Wedding Trader - issue 28

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Y UDLING O R P ORT H P P U IS S BRITLWEAR A BRIDTAILERS RE

ISSUE 28 MARCH/APRIL 22

What makes a winner?

RETAILERS AND THEIR TROPHIES

Short and sweet LITTLE DRESSES WITH BIG APPEAL

Going legal NEED-TO-KNOWS IF YOU ARE A TENANT

Get ready to shop IT’S THE START OF THE NEW SEASON

ENZOANI.COM

Contents 11

TA L KING P OINT News worth knowing

70

M O DECA Showing off in Northern Ireland

14

F I RST P E R SON Laura Daly on lessons learned

72

GLITTER GOES TO THE HEAD Crystal Couture moves up

20

SECOND OPINION Sue Lovell talks about sharing

74

LU S H L AY E R S How Freda Bennet gives one gown two or three different looks

22

EL L IE’S P LACE Get your ROI sorted before you shop 76

26

MEE T KATE FEAR NL E Y Her collection will wow you

30

SERIOUS SUP P ORT That’s what the RBA offers newbies

32

L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA Pete Grimes sees growth

36

ON BEING A W INNE R What impresses awards judges

54

EUROP EAN BRIDAL WE E K See names your won’t find elsewhere

56

YOUR COUTURE BR IDAL Richard Lill’s newest venture

62

SHO RT STORIES Peta Hunt picks her favourite little numbers to show off the shoes

M AM A M IA Veromia is now synonymous with occasionwear... and it’s all gorgeous

80

T EC HNO Smartphone photography produces pro results every time

82

T RAINING More guidance from Helena Cotter

84

PO ST IT NOT ES Expert advice of getting your social media to work hard for you

86

L EGAL Two key areas every business owner needs to understand – fashion law meets technology, and Covid rent ‘breathers’ that are coming to an end

92

AND FINAL LY… You talk, we listen, and then we share

KATE FEARNLEY

THE LITTLE PEARL

MARCH/APRIL 2022 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 3

RO M A N T I C A Please contact sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information about becoming a stockist. www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

VISIT US ON STAND 300

FredaBennet hello@fredabennet.co.uk | www.fredabennet.co.uk |

fredabennet | 01322 537741

Ed’s Letter

Contact us

It’s show business time! So much to look forward to and so much to see, from London Bridal Fashion Week at Excel, which incorporates White Gallery London, to European Bridal Week in Messe Essen where some international brands will be unveiling their new offering for the first time, to the delicious array of surprises that awaits in Barcelona.

We’ve been talking to buyers across the country and there is no question about raised spirits and an eagerness to move on, especially after what was, for some, a difficult start to the year. What we are finding is that the level of advice and inspired thinking that has become an essential ingredient in the Wedding Trader mix, is so much appreciated – there’s nothing as good as the views of others in the same business sector, to clarify your own thoughts. Suggestion and criticism from your contemporaries has real value. A perfect example in this issue is detail of the new RBA scheme, which makes top-level experience available to industry newcomers, round the clock. Read about the Associates programme on page 30 – knowing support is there really does build confidence.

And we’ve been talking to the retailers who picked up the regional winner titles in this year’s Wedding Industry Awards, and are sharing the key points in their entry forms that the judging panel felt made them stand out, page 36 is where to head to get ideas for next time you want to put yourself and your business forward.

Good reading... good shopping at the shows... and a good season ahead.

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Deputy Editor Jade Pepperell jade@meanttobemedia.com

Sales Manager Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com

Art Director Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com @WeddingTraderUK @WeddingTraderMag @weddingtrader

weddingtradermag.com

Trader WEDDING

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND Andy Allen Art Director “The legal advice from the experts at Fox Williams really keeps you on your toes. NFTs? Me neither!” (p86) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding “Short and sweet is very much a current theme, especially for small, intimate weddings.” (p62) Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales “It’s not surprising that designer Kate Fearnley is picking up accolades. I love her sense of individual style.” (p26)

Cover image: We adore Laney from Beloved by Casablanca

Wedding Trader is published by: Meant To Be Media Ltd, 18 Taylors Lane, London SE26 6QL. Tel: 0785 558 7219 weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish:

MARCH/APRIL 2022 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7

To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu

NOW AVAILABLE ON

ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

TALKING POINT More news – and new products that make the wedding world so special

WHITE GALLERY SPECIAL Amy Mair’s avant garde ‘Inspired By’ collection introduces a series of textured textiles to bridal couture – romantic and luxurious pieces that brides will love at first sight. Check out www.amymaircouture. co.uk and be inspired! See it at White Gallery London, 20-22 March at Excel.

NEW DATES FOR ROME BRIDAL WEEK The fourth edition of Italy’s lush, intimate show at Fiera di Roma, will take place 9-11 April. For exhibitor details – expect more than 360 collections – and registration, visit www.romebridalweek.it M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 11

RBA: New Intiative The industry’s key association, the RBA, has launched a marvellous programme in which support is available round the clock for associate members who can benefit from the countless years of experience and expertise of the Committee. Read about it on page 26. If you are new to bridal retailing, this could be your road to success.

GOING FOR GOLD American artistic gymnast, Olympic gold medallist Simone Biles, considered one of the greatest gymnasts of all time, said yes to the dress(es) at the Galia Lahav flagship store in Los Angeles. The world champion is a real beauty... so are the gowns she has chosen.

COVER STORY Elbeth Gillis has produced a skillfully curated set of coverups that add a new dimension to a look, and also a bit of warmth when needed. Little cardigans, cropped sweaters and lace-edged tulle capes are just part of the story. See more at www.elbethgillis.com 12 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL

HEN NIGHTS Point your brides and their friends in the direction of ‘night’, the online luxury

A stunning collection

nightwear collection of

from Spanish

beautiful satin sleepwear

occasionwear house

– more like partywear,

Eva Rubbini, will be

actually - designed and

showcased at European

made in the UK, in sizes

Bridal Week, 30 April-2

6 to 28. Your customers

May, in Messe Essen.

will thank you for the

See page 64 for more

suggestion.

information.

www.night-store.co.uk

Wettest Dates For A Wedding This Year

Puppy Love According to jewellers Steven Stone, there has been a big increase in requests for luxury dog tags.

They surveyed 1,000 pet owners from across the UK, and discovered that a staggering one in three plan to have their

dogs at their wedding, with one in four admitting that they will be training their pooch to be the ring bearer on the big day.

Interestingly, 15% of people surveyed said they would have their cats present, too!

Dress up possibilities ahead?

Analysing 89 years’ worth of Met office data, simplybe.co.uk has calculated what lies ahead. It appears that the UK’s wettest days in 2022 are predicted as: 29 March – 3.41mm rainfall 15 August – 3.76mm 11 November – 5.01mm 7 December – 4.95mm Perhaps you should consider stocking a few ‘just in case’ numbers. Check out the bridal umbrella selection at www.jollybrolly.co.uk

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 13

First Person Laura Daly has learned many a lesson in the past 21 years, and shares them with those who are planning to open a bridal shop. This is advice from the top...

I

t was June 2001. I had just returned to the UK after many years of travelling and working abroad. Somehow, armed only with huge enthusiasm, a burning desire to change the world, and no business knowledge whatsoever, I managed to open a bridal shop.

I’m pretty happy with how my baby Bellissima has blossomed in these past 21 years. She’s developed a personality and identity that is very much her own, and of which I’m immensely proud.

Not a day goes past that I don’t wonder how on earth I’ve managed

to go from ‘Mrs did not have a clue’, to multi-award-winning retailer, and quite honestly, I’m still not sure.

I do know I’ve learned a LOT on my journey and am happy to share some of the gems I’ve picked up along the way. If you’re a ‘newbie’ take heed, and if you’re a fellow ‘old timer’ then I’m high-fiving you from here, because seriously, there’s no handbook for bridal retailing, we’ve probably all learned the following at the cost of our sanity!

1 You need more money than you think. Quite apart from the fixed costs of running your business,

14 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

there’s the problem of stock, and discontinued lists. You need to be very strict indeed with yourself to not overspend.

Customers’ dresses will also need paying for when they come in – don’t blow the deposits on handbags or holidays. Prepare for the troughs and the peaks equally – the toughest times will come a few years into your trading. Remember, anyone can open a bridal shop, but not everyone can keep paying the bills.

2 Trust your gut and believe in your vision. You are really going to have to re-invent the wheel to make an impression on a very saturated market, so you need to do YOU. Unless by some weird quirk of fate you’ve been forced to open a bridal shop against your will, you’ve started your business because you think you have something new to offer. Your vision and your gut feeling about what will work is what will drive you forward. Don’t be swayed at the last minute by someone else’s opinion, especially if that opinion is negative, and expressed to make you doubt yourself, when the way ahead is so clear to you. Don’t get caught up in what your competition are doing. Do your own thing always.

3 You’re only as good as the last customer you served. Bad news travels fast. Us humans are programmed to home in on the smallest bad thing that happens to us, whilst largely ignoring or taking for granted the sea of goodness and niceness that we swim in most of the time. The same is true for customers.

The last person leaving your shop is just as important as the thousands that may have left over the years, because if that last bride has something negative to say or post about your business, it’s literally the first thing that your next bride will see or hear.

4 Only buy what you honestly like.

Given that your business reflects you – your personality and your vision – you absolutely need to ensure that your rail stock follows suit. I don’t mean not to liking something for yourself, maybe a certain style that you know wouldn’t look good on you, but you should still be able to appreciate and like all your gowns for what they are, and understand how they will enhance your boutique and gel with the type of

bride you wish to attract.

5 Get help with the things you’re not good at. I struggle with numbers.

I’m a creative through and through. I see in pictures and colours, and I feel things that I can make happen. For me the huge stroke of luck was that my husband and business partner is my complete opposite in that department, and has been the firewall between me and commercial suicide on more than one occasion.

I’m also not great at actually ‘doing’ social media, or websites, or anything vaguely practical. I can see what I want, I know what I want – but I know I have to get other people to do it. Please understand that what you can’t do shouldn’t be seen as a weakness – it’s a strength to know what you can’t do, and more professional to get help with it!

6 Approach everything you do with love. Everything. Especially the hard bits, especially the ‘difficult’ people and the tricky situations. For me, this has been probably one of the hardest things to take on board.

Recognising my impatience with

those who don’t have my vision, or are slow to understand my point, or who dislike me, and realising that all I must do is show them love and walk away, has been a very empowering life lesson for me. I hope it will be for you, too.

7 Never think you’ve seen it all.

However crazy a customer might be, however outlandish a request you might have, in time something will come along and beat it. Family rows, fainting brides, no knickers, puking children, dresses that magically come apart at the seams, items that disappear (once in the customer’s hands) only to reappear magically and it still be your fault, weight gain, loss, pregnancy and break ups that will ultimately be blamed on you because it couldn’t possibly be anyone else’s fault… dreadful unexplained smells, babies being changed in the middle of the fitting area, drunk relatives rocking up to ‘help’ the bride pick her dress… floods, plagues, insects… eventually they will all come your way, and much more!

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 15

8 Lead by example always. This is especially true if you employ anyone.

Pull the late hours, do the graft, clean the toilets, do everything you can to get your hands dirty. If you want a strong work ethic amongst your employees, then the easiest and most authentic way is to demonstrate that you value what they do, and that you understand what it is you’re asking them to because you’ve done it as well. Always thank and reward a good job done.

9 You are allowed to switch off. The bigger the monster, the bigger the appetite. Unless you build in systems that will help you switch off from your business, you will burn out in no time. This may be making a firm decision not to respond to social media outside opening hours, or making sure you take time off and trusting staff to run the shop on your absence. If you work on your own, consider working appointment only and not opening every day. Don’t be a slave to your monster – tame it and it will work for you!

10 Never burst the bridal bubble.

Ever. Brides live in a bubble – even the ones that say they don’t – they

just don’t realise it. DO NOT go anywhere near anything that implies your customer has put on weight, looks fat, looks skinny, can’t afford something, needs to save money on something or doesn’t suit a colour or style that she loves. The word NO should be used as infrequently as possible, your job is to lead her to a place of safety and love; you can’t control anything about her wedding other than your words and your actions and how she interacts with her dress.

11 Remember, your brides stay the same age. It’s you that gets older.

This was a hard one for me – I was a lot younger 21 years ago, and much nearer the average age of our brides I’ve gone from qualifying for big sister status to being Mum. and with that increased age gap also comes the realisation that what is new for this season’s bride is old hat for me!

When buying, I do now listen to the feedback of our younger stylists – something I wouldn’t have considered before. It’s a constant learning curve, and as we can’t be financially

16 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

successful without a commercial rack of dresses, I’ll bite my lip and buy that old, I mean new, style!

12 Don’t presume anyone knows anything. Explain and teach all the time – everyone thinks they know everything, but do they really?

Probably not… they just have their own take on everything and their own truth, which probably won’t be the same as yours. Right from your first touchpoint with your customer, you will need to take the time to teach and explain yourself, your business, your ethos. You need to be the leader, and ensure that your customers understand what to expect, how you will deliver your services and goods and how that will affect them going forward. If you have any doubt about their understanding, then explain again. A customer armed with the correct knowledge right from the start, will be your best, happiest customer who will also be your best advocate. That’s how you build a truly successful business, one solid happy customer at a time! WT

ELYSEEBRIDAL.COM

w w w. r o m a n t i c a o f d e v o n . c o . u k / j e n n i f e r w r e n

Modern, glamorous and unforgettable... Let us introduce you to the AW 22 collection from Pure Bridal, where all gowns retail below £999. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.

Have you noticed how two faced we can be in this industry, asks Sue Lovell

Second Opinion

Every day, at some point, I see my It’s 45 minutes before I see a parents. Oh my lovely dad, my oldest human, then I pick up my littlest DNA DNA connection. I’m learning to watch connection and we get to watch the the sunsets together with gratitude of sunrise together. We say goodbye to what’s been, rather than hope. the dark, and hello to the day. He’s Every day we say goodbye to the excited for what’s to come, and I’m so ’ve always known it, but I’ve glad I get to share in his day. We get to day, and wait to see what the darkness noticed it a lot more in recent brings. The sunshine is leaving him, see the black fields turned to brilliant months. I don’t know if it’s more some days it’s just dark, but then prevalent in this industry, because white as we count the thousands of swans; we wish the horses in the fields briefly it’s back. Some days he’s joyful, we are more female led, or I’m just a good morning and play a gruesome but others I don’t recognise him, my noticing it more because I interact lovely dad, the stranger. I try not to game of ‘guess the roadkill’. with women more. But either way, mourn what I’m losing, and focus We get home around 8:30 and we it’s true; we are so two faced, and I on what was and what’s left; it just need to remind myself that both faces dance, we sing, we play Twister. Our hurts, a lot. It’s a hard lesson, it’s are blooming beautiful, and so brutal, but there’s always a smile strong, and both deserve to be We can have struggles and somewhere. shown. failings, but can still celebrate the My mum. Her brave face is So I’m showing mine, sharing fearless, always love, she always way more than I should, because successes, and not feel we have to has hope. She leads, I follow, in in a world of incredible women, it’s okay to not be superwoman. hide the downright crappy parts awe. I’ve had to make decisions recently that have left me It’s okay to not be successful broken. I feel I’ve betrayed rather than and perfect in every aspect of life. It’s day is filled with laughter and we protected, and no matter how many educate each other. He educates me okay to be ordinary and average. We times I’m told I’ve done the right thing, on the vital role Octonauts played in can have struggles and failings, but I know in my heart I have failed my can still celebrate the successes, and saving a whale from the volcano, and biggest supporter. I should have done not feel we have to hide the downright reminds me that we need to work together to solve problems. I regularly more, I still can find a way to make this crappy parts. all okay. This really hurts. teach him valuable health and safety On my day off from bridal, I leave And in the middle, I run my lessons. This week’s life lesson was home at 6am and travel an hour business. I welcome my brides through the dark to get to my own Ray that a coat hanger in the mouth of light. These fen roads are brutal, no doesn’t turn into a propeller when you through my doors, and I’m excited for what each one is about to find in a cats eyes or white Iines here. We don’t spin it – it just hurts a lot! It’s a hard dress. Her confidence, her beauty, her lesson we’ve all had to learn, but I have street lights, as we don’t have power. The positivity and the potential, know he’ll find another way to fly. many streets, just tracks in places.

I

20 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

all wrapped up in satin and lace.

Life is so much more than what we do to earn a wage, yet somehow we place so much value, our identity even, on the businesses we run, rather than the people we actually are. And for so many of us, shining brightly, being the guiding hand that knows the dress, knows the designer, knows what will contain all of her radiance and allow her to shine – well, we know that we put everything we have into her moment with us. That public face, the one that is fearless and positive, that inspires confidence and comfort – that face comes from the heart, it puts to the side our fears and only lets all the love and joy we have ever experienced come out. The other stuff stays hidden.

I know that there are absolute legends in this industry, who we all look up to and admire, and who have it all. They have got every aspect of this industry sussed, they are fearless, successful and inspirational, and they surely must live charmed lives.

But, in amongst the glamour, awards, success and fabulousness of their existence, they still pop a message over to say “I know exactly how you are feeling, because I’m going through this, too”, or “I’ve been there, call me.”

There are also power houses –

women who are facing more struggles than I can possibly imagine, who I know have mountains to climb and who have been hurt and let down, and feel utterly broken. Who may be physically or mentally bashed, but are fighting their way back, and they still shine so brightly, not for themselves, but for others. They don’t want to worry others, so they sparkle in public, but their light fades at home alone, and yet still they FaceTime me to say ‘hey lovely, how’s your day?’.

It’s okay to have two faces. It’s okay to show the world the positive, everything-is-coming-up-roses face, show the love, the hope and the strength. But it’s also okay to show the right people that sometimes parts of the day are a little bit pooh. Because those people can give a hug and share that they’ve been there too, they may be there right now, and they may not be able to offer anything more tangible than a virtual hug, but that may be all you need to keep going.

By sharing and being open about our struggles, we allow others to hope and show that no one’s life is really 100% perfect. We all have parts of our lives that aren’t pretty, but that’s fine…. where would the fun be in living if it was all so easy?

What amazes me about so many of us, is we may meet up once or

twice a year, or we may never meet at all, but there’s always a friend on the other end of the phone, or pinging you a message when you need it most. Some of my bridal friends are so supportive, so wise and generous with their knowledge, and some I know will lay with me in the bath, 200 miles away apart, and discuss things that only two lunatics who are completely safe and comfortable with, would ever say out loud.

We have two faces, businesses owners and sisters. It’s only when we know that perfection is only a perception, and when supportive, positive women, make the mundane look fun, the difficult a bit easier, and when we achieve moments of greatness, they are here to say ‘well done’, that we know we aren’t alone.

So a massive congratulations to those winning industry awards; I’ve loved seeing all the excited posts sharing the news. A huge congratulations to everyone who makes a difference, who takes the time to ensure someone else’s buttons shine. And if you are having a week like I am, and perhaps your heart hurts a little bit too, know that a coat hanger in the mouth won’t make you fly, but there are a million other small moments every day that will. You just have to be open to them. WT

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 21

THE B OT TOM LINE HERE I S . . .

THE B OT TOM LINE As the buying season starts revving up, and the big exhibitions are beckoning, take time before you shop to assess those vital figures, says Ellie Sanderson are back.

Now is the perfect time to prepare and give some serious thought on your returns from last year’s investments by label. It’s been a crazy trading period since this time last year and buying without evaluating your Return on Investment (ROI) is commercial suicide.

I have been speaking to well over a dozen UK retailers during the past week, and I got a real sense of caution about buying.

We are definitely out of sync with the usual buying timelines, which has meant that some collections have just been delivered or are still being delivered (right now, as I type), and buying again feels too t’s so exciting now that we can start planning what to purchase for soon for some labels. We always need at least six months to work with the year ahead. It really does feel a collection before we can move onto like we’ve returned to normal at the next one, otherwise we end up last. I will be attending every buying show this year, not only to buy product buying twice in one year.

That said, the bottom line here is but to see like-minded people and the bottom line, and evaluating your network. It’s been way too long and I ROI will help you see where these can’t wait. issues exist and help you to spend Whether you are buying at the your cash appropriately.

LBFW in March in London, April in I have written about ROI many Barcelona or later in June for UK designers, it is certainly a time to crack times over the years, and last week I was asked by one of the businesses I open a bottle and celebrate that we

I

22 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

coach (I do that in my spare time!) to remind them how to work this out. So I thought it would be good to share again.

Interestingly enough, despite this client knowing her stock and sales very well, we identified a label that frankly was an emotional buy and was not returning at all.

So, even if you think you know exactly which labels are returning, it can be a real game changer calculating this.

How to work it out There are a number of ways to calculate your ROI but essentially the number your are looking for is how many repeat sales you are getting from a dress you’ve invested in.

Here is a short overview of what ROI is, and how to calculate it, and why you should bother.

Definition of ROI Return on investment is a business performance measure that is used to financially evaluate the efficiency of any investment. This can be used to evaluate many things in business but I am talking specifically about stock in this example.

THE FORMULA TO CALCULATE YOUR RETURN ON INVESTMENT Example one Take the return from your investment, say £50,000 (sales income) Minus the cost of that investment, eg £10,000 (stock purchase cost) Divide the nett figure by the cost of the investment – £40,000 divided by £10,000 (stock purchase cost) Expressed as a ratio that is a x 4 return Put another way…

Return from investment from Label A – the cost of that stock investment £50,000 minus £10,000 equals £40,000 Cost of investment = £10,000 (40/10 = 4) Example two Take the return from your investment, for eg £150,000 (sales income) Minus the cost of that investment, at £15,000 (stock purchase cost) Divide the nett figure by the cost of the investment – £135,000 divided by £15,000 (stock purchase cost) Expressed as a ratio = x 9 return Or… Return from investment from Label B - the cost of that stock investment) £150,000 minus £15,000 equals £135,000 Cost of investment = £15,000 ( 135/15 = x9 )

So what is a good ROI ?

We each must decide what our ROI limits are. For me, it is x 6, but I have one label that returns in excess of 10, and another that was 4 I no longer work with.

If you find yourself buying a label that doesn’t even cover the previous year’s sales you are basically working for nothing.

Stepping away from a label that Other things to add into the ROI mix It is vital to remember the other factors offers poor ROI, poor marketing support or social clout will free up that make a label a great success in valuable rail space also for new your business. upcoming labels. It’s a positive thing, For example, it is important to assess and I always say that you should only the following: drop a label if you are happy for your – Do they generate social media biggest competitor to pick it up. interest for themselves and do they I am also a firm believer that too promote your business relationship? many labels will lead to lower ROI, – Do they promote and drive footfall which is poor commercially for you, for designer days/trunk shows? and for your suppliers.

– Do they generate positive website There is no question about it, the traffic for you? bottom line is the bottom line. Remove A label should be evaluated on Return the emotion and focus on the facts.

Happy spending and happy but also on the above to complete calculating your ROI. the picture. Financially, a label may add value as a footfall driver, known as a lost leader, but to be honest, in my books they would have to deliver heavily on that to overtake poor ROI. Calculating your sales and returns for last year, before you head off buying, should be one of the most important elements of your planning.

It gives you a clear, unemotional picture of performance within your business by label. You never know, you may be surprised with the results but you can’t argue with the numbers.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 23

Introducing the stunning Martin Thornburg collection from the Mon Cheri Bridals group.

Exhibiting at Bridal Week London, for more information on any of the collections and to enquire about becoming a stockist, please email enquiries@moncheribridals.com or ring 01823 674 905.

www.martinthornburg.com

WEDD I N G TRAD E R SHOWCASE

Kate Fearnley

Going to White Gallery London? Of course you are. Do not miss out on the collection from designer Kate Fearnley, multi-award winner and champion of style

T

he Kate Fearnley label was established 20 years ago, starting life as an occasionwear collection stocked in independent fashion boutiques, through ASOS, and at Selfridges, as well as in the brand’s own atelier. When Kate introduced a bespoke service, brides who wanted something different for their wedding were fast to make contact.

Winning the Wedding Designer of the Year title in the 2019 and 2020 Wedding Industry Awards, it was a natural progression for the mega-talented designer to develop a fashion-forward bridal range, which launched at Harrogate Bridal Show last March.

At White Gallery London, Kate hopes to broaden her network of elite stockists in the UK and abroad. And visitors to the show cannot help but be enchanted with the collection – Awaken – which features beautiful vintage-inspired soft laces, feathers, and petal 3D embroidery with subtle sparkle. Silhouettes include full circular skirts with pockets, and elegant fitted fishtails in a luxury double-lined crepe satin.

Kate’s style is very much her own: her gowns, aimed at the confident, contemporary bride, are relaxed yet luxurious, with movement, freedom, and comfort at the forefront of every design. All dresses include an element of layering and texture with a unique design twist, and everything is handmade and hand-embroidered in-house.

Retail prices go from £2,500 to £3,250, and the size range is 8-18. See Kate’s new collection at White Gallery London, 20-22 March, at Excel.

Kate Fearnley +44 1642 638477 / www.katefearnley.com

26 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

Coco

Dove

Juliet

Orchid

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 27

Luna

Liberty

Star Ivory 28 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

2404

The Road To Success Is Paved With Support RBA Committee member, Alison Parish of Aurora Bride, talks through the all-new Associate scheme from the key industry association

I

know that thanks to COVID, it’s been an uncertain start to 2022, so I won’t make you read a miserable article except to say that you need the RBA… or you are doomed!

Only joking… but let me fill you in on the reasons why you – your business that is – need the RBA in your life.

UK business statistics show that up to 20% of new businesses fail within their first two years, that 45% fail within their first five years, with a staggering 65% failing within their first ten years of trading. Reading that misery, it’s hard to see how anyone makes it, but I’ll tell you who does – RBA members.

If you delve further into the stats and read ‘experts’ reasons for those failures, quite often you are looking at a lack of support, marketing focus, and keeping up with growth and trends.

During a recent RBA Committee meeting we sat down and discussed the need for our industry as a whole to rise up – it has to stop being all about the individual. If we all excel at what we do, confidence in the market and industry is resumed. All we strong, independent retailers need to be pulling this industry back to fighting weight, knocking these brides out with our excellent customer service skills, supreme marketing and branding, as well as just generally being champions of our worlds.

What’s good for us as retailers is good for the industry as a whole. We need a strong bridal store reputation in this country; that will pull us all together, making us stronger, and lead to a more powerful voice for the independent bridal boutique boss!

With that in mind and reviewing our policies, we – the RBA Committee – decided we want to help you. Are you an independent retailer who has been trading for between one and five years? If so, we want to help you avoid those pitfalls that hit 65% of UK businesses.

A new RBA offering The ever-growing and learning RBA is now introducing an Associate accreditation that offers HR help,

30 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

legal expertise, health and safety documentation, as well as mentors from the Executive Committee on hand to answer and help with any questions you might have. We have a true legal eagle, a stonking branding team, merch experts, legacy bridal brains, and trust me, between us we could write a book of truly astonishing tales – I dare you to hit us with a query that we’ve not lived through (and we’ve dealt with probably worse!).

I cannot tell you how much my business has changed since joining the RBA. I literally cringe, when I remember my shop just six or seven years ago, and wonder what I was thinking. You must sometimes take a step back to realise you don’t know what you don’t know. It’s my favourite phrase because it reminds you that sometimes it’s okay to reach out and ask for help. You can’t possibly know everything as a new small business and that’s alright – reach out and there are people who can help you more than you know. Where else in the UK can you find such a wealth of experience on tap?

Within the RBA we have all sorts of amazing benefits that will be open to the new associate partner. Many of you will know of Wendy from Do you Speak Bride? Well, she now helps us speak more ‘bride’ within the RBA by doing a quarterly webinar for managers and owners to watch and learn from – even our legacy bridal store owners who’ve been in the game for 40-plus years found so much insight and help from these webinars, they are now learning and growing and changing their business models – showing there is just no time to stop learning about your customer or your business.

Even more benefits On top of that training, pre-Covid we had seminar events with experts in their fields. We had Warren Knight in my store doing a group training session on websites and social media.

It was amazing. He ripped apart my website in front of all my peers

showing me my inadequacies, but hey, I had a bottle of gin that night, put my big girl pants on and set to work.

Within two weeks my business was stronger and my website changed.

Sometimes you just need someone to light that fire under you, to get you going, and with advice and support from your peers, it can be game changing.

You then have discounts with insurance companies, legal support helplines and an Associate WhatsApp group where all other associate members can discuss and rant to their hearts delight.

I don’t know about you, but it’s not all Julie Andrews on hill tops in my life.

Some days, a bride or a situation really gets you down and you just need to crack on and vent. Enter the RBA. And we’re not forgetting existing RBA members. We’re introducing some super new exciting events for 2023, including more Do You Speak Bride training, as well as the everpopular Bridal Assurance Scheme (open to members, not associates).

We will also be offering a Referral Scheme bonus – for every member or associate who signs up, and is accepted to the RBA from a current members referral, you will get a healthy discount off the following year’s membership fee: 25% if you refer one shop, 35% for two shops, 50% for three shops, and a whopping 75% for four shops.

Bring in five shops and your membership for the next year is free.

If that doesn’t get you on the phone, I don’t know what will.

The referral schemes applies to full RBA member stores and the Associate Scheme so don’t be shy – get chatting and referring, it’s in your interest!

Great things ahead We’ve had so many exciting new developments. Even during Covid times, our fabulous executive committee member Shannon, from Dot Branding, has been a busy bee and developed gorgeous new RBA logos and taken Instagram by storm. We can’t wait for the next 12 months to see how we can all build and grow using our new marketing to show brides we are reliable, excellent stores to trust and support.

In essence, if you are the sort of superhuman who tackles the world and knows it all, then we aren’t your team. If, however, you are anything like me who aims for Superwoman but occasionally needs to call on Wonder Woman or She Ra for a little back up, then the RBA is for you.

Every Committee meeting, I sit next to my Wonder Woman, with She Ra and a Batman down the other end of the meeting table, not even mentioning the other superheroes in that room, offering to make this industry a better place for us all. Does that sound a bit of you? If so, get in touch.

MEMBERSHIP PACKAGES The full Associate Package is £500 per annum – open to all bricks and mortar bridal stores who have been in business from one to five years.

The full Members Package is £350 – open to any bricks and mortar store trading more than five years.

For more information, contact RBA administrator Laura on laura. elliott@smartpasupport.com and visit www.rbaltd.org.uk

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 31

Letter from America Judging from boutique reports of a brisk opening of the season and (for many) “record sales,” and equally robust comments from apparel and accessory manufacturers, the US bridal industry appears to be poised for dramatic growth in 2022-2023. Peter Grimes reports

P

rojections of 2.5 million US weddings forecast for 2022 as the most since 1984, may actually end up a bit conservative by year-end.

With COVID restrictions winding down, couples engaged during the pandemic who postponed their events are now emerging and actively shopping and buying as they can finally have ‘normal’ celebrations.

Also, this surge in business is not solely based on pent-up demand… early reports indicate that the engagement season of late 2021 may have been record-setting as well.

Stores in different regions of the US, and representing the full range of today’s bridal boutique classification, used virtually the same words to describe the state of their businesses: “We are overworked and understaffed… and doing

32 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

everything we can to accommodate all our brides!”

Signs of the times ✔ Boutiques still find themselves juggling staffing and stylists to effectively serve the increased number of brides visiting their stores. Their main concern: ensuring that there is no loss in reputation as they strive to provide the exceptional level of experience they are known for, and of which the bride expects.

“For the most part, our brides are pretty understanding,” commented one Midwest store, “though we do not want to rely on that.” ✔ In response, boutiques are maintaining a COVID-era appointment-only policy to more effectively control the setting and experience. Other boutiques that offer walk-in availability still strongly recommend that their brides book appointments. ✔ Appointment books are overcrowded with very few cancellations, resulting in boutiques extending hours and days of operation to meet the demand, and in setting up premium appointment fees for premium weekend appointments.

In commonly-related store experiences, stylists return to the store after hours and/or on off days to service their brides. ✔ Walk-in traffic continues to increase, even with an appointment-only requirement. ✔ Closing ratios are increasing, as brides make their buying decisions more quickly out of concerns about availability of their gowns and accessories…with little push

•

back on price.

A common refrain from retailers across the country: “They are well aware of issues with product availability… they see it everywhere they shop…and they don’t want to risk not getting their gown in time.”

Even with extended wear dates, brides prefer to take “their dress” home, or have a new one arrive fairly quickly. ✔ Boutique owners are also reporting very strong business in the Mother of the Wedding category as this customer looks to refresh her wardrobe for her daughter’s/son’s big day. And as with the bride, price is not an apparent major factor in her buying decision. ✔ Boutiques that also cater to Prom report increased traffic and burgeoning sales.

Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, wedding industry magazine

The drag on this bustling business cycle, is of course the widespread and widely reported supply chain disruptions and recurring product cost increases.

Yet this has not stifled demand or sales as manufacturers continue to adapt, change how and when they handle product and transportation cost increases, and focus on different merchandising and other approaches to help their boutiques benefit from this increase in demand.

Andy Star, co-owner with wife Lisa of the second generation, 53-year-old Bridal and Formal of Cincinnati, Ohio, and one of the US’s largest independent bridal retailer, provided an interesting take on the current state of bridal post-COVID: “Bridal retail has become a constant changing landscape from the large, multi-store conglomerates to the small boutiques and independent owners,” he said.

‘Back to the Future’ has become the norm.”

Robin Garrison, owner of the 25-year-old I Do Bridal in Seattle, Washington, and Vice President of the National Bridal Retailers Association (www. nationalbridalretailersassociation.com), confirmed that this surge in bridal business is nationwide, describing it as the “roaring 20s upon us,” as she offered her comments on the current state of bridal: “Overall the industry seems to have stabilised and perhaps even thrived through this unprecedented time,” she said. “Manufacturers that we work with who have invested heavily in hanging and incoming stock are seeing big increases as they are able to capture the sales from busy stores and replenish our inventory quickly,” she explained.

“As we move forward it is likely that more manufacturers will increase available inventory and incentivise bulk buys or high re-order accounts with discounts to keep their inventory flowing,” she added.

Additionally, she noted that other options such as offprice merchandise and higher margin goods from private designers have helped stores achieve an increase in offthe-rack sales to fulfill shorter order times and address increased demand.

TO WORK W I TH US , CONTACT: Sales Executive Martha Cooke martha@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07877 449122

Editor Susi Rogol susi@meanttobemedia.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational!

Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Bridal Collective Europe

W E D D I N GT RA D ER M AG .CO M M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 33

To make an appointment to view the new collections, please contact: Michelle Blackburn: 07935 156275 | michelle@casablancabridal.eu

NOW AVAILABLE ON

WHAT MA K ES A WINN ER Entrants in The Wedding Industry Awards had to state their business ethos and also the best-learned lesson of the past year. The regional winners shared with us what they believed made them stand out

R

WINNE

THE LITTLE PEARL 36 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

YORKSHIRE AND NORTH EAST

THE LITTLE PEARL

R

WINNE

Owner: Diana McMann Year opened: 2015 Labels carried: Stella York, Rachel Rose, WToo by Watters, Abella, Willowby by Watters Company ethos Here at The Little Pearl Bridal Boutique, our #PearlsGirls are at the heart of everything we do. We are here to guide them through their bridal journey, from choosing their dress to getting the perfect fit, giving expert advice, being that listening ear when they need it, while providing them with an unforgettable experience. We love to get to know our brides, understand what makes them tick, how they want to feel on their big day, and ultimately empower them to embrace their individual style.

We want them to feel part of our Little Pearl family – one of our #PearlsGirls!

The best lesson learned The last year has been a challenging one to say the least! From being closed and having to manage throughout lockdown, to re-opening with a bang and our feet rarely touching the floor, the biggest thing I’ve learned is to think outside of the box and be adaptable. We had months of no income, but still with bills to pay, and things we needed to invest in to keep our business afloat for re-opening. I had to explore different ways of trying to get the cash coming in. I still had a family to house and feed, so sitting back and ‘enjoying’ lockdown was just not an option.

We pivoted into various areas and adapted our way of working to allow for additional revenue streams. Being adaptable and creative really pushed and challenged me, both personally and as a business woman. I had to get my big girl pants on and get out of my comfort zone! Doing this has made me such a stronger, more resilient boutique owner, so as much as it was a tough experience I have definitely grown from it.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 37

NORTH WEST

PRETTY WHITE DRESS

R

WINNE

Owner: Sara Hassan Year opened: 2019 Labels carried: Madi Lane, It Was All A Dream Bridal, Madison James, Theia, Catherine Deane, Evie Young Company ethos To provide a luxury and exceptional bridal experience for brides looking to purchase a wedding dress and to create a memory that adds to the adventure of getting married. Our three key words are: LUXURY | EXCELLENCE | EXPERTISE. Our brides are our queens and we want them to feel that they are in the safe hands of friendly experts, and that they have our full attention whenever needed. We have very high standards at PWD, as we want our customers to feel they’ve had the highest level of service in all aspects of their contact with us. Our three key words must be reflected in everything we do; our customer service, our personal appearance, the boutique appearance and everything we do in-between. Consistency is key and we want every bride to have the same experience no matter what day she visits the boutique or who she speaks to. As an all-female team in a predominantly female industry, serving women, we felt very strongly that it was our duty to give back and empower other women in the world who may not have a voice. We have pledged as a business to give 10% of our profits to charities helping women in trafficking. Our chosen charity this year is Hope for Justice who work so hard to put an end to modern slavery and rescue women and children from trafficking.

PRETTY WHITE DRESS 38 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

The best lesson learned “Comparison is the thief of joy” – During lockdown, it was so easy to become side tracked by what others were doing.

Every time I saw another bridal boutique doing things differently, such as offering online appointments or sending dresses by courier to be tried on etc, it made me think I was doing things wrong and should also be doing that too. At times I got so caught up in watching what others were doing that I completely lost sight of my own vision and focusing on our own brides.

After taking a step back and reflecting, I realised that what’s right for one business is not always right for another. Once I changed my way of thinking and fully focused on our own journey and the needs of our brides, everything felt much easier and lighter. Our brides wanted support and comfort, not a live generic message that went out to the masses. I personally called each one of my brides to catch up with them, see how they were feeling about things and just offer a listening ear and some positivity. I set up a private Facebook group for new brides where we performed private Facebook Live sessions. Through this we were able to talk about things in a smaller and safer environment, which cemented our ethos that our brides are the most important thing to us, not how many followers we have or how many reels we could get done on Instagram. Everyone’s situation and business is different, therefore, when you are true to yourself and your own vision, that’s when you really shine.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 39

WEST MIDLANDS

TDR

TDR

R

WINNE

Owner: Rebecca Baddeley Opened: 2007 Labels carried: Ellis, Enzoani, Justin Alexander, Maddison James, Mori Lee, Ronald Joyce, Sottero & Midgley Company ethos Honesty and integrity, a ‘can do’ attitude, a fantastic team of very happy, motivated and kind ladies, personally driven to strive to give the very best experience to each and every bride they serve, outlines our company ethos. We aim for transparency throughout, right from directors through the bridal stylists to our team of seamstresses – every single person who works for TDR Bridal knows our values and is empowered to make decisions with the brides’ best interests at heart.

We decided from the outset that we would never talk – or even think – negatively about our brides, not even for a second.

We take any form of feedback, both positive and negative, as lessons for our business. Every member of staff brings an important and unique element to the business, from my manager to my bridal stylists, and I know that their characters are what make TDR the place that brides shout about. Each member of staff has the same goal – to ensure that each of our brides not

40 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

only finds their dream dress, but are supported throughout the whole journey with us.

There is such a positive vibe here at TDR all the time.

TDR is a safe, happy place for our brides to come to, to feel supported and guided at every stage. We create an environment for our brides where they can happily and confidently put their complete trust in us, which is all we have ever strived for.

The best lesson learned The disruptions to our business over the past year have taught us that you must be prepared for change, and how to be fluid and adapt. It has taught us that nothing is ever set in stone as, like never before, we have had to continuously change and re-invent our plan, strategies and mindset.

Lockdown gave me the time to sit back and re-evaluate a never-ending list of tasks, which in turn gave me the chance to push ahead more than ever. The spare time we had allowed us to be innovative, forward-thinking and overall, much more ahead of our game, which has proved just how important this is for our business.

The business decisions I have made over the last 12 months have been some of the best, for a number of reasons, but most importantly, have given me much more financial

freedom. This has all proved to me that no-one knows my business better than I do, and that I should always remain true to myself and trust my gut. Right now, I believe that I am where I need to be, I know that the position my business is currently in is what I have always strived for. After recognising how much these changes have positively impacted my business, I know that my mindset needs to be to always push forward.

I loved having that direct contact with my brides, chatting and listening to their situations, learning to understand them even more and this, in turn, gave me priceless information on exactly what they want and need from a bridal retailer, and a clear view as to how they really feel about bridal retail in general.

It has helped me to stay true to what I believe and cemented my belief that women want to see and hear from real women in real situations, not just Instagram-worthy scenarios. They feel intimidated by perfectly manicured Instagram feeds, they don’t feel “good enough” already, without having to feel as though they have to look a certain way just to go wedding dress shopping.

My main lesson has been, stay in my own lane, focus on my business, don’t look at competition, and remain true to what I believe a bridal shop should be, empowering women to look and feel their absolute best, and enable them to feel comfortable and safe in the knowledge that we will look after them every single step of the way throughout their journey from Miss to Mrs.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 41

EAST MIDLANDS

NORA EVE BRIDAL

R

WINNE

Owner: Emma Swain Opened: 2012 Labels carried: Madi Lane, Jolie by Berta, Ella Kate, Maggie Sottero, Mori Lee and Rebecca Ingram.

Company ethos Nora Eve Bridal takes its name from my Nan – an inspirational lady who always encouraged me to follow my dreams and remains at the heart of everything we do – from the friendly welcome into our boutique to the little details that make our brides’ experience special. We spend a lot of time sourcing the right designers and styles, ensuring that our brides can find something a little different to the norm when they visit. It’s our goal to make sure our brides find their dream wedding dress at Nora Eve and have the best time doing so!

The best lesson learned In early 2020 Nora Eve had been gaining momentum and we were on track for our most successful year ever, so when the pandemic hit and the boutique had to close, I was worried about the effect on my business. I feel fortunate that I had invested in a great business coach, and through working together I learned that even the most unexpected situation can create opportunities to learn and grow.

During lockdown I worked on new business ideas, and researched where and how to invest business grants and funding wisely to ensure that Nora Eve was financially robust, streamlined, and stronger than ever as we emerged from lockdown, with a clear vision for the future.

NORA EVE BRIDAL

42 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 43

R

WINNE EAST OF ENGLAND

PRETTY WHITE DRESS Owner: Anne Hare Opened: 2005 Labels carried: Maggie Sottero, Sottero & Midgley, Rebecca Ingram, Essense, Evie Young, Abella, and most recently Milla Nova Company ethos Pure is a destination store for exceptional wedding attire, which is both superbly designed and expertly handcrafted. Sourcing designs from suppliers we know and partners we trust, creating confidence and choice for our customers and offering the fairest possible price.

We build meaningful relationships with our customers, our suppliers and our team, existing to create experiences where passion and exceptional service come together, delivering memorable moments to be treasured forever.

44 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

The best lesson learned I’ve learned so much over the years, not least to be resilient, be confident in your own plan and don’t worry too much about what everyone else is up to. Self-belief is everything, if you don’t believe in yourself then how can you expect anyone else to believe in you? Be positive, energy is infectious and so lead by example. That’s not so much in the last year, but it really has applied in the last year more than ever before, as a result of not only the pandemic, but with the increase in the number of ways in which a bride can now source her wedding dress, and the challenging position of the UK high street.

My business has had to move swiftly in order to react to market pressures and that’s not always been easy. Being quick to adapt to the everchanging expectations and demands of the modern bride means thinking the way that she thinks and continuously evolving, fully embracing her mindset and the world she inhabits, it’s never been just about hanging dresses on my rails, but now, more than ever it’s about the experience we create for her. I’m confident in what I have to offer my brides and my passion never fades.

Keeping that as my focus is what gives me the energy to consistently move forward.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 45

SOUTH EAST

VICTORIA’S BRIDAL BOUTIQUE

R

WINNE

Owner: Victoria Lamb Opened: 2013 Labels Carried: Maggie Sottero, Rebecca Ingram, Stella York, Sincerity and our own label Jessica and Jayne Company ethos Dedication to our brides is key; our mission is to ensure that any feelings of stress or anxiety melt away the moment a bride walks through the door, leaving them to have a fun and relaxing appointment where they can feel confident in saying yes to the dress.

The journey with VBB starts way before they come through the door. When booking we take the time to discuss what they are looking for. There is no computer replying to their emails, we respond to everyone directly and personally. We like to get to know our brides right from the start. This lets us prepare for their appointment – If a bride has preferred styles, we suggest a

selection of dresses to begin with. However, from experience, ‘wild cards’ are quite often the winner, so we never restrict the number of dresses that can be tried. If there is no preference, or the preferred style isn’t ‘doing it’, we’ll get an idea of likes and dislikes and then suggest other dresses that could be ‘the one’ – using our experience to discreetly put forward suggestions better suited to particular body types if required.

We love our job and take all the time needed to give our brides the experience they deserve.

The best lesson learned Flexibility is key. We have changed our working hours to offer lots of options. and include three nights a week and Sunday appointments. Being available to talk to our brides has been so important, we now have a mobile number that we give them so they can contact us at any time day or night to ask questions or arrange appointments and fittings.

VICTORIA’S BRIDAL BOUTIQUE 46 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 47

SOUTH CENTRAL

OLIVIA GEORGE BRIDAL

R

WINNE

Owner: Carolyn Maker and Michelle Savoy When opened: 2018 Labels carried: Victoria Kay, Phoenix Bridal, Maggie Sottero, Tiffanys, Romantica, Your Couture

fully inclusive. Last year we became signed up members of transfriend.ly and have given three transgender ladies the full boutique experience, one of whom gets married this year in one of our gowns, as well as a gorgeous prom girl.

Company ethos Our ethos comes in four parts: Budget: every bride should have the chance to experience the luxury of a quality bridal experience, regardless of what they wish to spend.

Size: It is our passion to bring out body confidence in all those who come to us. We stock a growing range of samples from size 16 to 30 so brides can try on all the styles. We are proud to have a true understanding and empathy with the struggles that curvy ladies find in the world of bridal, and it is our aim to give them THE best experience they could possibly have and go away loving how they will look in their wedding gown.

Sustainability: From working with our designers to reduce the number of shipments we receive, to giving out paper gift bags, we really try to do our bit as far as we can. We also have a developing alterations workshop and we methodically unpick any dresses that are past their best and not saleable, in order to reuse/recycle the materials for new items such as garters/ring cushions and veils, instead of sending them to landfill.

Diversity: Everyone is welcome, regardless of background, size, gender identity etc. We do try to reflect this in our marketing and are always open to learning more on this, in order to be

The best lesson learned Collaboration and positivity 100% are the key to our success and we strive every single week to see the positive in everything (okay, most things!). We have forged fantastic relationships with surrounding bridal boutiques and regularly recommend others where we feel we may be unable to help a bride. We also shout about fellow industry professionals who we would personally recommend; in our stories, posts and also in our gift bags, which we give to our ‘I said yes’ brides.

This and making robust financial goals – this has not only helped us to plan our buying better than ever before, but also has given us the boost that we have desperately needed on many occasions when we thought things were ‘bad’.

OLIVIA GEORGE BRIDAL 48 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 49

SOUTH WEST

THE WHITE COLLECTION Owners: Laura Allen and Sarah Parker When Opened: 2018 Labels carried: Enzoani, Rosa Clara, Aire Barcelona, Berta, Made with love

R

WINNE

Company Ethos Equality, diversity and inclusion. We are working hard to do more when it comes to inclusivity in our boutiques. We are constantly

striving to represent all types of women in our marketing, dress sizing and budget and are always looking for ways in which we can improve and better the business to make it more inclusive going forward. No one should feel like they cannot be a customer of ours or that they are not represented. Over the next year we are working with our suppliers, old and new, to strive to make our business more diverse not only on the outside through our marketing, but also within our stores in our staffing, stock and the designers that we work with.

The best lesson learned The best lession was that we can be ‘busy fools’! When we opened, we had a backlog of brides wanting to book in, so had no available appointments for almost four months. We opened later hours, and fitted in as many brides as we could in a short space of time, but then realised that a lot of these brides were prepared to wait. Lockdown gave us a great opportunity to grow our brand, and make more people brand aware, meaning that a lot our brides had bought into our brand before even stepping through our door.

Our brides do have to book in advance for weekend appointments with us, but we have found that having a waiting list hasn’t put brides off – it’s actually made us more desirable. Brides can see that we are obviously worth waiting for, which is good; we find that because they have booked in so far in advance with us, they are more likely to commit to buying with us. So in short, being booked up and having a waiting list is not a bad thing! Brides will wait as long as we have a great brand and are driving this online. We tried many things at the beginning, and discussed it all in depth, but as tempting at it was to open all hours to fit our demand, we found that this would come at a price, either by reducing the time we spend with brides or burning out our staff, which just wasn’t worth risking our reputation for!

THE WHITE COLLECTION

50 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 51

Come and visit us at White Gallery Stand: 508

IT’ S S H OW T IME …

European Bridal Week, 30 April–2 May, is the key trade event in northern Europe, attracting exhibitors and visitors from across the world. It’s theme this year, Bringing Back The Magic, says it all

M

any hundreds of new collections, from more than 40 countries, will be unveiled when European Bridal Week opens its doors in Messe Essen’s high-tech exhibition facility

in April. And adding to the special magic is that some of the industry’s biggest names – including the Justin Alexander Group, Morilee, Demetrios, Eddy K, The Sposa Group, Amelie and Cleofe Finati by Archetipo – have chosen EBW as their exclusive showground in Northern Europe.

A vast audience of visitors from the four corners of the world – there for three days of serious buying – is central to the appeal of this longstanding event that has been uniting the bridal community by delivering the names, the atmosphere, the networking opportunities, and crucially, the business for almost 20 years. That’s a fine pedigree, indeed.

This year, the show’s dynamic catwalk programme features three

54 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

performances a day – at 11am, 1pm and 3pm – and is where retailers head to preview the best of the best for the season ahead.

HOW TO REGISTER You can register at www.europeanbridalweek.com to fast track your entry to the show and check out the impressive list of exhibitors, and special show features. The team at marketing@ europeanbridalweek.com will answer questions and help with recommending accommodation for overseas buyers.

A WORLD OF MAGIC Collections from around the world make this event so very special

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 55

In conversation with... when a chance phone call with an industry colleague ignited the idea of applying my 30-plus years’ experience. Why not launch a new, innovative brand whilst the world was in a global pandemic and do it in just four months? Crazy but exciting.

“It wasn’t easy starting from scratch, but we were very clear about what we wanted to achieve. Our vision was ‘virtual’ service level. Everything that e launched Your less about the dresses – there are Couture Bridal because we wanted to avoid. many thousands of designs out there “Lizzie and I have worked together we wanted to shake off – but more about our understanding the corporate shackles for over 20 years. We have such a of the obstacles retailers face that strong friendship and the same work that come with representing a major diminish their ability to succeed and ethic. Our skills complement each label, and which were preventing us from offering the high level of service other wonderfully, we share the desire be profitable.

“We knew we wanted to offer an to only offer the best to our retailers. we had become recognised for. This, Being the owners and designers, it’s a eclectic collection – something for coupled with an understanding of short route to the top to get a decision everyone – a collection that if taken in what retailers need, meant that we had to take back control and do it our or resolution. What retailers want is to its entirety would be a great starting point for any new retailer, or would fill deal with a company where they get way,” explains Richard Lill. in the gaps for an established shop an answer immediately, preferably “They say that no matter how far looking to streamline their suppliers. by phone, not just a standard email. you are down the wrong road, turn Which retailer, after all, would not We all know how impatient and back, and we bravely did just that. opt for one less minimum, one less aggravated brides can get if left to The choice was to look for another pressure sell, one less account to stew. brand to represent, or to ride off into pay? the sunset. We started researching “No one would argue that the past different brands, but each one threw Recognising needs up similar restrictions, like minimums, “The market was already so crowded, two years have been challenging. poor exclusivity, and a shift to a more and I was ready to bow out gracefully, I’m not sure if launching during a

Richard Lill and Lizzie Turner have created their own label – Your Couture Bridal – putting their combined expertise, experience and knowledge to the best possible use, and bringing real benefits to their stockists

W

56 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

pandemic meant we had more to overcome than established brands; but we did know that if we could not get our supply chain right from the start, there was no point in pursuing our dream. Today with the shift to online shopping, society is obsessed with wanting everything NOW, which in bridal is simply not possible while maintaining quality, choice and price.

“We worked so hard to make sure our supply chain was robust, and we have had little disruption, which is why our standard delivery is seven weeks and we can offer a five-week rush and three-week super rush – what today’s bride wants and expects. One big advantage for our stockists is that all our shipping is done by us from our UK showroom, so there are none of the hidden charges or duty and taxes to pay, which can negatively affect a retailer’s bottom line.

“We set our expectations for the launch at Harrogate in September 2021, and they were surpassed.

We don’t apply pressure; we want Your Couture Bridal to be a true collaboration. It is vital to us that our retailers trust us to do our best for them, and that they love our ethos.

We delivered all our sample orders by early December, but we understand we may be in the minority in achieving this.

“We are delighted that the launch collection has been a great success, with its clear winners. We wanted a collection where the dress we designed was the starting point. We provide our stockists with a style pack that contains samples of all the laces and appliqués in the collection, so they can work with their brides to create that dream dress.

“We can all get fixated with the ‘gloss’ of selling and promoting a brand, but Your Couture Bridal is our retailers’ brand, and they can promote it in the way that will work best for them. We do give them a guide price but if they feel they can chieve more,

then that is their decision.

“We have stripped things back to what is important, and remain aware of the need to be eco-friendly, so we reuse and recycle packaging, consolidate not only our deliveries but our customers, too, to reduce the carbon footprint of our company.

We don’t drive round the country gas guzzling; we prefer to sell at exhibitions where we can present our product correctly and create a relaxed happy buying environment.

“So, we had the brand, the collection, and the support of retailers – or, as we refer to them as our “bridal specialists”, which is what they are.

The industry as a whole may tend to think of retailers as “just shops”, but they are so much more in our eyes. Pretty pictures of dresses may entice brides, but it’s a retailer’s skill in sales, presentation, tailoring, and relationship-building that get the business.

“Now we are building on our

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 57

success, and we want to maintain a structured growth. Every bridal specialist that we add to our network has to complement all the others, maintaining the level of professionalism and service brides expect. We all work together like a family supporting each other.

“And we don’t just pay lip service when we talk about this being a collaboration. Every season we will invite our bridal specialists give us feedback and to design gowns for the next collection. We are not looking for the next Picasso. We want them to let us know what they want, and more importantly, why they want it. We will take on board requests, for example, like the need for a cut to be above bra-strap level at the back, or to eliminate ‘side boob’. Any retailer’s design that makes it into the collection gets their sample free.

And there’s more to the equation “Alongside Your Couture Bridal, we also launched “Your Luxury House of Print”. This is a garment printing business that complements the

bridal side or the organisation. We can bespoke dress bags with brides’ names and/or shop logos, and brand garments for shops, or for events. We have a portfolio of over 1,000 different printable products. Shops can offer hen party T-shirts, for example, giving them an additional revenue stream. It all adds to the full service we and our stockists offer.

“We spend every day looking for inspiration and working with our factory to source beautiful laces and fabrics. Sometimes, it’s the lace that inspires the design, but most times we design and then look for the perfect embellishments.

And our new photography showcases the collection beautifully in both regular and plus size, making it truly relatable to today’s modern bride.

“Retailers who are looking for something different that is ecofriendly, adaptable, with no minimum order requirements, and offers enhanced exclusivity, free trunk shows and a free loan service of our UK12 and UK20 samples, with a down-to-earth honest approach to good old-fashioned service, Your Couture Bridal fits the bill. The collection retails from £495–£1,995, in sizes UK4-UK32 with no plus-size surcharge until size UK24.”

Looking forward “Our next collection, which we will be showing alongside our best-selling carryovers at Bridal Week London at Excel, is a mix of soft and structured silhouettes, each one designed to sculpt and flatter the body. We have used an array of luxurious fabrics and embellishments, and skillful cuts designed to accentuate the feminine form no matter the body shape or size.

Your Couture Bridal +44 1423 876380 / +44 77667 351270 richard.lill@lionheartportfolio.com

58 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

Harrogate Bridal Roadshow 6-7 March 2022 Bridal Week London 20-22 March 2022 Bridal Week Harrogate 11-13 September 2022

69712

ronaldjoyce.com

G E TT I N G TO KNOW

Tania Olsen A huge Australian label is fast becoming one of the hottest newcomers to the UK market. Tania Olsen tells us all about their latest collection, which they’ll be showcasing at White Gallery...

Name of brand: Tania Olsen Designs When launched and where: Launched in 2015 in Australia Who is the boss: Tania Olsen Sum up the brand: Attainable luxury for the modern bride Which countries do you sell in?: Australia, New Zealand, United Kingdom, Switzerland, United States, Canada, Saudi Arabia Is this your first foray in the UK and Europe?: We first entered the UK market in 2021 Fabrics for the new season, and colours and embellishments: Our new collection has a wide range of fabrics from fun and flirty 3D lace to luxurious damask satins. Most of our bridal styles come in vintage white with a select few also available in pure white or with a nude lining to

60 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

really show off the details! We also LOVE the finer embellishments and have included a wide variety of handfinished beaded lace designs in this collection for the bride who wants something a little extra special Number of pieces in the collection you’ll show at White Gallery: We have 40 bridal styles that will be part of this year’s showing. You’ll find us on Stand A24 Trend setting silhouettes: Our most trending silhouette has been the A-line styles with gorgeous lace bodices and light-weight tulle skirts Size range for the UK: Our bridal range is available in sizes UK 4-40 Approx. retail price range: We recommend a markup of 2.7-3 on all our bridal gowns Who is your UK contact for sales?: Billy Fitzsimons fitzsimonsbilly@icloud.com www.taniaolsen.com.au

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 61

Peta’s Short Stories There have always been brides who favoured the short and sweet – or sassy – but now it’s a serious trend.

Retailers read on, and grab the opportunity

ELLIS BRIDALS

HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

A

whole raft of stylish iconic brides, past and present, have opted to go short – Lily Allen, Keira Knightley, Mia Farrow, Elizabeth Taylor (a couple of times), Nancy Shevell (Mrs Paul McCartney), and Audrey Hepburn to name a few. Even I, back in medieval times, wore a high-low dress when I said I do.

Pre-Covid, brides who often wanted to be different, went for retro styles – yes, I am talking about that

62 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

ANNE BARGE WATTERS

JUSTIN-ALEXANDER AADORE

out the inner child in me, but there’s so much more to it than this.

Increasingly, women are choosing short dresses because they feel stylish, comfy and fuss-free. And short does not mean short-changed or drab – for the Hollywood glam approach look no further than Vivien Westwood: a bride can pretend to be Dita von Teese on her wedding day in an off-the-shoulder narrow fitting dress with built-in corset, and an opportunity to get those paparazzistyle pictures.

Designers who are leading the way with shorties include Odylyne the Ceremony, Kate Edmonson, Amsale, much-loved Mooshki and the dresses Watters, SelfPortrait, Rebecca Vallance, and of course, Rime that inspired thousands of images.

Arodaky.

However, since Covid with a great Budget-conscious and fashiondivide between the “let’s just rush out forward dreams are made by and get wed asap, we can’t put it off Reformation who do a simple shift any longer” and the full on “I want to dress with a slit at the side and little be a princess so I’m wearing a huge gown”, the trend for short dresses has bows on the shoulder that with a veil, says: “Rush me to Vegas immediately, become core to wedding dressing.

I need to get married, and I can I love the idea of a short shift hear an Elvis lookalike singing in the dress with a little veil, Jackie O background already”. inspired. Counter that with loving Rowley Hesselballe, Max Mara, the whooshing about in a 50s-style and Stately Soirée have all done full-circle skirt with thousands of short sassy dresses perfect for petticoats underneath and it brings

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 63

ODYLYNE THE CEREMONY

JLM

EVA LENDEL

HALO & CO

64 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

brides, second timers, and third timers. These short dresses look fabulous topped with an opera coat or a chic white blazer.

I have always loved a big shoulder, Two for one and I am a bargain hunter, and Eva Following the trend in America, and Lendl has done a brilliant dress with we do, we are seeing short dresses for pre-wedding dinners then another my favourite thing of the moment – detachable sleeves – a nice little for partying in the evening. I know dress to party in and your shoulders every bride isn’t following Paris Hilton’s example, (how many dresses cover for your ceremony. That’s half price according to my style of did she sport in a week of wedding calculating, because you’re only celebrations?) but I do think there’s buying one dress and getting two! something quite nice about a party Kate Halfpenny has created a huge dress. Hurrah for the big budget puff ball skirt on her shorter dress, brides. again perfect to wear afterwards.

For ten years now, Eliza Jane And talking of wearing afterwards, Howell has been making fabulous Pronovias will alter a wedding dress beaded dresses, not only long and after the big day and turn it into the sparkly for just about every celeb perfect shortie, and other designers on TV, but also short dresses great are following suite. Obviously, this for partying, and perfect for vintage won’t work on every dress, but when

HALFPENNY LONDON

ELIZA JANE HOWELL

civil services, country weddings and destination elopements in the summer.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 65

THE REFORMATION

it does… what a great selling point.

When I first started in the industry, we often said that you can wear a corset top of a dress again, with jeans, and turn the skirt into a party number. We weren’t being green or saving the planet, it was just fashion, and practical. For the bride who does not want to go mini both Ellis Bridals and Victor & Rolf‘s highlow gowns work for me.

Kiera Knightley (who knew she’d became some such a point of style reference for me) not only wore her short wedding dress before she got married – okay, it was Chanel – but has worn it afterwards on a few occasions. Now that is real savvy shopping.

66 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

MAGGIE SOTTERO

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

SAVIN LONDON

ROWLEY HESSELBALLE

Going part time Due to Covid, ‘part’ weddings (a new term, as in “Are you having a part wedding?”) are on the agenda. That means a short dress for the civil ceremony, before fleeing the country for a destination do/honeymoon, and a short dress again, then a friends and family party when Covid is over.

TEMPERLEY

This is a great opportunity for retailers, as the third ‘do’ could mean that originally dreamed about dress... so there could be a multiple sale possibility with the ‘part’ proposition.

And then the bride might wear her original short number for her anniversary.

Remember, too, that going short does not mean going light on accessories. Offer your brides a great fascinator (I love Awon Golding, Edwina Ibbotson, and Emily London, and for short or long veils, Ivory & Co). And the trend for big hats is not going away – they are very much here to stay and part of the bridal stylist’s kit, along with re-wearable chunky hair bands (Halo&Co, Dolecka). And if your bride-to-be feels like rocking the vintage vibe, gloves have been popping up on social a lot, Sarah Seven has a tulle pair with hearts on that are picture-worthy in their own right. Short also provides a great opportunity to show off those pins with a pair of great-looking shoes.

And you can tell, right now I’m fully focused on the virtues and selling advantages of going short… there is something very 2022 about that. WT

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 67

For more information on becoming a stockist, please email denise@galaxyagency.co.uk. www.sophiatolli.com

A Treat Awaits Belfast and the historic Titanic Hotel will be bustling with activity during a two-day showroom event in April

D

ebbie Johnson of Deborah Rose Agencies, currently covers all of Ireland and Scotland for the entire Modeca portfolio – Modeca, Le Papillon, Curves by Modeca and the new Couture by Modeca – and the Global Bridal Services collections, Randy Fenoli Bridal, Herve Paris and Libelle Bridal. And adding to her wardrobe of brands this year are Mon Cheri promwear and a newly-launched Communion dress collection from Romantica.

She’ll be showing her labels in Belfast, which is easily accessible for stores coming from the mainland (and as part of the UK there’s no testing requirements), and wanted to find a truly unique venue. Her thoughts immediately went to the Titanic Quarter and the Titanic Hotel – “What better place for a Titanic

event!,” she says. “I fell in love with the room as soon as I stepped inside.”

Once the headquarters for shipbuilders Harland & Wolff, and considered the nerve centre of the largest shipyard in the world, the Titanic Hotel, is described as the ‘Cape Canaveral of its time’.

Debbie’s ‘showroom’ will be held in one of the beautiful Drawing Offices, where the entire White Star Line fleet was designed, and then constructed on the slipways outside, including the legendary liners Olympic, Titanic and Oceanic and the naval warship HMS Belfast. The magnificent dual Victorian Drawing Offices, with their three-storey high barrel-vaulted ceilings, are the only surviving example of this type of shipyard architecture in the world.

“When the pandemic hit in 2019,” Debbie explains, “we decided to hold our own local showrooms, hosting one in the Republic of Ireland and a second in Scotland. Then, when I was visiting some of our amazing Scottish customers on the road in September 2021, they expressed an interest in attending the event in Ireland, and that’s how the our programme developed.

“The show, on 10-11 April, is open to all our existing stockists, and we welcome enquiries from other stores interested in taking on any of the collections. Invites have already been emailed out to our retailers, and we have had an amazing response, with our numbers growing daily.”

What to expect from the collections The trends for the upcoming bridal

70 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

season vary from the most simple and elegant gowns to the most extravagant and sparkling dresses. And Modeca covers it all, with designs that go from the classical to contemporary chic, to over-the-top princess ballgowns with lots and lots of beading.

You’ll find wonderful shoulder details, from tulle bows to puff sleeves, and strong statement lines – both vertical and horizontal – subtle beading, beautifully detailed straps and carefully placed lace appliqués.

There are luxurious tulles, lace, crepe, chiffon and mikado, including stretch versions that sculpts the body beautifully. There are separates, too, allowing mix and match options and a truly individual end result – the bride’s own work. WT

HOW TO REGISTER TO AT T E N D To check availability and register, retailers from England and Wales should contact Tony Bromilow, abagenciesltd@gmail.com / 079 6222 6543 Retails from N Ireland, Republic of Ireland and Scotland should contact Debbie Johnston at debbie@deborahroseagencies.com +44 (0)75 0872 4671 For stores outside of N Ireland, the company is delighted to offer one night’s complimentary accommodation.

www.rollinginroses.co.uk @rolling_in_roses

ECO FRIENDLY. SUSTAINABLE. ETHICAL.

EXHIBITING AT WHITE GALLERY - STAND 207

G LITTE R GOES TO THE HEAD Yona Armstrong, whose fairytale shoe brand, Crystal Couture, proved to be a real winner in department stores, has launched a collection of deliciously made sparkling hats, perfect for hen parties, now they are back on the agenda

S

elling bridal shoes, bags and accessories that the press loved for their OTT sparkle, Yona Armstrong, selftaught designer with a real passion for all-things shiny, is now planning to hit the headlines and the message screams fun and flamboyant.

When her mainstream business was hit hard by the pandemic and the retailers she sold through were unable to trade, Yona sat herself down to consider her next chapter.

Something away from sparkle? Absolutely not. She has come up with a collection of wildly wonderful hats and caps, dripping with sequins and dotted with diamantés that we reckon brides themselves will love, and certainly want for the maids and friends. With retail prices from £75, and the possibility to personalise any style, we reckon there’s going to be considerable interest in the collection. Want to know more and see all of Yona’s other accessories?

For more information... www.crystal-couture.com email sales@crystal-couture.com

72 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 73

LU SH LAYER S Don’t miss out on the new Freda Bennet collection, strutting its stuff at White Gallery London, 22-22 March, at Excel

L

aunched in 2019, the collection by that intrepid duo, Jane Hancock and Christine Wilke, blossoms each season, Jane cutting patterns to Christine’s designs.

The handwriting is distinctly their own, a reinvention of the classics, with a cocktail of inspired design twists providing a metropolitan edge for today’s thoroughly modern bride. Their handwriting is crisp, with clean lines that soften with add-on features – a sumptuous bow perhaps, or wonderfully extravagant sleeves.

Contemporary seam detail and redefined silhouettes highlight a story of multi layering that allows a bride to create her own big day story – a simple classic-cut crepe dress or a strapless mikado ballgown can take on layer upon layer of its own personality, with a romantic overskirt, a sparkle cardigan, a soft tulle coat, or the addition of detachables.

For 2022, Freda Bennet is all about texture, and transforming a classic shape by introducing a new, and often very different, fabric, such as the current hot choice, cloque, while crepes and Mikado, silk organza and tulles are layered and frilled to create another dimension. Cloque, incidentally, is a fabric that has a jacquard look and feel, with a raised woven pattern and a puckered or quilted look, The stunning 34-piece collection, which will be unveiled at White Gallery London, makes a real statement about style, while keeping pricing to a realistic £1,000 to £1,800. And with all those layering options, that’s one dress with two or even three looks. A bride’s idea of heaven.

“Whilst we love what we do, our business could never have worked so effectively if we weren’t such great friends,” they say. “Despite the competing demands of a design partnership, friendship and motherhood, it would not have been so successful had we not had creative diversity, loyalty, quiet determination, a willingness to think positively, a shared sense of humour and a great deal of laughter along the way.”

Freda Bennet +44 1322 537741 www.fredabennet.co,uk

74 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

3495rw

3626rw

3450rw

3127rw

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 75

With weddings and parties back on the agenda, the occasionwear market is enjoying a surge in sales.

Benefitting hugely is the much-loved Veromia group, which is firmly focused on that sector. We talked business to the boss and industry favourite, Vivien Felstein A bit about you, please?

I started with Pronuptia 39 years ago after having my first child and previously working as an accountant with John Lewis.

At Pronuptia, I worked my way up in the business ladder, going from part time sales person to assistant manager and then to manager of the flagship store. I moved into the role of area manager and then became buyer for Pronuptia.

In the year 2000, I launched Veromia along with Johnson Chong and we produced in our own factories in China and Vietnam.

76 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

VEROMIA OCCASIONS

Mama Mia What labels did you start off with?

In our launch portfolio we had the Veromia Bridal and Veromia Couture ranges.

In your portfolio today?

Today we have three occasionwear collections. Irresistible is a stylish MOB collection of 35 pieces, designed for the mum who does not want to look traditional. Dressed Up is a plus-size occasionwear brand of 30 pieces, sizes 16-32. With the average size woman now size 18 in England, this market is growing very quickly.

We also have Veromia Occasions

IRRESISTIBLE

IRRESISTIBLE

DRESSED UP

which is a guest collection, great for events like the races, and for young mums. It has 35 pieces. The retail price point is amazing and this brand is growing rapidly.

You’ve dropped certain collections, what was the reason behind that decision?

We dropped the bridesmaids line because we found that there were too many brands selling on the internet, and we felt we couldn’t compete with that, or with the cheap department store collections; at the end of the day you have to be

in business to make a profit. And we halted our activities in the bridal sector as occasionwear had become such a massive part of our business and we could not devote as much time to bridal as it deserved.

We still have our award-winning Sonsie, however, our plus-size bridal label that has its own place in the market.

How many stockists do you have for each label and where are they?

We are in most UK and Irish shops – we do not sell in Europe.

Each collections is in 60 to 80

independents, and some shops carry all three of our labels.

What are you finding is most in demand, style-wise and size-wise?

Comfort for all three brands. We use a lot of stretch fabrics, which do wonders for the figure. Our audience wants stylish dresses that make you stand out in a crowd. And we’ve taken our plus-size collection up to size 32 (it was 28) to meet demand.

Trends for the year ahead in occasionwear?

In occasionwear beautiful colours,

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 77

A bit about you, please?

DRESSED UP

VEROMIA OCCASIONS

VEROMIA OCCASIONS

With weddings and parties back on the agenda, the occasionwear market is enjoying a surge in sales.

Benefitting hugely is the much-loved Veromia group, which is firmly focused on that sector. We talked business to the boss and industry favourite, Vivien Felstein

I started with Pronuptia 39 years ago after having my first child and previously working as an accountant with John Lewis.

At Pronuptia, I worked my way up in the business ladder, going from part time sales person to assistant manager and then to manager of the flagship store. I moved into the role of area manager and then became buyer for Pronuptia.

In the year 2000, I launched Veromia along with Johnson Chong and we produced in our own factories in China and Vietnam.

What labels did you start off with?

In our launch portfolio we had the Veromia Bridal and Veromia Couture

78 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

ranges.

In your portfolio today?

Today we have three occasionwear collections. Irresistible is a stylish MOB collection of 35 pieces, designed for the mum who does not want to look traditional. Dressed Up is a plus-size occasionwear brand of 30 pieces, sizes 16-32. With the average size woman now size 18 in England, this market is growing very quickly.

We also have Veromia Occasions which is a guest collection, great for events like the races, and for young mums. It has 35 pieces. The retail price point is amazing and this brand is growing rapidly.

Come and visit us at LBFW stand A24

To make an appointment to view the new collection please email our UK sales agent Billy Fitzsimons on fitzsimonsbilly@icloud.com

www.taniaolsen.com.au

Smartphone Photography Okay, you’re at a show, you’re in buying mode, and you want to share your finds. The newest breed of phones will give you incredible results when you start snapping.

Chris Partridge takes his picks

screens, excellent low-light performance (great for gloomy churches) and lots of effects such as Portrait Mode which creates that lovely, blurred background, known as bokeh, to make the model and the dress, or the bride herself, stand out.

The new Samsung looks like the one to beat. It has a 10x optical zoom and a new ultrawide lens so catwalks and collections on stands can be shot without having to wait for that group finale, or customers to depart. It also one are the days when has an S-pen (a Bluetooth-enabled you needed a bag full stylus) conveniently located in a of expensive cameras slot on the body. This makes editing and unfeasibly large pictures easier, as well as acting as a lenses to take the pictures for your catalogue and ads. Many of the latest remote shutter button. The drawback is the price. smartphones have all you need to However, getting great shots create eye-popping images that will involves more than just a camera. make your social media streams, An essential accessory for fashion website and printed materials really photography is a tripod with a phone stand out.

If your current phone is fairly recent clamp, both to stabilise it for the best quality pics and to keep it in place and high-end, it is probably already capable of taking photos of the quality while you go forward to arrange the pose. But if you are not there as the you need, but the latest generation pro, and want to get material onto of flagship phones have multi-lens your posts as fast as possible, the cameras with massive sensors that much-mocked selfie stick can be take superb images, and the screens useful for holding the phone high in are so large it is possible to edit on the air for a drone-like effect. the phone itself so you can shoot, If you take pictures of jewellery edit and upload your pictures without any other equipment, directly from an and accessories, you may find that the phone’s macro mode forces you exhibition catwalk. to move so close to the item it cuts And video footage is just as out the light, so a clip-on macro lens excellent. The most highly-rated could be useful. Lens makers Moment devices on the market now are the list a macro with a proper glass lens Apple iPhone 13 Pro Max, the Google that either clips on to the phone or Pixel 6 Pro and the newly launched screws into a case (but their cases are Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra. only for iPhones).

All three feature huge, bright

G

80 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

Moment also sells an excellent fisheye lens that can help create some stand-out images, especially of long trains on gowns.

If you are shooting a story in your shop, next in the accessory cupboard should be some good warm lights with diffusers – especially if you are shooting under fluorescent strips – including a ring light that fits around the camera lens. Joby does a range of battery-powered lights with magnets that can be attached to convenient bits of metalwork and controlled from the phone via Bluetooth.

Big time For long photoshoots, a clever gadget worth considering is the ShiftCam ProGrip, which transforms a smartphone into something resembling a ‘proper’ camera, with a big ergonomic grip on one side and a Bluetooth shutter button located conveniently under your index finger, which makes the camera much easier to hold securely. As a welcome bonus, the ShiftCam has a large battery inside that can charge the phone wirelessly, thus ensuring you don’t run out of juice halfway through your shoot. It can also be mounted on a tripod.

Even if you are an experienced photographer, it is well worth taking the time to explore the camera software – the latest Android and iOS camera apps are now very sophisticated, and many extremely useful functions are hidden in the various modes.

Bokeh, for example, is available

only when using the Pro mode.

For many, the standard camera apps is more than powerful enough to produce the results you need, but free apps – such as Adobe Photoshop Express or Snapseed – add features

like cut-outs, dehazing, retouching and noise reduction, plus a load of filters and the ability to create collages and mixes.

The apps make corrections like improving facial tone, removing

unsightly background items, or even ‘opening’ closed eyes, easy to do.

In the real world, one of the most frequently removed items in wedding photos is the by-now ex-husband, but let’s draw a veil over that. WT

FIRST CHOICE The Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra comes with a high price tag, but it really does deliver

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 81

Building Trust Helena Cotter senses the buzz in business today as restrictions lift. Now is the time, she says, to create a firm footing in the marketplace

F

inally (thankfully) there appears to be light at the end of a very long tunnel with two years of uncertainty, lockdowns, closing, opening, mask wearing and WFH etc behind us. The effect of the above and more has had on us has been unprecedented in modern times.

As thing slowly return to normal, you’ll want your customers to feel reassured your high standards have not slipped, old habits haven’t crept back in, and that you’ll be even better than before.

One of the key foundation stones of any retail business is, of course, customer trust. You are asking customers to put their faith in you, your team on the shop floor, your service behind the scenes and the products you are selling. They are literally putting themselves in your

relationship. Customers want to feel you are going to provide the right conditions in a safe, authentic, and caring environment before they will ever buy anything from you.

It is important then to recognise how customers today wish to be able hands. It’s a huge responsibility. to shop. Initially, they tend to want to browse on their own terms in the Figures count digital world, and onwards in their Stats show that 76% of customers preferred ways. pay attention to advertising from Their journey starts from their first businesses they have either used or contact with you, through to their are planning to use. appointment(s), and on to purchasing Try to create a climate where a dress or other goods. customers feel comfortable about Failing to listen to them, and by not how you are portraying your brand; providing the ideal conditions for your the way your message speaks to customers, could lead them to go off them personally, and how you come to find another bridal retailer who they across to them on an individual basis. feel can best meet their needs and Prior to visiting your premises, requirements. And that could lead potential customers will often seek to a potential loss of business and advice and guidance from their family credibility. and friends, and having these people I must point out here that it is spread the word for you really can also important for you to not spread pay dividends. And of course, it’s yourself too thin by trying to be free advertising direct to your target everything to everyone and wanting market! to capture every single customer.

On that note, as some 80% of your Diluting what you do best is not customers will visit your shop via a ideal; hone in and focus on what you recommendation from an existing/ are great at because this will help you past customer, it makes sense to grow your business in a very organic focus on building and maintaining and natural way. trust for the long haul.

Customers are 13 times more likely When thinking about how you can to spread the word about what they grow and develop your business to consider is a bad experience, so it’s incorporate building trust, it is wise as well to be on point when trying to to ensure you consistently deliver a deliver 100% of the time. We are all combination of customer service and internet buyers, we all shop online, care which are two sides of the same so trying to create that all important coin, above and beyond minimum human bond in a bricks and mortar expectations – within reason. premises is even more vital.

Learning how to cultivate a multiRemember my motto: Recognise channel presence online that delivers when good is good enough! the same message across the board This is where building trust starts, at will help you create a consistently the very beginning of this professional positive customer experience.

82 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

The Competition There are always going to be people nipping at your heels; that is the reality of being in business.

Keep any so-called competition in your peripheral vision. There but not there, so to speak.

Focusing too much on what other retailers may or may not be doing – and imagining what they are doing – is not advisable.

Instead, use this energy to run, and grow your own business. Keep your goals in mind, the reasons you started your business and always stay true to your core beliefs, your brand, and any staff you employ. This will have the knock-on effect through to your customers. They’ll love you for it.

Helena Cotter E: info@helenacotter.co.uk W: www.helenacotter.co.uk

TOP TIPS Discover how you can continually delight your customers while building that all important trust factor. ✔ Make it easy for your customers to engage and buy from you.

Customers/shoppers are busy. We are all busy trying to squeeze as much out of our time as possible which is why 84% of customers say they want to save some time. Avoid long-winded and uncoordinated appointments. In my experience, anything over 1¼ to 1½ hours is too long – the customers become tired and start to glaze over.

I am sure you recognise this type of appointment. We have all seen it, and know this scenario of trying to work with a worn-out bride and her party is not conducive to closing sales.

And crucially, it will not leave a good lingering last impression and can most definitely wear away at the trust you have worked so hard to build.

So, streamline your appointments.

This helps to keep the customer (and

us) to stay focused and on point. Take out any areas of bagginess – or log jams as I call them. Keep it lean. ✔ Look for new ways to reduce the effort customers have to make to help ensure they have a seamless shopping experience. ✔ When something looks like too much of an effort, your customers may decide it’s just too complex, complicated, and involved to move forward. One of the ways you can do this – as mentioned previously – is to be where you can find your customers and they can find you. Online and in a physical premises. ✔ None of us are going to give up online shopping so it is advisable to have a strong online presence. ✔ When it comes to customer enquiries/complaints/help and advice, responding quickly fosters further trust in you and your business

Insta: hccoaching Twitter: @HCSalesTrainer Linkedin: Helena Cotter

because customers want quick responses in this fast- paced world we now live in.

30% of customers wish to have a response within a few hours. 31% within a few days. ✔ One sure fire way to help build trust (and avoid mistrust) is to make yourselves more relatable to your customers.

When you create an ‘about us’ page on your website and share a little of your story, it puts a face to the name, and you become more human, rather than a business which is focused purely on money. You will become more approachable. This will go miles in helping you and your customers develop a better professional relationship. Familiarity and similarity help build trust, too. WT

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 83

POST I T note s for keeping you organised and on top of your Facebook Page. You can create your own calendar, or there are several free templates available online, including from Facebook.

Your calendar can be as simple or detailed as you feel comfortable with, and include upcoming industry and social events, promotions, weekly Inconsistent posting of content topics of interest, seasonal trends etc.

However, consistency of direction is not the only thing you need to focus on, Planning ahead can certainly make your postings more consistent and but consistency in both the type and frequency of messages you post. If you ensure you don’t start with a blank publish 30 posts over a month and then sheet of paper each time you need to draft your post. don’t publish for the next two weeks, people may stop looking out for your Failing to provide value Your posts, or read a deeper meaning into Facebook page is a great venue your inconsistency, such as that your for updates on your business, but service may be inconsistent, too. tarting a business page on don’t get carried away, it is not Facebook can take only a Building a following on any social another platform for blatant business few minutes – upload a cover media page takes time and effort, promotion. Your target audience will photo, fill in some details, and once you have started the follow your Facebook page or share write some posts, and invite friends to conversation you want to keep it a post only if they find the content to ‘like’ your page and it’s done! Well, not going. When you post fresh content, be engaging, relevant, informative, quite. That is the simple part, but how it tells the visitor that your Facebook or empowering in some way. Offer you manage your page will determine page is active, which increases the how successful it is. As with most likelihood of them following the page. value by combining a timely mix of things, if you want your Facebook And when you use a similar language content about your business (product marketing efforts to pay off, you in each post they know what to expect. tips, sales events, behind-the-scenes items and photos) and blend in thirdshould avoid a few common marketing Most studies agree that posting party posts that are relevant to your mistakes that many businesses tend once a day is optimal and, as a to make. So let us take a look at a few minimum, you should post three times products or services. Don’t stray too far off your topic! of these: per week. A word of caution though, Regarding getting the right mix of don’t post too often as your followers posts, make sure there is a balance may get fed up with seeing your Not having a plan What would you that keeps people engaged. After all, business name pop up in their news like to achieve with your Facebook feed and unsubscribe. However, there you want your followers to go all the page? Increase sales, generate way to your destination but also buy are events when posting more often traffic to your website, improving something when they arrive. than normal is more acceptable; for your customer service or retention, Try publishing around 80% original instance, when you run a customer or perhaps build awareness of your and curated content that provides promotion, or when you share live business? Put simply, you don’t know value to your followers, and no what options will help you arrive if you updates from an event.

Obviously, we all get busy at times, more than 20% promotional content. don’t know your destination! and things like Facebook posting can Promotional content includes selling Once you know where you are your products or services, posting fall through the cracks. That’s why I going, it is then far easier for you to would suggest that creating a content about how great your customers find work out the route. And once you your business (unless your clients calendar can be incredibly helpful have defined your goal, every post,

With the ability to share your content, communicate and engage with prospective customers and clients, Facebook, if used effectively, can be a marketing powerhouse. Key is ensuring you focus on quality and consistency, says Jason Granville

every comment, every ad you create on Facebook should ultimately be in service of that objective. The last thing you want to do is get your potential customers excited about arriving at your promised destination, and then disappear down an irrelevant diversion.

S

84 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

destination is an effective way to make Boost posts When you post content, progress, but you also have a number Facebook doesn’t show it to your of other tools at your disposal to make entire following. This is done so sure more people join the journey. businesses are motivated to pay a To increase your Facebook Page small fee to boost their content. A Not connecting with the audience Most people use Facebook to connect visibility and give people the chance to word of caution though – use the paidjoin, you need to tell them about it. for approach to increase your follower with friends and family. So, to create Therefore, make sure you take every count sparingly. Overusing this feature interest in your business page, you opportunity to promote your Facebook can provide poor returns, but you must communicate like a ‘person’ Page, link any other social media can use it selectively to benefit your rather than a company. accounts, your website, and advertise business.

Instead of impersonal posts, write For example, by spending a few Facebook posts that show the human your page on your business stationery, menus, marketing material, events, euros on boosting a well-crafted side of your business. For example, piece of content, you can end share employee stories, up growing your following and or upload photos/videos Once you have defined your goal, every generating leads that might of your workplace and otherwise be lost. However, customers. post, every comment, every ad you ultimately, your content must Also, engage with your create on Facebook should ultimately do the job for you. A small followers like a person. investment in time and money, Believe it or not, only be in service of that objective. used intelligently, can go a long around 30% of businesses way if implemented correctly. respond to comments on newsletters etc. You can also easily Finally, while creating a sponsored their Facebook page, missing a huge generate a QR code (those square post, you can also specify the opportunity to directly communicate barcodes you see everywhere) from demographic features of your target with potential or existing customers. the link address from your Facebook viewer, the daily budget for promotion, Respond to all comments and make Page. and for how many days you want to sure your settings (under Manage A simple Google search on free QR run the post.

Permissions) allow for people to Code Generator will bring up several If you generally follow the above post on your page, and your page alternatives. Once you have your QR you will certainly be on the right track. ‘messages’ turned on so that people code, you can easily share it from Happy posting! can send you private messages. your phone, print it in your menus, Want advice from Jason? Contact him Cross promoting Using Facebook to place stickers on your coffee shop at jason.granville@yahoo.co.uk relentlessly lead your followers to the tables etc. post it directly on your page), showing your work or portfolio, promoting your accomplishments, etc.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 85

WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL Every issue we will be bringing you the latest information of new legalities that could affect your business. This is where advice from the experts really matters...

Fashion Law Meets Tech: NFTs, Wearables And The Metaverse GOING LEGAL

Fad or con? Opinions remain divided on the role of NFTs and the metaverse in our daily lives but the trend is being taken seriously by many in the fashion industry, say Millie Pierce and Stephen Sidkin of Fox Williams LLP...

W

hich would you choose – an Hermes Birkin or a Birkin NFT? When earlier this year the Hermes ‘Baby Birkin’* NFT (nonfungible token) sold for US$23,500, the choice became that much harder to make.

No wonder other fashion giants including Burberry, Gucci and Dolce and Gabbana have also ventured into the world of combining NFTs and fashion, which throws up some significant legal considerations.

Wearables These are digital items of clothing that solely exist in this form and can be bought and sold as NFTs. Digital clothing exists for NFT avatars (digital self-forms within the metaverse) or for social media applications. The collaboration between Balenciaga and Fortnite produced a range of clothes available both digitally to game-players and in real life in Balenciaga stores.

NFT enthusiasts can purchase virtual items of clothing, often in an avant-garde form which is then edited so perfectly into their social media images it is hard to tell that the virtual design is not in fact real clothing.

Dolce and Gabbana have taken a somewhat different approach, through launching NFT wearables of its clothes with a platform called Polygon. This format enables the items to exist and be traded across the metaverse. They have also launched an initiative for the items to be available as both physical and digital pieces to combine the virtual world with reality.

BoohooMAN will also run their Black Friday campaign set in an augmented reality which engages virtual spaces within fast fashion as well as luxury fashion houses.

Online games Those fashion brands that are engaged with the metaverse are mostly producing wearables rather than their own online games within the metaverse.

Louis Vuitton, however, launched a collection of 30 exclusive NFTs within

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases. (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

86 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

How can the rights of creators and collectors be protected to stop the copying of these often one-of-a-kind tokens?

Intellectual property rights do not have the fluidity of the metaverse, as such rights can only come within set categories. As a result, it is likely that trademark protection will be the right most frequently relied upon by fashion brands when involved What could go wrong monetarily? with NFTs. This can be seen in The currency of choice in the practical terms, through the number metaverse is cryptocurrency and, most commonly, Ethereum, with many of applications for registration of trademarks by brands and the sites, including OpenSea (the most plethora of trademark classes in popular NFT marketplace) favouring which registration is being sought. the coin.

Bored Ape Yacht Club, for example, However, one key aspect of has attempted to capitalise on its Burberry’s mentioned above is that it does not run on Ethereum and instead success as one of the most sought after NFT projects by applying to uses a private blockchain model which involves the use of less energy register ‘APE’ as a trademark in the United States. This adds to its current and as such is more environmentally collection of registered trademarks friendly. as well as venturing further into With Ethereum, or any other merchandise and music. cryptocurrency, the key issue Certainly, NFT creators may be worrying traders is volatility. Both able to seek trademark protection of NFTs, and cryptocurrency trading the digital forms of their art which are itself, are highly unstable, and most NFT sales rely heavily on the stability often used as avatars by purchasers for their social media personas. of cryptocurrencies.

Many NFTs are sold in themed The surge of online support for the releases such as those produced emergence of NFTs, from celebrities

by Bored Ape Yacht Club which to financial commentators, as well as NFT investors and collectors keeping all feature a digital image of an ape wearing different clothes and a close eye on the next popular accessories, which may lead to a NFT trend to boost their presence brand attempting to capitalise on in the community or make a quick brand recognition in the real world profit, is going to do little to ensure through physical products requiring market stability. The anticipation of additional classes of trademark and investors can be likened to when design protection. cryptocurrencies first entered the NFTs can be displayed and used in market. a range of ways within the metaverse.

This allows digital artwork and And what could go wrong legally? clothing to be displayed and unique As with any new country or land avatars to be used across a range of (whether real or virtual) one of platforms such as Decentraland and the first questions is how do we Roblox. protect property? In the case of the Indeed, it is possible that where metaverse, fashion brands want to NFTs are put on display, such as ensure that the protection that they have in the real world also exists in the in a virtual fashion show, within the metaverse, this may even fall virtual world. under class 41 for educational or Considerable discussion is entertainment services given that the also taking place concerning the protection afforded to NFT artists and NFTs are being exhibited.

Separately, as in the real world, a designers. their own game, which can exclusively be discovered by players. Unlike usual NFTs, these only exist within the game itself and are not able to be sold and traded.

Burberry has also partnered with Blankos to produce their own online game within the metaverse based on a character called Sharky B.

TA K E H O M E POINTS Imagine if an influencer could buy a brand new outfit at the touch of a button with zero waste or you could attend an entirely virtual fashion show and feel as though you are there. This is now reality. No wonder, therefore, that the metaverse is said to be ‘the future of the internet’ and fashion brands are increasingly involved in this new world.

But as with any new world, failure to take care of the brand by putting in place adequate trademark protection will only result in third parties seeking to take advantage as they engage in trade mark piracy and other forms of brand degradation in the virtual world.

failure of fashion brands to adequately set out the terms on which they are collaborating can result in problems, so, too, in the metaverse. A failure by a fashion brand to address the terms on which it is collaborating with an NFT vendor may result in: 1. the NFT vendor using the brand beyond the purposes which had been intended by the brand owner 2. the brand owner being unable to use a digital product in the future in a way in which it might otherwise have chosen to do so 3. or both As in the real world, the answer for the fashion brand is to ensure that any collaboration agreement involving the brand reflects its intentions. WT Millie Pierce is a trainee solicitor and Stephen Sidkin is a partner at Fox Williams LLP * ‘Baby Birkin’ is the name of the NFT piece as the imagery is as if the bag is 40 weeks pregnant. ‘Baby’ is also the colloquial term used for the Hermes Birkin 25.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 87

A warning to retail tenants

GOING LEGAL

Tom Morton and Elizabeth Ruff of Fox Williams LLP explain the dangers faced by those who mistake the Covid rent ‘breather’ for free occupation

property by forfeiture.

However, the Treasury estimates that by March 2022, the amount of unpaid commercial rent arrears could reach £9 billion; its data also suggests that fashion retailers are amongst the categories of tenants who owe the most.

What happens now Rent arrears of £9 billion is not the sort of money landlords will want to s a result of Government write off. Worse still for those fashion support and the general tenants who remain in arrears, the hardship brought by the protection from landlords taking legal Covid pandemic, many action ends on 25 March 2022. fashion tenants allowed themselves As a result, the Government is to fall into rent arrears. Very large bringing in new legislation to replace numbers remain in that position some two years down the line. Whilst the suspension, which will mean compulsory arbitration for certain Government protections remain in Covid-related rent arrears. However, place, after two years they are set the bad news is that it is envisaged to come to an end this month. This might be a big problem for defaulting that such legislation will only relate to: rent arrears incurred in the specific tenants who fail to recognise the periods of enforced Government change in the legal landscape and closures in 2020 and 2021, and are take steps to address it. likely to be sector-based.

Any other arrears from outside The background those periods will remain due and In March 2020, fashion tenants who operated out of bricks and mortar real payable, and the moratorium which has muzzled landlords for the past estate were thrown a lifeline by the Government: if they found themselves two years will no longer be there to protect tenants. unable to pay the rent under their This means that landlords will leases, legislation (in the form of the once again have all the legal tools Coronavirus Act 2020) kicked in and previously available to them under prevented landlords from going to their leases, to pursue unpaid rent Court to recover rent arrears, or from taking back possession of the leased and remedy other breaches. Further,

A

88 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

they might not be in the mood to negotiate. This could lead to landlords commencing Court proceedings to pursue all unprotected historic arrears, or even changing the locks on the property and simply taking back possession without a Court order – known as ‘forfeiture by peaceable re-entry’ – with little warning.

For arrears that did not fall due during forced Government closures in 2020 and 2021 (and therefore are likely to fall outside the remit of the new legislation), tenants need to remember that what they have benefited from has been a temporary suspension of landlord’s rights – not a rent-free period. It has not stopped rent arrears from accruing in the meantime, and it will not stop landlords from pursuing historic arrears insofar as they are not caught within the new scheme.

If the Government figures, and the testimony of real estate professionals up and down the country, is correct, the level of rent arrears relating to periods outside of forced Government closures is still likely to be significant.

Good news for tenants There is, however, one piece of good news for tenants, which is that the new legislation will require landlords to allocate any sums paid by the tenant to ‘unprotected’ arrears first, where the tenant has arrears which fell due both during and outside of the protected periods. This means that if tenants are able to pay off some of the arrears, they will automatically apply to the arrears outside of the new scheme.

Pop-ups Obviously, fashion retail does not exist solely in the context of a traditional leasehold structure. Pop-ups are ubiquitous in big cities and further afield, since they offer short-term deals for business, at potentially less onerous terms than on a long-term commercial lease. Whilst pop-up retail can certainly be a less risky way of getting a presence on the high street, it needs to be born in mind that

TA K E H O M E POINTS • Fashion tenants who have been unscrupulous with rent payments, and even those who have genuinely struggled to stay afloat during the pandemic, must avoid sleepwalking into the end of the moratorium.

because a pop-up is usually done on a licence (as opposed to a traditional lease), it is excluded from the existing protection for tenants under the legislation in the first place.

A lease arrangement is not protected if it is for less than six months, as pop-up arrangements invariably are. In such cases, a welladvised landlord / licensor would be aware that there is no bar on taking steps to end a licence arrangement or

a short-term lease, and that it had the right to pursue all outstanding arrears.

The change in the law will not affect that right. Pop-ups are exposed if they fall behind with the rent. WT Tom Morton is a specialist property litigator and Elizabeth Ruff is a real estate partner at Fox Williams LLP www.fashionlaw.co.uk www.foxwilliams.com

• If they have accumulated rent arrears which are not directly related to specific periods of forced Government closure, they should take stock of their arrears position, and seek legal advice on their specific circumstances in advance of 25 March 2022.

• If they do not do so, there is a risk that all historic arrears they have accrued during the pandemic could come sharply back into focus.

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 89

Bespoke insurance that’s tailored to fit GOING LEGAL

Bridalwear retailers not only stock high-value, luxury and one-of-a-kind pieces, but also have a big responsibility when holding garments ahead of the big day

T

here’s no question about it, your stock holding and samples collections are your greatest expense and the very core of your business. Without them, quite simply, there is no business.

Having the right conditions to store your precious goods is vital, but equally so, is having proper protection in place should a problem arise – you’ll need to get sorted super fast so as to lose as little time as possible making those sales.

Hine Chartered Insurance Brokers, understands the pressure that comes with finding, providing and storing your customer’s order for her special day, and also the need to have your business premises covered at the same time; the right insurance policy, as those who have suffered loss will be fast to tell you, helps to mitigate your risks and that alone is reassuring.

In this industry, we are all aware of the product and service we have to

offer to capture that sale, and also that as a sector in our own right, regular retail insurance cover may not offer adequate protection. After all, it does not, understandably, allow for the high value of the stock we carry, when one single sample might be worth thousands of pounds, and accessories come with a high price tag, too.

Then there’s our fixtures and fittings, often specially designed and made just for us, which we have selected rather than settle for off-the-shelf pieces that can be easily replaced.

All of this adds up to the need for cover that has been shaped with our industry in mind, which is where Hine Chartered Insurance Brokers comes into the picture. They understand the complexities our niche market, and have produced their Bridalsure scheme, designed specifically to met the needs of bridalwear retailers.

According to Hine’s Catherine Brides, their team will work closely with clients help tailor a policy that

90 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

is the perfect fit for the needs of an individual business. They understand that every shop is unique, and that each requires a different level of protection for their stock and their premises, taking into account values, rarity, and even whether products are to be hired out.

“Bridalsure scheme is underwritten by a leading insurer and can be uniquely tailored around your business so that you’re covered for what you need and not paying for any cover that you don’t,” explains Catherine. “We believe in finding you a competitive quote, whilst ensuring the quality of your protection is not compromised in any way.”

As Chartered Insurance Brokers, Hine has shown that they are committed to maintaining the highest standards; mirroring the same level of quality that retailers maintain in their own store and within customer relationships.

We asked Catherine to summarise

EXCEPTIONAL CLAIMS SERVICE their offerings to make the benefits easy to understand: They include: • Up to 50% increase to the stock sum insured for April, May, June, July and August • ‘New-for-old’ cover on claims settlement • Protection for non-returns by a hirer • Automatic cover at trade exhibitions attended • Cover for stock held by your seamstresses •Free access to our claims consultancy service

“If you hire staff, we will guarantee you have the right level of employer’s liability cover in place, ensuring your business complies with legal requirements to avoid substantial fines.”

Worth knowing Should an unexpected event affect your bridalwear business and you are forced to cease trading for an extended period, business interruption cover can protect your business against the financial costs in the meantime, including bills, additional staff costs and maintaining “We can ensure that your business is supplier relationships. fully covered against liability claims This cover feature could be the from members of the public should they sustain an injury, or their property driving factor to get your business back on its feet following an event suffers damage as a direct result of such as a flood, fire or theft. WT your business,” Catherine adds.

Making an insurance claim can be a stressful time, but the team at Hine aim to make the process as easy as possible. Each of our clients benefit from five hours of support from a Chartered Loss Adjuster and are given the option to upgrade their service should they wish.

With our claims service, our clients can expect an: • Immediate response • Rapid settlement • Fair outcome Our aim is simple, insurance that is attuned to meet the needs of your bridalwear business, so you can focus on the finer details.

Hine Insurance Brokers www.hine.co.uk/bridalwear-retailers

M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 91

“Now with so much more freedom – but still playing it safe, of course – my sales team and I have a new sense of confidence.

I have to admit we were nervous when we went to Harrogate in September and I think that dampened our enthusiasm to find new labels and see long-standing ‘partners’. That’s all changed now and we are so looking forward to taking our business to the London Show and sharing a glass of bubbly with old friends.”

All you have to do is get in direct touch: email me – susi@ rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going.

We are for retailers, and about retailers.

FREDA BENNET

“I always listen to whatever Ellie Sanderson has to say – she knows more than most of us, even those who have been in bridal for years – and her advice is invaluable. Her ‘diary’ of what to do and how to plan ahead that appeared in the last issue of Trader, really got me thinking about how I am managing my ‘next round’ thoughts, and I have taken stock of her tips and cannot thank her enough for being the perfect bridal teacher.”

“I so agree with the correspondent in the last issue who commented on the value of the opinion articles that have become so much of the Wedding Trader personality – I suppose that is the real advantage of independence. What I would like to know is how do I get on board when I have something to share that I believe others will benefit from. I’m not talking about a column, like Laura and Sue and Ellie, but just to be called on for a view on retailer topics.”

“Welcome back, Mums.

Our occasionwear business has gone sky high (mind you, over the past couple of years it was down in the depths). The more we talk to MOBs and MOGs, the more we are realising how much they, too, have missed out during Covid. At the forthcoming shows I am looking to take on at least three new occasionwear and outs, labels. Any special forward to recommendations, ladies?

Love to hear them.”

And Finally Up and downs, ins but so much to look

“That Peta Hunt never stands on formality and always tells it like it is.

Reading her column is akin to having a one-to-one conversation and that always makes me smile. I have never heard of some of the labels she talks about, but that’s no worry. Her sheer enthusiasm is inspiring.”

92 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ M A R C H / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

THE HELENA COTTER TRAINING ACADEMY - B R I DA L . E S T. 2 0 0 3 Learn how to work smarter, not harder with a range of Sales Training Courses & services designed specifically for the niche Bridal Industry COURSES INCLUDE In-house training days Online training courses Live chat mini courses Let me help you build a course to suit your professional needs

a a a a

SERVICES INCLUDE

aDirector mentoring aManagement development aTeam building a One to one coaching aFREE ongoing business support.

Investment costs start from just £225 +44 (0) 1582 451238 and +44 (0) 7896 944759 info@helenacotter.co.uk www.helenacotter.co.uk

hccoaching

Helena Cotter

Providing solutions to the bridal industry for over 30 years.

The original shop insurance package built purely for the wedding trade:

• New for old cover on stock • Exhibition cover

• Stock held by seamstresses • Automatic seasonal increase

Get a quote 0161 438 0000 hine.co.uk