Šibenik In Your Pocket No6

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Šibenik Summer 2016

Dry Stone Walls The Bulwark of Mediterranean Heritage

Island Hideaways Escape the crowds

Get Cultural Your guide trough best summer concerts and festivals

N°6 - complimentary copy sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

Voice and choice

Arrival & Getting Around

Nightlife

34

Step out in Šibenik style 5

Lost? Help is at hand

Sightseeing

37

All those things you mustn’t miss

Šibenik Basics 8

Dry Stone Wall 43

Making your stay stress free

Tradition and Heritage

Croatia’s Secret Islands

9

Enjoy tranquility

Culture & Events

12

Leisure

20

Shopping Delicatessen and souvenirs

Restaurants 22

Hotels

Food for thought

Places to stay for every pocket 30

Authentic dishes

Coffee & Cakes

58

Recreational pleasure

Piping hot tips

Local Flavour

44

Nature’s gift to uplift

Festival fun

Šibenik Pulse

Šibenik Surroundings

32

60 64

Maps

81 82

City centre map County map

Giving you a slice of the pie

Photo by Boris Kačan Bavljenac, a small, non inhabited island in the Šibenik archipelago, where dry stone walls create the impression of mosaics or labyrinths.

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Foreword Šibenik is a town on the upswing; a real architectural jewel and yet not as exposed as Zadar and Split. It has its @InYourPocket own unique atmosphere: relaxed and carefree. This year the city is hosting various festivals as it celebrates its 950 birthday. It’s a city that has been — and continues to be — used as an inspiration for countless musicians, comvine.co/inyourpocket posers and songwriters. Its charm lies in the cobblestone streets and the inevitability of interacting with locals.

There’s no specified tourist zone, as the whole city is a museum that begs to be explored. And topping things off is the fabulous Cathedral built by Juraj Dalmatinac, now a UNESCO world heritage sit. The city’s fortresses provide breathtaking views that relieve stress, while an afternoon swim at either Jadrija or Banja beach is a good way to youtube.com/inyourpocket prepare for a night cruising the town’s many cafes. While If you need a little more adventure on your holiday, the surrounding area is filled with national parks and islands that are waiting to be dispinterest.com/inyourpocket covered!

Stay up-to-date facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1848-0365

What’s going on?

Company Office & Accounts Višnja facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Arambašić Šibenik In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by RadinWhere’s Print, Sveta Nedelja the party?

Editorial facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić All the latest news Community Manager Eli Gajinov Design Bojan - Haron Markičević facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket Photography Šibenik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Šibenik International Children´s Festival Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov zagreb@inyourpocket.com Read more reviews online: Copyright notice Text, maps??city??.inyourpocket.com and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. brand here? name In Your Pocket is used NotThe listed under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Overtel.250 ??chapter?? reviews Lithuania (+370-5) 212 29 76). Šibenik (Croatia) Inonline: Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after ??city??.inyourpocket.com publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

COverFull contents online: ??city??.inyourpocket.com story Kid’s colorfull drawings on flags decorate the city More ??chapter?? reviews online: streets during International ??city??.inyourpocket.com Children’s festival. It gets crowded and filled with laughter and joy on every corner.

ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

6 Šibenik In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app - available on both iOS and Android - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Arriving By bus Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a 5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 express buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey time of 4hr 20min. There is an additional handful of Zagreb-toŠibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from 145kn to 164kn one way. Šibenik also lies on the route of many long-distance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south - so arriving here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy.

The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 4 - 5 kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 05:00 - 22:00), information desk (Open 05:00 - 22:00) and a public toilet (07:00 - 22:00). Šibenik Coach Station QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 36 83 68.

Arriving By car From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croatian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an exhilarating ride. Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and the Zagreb-Šibenik stretch will set you back about 147kn (car) or 88kn (motorbike) each way. From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe. However it can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when it might be worth heading inland and picking up the motorway for a stretch or two.

Arriving By plane Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Zadar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar air- Šibenik Tourist Board Archives ports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from Za- Arriving By train dar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from Split Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change expect around 1hr 50min. trains. As of this spring, weekend trains at Knin will be replaced by buses. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković Split Airport-Kaštela on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385- great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb 21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, informacije@split- trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin, but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr. day trips by rail rather impractical. Šibenik train station is about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town. There is a Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar) QZemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax café at the station (Open 06:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.), ticket (+385-23) 20 58 33, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar- office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public toilet, but no left-luggage facilities. airport.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around Main train station QL‑3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99, www.hzpp.hr.

Biking Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There is a bike rental option and the ‘Nextbike’ system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental… FYI, each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

Tourist Punkt Šibenik Plus Rental and delivery of bikes can be arranged by email or phone, and prices depend on the model varying from 100-120 kn per day. This is reduced if rented for a longer period of time. QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, info@ sibenikplus.com, www.sibenikplus.com. Open 09:00 21:00. Closed Sun.

Car rental ABC Rent a car QDraga 2, tel. (+385-) 099 616 37 63, sibenik@rentacarabc.com.

the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office diagonally opposite the jetty. The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the settlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board). Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the mainland by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist excursions operated by travel agencies or with your own yacht.

Jadrolinija Boat lines to Kaprije, Prvić, Vodice, Zlarin and Žirje.QF‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 34 68/ (+385 -22) 20 06 24, ag.sibenik@jadrolinija.hr, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 05:30 - 21:00. Sun Open 08:00 11:30, 18:00 - 21:00. October Open 07:45 - 15:30, 18:00 - 19:30. Sun Open 08:00 - 11:30, 17:30 - 19:30.

Tourist information The local tourist association offices listed in this guide can help you out with a whole lot of information about individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, so you might want to check on their Web sites or give them a call before trekking over.

Euro-san QNova V 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 02 90/(+385-) 091 200 29 00, eurosansibenik@gmail.com, www.euro-san.hr.

Open 08:00 - 22:00. A

Tourist Information Centre QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, tz.grada.sibenika@ si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00. Sep‑ tember Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Oc‑ tober 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Nova QTrg Drage 12, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 099 265 90 95, sibenik@novarentacar.hr, www.imeko.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A

Šibenik Tourist Board QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, tz-sibenik@si.t-com.hr, www.sibenik-tourism.hr.

Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Ferries

Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, info@sibenikregion.com, www.sibenikregion. com. Open 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hopping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a scenic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offering fantastic views of the St. Nicholas sea fort as you pass. Journey times are short, with the whole ŠibenikVodice journey taking just over one hour. Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to, but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless travelling on selected Žirje services.

The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on 8 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Public Institution of Krka National Park QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Association of Tourist Guides “Mihovil” Šibenik QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3 (TIC), tel. (+385) 091 516 37 32, info@vodici-sibenik.hr, www. vodici-sibenik.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

Parking Street parking is split into four zones where parking is charged 1 June - 1 September at rates ranging between 3kn/hour and 10 kn/hour depending on the zone. You can also buy day tickets at 67 - 165 kn. There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga district and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 - 10kn/hour. Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might get towed away by the city authorities and impounded at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemistically named “Služba za premještanje vozila” - the “Service for relocating vehicles.”

How benign! They will kindly return your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The pound is open on working days 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. If you

taxi The easiest way to get a cab is to call (+385-22) 21 21 21; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old Town. The start-up fare is 40kn which includes the first five kilometers, followed by 10kn per kilometre, 5kn per baggage item. We recommend that you check beforehand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

spot the car catchers in the act of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with a fine of just 200kn. More information on tel. 022 218 459, 091 120 08 23 or pauk@ gradski-parking.hr.

Gradski parking QDraga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, info-parking@ gradski-parking.hr, www.gradski-parking.hr.

Public transport Šibenik’s municipal bus service is operated by Autotransport Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00 to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3 (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, passing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the Solaris hotel complex), and the no. 7 (to Brodarica, jump-off point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica), where there is a kiosk (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun) selling tickets and a timetable detailing departures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn - 15kn.

Autotransport d.d.

QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 64 44, autotransport@ atpsi.hr, www.atpsi.hr.

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Šibenik Basics hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

Customs There are no custom limits between EU member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Toilets There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre, it’s open all year round 07:00 - 21:00, costs 4kn, and is a bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’ Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again 07:00 - 21:00, price 4kn.

Visas Croatian Visa Policies are fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

Water

Money

Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

When things go wrong

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco10 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Šibenik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Stjepana Radića 83 (L- 3) where everything necessary will be done.

In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385) 195. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands

Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.

Susak Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.

In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First World War tourism halted and never really picked up again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.

Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s a paradise for families with small children. There are no hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment.

Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring.

Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed to restore fertility.

Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely one of the more intriguing Croatian islands! facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Silba With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century castle, while a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love back home.

Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija UjevićGaletović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic things with the human form.

Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.

Prvić Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.

Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands and the mountains on the coast. Among the children who have been lucky to spend their summers here was Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci.

A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he Summer 2016

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Croatia’s Secret Islands Lopud For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation and good restaurants. was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions in the local museum.

Šolta Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful little marina (www.martinis-marchi.com).

Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić, thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly by experts. Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that were born in Šolta.

The Elafiti Islands The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of times past had their summer homes here, lending the islands echoes of the Renaissance.

Koločep The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!

12 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Šipan The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands, you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer villas. With two settlements this island has a bus service! Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no ferry service. Apart from stumbling over fascinating old buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants.

Gifts for Hungry Loved Ones One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So what better gift for those back home than something to nibble?

Ground Wild Fennel The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings.

Contact (+385-) 91 588 84 09, marica.marasovic@gmail. com.

Grisinia A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.

Olive Leaf Tea Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj.

Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Croatia’s Secret Islands The Captain’s Cookies Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries.

Contact: mantunovic87@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 165 07 77 Marija Antunović.

Pag and Brač Island Cheese Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia, with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole country. Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora brands.

Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar, Brač, aktiva.brac@gmail.com, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98, (+385-) 91 594 52 79.

Lumblija Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was apparently the recipe of a French soldier who presented a cake to his island beloved on his departure with the words “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised as lumblija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can order a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula, iskravlasich@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.

Krk Island Pršut To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why generations of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is a product that varies depending on the environment and the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+38551) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00 - 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00, Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).

Salt Petals Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr Macaroni Needles One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slender tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66 36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00).

Deck Your Home With Croatian Goods Wool Slippers from Cres Island Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the herbscented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and environmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, cres.ruta@gmail.com, www.ruta-cres.hr.

Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepoglava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of lacemaking.

Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic yet chic decoration.

Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, grad-pag@zd.t-com.hr, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00 and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 - 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30.

Lipa Rugs A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made using traditional island techniques from remnants of fabric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor. Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84, lipa1@windowslive. com. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress.

Stone Pestle and Mortar Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grinding spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098 907 04 68, drazenjaksic40@gmail.com, also in Split in the basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre of Korčula town.

Kunjska spara A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and still do) carry on their heads on their return home from the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45, marija.grdas@ zd.htnet.hr.

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Culture & Events

Šibenik Chanson Festival Archives

Famous People Arsen Dedić (1938-2015 ) If you’re in a Šibenik café and you hear some old crooner warbling from the sound system then the chances are it will be Arsen Dedić, the Šibenik-born poet and singersongwriter who has ruled supreme as the king of Croatian chanson ever since his first album Čovjek kao ja (A Man Like Me) was released in 1969. Dedić’s best-known songs are wistful evocations of past loves, accompanied by sophisticated piano-and-orchestra backing. Easy listening perhaps, but with balls.

Maksim Mrvica (1975- ) A product of the Croatian Academy of Music and the Budapest Conservatoire, the Šibenik-born pianist is one of the world’s prime practitioners of popular classical music, selling albums by the bucket-load in a range of global markets - especially in the Far East where Mrvica is a major star.

Male-model looks and extravagant stage-shows have all played their part. Look up the 2003 hit album The Piano Player (EMI) to find out what all the fuss is about.

Mate Mišo Kovač (1941- ) Born in Tribunj north of Šibenik, Kovač was one of Croatia’s (indeed Yugoslavia’s) biggest selling pop stars of the Sixties and Seventies, and still is a stadium-filling attraction. His songs are melodic and sentimental in a way that’s traditional for the Adriatic coast, and with long black hair, bushy moustache, and glinting medallion strategically hung around the neck, he remains every inch the old-school Dalmatian charmer.

14 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Dražen Petrović (1964-1993) Of all Šibenik’s native sons, Dražen Petrović is the one who inspires most in the way of unconditional love and respect - not just in Croatia but across the sporting world. The extraordinarily gifted basketball player won trophies with Šibenik, Cibona Zagreb, Real Madrid, Portland and New Jersey before his tragically early demise in a car accident.

Named European Player of the year six times, and posthumously enrolled into Basketball’s Hall of Fame in 2002, he was a unique and irreplaceable talent.

Goran Višnjić (1972 -) The most immediately recognizable product of Šibenik is Goran Višnjić, who played Dr Luka Kovač in ER from 1999 until 2008. Before that he was famous for playing Hamlet at the Dubrovnik Festival seven years in succession, and for his role as Risto the driver in Michael Winterbottom’s Welcome to Sarajevo in 1997.

Currently filming the Millennium Trilogy (based on the Scandinavian crime novels of Stieg Larsson), his face looks likely to remain stamped on the popular consciousness for some considerable time.

Juraj Dalmatinac (“George the Dalmatian”; born early 1400s, died in 1473 or 1475) Born Juraj Matejev in Zadar, the Adriatic’s greatest 15th-century architect was already an established stonemason in Venice when he was invited to Šibenik in 1441 to take over a cathedral project that was losing direction.

Juraj immediately set about making major changes, applying the up-to-date construction techniques he had sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events learned in Italy to develop curving roof-surfaces for the cathedral’s roof and domes made from an interlocking sequence of long rectangular stone blocks.

Juraj’s work on the cathedral was conducted in fits and starts, continually interrupted by lack of funds. Dalmatinac was never short of work elsewhere, however, taking over from renowned Italian architect Michelozzo Michelozzi as Dubrovnik’s chief military engineer in 1461, and laying out the new town of Pag in 1466-67. He also worked in the Italian cities of Urbino and Ancona.

Dalmatinac never got round to finishing the famous roof of Šibenik Cathedral, his work being brought to fruition by his successor Nikola Firentinac.

As a sculptor, Dalmatinac is best remembered for his work on the apse of Šibenik Cathedral, where the line of stone heads emerging from the wall (thought to be portraits of Juraj’s contemporaries) remain full of life to this day.

Nikola Firentinac Not a great deal is known about “Niccolo of Florence”, except that he was probably born in Florence and certainly studied there, possibly as an apprentice to great Renaissance master Filippo Brunelleschi. He was invited to Šibenik to work on various parts of the Cathedral in the mid-1460s, and took over the whole project from Juraj Dalmatinac after the latter’s death in around 1475.

It was under Firentinac that the cathedral’s famous roof was completed, and art historian remain divided as to whether Firentinac simly applied what he had learned from his predecessor or came up with innovative solutions of his own. Firentinac cemented his reputation as a great architect and sculptor with subsequent works: his Chapel of St John in Trogir Cathedral represents one of the high-points of Adriatic Renaissance art.

Exhibitions 12.07 thuesday - 11.08 Sunday Papaya Vehabović: Zlatan Foundations in the mud Dubbed a rising star on the art scene, though one must admit that he has already left a mark on the local front.

Vehabović is a painter whose works touch, reach and intrigue; stimulating the thought processes with particular motifs such as abandoned houses, shelters in the forest, children playing, beached whales, boats in crisis, tents in the wild, human figures without faces in juxtaposition to portraits. Contemporary iconography of nature and pop culture! QD‑4, City Museum, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik.hr.

15.07 Friday - 22.07 Friday Friends of the Sea For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of 60 large-format photographs taken during the ‘blue hour’ i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the morning, just facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the Adriatic are set to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire of love and respect for one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. The works have been selected by the expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’.

25.08 Thursday - 11.09 Sunday Sea, people, coast A traditional exhibition since 1971 which gathers and presents artistic works of the sea, sea landscapes, Mediterranean plants, vineyards, Dalmatian towns with their narrow streets and monuments, as well as their people.

See this part of the world through the eyes of so many Croatian and foreign masters; the exhibition turns into a celebration of colours, lines and surfaces.QD‑4, City Mu‑ seum, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www. muzej-sibenik.hr.

Special events 18.06 Saturday - 02.07 Saturday Šibenik International Children’s Festival Established in 1958, this event bridges the city of Šibenik with its youth. The festival is famous not only for its performances but also for its creative dimension, encouraging kids to get involved with different art forms: drama classes, puppetry, musicals and theatre, film, literature and painting. So there are workshops galore, educational training, world presentations and more! The event is spread across different areas of the city.QVarious locations across city centre, www.mdf-sibenik.com.

05.07 Tuesday - 10.07 Sunday Salsa Beach Splash Festival See world artists and dance companies from Africa to Latin America perform at the ‘Solaris Beach Resort’, a stunning lagoon packed with pools, bars, restaurants, sunshades, and more. As a bonus, a free stage lit party will be held by Saint James Cathedral with a dance programme and a band performing live on Friday, July 8th. Rio look out!QSolaris Beach Resort (Solaris Hotel Resort), www. salsabeachsplash.com.

Šibenik International Children’s Festival Archives

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Culture & Events 07.07 Thursday - 15.09 Thursday Traditional Acapella Evenings One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional acapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday evening in the Šibenik square.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II, Mala loža, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Concerts start at 21:00.

11.07 Monday - 11.08 thursday Musica Appassionata Festival Classical music devotees come hence forth as this event brings together some renowned musicians both local and abroad.QVarious locations across city, www.hnksi.hr.

11.07 Monday - 17.07 Sunday Off Yoga Festival No matter if you love yoga or never tried yoga, the slogan here is all about promoting healthy life through yoga.

Eminent national and international yoga teachers are here to teach, hold lectures and offer workshops relating to this growing world phenomenon. Traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayuverda, Zen, Tea Ceremonies, Meditation, and Qi Gong are additives to spruce up the entire experience. Health is wealth!Qtel. (+385-) 095 196 62 35, offyogasibenik@gmail.com.

14.07 Thursday - 16.07 Saturday The 10th Off Jazz & Blues Festival A three day jazz jostling, blues burning fešta as the locals would call it. Held since 2007, this musical treat continues to grow as it draws respectable Croatian and world

A MASTER OF LIGHTNING This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic memory led him to flourish in school. Although he failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe.

The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, awarding the best in show films or other works made about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the United States and Europe. With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest scientists the human race has ever seen.

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English Brass Academy Summer Festival Archives, Photo by Željko Krnčević

jazz/blues musicians and is set in the picturesque stone ambience of the Ivan Goran Kovačić Square. The opening night of this jubilee edition includes the Tamara Obrovac & Matija Dedić Quartet as well as the Mike Sponza Band. The second evening showcases Bow vs. Plectrum and Kries and finally the Miro Kadoić Sextet and Esma Redžepova top off the closing night.QF‑3, Trg Ivana Go‑ rana Kovačića, www.offfestival.net.

22.07 Friday - 29.07 Friday English Brass Academy Summer Festival Renowned British trumpet player Paul Archibald sets up a great opportunity for all brass players aged 16 and above where here congregates leading brass and percussion teachers, some of whom are from the finest European orchestras and together they develop innovative and creative courses in the field; they also offer educational performance opportunities for brass and percussion players. Qwww.englishbrassacademy.co.uk.

24.07 Sunday - 29.07 Friday Supertoon International Animation Festival Is animation your fascination? Then why not have six days of it… The festival encompasses short animations, children’s animations and dedicated film all of which can be seen through 120 carefully selected works. Also new is ‘animated music videos’ and ‘animation commercials’ which are growing in popularity. The festival takes place at various city locations but the so called headquarters or festival centre will be at the Matija Gallery (Studio Gallery Sv. Krševan) which will be the meeting place for all visitors and authors, but also a place of learning, exchanging ideas and more. Film for fun! Film for the future!QVaroius loca‑ tions across city centre, www.supertoonfestival.com.

25.07 Monday - 30.07 Saturday The 6th Šibenik Dance Festival Dancing is like dreaming with your feet and this is Šibenik’s favourite dance event of the year. Six days of morning workshops and evening shows in front of the Cathedral, on St Michael’s Fortress and on the National Theatre stage with up to 250 dancers and choreographers alike.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske, St Michael’s Fortress, Croatian National Theatre, www.sjene.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 28.07 Thursday - 06.09 Tuesday The Island of Obonjan A culmination of international and resident DJs make Obonjan an eclectic paradise each and every day. From dusk till dawn, the sounds of ambient electronics, sunset soundtracks, reggae remixes, and late night raves are totally on the agenda. DJs include Young Marco, Johnny Nash, DJ Shadow, SLC presents: Alexandra Roxo, Saul Williams, Willis Earl Bay, Zoe Cormier, Roy Ayers, Daniel Pinchbeck, Midland, Robert Rowland-Smith. Another interactive component is the music talks and workshops.QObonjan Island, www.obonjan-island.com.

29.07 Friday - 30.07 Saturday Regius Festival The dock of the TEF port in Šibenik will be home to two days of alternative music for all to see. By bringing bands from Croatia and neighbouring countries and by promoting good neighbourly relations, organisers are actively working to reduce the negative aspects of nationalism among young people in the region. Music unites, music is might!QTEF dock port, www.regius-festival.com.

06.08 Saturday Sweet Sound of Summer Supersonic electronic music event that has for nine years given Šibenik and its social calendar a buzzing sensation!

Talented DJs from the area worship the stage as it’s a platform for them to enchant an audience and help lead them to bigger and brighter things. Each year, at least one well known DJ graces the turntables.QJadrija.

18.08 Thursday - 21.08 Sunday Deboto Festival In the heart of the summer season, the 2nd year of Deboto aims at bringing a combined selection of cutting edge music to the streets of Šibenik. Lots of jazz, house, funk, electro, disco and hip-hop will envelop the city. One can expect a fusion of live performers with both local and international DJs providing the buzz and we mustn’t forget the local cuisine which is very much part of the festival, particularly wines, delicacies and spreads. Bringing the best that Šibenik has to offer in terms of wines, delicacies. Stay tuned for further details!Qwww.debotofestival.com.

19.08 Friday - 20.08 Saturday Šibenik Chanson Festival This ancient city has chanson music carved in its very stones and the schedule is proof of that. The first, is an evening of international music and the second evening is a dalmatian chanson. All artists will perform live, together with the festival orchestra and ensembles.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske, Summer stage, www.sansonasibenik.com.

02.09 Friday - 04.09 Sunday The Fair in Medieval Šibenik Travel back in time and see Šibenik as it once was with actors retelling local ancient tales, plus street walkers, facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

traditional folk costume and dance, gastronomy, knights, craftsmen and more. The event honours the feast of Saint Michael, patron to the city. You know those portrait faces surrounding the apsidal wreath around Saint James’ Cathedral; this is when their spirit comes to life.QOld City streets and squares, www.sibenik-tourism.hr.

14.09 Wednesday - 18.09 Sunday Dalmatia Film Festival (DFF) The debut of the DFF will take place in three cities: Pirovac (12-14/08/16), Omiš (19-21/08/16) and Šibenik (1518/09/16). The international film festival will include fulllength features, documentaries and promotional tourism films. The films being considered for the festival will be be selected by the five-member jury from works between 2015 and 2016, and the final program will be made public by the end of July. In addition to the film screenings, the festival will include lectures, film workshops, panel discussions and various exhibitions. Follow the festival website and social media pages for more information on the film program and supporting events. Entrance to the open-air festival is free of charge.QF‑1, Barone Fortress, info@dalmatiafilmfestival.com, www.dalmatia-filmfestival.com.

St Michael’s Fortress Summer Stage 24.06 Friday Gibboni Gibonni is one of Croatia’s biggest musical talents: from singing, to songwriting and producing. Born in Split in 1968, Gibonni’s talent pushed his career to take off in the 1980’s with the most popular genre of the time: hard rock.

It wasn’t until the fall of Yugoslavia in the 90’s that his solo career began to develop. With nearly 20 solo albums to his name, Gibonni remains one of the most popular musical performers to this day with countless fans at home and abroad. QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 160kn.

12.07 Tuesday Ero the Joker This is Croatia’s most successful comic opera and the only Croatian opera with recognition abroad, having been played at 80 world theatres. It is played in three acts by Jakov Gotovac and based on a folk tale. The plot is about Mica, a young lad who is torn between love and money, and chooses eventually to listen to his heart.

13.07 Wednesday Rade Šerbedžija i Miroslav Tadić So what happens when actor Rade Šerbedžija, known for his roles in Hollywood films teams up with Miroslav Tadić, one of the world’s most interesting flamenco guitarists? The answer is a blend of traditional Macedonian Roma, Croatian folk, chanson and ballads from famous national composers. Tadić’s innovation is combined with Šerebedžija’s mindful yet strong, deep and expressive voice.QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 120kn.

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Culture & Events 28.07 thursday Vraćam se tu - An evening with Arsen Vraćam se tu is a song written by the beloved late singer/ songwriter Arsen Dedić and in his honour, his son Matija Dedić, a famous Croatian jazz pianist, will perform his father’s most popular songs. Definitely a stroll down memory lane!

12.08 Friday Đani Stipaničev Croatian singer, actor and musician, and most of all opera tenor, is a well-known star of domestic rock operas and musicals, known best for his vocal abilities and theatre engagements. Stipaničev performs his original songs and a fine arrangement of classical hits.

13.08 Saturday - 15.08 Monday Motovun Film Festival on Mihovil Perhaps Croatia’s most famous and most loved film festival of small and independent productions; the films screened at Motovun will be showcased up on the hill in Šibenik for all guests and aficionados of film.

Sport events 06.08 Saturday Raslina Swimming Marathon Who says you can’t holiday and swim a marathon at the same time? For some, swimming long distance is leisure! Over 250 competitors took part last year, and more is expected this year. Choose from the 5km (80kn entry fee) or 1.5km run (60kn entry fee), there are 3 children’s races also. Held at Lake Prokljan in brackish waters, you can find competition rules and the registration form at www. raslina5km.com.Qwww.raslina5km.com. Šibenik Dance Festival Archives, Photo by Ante Baranić

10.08 Wednesday - 14.08 Sunday Tuna Fever With over one hundred competitors and dozens of racing boats, the competition is fearsome but most of all fun.

Four fever pitched days have action on and off shore too.

Visitors are also able to view the promotion of products and services, presentations of fishing knowledge and skills, take pleasure in the culinary delights but also focus on the four; fishing tradition, cuisine, tourism and entertainment.QRogoznica.

The Garden Music Festivals 29.06 Wednesday - 06.07 Wednesday Love International After a decade of the Garden Festival its new successor is Love International. £120 for 7 days and 7 nights (club and boat parties are extra) there is a lot to look forward to. The event is in the coastal town on Tisno and brings together some of the world’s leading underground DJs and producers, namely Axel Boman, Ben UFO, Bicep, Craig Richards, Dixon, Eats Everything, Gerd Janson, Horse Meat Disco, Hunee, Jackmaster, Job Jobse, Joy Orbison, Midland, Motor City Drum Ensemble, Prosumer and Roman Flugel and many more.Qloveinternationalfestival.com.

07.07 Thursday - 11.07 Monday Electric Elephant Festival A celebration of music where not a single genre dominates, each day has a specially themed name such as ‘Love’, ‘Kaoz Theory’, ‘Secret Sundaze’ amidst others. Electric Elephant harbours many fans each and every year, simply because the atmosphere is so harmonious and special.

Look out for Andrew Weatherall, Bicep, Boo Williams, Greg Wilson, Kerri Chandler, Optimo, Nick Höppner, Steffi, Unabombers…QThe Garden, Tisno, info@electricelephant. co.uk, www.electricelephant.co.uk.

20.07 Wednesday - 27.07 Wednesday SuncéBeat 7 Seven years running, the beats bounce on at Suncebeat with a feast of world DJs, party starting live acts and guest PA’s to help make sure that punters get that heartfelt experience. With R&B, soul and hip hop the crowning jewels of sound, choose to chill at either the Beach Stage, Main Stage and new to this year, the Olive Grove. Jazz-funk legend Roy Ayers is dubbed this year’s star of the festival, together with British act The Brand New Heavies. Look out for Henrik Schwarz, Joey Negro, Prosumer, Osunlade, Terry Hunter, Mike Dunn, Black Madonna, Mike Servito, Jeremy Underground, Hunne, Antal, Grant Nelson, Opolopo, and many more.QThe Garden Resort, Tisno, info@ suncebeat.com, www.suncebeat.com.

28.07 Thursday - 01.08 Monday Movement Croatia From Italy to Croatia, Torino to Tisno, the Movement Festi-

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sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events val is moving to our shores and for the right reasons. Beach side bars, boat voyages and the Barbarella Club will resonate with this new 5 day electronic music festival (house and techno) that has a jumbo packed list of DJs including Abou Samra, Adriatique, Agoria, Alex Dima, Alex Ground, Alex Nilmar, Andrea Introvigne, Angelo Perna, Barac, Baraso, Ben Klock, Bronski, Caruan, Clod, Cosmo, Cristian Viviano, Crocodile Soup, D’julz, Dave Clarke, David Morales, Davide Squillace, Denis Beifuss, Derrick May, Dj Soch, Eli Verveine, Enrico Zaninotto, Frank Storm, Fumiya Tanaka, Germano Ventura, Gianni Callipari, Giovanni Verrina, Herya, Holdyouth, Howl Ensemble, Jan Krueger, Jerome Pacman and the list has already doubled.QThe Garden, Tisno, www. movement.hr.

04.08 Thursday - 08.08 Monday Soundwave Croatia An eclectic musical experience waits at one of Europe’s most friendly and intimate festivals. Laid back indeed, hear some of the latest and greatest exponents of broken beat, reggae, afro to acid jazz, hip-hop, soul, funk, drum and bass, and more. The artistic side returns with street artists, mural artists and illustrators transforming the festival site into a canvas of colour and flair. Here’s a small snapshot of performers; LTJ Bukem, Congo Natty, Jazzanova, Pharoahe Monch, Calibre, Mala, Craig Charles, Fatima & The Eglo Live Band, Gentlemans Dub Club, Channel One Sound System, Riot Jazz, Romare, Harleighblu and more.QThe Garden Resort, Tisno, www.soundwavecroatia.com.

11.08 Thursday - 15.08 Monday Defected Croatia One of the most famous house music brands ‘Defected’ comes to Croatia to light up the Adriatic. Expect all-day beach sessions with daily boat parties for that true outdoor clubbing experience. The full festival repertoire embraces sub-themes such as Defected in The House, Strictly Rhythm, Glitterbox, and others plus the finest house artists and underground DJ talents backed by a state of the art production. So who’s playing you ask? Basement Jaxx (DJ Set), Dennis Ferrer, Julio Bashmore, Kenny Dope, Roger Sanchez, The Shapeshifters, Guti (Live), Nick Curly, Osunlade, Noir, Riva Starr, Sandy Rivera, Tube & Berger, Sonny Fodera, Sam Divine, Franky Rizardo, &Me, Adam Port, David Mayer, Purple Disco Machine, John Morales, ANOTR, Dario D’Attis, Eli Escobar, Fred Everything, Worthy, Luke Solomon i Simon Dunmore, DJ Spen, Crookers, Joss Mooog + many more.QThe Garden, Tisno, defected. com/croatia/.

20.08 Saturday - 26.08 Friday Emerging Festival All the way from Ibiza and now to Croatia, seven days of festival fever swarms towards Tisno for this next new kid on the block event. The aim is to bring to the stage a selection of the world’s hottest new and upcoming underground talents, uncovering a new generation of future icons. Stay tuned for line-up announcements.QThe Gar‑ den, Tisno. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Denis Ferrer, Defected Festival Archives

01.09 Thursday - 05.09 Monday Dekmantel Selectors New to the festival scene and all the way from Amsterdam, the focus here is on the art of DJing and looking at the talent and complexities of this craft. The 5 day event has a limited capacity of only 1500 tickets available where patrons are beachside by day and Barbarella’s Club at night.

A huge line-up of artists include the likes of Andrew Lyster, Call Super, Jan Schulte, Jon K, Joy Orbison, Juju & Jordash, Motor City Drum Ensemble, Nick The Record, The Wizard, Palms Trax, Vakula, Will Bankhead, and Young Marco. And they’re just the night owls!QThe Garden Resort, Tisno, dekmantelselectors.com.

County Events 24.06 Friday - 25.06 Saturday Traditional Folklore Festival Betina Each year this festival showcases, for its visitors, traditional music and dances from all around Croatia.QTrg na moru, Betina, Murter, www.tz-betina.hr.

25.06 Saturday Festival of old wedding customs Forget the fancy shmancy limousines, the wedding planner, bridal party and so on. Here visitors will be able to see and participate in exhibitions, ethno workshops, fashion shows and demonstrations of old customs from the Pirovac area. Weddings in particular!QRudina Square, Piro‑ vac, www.tz-pirovac.hr.

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Culture & Events 02.07 Saturday - 03.07 Sunday Ana Rucner and Marko Škugor Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. Marko Škugor is a young tenor from Šibenik who thrills audiences with his voice and performances in traditional Dalmatian klape (acapella groups) and as a solo artist. A cultural delight!QRogoznica, www.loverogoznica.eu.

17.07 Sunday 4 Tenors Some of Croatia’s leading vocalists combine as one to present an evening of traditional Dalmatian songs. One can expect a lot of love, passion and goose bumps as Marko Škugor, Marko Pecotić, Đani Stipaničev and Vlado Garić sing up classics to Modern day.QRogoznica, www. loverogoznica.eu.

21.07 Thursday - 24.07 Sunday Vodice Jazz & Blues Festival There are those who unashamedly love jazz and those who live for jazz. See the lads and lasses of the eminent Croatian and world jazz scene with versatile styles of music from classical swing, rhythm and dixieland, to the more contemporary genres such as fusion and free jazz.

QObala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice, www.vodice.hr.

Starts at 21:30.

23.07 Saturday Awakening of the Dragon Rogoznica A unique staging of the ancient legend of ‘Lake Dragon Eye’ and the dragon named Murin, which will be held along the Rogoznica waterfront. Witness a story of true love that transforms the world, a story of courage, love, loyalty, and the triumph of good over evil. A fairy-tale world of dragons, wizards, knights and maidens, and become part of the legend.QRogoznica, www.loverogoznica.eu.

30.07 Saturday Games on korenat Locals call it Igre na korentu and it consists of two teams the mainland locals versus the island locals. They compete in different games of endurance, speed and power on the sea. The key is that the korenat sea currant around the Tisno channel is quite powerful and is used to create obstacles for the contestants.QTisno Bridge, Tisno, Murter Island, www.tz-tisno.hr. Starts at 20:30.

01.08 Monday Murterski Pir (Traditional Wedding Customs) See the forgotten traditional wedding customs of old from this island. Witness the parade where all the participants are dressed in costume and dance traditional folklore on the main square, a dance of special rhythm and choreography but without music. Customs such as the bride having pirovnjaci who carry the bride’s dota, an old treasury chest filled with bed spreads, clothes, garden tools and a 20 Šibenik In Your Pocket

mandrel for winding wool. Then the locals give all attendees wine, and…. Well you’ll just have to see the rest for yourself.QMurter, www.tzo-murter.hr.

01.08 Monday - 03.08 Wednesday SuperUho Festival Another zesty Zagreb festival event bringing top class acts to a faithful audience. It includes acts such as ‘Peter Hook and The Light’ an English rock band formed in 2010 by the former Joy Division and New Order bassist, Peter Hook. Their set list is jam packed with tracks from his former bands’ earlier works. Singer/song-writer Mark Lanegan also performs having released 6 solo albums, and having played in Screaming Trees and Queens of the Stone Age. Alternative rockers Mudhoney also appear and have been an inspiration to many bands within the genre.QPrimošten. super‑ uho.festival@gmail.com. Tickets 220-290kn 04.08 Thursday Vodice Fiesta The sparks are flying and this is one of the night in August deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music can be heard at all city squares in all cafes; the town comes to life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party type of atmosphere.QVodice, www.vodice.hr. Starts at 21:00.

09.08 tuesday International Donkey Race Are donkeys as stubborn as people say they are? Come and see this traditional race that has over the years turned into an international event. It is unique in promoting and preserving donkeys, considered the authentic Dalmatian animal.QCentre, Pirovac, www.tz-pirovac.hr.

01.09 Thursday - 06.10 Thursday Days of the Latin Sail A traditional event which features rowing, sailing, exhibiting, eating and learning! The regatta ‘Latin Sail’ will be held on September 24 at the Murter Hramina Bay. September turns educational with workshops, a junior sailing course, lectures, and other educational extravaganzas. Visitors can also enter teams who are keen on a splish and splash with a paddle.QMurter, www. latinskoidro.hr.

Summer schools 01.08 Monday - 10.08 Wednesday The 23rd Summer School of Organs Out of 19 organs in the Šibenik diocese, 10 are historical, 4 are monuments and 5 are modern. That is why this annual event gathers excellent international lecturers who are all renowned organ players and is educational with seminars and workshops. There will be concerts in the Šibenik Cathedral and surrounding churches.QJ/K‑2, Organum Society, Mosećka 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 94, www.organum.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Pulse We asked three locals - who live or work in Šibenik - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Public Institution For Managing Protected Nature Areas Archives

Igor Bergam President of the P.A.R.K Association ŠIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Igor: I usually drink my morning or afternoon coffee at cafes Skipper and Domald on Šibenik’s Riva.The choices for going out in Šibenik are very slim, as far as my tastes are concerned, so on the weekends if I go out I’m usually at the Azimut club. ŠIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Šibenik?

Igor: For rest and relaxation I usually go to small nearby places by the sea around Šibenik. I often go there on the weekends; take a walk along the sea and sit on a bench or on a small beach. It’s also great to go to one of the islands in the Šibenik archipelago, especially outside the tourist season. For example, now in the spring when staying there is a true relaxation for the body and soul. I prefer Prvić Luka, where my late grandmother, Vera, was born. ŠIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Igor: To get to know Šibenik, I definitely recommend walking around the old town where literally on every 22 Šibenik In Your Pocket

corner there’s something interesting to see. Afterwards, take a tour of all four of Šibenik’s fortresses which each have their own story;it’s definitely not to be missed. ŠIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir to take home from Šibenik?

Igor: As a souvenir from Šibenik I recommend some small handmade trinkets made from natural materials that are done by talented people as a hobby of love.

They are special and unique and better in every way than factory-made souvenirs that can be found along the streets of any tourist town. Their stands can be found at various craft fairs or at local summer cultural events. ŠIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend trying?

Igor: The best cooking I’ve ever tasted is from my grandmother Janja, who cooked real Dalmatian food her entire life. I definitely recommend everyone to try the bean stew with pasta and pork shanks, cabbage stew with cooked pancetta, Šibenik pašticada, and gnocchi with escalope in sauce. Then there’s fish, which is best when cooked on the grill, Šibenik fritters for dessert, and homemade wine from the surrounding area and homemade local grappa as an aperitif. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Pulse Joško Lokas Owner of the Etnoland Dalmati park ŠIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Joško: Any cafe on Šibenik’s Riva. ŠIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Šibenik?

Joško: Raslinska beach :-) ŠIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Joško: A walk through the old town centre. ŠIYP:Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir to take home from Šibenik?

Joško: The most authentic souvenir of them all - a Šibenik or Drniš hat. ŠIYP:Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?

Joško: Homemade risotto with veal and prosciutto from Drniš.

Silvija Ćaleta Head of Promotional Activities for Krka National Park ŠIYP: Where is your favourite place to go out at night?

Silvija: Cafe bar Makari Club on Banj beach which has a gorgeous view of Šibenik (the old part).

ŠIYP: Where is your favourite place for rest and relaxation in Šibenik?

Silvija: A walk across the St. Anthony channel to St. Nicholas’ fort or St. Michael’s or St. John’s, from where there’s a beautiful lookout. The place is isolated enough for some moments of relaxation. It’s romantic for couples or in company. ŠIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Silvija: Walking through the local markets where you can experience the true mentality of the people see the products of local manufacturers. Continue your tour in the old town centre with their original stone houses, narrow streets, balconies which hang clothes in the Mediterranean way, the various smells of the medieval garden of St. Lawrence, to the UNESCO cultural monument: St. Jacob’s cathedral. And a walk along the coast. Besides walking, I recommend renting a bicycle or scooter and tour the surrounding area (Skradin, Krka National Park, Drniš or the coastal pearls of Primošten and Rogoznica). ŠIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir to take home from Šibenik?

Silvija: Dalmare shopping center. For souvenirs I recommend local grappa, sherry or Babić — which is the best wine from our Vinoplod winery —or some jewelry with motifs from Šibenik’s traditional costumes. ŠIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend trying?

Silvija: You can choose from any local bistro type restaurants where you can eat from the daily menu,like how local people eat, or go to the restaurant Pelegrini next to the Cathedral, which this year was voted among the best Croatian restaurants. In any case, you cannot leave Šibenik without tasting the prosciutto, cheese or sweet fritters. I wish all our tourists a warm welcome and I recommend you to relax and enjoy yourselves.

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Restaurants Gradska straža Located on the waterfront in the Old Town, this adorable little restaurant has Mediterranean written all over the menu. Recommendations include goulash, stews, beef, cod, tripe, pasta, eel, stuffed peppers and more. The A La ‘Carte menu is nifty too as are the typical wines from the Šibenik area.QF‑4, Uskočka 12, tel. (+385-22) 20 03 36, mariogojanovic111@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(40 - 130kn). T­J­A­G­B­X­W

Tri Piruna Restaurant Archives

In a country renowned for its diversity of culinary culture, the Šibenik region offers a wealth of gastronomic attractions. As well as the best of Adriatic cuisine, there is a profusion of distinctive local delicacies too. Šibenik county is a major wine producing region, with vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast. The most common local wine is the outstanding red babić, although imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babić comes from Primošten, although good-quality Babić is also cultivated along the whole of Šibenik county’s coast.

Traditional Barun Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining room with views towards the green olive plantations surrounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik diners out this far.QPodsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 66, matebarun77@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 450kn). P­A­L­G­B­W Dalmatino A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items used as décor. ‘Konobe’ or village taverns, typically house smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this eatery has all of the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats that are prepared in traditional ways.QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića 1, tel. (+385-) 091 542 48 08, konoba.dalmatino@ gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 00:00. (70 - 150kn). P­T­J­ N­G­B­X­W 24 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Kanela A small tavern with five tables inside and slightly more on the outdoor terrace, Kanela is arguably the most traditional of the eating establishments along Šibenik’s Riva, with an exposed-stone interior hung with old-style lanterns.

Fresh fish, pork chops and crustaceans are grilled on an open hearth that’s visible at the back of the dining room.

Veal or octopus baked under an ember-covered peka is on offer if you order well in advance.QE‑4, Obala dr.

Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 49 86. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P­i ­T­N­ G­B ­X­W Konoba Nostalgija It’s a family affair and you’ll feel like you’re part of the Ujević kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and very affordable menu where brunch sandwiches will get you prepped for your day out and dinner includes risotto, gnocchi, pasta, and fish galore. Rustic interior is grand, open till late, has WIFI and an outdoor patio.QF‑3, Biskupa Fosca 11, tel. (+385-22) 20 02 17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06, nostalgija. sibenik@hotmail.com, www.nostalgija-sibenik.com.

Open 17:00 - 23:00. (70 - 100kn). P­A­G­B­X­W Marineo restaurant Located in the heart of the Old Town of Šibenik and with a stunning view of the Cathedral, this small restaurant is one of those rare gems which offers delicious authentic Dalmatian cuisine, nonchalant service and great value for money. The romantic set up on the terrace is second to none. Worth a visit so don’t miss it!QE‑3, Dobrić 1, tel. (+385-) 099 212 58 19, marineo.sibenik@gmail.com, www.marineo.net. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn).

T­J ­6­N­B­W Pelegrini Occupying a renovated medieval building just up the steps from Šibenik Cathedral, Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone historical authenticity and contemporary design cool. Bruschetta, home-made ravioli and risotto number among the light snacks and starters, while the mains feature a lot of recipes that mix modern fusion (Teriyaki trout) with Adriatic tradition (red mullet with lentils). The wine list is extensive and offers plenty of choice when it comes to ordering by the glass. High quality cuisine and service, deservedly high prices.QC‑3, Jurja Dalmatinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, reservations@pelegrini.hr, www.pelegrini.hr. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. (130 - 165kn). P­J­A­G­ B­X­W sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Peškarija The name of this hostelry means “The Fish Market”, so no prizes for guessing what’s on the menu. Peškarija has a pleasant terrace with a sea view.QC‑3, Obala palih omladi‑ naca 4, tel. (+385-) 091 111 27 27, uozlatnitulp@gmail. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 500kn). P­J­A­L­G­ B­W Rivica Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Rivica is a traditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent.

QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 91, damiraras@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (40 140kn). P­i ­T­A­G­B­X­W Tomaseo A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while taking in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts are well-prepared and reasonably priced.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 92 54, konobatomaseo@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 145kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W Zlatna ribica Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled, baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings.QKrapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00, tudic@si.t-com.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn).

P­A­L­G­B­X­W

Beer halls Pivnica Toni If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listening to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the place for you. It has long been a favourite among the local musicfan fraternity: the walls are covered in Šibenik-related pop memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mišo Kovač, and any number of lesser-known local acts that never quite made it onto the national stage. One wall is reserved for sporting heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball icon Dražen Petrović hogging the limelight. The outdoor facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

terrace is a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on summer evenings.QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 78 60. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (35 45kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W Šubić Beer house very much in the heart of Šibenik! Sizeable area with food and drinks served and beer available on tap. Live music indoors…QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića 1, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 00, janaiante1@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W

International Highlander Restaurant ambience with original Dalmatian iconography interwoven amid the rustic interior. With over 120 dishes on the menu, good luck choosing your meal and where to sit as dining is available indoors, out on the square or on the terrace. Their wine list is second to none when it comes to the finest local and national drop.QE‑3, Pribislavića 1, tel. (+385-) 095 834 55 67, restaurant.highlander@ gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (90 - 150kn). P­J­A­ G­B­X­W Stari Grad For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot.

As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat and fish dishes.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 28 64, starigradsibenik@gmail.com. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). P­i ­T­ J­A­G­B­X­W

Italian Gastro Italiano Si signore! Sizzling wood oven gourmet pizzas and other Italian specialties as well as traditional Croatian delicacies dominate the menu; that can all be trickled down with a fine choice of wines. Located close to the Hotel Solaris Resort.QPodsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris Beach Resort), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94/(+385-) 091 490 99 88, gastroitaliano@yahoo.com, www.gastro-italiano.hr.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (35 - 125kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­ B­X­W

Lamb Marin Standing beside a major junction on the main ZadarŠibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stop-offs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here to sample the spit-roast lamb - a specimen can usually be seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the car park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a mixture of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The Summer 2016

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Restaurants menu covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire too, with fish and squid figuring strongly.QKapela 61, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70, marinorlovic1965@gmail. com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (35 - 140kn). P­i ­A­L­G­ B­X­W

fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves plenty of its original stone and timber.QZlarinska obala 8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75, abiberica@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. (45 - 140kn). i­T­6­N­B­X­W

Torcida This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads through Boraje. You can choose succulent lamb peka style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring your Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for a discount!QDonje polje 61, Donje polje, tel. (+385-22) 56 57 48, info@ restoran-torcida.hr, www.restoran-torcida.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). P­i ­A­L­G­B­W

Core Lounge Bar & Restaurant Situated in the Kornati National Park, Vrulje Bay to be specific is where the beauty of nature meets the beauty of superb food and adventure. Refurbished from top to bottom, visitors can enjoy the wonderful panoramic views on offer. It is also a place where one can relax, or go for organised teambuilding activities such as sailing, fishing, jogging and trekking. Accommodation available!QVrulje Bay, NP Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 200 40 45, info@corekornati.com, www.core-kornati.com. Open 09:00 – 23:00. P­i ­T­A­B­X­S­W

Out of town Drniš Kod Baje This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves up many traditional staples that have disappeared from more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in (thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth homecured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a bag made from intestines) - a combined platter of the two is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven.QMate Grubišića 14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. (40 - 60kn). P­i ­T­A­G­B­X­W

Islands Aldura Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and

Hotel Olympia, Vodice Archives

26 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Fešta In the ACI marina on the island of Žut, this restaurant run by the Mudronja family mixes the standard repertoire of main-course fish and lobster with innovative starters such as conger-eel pate and various fish carpaccios. Homebaked bread and a well-stocked wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit. The restaurant also has a small shop selling groceries and other supplies to yachtsfolk.

QUvala Golubovac, Otok Žut - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 099 347 35 19, restoran-festa@zut.hr, www.zut.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (120 - 500kn). T­A­6­G­B­X­W Four lions Attached to Zlarin’s only hotel is this big dining area spread beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with plenty that’s freshly-caught it functions as a café too, with chairs and tables right by the waterside.QZlarinska obala 15, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 21, four.lions@hi.t-com.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00. (40 - 90kn). P­i ­T­6­N­G­B­X­W Kapelica Traditional food in an old green-shuttered house in an alleyway just off the shore, to the left of the ferry landing.

The interior features lots of homely red brick, and an open hearth for grilling and baking traditional fish dishes. The big list of desserts includes a lot more than the usual pancake fare.QObala II 22, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 93, dragocuravic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (40 - 80kn). i­T­N­G­B­X­W Opat Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening. Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been caught that day, and baked-fish mains.QOtok Kornat 183, Uvala Opat Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473 25 50/(+385-) 091 224 78 78, dupin.opat@gmail.com, www.opat-kornati.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (120 - 340kn). i­A­6­G­B­X­W sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Žut Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating under a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the specialities.QACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55/(+385-) 091 760 56 11, restoranzutkornati@gmail.com, www.restoran-zut. com.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (90 - 150kn). P­i ­T­A­ 6­G­B­X­W

Knin Tvrđava Knin’s sole charming restaurant is right at the entrance to the town’s one main sight, lodged in the former gatehouse of Knin fortress. Grilled meats, pork chops and roast lamb are served up in a characterful two-floor building, with an appealingly grassy outdoor terrace offering some stunning views.QFra Luje Maruna 1, Tvrđava, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 33 51 92, res.tvrdjava1@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 90kn). T­A­6­G­B­X­W

Konjevrate Konoba Vinko One word says it all - homemade! Visit this wonderful family-owned konoba situated on the road from Drniš to Šibenik. They breathe local dishes including famous Drniš prosciutto, Velebit cheese, and baked dishes under the iron bell to various rakija (grappa), liqueurs, cakes and deserts - all can be found at this beautiful local tavern.QUz cestu 57, Konjevrate, tel. (+385-22) 77 87 50/(+385-) 098 979 34 10, www.konobavinko.hr. Open 10:30 - 22:00.

(60 - 120kn). P­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

Murter Boba Boba’s large contemporary-style dining room still has a homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf in the corner and an open hearth on which food is prepared - delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order it a few hours in advance.QButina 20, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 948 52 72, konobaboba@net.hr, www.konobaboba.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (65 - 130kn). P­A­6­ G­B­X­W Borovnik If you are in Tisno and craving for a hearty breakfast, then look no further! The restaurant within Hotel Borovnik, offers a 60 kuna continental breakfast with sparkling wine included. Children under the age of 6 are free and kids from 7 to 13 pay half price. What can we say! There is no better way to start your day!QTrg Šime Vlašića 3, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 97 00, info@hotel-borovnik.com, www. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

hotel-borovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 12:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 21:00. (40 - 150kn). P­i ­T­A­6­L­B­W Čigrađa With a terrace running along the side of cicada-serenaded Čigrađa bay, this is probably the most romantically-situated of Murter’s restaurants. The food is first class too, with squid, shellfish and fish dishes prepared to a high standard and backed up by potent local wines.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 05/(+385-) 098 46 19 87, cigrada@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). i­T­A­L­G­B­X­W Fabro With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of maritime scenery. It can be quite hot and sunny here well into early evening although as night falls it is a wonderfully romantic place to dine. If you are travelling out of season the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend an evening. Fresh fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.QŽabićeva 7, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61, mudronjadamir@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 200kn). P­i ­A ­G ­B ­X­W Kezo An unassuming doorway leads to a surprisingly large and homely space, with a pair of huge wooden tables at ground-floor level and an expansive seating area upstairs under the rafters. Kezo’s substantial and inexpensive pizzas are the most popular items on the menu, although there is plenty in the seafood and steak departments to keep more ambitious diners happy.QButina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 965 89 56/(+385-) 092 301 96 58, uokezo@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 160kn).

P­i ­T­A­V­G­B­X­S­W Tic Tac The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gastro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu, although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.

With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening dining, although it can be difficult to find a table in season.

QHrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/(+385-) 098 86 46 19, info@tictac-murter.com, www.tictacmurter.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 200kn). P­T­ A­6­G­B­X­W Tunga Re Summer-only restaurant set back from the seafront in a small stone house - you may well have to wait before being seated. Most people come here for the tasty pizzas, although there is plenty of choice on a menu that also Summer 2016

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Restaurants takes in pasta dishes, salads and fried squid.QTurčinova 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 50 28. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(30 - 100kn). T­6­N­G­B­X Vratija se Šime A few steps away from Hramina beach, this large walled garden with seating underneath a timber canopy is a pleasant place to end up after a taxing day spent working on the sun tan. Pizzas from a log-fired oven form the backbone of the menu, although Šime also offers the standard repertoire of traditional grilled meats and seafood dishes, with baked squid being the standout.QLuke 57, Murter, tel. (+385-) 099 350 22 40, konobanona4@gmail.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). P­6­I­N­G­B­W Zameo ih vjetar Announcing itself as a “marisqueria” (a Spanish term meaning seafood bar) in big letters above the entrance, “Gone with the Wind” is a moderately upmarket establishment serving up fresh shellfish and crustaceans in smart, uncluttered surroundings. You can inspect the fare in tanks and trays before you actually order. The large and leafy walled garden at the back is an evocative spot in which to linger over a meal.QHrvatskih vladara 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 44 75, zameoihvjetar@hotmail.com. Open 12:00 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­6­G­B­W

Pirovac

Mediteran A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side of the dining area for those who just want a glass of the house wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard.QPut briga 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 44 59 45/(+385-22) 57 17 80, u.o.mediteran@si.t-com.hr, www.mediteranprimosten.hr. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (100 - 150kn). P­T­ A­6­G­B­X­W Torkul Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul offers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (including among other things nautical photographs, a life belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (notably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you have the time to call in and order it in advance.QCrnica 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 06 70/(+385-) 098 33 75 15, tomislav.bonjolo@si.t-com.hr, www.konoba-torkul. com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). T­A­6­G­B­ X­S­W

Rogoznica

Nono Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to create a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies good-quality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but not overburdened with kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octopus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered lid. It’s a familyrun place and the wine and prošek come from their own vineyard.QTrg domovinskog rata 5, Pirovac, tel. (+385-) 099 224 45 84, konobanonopirovac@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (30 - 150kn). i­T­A­G­B­X­W

Antonijo Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogoznica’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic seafood from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish in between.

Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yachting marina across the water.QObala kneza Domagoja 35, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 54, restoran_antonijo@net.hr, www.restoran-antonijo. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 200kn). P­A­6­L­G­ B­X­W

Primošten

Skradin

Kamenar An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative seafood pastas and risottos will suit the light-lunchers, while steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Local Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to the finest fish.

QRudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten, tel. (+38522) 57 08 89/(+385-) 098 33 62 46, tomislav.jurin68@ gmail.com, www.restaurant-kamenar.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 375kn). P­i ­J­A­6­G­B­X­W

Bonaca Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastronomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and only using the freshest ingredients - the owner is himself a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric interior features exposed stone and brick with nauticallythemed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor terrace looking down towards Skradin marina.QRokovača 5, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44, bonacaskradin@net. hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 350kn). J­A ­6­U­G­ B­X­W

28 Šibenik In Your Pocket

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Cantinetta This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has earned an enviable culinary reputation on the back of locallyinfluenced dishes such as rabbit stew and roast lamb. The fish and shellfish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised to order it at least a day in advance.QAleja skradinskih svila‑ ra 7, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 24/(+385-) 091 150 64 34, cantinetta.skradin@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­X­W Pini Good home cooking in an interior that blends traditional bare stone with modern minimalist design touches, or in the walled garden with its open kitchen. There is a good selection of grilled meats and fish, with locally caught local mullet or peka-baked squid the stand-out dishes.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 26 64 95, bistro@pini.hr, www.pini.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (80 120kn). P­i ­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W Vidrovača Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatically-situated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions include shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

(including kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, although they should be ordered a few hours in advance.QVidrovača bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 75 72 81, vidrovaca@gmail.com, www.vidrovaca. com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300kn). T­6 ­N ­G­ B­X ­W Zlatka If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inexpensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant rosemary bushes. The family-recipe pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying.

QGrgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39 09/(+385-22) 77 15 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (38 - 85kn).

P­T­A­G­B­X­S­W Zlatne školjke A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront, the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure to leave room for the owner’s own-recipe skradinska torta.

QGrgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 22, zlatneskoljke@inet.hr, www.zlatne-skoljke.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­W Summer 2016

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Restaurants Tisno Broščica A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior, wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a covered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily specials offering excellent value for money.QPut Broščice 12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11, kresimir.cudela@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (35 - 150kn). P­i ­T­A­V­G­B­X­W Gina Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attraction although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spirits.QPut Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, gina@gina.hr, www.gina.hr.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 140kn). P­i ­T­A­6­N­G­ B­X­W

Tribunj Šimun This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure. Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among the principal culinary draws.QUlica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 523 60 04/(+385-22) 44 68 12, antjugov@mail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W

Vodice Bash Bash Food Bar Feeling bashful! Bash Bash will lift your spirits with their Mediterranean fusion style cuisine which focuses on using traditional fresh ingredients from known local grocers and then preparing dishes in an innovative and modern way. Take black pasta with shrimps for lunch, or scrambled eggs with spring onions and zucchini for breakfast. They go the extra mile here without any quick fix makeovers!QVodice. Obala Vladimira Nazora, tel. (+385-2) 44 21 92, Open 09:00-15:00, 118:0023:45.

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

30 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Pelegrini Restaurant Archives

Bistro Gulož A romantic eatery small in venue and size, but it’s the food the people want and come back for. Menu dishes are based mainly on fish and seafood as well as homemade fish paté, burgers, salmon, tuna, swordfish, and fine bruschetta. Home grown spices at this time of year make all the difference.QObala matice Hrvatske 14a, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 900 21 45, Open 17:00-24:00 6­BN

By Gušte In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essential in season.QMirka Zore bb, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201 75 93, maliguste@hotmail.com, konoba-guste.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). A­G­B­X­W Makina Riva-front restaurant decked out in the style of a traditional Konoba or tavern and offering a broad range of traditional Dalmatian fare, from seafood baked under a peka-style metal lid to grilled fish, grilled meats and fishy-flavoured pastas. The adjoining Makina caffe bar is a popular spot for kicking off an evening, with DJs and occasional live music acts generating a party atmosphere.

QIve Juričev Cote 20, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 00 15, vodice.makina@gmail.com, www.makina-vodice.hr.

Open 12:00 - 02:00. (25 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­6­E­ G­B­X­W Tri piruna Local delicacy with a fine track record! Enter a typical Dalmatian tavern (konoba) with some great food on offer.

High on the ‘recommendation list’ is tuna steak, Florentine steak, black risotto… Sea food is also hot on the menu!

Wines are local and the service advice is at the right price.

The music and the décor all fit the experience!QUl. Pave Roce 5, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 576 7751, tri.piruna@ gmail.com, www.konobatripiruna.com. Open 18:00 23:30. A6­B sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Quick eats Bounty Dolac A simple and pleasant place on the waterfront where you will find freshly prepped meals from breakfast to dinner.

Menu highlights include beef burgers, vegetarian falafel, home fries, fresh fish and a whole lot more. Prices are pocket-friendly knowing you’ll walk away content.QA‑2, Obala prvoboraca 28, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 49, bdulibic@yahoo. com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (30 - 130kn). P­i ­A­S Buffet Šimun Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada (beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime standards.QFra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 74/(+385-) 091 174 32 88, josip.simun@gmail.com.

Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 60kn). P­i ­T­ N­G ­B ­X ­W Marenda A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the barrel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing.QE‑2, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/ (+385-) 091 893 60 30, kmazalin@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (20 90kn). P ­i ­T ­J ­N ­G ­B ­X McDonald’s Philistines of the world unite! There are moments when we just can’t live without those golden arches. Dip your nuggets here at the Dalmare shopping centre.QDal‑ mare centar, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 20, sibenik@hr.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (7 - 40kn). P­T ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W Zvone This low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of homestyle cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay.QFra Jerolima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69. Open 07:00 22:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 50kn). P­i ­G­W

Vegetarian Do-Ručak Craving a healthy breakfast or lunch made from organic ingredients, Do-Ručak is the perfect take-away which is located in the heart of town, opposite the City Library and Krešimir Park. Freshly squeezed juices, cereals, pastries, legumes, veggies and daily sandwiches are just some of the delicious delights.QG‑2, Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 2, tel. (+385-) 095 198 92 19, dorucak.sibenik@gmail.com. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

wine tasting Bibich Tasting Room In the little village of Plastovo near beautiful Skradin there is a hidden jewel which has even had the famous TV food icon Anthony Bourdain visit not so long ago.

The Bibich family have been producing wines for generations and these can be found in the finest restaurants across the US and Europe.

Up to eight course meals are on offer for the entire wining and dining experience, not to mention the stroll through their serene winery.QPlastovo, tel. (+385-) 091 511 90 20, estate@bibich-wine. com, www.bibich.net. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

P­T ­A ­6 ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W Vina Rak Tasting Room Fancy a drop! Visitors and tourists alike can taste and sample the domestic production of authentic Šibenik wines such as Babić, Maraština and Rose, better known as Opol in the Dalmatian region and at the lovely Vina Rak Vinoteque, located in the heart of Šibenik.QE‑2, Ante Šantića 1, tel. (+385-) 098 65 20 36/(+385-) 099 724 15 68, vina-rak@ hotmail.com, www.vina-rak.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P­J ­N Vino&Ino A wine bar that houses over 60 wines from all parts of Croatia and is loyal to wines from the Šibenik area in particular. What gives it that extra edge is that everything inside is Croatian made, therefore the owners also promote and sell products by several young Croatian artists (jewellery, clothes, sun glasses etc).

The scent of coffee also prevails as the store promotes Croatian coffee, coffee cups and teaspoons.

QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića bb, tel. (+385-) 091 250 60 22, vedran@vinoiino.hr, www.vinoiino.hr.

Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­ A­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W Wine bar Kamerino Located in the old city centre behind St. James’ Cathedral, this exquisite wine bar with its chic modern design and exclusive offer of Croatian wines only, is integrated within the City Museum.

The bar bears the name of its street location and where according to legend, the master Croatian Renaissance architect Juraj Dalmatinac used to live.

There is a terrace for that breath of fresh air.QD‑4, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 43 33, ivo. mocic@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­ J­N ­G ­B ­X ­W Summer 2016

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Local Flavour real delicacy of the Skradin-Krka area is the eel (jegulja, known locally as bižot), which is lighter in texture and taste than the more fatty eels found in the Neretva delta further south.

In a country renowned for its diversity of culinary culture, the Šibenik region offers a wealth of gastronomic attractions. As well as the best of Adriatic cuisine, there is a profusion of distinctive local delicacies too.

Local Dishes Fish and shellfish The waters of the Adriatic are packed with all manner of fish. Fine white fish such as John Dory (kovač), Sea Bass (brancin) or Sea Bream (orada) is usually grilled and served whole (complete with head, tail, skin and bones) - using knives, forks, fingers and teeth to prize away all of the white meat is an essential part of the experience. Fish on restaurant menus is usually priced by the kilogramme - a fish that weighs about 300g-400g is usually sufficient for one person. Many restaurants do however serve individually-priced fish fillets, aware that foreign visitors often find the whole fish-ordering process a bit confusing. The standard accompaniment for fish is mangold (blitva), a green vegetable full of healthy minerals.

Cheaper varieties of fish such as anchovies (srdele or inćuni) are often marinated in oil and serve as excellent snacks or as an accompaniment to a round of drinks.

Squid (lignje) is one of the most popular items on local restaurant menus, served grilled or fried in breadcrumbs.

The Šibenik-Skradin area in particular is famous for its shellfish, and if you are crossing the bridge over the river Krka you will see bobbing floats on the surface of the water marking the oyster beds. Due to the Krka’s clear waters the local mullet (cipalj) has a more delicate taste than elsewhere in the Adriatic and is a common feature of restaurant menus as a result. Moving only slightly upstream, the Krka is also famous for its freshwater trout. Another 32 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Roast meats The maquis-covered hinterland of central Dalmatia provides ideal grazing land for sheep, which can be seen nibbling away on grasses and herbs on the plateau between Šibenik and Knin. Roast lamb on a spit is a popular local dish, and roadside restaurants on the main out-of-town routes frequently entice travellers to pull over by roasting a whole animal in the yard outside. Roast lamb is served by weight with on-the-bone cuts frequently included in each portion - so don’t be too shy to use your hands.

Lamb is usually served with several shoots of spring onion.

The other traditional way of preparing local lamb and veal is under a bell-shaped metal lid known as a peka.

The method requires a big open hearth, with a log fire to generate the heat. Meat and potatoes are placed in a fire-side pot and covered with the peka lid, which is then covered in hot ashes. The ashes are periodically renewed as the first lot start to cool. The whole process takes about two hours, and results in a wonderfully tender and succulent meal.

Skradin specialities Veal is also a basic ingredient in Skradinski rižot (Skradin risotto), with the meat cooked slowly for twelve hours (or two days according to some purists) and the rice being added only at the end. Traditionally this is a ritual dish, cooked by the men of the town on the eve of a major feast day. Nowadays you will find it on restaurant menus in Skradin - although you should stick to the best Skradin restaurants if you want to eat a version of Skradinski rižot that has been authentically slow-cooked.

Skradin is also famous for the Skradinska torta, a cake that looks like a traditional sponge cake but has a totally different kind of succulence, largely due to the fact that it is made without any flour - the cake’s texture comes instead from the ground almonds and walnuts that form its prime ingredients. Flavoured with orange peel, honey and rose-petal brandy, it’s a mouth-wateringly delicious culinary discovery for those who haven’t had the good fortune to visit Skradin before. You’ll find it on the dessert menus of most of the town’s restaurants.

Sheep’s-milk cheese Typical of the Drniš area is sir iz mišine, a sheep’s-milk cheese that is matured while hanging in a tube of sheeps’ gut. The smooth-textured cheese has a distinctive aroma and taste, and should definitely be sampled if you see it advertised on the menus of local restaurants.

Olive oil The whole of Šibenik county is covered in olive plantations. Olive groves that were allowed to run wild in the latter half of the 20th century have been returned to culsibenik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour tivation, and new saplings can be seen sprouting from stony slopes all around the region. Murter is a major centre of olive oil production, although most production is on a small family-farm level and it is difficult to find locallybottled oil in shops. Many of the locals sell their oil on souvenir stalls in the centre of Murter town in the summer months. The Zlatna Ribica restaurant in Brodarica produces oil which is hot-pressed rather than cold-pressed (so it doesn’t qualify for the ‘extra virgin’ label) but it does have a smoother taste and texture as a result, and is very good for general kitchen use. It is sold at their own oil press (uljara) on the island of Krapanj.

Wine and spirits Šibenik county is a major wine producing region, with vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast.

The most common local wine is the outstanding red Babić, although imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babić comes from Primošten, although good-quality Babić is also cultivated along the whole of Šibenik county’s coast.

Biggest local winery is the Šibenik-based cooperative Vinoplod, which produces top-quality Babić alongside mid-price wines like Plavina (red) and Debit (white), and inexpensive table wines. Based near Skradin, the Bibich winery produces excellent mid-price autochthonous wines such as red Plavina, dry white Debit, as well as innovative barrel-aged blended wines, and international strains such as the quality red Sangreal Shiraz. Spirits specific to the Skradin area include rakija od ruža (rose-petal rakija) and liker od žižula (liqueur flavoured with berries from the jujube tree).

Maraština Maraština is an old Dalmatian wine sort which can be found along most parts of the Croatian coast and is common on the Dalmatian mainland. It is a late bloomer so sunshine and warmth are the key ingredients for its growth.

It has a yellow or golden/yellow colour, with a discreet and pleasant aroma. At the 6th Wine Festival held in 2011 in Skradin, maraština took out all the major awards in the white wine category. Winemakers Dragutin Dobrović from Pirovac and Ivica Džapo from Oklaj received awards for the best white bottled and corked wines.

The Foodie’s Guide 03.06 Friday - 20.06 Monday Kornati Lamb Days With summer just around the corner, the Kornati Lam Days, is a unique event which aims to promote the Kornati way of life through their products, services, and natural beauty.

Organized by the Kornati National Park and the Tourist Board of Murter-Kornati from June 3rd to 20th, guests will be able to visit a variety of participating restaurants to sample their best lamb specialties for a fixed-menu price of 220kn. With plenty of food, dalmatian music, and the sun and the sea, it’s definitely worth a visit. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

23.06 thursday & 24.09 Saturday Bakanalije Turn Roman for one night in Vodice and its surrounding fields which are a perfect backdrop for staging an ancient feast dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine and merriment. Participate in a parade of dance and song aimed at blessing vineyards and calling for a good crop. Reminisce the glory of Rome with ancient music, dance, recipes, food and wine.QVodice, www.vodice.hr.

24.06 friday Drniš International Cheese Festival Cheese lovers get your palettes ready with a banquet of various cheeses ready for trial. Over 50 exhibitors in attendance with the aim of promoting the production of cheese making and encouraging the creation of brands of indigenous and traditional cheeses. In addition to cheese producers, there are exhibited producers of other agricultural products (ham, honey, wine, oil, etc.) QDrniš, www.tz-drnis.hr.

02.07 Saturday Fešta o šaše i pulente Try a Dalmatian specialty which is prepared and cooked along the Vodice Riva according to traditional recipes. Šaša is a tasty salsa type sauce served on palenta grounded cornmeal boiled in water; add to that some local spices and this was the favourite of all meals amongst farmers in the good old days.QObala Vladimira Nazora, Vodice, www.vodice.hr. Starts at 19:00.

07.08 Sunday Brganja Day A brganja is a traditional tool which is used to gather shells from the seafloor. Brganja Day is a day full of good food, good music, fireworks, and of course shells. There’s also a special regatta - Dlan i veslo or Palm and Paddle which sees the womenfolk race in old traditional wooden boats. Fun for all and then some!QBetina, Murter, www. tz-betina.hr.

21.08 Sunday An evening of olives and olive oil The entire Adriatic coast is blessed with olive trees and producing olive oil has been tradition here since yonder.

This event gives olive growers a stage to exhibit and promote the variety of natural products made from olives including soaps, oils, scents, and more; some recipes are family secrets handed down from one generation to the next.QVodice, www.vodice.hr.

02.09 Friday - 03.09 Saturday The 3rd International Prosciutto Festival Welcome to a competitive culinary event which has smoked prosciutto the essential theme, although there will be many other homemade foods to be tried and devoured. It’s great for networking within the industry and it’s even better when the sampling sessions come around’.

QDrniš, www.drnis.hr.

Summer 2016

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Coffee & Cakes

Moderato Cantabile Archives

Cakes Kavana Life Palace Located within a Renaissance building which a stunning hotel, the ground floor houses a café and pastry shop like no other. Around 20 fresh cakes are on offer each day which enhance the ritual of sipping on coffee. Choose from the beautiful terrace or stunning palace like interior.

Must see place for an all-round relaxing rendezvous!QE‑3, Trg šibenskih palih boraca 1, info@hotel-lifepalace.hr, www.hotel-lifepalace.hr/en/homepage/. Open 07:00 24:00. P­B­W Castrum Coffee & more Right on the fortress of Saint Michael, this café offers scenic views of the Adriatic whilst choosing from coffee or freshly squeezed juice amongst other beverages. The bake their own fresh cakes and have a variety of types and flavours on offer. Cold salads and platters can also be ordered. Castrum is the right place for a little break from sightseeing.QC‑2, St. Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, Open 08:00 - 21:00 , tel. (+385-) 099 445 90 11, castrum@castrumsibenik.hr, www.castrumsibenik.hr. W

Coffee Barone Bistro Cafe style bistro within the Barone Fortress with beautiful panoramic sea views where throughout the entire day visitors can pop in for coffee, but also for those a bit more peckish they can try small fine snacks of marinated seafood or local meat delicacies such as prosciutto and šokol.

34 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Sample wines from small local producers; Maraština, Babic, Debit, Plavina...QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A­W Giro espresso One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - including some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one of the most popular places in town for a midday caffeine-fuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd.QE‑3, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66, giroespresso@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W Gradska vijećnica With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out the cake of the day.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 36 05, ivo.mocic@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 01:00. T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W Hendrick’s Bar A contemporary bar with an urban Mediterranean feel that is hot on the heels of ‘drink it up’. They also offer an assortment of freshly squeezed juices, an even larger sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes selection of ‘more beer, more beer’ and other alcoholic beverages to get your evening going. On friday nights enjoy open air concerts.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 16, maestro_barista@yahoo.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. X­W Moderato Cantabile Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenikborn melody-master Arsen Dedić, this roomy café is something of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor terrace and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within.

After recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits perfectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a brew. The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque.

They serve cakes!QG‑2, Stjepana Radića 1, tel. (+38522) 21 20 36, cantabile-torte@hotmail.com, www. moderato.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00.

P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt Sv. Lovre café (The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence Café) If you value your daily coffee break as your personal moment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquility, the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather than floating miserably in a pickle jar.QD‑3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, cromobens@ si.t-com.hr, www.spg.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J­ A­6­B­X­W Trapula Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers familiar international pop-rock territory.QB‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 12. Open 08:00 - 02:00. September, Octo‑ ber Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­ N­B­X­W

Out of town Leopold Much favoured by the locals for that all-important first coffee of the morning (not to mention any of the numerous coffee breaks taken subsequently throughout the day) Leopold’s corner-of-the-square position makes it the ideal spot to keep track of comings and goings during the day - and provides a front-row view of the nightly-parade of sun-bronzed holidaymakers that takes over the town in summer. With a strawberry-and-cream interior and chic elliptical tables, it offers serious competition to Murter’s other bars in the design stakes too.QRudina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 989 24 80, josipjuraga1@net.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­T­N­B­X­W facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Castrum Coffee And More Archives

Castrum Coffee And More Archives

Makari Club Archives

Mirage A popular meeting place day and night, Knin’s premier café-bar is cheerful and chic in equal measure, with easy chairs the colour of orange peel arranged around circular black tables, and a floor-to-ceiling curving window looking out onto the main street below. If you can’t squeeze into a seat here then the similar Café Baltazar, in the same building, is a worthy alternative.QVukovarska 2, Knin, u.o.mirage@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­T­6­ N­B­X­W Vodopija This main-square café serves reassuringly strong coffee and delightfully soft and springy krafne (doughnuts), which come either with marmalade filling or with chocolate icing. In summer they also have a substantial menu of ice cream, and a large outdoor terrace perfect for evening drinking.QTrg Rudina 2/b, Murter. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

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Nightlife Nightlife in Šibenik during the summer takes place on the terraces of the city’s cafes and bars among the narrow streets and open squares. So, join in and mingle with the locals. If you’re looking for larger crowds - of the clubbing type - attend one of the festivals in the city or surrounding area that offer plenty of different musical genres and opportunities to hang out with locals and tourists alike (visit the Culture & Events section).

Azimut Club This is the main actor of the Šibenik alternative scene and is choc a bloc filled with detail, great ambience, old retro furniture, inner garden and more. Live concerts held each night with exhibitions and theatre thrown in between. Fits up to 400 guests so squeeze in and as the inner slogan says, ‘Find your way’.QC‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 2, azimut@artim.hr. Open 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. A­6­E­G­B­X­W Domino This functional water-front rectangular space is rendered rather welcoming and homely by a combination of low-key lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a pop-rock menu of background music that is loud enough to keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is mildly older than that at the nearby Point (see below) but not so long in the tooth that they have lost their appetite for a good party.QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 17, tel. (+385-) 091 522 82 25, domic_01@net.hr. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P­6­E­N­G­B­X­W

36 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Kuglana Revamped and ready to roll, this bowling alley has had a makeover and is spick and span ready for the summer. Those wanting a fun night out with games galore will find haven here. Apart from bowling there is billiards, pinball, darts, TVs with sports channels and a nearby betting store. Live urban an alternative bands do hit the stage for entertainment on occasions.QUlica bana Josipa Jelačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 214 09 56, kuglana.sibenik@gmail.com. Open 07:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. P­E­N­G­B­X­W Makari Club Indoors or outdoors, coffees or cocktails, lunch or dinner, relaxing or dancing, morning or night, well you might as well tick all of the above because that’s what you get at this restaurant/club that dines by day, and dances by night. A 24/7 venue for all occasions situated right on the majestic Banj Beach. Come anytime!

Skipper Slightly cooler and less frantic than some of the youngsterfrequented bars, Skipper is a smartly decorated and warmly intimate bar, with a nice mixture of white and wine-red furnishings and a strange blue-neon glow coming from under the tables. There is a decent choice of beers in bottles, cocktails in the 35-45kn range, and a something-foreveryone mixture of RnB pop and adult rock on the sound system.QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 12, tel. (+385-) 098 33 74 41, goranskipper@hotmail.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­E­N­G­B­X­W

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

en vogue Beach Club ‘Barman, we’ll have a cocktail please!’ These can be your words whilst sitting at a water bar under a palm tree at Solaris. Welcome to a state of the art holiday experience for those who love summer beach parties to a real chilling atmosphere. In-house DJs play the biggest hits all day long and you can choose from swimming pools and Jacuzzis to cool off in whilst gazing out onto the Šibenik islands.

QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, info@solaris. hr, www.solaris.hr. AW The Godfather See if you can find this classic quote from ‘The Godfather’ movie ‘Keep your friends close, but your enemies even closer’, somewhere around this night bar. Inspired by the film in terms of décor, the music is far from that with a 50/50 mix of R & B, rock, house and pop.QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića 3, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 00/(+385-) 098 52 68 33, josip290@gmail.com. Open 18:00 - 04:00.

Out of town Admiral A circular space with chairs, private booths and high stools arranged around a central dance floor and performance area, this club offers a full and varied programme, with DJs spinning different musical styles on different nights of the week, live gigs, swanky fashion events, and racy cabaret shows that verge on what might be euphemistically termed ‘adult entertainment’. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

The open-air swimming pool directly above the club functions as a groovy outdoor lounge bar until midnight, providing the perfect place for a pre-club warm up.QUvala Soline bb, Marina Frapa, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 99 00, recepcija@marinafrapa.hr, www. marinafrapa.com. July, August Open 23:00 - 04:00, Closed Mon - Thu. P­T ­A ­6 ­U ­L ­E ­G ­B ­X­ C­W Aurora Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatial-looking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at dawn is all part of the Primošten experience.QKamenar 3, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19 64, info@auroraclub.hr, www.auroraclub.hr.

Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. July 15 - August 30 Open 23:00 - 05:00. A­6 ­L ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W Basadura Wicker chairs, bamboo stools and an outdoor terrace shaded by tropical-island-style thatched parasols add an air of Pacific-Island exotica to this popular café bar on the Old Town’s island. With seating right by the shore, it’s the perfect location to sip cocktails as the sinking sun throws the local islands into silhouette.QBadnje 9, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 733 71 25, basadura1@si.tcom.hr. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T ­6 ­G ­B ­X ­W Summer 2016

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Nightlife

Electric Elephant Archives, Photo by Heather Shuker

Hookah bar Beach bar in front of the Olympia hotel with armchairs and couches set out on wooden decking beneath the pines, with the billowing curtains of its baldachins looking rather like a shoal of jellyfish. It’s the prime place for after-beach parties, with DJs and live musicians starting up in the late afternoon and never seeming to stop. It’s a popular place to see and be seen and the best tables are frequently grabbed by posing wannabes, but there is always some brazen hedonistic fun going on somewhere.

QLjudevita Gaja 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 529 56 01.

June 01 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 01:00. T­A­6­ U­L­E­G­B­X­W Krešimir This small wedge-shaped space bathed in blue-ish light lies in an alleyway just off the square. With at least ten varieties of whisk(e)y behind the bar it’s a tempting last port of call for those who just can’t resist the idea of one for the road.QMajinova 5, Murter, kresimirt67@gmail.com.

Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­A­B­X­W

Castrum Coffee And More Archives

Beach Bar Lantana Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this improvised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on sloping ground underneath pine trees. There is a woodburning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock gigs during the summer.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, agata. juran@gmail.com, lantana-murter.com. May 15 - Octo‑ ber 15 Open 10:00 - 24:00. T­6­N­G­B­X­W Exit club A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering different styles of music on different nights. House and techno regularly pull the punters in, although you might equally stumble into a Croatian pop evening when everyone is singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t understand.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 196 67 19, daniel@streetmedia.hr. June 15 - August 31 Open 22:30 - 05:00. P­J­E­N­B­X Fjaka Bar Situated in the small Dalmatian village of Brodarica near Šibenik, the locals will tell you that Fjaka Bar is one of Brodarica’s best cafes and bars which during the day is a typical relaxing place with a care-free Mediterranean feel where one can enjoy excellent coffee or refreshing beverages, and at night one can night the pace picks up as the bar turns into a small nightclub with DJs and live bands.

Feel the vibrations!QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 200 15 26, fjakabar.brodarica@gmail.com.

Open 08:00–01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–02:00. P­i ­T­6­ E­N­G­B­X­W 38 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Opium This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right beside the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visiting DJs.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 569 50 19, info@opium-vodice.com, www.opiumvodice.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. June - September Open 07:00 - 06:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W Reful An inviting purple and blue rectangle with a big pool table and classic-rock background music, Reful is a welcome antidote to the mainstream sonic wallpaper on offer elsewhere. There is a handful of outdoor tables on a raised terrace looking towards Hramina beach, and wifi internet is available for 10kn/hr. Live blues and rock bands perform at weekends throughout the year, when the alcove at the back of the bar serves as a tiny stage.QSabuni 11, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 75 74 24, drazenm2@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. September 16 - October Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­6­L­E­B­X­W The Legend’s Pub Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden furniture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub - or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker.

The semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for discussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer.QTrg Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+38522) 57 02 77, thelegendspubprimosten@gmail.com, www.thelegendspub.com. Open June - October 08:00 - 04:00. P­J­A­6­E­G­B­X­W sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Essential Šibenik Cathedral of St James (Katedrala Svetog Jakova) With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gargantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral exerts a dominating presence over the huddled buildings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long campaign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the imposing edifice that can be seen today.

Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought together many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalmatinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innovative features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both built from interlocking stone slabs.

Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery of late-Medieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but who died before the reconstruction really got going. Much more refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac provided a frieze of 71 stone heads - which appear to pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Renaissance sculpture and have served as something of a trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parchment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac.

You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is portrayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an Annunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin. Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dalmatinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century Canon of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest masterpiece is the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s corner, which features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs cavorting around the base of the baptismal font. Mass: June - August 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00. September, October, April, May 09:00 facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

and 19:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. November - March 09:00 and 18:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:00.QD‑4, Trg Repub‑ like Hrvatske 1. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Saint Anthony’s Channel - Promenade See one of the most amazing entrances to a city from the sea. Saint Anthony’s Channel is a 4.4km new promenade surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and offers stunning panoramic views of the Šibenik archipelago.

Attractions include the ruins of a 16th century tower, a sublime several hundred meter long marine tunnel built for military purposes, beautiful coves that lay at the end of the channel and are perfect for a swim or quick dip, and in the vicinity sits the old port and a cave that housed a small church dedicated to St. Anthony. Organised tours, walking, jogging and cycling are your best options for a very scenic outside-in view of Šibenik!QJ/K‑5, www. kanal-svetog-ante.com. Šibenik City Museum (Muzej grada Šibenika) A narrow alley, behind the apse of the cathedral, leads to the 17th century Rector’s Palace, from where the representative of the Venetian Republic would watch over Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum which only reopened its door for permanent displays after a demanding 22 year break for renovations. Exhibited artefacts are divided into four periods: Prehistory, Antiquity, Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages.QD‑4, Grad‑ ska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, tajnistvo@muzejsibenik.hr, www.muzej-sibenik.hr. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn, kids by the age of 12 have free entrance.

The Medieval Monastery Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence (Srednjovjekovni samostanski mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre) Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and maintained by children from a local high school, the Mediterranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007. Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what a medieval monastery garden would have looked like, and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cultivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in the kitchen and in medieval medicine. There is also a café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio. If you have ambitious plans for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to come for horticultural inspiration.QD‑3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.spg.hr.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. Admission 15kn.

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Sightseeing

Šibenik City Museum Archives

Šibenik’s Old Town is a typical Mediterranean medieval city, with a warren of pedestrianized alleyways and piazzas overlooked by green-shuttered stone houses. Inaccessible to traffic, its narrow and frequently stepped streets are left to pedestrians, cats, and the occasional moped. Šibenik’s historical core is divided into three parts; the Grad (literally “Town”), which stretches from the Cathedral eastwards; Gorica, comprising the gently sloping streets that stretch uphill towards St Michael’s Fortress; and Dolac, the maze of hillside alleys to the west. The Old Town is entered from the large open square known as the Poljana, from where the street now known as Zagrebačka (sometimes called “Masna ulica” or “Greasy Street” due to the number of inns that used to line it) heads through Gorica towards the Fortress of St Michael, passing a quartet of historical churches on the way. Roughly parallel to Zagrebačka is the street popularly known as the Kalelarga (officially Kralja Tomislava), which slopes down towards the Cathedral.

Churches Church of Our Lady outside the Walls (Gospa van grada) Overlooking the Poljana is this stately 17th-century church with a soaring four-storey belfry. The interior features extravagant red, yellow and white stucco work and a modern relief of the Stations of the Cross. Mass: 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 11:00, 19:00, in July and August 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:30, 20:00.QF‑1, Fra Stjepana Zlatovića 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 77. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun only during mass.

Church of St John (Crkva svetog Ivana) This venerable 14th-century lump of stone is famous for the balustraded staircase on the street-facing side, said to be the work of prolific stonemason Nikola Firentinac.

Sprouting from the upper part of the balustrade are a se40 Šibenik In Your Pocket

ries of angels’ heads in relief form, while a severely eroded lion stands guard at the bottom. The church’s four-storey belfry boasts the town’s oldest mechanical clock, made

by Ottoman craftsmen and used in Drniš before being brought to Šibenik. Inside lies a trio of Baroque altars; the side altar to the left bears a jolly relief of trumpeting cherubs and skulls. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Put igrališta 21.

Church of the Ascension (Crkva Uspenie Bogorodice) A church of medieval origins, this plain but alluring stone beauty began life as the Church of the Holy Saviour, and belonged to the Knights Templars then the Brotherhood of Flagellants before becoming the convent church of the Poor Clares in the 15th century. A fire in 1725 occasioned a major rebuild, when a few Baroque details were added.

The convent was closed by Emperor Joseph II, and the church was handed over to the Orthodox congregation in 1808. It has been the centre of Šibenik County’s Orthodox community ever since.

Darkened by the smoke of innumerable candles, the interior contains an iconostasis studded with images of the Virgin Mary, several of which have been enhanced by the addition of silver-plated halos or crowns. A colourful modern mural of Christ fills the apse.

Incidentally, the church hosted one of the first ever theatre productions in Šibenik in 1615, when the Poor Clares performed a religious play on the subject of the Three Kings - the roles were all taken by nuns. Mass Sat 18:00 and Sun 09:00.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 47 45. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Svetog Duha) Overlooking a small piazza, this dainty 17th-century affair is one of central Šibenik’s most attractive little churches, sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing with arched roofline and a central rose window. Half way up the façade is a relief of a bird, symbolizing the spirit in the title. The church is closed for visitors.QD‑2, Dinko Zavorović Square.

St Francis’ Church and monastery (Crkva i samostan svetog Frane) Belonging to Šibenik’s main Franciscan Monastery, this church boasts Gothic origins but was given a full Baroque makeover, with leading 17th-century painter Matej Pončun providing a series of dramatically turbulent altar paintings. A doorway from the square just outside the church’s main entrance leads through to the monastery courtyard, where a row of stone buildings contain a range of displays dealing with church history, and examples of the monastery library’s rich collection of manuscripts and books. Mass 08:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:30 and 19:00.

Mass in English can be arranged by appointment.QF‑3, Trg Nikole Tommasea 1, tel. (+385-22) 20 14 80, info@ svetiste-sibenik.hr, www.svetiste-sibenik.hr. Open 07:30 - 19:30.

St Lawrence’s Church (Crkva svetog Lovre) Completed in the 18th century, the church belongs to a monastery founded by Franciscan friars from the island of Visovac (see p.62). The monastery was an important centre of learning, teaching philosophy and theology from 1669. One of its former teachers was Andrija Kaćič-Miošić (1704-1760), the Franciscan friar famous for penning Pleasant Conversation of the Slav People, one of the first popular histories of the Croatian nation. Just west of the monastery along Kačićeva and up some steps is the Lourdes Grotto, an artificial cave holding a statue of the Virgin Mary. It was built in imitation of the cave near Lourdes in France where the Virgin is said to have appeared to a local girl in 1858. Mass: 18:30, Sun 08:30.QD‑3, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 11, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 09. Open by prior arrangement.

The New Church (Nova crkva) Designed by Nikola Firentinac in 1502, the New Church is so-called because it was one of the last to be built within the town walls. It was commissioned by one of Šibenik’s most prestigious religious brotherhoods, the Brotherhood of St Mary. It is connected to the brotherhood’s ceremonial hall on the other side of the alley by an archway. Mass: Sat 20:00, September Sat at 19:00.The church is open only during mass.QD‑2/E‑2, Ulica Nove Crkve.

Curiosites Amor di cani On the ground floor of the palace, on the western corner of Medulić Square and Kalelarga, you will find two stone containers. One has been chiselled with the inscription ‘Amor di cani’. People used to leave water there for cats and dogs, especially in the summer months when the appearance of rabies and other diseases threatened. These containers facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Sightseeing pear and retell you a story relating to his life and the Cathedral (Eng/Cro). You can also take a picture of others whilst he is still on screen.

Fortifications One of Šibenik’s unique attractions are its four fortresses which for centuries served as a defense against incoming enemies. Two of the fortresses have been renovated, St. Michael’s and Barone, whilst the fortress of St. Nicholas, which is built and encompasses the surface area of an entire island, this year entered the common list of fortresses which will be under the protection of UNESCO. St Nicholas’ Fortress can be reached by sea or by road in the hinterland of Zablaće.

Photo by Boris Kačan

served as prevention and for maintaining health as it was known that animals suffering from rabies often had a fear of water, and in this way sick animals could be recognised and prevented from spreading further disease. It is thought that these stone containers date back to the 18th century.

The Šibenik Rebus Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, passing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols - bird’s wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gaming dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid message, although opinion differs as to precisely what this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and gaming seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will be quite dead at the end of it.QE‑3, Dobrić.

Virtual Juraj Dalmatinac In 2013, this amazing Smartphone and tablet application won the international UNWTO Ulysses Award for innovation in research and technology in tourism. Once you download this free Aurasma application and point to the markings around the Šibenik Cathedral, the now ‘virtual’ Croatian Renaissance architect Juraj Dalmatinac will ap42 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Barone Fortress Today’s smart devices are virtual time machines. Don a pair of augmented reality (AR) glasses and use your smart phone and step 370 years into the past, to the 1646 Ottoman siege of Šibenik. The defence of the city by the citizens of Šibenik is told through an exhilarating audio and video experience taking the viewer right into the centre of the action. The siege takes place on Barone Fortress, a fortification hastily built in just under two months lying on the hills overlooking the city. The fortress was part of the defence system of Šibenik which included three other fortresses and together they served as the last line of defence against the invading Ottomans. While the other three fortresses were named after sacred buildings, this one was named after Baron Degenfeld, a hero in the story of the cities defence.

The fortress soon fell into a state of disrepair after the Ottoman invaders were repelled. It was several hundred years later, in the early 20th century that the city of Šibenik purchased the fortress and its surrounding land. It eventually gained use as a viewpoint overlooking the city’s marina and archipelago, and as a recreational space for hiking.

It was only recently that the city of Šibenik began looking at restoring the centuries old structure. In June of 2014, with the financial backing of the European Regional Development Fund, an almost €1.4 million project was undertaken by the city of Šibenik to renovate Barone Fortress. The goal of the project was to provide the visitors of the fortress with a cultural attraction and incorporate high-tech innovative services. Utilising AR technology, the stories of the past can now become the attractions of the future. A visitor equipped with AR glasses is greeted at the entrance to the fortress by a hologram of Baron Degenfeld. This, alongside other eye-witness accounts of the siege help to comprise a unique educational experience that would never have been possible otherwise.

In January of this year, Barone Fortress was finally reopened to the public. The opening ceremony celebrated the rich cultural heritage of the city of Šibenik and marked the 950th anniversary of the first written mention of the city’s name.

Anyone who wishes to visit the fortress today can do so for 50kn per person, or 110kn per family. This includes an sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing annual membership pass with unlimited entry into the complex, which boasts a gastro - cultural centre with bistro and a shop, and of course a breath-taking view of the city and sea below. Another option is a regular ticket that is valid for 7 days and is valid for visiting St. Michael’s Fortress too, costing 50kn per adult, 30kn for children older than 5, and 110kn per family. AR glasses can be rented at the Barone shop. The modernisation and reopening of the Barone Fortress comes at a time when tourism to Croatia is at an all-time high. Millions of tourists flock to the small Mediterranean country every year and visit its stunning Adriatic coast. The fortress is now a unique and new attraction among many in Croatia. It brings from the past a pivotal event in the region’s history and lets visitors immerse themselves in its intricacies using the exciting AR technology. Hopefully the remodelling of Barone Fortress can serve as a springboard to jumpstart further renovation of Croatia’s cultural assets. Many of the country’s centuries and decades old buildings have gone out of use and are slowly becoming ruins. A great number of these buildings have their own rich histories and their own stories to tell. Having joined the European Union and being able to secure funds for projects such as the restoration of Barone Fortress, Croatia is in a great position to continue renovating and renewing certain aspects of its cultural heritage. All told, Croatia is quickly growing in popularity and becoming a hit mainstream destination. With award winning parks, hostels, cities, and beaches, there is an ever increasing demand to experience Croatia.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, barone@ muzej-sibenik.hr, www.barone.hr. Open 08:00-21:00.

Admission 30 - 110kn.

St John’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Ivana) Built in 1646 at the time of the Candia War (when Venetancontrolled Dalmatia was engaged in a bitter struggle to ward off Ottoman encroachment) this is a typical example of 17th-century military architecture, its star-shaped plan providing any number of ideal angles for defensive artillery fire. Even today it is a stirring sight, its angular jutting bastions surrounded by outcrops of limestone and spindly evergreen trees. Getting here from the centre of town is fairly easy: from the main Kralja Zvonimira take Težačka then turn left into Zadarska Street, before turning right onto the steeply ascending Put V. Mandušića. Alternatively, drive as

Aquarium Šibenik Upon entering this old stone house situated 50m from the Cathedral, embark on a journey which brings to life the local residents of the Adriatic Sea. Twenty aquariums give you a close up view of fish to crustaceans, to sea stars and sharks.QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel. (+385-) 099 212 58 19, aquarium. sibenik@gmail.com, www.aquariumsibenik.com.

Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 27 - 37kn. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

far as Barone (see below) and take the footpath from there.

Once you’re here, the access path to the fortress itself leads through a stepped gateway and out onto a grassy plateau, where there are remains of barrack blocks, powder stores, World-War-II gun positions and a modern radio mast. The views, taking in St Michael’s Fortress and the Šibenik Channel, are well worth the uphill walk.QL‑2.

St Michael’s Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Mihovila) One of the first things that visitors see when entering Šibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michael’s Fortress, which crowns the pyramidal hill above Šibenik’s Old Town.

Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought their court here - Petar Krešimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in 1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Krešimir’s visit that Šibenik was first mentioned in official documents, which explains why the city is sometimes known to this day as “Krešimir’s Town”.

Its floor plan has the shape of an irregular rectangle. There are two square towers on its eastern side whereas two polygonal towers sit along its northern front. Throughout history, the fortress had been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and it experienced its greatest suffering in 1663 and 1752. Archaeological investigations inside the monumental complex have found numerous remains of material culture dating from prehistoric times to the late Middle Ages.

Running downhill from the fortress towards the seafront are a crenellated set of double walls built in the 15th century to provide access to the sea. With recent extensive reconstruction it has become a great summer stage for various cultural and music events.QC‑2, Zagrađe 21, tvrdjavasvmihovil@muzej-sibenik.hr, www.svmihovil. sibenik.hr/. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Admission 30 - 110kn.

St Nicholas Fortress (Tvrđava svetog Nikole) Jutting out into the St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow neck of water that leads from the Šibenik Channel to the open sea, the smooth-pointed triangle of St Nicholas’s Fortress is one of the most elegant military buildings anywhere in the Adriatic. It was built by Venetian military engineer Gian Girolamo Sammicheli in the mid-16th century to protect Šibenik from Ottoman naval attacks. There are long-term plans to restore the fortress and turn it into a museum centre, although for the time being it remains something that can only be seen from the deck of a passing ship.

The dreamy sensation of drifting past St Nicholas’s waterlapped bastions is certainly well worth the price of a ticket on the Šibenik-Vodice ferry.

Galleries St Chrysogonus Gallery As part of the old Romanic church, the main exhibiting area is designed as the gallery of contemporary art in Šibenik. Exhibitions by Croatian and international artists are often organized. The gallery also has a studio and the Summer 2016

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Sightseeing built onto the side of a buttressed 16th-century bastion.

Occupying a niche on the side of the bastion is a statue of the city’s protector, demon-slaying Archangel Michael.

QG‑2, Poljana.

Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica) Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathedral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substantially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restaurant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.QD‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. Šibenik City Museum Archives

Matija Gallery in the historical part of Šibenik.QD‑3, Don Krste Stošića bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 00 49, gkrsevan@ gmail.com, www.galerija-sv-krsevana.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

St Chrysogonus Gallery Studio (Matija Gallery) The exhibiting area as part of the Sveti Krševan Gallery, intended for contemporary art. It is located in the old baroque building in the centre of Šibenik.QF‑3, Petra Nakića bb, gkrsevan@gmail.com, www.galerija-svkrsevana.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 21:00 - 23:00.

Landmarks Juraj Dalmatinac The great Zadar-born stonemason was resident in Šibenik from 1441 until his death over three decades later, despite long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona and elsewhere. Šibenik folk regard him with justification as a local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral is very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as a mark of respect for a great architect.QD‑3/4, Trg Repub‑ like Hrvatske.

Petar Krešimir IV (1058-1074) King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name, the first ever historical document that did so. For this reason, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by the locals.QG‑3, Perivoj Robert Visiani.

Poljana This broad irregularly shaped square is very much modern Šibenik’s focal point. It began life as the open space outside the town gates where horse races and archery contests would take place. The square’s most distinguished building is the stately ochre Šibenik Theatre, built in 1870 and patronized by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph during his Dalmatian tour in 1875.

On the other side of the Poljana stands the boldly contemporary public library, a wedge of modern glass and steel 44 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Parks Perivoj Robert Visiani Named after the Šibenik-born 19th-century botanist, this stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs ensure that the park retains its colour all year round, while plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (1802-1874), the Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s now the site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV.QG‑3. Šubićevac Park For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that characterizes central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ playground near the entrance, and good views over the south-eastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the nearby fortresses of St John and Šubićevac.

QŠubićevac.

Religious Collections Treasury of Benedictine Nunnery of St Luce (Benediktinski samostan Sv. Luce) Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of Šibenik’s most absorbing attractions, filled with religious objects that may not be astronomically valuable but which nevertheless convey a rich love of craftsmanship and sincere devotion. Most curious and most captivating of the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th century. A stone inscription above the entrance honours 17thcentury benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his own houses in the order to help get the monastery started.QD‑3, Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24, spas. kateiluce@gmail.com. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by prior arrangement.

Admission 10kn. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Dry Stone Wall

Photo by Darko Veršić

A dry stone wall, fence or suhozid is a structure made of natural stone without the use of a binding material such as mortar. The construction of dry stone walls, and other structures made without mortar, demand special skills and traditions handed down over generations. They are a significant part of the cultural heritage of the greater Mediterranean area stretching back to ancient times.

In prehistoric times when neolithic farming took hold in the European hinterland, former cave-dwelling people built their homes, fences and animal shelters using wood. Meanwhile, in southern Europe and along the Mediterranean, wood was in large part difficult to find, and due to frequent droughts and resulting wildfires, wooden structures were also impractical. Different building techniques developed in these areas which took advantage of the plentiful stone harvested from the rocky terrain. It was in this way that dry stone construction began to shape Dalmatia and the structures which dominate the area even today. In addition to walls, the technique was used to build small dwellings; fences encircling vineyards, arable land and pastures; and in the construction of wells. The Premužić trail, a 57 kilometre-long path cutting through the highest peaks of northern and central Velebit, is yet another famous example of mortarless architecture. Further advantages of this type of construction is that they protect against soil erosion and serve as shelter for various plants and animals; including, lizards, snakes, frogs, bees and insects. Dry wall construction is a reflection of the diligent and often hard life of the locals who collected the stones from the environment to use in the myriad structures. But by doing so, agricultural land and living space for animals would be cleaned of cumbersome stone. When building any dry stone structure, it is of extreme importance to select the proper stones and facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

have them interlock accordingly to ensure durability and stability.

When we talk about dry stone constructed shelters in Croatia, our attention must be turned to the kažun in Istria, the komarda in the Kvarner region, bunja in Dalmatia and trim on the island of Hvar. These circular-shaped huts and their conical or stepped roofs were originally used as dwellings for people, but later shifted their purpose to house agricultural tools, farm equipment, and ultimately as emergency shelters for shepherds to take refuge from a passing storm.

If you wish to see examples of dry stone walls in the city of Split, look no further than Marjan park. The city’s forested park is intertwined with a network of mortarless walls and fences that cover nearly the entire surface of the park. It is also possible to run into examples of the circular field houses typical of Dalmatia mentioned earlier.

In order to preserve and maintain this traditional form of construction, the Dragodid project was launched. Dry stone workshops are organized whereby participants can learn traditional building techniques. If anyone is interested in participating in one of the workshops, information can be found on their website or FB page: www.dragodid.org.

The Dry Stone Workshop The peak seasons for dry stone construction in Dalmatia are the spring and fall. Construction subsides slighly during the summer because the days are too hot. The dry stone workshop which is traditionally held on the first day of the Lav‑ ender Festival in Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar - this year falls on Friday June 24th. For information regarding the autumn workshops, please follow the Dragodid website and Facebook page.

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Šibenik Surroundings

Vertigo Diving Centre Archives

Explore New Worlds Discover the County from Pirovac to Rogoznica, Drniš and knin, places that tourist guides don’t always mention

46 Šibenik In Your Pocket

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik County (or Šibensko-kninska županija as it is known in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with swanky yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist resorts rubbing shoulders with archaic villages and large tracts of sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka and Kornati national parks are the two must-do daytrips, although with islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, you’re unlikely to be stuck for natural beauty spots.

Agritourism Banovi dvori Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams, stuffed animals above the bar, and an all-pervading aroma of good cooking. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered in glowing embers. These meals take two hours to prepare, which is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve early in the day - or risk going hungry.

Accompanied by potatoes baked in the same pot, the resulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generouslyportioned: ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your dinner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden plantation. He sells self-produced olive oil, honey and rakija to boot.QDubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22) 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, seosko.gospodarstvo-banovi. dvori@si.t-com.hr, www.banovidvori.com. Open by prior arrangement.

Etnoland Enter a journey into the heart of Dalmatian culture. Set in the serene village of Pakovo Selo, you are taken on a 2.5 hour award winning show through the village where you listen to ancient tales, see and learn about Dalmatian customs and traditions; walk through stoned houses and more. A three course traditional ‘all you can eat’ dinner is provided with roast under the iron bell, grappa, wine and prosciutto tasting. The show starts at 20:00 and there are packages available which include transport at www. dalmati.com - Awarded the best tourist attraction offer in continental Croatia, 2012.QOštarija 9, Pakovo Selo, Drniš, tel. (+385-) 099 220 02 00, info@dalmati.com, www. dalmati.com. Open by prior arrangement. Admission 30-55€.

Kalpić There’s a feel to this homestead; the stunning old stone house - built in the traditional style and located near the Krka National Park - is an eye catcher. Then there’s the taste of life and cuisine from the typical Dalmatian countryside.

Here you will find a garden with home-grown vegetables, traditional local specialties such as baked bread, prosciutto, smoked ham, cheese, and roasted peka meals... paradise on earth.QKalpići 4, Lozovac, tel. (+385-) 091 584 55 20, agroturizam@gmail.com, www.kalpic.com.

Open by prior arrangement. 6­B­X facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Skradinske delicije This family house in the village of Bićine above Skradin conceals a characterful konoba strewn with traditional household nick-nacks, with grandma’s old frying pans hanging from the ceiling and bunches of dried herbs placed at strategic locations around the walls. The menu concentrates on cured meats, Adriatic seafood and local lamb, although you should ring in advance to reserve a table. The family make their own honeys, rakija and marmalade - a selection of which are always on sale.QBićine Velike 31, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 48/(+385-) 091 520 93 30, info@skradinske-delicije. hr, www.skradinske-delicije.hr. Open by prior ar‑ rangement.

Biking There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly popular draws.

In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site.

There are a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the summer. Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hinterland of Primošten, where a network of marked routes make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly off-road trails to explore ancient villages such as Draga, Široke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive groves.

Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.

The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on the roads.

At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails have been marked. You can get a map at any of the respective tourist offices.

Krka National Park Archives

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Šibenik Surroundings Inland from Šibenik Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and endof-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia. The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is covered under a separate section below.

Drniš Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin.

Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Ottoman-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated at night. Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has archeological and ethnological displays alongside a collection of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice. Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promising local lad’s studies.

City Museum of Drniš QDomovinskog rata 54, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74, gradski.muzej.drnis@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 10:00, 11:00 - 13:00. Sat and Sun closed. Admission free.

Drniš Tourist Board QDomovinskog rata 5, tel. (+385-22) 88 86 19/(+385) 095 968 04 20, info@tz-drnis.hr, www.tz-drnis.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Knin Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of crucial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in more recent times the location of a major railway junction. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and towers that hovers above 48 Šibenik In Your Pocket

the winding Krka river. An important strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia accepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a highly symbolic end to hostilities. Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside, with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the northern horizon.

The fortress itself is an extensive and highly evocative complex of fortifications constructed at different stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby, the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological museum.

Knin Tourist Board QTuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, info@tz-knin. hr, www.tz-knin.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Museum of the town of Knin QFra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 17 02, kninskimuzej@kninskimuzej.hr, www.kninskimuzej.hr.

Open 07:00 - 18:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Otavice Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists.

Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year.

The Ivan Meštrović Museum – The Church of the Holy Redeemer QOtavice, Village Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Pakovo Selo Twenty kilometres north of Šibenik on the main road to Knin, Pakovo Selo is a traditional inland-Dalmatian village sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

famous for its sheep - and its tasty sheep’s cheese, sir iz mišine, matured the traditional way by being stuffed into a tube made of sheep entrails. Pakovo Selo owes its place on the global tourist map to Etnoland, an ethnographic theme park that aims to introduce visitors to the traditional lifestyles of the Dalmatian karst. Just off the village’s main crossroads, Etnoland is a walled complex containing a collection of traditional stone buildings, each holding a display of olde-worlde furnishings that reveal something about Dalmatian life a century or so ago. Etnoland is geared up to receiving pre-booked groups, and individual tourists should reserve well in advance and be prepared to pay the full group price. The standard tour lasts 2.5 hour, and includes a welcome swig of rakija, a spot of pršut-andwine tasting, awarded guide tour of the displays and a full meal. For more information see Agritourism on page 45.

Skradin Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the river Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flourishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bribir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684.

Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic destination, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering superb seafood and some unique regional treats.

Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is centred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts, Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttleboats into the Krka National Park (see p.60).

Museum Collection of Skradin QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 80. July - Au‑ gust 31 Open 18:00 - 22:00. Admission free.

Skradin Tourist Board QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 29/(+385-22) 77 13 06, info@skradin.hr, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Skradin Tourist Information Centre QŠibenska 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, katarina@skradin.hr, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Islands The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years Summer 2016

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Šibenik Surroundings away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settlements that appear to have changed little in decades (perhaps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal village 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie on the route of the Šibenik-Vodice ferry (2-4 daily depending on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.

Žirje Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scattering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting

Little Donkey Strong, surefooted and not afraid of the sun, the donkey was once such a common sight in Dalmatia that for Croatian people donkeys are synonymous with the region. While the standard Croatian word for donkey is magarac, in Dalmatian dialect the word used is tovar, which is related to the word for loading goods or a burden. Inland folks unkindly refer to Dalmatian people as tovari, while the Dalmatians themselves (including Hajduk Split fans) wear the badge with pride.

For centuries donkeys were used to carry heavy goods such as wood across the rocky terrain of the hinterland and islands, and many families had a few of the animals to help with regular tasks. Donkey hooves are smaller and tougher than horses’, and since donkeys can survive on the meagre grass and scrub around here they’re perfect for this terrain.

Nowadays, of course, people have other ways of transporting things around, and ever fewer people live from agriculture. So the braying of a donkey has become a rare sound on our holidays, just a reminder of a disappearing way of life.

However, thanks to a number of enthusiasts, there has been a revival of donkey-breeding in the past few years. Kids, of course, love donkeys, so they’re a tourist attraction in their own right. Some towns, notably Tribunj near Šibenik, hold donkey races - a fun evening out in the summer. And some folks are selling donkey milk for its health-giving and beautifying properties. (Cleopatra knew a good thing when she saw it).

So, if you see a donkey while you’re in Dalmatia, be sure to give it a friendly pat. Just don’t mention the word “stubborn”. We’d rather say the donkey knows it’s own mind and will be glad to oblige you - just so long as you ask nicely 50 Šibenik In Your Pocket

away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bicycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring the island.

Kaprije Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian), Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a car free island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around the place that got here somehow). The small village of Kaprije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants.

Private rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx of tourists, although the island is never in danger of being overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous coves are ideal for a spot of secretive bathing.

Krapanj Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the lowlying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the centre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the island’s male population devoting their time to spongediving. Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly attractive spot, with a line of stone houses along the mainland-facing waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops selling sponge-themed gifts. Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard next door contains several family tombs honouring one-time sponge divers, many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby Hotel Spongiola (see p.17) to find a small but entertaining display of exhibits connected with the local sponge-harvesting industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and early 20th-century air pumps.

Brodarica - Krapanj Tourist Board QKrapanjskih spužvara 1, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 12, tz.brodarica@gmail.com, www.tz-brodarica.hr.

Open Mon, Fri 08:00 - 12:00, Wen 16:00 - 20:00. June 1 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Prvić In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements - Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west - Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and resibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings mains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular - priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617).

Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church. Educated in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-ItalianGerman-Hungarian-Croatian dictionary (published in 1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His more famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in 1615, contains 49 copper-plate engravings of machines and inventions, in conscious homage to the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most famous of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures a man descending through the air attached to a square canvas parachute.

English clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some 30 years later, claimed that Vrančić actually tested the parachute himself by jumping from the belfry of St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice.

A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka to the island’s other settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village of stone houses, Šepurine is centred on a parish church whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an extravagant weather vane.

The Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!QI Ulica 1a, Prvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28, tehnicki@mc-faustvrancic.com, www.mc-faustvrancic. com. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - Sep‑ tember 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 09:00 - 16:00. Ad‑ mission 15 - 30kn.

bracelets and earrings.

Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stone-built houses arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the impressive clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj (local version of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned by an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth a peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing down from either side of the pediment.

Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked Roman galley found by marine archeologists just off the Šibenik coast, and an “ethnographic room” containing domestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process in the workroom next door.

Further east, the Chapel of St Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has a small collection of church treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along the road past the chapel and you’ll arrive after 10 minutes at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a church of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working image of the Virgin. Inside, model ships hang from the ceiling as a gesture of thanks from devout sailors.

Vodice Tourist Board QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

Zlarin Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m).

Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the most frequent names on the island are Srećko, Nato and Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the island ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing went into decline due to depleted stocks, although at least one coral-processing workshop still exists on the island, and several souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Šibenik Surroundings National parks Kornati

Krka National Park Archives

Krka National Park Archives

Krka National Park Archives

Etno museum Zlarinka QNiz Bebana bb, tel. (+385-22 ) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, zlarinka1@net.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:30, 16:30 - 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Zlarin Tourist Board QSunčana obala 14, tel. (+385-22) 55 35 57, tzzlarin@ net.hr, www.tz-zlarin.com. June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

The Zlarin legend The highest point of the Klepac Island is 169 meters high and the church of Mary from Rašelj was to be built there.

Things however did not go to plan - a group of people found a piece of wood with the image of the Madonna in Zlarin (the place of today’s church) and they took it up to Klepac to the place of the planned church. The next morning, that same wooden image of the Madonna appeared in Zlarin where it was found, and from there it was decided that that would be the home of the church in Zlarin.

52 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes, and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitching of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 islands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exuding a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctuated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the islands on the western side of the archipelago feature spectacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea level in the case of those on the island of Klobučar, while man-made features include the dry-stone walls that streak across ageold pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the islands constitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of them fall under the protection of the Kornati National Park, founded in 1980.

Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by families from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant olives or harvest honey - as well as fishing in the seafoodrich surrounding waters. The islands no longer have a permanent population, although parts of the archipelago are seasonally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking complete seclusion. The Gospa od Tarca church on the island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats.

Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout the summer, most departing at around 09:00 and returning towards 18:00. Almost all of the tourist agencies in Murter and Vodice offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300Kn per person, including lunch on one of the islands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most definitely need your own boat - and a couple of days to spare. For yachtspeople, ACI marinas exist on the island of Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just outside it. Yachtsfolk will have to buy an entrance ticket to the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office in Murter, marinas in the islands themselves, in some charter companies, travel agencies from Zadar to Primosten. Or from the receptionist in the “mobile” receptions who are patrolling the Kornati waters by speedboats.

Kornati National Park QButina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, kornati@npkornati.hr, www.np-kornati.hr. Entrance ticket cost 150 - 3200kn depending on the size of the boat.

Krka Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by the Krka, the 75km-long river that rises in the arid karst near Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling waterfalls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches, between Skradin and Knin, fall under the protection of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni park Krka), which is visited by an average of 700,000 people a year.

About 90% of these visitors never get any further than Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the upper (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and trekking routes are only now being developed.

Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play host to various communities of bats, who play an important role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside insects. It’s also an area rich in historical resonances, with ruined fortresses recalling the region’s erstwhile status as a disputed borderland between warring empires, and waterside monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture.

Visiting the park There are five main entrance points to the park. The first is the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the park. There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Skradin to Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00), on the plateau above the Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski buk either on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus.

The third is Roški slap (Open 09:00 - 20:00, September Open 09:00 - 19:00) although the road is narrow and there is not much parking space. The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 - 18:00, July - August Open 09:00 - 20:00) on the road from Kistanje towards Knin and the last one is Laškovica. (During the other months please check the Park’s Web site or give them a call to check opening hours.)

Daily tickets (110-150kn adults, children 80-90kn) and multi-day tickets (320kn adults, children 200kn) can be bought at the National Park Information Centre in Skradin or from the entrance points described above. The ticket price includes rides on the national park’s shuttle boats

Educational underwater trail Why not learn beneath the sea? Set in the Murter Channel and along the amazing promenade TisnoJezera, seven buoys have been anchored sea deep and each buoy has a fixed educational board detailing local marine life in both Croatian and English. It’s educational and sensational!

facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not include travel on excursion boats heading further north into the park these must be paid for separately Skradinski buk Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, the limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongoing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers growing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year.

The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“racket”), a reference to the noise generated by the water rushing over the rapids.

Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement at which the rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed to power a variety of machines. Ten of the stone mill buildings have been restored, and visitors can see working examples of flour and fulling mills, alongside displays of traditional costumes and agricultural implements.

Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski belveder), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875.

A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the second AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private company in order to build and manage the power station, the first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904, the whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off in his honour.

Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water right below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This broad stretch of shallow water is the one part of the National Park where you are allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys prevents bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall itself.

On the other side of the river is a network of trails leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal flooding.

Ključica Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is part of the fortification system developed by the medieval Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported in both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on commerce was much resented by others in the region, and Ključica was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th century.

Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684.

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Šibenik Surroundings Visovac Monastery Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the socalled Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which measures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Grey-green hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least the 14th century, although the church we see today was built in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region, it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of a much-visited church . A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is held in the monastery treasury.

Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamičak fortress can be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built by the Nelipić family in the 13th century, it was demolished by the conquering Ottomans after 1522.

Roški slap From Visovac to Roški slap (also known as the ‘Vast Waterfall’) 5km north, is a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that mark the northern end of Lake Visovac. Roški slap is also accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo), although parking space is limited when you get there. For true nature lovers, one of Croatia’s most charming trails sits here and is from Lake Visovac to the parking lot, 8.5km of trail filled with geological, historical and cultural features.

As at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving techniques inside.

Krka Monastery and beyond Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje), the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox monasteries.

It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Princess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan who married a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous for its Romanesque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also known for its early-Christian catacombs - although they are not always open to visitors.

Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin.

North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides.

Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east, and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić family, although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol. It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing offenders from high windows being the favoured form of capital punishment Burnum Just outside the park’s western boundary, the road from Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst, passing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman legionary camp that subsequently developed into a civilian settlement. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.

A footpath from Burnum to the Manojlovac rapids, deep down in the Krka canyon to the east, is currently in the development stages Puljane Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeological display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views of the canyon.

Franciscan Monastery of the Mother of Mercy (Franjevački samostan Majke od milosti) QVisovac, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.hr. Boat tickets 50 - 100kn.

Krka National Park Info Centre QŠibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 88, info@ npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Sep - Oct Open 08:00 - 19:00.

Public Institute of Krka National Park QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. The Burnum Archaeological Collection QPuljani, Oklaj, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, info@npk.hr, www.npkrka.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Jezera Tourist Board Archives

54 Šibenik In Your Pocket

The Monastery of the Archangel Michael (Manastir Krka) QCarigradska draga, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www. npkrka.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings North of Šibenik The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide quieter alternatives.

Murter Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on largesized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular clientele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, and - although it can be busy in summer - it has a more laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns.

Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone walls that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the enigmatic cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west are the alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murter’s status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors.

Tisno Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an accurate description of the town’s location, hugging both shores of the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 9am and 5pm) to allow boats to pass through the town.

There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains a small history display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site established by families who moved here from northern Italy in the late 17th century. There are sumptuous views of the surrounding countryside from the top.

Back at sea level, the town’s long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it perfect for extended shoreline strolls.

The rock-and-pebble beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and Jazina (northwest) are ideal for a family-oriented splashingaround holiday.

Jezera A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay.

Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still exists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early 20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jetties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (immediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjasenovac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with these and other bays forge their way through olive groves and are ideal for cycling.

Murter With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a relaxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the highest number of boats in proportion to the local population than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, with a big repair yard.

Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped, café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out towards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern end.

Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway known as Summer 2016

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Šibenik Surroundings tana (see p.35) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant (the Čigrađa, see p.29). Čigrađa can also be reached by road from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road out of town and turn right when you see the sign.

Betina Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland (and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards catering for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane), famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bulbous red dome and spindly weather vane.

Betina Tourist Board QDolac 2a, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22, tz-betina@hi.t-com. hr, www.tz-betina.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Jezera Tourist Board QPut Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, turistickazajednica-jezera@si.htnet.hr, www.tzjezera.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill towards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of Murter’s stone houses. Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans - who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the graveyard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide an idea of what it once looked like. There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully evocative spot.

Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and potentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direction. Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats.

Behind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of Lan56 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Murter - Kornati Tourist Board QRudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, info@tzo-murter. hr, www.tzo-murter.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Tisno Tourist Board QIstočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+385-22) 43 86 04, info@ tz-tisno.hr, www.tz-tisno.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Pirovac Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik, Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish church.

Pirovac Tourist Board QKralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) 46 67 70, info@ tz-pirovac.hr, www.tz-pirovac.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. September Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

Tribunj Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

Pirovac Tourist Board Archives

thumb-shaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge.

There’s a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay.

Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that features an intricate model ship. For those who need to stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There are splendid views of the coastline from the summit.

To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice.

Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey races that takes place every year in the first week of August. The traditional local affection for the four-legged braying beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar (“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999.

There is a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to the southwest.

Tribunj Tourist Board QBadnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, tztribunj@inet. hr, www.tz-tribunj.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Vodice Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the mostvisited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

developments on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment buildings. Vodice’s beaches consist mostly of concrete, gravel and pebble, so don’t get too excited about building any sandcastles. The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water system was constructed. Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A solid-looking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, which contains an entertaining and educational display of Adriatic sea creatures, which - featuring sea bream, sea bass and dentex - looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats from all ages and countries - they range from traditional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.

Aquarium and Museum of the maritime tradition QObala Matice hrvatske 33, tel. (+385-22) 44 42 93/ (+385-) 098 35 30 63, 098 21 46 34, ivo.pelajic4@si.tcom.hr, www.aquarium-vodice.com. Open 09:00 23:00. Admission 15 - 25kn.

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Šibenik Surroundings

Hotel Zora Primošten Archives

Vodice Tourist Board QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, info@vodice.hr, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.

South of Šibenik South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patronized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of the region’s biggest yachting marinas.

One the way there you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter spots. Grebaštica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the ruins of a Venetian defensive wall.

Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small coastal village whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - perfect platforms for a summer skin-roasting session.

Primošten Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croatian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north, fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach.

Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of 58 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast.

The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”) was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the resulting town became known as Primošten (which might be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”).

As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the peninsula town that visitors see today. On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stone-roofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect the local population against atrocities by both Italian and German occupiers during World War II, before finally being murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with lavender bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround the 15th-century parish church of St George. Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are packed with bathers in summer.

Inland from Primošten Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an enchanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been left to go to seed - although an increasing number of local families are returning to their ancestral properties and revitalizing the olive groves. The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is increasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popularity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hillside village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and whose family have been masters of the property for several generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuildings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works donated by contemporary Croatian artists.

For more information see Agritourism on page 51.

Primošten Vineyards The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes from the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primošten, a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by individual local families. With each of these rectangular parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing hillside terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a distance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the “stone lace of Primošten” in local tourist literature.

These terraces are the result of generations of back-breaking toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from the 16th century, although extra impetus to their development was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution, when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town was divided up and shared out among the locals. Over the course of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were cleared and dividing walls were erected with geometrical precision, producing the unique vineyard landscape that can be seen today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian government is considering putting the Primošten Vineyards forward as a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several terraced slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors to explore the landscape at close quarters.

Primošten Tourist Board QTrg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11, tz-primosten@si.htnet.hr, www.tz-primosten.hr. Open facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Photo by Darko Veršić

Jezera Tourist Board Archives

08:00 - 20:00. June Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Rogoznica Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeniably attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircular building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub. Just behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Dragon”), a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs. North of the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines.

Rogoznica Tourist Board QObala Kneza Domagoja 56, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53, rogoznica@tz-rogoznica.hr, www.tz-rogoznica.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Wen, Thu 08:00 - 15:00. June 15 August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:00.

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Leisure Scuba Diving There are scuba diving centres throughout the region, although it is on the island of Krapanj - long famous as the centre of the Adriatic sponge-diving industry - that it has the longest tradition. Skradin, with its access to the sea inlet known as the Prukljansko jezero is an important training base for rowers, canoeists and kayakers.

Diving Center Manta QHuljerat bb, Primošten (Adriatic Auto Camp), tel. (+385-) 098 44 32 83/(+385-) 098 53 47 01, manta@ crodive.info, www.crodive.info. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N Diving Center Tramonto QStjepana Radića 13, Tisno, tel. (+385-) 098 84 32 33, divetramonto@divetramonto.com, www. divetramonto.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Mediterraneo Sub QUlica Krapanjskih Spužvara 48, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 539 40 07/(+385-) 091 738 80 31, mediteraneosub80@hotmail.com, www. mediterraneo-sub.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Rogoznica Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Borko Pusić

Adrenaline Rush Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock climbing, wind surfing,…)

Adriatic Big Game Fishing Departures from Vodice or surrounding area — Biograd, Primošten, etc. Fishing for tuna and other big game fish.

QNikola Subic Zrinski 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 923 50 26, info@game-fishing-adriatic.com, www.gamefishing-adriatic.com. ​Full-day boat charter: 800 euros for max 4-5 people. Price includes fuel, equipment, food and drink.

Bungee Jumping Leaping from the bridge over the Krka river is an amazing experience, or so those who have tried it tell us. An experience both for the person jumping, and for their loved ones watching with their hearts in their mouths. Fancy stretching out a few ligaments? On your own head be it…

QŠibenik Bridge, tel. (+385-) 091 195 19 30/(+385-) 091 253 12 98, info@bungee.com.hr, www.bungee.com.hr.

July 1 - September 1 Open 10:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. 280kn (jump).

Discover Dalmatia Tourist Agency Rafting on Cetina river.QSplitska 12, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 64 37 75, info@discover-dalmatia.hr, www. discover-dalmatia.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, Closed Sat, Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00. A 60 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Najada Diving QPut Jersan 17, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 60 20/(+385-) 098 959 24 15, anna.nokela@najada.com, www.najada. com. Open 08:30 - 19:00. N Vertigo Diving Center QHotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-) 098 20 90 73/ (+385-) 098 171 47 70, info@vertigo.hr, www.vertigo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Vodice Dive QVenca Vlahova 15, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 919 62 33/ (+385-) 098 191 45 97, vodice.dive@gmail.com, www. vodice-dive.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Excursions These are agencies which offer one-day trips and longer trips to suit your needs (Kornati and Krka excursion, Plitvice…).

Cromovens QD‑3, Andrije Kačića Miošića 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15, cromovens@si.t-com.hr, www.cromovens.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Kola fjaka Trips to Krka and Kornati National Parks.QE‑3, Dobrić 4, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 08/(+385-) 095 567 69 28, info@kolafjaka.com, www.kola-fjaka.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Nik Trips to Krapanj, Zlarin, Krka and Kornati National Parks..

QAnte Šupuka 5, tel. (+385-22) 33 85 50, sibenik@nik. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Leisure

hr, www.nik.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Tourist punkt Šibenik plus More intimate special tours, like Eco, Wine and dine, In search of the lost Mediterranean.QC‑4, Obala palih om‑ ladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, info@sibenikplus.com, www.sibenikplus.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Family Fun Happy Horse Farm (Kolan Horse Club) Amidst other farm animals the horses and ponies are the shining stars here. Visitors can choose from supervised horse and cart rides to adult and children rides. There is an open sports and recreation area and cute souvenirs to make your stay a memorable one.QDubravski put, tel. (+385-) 098 936 03 04, farmahappyhorse@gmail.com, www.kk-kolan.hr. Open by prior arrangement. Riding 100 - 150kn/h.

Solaris Aquapark Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and crazy rides!QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, info@ solaris.hr, www.solaris.hr. Šibenik Falconry Centre Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city centre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to protect birds of prey and educate the local public about wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for injured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it has become a major tourist attraction.

The centre receives birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are victims of their interaction with human civilization: typical cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or electric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were inappropriately kept as pets by humans.

The majority are successfully treated and returned to the wild. Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any birds currently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buzzards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients), a wonderful experience that will bring you face to face with creatures that you would normally never see at such facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

close quarters. Pre-booked groups may also be treated to displays of falconry.QŠkugori bb, Dubrava kod Šibenika, tel. (+385-) 091 506 76 10, sokolarski.centar@gmail. com, www.sokolarskicentar.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Admission 35 - 45kn.

Beaches Banj The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach volleyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restaurants, a children’s playground, and more.QJ‑2.

Jadrija Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the municipal beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat functional rows of changing cubicles.

Hotel Borovnik Archives

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Shopping

Juraj Dalmatinac Gallery Archives

Affordable Art We highlight here some pieces of artwork that are great and affordable in terms of prices range from 5 to 150 euros.

Head replicas from Saint James’ Cathedral A plaster replica of some of the 74 heads carved on the Cathedral’s façade most probably representing some of the citizens who lived during the life of the most prolific sculptor and architect of the Croatian Renaissance, Juraj Dalmatinac. The heads are realistic and reveal the character of the people, their features and feelings. These can be found in the Krka National Park gift shop (Trg Ivana Pavla II 5).

Plates by Natalija Klarica In the Dana Gallery (Dobrić 4) one can buy handpainted ceramic plates with motives of fish by painter Natalija Klarica which have a double function; they can be decorative and hung on a wall, or be sued for serving and eating. The choice is yours! Šibenik botun as a pendant Silver botun, or button as we say, which once adorned the male folk costumes, today can be found and purchased in the form of various jewellery pieces such as earrings, rings, pendants, pins for a tie, brooches, necklaces and so on. Also available at Krka National Park gift shop (Trg Ivana Pavla II 5).

The bag with the motif of Homo Volans In the gift shop of the Faust Vrančić Memorial Centre (see page xx for more about him), you can buy a cute little plastic bag with the motif of Homo Volans or The Flying Man - Vrančić’s draft of a parachute.

Vasko Lipovac reproductions on wood In the Juraj Dalmatinac Gallery (Don Krste Stošića 14) you can find reproductions of paintings by Vasko Lipovac, a Croatian painter, sculptor and printmaker known for his minimalist figurative work, on wooden blocks 12 x 12 x 2.5 cm.

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Antiques Antique Market A small yet charming antiques fair runs only on Fridays and Saturdays during winter, but in the summer season it is open every day except on Sundays. It just may happen that whilst passing by St. Francis’ Church, you find a rare copy of your favourite book or an old pocket watch or painting that will capture your heart and extend your home collection of antique items.QD/E/F‑2, Trg N.Tomasea, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 67/(+385-) 098 23 58 64, srecko.vuksic1@optinet.hr, www.antikvar2427.com.

Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. From May Open 09:00 19:00. Closed Sun. N

Art Galleries Dana A beautiful gallery where you can find that special gift, souvenir, or ornament, big or small, they have it all! All items and works are handmade by Croatian designers, painters, and ceramists... Worth a peek!QE‑3, Dobrić 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 47, natalija.klarica@hi.t-com.hr.

Open 09:30 - 21:00. J Juraj Dalmatinac Gallery In a beautiful setting that exudes the Mediterranean, you will find works of art by academic painters, jewellery and pieces of clothing by Croatian designers, and authentic souvenirs handmade and autochthonic to this area.QE‑3, Don Krste Stošića 14, tel. (+385-22) 64 37 90/(+385-) 091 288 79 91, info@galerijajurajdalmatinac.com, www. galerijajurajdalmatinac.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Lana Art A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia.QE‑2, Faus‑ ta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 91, lana.martinovic. cala@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Zlarinka Jewellery made from red Adriatic coral is hard to resist and is part of both the traditional and modern jewellery vernacular of Dalmatia.QNiz Bebana bb, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76, 099 191 68 87, zlarinka1@net.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior ar‑ rangement. A

made in croatia Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which happens to be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava, tel. (+385-22) 21 24 68, www.borovo. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping |croatian

shoe manufacturer|

The Borovo Company is the best-known shoe manufacturer in Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards shoes. Founded in 1931, with headquarters located in Vukovar, during the past 85 years, Borovo has built its identity not only in Croatia but in the entire region by producing stylish, urban, casual and sports footwear.

Materials used in production are all of the natural origins such as leather, 100% cotton canvas and natural rubber made from My Ballerinas

Startas Pink unicorn has been featured in fashion magazine Vogue.

BOROVO STORE IN ŠIBENIK Kralja Tomislava BB

Charlie Design Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials.QE‑3, Mesarske Stube 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 62 57, www.charliedesign.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. J­A Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QStjepana Radića 4h, tel. (+385-22) 21 51 61, www.guliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Koke Design As you straddle by Saint James’ Cathedral this little workshop is packed with colourful and uplifting clothes, bags, scarves, jewellery, and more. It is a tad hippy and there is something that suits everyone’s taste.QE‑3, Kralja Tomis‑ lava bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 29 82, kokealeks@yahoo.com, www.kokedesign.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 17:00. A

Delicatessen Barone Shop So you’ve just tried a glass of wine in the bistro that’s tingled the tonsils, then head into the shared space of the facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

caoutchouc that is also produced in the factory. Following the idea of unique quality shoes, Borovo designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted with special care and love by at least 20 caring hands.

The Big Blue

Brands like Startas, Borosana, Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and The Big Blue are modern and stylish shoes for different generations and lifestyles.

Startas sneakers are entirely handmade, vegan, with coolest designs. croatian souvenir www.borovo.hr

Barone bistro and enter its wine shop, here you can buy wines as well as original products by Croatian product designers.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, barone@muzej-sibenik.hr, www.barone.hr. A Bibich All the Bibich wines are for sale here, as well as local rakijas and delicatessen products.QFra Luje Maruna 21, Sk‑ radin, tel. (+385-22) 77 16 15, galileo.skradin@gmail. com. Open 09:30 - 23:00. A Bobis Try their “lude torte” - or “crazy cakes” made from crispy layers, marzipan and spun sugar (warmed and spun by hand to form elaborate glassy shapes).QAnte Starčevića 2, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-) 099 396 46 66. Open 06:00 22:00.

Brkić Cutting and vacuuming ham domestic production.

QHrvatskih boraca 62, Vodice. Open 07:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:30 - 14:00. N Delikatese Vukšić This lovely deli shop at the city market is stocked with an abundance of local delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, olive oil, rakija and honey, as well as famous Slavonian kulen and homemade jams. A real treat for anyone’s tingling taste buds!QAnte Starčevića (green market), ivovuksic@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Summer 2016

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Shopping Gracin A small shop selling a variety of honeys, including sage, rosemary, and the unusual bramble honey (med od drače), plus advice on the amber elixir’s medicinal properties.QPut murve 4, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 091 510 08 19, rino.gracin@si.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. J­N Hrvatski otočni proizvod (Croatian Island Products) Delicacies of a tonne, all in one! A fab miniature convenience store with products from small producers across Croatian islands along the Adriatic. Food products, oils, fruit liqueurs, brandy, and jam to natural cosmetics and essential oils, souvenirs of olive wood, national costumes and more. Tip top souvenirs!QF‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 9.

Open 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. N

Juraj Dalmatinac Gallery Archives

Iločki podrumi Famous quality wines from the renowned wine cellars of the Croatian north-eastern shores of the Danube River can now be found in their own store in Šibenik. Ilok has a long and proud history of wine making and bottling, and is well known for their exclusively sealed cork.QSedam Omelića 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 55 37. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Kupi kavu i čaj Devotees to fine coffee and tea will fall in love with this wonderful store that sells homemade teas, as well as over 100 different varieties of coffee and tea from around the world. Supremo coffee from Columbia or Santo Domingo from the Domincian Republic are just some of the specialties. Here, one can also find local Croatian souvenirs and products.QE‑3, Zagrebačka 7, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 04, apex1@optinet.hr, www.kupikavuicaj.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. J­A Naših ruku djelo 2 A family owned business that outs heart and soul into their products, natural products made from natural resources.

From seed to jar, the Aralica family produce an assortment of authentic products that have been passed on from their ancestors. Find their liquors, jams, lavender, and cosmetics from olives and flora, even grappa. Lovely fragrances will enchant!QD‑4, Pod Kneževom palačom (Prvićka 12), tel. (+385-) 091 545 29 99. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Nira delicije When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in local delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pancetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry, orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat products for you. Take out only!QL‑3, Stjepana Radića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 252 75 01, drniskiprsut@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s 64 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Guliver Archives

Barone Shop Archives

all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’.QD‑3, Dragojevića Stube 1, tel. (+385-) 095 198 02 06, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Skradinske delicije As well as running a highly recommended restaurant, this family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk in the car park during the summer months where you can buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.QA‑ leja Skradinskih svilara 8, Skradin, www.skradinskedelicije.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Svijet čaja Devotees of tea may just find themselves in heaven with a vast range of teas from all four corners of the globe. Choose from black, green, ayurveda, herbal, fruit flavours and more.Q Fra Jeronima Milete 7, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 67, svijet.caja@hotmail.com, www.cajoteka.com.hr. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Sv. Lovro Olive Oil Rafinery Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here since 1854.QKrapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95, info@ tudic.hr, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open by prior ar‑ rangement. N Vinoplod A shop at the winery gates sells bottles at discount prices - a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babić.

QVelimira Škorpika 2, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 33 40 11, www.vinoplod-vinarija.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

farmers Market Pijaca The allure of asparagus, the charm of chard. Cheeky tomatoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can resist a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s marketplace is not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local produce and crazy characters. Why buy plastic fruit from the supermarket when you can buy the real thing and enjoy some friendly banter into the bargain?QG‑2/3, Stankovačka 9.

Open 06:00 - 13:00, Sun 06:00 - 11:00.

Shopping centres City Life QAnte Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, www.citylife.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. W Dalmare QVelimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 61, www. dalmare.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. W SP Supernova Šibenik QPut Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. W

Souvenirs Čivljak This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatin - filigree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, often elaborate in design.QF‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 64, zlatarnacivljak@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Deni Design Original jewellery hand-made from Adriatic coral and stones.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II bb (Fausta Vrančića 1), tel. (+385-22) 41 00 71, deni.design.nakit@gmail.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Galerija Sv. Kristofor A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and other religious items.QD‑3, Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385) 092 105 91 64. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. NP Krka Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.hr.

Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Crvenkapa (The Red Šibenik Cap) You might see on your travels in the Šibenik area a distinctive orange-red skullcap worn as a part of folk costume or used as a motif for local restaurants and products. It’s part of the rich folk heritage of this part of the world and is decorated with black wool and silk motifs.

Summer 2016

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Hotels 4 Stars D-Resort Šibenik QObala Jerka Šižgorića 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 14 52, reservation@dresortsibenik.com, www.dresortsibenik. com.

Heritage Hotel Life Palace QE‑3, Trg Šibenskih Palih Boraca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 05, reservations@hotel-lifepalace.hr, www.hotellifepalace.hr/en/homepage/.

Panorama QŠibenski most 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 33 98, fax (+38522) 21 31 11, info@hotel-panorama.hr, www.hotelpanorama.hr. doubles €70 - 152. P­i ­H­A­6­F­ L­G­B­K­X­C­W Solaris Beach Resort QHotelsko naselje Solaris bb, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, fax (+385-22) 36 18 00, info@solaris.hr, www.solaris. hr. Open March 22 - October 28. 1323 rooms (54 sin‑ gles €62 - 174, 589 doubles €79 - 193, 468 triples €81 - 165, 184 quads €91 - 220, 16 suites €114 - 340, 12 Junior Suites €181 - 380). P­T ­H ­A ­U ­L ­G­ K­w­W Tisno QZapadna Gomilica 8, Tisno, tel./fax (+385-22) 43 81 82, info@hoteltisno.com, www.hoteltisno.com. doubles €60 - 260. P­Z ­i ­A­R­L­G­C­W

3 Stars Jadran QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 52, tel. (+385-22) 24 20 00, fax (+385-22) 44 26 11, rivijera@si.t-com.hr, www. rivijera.hr. doubles €57 Prices are per person. P­i ­J­ H­A­G­B­K­W

Hostel Globo QG‑3, Sarajevska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 337 37 44/(+385-) 091 337 37 45, info@hostel-globo.com, www.hostelglobo.com. 50 dorm beds, 99 - 140kn per person.

P­N­G­W Indigo QF‑3, Jurja Barakovića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 01 59/(+385) 091 337 37 44, info@hostel-indigo.com, www.hostelindigo.com. 16 dorm beds, 112kn per person. P­J­ R­G­W Mare QD‑2, Kralja Zvonimira 40, tel. (+385-22) 21 52 69/ (+385-) 098 180 59 38, hostel.mare@gmail.com, www. hostel-mare.com. 43 dorm beds, 100 - 150kn per per‑ son. P­J­A­G­W 66 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Splendido QG‑3, Eugena Kvaternika 11, tel. (+385) 091 150 30 29, hostel.splendido@gmail.com, www.hostel-splendido. com. 40 dorm beds, 99 - 125kn per person. P­A­G­W

Out of town Borovnik QTrg Šime Vlašića 3, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 97 00, fax (+385-22) 43 97 11, info@hotel-borovnik.com, www. hotel-borovnik.com. doubles 590 - 1020kn. P­i ­T­ H­A­L­G­K­C­W hhh Hotel Life QRtić 12E, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 81 28, fax (+385-22) 55 81 34, info@hotel-life.hr, www.hotel-life. hr. doubles €214 - 345. P­i ­H­A­L­G­K­D­C­ w­W hhhh Kristina QŠetalište Miše Sladoljeva 3, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 41 73, fax (+385-22) 44 04 73, hotel-kristina@si.t-com. hr, www.hotelkristina.net. 20 rooms (20 doubles 400 500kn). A­L­G­B­K­W hh Mihovil QAnte Anića 3, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 44 44, fax (+385-22) 66 44 42, slavko.zivkovic@si.t-com.hr, www. hotelmihovil.com. doubles 450 - 650kn. P­i ­A­6­ L­G­B­K­X­W hhh Olympia QLjudevita Gaja 6, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 24 52, fax (+385-22) 45 24 20, prodaja@olympiavodice.hr, www. olympiavodice.hr. doubles €66 - 262. P­i ­T­H­A­ U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­w­W hhhh Vrata Krke QLozovac bb, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 80 92, fax (+385-22) 77 80 91, info@vrata-krke.hr, www.vratakrke.hr. doubles 420 - 700kn. P­i ­H­A­R­U­L­ G­B­K­W hhh

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Bunja domaćinova Bunja domaćinova

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

Zelena šljiva Green plum

Žirje

Muna

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

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Bus station

Zlarin

Muzejska zbirka koralja Coral museum collection

Otok Lupac Lupac Island

Otok Žirje Žirje Island

Jadrija

Maslina Olive tree

Crveni koralj Red coral

Otok Zlarin Zlarin Island

Gospa od Rašelja Our Lady of Raselj

Šetnica Walk path

Marina Solaris

Soline male Lake Soline Male

. An te Ka na l sv

K ra

Solaris Resort

ira

Marina Mandalina

BALDEKIN

Škrpina Red scorpionfish

Muzejska zbirka spužvi Sponge museum collection

VIDICI

Nacionalni park S. Ra dić Kornati a

Nacionalni

Morska spužva Sponges

Otok Krapanj Krapanj Island

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Brodarica

Pu

ioc

a

33

Maslina Olive tree

Muflon The mouflon

Bedem Fortification wall

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Crveno grožđe Red grapes

Red grapes

Airport Zadar 50 km Crveno grožđe

ZAGREB

Early Croatian cemetery Kosa

Starohrvatsko groblje Kosa

SPLIT

Šparadići

Split 50 km

SPLIT Crkva sv. Ana Airport St. Anna Church

Crkva sv. Margarita St. Margaret Church

Jadrtovac

DRNIŠ

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Jarebica The rock partridge

Ovca Sheep

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Vrpolje 58

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Airport Zadar 50 km

SPLIT

Boraja

SPLIT

Nacionalni park Kornati

Ovca Sheep

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

Perković

DRNIŠ Danilo

Crkva sv. Danijel St. Daniel Church

Rider Rider

Nacionalni 50 km park Kornati

Zadar

Pršut Prosciutto Airport

ZAGREB

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

KNIN

DRNIŠ

Pršut Prosciutto

Ovčji sir Sheep’s milk cheese

Tematski park Etnoland

Etnoland Theme park

Industrijska zona Podi Entrepreneurial Zone

A1

Zec Rabbit

Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church

Lozovac

Sokolarski centar Falconry Centre

Morinje

Donje polje

Grebaštica

Žaborić

Smokva Figs

Zec Rabbit

Entrance NP Krka

Visovac

Samostan Majke od milosti Mother of Mercy Convent

Crkva Gospa od zdravlja Our Lady of Health Church

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Bijelo grožđe White grapes

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Konjički klub Pegasus Riding club Pegasus

Smokva Figs

RAŽINE

Gradsko groblje Kvanj City Cemetery Kvanj tB

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Entrance NP Krka

Dubrava

Konjički klub Kolan Riding club Kolan

SPLIT

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Marina Skradin

Skradin

Airport Zadar 50 km

ZAGREB

Žižula Ziziphus jujuba

Tvrđava Barone park - Šubićevac Barone Fortress Kornati

ŠUBIĆEVAC

SPLIT

8

A1

Tvrđava sv. Ivana St. John Fortress

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Crkva sv. Križ Holy Cross Church

Plaža Rezalište Rezalište Beach

AquaPark

Soline velike Lake Soline Velike

Z vo

Airport Zadar 50 km

Jarebica The rock partridge

MANDALINA

lja nim

Zec Rabbit

Srdela European pilchard

CRNICA

Tvrđava sv. Mihovila St. Michael Fortress

NJIVICE

Zapadna magistrala

Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral

Plaža Banj City Beach

Pidoča Mediterranean mussel

Bilice

Vepar Wild boar

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Prukljan

Jakobova kapica Scallop Pectinidae

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Martinska

Zablaće

Crkva Marijinog Uznesenja Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Zubatac Common dentex

Raslina

Crkva sv. Vida St. Vid Church

Crkva sv. Mihovil St. Michael Church

Tvrđava sv. Nikola St. Nicholas Fortress

Kupalište Jadrija Jadrija Beach

Maslina Olive tree

Prižba Prizba

Tržnica

Smokva Figs

Marina Zaton

Crkva sv. Roko St. Rocco Church

Bogdanovići

Otok Zmajan Zmajan Island

Gradina Gradina Fortress

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Kaprije

Otok Kaprije Kaprije Island

20 nm

Kakan Island

Zaton

27

Crkva Gospa Srimska Crveno grožđe Our Lady of Srima Church Red grapes

BENKOVAC

Plava

Jedrenje na dasci

Pristanište Dock

Trgovački centar Shopping park

ZADAR

Nalazište

Plaža Beach

Bungee skokovi Bungee Jumping

Ronjenje Diving

Benzinska postaja Gas station

Memorijalni centar Faust Vrančić Faust Vrancic Memorial

Otok Kakan

Otok Prvić Prvic Island

Prvić Šepurine Prvić Luka

Crkva sv. Jelena St. Jelena Church

Srima

BENKOVAC

Vodice

ZADAR

Muzej Museum

Kamp Camp

Informacije Information Center

Vezovi Moorings

Crkva Gospa Okitska Our Lady of Okitska Church

Zec Rabbit

Marina Marina

Bolnica Hospital

Vodeni park AquaPark

Market

Šetnice Walk path

Biciklistička staza Cycling track

zastava Blue Flag beach

Wind surfing

Tvrđava Fortress

Hotel Accommodation

Katedrala Cathedral

Archeological site

Stipanac

or a

Šibenik i okolica Sibenik area map

a rpik Ško ira Veli m

az V. N

ZAGREB

la tra gis ma na Juž

istrala a mag Srednj

A

B

C

ŠIBENIK

plan stare gradske jezgre old city center map

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Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral Crkva sv. Ivana St. John’s Church Crkva sv. Frane, samostan i muzej St. Franci’s Church and Monastery Crkva sv. Krševana St. Grisogonu’s Church (Krševan) Nova Crkva New Church Crkva sv. Duha Church of the Holy Spirit Crkva sv. Nikole St. Nichola’s Church Crkva sv. Barbare St. Barbara’s Church Crkva sv. Križa Church of the Holy Cross Crkva Svi Sveti All Saint’s Church Crkva Uspenie Bogomatere Ascension Church Crkva sv. Dominika St. Dominic’s Church Crkva sv. Grgura St. Gregory’s Church Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church Crkva Gospe vanka Grada “Gospe Vanka Grada” Church Crkva sv. Nediljice St. Nediljica Church Gradska vijećnica The Town Hall Palača Rossini Rossini Palace Palača Foscolo Foscolo Palace Palača Pellegrini Pellegrini Palace Palača Gogala Gogala Palace Benediktanski samostan sv. Luce St. Luce Benedictine Monastery Crkva sv. Spasa St Savior Church

P Parking lot 15.1.1873. D/E-2 17 buntovnika C-2 A. Zorčića C/D-3 Andrije Kačića C-2 Antuna Vrančića F-3 B. Fulgosi D-2 Biskupa Fosca F-3 Blajburskih žrtava G-1/2 Bonnina iz Milana E-2 Božidara Petranovića E-2/3 Braće Polić D-1/2 Bregovita B/C-1 Bukovačka C-3 Buta Har. Bilinića B/C-3/4 Crnica A-1 Dobrić E-3 Dolac B-3 Don Krste Stošića D/E-3 Dragojevićeve stube D-3 Eugena Kvaternika G-3 F. Dismanića D-3

F. Divinića D-3/4 Fausta Vrančića E-2 Fra Nikole Ružića E-3 Fra S. Zlatovića G-3 Grgura Ninskog E-2 H. Fortenezze E-3 I. Mrnavića C-3 Istarska C/D-1 Ivana Pribislavića E-3 Ive Zaninovića A/B-1 J. Barakovića F-3/4 J. Mondelle A-2 J. Utješanovića D-3 J. Petrovića D-2 Jurja Dalmatinca B/C-3 Jurja Šišgorića F-3 Kninska D-2 Kralja Tomislava E/F-3 Kralja Zvonimira C/G-3 Kraljice Jelene F-2 Krste Stošića D/E-3

Pharmacy

M. Kolunića C/D-3 Mali prolaz C-3 Mesarske stube E-3 Miminac F-1/2 Mulo Krke G-4 Nikole Tesle F/G-1 Nikole Vladanova D-2/3 Nove crkve E-2 Obala F. Tuđmana E/F-4 Obala hr. mornarice G-4 Ob.palih omladinaca B/D-4 Obala prvoboraca A-2 Paške Zjačića E-1 Pekarska E-3 Perivoj Roberta Visianija G-3 Petra Nakića F-3 Pod tvrđavom C-3 Poljana F/G-2 Prolaz kroz zidine A-2 Prominska C-3 Prvička D-4

Information Center Put groblja C-2 Put Splita F-2 Put Tanaje C-1 Put tvrđavama D-1 Put Vuka Mandušića E-1 Riječka F/G-2 Sarajevska G-3 S. Čulinovića D-3 Skoka D-2 Skradinska D-2 Splitski put G-3 Srimska A-2 St.P.Kaera D-4 Stara cesta C-1 Starog kazališta E/F-2 Strme stube D-3 Stube A. Medulića D-3 Sv. Julijana E-3/4 Sv. Križa A-2 Sv. Luce D-3 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-3

Accomodation

Toilets

Sv. Spasa G-1 Šubićev. šetalište E/F-1 Težačka E/F-1 Tijatska C/D-1 Trg Dinka Zavorovića E-3 Trg I. G. Kovačića F-3 Trg Ivana Pavla II E-3 Trg Julija Skjavetića F-3 Trg kralja Držislava F-2 Trg Nikole Tommasea F-3 Trg palih Šib. boraca E-3 Trg Pavla Šubića E-4 Trg pućkih kapetana D-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-4 Ul. Sedmog kontin. D/E-1 Ul. Graditelja D-2 Ul. gradska vrata D-4 Ul. Petra Grubišića G-1/2 Ul. Vladimira Nazora G-2/3 Uskočka F-4 Varoš E-2

D

E

Night life Vodička E-3/4 Vukman E-1 Z.Bege E-1 Zadarska D-1, E-2 Zagrađe A/B-2 Zagrebačka E/F-3 Zatonska B-2 Zlarinska E-4

Photo by Sky Action - Ivan Ercegović

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