas and appointment times, would be there if only I could see it. never even heard the word quarantined gowns, and scrubbed and Then I realised it was right in front of me ‘furlough’, this concept has cleaned between appointments like our all along. It was the team itself. now become my new best lives depended on it... because maybe My wonderful group of ladies, who friend. I feel like the ‘f’ word and I have they actually did! all love each other like family. These truly bonded. It’s just as well really, as, We wore the face masks, we ladies carry the reputation of Bellissima after finally getting the whole team washed and sanitised our hands until like a precious jewel. They strive to back to work, we had to put most of ! they hurt, we kept our distance, we succeed in their jobs and show me a them back on it for a second time this limited customer numbers, retrained, passion and love for our business with year. reconfigured, and for what? To be told every comment, idea, and middle-ofJust at a point when we thought we that, despite all of this, we were having the-night bright-idea text they send. were getting somewhere and when to close again.

These ladies ARE my silver lining. buying confidence was returning, I struggled (and I still do, in truth) For them, I made a pledge that we‘d there we went again. When taking to understand why appointment-only do everything in our power to ensure orders behind glass screens, OCD sectors like ours couldn’t continue to they have whatever they need to cleaning and ‘talking with our eyes’ continue to make the dreams of others was becoming less odd, and projecting operate, assuming there is any merit at all in all the precautions we’d been come true once we reopen. our voices through face masks at a instructed to take. If these measures I haven’t furloughed everyone this considerable distance was becoming don’t work, then why on earth were we time; some of the team are working with easier, we had the sad duty of closing our doors and calling all our customers continuously required to jump through me behind closed doors. We are remerchandising, going over all aspects once again to console, reschedule and so many hoops to comply in the first place? of the operation: training, planning, reassure.

Being someone who usually sees prepping, communicating with our Once it became apparent that no the positives in everything, I don’t mind customers and selling the dream. We’re amount of tiers, local curfews and admitting to a couple of wobbly days on zooming the furloughed members for common sense were going to save us that point. My level of annoyance was chats, and raising a glass to each other from a potential bashing by a second from the comfort and safety of our wave of Covid, I think we all collectively such that I had to give myself a pretty homes. started to dread that chilly shadow cast stern talking to. We had a full diary, our new fittings suite was just ready to This time we refuse to be down; we by the prospect of closing again. open. are celebrating our successes and At Bellissima, just like most other The acquisition of a whole new floor banking those wins. 2020 has taught businesses across the land, we’d done had been my first lockdown project us more than we could ever have all we could, and at great expense, and, going forward, it will allow us to imagined and, through it all, we will rise to ‘Covid-proof’ our premises. We’d stronger and more together than ever. serviced and changed the filters in the operate fittings and changing areas We owe it to ourselves. We owe it to air conditioning, invested in Italian glass completely privately, with each having its own entrance. This was done to our brides. Onwards! screens around our counters, placed

The ‘F ’ word

Laura Daly discovered that silver lining just when she thought it had vanished permanently into the grey clouds

C

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 71

Efficiency And Safety

New technologies such as artificial intelligence (AI) and robotics are being adopted by fashion retailers to combat the worst impacts of the pandemic. Chris Partridge explains

A

I in particular is bringing new power to online shops, allowing shoppers to get their measurements taken remotely so they can choose and even try on gowns in cyberspace.

If they are in search of their dream wedding gown, they will, of course, want to make that appointment to and enjoy the experience that only bricks and mortar bridal retailers can deliver but the number of visits can be cut down substantially if both the style and the fit have been established beforehand.

Once in the shop, brides and their supporter/s can be served at least initially by cute moving robots that can take their details, show them onscreen catalogues and help them

with frequently asked questions. In this industry,they are highly unlikely to replace human sales staff, but they may be able to reduce face-to-face contact to more manageable levels.

And, in the background, technology for sanitisation is becoming available to protect both clients and staff without transforming the shop into a dental surgery with frocks.

AI is the way computers use a mass of data from the real world to learn how to do things. Your smartphone’s camera uses AI to adjust the settings to get the best possible image low light images are now so much better than they used to be because AI systems have ‘learned’ how to extract all the detail needed from dark images to extract detail from the shadows.

Many companies now use AI to take measurements of the human body from photos, so shoppers can upload pictures they take with their phones and the machine will extract all the measurements required to an accuracy rivalling a human with a tape measure. The AI can do this because it looks at the whole body, effectively taking measurements from all over and combining that information to establish the standard measurements needed to order or reserve a garment.

stand in the right place and adopt the right stance to take two shots, one from the front and the other from the side. The system generates a host of measurements within minutes.

3DLOOK claims their measurements are accurate enough to create cutting patterns from, raising the interesting possibility of creating bespoke gowns for clients you have never met in the flesh.

Called Mobile Tailor, the system works entirely in the phone’s browser so no app is required and the client can be reassured the images will be deleted immediately the measurements are generated. It is a subscription service, prices starting at $99 a month for up to 50 measured customers in that month - see 3DLOOK.me for details.

The system can even create an avatar of the customer that can be ‘dressed’ with animated images of stock designs to show exactly what the effect will be even in motion.

Apart from the speed and efficiency, you can tell in minutes what you have in stock for that bride.

Safety in numbers In the shop, safety can be maintained using online booking systems for appointments and queuing software such as Qudini to ensure that only a safe and legal number of customers can enter at one time.

Fast and accurate Another level of protection for US startup 3DLOOK has developed an AI-based system that can measure staff is a combined sanitisation station and temperature sensing camera, but up a shopper in minutes, without that is probably unnecessary while having to run a tape over them. The masks are mandatory indoors. customer goes to your website, and Retail technologists have been props their phone in a vertical position hyping robot sales assistants for some on a table or chair. The system years, but the pandemic has focused communicates with the customer by attention of them as a way of limiting voice to eliminate the need to press face-to-face contact between clients buttons, getting the customer to

72 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

In The Workplace and staff.

One of the latest is Temi, a screen on wheels that can talk and navigate round a room using sensors like those fitted in self-driving cars. The screen has a camera and speakers, and uses Amazon’s personal assistant Alexa to enable users to ask it questions or give it instructions, but the screen can also display the face of a human operator who can be located anywhere - Temi is now appearing in many care homes to enable residents to keep up with friends and family even in isolation.

A Temi could be used in a shop to greet customers, offer them coffee

carried on its shelf, and allow them to browse the catalogue while relaxing on the sofa. It could even take the client’s measurements using 3DLOOK. The customer does not have to touch it at all.

Temi will be available in the UK soon at a cost of around £2,500 - see robotemi.com for more.

Now that it is understood that the main infection route is by airborne water droplets rather than surfaces, it is essential to maximise ventilation in your premises. An added precaution would be to install ultra-violet air purifiers such as the Purelight Flow UV-C. It looks like a fluorescent

light fitting, but contains UV light sources that are lethal to viruses. Air is pumped along the tube and passed through a carbon filter to remove dead viruses as well as bacteria and other microorganisms. Two versions are available, one with an internal UV light that can be left on all the time to purify the air constantly, the other with an external light that bathes the room in UV to kill viruses on surfaces - but that can only be switched on when the place is unoccupied. The Purelight Flow costs £273 from leddirect.co.uk.

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 73

Money Talks GOING LEGAL

P R EPAR I NG FO R BR EXIT – VAT AN D C USTO M S CHANGES As if COVID-19 was not enough for businesses to deal with, the end of the Brexit transition period is rapidly approaching. Richard Taylor, of the Albert Goodman VAT team, explains what to expect and when

W

hile the UK has left the European Union (EU) we are currently in a transitional period that ends on 31 December 2020. From 1 January 2021 the UK will operate a full external border, and controls will be placed on the movement of goods.

The procedures for goods moving to or from the EU will be similar to those currently in place for movements between the UK and the rest of world.

Businesses currently moving goods to or from non-EU countries should be familiar with what will be required. For businesses that have only ever dealt with the EU, the changes may require more consideration and preparation.

For imports from the EU the changes will occur in three phases.

From January 2021: • Customs declarations will be required for controlled goods (those

goods that need to a license to be imported such as alcohol and tobacco) • For other goods a declaration will also be required but there will normally be scope to defer them, and the payment of any duty, for up to six months • Import VAT will be payable on any standard or reduced rated goods being imported into the UK from the EU From 1 April 2021: Products of animal origin such as meat, pet food, milk or egg products and regulated plant products will need pre-notification to Customs and relevant health documentation From 1 July 2021: • Customs declarations will be needed at the point of importation for all goods

74 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Customs Declarations for exports to the EU will also be required from 1 January 2021. Evidence to show goods meet the EU import requirements may be required if the goods are to be admitted into the EU, this could include Export Health Certificates.

This will be true regardless of the outcome of negotiations and whether the UK and the EU conclude a Free Trade Agreement (FTA). If there is no FTA, duty may be payable on goods moving between the UK and EU. The way import VAT is accounted for by VAT-registered businesses on imports is also changing from 1 January 2021. The new system is called Postponed VAT Accounting (PVA). Rather than paying import VAT when the goods arrive and reclaiming the VAT through the VAT return – often months later – the import VAT is paid and reclaimed (subject to the normal

Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, new wedding personal when running your business industry magazine It’s a hard ask to be a leader and a friend, isn’t it?

Avoid blurring the professional and the

As with your customers, you should always avoid

extreme crossing over of the two;

neither too bossy a boss, nor best

Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE ELEVEN • DECEMBER ’18

Survivial of the fittest WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? OPINIONS, ADVICE AND HARD-HITTING FACTS

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE TWELVE • JANUARY ’19

Dressing with dash

PROU SUPPO DLY RTING BRITISH BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

IS IT TIME TO RETHINK YOUR BUSINESS STRATEGY?

MEET ANNY LIN AND HER UNIQUE MIX OF FASHION FLAVOURS

Repeat performance

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION MAKING THE MOST OF WHERE YOU ARE

More winners HAT TRICKS OUR PICK OF CROWNING GLORIES

PROU SUPPO DLY

RTING BRITISH BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

BLOG IT LEARN FROM THE ABSOLUTE BEST

HAIR VINES CHECK OUT OUR FAVOURITES

OUR GUIDE TO THE PRETTIEST PROM FROCKS

Letter from America

New York

DISCUSSION: SHOULD YOU SHOW PRICES ON YOUR WEBSITE?

GET READY TO BUY THE BEST – WE TELL YOU WHERE AND WHEN

BEST SELLERS CHOSEN BY THE BEST

WHAT THE LATEST BUDGET MEANS TO YOUR BUSINESS

THE VALUE OF HAVING BIG NAMES ON BOARD

VALENTINE’S DAY WILL IT DELIVER A WAVE OF NEW BRIDES?

Show business

DOING IT ABROAD THE DESTNATIONS THAT ARE IN DEMAND

SAYING “I DO” AGAIN AND AGAIN JEWELLED HEELS...

SIX OF THE ABSOLUTE SPARKLING BEST

FAMOUS FACES

ISSUE THIRTEEN • FEBRUARY ’19

Assessment

PETER GRIMES FROM VOWS JOINS THE WT TEAM

TraderTrader Trader WT11_Cover 1aa SR.indd 1

THE STARS AND THE SHOW STOPPERS

WEDDING

06/11/2018 09:56

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WT12_Cover 5aa.indd 1

WEDDING

ISSUE 14 • MARCH/APRILWEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM ’19

Showtime BIG AND BOLD OR EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE... WHICH SHOW IS FOR YOU?

Justin & Savannah

INTRODUCING THE WHAT THE PERFECT COUPLE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS CAN DO FOR THEIR MEMBERS

DESIGNER SPEAK THE BRITPACK TALK ABOUT FORTHCOMING TRENDS

David’s Bridal

OH KNICKERS! WHAT GOES UNDER THAT BEAUTIFUL DRESS

ISSUE SIX • JULY ‘18

May I have a discount?

ADDING EXTRAS TO YOUR OFFERING THAT WILL PULL IN NEW BUSINESS

NOW IS THE TIME TO SAY NO

TAKING STOCK WANT IT QUICK? WE’VE FOUND THOSE WHO CAN DELIVER

BUILDING A LUXURY BRAND FIRST, GET YOUR PRIORITIES IN PLACE

Harrogate

SNEAK PEEK AT THE NEWEST TRENDS

Get togethers

ENTER THE NEW-AGE BOYS’ ZONE

Jenny Packham

07/01/2019 21:39

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

BLUSHING BRIDES OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE PINKS

GROOM SERVICE

BREXIT THE POSSIBLE POSITIVES FOR BRIDAL

WT13_Cover 4aa 1SR.indd 1

PROUDLY SUPPORTIN BRITISH G BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

WINNERS! WHAT IT FELT LIKE ON THE BIG NIGHT

WILL ITS REPRIEVE HURT THE INDUSTRY?

04/12/2018 10:33

ISSUE TEN • NOVEMBER ’18

Changing the game plan

With mic in hand

WORKING WITH OTHER SERVICE SUPPLIERS

CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO ON BEING A ROYAL COMMENTATOR

Trader Trader Trader

AND WORKING WITH DESSY

WEDDING

WT14_Cover 4aa SR2.indd 1

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SEEING RED

PROUDLY SUPPORTIN BRITISH G BRIDALWEA RETAILERS R

Our pick of the hot new numbers that everyone will want

Private i A BIG BITE OF APPLE SECURITY

JAMES BOND...

KILLER GOOD LOOKS

White Gallery preview time

WT6_Cover 4aa.indd 1

WEDDING

05/03/2019 WT10 Cover 15:51 3aa.indd 1

ISSUE 19 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Doing something different RETAILERS MAKING THEIR MARK

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SHARING OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES, VISIONS OF THE FUTURE

New chapters STARTING OVER IN THE BRIDAL BUSINESS

Brand awareness THE LABELS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

11/06/2018 10:43

WEDDING

09/10/2018 13:40

ISSUE 20 • MARCH/APRIL ’20

I t’s buying time WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE BIG SHOWS

PROUDLY SUPPORT BRITISHING BRIDALW EAR RETAILERS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

OPINIONS

RETAILERS’ SHARED FEELINGS, FEARS AND FORWARD THINKING

Well trained

GETTING READY FOR OPEN DOORS

ISSUE 21 • MAY/JUNE ’20

Coming together NOW WE ARE WORKING AS ONE

PROUDLY SUPPORT BRITISHING BRIDALW EAR RETAILERS

Looking ahead

WHAT THE TOP WEDDING PLANNERS ARE EXPECTING

THE NEW ‘NORM’ WHAT LIES IN STORE?

CHARGEBACKS...

A WORD OF WARNING

BREXIT OKAY, SO WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

WT19_Cover 3aa JP.indd 1

07/01/2020 18:47

WT20_cover 3aa JP.indd 1

02/03/2020 16:14

WT21_Cover 1aa 1sr JP.indd 1

17/05/2020 14:10

TO WOR K WIT H U S, CONTACT:

rules) at the same time through the VAT return. PVA is compulsory where Customs Declarations are deferred but is optional for other imports. It will provide significant cashflow benefits so is worth considering.

There will be a new online system which will detail the import VAT due to be accounted for through the VAT return.

For non-VAT registered businesses who have to pay import VAT, using a Duty Deferment Account will allow them to pay any import VAT monthly rather than at the time of import. This may provide some cashflow benefits.

The Duty Deferment Account will also allow any business to pay import duty on a monthly basis rather than for each individual import.

There are some important steps to take to ensure your business is prepared for Brexit.

• Make sure you have an EORI

• Consider who will submit customs entries • If using a freight forwarder or customs agent, discuss the changes with them • Discuss the changes with EU suppliers or customers • Consider applying for a Duty Deferment Account If you are concerned about the impact of the new rules on your business, please get in touch to discuss this matter further.

Email your business finance questions to susi@rogol-goodkind.com for inclusion in the first available issue of Wedding Trader. If you’d like to consult directly with Michael Cahill for professional advice or regarding postBrexit regulations that might affect your business, email michael.cahill@ albertgoodman.co.uk

Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 0785 558 7219

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together.

Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational!

Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe W ED D I N GTRAD ERMAG.CO M

N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 75

D D Y F ! w e e v n i l e s h i T e t i s b e w

Find your en dream dress th r track down yout nearest stockis

F I ND YOUR

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk

“I am finding the swings and roundabouts the hardest things to cope with right now. I appreciate that one shouldn’t moan because we are all in the same boat and, quite frankly, terrified for what the future will bring. I had no choice but to part company with some staff and I miss them hugely – after all we have been together five and sometimes six days week for years and shared our own ups and downs through changing relationships, family health worries etc etc etc. I know

“Being able to read Trader online has been great and has meant I can pick up on news and advice wherever I am (for that read anywhere but in the shop!). I think the fact that you are really seeking views rather than pushing collections we simply can’t buy right now, shows your own passion for this industry of ours. Please keep it up, even if you have to **** out the occasional rant, which I am sure you must get. ”

we will come through this but I also have to accept that we will emerge as different individuals in a very different world. Right now, though, being able to share thoughts and feelings ALLURE BRIDALS

and concerns and fears with others in the same situation in the same industry does ease a bit of the pain. Sorry if I sound melodramatic, I set out here to say thank you to colleagues for being there and being ready for a conversation at any time. Seeing familiar faces at Milton Keynes and at those Harrogate hotel presentations did make things seem ‘normal’ for a while.”

“I’m sure you’ve heard this from others, but thank you for giving us a

...and finally Your views are so much appreciated, not just by us at Wedding Trader, but by our thousands of readers who want to share

“I am not sure how a world without big shows will pan out for us – they have always been core to our working world – but we need to accept and adjust to a very different way of shopping for new collections and buying now. What will be hard for me if 2021 is trade show free, is not being able to plan to see familiar faces and exchanging gossip over a glass of bubbly. So, who’d be interested in a regular Zoom session - so long as we allow everyone to get a word in, it could be great fun... and valuable. ”

place to exchange views.

Your series of ‘letters to...’ in the last issue really inspired me to think positively and also to see that there are times when you have to be demanding.”

“I think it is time we put ourselves in our brides’ position. To have so many unrealised dreams and so many disappointments, is heart-breaking. We can rework our business strategies, rethink our needs and wants, toss the towel in if we’ve had enough. But these poor girls have no option other than to wait for change that may be a long time in the coming.”

78 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Glamour since 1991 Poirier is specialized in bridal bodywear and accessories for the contemporary bride.

By focusing only on using the best designs and materials our mission is to make our brides glamorous and beautiful.

Enjoy the best bridal accessories on your journey of love.

The one-stop wedding shop including petticoats, veils, lingerie, head pieces, tiaras, jewellery and much, much more.

www.jupon.com

01753622922 gary@jupon.com @jupon.petticoats

@jupon_petticoats

@juponpetticoats

F IND YOUR

DREAM DRESS Use our handy tool to search through 1000’s of dresses online for all the bridal party, then click to find your nearest stockist!

www.findyourdreamdress.co.uk

Th we e ne bs w ite FY is DD liv e!

Find your en dream dress th r track down yout nearest stockis