Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No12

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

DUBROVNIK

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

Summer 2013

Get a taste of local cuisine The Mouth - watering Mediterranean N°12 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Camping in Croatia A true outdoor experience

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CONTENTS

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Dubrovnik

6

Where the action is

Basics

9

Basic Tips

Introducing Dubrovnik

10

What’s it all about?

Culture & Events

11

Renaissance art to island reggae

Camping in Croatia

15

Sleep under the stars

Where to stay

18

Home sweet home

Local Flavours

23

Dubrovnik's best tradicional goodies

Restaurants

25

Enjoy the riches

Cafés

41

The cat got the cream

Nightlife

42

When you just gotta boogie

At one of the children’s workshops, part of the Kinookus Food Film Festival in Ston, the Italian artist Claudia Brugnaletti and the children created a model replica of the Ston landscape using seashells and other natural materials.

What to see

46

Keep your eyes open

Leisure

55

Climbing, diving and horseback riding

Getting around

58

Planes, trains & Automobiles

Shopping

61

Special souvenirs from Dubrovnik

Directory

68

Dubrovnik Neretva County

69

Out and about around the city

Maps

Olive oil, which is rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, is an important part of the Mediterranean diet and helps lower dangerous blood cholesterol and is rich in vitamins and antioxidants.

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Country map Street register City map City centre map County map

76 77 78 80 82

Summer 2013

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FOREWORD Do the words grand, majestic or even striking ring a bell? Well, you’ve just arrived to a fortified seaside town that has enough history, legend and natural beauty to fully render the above words true.

They city of Dubrovnik is a unique and somewhat amazing place. Indeed your first glimpse of the town especially when descending along the airport road can easily turn out to be a heart-stopping, love-at-first-sight experience. But by golly, you simply have to soak in the who, when, why and how of what’s in and around this city in order to feel its essence.

With the gorgeous summer sun and Mediterranean climate a sought after attraction,some of the holiday charms include a visit to the Konavle area and its country farms rich in olive groves and wine cellars, or head up to Mount Srđ by cable car and at 400 metres above sea level take some amazing photos. Water adventure activities are always a hit as well as visiting close by islands. There are loads of events and festivals, as well as night clubs for party goers with café culture part and parcel of life here!

Our informative guide brings you multitudes of events and all the must know details for tourists, plus a special edition dedicated to local cuisine, accommodation and camping in Croatia.

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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-0852 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

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It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name.

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Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson Marinović, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Researcher Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Maja Knezić, Gordan Karabogdan, Krešimir Šporčić Photos In Your pocket team, Thanks to all the institutions who gave us permission to use their photographs in DIYP Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2013. Maps copyright of the cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

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Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels, Travel Agencies, ...

Dubrovnik Card Special tourist discount card

Daily Card

3-day Card

Weekly Card

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 24 h public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 10 public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 20 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

No charge for children up to 12 years old

No charge for children up to 12 years old

ONLY

ONLY

ONLY

130,00 kn

180,00 kn

220,00 kn

Includes free entrance to: City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery Includes: discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car discount, discounts on souvenirs, ...

www.dubrovnikcard.com

6

ARRIVING IN DUBROVNIK

Gruž by Ivana Stanešić

By boat

By plane

There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik‘s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It‘s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.

Parking costs 40 kn for the first 24 hours, and 2 kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (20 Kuna one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.

Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. (+020) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

By bus The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3 kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:30, 5 kn for the first hour, and 1.50 kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15 kn from the driver or 12 kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 0800 09 70.

By train Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrowgauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train to either Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services from Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their journey by bus.

By car

Tourist information

For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik. Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you‘re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy!

L

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Tourist Information Centre Gruž H-1,

Obala Stjepana Radića 32, tel. (+38520) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@tzdubrovnik. hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 20:00 Tourist Information Centre Lapad H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured. lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. October Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Tourist Information Centre Pile C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 20:00 Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board I-3, Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, info@ visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Dubrovnik Tourist Board D-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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BASICS

BASICS Customs Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you‘re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 April 9 May 1 June 7 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you‘re prepared to move inside.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a proble

There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik which come at a cost of 5 kn. Three of them are in the Old City area (two in Pile and one in Ploče), open 07:00 - 23:00 and one in the Gruž area at the Fishmarket, open 07:00 - 02:00.

Roads

Visas

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer

EU! Here we come! Since Croatia is becoming a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Toilets

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe‘s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

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Summer 2013

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INTRODUCING DUBROVNIK It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to u n d erstan d h ow deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride.

And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and h ospi tali t y. I t’s n ot an empty or boastful pride.

Why does the city look the way it does? Why Ivana Stanešić all th ose walls an d bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter.

That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.

But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy,

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.

The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in one’s surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today.

This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, in 2012 held for the 63rd time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.

Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses.

It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong.

It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

The Dubrovnik International Opera Festival Hommage Tino Pattiena Archives

Exhibitions 04.12 Tuesday - 31.10 Thursday

Poison and medicine hidden in plants C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Forget the classic myths and folk tales about plants as remedies, this exhibit will detail 44 types of plants which can either cure or poison people if not used properly. Find out what is used in the pharmaceutical industry, synthetic versus herbal medication, side-effects, chemical extractions and much more. It‘s medical and totally educational.

22.01 Tuesday - 22.12 Sunday

Fish of the Dubrovnik region

C-4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. There‘s nothing fishy with this exhibit, or is there? Indeed, see the local robust underwater air bubbling locals that live in the Dubrovnik area. The exhibition will become a part of the permanent display of the Natural Science Museum, and will fit into the complete concept of this museum in the future.

01.05 Wednesday - 28.07 Sunday

Cedric Gerbehaye - Land of Cush C-2, Antuninska 6, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd.com. The civil war in Sudan, the largest country in Africa, caused so much suffering that the death toll rose to over two million casualties. North versus South demolished a nation wi th huge oil reserves, 80% of which is held by the South. With independence around the corner, photographer Cedric Gerbehaye produces some vivid images of the heartache and hope that Cederic Gebergaye still exists.

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25.01. Friday - 30.09.Monday

Marinko Babić - Underwater Blues Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. As the old saying goes ‘there are plenty of fish in the sea‘ but Marinko Babić is purely concerned with the beauty that lays sea deep. See his third exhibition of 42 amazing photos depicting the seabed with a video projection of 376 underwater photos accompanying the exhibition.

01.05 Wednesday - 31.10 Thursday

Ex Yugoslavia 1991-1999

C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. The expression every picture tells a story has its merit.

This permanent collection of images presents some of the world‘s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Larson, Yannis Behrakis and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.

01.05 Wednesday - 28.07 Sunday

Wade Goddard - Enclave

C-2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Warning, this is not a

Candle light Concerts What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit classical concert in the atmospheric surroundings of St Saviour‘s Church right on the Stradun?

June, September, October Dubrovnik String Quartet B-2, St Saviour‘s Church. Classic Evergreens Cycle. Q Wednesdays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn.

Slobodan Begić - violin, Nena Ćorak - piano

B-2, St Savior‘s Church. The Best of the Great Composers Cycle. Q Fridays at 21:00. Tickets 100kn.

Sorkočević Quartet B-2, St Saviour‘s Church.

Evening Serenades Cycle. Q Mondays at 21:00.

Tickets 100kn.

Summer 2013

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CULTURE & EVENTS The Linđo Folk Ensamble B-3, Jadran Summer Cinema, Za Rokom bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 23/(+385-) 091 571 79 63, www. lindjo.hr. One of Croatia‘s finest exports, the Linđo folk ensemble, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season (except during 10.07-25.08 when they perform at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival). High-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Jadran Summer Cinema, starting at 21:30. Q Tickets 100kn.

Venetians and Turks. When the disastrous 1667 earthquake struck he sends experts, money, food, machines, architects and more to rebuild his Dubrovnik. This marks the 400th anniversary of one of Dubrovnik‘s greatest sons.

Special events 21.06 Friday - 23.06 Sunday

Ana u Gradu Festival

www.anarucner.com. Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and with four concerts scheduled, this is a chance to enjoy both chamber and contemporary classical music by Ana and her guests.

21.06 Friday - 28.06 Friday

Le Petit Festival du Theatre - The Beauty of Women D-3, Marin Držić Museum, Široka 7; In front of Church Saint Blaise; Lazareti; Veli Žali, Brsečine, www.lepetitfestival.com. Groundbreaking art and entertainment of all sorts! Choose from a one act play about the fascinating life of a stripper, a tango salon inviting you to dance, a lecture on the life of Ann Frank and much more. The highlight is in photography and of course an exhibit and lecture by iconic New York photographer Robert Faber. You simply must visit www.lepetitfestival.com for more details.

03.07 Wednesday - 06.07 Saturday computer game, this is real war! Young photographer Wade Goddard lived with a family inside the city of Mostar in 1993, the catch is that the city was under siege at the time. He documents the destitution of living in a city turned ghetto, its residents queuing for water and food, and collecting firewood to survive. Raw indeed!

10.05 Friday - 10.06 Monday

Monumental Motion

B-3, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, www. dumus.hr. Throw away the car keys and do as the Danes do, ride their bikes. Danish artist Mikael Colville-Andersen follows the life of Copenhagen citizens as they live and breathe their culture of bicycles. This exhibition sends a strong and inspiring message to visitors to use their bicycles more actively in their everyday lives. Helmets on and as they say in English, ‘on your bike‘!

05.06 Wednesday

Josip Trostman

L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www. ugdubrovnik.hr. This home-grown talent found his calling for art at the age of 9 and has never looked back. Having graduated at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb in 1963, Trostmann has participated in numerous solo and group exhibitions in both Croatia and abroad.

August - September

Dubravka Lošić

L-5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Put Frana Supila 23, www. ugdubrovnik.hr. Dubravka Lošić is a multi-talented artist who has held solo and group exhibitions since 1983. She has spread her wings beyond painting and also works as a costume and stage designer.

June - October Stephanus Gradius - The Father of the Homeland

D-3, Rector‘s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr/en/.

When one man‘s efforts do so much that an entire city could perish or advance? When from Italy afar he works tirelessly in diplomatic circles to protect his Dubrovnik from invading

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Dubrovnik International Opera Festival D-3, Atrium of the Rector‘s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, www. dubrovnik-opera-festival.com. Love opera! Then look no further as this festival becomes a melting pot for opera singers, ensembles and symphony orchestras worldwide. Artists from Austria, Russia, Poland, Colombia, and Mexico will perform amongst others. The event enriches the city‘s cultural offer and is dedicated to the legendary world renowned Dubrovnik opera singer, Tino Pattiera.

10.07 Wednesday - 25.08 Sunday

64th Dubrovnik Summer Festival www.dubrovnik-festival.hr. One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 64th edition, this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Minčeta Fortress and the Rector‘s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.

Stephanus Gradius This year, the City of Dubrovnik pays homage to one of its greatest sons, Stjepan Gradić. It‘s the 400th anniversary since his birth and 330th anniversary since his passing. Gradić was a great philosopher, astronomer and humanitarian. He studied in Rome and later became the main director of the Vatican Library. After the big earthquake in 1667 which left Dubrovnik in tatters, he organised aid for his home city and greatly contributed in rebuilding it and its famous Cathedral which this year also celebrates its 300th anniversary with a rich programme of events including seminars, holy mass, communal prayer and more.. So, it is righteous that numerous city museums are organising a large exhibition in his honour.

The Croatian state is also partaking by issuing a post stamp dedicated to Gradić on April 16 as part of its ‘Famous Croats‘ series.

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Concerts 13.08 Tuesday

Amira Medunjanin F-2, Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8. Dubbed the ‘Bosnain Billie Holliday’, Amira sings traditional Bosnian folk music characterised by a slow tempo mixture of Oriental, European and Sephardic elements with rich harmony and melancholic melody. She reinvigorates songs dating hundreds of years with her unique and expressive voice.

14.08 Wednesday

Libar

L-2, Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8. Acapella music meets a modern fusion of various musical genres such as acoustic pop and rock. Having formed in 2007, these gents love to experiment and play both covers and originals. Hear classics

by Sting, Eric Clapton, the Eurhythmics and others as played in the unique klapa style.

17.08 Saturday

Cold Snap

L-2, Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8. Cranking the music scene up a gear, Cold Snap brings some heavy frozen metal to a hot summer season. This Croatian nu/groove metal band with their energetic heavy riffs has played with the likes of Pro-Pain, Limp Bizkit and Soulfly. If you love your metal, then this shapes up as being a holiday highlight.

Classical Music 29.06 Saturday

Weltschmerz - Scenic patchwork from Romanticism Cycle D-3, Rector‘s Palace, Pred Dvorom 1, w w w.sveostalojeglazba. c o m . To t a l l y new and Made in Dubrovnik!

Educational musi c-th ea tre p er forman c es delivered in scenic patchworks.

Characters por traye d as cleaning ladies, cooks and librarThe rest is music organisation Archives ians bring to life the composers of the music you hear in a pseudo comical context. The repertoire includes two scenic patchworks, ‘Mozart-Bach-Scarlatti-Weiss‘ and ‘A. Schubertiade‘. Well groomed theatre with a splash of satire!

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Cinemas

Aquarium by Dr. Sc. Igor Brautović

CineStar G-2, Masarykov put 3, Dvori Lapad, tel(+385- ) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr. Q Box office open an hour before the first projection. Online and telephone reservations possible. Telephone reservations 13:00 -21:30, Fri 13:00 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30.

Jadran Summer Cinema B-3, Za Rokom bb, www. kinematografi.org. This cinema is open during the summer season, from mid June to the end of September, depending on the weather. It is also one of the venues for the Dubrovnik Summer Festival!

Slavica Summer Cinema J-3, Na Boninovu, www. kinematografi.org. This cinema is also open during the summer season, from mid June to the end of September, depending on the weather and is also one of the venues for the Dubrovnik Summer Festival!

Galleries Dubrovnik Ar t Gallery (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) L-5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42

65 90, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30kn.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) D-3,

Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 72, info@ ugdubrovnik.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the Rector‘s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery‘s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika‘s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it‘s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn‘t get

Homeland War 1991-1995 Imperial Fort, Srđ, dumus.hr. Over 500 artefacts are exhibited at the Fort Imperial building on Srđ Hill, considered a symbol in the defence of Dubrovnik. It includes photographs, published material, weapons, explosives, war maps and commands, authentic video footage, war memorabilia, flags, diaries and more. The Srđ Hill is also home to a memorial with the names of all the defenders who had lost their lives defending Dubrovnik at that very spot. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Admission 15 - 30kn.

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CULTURE & EVENTS Revelin Fortress

Ana u Gradu Festival by Željko Tutnjević a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Svetog Dominika 1. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik‘s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando‘s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic‘s mint and customs house - all the Republic‘s trade passed through here. It was built 15161522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 199192 (Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city‘s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic.

In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes. Q Admission 15 - 25kn.

War Photo Limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. October Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn.

E-1, dumus.hr/en/. Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions. The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it‘s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century. The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built.

Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men. Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian danger.

Ascend one floor and enter the new age, a Virtual Museum with seven huge touch screens allowing visitors to see archived documents, walk through summer residences and parks, set eyes on the Cathedral, flip old coins of the Dubrovnik Republic, visit Ston and the ancient fortresses and holiday villas in the region. Some of these are mostly inaccessible to the public and are an extremely important part of Dubrovnik‘s heritage.

QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed.

Božidar Gjukić War Photography 1991-1992

D-3, Rector‘s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, dumus.hr.

‘A photo can speak a thousand words‘ and a selection of city museums have come together to present eighty thought-provoking, vivid photos depicting Dubrovnik and its surroundings during the Homeland War, in 1991/1992. Twenty years on, the role and importance of war photography testifies to the truth.

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Park Orsula Festival Archives

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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CAMPING IN CROATIA

Got heaps of time on your hands this summer but not so much money? Get thyself a tent, dear friend, and indulge in the joys of camping! There‘s 1000km of coast at your disposal in Croatia, and almost as many islands. There are forests and meadows, rivers and mountains, all waiting to be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback or even on your trusty four wheels.

Croatia‘s campsites grew up during the 20th century to cater for everyone from inter-railing students to well-off families in motor homes that are better-equipped than many peoples‘ apartments. People love the freedom that camping offers.

You can head off on a great road trip, stopping where you fancy. And there‘s something special about crawling into your very own nylon and fiberglass home or lying back in a deckchair while steaks sizzle on the barbecue and cicadas chirrup all around.

Food and drink Camping is a great way to get to know a country. When it comes to mealtimes, you get to choose between sampling local restaurants or exploring shops and markets for local produce. Campsites usually have inexpensive eateries onsite or nearby, and in our experience they‘ve always been fine, serving stuff like grilled mackerel, fried sardines, squid,

Designated Campsites only!

Don‘t be tempted to set up camp at the roadside for the night!

It might earn you a fine. Camping in Croatia is only allowed at proper campsites or designated parking facilities for camper vans.

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risottos, grilled meats and salads. And when it‘s time for a light snack, is there any better taste than freshly-baked bread and ripe tomatoes drizzled with home-produced olive oil, eaten in the shade?

Creature comforts The best news is that in recent years the standard of facilities in campsites has improved considerably. Whether you‘re heading for the quietest outpost on the remotest island or the biggest resorts on the tourist itinerary, these days your shower block is mostly modern and clean, while washing machines, fridges and barbecues will probably be at your disposal. An increasing number of sites offer facilities for dog owners such as designated beaches and dog showers.

Some campsites offer beautifully-appointed mobile homes or bungalows, others have communal areas that look like trendy lounge bars, and an increasing number are open all year and have heated facilities. Many campsites have also have tents and trailers for rent so you can camp even if you don‘t have kit of your own.

Fresh air and exercise Since folks who enjoy camping tend to enjoy the great outdoors, it‘s a happy coincidence that many campsites are located slap-bang next to (or even within) the country‘s national parks and other beauty spots. Most camping facilities are on (or near) the coast, but inland Croatia is finally getting its moment in the sun, with increasing numbers of guests opting for a change from the usual sea and sun combination. Wherever you are there are usually plenty of sports and outdoor activities laid on, from hiking and biking to climbing and diving, to name just a few. On the coast, campsites tend to have the cleanest beaches. On the islands, which offer perhaps the best combination of peace, attractive surroundings and interesting stuff to do, a whopping 98% of Blue Flag beaches are those attached to campsites.

The following are among the top campsites in Croatia when it

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CAMPING IN CROATIA Naturist Camping The Croatian coast has for decades been a top destination for fans of naturist (clothing-free) holidays. German advocates of the Freikörperkultur (“Free Body Culture”, or “FKK”) philosophy of healthy living helped establish naturist facilities here in the early 20th century. Where you see the FKK sign, that means you‘re about to enter a naturist zone. Nowadays, although you‘ll find naturist beaches at almost every resort along the coast, there are some spots which are particularly well-known for catering for naturists. Examples are Rab island where the first naturist beach was established; the Istrian island of Koversada, one of the largest naturist resorts in Europe; the islet of Jerolim just offshore from Hvar town (Hvar island), and the Valalta complex near Rovinj in Istria. You can choose between fully naturist campsites, clothing-optional campsites and regular campsites with naturist bathing onsite. If you‘re off the beaten track, you‘re sure to find a secluded spot where it‘s perfectly well-tolerated for naturists to sunbathe and swim. Croatia is one of the three countries in Europe with the most naturist camping facilities. Most of them are on the northern part of the coast (Istria and Kvarner). Here are our suggestions: Sovinje (Zadar), Bunculuka (Baška, otok Krk), Nudist (Split), Konobe (Krk), Koversada (Vrsar), Ulika (Poreč), Kamp Baldarin (Mali Lošinj).

Things to do Apart from activities organised by campsites, we recommend the following things to do during your stay. comes to facilities and family-friendly entertainment: Zaton near Zadar (winner of an ADAC “Best Family Campsite” award), Soline near Biograd, San Marino at Lopar (Rab island), Solaris near Šibenik, Straško near Novalja (Pag island), the camping park at Umag, Poljana on Mali Lošinj island, Kovačine at Cres town (Cres island), the campsite at Krk town (Krk island), and Zelena Laguna at Poreč.

The big campsites If you’re looking for activities and entertainment the big campsites have most to offer. On the beaches you’ll find pedaloes, water slides, bananas, jet skis and more. There are tennis courts, volleyball courts, five-a-side football pitches and table tennis tables. You can rent bikes, mopeds and small boats.

And for families with small children, there are usually beaches suitable for kids, as well as hosts and hostesses who will keep the little ones entertained while you take a well-earned break.

The following are among the top campsites in Croatia when it comes to facilities and family-friendly entertainment: Zaton near Zadar (winner of an ADAC “Best Family Campsite” award), Soline near Biograd, San Marino at Lopar (Rab island), Solaris near Šibenik, Straško near Novalja (Pag island), the camping park at Umag, Poljana on Mali Lošinj island, Kovačine at Cres town (Cres island), the campsite at Krk town (Krk island), and Zelena Laguna at Poreč.

San Marino on Rab island The San Marino holiday complex in Lopar on Rab island is named after the saint who also gave his name to the tiny republic of San Marino, just across the Adriatic.

Legend has it that San Marino (or Saint Marinus) was born in Lopar in the 4th century AD

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Istria In Istria, head for Beram, a hamlet of 200 souls where the Church of St Mary on Škriljinah has an amazing fresco of the Danse Macabre dating from 1747. At Bale, a picturesque little inland town that Casanova is said to have visited, in the Ulika gallery you can see dinosaur remains that were found nearby.

Pazin in the heart of Istria is noted for its karst cave where the Pazin river plunges underground. The cave is said to have inspired Jules Verne for his fantastic stories. Take a peek into the shipwreck of the Baron Gautsch, an Austrian passenger ship which sank in 1914. It lies 40m below the surface 6 nm southwest of the island and lighthouse named Sveti Ivan na Pučini. The ship is a protected site so diving is only permitted through registered diving centres. It is incredibly well preserved, still displaying its belle époque beauty. And speaking of boats, visit the misleadingly-named Eko muzej Batana at Rovinj, which has nothing to do with organic vegetables but is all about a traditional type of boat, the batana Abbys of Pazin Pazin, tel. (+385-52) 62 50 40, www. pazinska-jama.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 1530kn.

The Batana Ecomuseum Obala P. Budicina 2, Rovinj, batana@rv-batana.t-com.hr, www.batana.org. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Tickets 5-10kn.

The Church of St Mary on Škriljinah Beram, tel.

Mrs Šestan, (+385-52) 62 29 03. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Ulika Gallery Rovinjska 1, Bale, tel. Bale Tourist Office (+385-52) 82 42 70. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Kvarner If you‘re in Kvarner, don‘t miss the old smithy at Dražice (just inland from Rijeka) where you can see how blacksmiths ply their trade. Close by is Gašparov mlin, a well-preserved watermill, one of several at Grobnik. For a tour, contact the Jelenje Tourist Association. For a great hike, head for Mali

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CAMPING IN CROATIA Lošinj island and climb the peak of Osoršćica (588m). You‘ll be rewarded by a 360-degree view of Pag and Silba islands, the Istrian peninsula, the mountains of Gorski kotar and the Velebit range. Trails start at Nerezine or Osor (just across the causeway on Cres island). Be sure to take plenty of water and in hot weather start early in the morning. There‘s a mountain lodge open during the summer every day except Mondays.

On a cultural note, in Mali Lošinj town, in the museum in the Fritzy palace you can see the Mihičić Collection of contemporary Croatian painting, sculpture and medallions, and the Piperata Collection - 27 works by Italian masters of the 17th and 18th century. Take a step back in time in Rab town on 25-27 July when the Knight‘s Tournament and the Rapska fjera take place. This is the town‘s annual fiesta held in honour of its patron Saint Christopher and King Ljudevit the Great which began 1346.

Jelenje Tourist Association, tel. (+385-51) 29 71 52, info@tz-jelenje.hr, www.tz-jelenje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. St Gaudent Hiking Lodge Osoršćica Mountain, tel. (+385-) 098 40 34 69. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. The Lošinj Museum V.Gortana 35, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 38 92, www.muzej.losinj.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 5 - 10kn

Northern and central Dalmatia If Dalmatia is your destination, we suggest the following. If you‘re travelling from the Zagreb direction, turn off the motorway at Gospić to visit the Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre.

Tesla, a massive genius and charming eccentric, was born right here. Ease away your aches and pains at Zablaće, just 9km from the Solaris camp near Šibenik. The medicinal mud here has been proven to be effective in relieving rheumatism.

Or, for a little more action, sign up for the military-style adventures on the islet of Mrčara, close to Lastovo island. Here they offer team building, fitness boot camps and military-themed games. Not so far away on Vis island, be sure to visit the pleasing park in Vis town. Keen botanists might spot an unusual Mazari palm, not often spotted outside Asia and the Middle East. Likewise, on Hvar island nature lovers will have ample chances to see agaves in flower. Agaves flower only after the plant has been growing for 100 years, and after flowering has finished the plant dies. That makes the flower worth seeing in our book. Agaves are among the iconic images of the beautiful green coast of Dalmatia.

Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre Smiljan, tel. (+385-53) 74 65 30, www.mcnikolatesla.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 50kn.

Small and family-run campsites Camping these days need not be a spartan, style-free experience. The following campsites offer something special, be it a warm family welcome, concern for good management or a refreshing dose of good design. Kamp Jasenovo (Šibenik), Kamp Maslinik (Punat, Krk island), Kamp Adriatic (Orebić), Kamp Village Zrmanja (Draga, near Obrovac), Kamp Vira (Hvar) - voted best mid-sized campsite in 2012.

Eco-friendly campsites In recent years a growing number of campsites in Croatia have worked hard to achieve certification for environmental standards. Certified camps have clean beaches and water, conserve energy and other resources, prevent pollution and provide recycling facilities. Among the best eco-friendly camps in Croatia are Kamp Krk on Krk island and Kamp Stobreč in Split. Kamp Stobreč in 2009 won a Federcampeggia award for hospitality and environmentally-friendly facilities.

Desert island camping If you prefer to get away from everything, and everybody, while you‘re on holiday head for a secluded campsite where you can enjoy Robinson Crusoe style solitude. Try these ones: Kamp Paradiso (Drage, near Šibenik), Kamp Lupis (Pelješac), Kamp Ujča (Senj), Kamp Kate (Mlini), Kamp Aloa (Brač), or Kamp Sloga (Prvić Luka).

Mobile Homes Love the idea of camping but not so keen to give up your creature comforts? Mobile homes and bungalows may be just what you need. A fair few campsites now offer mobile homes or prefab bungalows for rent, which can be surprisingly stylish (not to mention comfortable). This gives you reasonably-priced accommodation in peaceful surroundings with the luxury of your own bathroom. Try Autokamp Slamni on Krk island or Kamp Straško on Pag island.

Southern Dalmatia Apart from the sights on our Dubrovnik-Neretva County pages (pp. 69), we recommend a visit to the Narona Archaeological Museum near Metković, where you can learn about the ruins of a Roman temple found here. At Močići you can see an ancient stone carving of the god Mitrej. And towards the very southern tip of Croatia, in the village of Dunave, where the borders of Croatia, Hercegovina and Montenegro meet, you can climb to the Sokol Tower. From here, as you take in the view of the entire Konavle region, you can get a sense of the mighty fortifications that once stood guard over the Republic of Ragusa.

Narona Archaeological Museum Vid, tel. (+385-20) 69 15 96, www.a-m-narona.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

Sokol Tower Dunave, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

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WHERE TO STAY

Cream of the crop Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, fax (+385-20) 44 02 00, info@ importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com.

Experience Dubrovnik‘s first resort. Choose from four hotels, Neptun (4 stars), Ariston (5 stars), Royal Princess (5 stars) or Royal Palm (5 stars) that are nestled along the sea. Wellness facilities, sports and recreation, private car park, personalised services and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a noteworthy selection of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as state of the art facilities for corporate functions. Q290 rooms (212 doubles €50 - 250, 78 apartments €70 - 400).

PTHAUIFLGBKDCW Kazbek H-2, Lapadska obala 25, tel. (+385-20) 36 29 00, fax (+385-20) 36 29 98, info@kazbek.hr, www. kazbekdubrovnik.com. This newly-opened hotel was built in 1573 by the noble family Zamanja as their summer castle. It was renovated in 2008 and still maintains its original beauty.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The hotel has 12 double rooms and one suite. All rooms are of the highest quality with air-con, SAT & PAY TV, wireless internet and other features; perfect for guests seeking privacy and culture combined with modern facilities. 20 min from Old City! Q13 rooms (12 doubles €288 - 393, 1 suite €390 - 519).

PHA6LGKDCW hhhhh Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-20) 20 00 00, fax (+385-20) 20 00 20, libertas@rixos.com, www.rixos.com. This grandiose cliff-side hotel, once a Dubrovnik trademark, was totally ruined during the 1991-95 war and stood derelict for ages before finally receiving the full makeover the place deserved.

The wellness centre covers pretty much everything from a Turkish bath to chocolate massage and a Jacuzzi that can be filled with milk - if you‘ve always dreamed of acting out your Anthony-and-Cleopatra fantasies then you‘ll never have a better chance. The hotel‘s impressively large congress halls are situated right next door to the 24hr casino - is this a metaphor for the close relationship between corporate culture and the one-armed bandit? Q254 rooms (237 singles €105 - 255, 237 doubles €140 - 300, 16 suites €400 - 800, 1 Presidential Suite €500 - 2000).

PZOTHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhhh The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 62 22, fax (+385-20) 32 62 23, reception@ thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic.The staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 single €190 - 230, 16 doubles €220 - 310, 1 suite €625 - 780, 1 Junior Suite €450 - 560).

PZTJAR6GBKW hhhhh

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WHERETO TOSTAY STAY WHERE Upmarket Boutique Hotel Villa Wolff G-2, Nika i Meda Pucića 1,

tel. (+385-20) 43 87 10, fax (+385-20) 35 64 32, info@ villa-wolff.hr, www.villa-wolff.hr. Zeus, Neptune, Aphrodite, Parnassos, Kosmos, Olympos…names of Ancient Greece, but also the names of the six suites available to the lucky guests who stay here. As boutique hotels go this might well be a cut above the rest. Not one bit cluttered with any of the paraphernalia you might expect in such a place. A private terrace is available for guests who seek the sun, but not the crowds, and it does seem like something out of the Grecian legends. Q6 rooms (3 doubles €128 - 164, 2 suites €178 214, 1 Junior Suite €152 - 194). PAGBKW hhhh Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 80, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral. com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and outdoor pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish conference facilities making this a viable business option. Q51 rooms (45 doubles €84 - 112, 6 triples €67 - 89). Prices are per person per night. PTHAIFLEGBKDCwW hhhh Valamar Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 142, tel. (+385-20) 44 11 00, fax (+385-20) 43 56 00, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. A shining white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price for suite is available upon request. Q180 rooms (180 doubles €149 - 269).

PTHARFLGBKDCwW hhhh Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 34, tel. (+385-20) 44 91 00, fax (+385-20) 44 96 00, reser vations@valamar.com, w w w.valamar.com.

Meeting every expectation this hotel oozes spacious rooms and suites, an indoor/outdoor pool, wellness treatments, restaurants, cocktail bar and more. Buffet breakfast is huge!

State of the art architecture meets the natural Mediterranean surroundings. Walking distance to beaches and a bus ride to the old city, perfect for peace of mind. Q385 rooms (385 doubles €149 - 269). PHAFLGKDCwW hhhh

Mid-range Aquarius G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 4a, tel. (+385-20) 45

61 11, fax (+385-20) 45 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius. net, www.hotel-aquarius.net. Recently given a makeover, this three star hotel includes four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the necessities. It is only 350m from the beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Q Open from April.24 rooms (8 singles €86, 8 doubles €116, 4 triples €174, 4 suites €140).

PALBKW hhh Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. (+385-20) 44 61 00, fax (+385-20) 43 55 78, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is only a pebble‘s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big‘uns and little‘uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy‘s pool with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles €89 - 169). PTHARLEGBKCW hhh

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WHERE TO STAY

Ivana Stanešić

Berkeley J-2, Andrije Hebranga 116a, tel. (+385-20)

49 41 60, fax (+385-20) 49 41 70, reservations@ berkeleyhotel.hr, www.berkeleyhotel.hr. A small hotel with super comfy rooms and we suggest you request the wonderful sea view rooms. Fully furnished, modern in style, free internet, breakfast includes a cold buffet not to mention excellent lattes to get your day going. The hotel is located close to Gruž port so you can catch ferries out to

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

the islands; it‘s a 10 minute bus ride from the Old City. Q24 rooms (20 doubles €60 - 120, 4 apartments €100 - 160).

PALGCW hhh Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 00, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_komodor@ hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A slightly older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool area, and there‘s great outdoor seating for mealtimes. A wide range of free time activities laid on with a smile, and facilities for small meetings. Q63 rooms (8 singles €72 98, 51 doubles €58 - 84, 4 triples €46 - 67). Prices are per person per night. PTHA6LEBKCW hhh Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. (+38520) 41 05 00, fax (+385-20) 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka. hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. This functional-looking four-storey pile right opposite the ferry port feels much better inside than it looks on the outside, with neat en-suite rooms decorated in blood-orange hues. Those facing the port offer an absolutely fascinating panorama of Gruz harbour, and if you like downtown hotels with a sense of urban bustle then Petka is no mean choice. The hotel‘s Taverna Nostromo offers a solid range of local food. Laptop users rejoice: wifi coverage extends throughout the building. Q104 rooms (8 singles €84 - 100, 96 doubles €110 - 140). PHARILGBKW hhh Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. (+385-20) 44 51 00, fax (+385-20) 44 56 02, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208 doubles €89 - 169). PTHALGBKCW hhh

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WHERE TO STAY

Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18, tel. (+385-20) 44 71 00, fax (+385-20) 44 76 03, reservations@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. 338 rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking, washing facilities and more.

22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Q338 rooms (338 doubles €99 - 189).

PTALGBKCW hhh Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 55, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The high spot of the Vis is the rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water‘s edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather friendly. Prices are per person per night. Q151 rooms (9 singles €72 - 98, 136 doubles €52 - 82, 6 triples €41 - 65).

PTHALEGBKW hhh

Hostel Fresh Sheets B-4, Svetog Šimuna 15, tel. (+385-) 091 799 20 86, beds@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com.

One of Dubrovnik‘s best choices for budget accommodation in the Old Town. Funky, characterful dorms, free breakfast and a guesthouse atmosphere make this place a true jewel.

There‘s a lively but not over-raucous bar and lounge, evening film screenings, a backpackers‘ book exchange, and a list of suggested activities that includes the “walking Maxie the dog up Mount Srđ”. Hostel also offers private rooms. Q 20 dorm beds, 20 - 30€ per person. AGW

Budget Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 43 35 20, fax (+385-20) 43 73 33, sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this a good option for sporty types.

Decent, clean and friendly accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula. Q108 rooms (9 singles €46 - 76, 82 doubles €38 - 64, 17 triples €30 - 51). Prices are per person per night. PA6FLEGBK hh

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Vila Micika G/H-2, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 32, fax (+385-20) 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr. Whether you‘re travelling solo or in a large group, Vila Micika in Lapad can cater from two to twenty.

It has both rooms and dorms that are clean and tidy. Rooms are equipped with air-con, TV, showers and toilets. Travellers have free internet access and it‘s a measly 200m walk to the beach. Bars, restaurants and a shopping center are all nearby.

This is budget accommodation at its best! Q 20 dorm beds, 23 - 29€ per person. PA6LGW

Islands Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 72 64 80, fax (+385-20) 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula.hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has a great terrace and an old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q20 rooms (13 doubles €50 - 80, 7 triples €50 - 80). PABK hhh

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

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Out of town Indijan Škvar 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 45 55,

fax (+385-20) 71 45 67, indijan@indijan.hr, www. hotelindijan.hr. This family hotel is perfectly positioned with beachfront views and picturesque mountains in its surroundings. Furbished rooms have all the amenities a 4 star hotel could ever offer. Friendly staff organise island tour packages to assist visitors. A family restaurant, terrace, swimming pool and spa are just some of its other features. Q19 rooms (3 singles €79 - 109, 14 doubles €119 - 209, 2 apartments €159 - 249). PAFLG KDCW hhhh Radissonblu Resort & Spa Na moru 1, Orašac, tel. (+385-20) 36 15 00, fax (+385-20) 36 15 01, inf o.dubr ovnik@radissonblu.com, w w w. dubrovniksungardens.com. Sink into the holiday of a lifetime with this Five Star beachfront resort just 20 minutes from the Old City. Choose from 201 sea view rooms or 207 deluxe apartments with state of the art facilities. Two restaurants offer both local and international mouthwatering cuisines; the Maraska Lounge Bar oozes subtlety and the luxury wellness centre includes out of this world thermal facilities. Q408 rooms (178 doubles €120 - 171, 207 suites €110 - 280, 2 Executive Suites €1500, 20 Junior Suites €176 - 248, 1 Presidential Suite €3000). PZTHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh

Phil Newman Beyond the Wall

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LOCAL FLAVOURS Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city‘s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It‘s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

Kontonjata is a delicacy from the Dubrovnik area that is made of quince. The photo shows Quince Candy as made by members of the Deša Association.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it‘s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full

Slow food Dubrovnik At Terra Madre 2012, Slow Food Dubrovnik successfully presented the products by its members from the Dubrovnik-Neretva County at tastings: Pelješac wine (plavac mali Križ by the Pelješac wine maker Denis Bogoević), and Korčula‘s olive oil (oil Torkul by the olive maker Fanita Žuvela).

Whilst Dubrovnik‘s marmalade made of bitter oranges was chosen for Terra Madre‘s 2012 documentary on Terra Madre‘s network of producers. Congratulations! of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you‘d like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Let‘s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone‘s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You‘ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you‘ve the perfect lunch.

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada.

There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It‘s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

Drying Figs by Dubravka Žaja

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Kamenice or oysters from the Mali Ston Bay (captured on camera and published in the Dubrovački komin cookbook by Jadranka Ničetić) are unique to the whole of Europe. Due to their quality and uniqueness, these oysters were awarded with a Golden Medal for Quality in 1936, in London and they have maintained their quality to this day. Today, they are harvested in the Mali Ston Bay and Morocco only and are best with a few drops of lemon juice.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you‘re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers.

Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It‘s the perfect end to a watery day‘s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you‘ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it‘s easy. The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they‘re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for

The Food Film Festival 04.09 Wednesday - 08.09 Sunday

Kinookus

Ston, kinookus@gmail.com, www.kinookus.com. hr. The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to healthy food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, biodiversity, ecology, nutrition and more. As chefs can serve up mouth watering dishes, this festival serves up a smorgasbord of film and motion picture with this year’s theme being ‘Food Sovereignty’.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija).

It might be white but it‘s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you‘ll see rožata on many a menu: it‘s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there‘s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes you might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in Dubrovnik.

Orancini Peel an orange, preferably unwaxed, organically grown (you don‘t want pesticides on the skin). Cut the peel into strips about 3-5cm long and 0.5cm wide. Pop the peel into a dish and cover with water. Leave to stand for two days. Put the strips and water in a pan, bring to the boil then drain off the water. Add sugar in an amount equal to the weight of the orange strips. Stir in the pan with just a drop of water until the water evaporates. Again, leave to drain, then roll the strips in sugar. Leave to dry.

Bruštulane mjendule Sugared almonds to you and me. Weigh out some almonds, pop them in a pan with an equal amount of sugar. For every 50g of almonds add a dessert spoon of water. Warm the pan on a medium heat, constantly stirring until all the sugar melts, then solidifies and sticks to the almonds. Shake onto a plate and leave to cool before attacking.

Did you know... ... that Dubrovnik‘s Ombla River which is 30 meters long is one of the shortest rivers in the world.

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RESTAURANTS Croatian

Symbol key

Babilon Bulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89

P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

12 82, villababilon@net.hr. When surrounded by the Medi terranean, then eat Medi terranean. This casual restaurant offers an array of fish and meat dishes of the local order and prepped accordingly! With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay and only 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch and dinner. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (55 - 140kn).

PALGBW Bistro Glorijet H-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80, glorijet@ gmail.com. Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you‘ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PAGW Dubravka A-2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, nautika@du.t-com.hr, www.dubravka1836.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Brsalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). PAUGBW Komin G-2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, info@restaurant-komin.com, www.restaurant-komin. com. The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes - try meat or fish “ispod peke”. A good choice in the Babin kuk area. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (75 - 140kn). PALGBW

W Wifi

Kopun C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+38520) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 17 51, 099 201 51 52, info@restaurantkopun.com, www.restaurantkopun.com.

Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.

(80 - 220kn). PJGBW Lady Pi Pi C-1, Peline bb. Wine and dine whilst overlooking the grand walls of Dubrovnik and sea. Large platters for fish and meat devotees are jammed with goodies and the food is cooked in front of you on an outdoor terrace with an open fire. The cuisine is freshly prepped and prices are fair. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. (65 150kn). JAB Mimoza J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo. hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There‘s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes.

Delivery is available. QOpen 07ww:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn).

PTAEGB Orhan K-3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83/ (+385-) 091 725 51 09, info@restaurant-orhan.com, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it‘s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan‘s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30.

(50 - 200kn). PJAGBW Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38 (Hotel Petka), tel. (+385-20) 41 05 24/(+385-20) 41 05 25, info@petka.hr, www.hotelpetka.hr. The food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik‘s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 120kn). PAGBW Teatar C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77. Should you be in luck, you may find yourself seated in a classic terrace; otherwise this sidewalk restaurant is noted for its intimate setting. The menu oozes with seafood, steaks and pasta, but the grilled fish dishes prepared in nonchalant Dalmatian style are a must. Staff that knows more than just the local lingo will greet and treat you exceptionally well.

QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 150kn). AB

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Zoe F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 04 84, www.importanneresort.com. Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace. As well as grilled fish pureand-simple there‘s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs‘ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PALGBW

Breakfast Bistro Dubrava C-2, Placa 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 29. Offers classics like ham and eggs in great surroundings.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (34 - 56kn). PAGBXW Komarda K,L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93/(+385-) 098 42 82 39, restorankomarda@gmail. com, www.komarda.hr. Get the day off to a good start with a hearty breakfast: here you can feast on everything from toast and croissants through rožata (the local crème caramel), to a variety of scrambled egg dishes, Dalmatian, continental and children‘s breakfasts - all at reasonable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (12 - 50kn). ABW Orlando C,D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 73, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.

QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. JABW Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

International 360° by Jeffrey Vella E-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel.

(+385-20) 32 22 22, inf o@360dubr ovnik.com, www.360dubrovnik.com. If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!‘ then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. Jeffery Vella is already a name well known in the world of gastronomy and does not disappoint in Dubrovnik. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). PAGBW Cantina Mexicana Chihuahua E-1, Hvarska 6, tel. (+385-20) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. This rather pleasant Mexican sits just uphill from the Ploče gate, and serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs and wings, steaks and pasta. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, July - September 30 Open 13:00 -24:00. (60 - 100kn).

PVNBS Domino Steak House B-3, Od Domina 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, domino@du.t-com.hr, w w w. steakhousedomino.com. A serious convention centre for carnivores, with steaks done in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

(80 - 140kn). PJAGBW

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RESTAURANTS Gusta me E-1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, gustame.dubrovnik@gmail.com. This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors.

The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for anyone looking for something a little bit different. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PAGBW Lucin kantun B-2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. “Lucy‘s Corner” is a cosy little place just off Stradun, all in sunshine yellow and with wooden furnishings, and a rustic open kitchen where you can watch the chef at work.

He cooks up tapas and Mediterranean dishes, plus there‘s a nice selection of desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (40 150kn). PJAB Magellan I-3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94, uo.madison@du.t-com.hr. The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides. The second is the magentacoloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class. QOpen 10:00 23:30. (52 - 140kn). PAUILEGBXSW Onofrio B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 76/(+385-) 099 266 63 37, reservation@onofrio. hr, www.onofrio.hr. This delightful restaurant, which only opened last July, looks to bring something different to the Dubrovnik dining experience. As you enter the premises it appears at first as if it is in fact a cigar and wine store. Well, yes, it is a cigar and wine store, featuring many Croatian wines

and a variety of Cuban cigars, but on the very next floor we quickly find ourselves in a Champagne Bar. This floor has any number of whiskies and liqueurs, and is open until 02:00 during the summer months. There is an actual restaurant squirreled away in here, on the second floor, and there are plans to create a walk-in humidor for the more insouciant cigar lover. They have a small, but rotating, menu which ensures more detail goes into whatever dish you order. The venue also doubles as an art gallery for local painters. Old City charm blended nicely with a modern approach. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (120 - 250kn). PAGBXW

Cuisine with the view! ...Treat yourself with the delicacies of Dalmatian cuisine.

Restaurant Levanat Šetalište Nika i Meda Pucića 15, Dubrovnik Tel: 020/435 352

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Oyster & Sushi bar Bota D-4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel.

(+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it‘s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (24 - 135kn). PJAGBXW Porat K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, sales.dubrovnik@ hilton.com, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com. Decked out in minimalist style, this restaurant is on the floor beneath the lobby of the plush Hilton Imperial (there are also tables in the light, bright conservatory or the large summer terrace).

Fabulous, Mediterranean and international cuisine - look out for the head chef‘s signature dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

(100 - 250kn). PJALGBXW Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 099 323 22 12, kuca.edo@du.t-com. hr. You guessed it, the Old Town‘s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including ćevapi shish kebab. Try one of the pite pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (40 - 115kn).

TA6GBSW

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Taverna Otto I-2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, info@tavernaotto.com, www.tavernaotto.com.

This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It‘s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the onion soup, pepper and tuna steaks and chocolate soufflé. But whatever you choose, you can‘t go wrong. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00.

(75 - 200kn). AGBXW

Konoba Blidinje H-2, Lapadska obala 21, tel. (+385-20) 35 87 94. You feel that ‘Dalmatian‘ sparkle here with its old stony walls embellished by ancient artefacts. The restaurant is casual and snug, whilst the terrace offers picturesque views of the Gruž harbour, bay and surrounding hills. Situated in the heart of the Lapad peninsula, the meat and seafood dishes are local delights, and here they are baked under a metal bell, covered with hot ash which produces a delectable roast.

Reasonably priced and nicely spiced! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

(40 - 95kn). PAGBXW Jezuite C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385) 098 74 00 73, konobajezuite@gmail.com, http:// dubrovnikrestaurant.webs.com. Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church. Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). JAB Linđo F-2, Iva Dulčića bb (Mali Stradun), tel. (+385-20) 41 34 54, lindjokonoba@gmail.com. Family restaurant with celebrated traditional home goodies on the menu, hence fresh salads, seafood and a fair range of meats, especially the dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANTS age old ritual of roast under the iron pot. Simple and subtle, head towards the President Hotel Resort and it is part of the accompanying retail complex. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

(45 - 150kn). PAGBXW Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 47 50, www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don‘t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 11:00 - 01:00. (61 - 80kn). PAGBXW Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 09 49.

Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary - real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). AGBX Pupo C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik.com.

Compact and bijou, this konoba offers a limited menu of wellprepared home style fish dishes and steaks, fresh and good value for money. Apart from the Old Town location, the guitar in the corner helps add to the cosy, jolly atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180kn). JAGBXW Rozario D-2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385) 099 315 65 50, konoba.rozario@gmail.com, www. konoba-rozario.hr. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that‘s why you‘ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 12:00 23:00. (70 - 125kn). PAGBXW

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Light bites Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices.

Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.

QOpen 08:30 - 01:00. (12 - 28kn). PJNG Rustico I-3, Vukovarska bb, Lapad bus stop, tel. (+38520) 780 78 78. By the bus station for local lines, nestled in greenery just beyond the petrol station, this little kiosk offers freshly prepared warm and cold sandwiches. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (10 - 33kn).

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Lazareti

Tutto Bene C-3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53,

www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com. A refreshing discovery for those looking for something quick and tasty to munch: this modern little fast food joint has a super selection of sandwiches, tacos, burgers and pizzas as well as French fries and dips - yummy! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (15 - 45kn).

JAW

Mediterranean Amfora H-1, Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19. While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel - very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high. You will be

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well fed here, have no doubt. If you‘re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 130kn). PAGBXW Casa G-2, Nika i Meda Pucića 1, tel. (+385-) 091 438 71 05, info@villa-wolff.hr, www.villa-wolff.hr. The restaurant, which is downstairs from Villa Wolf, is relatively cheap given the quality of hotel attached, and is very straightforward and entirely Mediterranean in content. It is situated at the beginning of a must-walk path, trailing the coastline around the south-west of the city. The view from the restaurant‘s terrace is serene, even allowing for a few jet-skis, and while everything is but a short walk away the area is quite peaceful and relaxed. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).

PALGBXW

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Defne C-3, Od Puča 1 tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, fandb@thepucicpalace.com, www.thepucicpalace. com. Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any anniversary dinner, or valentine‘s rendezvous. The menu, while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and features cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, the latter three, of course, having had some historical influence within the region in centuries past. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00.

(180 - 270kn). JABW Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, marketing@ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ew-dubrovnik. com. In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A classy place for a bite.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PJAGBW

Klarisa B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, mladen@klarisa.hr, www.klarisa-dubrovnik. com. Just two years operating in Dubrovnik you could be forgiven for thinking that they‘d always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you‘ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they can never know what the boats will bring in - that‘s how fresh their fish is. They have three distinct dining areas, so private groups might be better accommodated, which includes a courtyard should the terraced area out front be too crowded for the weary tourist.

If you‘re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 220kn).

PTJA6UIEGBXSW Komarda L-2, Frana Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, restorankomarda@gmail.com, www.komarda.hr. A wonderful location by the water‘s edge right by the old part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediterranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 150kn). ABW Nautika A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(257 - 398kn). PJAGBW Oliva Gourmet C-3, Cvjete Zuzorić 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 76, info@olivadubrovnik.com, www.olivadubrovnik. com. This little restaurant is tucked away in one of the narrow

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RESTAURANTS streets of the Old town. The attractive interior is decorated with a vintage touch in shades of violet. Here they serve Mediterranean food with a strong Italian accent!QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 135kn). JB Panorama K,L-1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, nautika@du.t-com. hr. Whichever way you climb Mount Srđ, on foot or by cable car, we think you deserve a little treat. This restaurant, right by the top cable car station, has great big windows offering a spectacular view over Dubrovnik and its coastline. The food is excellent. Bring your sunglasses! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

September Open 09:00 - 22:00. October Open 09:00 - 20:00.

(70 - 250kn). PAGBXW Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, restaurantpoklisar@gmail.com, www.poklisar.com. The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day‘s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (60 - 170kn). PJAEGBW Sesame J-3, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. (+385-20) 41 29 10, misko.sesame@gmail.com, www.sesame.hr. An Aladdin‘s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (90 - 150kn).

PAGBW Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Dubrovnik Palace Hotel), tel. (+385-20) 43 03 57/(+385-20) 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant restaurant with sea views and stylish poolside seating. The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian specialities with a contemporary twist, and light

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Mediterranean tastebud-tinglers. Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 250kn). ALEGBXW Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. (+385-) 098 944 93 17/ (+385-) 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, www.wandarestaurant.com. You‘ll find yourself ‘wondering‘ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 290kn). PGB

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RESTAURANTS Out of town

Vegetarian corner

Adio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel.

Nishta C-2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, info@nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You‘ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, soups and spring-rolls. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. ABSW

(+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 24 38 45. Whether it‘s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who‘s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It‘s the one with the queue waiting for a table! QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (50 - 170kn). PJAGBXW Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, ankora@du.t-com.hr. The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it‘s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.

QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). ABW Bota Šare Marina Držića 1, Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/(+385-) 091 175 44 79, botamaliston@gmail. com, www.bota-sare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you‘re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).

PALGBW Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV‘s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It‘s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

(80 - 125kn). PTA6LGBXW

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Konavoski dvori Ljuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 098 35 78 62, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume.

You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 110kn). ALGBXW Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 96 07, smilja.siljug@hotmail.com. Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (45 - 100kn). ALGBX Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@ du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into

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Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you‘ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn).

ALGB Leut Trumbićev put 17, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, info@restaurant-leut.com, www.restaurant-leut.com. One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don‘t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 250kn). PAGBXW Obala Obala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, obala@du.t-com. hr. There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud‘s waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). PAGBXW

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-

20) 89 12 67, restoran@gverovic-orsan.hr, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(80 - 160kn). ALGBXW Triton Zaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, info@triton.hr, www.triton. hr. A frequent stop on yachting trips: there‘s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it‘s all the stuff of dreams! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn). AGBXW Vila Koruna Mali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/ (+385-) 098 34 42 33, vila-koruna@du.t-com.hr, www. vila-koruna.hr. The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.

QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (40 - 440kn). PJHALBKW Villa Neretva Splitska 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, info@hotelvilla-neretva.com, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn‘t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada - beef in sauce with prunes and gnocci. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PTAILEGBXS

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RESTAURANTS Villa Ruža Donje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+38520) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, info@villa-ruza. com, www.villa-ruza.com. The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of transport include regular ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private transfer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120 - 190kn).

ABXW Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com. hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don‘t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (70 140kn). AGBXW

Pizza Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20)

32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy!

QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (25 - 80kn). PNGBXSW Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30,

meaculpa@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for ćevapčići (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PJAGBSW Oliva D-3, Lučarica 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 94, info@ olivadubrovnik.com, www.pizza-oliva.com. In an alleyway behind the Stradun, Oliva seems slightly more authentic than some of the other pizzerias in town, as if a bit more thought has gone into the quality of the ingredients that go on top of the pie. Pizzas come in sizes of either small (i.e. just about sufficient for one person) or large - the larger ones being big enough to feed approximately one and a half hungry adults, presuming you can find half an adult to share with. Salads, lasagnas and takeaway service also available. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 90kn). PAGBXW

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Tabasco E-1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95,

pizzeriatabasco@hotmail.com. The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It‘s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik.

The beer is also some of the cheapest in price. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (23 - 85kn). AGBXW

Seafood Kamenice C-3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20)

32 36 82. Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices.

It‘s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 110kn). ABS Levanat F-2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 55 32. This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 160kn). PAGBXW Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika‘s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn).

PAGBXW YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, ankora.doo@du.t-com.hr. The restaurant of Dubrovnik‘s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PAGBXW

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CAFÉS In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a bijela kava (white coffee).

Belfast Celtic Bar G-2, Marka Marulića 21, tel. (+38520) 43 58 46, www.celticbars.com. ‘The Belfast‘ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small Žuja during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00.

Biker‘s Cafe L-2, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00.

PNBXW Fashion Café H-2, Kralja Tomislava 7. In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGB Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, stijepo. sanje@du.t-com.hr. This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn‘t be better. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00. PAGBW Galerie C-2, Kunićeva 5. One of a plethora of little cafes stroke drinking holes in the side streets leading north from Stradun. This one is nice enough inside, has a couple of shady tables out, and plays the pop, rock and dance beloved of its youthful clientele. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.

PAGBW Glam Café C-2, Palmotićeva 5, glamcf44@gmail.com.

If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails. QOpen 08:30 02:00. JGBXW GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 63, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location, is that it‘s been given delightful modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PJAGB Laura L-2, Frana Supila 1, tel. (+385-) 099 506 22 60.

Easily overlooked, but shouldn‘t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 02:00. PNBXW Libertina (Lući) D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Cosy, snug, intimate - all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik‘s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don‘t be surprised if you find you‘re sitting in someone‘s seat though. A thoroughly enjoyable experience. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.

Špilja Bar More (Cave Bar More) F-2, Kardinala

Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, sales@hotel-more.hr, www.hotel-more.hr. This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar.

No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

Small plates and sweet treats GradsKavana D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20)

32 11 63, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa. hr. The excellent city coffee house, for many years a cult meeting place, has a superb collection of cakes.

We particularly like the macaroni cake with walnuts and the almond cake (kolač od mandule), and apple pita is excellent too. Melt in the mouth! QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.

PJAB Pupica C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, viktor@pupodubrovnik.com, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it‘s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you‘ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBW

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NIGHTLIFE Jazz Nights 13.07 Saturday

Bonačić Quartet L-2, Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8.

04.08 Sunday

Ines Tričković Sextet L-2, Lazareti Club, Frana Supila 8.

Culture Club at the magnificent Revelin Fortress hosts thousands of worldly travellers that boogie and party till the early morning hours. DU-EL-Fest (14-17.08.) brings a star studded line-up of DJs that ought to blow your summer away including Dimitry Vegas, Like Mike and Fedde LeGrand...

Bars Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 63/

(+385-) 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www. mea-culpa.hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dance floor - in any order or combination. Spectacular. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00.

PAGBXW Art K-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, artcafedbk@gmail. com. Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you‘ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from old-fashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen‘s tower, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 53/(+385-) 098 36 19 34, www.cafebuza.com. What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There‘s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. B Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3. On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour‘s. The inside isn‘t bad either (not that you‘ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced.

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PNBXW

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NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE Clubs Culture Club Revelin D-2, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort

Revelin Club Archives

None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99

09, info@nonenina.com, www.nonenina.com. A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector‘s Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PENB Rock Caffe Exit C-2, Boškovićeva 2. Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PENXW SkyBar C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. (+385-) 091 220 20 94, skybardubrovnik@gmail.com. Expect to find both local beer and Erdinger on tap, a mind-boggling array of spirits, and an attractively-priced list of cocktails. Blending slate grey, soothing whites and mood-enhancing purples, the interior is smart and slinky without being overdone. If the delightfully dotty abstract mosaic on the back wall starts revolving in front of your eyes, though, it‘s probably time you were in bed.

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAEBW

Casinos Golden Sun Casino H/I-3, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel

Rixos Libertas), tel. (+385-20) 63 85 88, marketing@ major.hr, www.goldensuncasino.hr. Feeling lucky? Then visit Golden Sun Casino in Five Star Rixos Libertas Hotel. It offers fun winning opportunities to suit all pockets, from the newest slot machines, roulette, and card tables, to Texas Holdem Poker Tournaments & cash games held every night from 8 ‘til late. Kick up your heels with fresh beverages and lounge bar music. The Casino‘s free shuttle bus will pick you up and take you home in comfort. Everyone‘s a winner at Golden Sun Casino! QOpen 14:00 - 04:00.

Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31/(+385-) 098 946 89 61, cultureclubrevelin@gmail.com, www.clubrevelin. com. Back in the day, the 16th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. A Eastwest beach club L-5, Frana Supila 4, tel. (+38520) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, marketing@ ew-dubrovnik.com, www.ew-dubrovnik.com. The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since East West rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one‘s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.

QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PABW Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel. (+385-20) 31 28 70, clubfuego@gmail.com, www.dubrovniknightclub.com.

A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you‘ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights when you‘re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares?

QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNB

Club Nights 01.06 Saturday

Shapeshifters

E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

14.06 Friday

DJ Antoine

E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

28.06 Friday

Sebastian Ingrosso E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

04.07 Thursday

Freemasons

E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

18.07 Thursday

W&W

E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

25.07 Thursday

DJ Redfoo & The party rock crew of LMFAO E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominika bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

01.08 Thursday

Boy George & Marc Vedo E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominka bb, www. clubrevelin.com..

30.08 Friday

Nikola Fasano & Steve Forest E-1, Revelin Culture Club, Sv.Dominka bb, www. clubrevelin.com.

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Summer 2013

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NIGHTLIFE

Lazareti L-2, Frana Supila bb, info@lazareti.com, www.

lazareti.com. These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/ underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica.

An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. Q Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. July, August, events programme allowing.

Orlando J-3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 74/(+385-) 098 192 77 60, klub_umo@yahoo.com.

A multi-talented organisation organising excellent live bands, DJ appearances, film screenings, workshops, exhibitions and much much more, leaning towards the alternative stream of culture. Check out the club‘s Fecebook page for what‘s on.

QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.

Lounge bars Culto I-4, Iva Vojnovića 39a. Escape the scorching summer

heat and cool off at Culto! What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere.

Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PABX Victoria L-2, Frana Supila 14 (Grand Villa Argentina), tel. (+385-20) 44 05 55, www.victoria-restaurant. com. Oozes class, classical architecture, quality service and contemporary ambience. Above all, the European menu concept changes with the seasons and focuses on local delights, organic products and fresh ingredients. With a majestic view that overlooks the Old City and a wine list that tingles the pallet, a gastronomic experience of elegance and panache waits. Q Open 18:00 - 01:00 and depending on weather conditions. AEK

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Pubs Arch Pub C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 30 69 90,

archpub@gmail.com, www.dubrovnikpub.com. As the name says, it is housed under the arch behind the Cathedral.

One of the rare places playing music other than house and mainstream. This fact and the successful combination of stone and dark wood make you want to stay and just keep ordering those Irish beers they keep. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.

PJENBXW Gaffe Pub C-3, Miha Pracata 4. It walks like an Irish Pub, and it talks like an Irish Pub, but unfortunately, like other hostelries in Dubrovnik‘s Old City, the imported Irish drinks are overpriced when compared to the capital, but are nevertheless cheaper than most other local stockists of the ‘black stuff‘. We won‘t let this spoil our time here, however, and you‘ll be pleased to note that their food is competitively priced and that it hits the spot nicely. It pains us to note that the pub is somewhat misnamed… Gaff, slang for someone‘s home, was the word they meant, so their current name is somewhat of a, well, gaffe. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. JGBXW Katie O‘Connor‘s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 75/(+385-) 091 220 20 94, bradley@ du.t-com.hr, www.katieoconnors.com. The website says that they serve food but it seems that someone is telling digital porkies. Our time here was not a pleasant one, with the staff being incredibly rude, to the point of being directly insulting; quick to pass comment on customers who don‘t speak Croatian. This is very much a shame, because the pub itself is physically quite charming and welcoming. Currently undeserving of the moniker ‘Irish Pub‘ the owners would do well to reflect on their staffing policies. Were such a venue to operate thusly back in Ireland it would be shut within a week.

QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PABX

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In Your Pocket

Summer Su Sum S umm um mer me err 20 e 2 2013 013 13

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WHAT TO SEE

Ivana Stanešić

Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan)

D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 23. The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city‘s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies‘ skirts! As befits the monastery‘s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20kn.

Lokrum Island L-3, tel. (+385-20) 42 72 42, www. lokrum.hr. You don‘t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It‘s one of the best spots for a swim.

The island‘s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there‘s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there‘s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 - Lokrum is now a

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Nature Reserve. Lokrum‘s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views. Q Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 60kn.

Stradun, Placa B/C-2. When talking about finding your way around town, you‘ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won‘t see on any street signs. It‘s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It‘s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel - this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.

The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3, Luža 3. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city‘s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show.

A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church‘s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year‘s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. No admission.

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča), www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Almost

two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik‘s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon‘s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it‘s well worth visiting. It was for some time

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WHATTO TO SEE SEE WHAT used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot.

The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John‘s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces.

From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you‘ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. Q June - July 31 Open 08:00 - 19:30, August - September 31 Open 08:00 - 18:30, October Open 08:00 - 17:30. Admission 30 - 90kn.

were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace‘s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20)

Museums

32 14 10, mala.braca@du.t-com.hr, www.malabraca. hr. The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden with orange trees. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you‘ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it‘s the test of a real man! Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kn.

The Rector‘s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr/en/culturalhistory-museum/. One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations

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Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej) C-4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88.

Although newly opened, the collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac.

The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.

QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13. “Rupe” is

named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city‘s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-4, St. John‘s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr/en/maritime-museum/. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city‘s most important

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WHAT TO SEE

Ivana Stanešić museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales - they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John‘s fortress on the old harbour. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel.

(+385-20) 32 48 56, www.dumus.hr/en/museum-ofcontemporary-history/. The Museum‘s work focuses on gathering documentation on contemporary history since World War Two, including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can see all their exhibitions in the Rector‘s Palace. The museum doesn‘t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.

The Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej)

B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 41, arheoloski.muzej@dumus.hr, www.dumus.hr/en/ archaeological-museum/. The Archaeological museum currently does not have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town, including fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the attractive plaitwork typical of Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula. The museum doesn‘t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions.

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića)

B-3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:30. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5. The Synagogue (1352,

the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 25kn.

Churches Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata)

B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 67. To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone‘s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time. Q Open on request and by prior arrangement. July - August 31 Open 10:00 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa bb. The first church you‘ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour‘s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built around 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake - it is said that even the city‘s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It‘s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals.

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the

Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church - nowadays used as an occasional gallery space.

The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles.

Serbian Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna crkva)

C-3, Od Puča 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 83. Dubrovnik‘s Orthodox church was built from 1865 - 1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 21:00. Church Admission free.

St Ignatius‘ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 00.

Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Mass in English In June, July and August mass is held in English on Sundays at 11:00.

St Katherine‘s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine)

C-3, Strossmayerova 3. The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Art School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine.

St Nicholas‘ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called pleter, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century.

St Sebastian‘s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana)

D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade.

The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3/4, Držićeva poljana, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 59 Treasury/(+385-20) 32 34 96.

The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

St Ignatius‘ Church of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint‘s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption

by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 18:00. Q Open 09:00 -16:00, Sun 11:30 - 16:00. Treasury admission 10 - 15kn.

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WHAT TO SEE

Dubrovnik is a favorite wedding destination and Lokrum is the perfect background for taking memorable photos. If luck is on your side, you may also get a peacock in the photo.

Landmarks

Boninovo cliff It might be considered somewhat morbid

that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular‘ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other. The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre

beauty. It‘s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they‘re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

Dubrovnik Cable Car L-2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, blagajna@excelsa-realestate.com, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Travel in style to the peak of Mount Srđ in the recently opened cable car. The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, September Open 09:00 - 22:00, October 09:00 - 20:00. Adults 50 - 94kn, Children 25 - 40kn, children under 4 free. Đurovića Cave - Skycellar Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi. So your plane lands and minutes later you find yourself in a cave!

Yes, it is true! Just beneath the Dubrovnik Airport, there is a cave that stretches 200 meters in length and is a fast growing attraction. Audio guides in English, Russian and Croatian will take you through this adventure where Mother Nature has for centuries been working her magic. As a memento of your visit, the aptly named Skycellar offers a vast range of authentic wines from this region as well as genuine souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 15 - 40kn.

Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3.

This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić‘s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town‘s fruit market in the mornings.

Onofrio‘s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Love Padlocks Boninovo by Ivana Stanešić

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile

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WHAT TO SEE

Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today‘s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio‘s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.

Orlando‘s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom.

In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility.

The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic.

Today you‘ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city‘s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‚heart‘ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando‘s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric - a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) - you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.

The Aquarium (Akvarij) E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78. Housed in the magnificent St John‘s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 40kn.

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The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara)

D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you‘ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn‘t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci - ‚the green ones‘ - or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower - an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes

Fisherman repairing net, Dubrovnik by Neil Hathaway

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WHAT TO SEE and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower‘s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South

of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it‘s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise‘s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it‘s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra‘s musicians gathered there on a warm evening. he City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2/3. Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice.

During the city‘s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.

The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik‘s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe.

The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists‘ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.

Visia Dubrovnik 5D Multimedia Museum B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (St Clara Convent, Stradun), info@visiadubrovnik.com, www.visiadubrovnik.com. The ancient walls of St. Clara‘s Convent are new home to a state of the art 5D multimedia museum. With the use of virtual reality and hologram projections, visitors are taken through an incredible journey into the history and culture of Dubrovnik and Croatia. Offered in six languages, experience the trials and tribulations of this grand city. Whilst there, see the World Network Concept, a fun way of spreading peace virtual style!

QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Tickets 50 - 75kn. U

Did you know... ... that the Italian designer Ottavio ‘Tai‘ Missoni, famous for his colourful knitwear designs was born in Dubrovnik, in 1921?

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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LEISURE Dubrovnk is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there‘s no shortage of

Adventure Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 70/(+385-) 091 550 83 06, info@ adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com.

QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Adventure Dalmatia Pile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 526 38 13, deni@adventuredalmatia. com, www.adventuredalmatia.com. Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on 091 566 59 42 and 091 526 38 13. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Big Game Fishing, tel. (+385-) 091 419 14 50/ (+385-) 091 419 14 54, www.biggamedubrovnik.com.

This exciting sport uses fast boats on the open sea to catch powerful fish such as bluefin tuna, marlin, or swordfish. If you would like to try your hand, contact the numbers above.

Dubrovnik Advantures, www.dubrovnikadventures. com. Excursions from one day to more of the gorgeous Konavle region! Travel on foot, hire a bike or hmmm gallop a donkey, you choose. Tours include visits to local wine and olive oil producers as well as opting to sight-see the Dubrovnik Walls and kayaking to the island of Lokrum. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris across the

Excursions on the Neretva boats Step back in time as you paddle in traditional Neretva vessels along the Delta of the Neretva River. You will pass through areas where the ancient Greeks, Illyrians and Romans used to sail, not to mention the pirates of this region that were known to attack their enemies from such positions. Dig in to the traditional gastronomic specialties including Neretva brudet, a type of stew made from frog and eels. When back on the mainland, you can visit the Ornithological Collection in Metković and the archeological site of the ancient Narona. For more information, please contact Metković Tourist Board, Ante Stračevića 3, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

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LEISURE

Padi 5 star dive resort Blue Planet Archives differing terrain of the Konavle mainland. Intended for groups of 7 - 14 people, priced 500 - 600 kn per person. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

Prevlaka Nature Park Prevlaka, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 55/(+385-) 098 26 14 66, www.park-prevlaka.hr.

Welcome to the most southern part of Croatia, cushioned between the sea and mountains. This immaculate area is bursting with Mediterranean plants, vines, vineyards and fruit trees and if you take a nature walk the scenery is down-right breathtaking. Bicycles can be rented at affordable prices and then there are the underground passages, tunnels built by the military and kept hidden for 50 years which are becoming popular amongst tourists. A visit to the tunnels is only available in guided tours. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Entry 15kn.

Scuba Diving Abyss - Diving & Water-sport Centre G-2, Iva Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 098 24 43 49/(+385-) 099 256 12 56, diving.hr@gmail. com, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Q Open 09:30 - 18:00 and by appointment.

Blue Planet F-3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, info@blueplanetdiving.com, www.blueplanet-diving.com. For info out of season call 091 899 09 73. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Diving Club Dubrovnik G/H-1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver. hr, www.du-diver.hr. On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.

Q Open by prior arrangement.

Dubrovnik beaches In the city itself, the town beach is Banje, just outside the Ploče gate of the city walls. The expanse of white pebbles has a super view of the Old Town and is suitable for children and non-swimmers. Or you could creep through the Buža hole in the southern city walls and take a dive off the rocks there - the crystalline water is truly tempting.

You could take a taxi boat from the Old Town‘s harbour to Lokrum island (50kn return), where the beaches are immersed in lush greenery, plus there‘s a naturist beach and shallow saltwater lake.

Just west of town is the Danče promontory, a rocky beach a little more exposed to the open sea, offering refreshing waves. Further east is the beach below Hotel Bellevue - a spectacular stretch of pebble and shingle backed by cliffs.

About 15min walk east of town is the Sveti Jakov beach, under the abbey of the same name. The pebble and shingle beach offers great views of the city and of Lokrum. You can get here by taking bus no. 5 to the end of the line. You need

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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LEISURE Ston Wall Marathon 08.09 Sunday

www.ston-wall-marathon.com. Have you ever run a marathon? Possibly! Have you ever run a marathon on the second largest wall in the world? Most likely not! Here is your chance, this marathon encompasses the famous Ston Wall and extends further along the coast. The breathtaking views of the island will have you panting for air aside from the run itself. Registration started April 1. have no fear as to the quality of the water near the Old Town; the water quality is constantly monitored and is excellent. If, however, you would like to get away from the centre, you can head for the Lapad peninsula. The deep Lapad bay is ringed with beaches, all different. Uvala Lapad is sandy, while others are pebbly, rocky or concrete. There are plenty of facilities such as showers, toilets, watersports and refreshments.

On the side of the Babin kuk (“grandmother‘s hip”) peninsula, the Copacabana beach has water slides and other fun stuff.

If you don‘t fancy taking the coast path and finding your own personal piece of heaven, you could always hire a pedalo and take the scenic route…

Another option is to take a ferry and take a day trip to Koločep or Lopud islands, both of which have fine sandy beaches and opportunities to explore. Or, head south of the city to the resorts of Župa Dubrovačka, which have some of the most attractive white pebble beaches in the country (take bus no. 10 or 16).

Tennis Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel. (+385-20) 44 76 27. You should call for an appointment to check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Dubrovnik Tennis Club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55, teniskiklubdubrovnik@ gmail.com. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 80kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you‘ll pay 100kn.

Biking in paradise Franck Therond National Park Mljet

Bike rental Teuta Trumbićev put 3, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 97 86/

(+385-) 091 882 57 97, info@cavtat.biz, www.cavtat. biz. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. 25kn/hour, 100kn/day. A

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GETTING AROUND boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 20 Kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr

Long distance coaches Since there‘s no train station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you‘re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey!

Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www. libertasdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 05:30 - 22:30.

Ferry Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).

You‘ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company‘s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12 Kn from news kiosks (15 Kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Note: Ferry ticket prices are not listed because there was an announcment of possible changes in prices. It is best to check directly at the transport carrier.

G&V Line G-1, Vukovarska 34, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, gv-line@gv-line.hr, www.gv-line.hr. Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour from the G&V Line kiosk at least one hour before departure.

Jadrolinija I-2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands and between Mljet and Pelješac. Q Open 08:00 20:00. When there are lines for Bari Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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GETTINGAROUND AROUND GETTING

Car rental Dollar&Thrifty Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-

20) 77 35 88/(+385-) 098 42 49 03, apt.dubrovnik@ subrosa.hr, www.carrentalsubrosa.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz L-2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/ (+385-) 091 425 00 01, dubrovnik.dt@hertz.hr, www. hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Uni rent Josipa Kosora 6, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/ (+385-) 099 219 55 15, dubrovnik@uni-rent.hr, www. uni-rent.com. Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

Parking Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it‘s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the

Taxi The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 09 70, otherwise you‘ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. No night supplements, 25 Kn base rate, 8 Kn per kilometre, 2 kn per baggage item and 80 Kn per hour for waiting.

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city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town‘s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it.

Parking costs 5 - 30 kn/hour or 85 - 170 kn/day depending on which zone you‘re in, and the season. Text message parking. Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It‘s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you‘re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices.

Airport Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) Čilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets selling at rock bottom prices so be sure to reserve your ticket well in advance - otherwise you‘ll need a whole lot of luck to get your hands on these. International flights are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget airlines such as Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations.

Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200 - 250kn). Check with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car there‘s a long stay car park (the first 15min parking is free of charge, anything over 15min and up to 24hours will cost between 5 - 40kn. Parking beyond 24 hours thereafter is 2kn per hour. In case you do lose your parking ticket, a 300kn payment is required).

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GETTING AROUND

Travel Agencies Elite I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 35 82 00, elite@

elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. A Perla Adriatica L-2, Frana Supila 2, tel. (+385-20) 42 27 66/(+385-) 098 33 45 00, info@perla-adriatica. com, www.perla-adriatica.com. By the Ploče gates, a good place to try if you‘re looking for private accommodation.

Also excursions, rental of bikes, scooters and boats, plus exchange services. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Viator travel H-1, Svetog križa 3, tel. (+385-20)

31 31 40, 31 31 44/(+385-) 091 486 84 33, mail@ dubrovnikviator.com, www.dubrovnikviator.com. Visit their website to explore a world of possibilities, including organization of group travels, events and meetings in Dubrovnik. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun by appointment. A Vivado Šetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 64 71/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com. hr, www.vivado.hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

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SHOPPING Antiques Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20)

32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro.hr. Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Heritage Shop L-2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, aleksandra@terra-marique.hr, www. heritageshop.hr. A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A

Art galleries AR Atelier 2 C-2, Nalješkovićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 21/(+385-) 091 201 19 99, aruskovic@inet.hr, www. antoniaruskovic.com. A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery. Q June, September, October Open 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 09:00 23:00. A Artur B-3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385) 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com. A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Klarisa Gallery C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44, jelenapacesentovic@yahoo.com. Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.

QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, info@romanamilutin.com, www.romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. A Stradun B-2, Placa 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 78, cimic. art.gallery@du.t-com.hr, www.stradun.hr. On Stradun (oddly enough), close to the Pile gate, this gallery is the result of the owner‘s passion for art. Exclusively local and Croatian painters along with exquisite Croatian designer jewellery.

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93, info@talir-dubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr.

Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Workshop Be Craft L-2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, du@becraft.eu, www.becraft.eu.

This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.

QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Souvenirs Baboon I-2, Dr. Vladka Mačeka 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 17 50/(+385-) 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo. com. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts.

Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. W Bačan Handmade Products D-2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 21. Here you can go all out ‘folk‘ with dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Author boats made of stone and Murano glass have been designed and can be taken home as a memory on your visit to Dubrovnik national costumes, blouses and table cloths all decorated with Konavle embroidery on sale. Q Open 09:30 - 15:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:30 - 15:30. JN Duty Free Shop Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.

One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free.

The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won‘t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.

Ivo Biočina - Decorative sculptors workshop D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-) 091 536 40 56. A small sculptors workshop with fascinating statues, figures, holy crosses, bowls, Croatian cross patterns, the Dubrovnik coat of arms and more. See how this exceptional combination of stone from Brač is carved in Dubrovnik motifs. Truly original!

QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Kokula Art & Craft Shop B-2, Đorđićeva 6, tel. (+38520) 32 48 12, kokula@net.hr. Recently opened, this small crafts shop deals exclusively in Croatian-sourced goods. Lace, embroidered items, paintings, carvings, and even cookies and other edible goodies from Dubrovnik, are all available here.

None of the inevitable tack which such tourist hotspots attract can be found here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.

Lega-Lega C-2, Dropčeva 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 44, dubrovnik@lega-lega.com, www.lega-lega.com. The word lega, which is short for a colleague, is slang and especially dear to Osijek locals. At this store you can find notebooks, diaries, T shirts and other products with original designs amidst a sea of offered goods. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. AW Medusa B/C-2, Prijeko 18, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 04/ (+385-) 098 175 17 41, info@medusa.hr, www.medusa. hr. Wide-ranging souvenir shop that stocks more than just the predictable tourist-trap nonsense that nobody actually wants.

Expect a solid choice of authentic Croatian gifts including olive oils, brandies, and sponges from the sponge-fishing island of Krapanj. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Museum shop D-3, Pred dvorom 3 (Rector‘s Palace), tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39. The Rector‘s Palace is where guests can acquire some of the more sophisticated and more exclusive gifts and souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Palma C-3, City Market, Gundulićeva poljana, tel. (+385-) 091 553 96 08/(+385-) 091 514 20 18. Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn.

QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 99/(+385) 098 82 04 16, ronchi.dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www. dubrovnik-online.com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don‘t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods. Q Open 09:30 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 54, www. tildadubrovnik.com. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

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Accessories Art Go‘Den K-3, Marijana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-20) 35 70 70, enter-dubrovnik. doo@du.t-com.hr, www.artgoden.com. A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand. Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar Lacroma Resort and Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A Croata D-3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 63 83 30, www.croata.hr. Ties and other clothing in rich and varied materials come together to make you look the pro. Find the perfect gift while receiving a free history lesson on the invention of the tie. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 15:00. A

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SHOPPING Designer Clothing Maria D-2, Sv. Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 13 30,

info@maria-dubrovnik.hr, www.maria-dubrovnik.hr. If you forgot to pack your fancy designer frocks, Stella McCartney shoes and Miu Miu handbag, then Maria is the place to stock up on replacements. Gorgeous and expensive in equal measure, it‘s the kind of shop that makes you feel glamorous just looking through the window. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 24:00. October Open 10:00 - 20:00. A Max Mara D-3, Gundulićeva poljana 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 16, maxmara.du@masmoda.hr. Sharp lines, muted colours, plush fabrics... Max Mara hits Dubrovnik! Can‘t miss either way. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 22:00. A Modni kantun D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 41. A little store in a street next to the Sponza palace, packed with unusual accessories, clothes and jewellery. Most items are by famous Croatian fashion designers, so it‘s a little pricey but definitely unique and stylish. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A XD Xenia Design G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel), tel. (+385-) 091 442 11 17, info@xenia-design.hr, www.xenia-design.hr. Designer who make custom clothing suited to your size and personality. Also at Radisson Blue Resort and Croatia Hotel in Cavtat.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-

20) 32 20 92, lucija.oresic@du.t-com.hr. A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00. July - September 30 Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+38520) 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr.

A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenir-wrapped delicatessen and porcelain. Q June Open 08:00 - 23:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 24:00.

October Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www. kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. October Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Oleoteka Uje C-2, Placa bb, Stradun, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 32, www.uje.hr. Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles! QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 77. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 23:00. A

Get some local art

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VALENTINO, TOM FORD, PROENZA SCHOULER, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, AZZEDINE ALAร A, MARY KATRANTZOU, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, 5,&. 2:(16 &ะด/,1( 67(//$ 0&&$571(< %85%(55< 3525680 1$7$/,$ %5,//, MARNI, ALEXANDER WANG, OLYMPIA LE TAN, FALIERO SARTI, ACNE, VIONNET, MAISON MICHEL, TOM BINNS, ERICKSON BEAMON, CARMINA CAMPUS, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, NOIS, GIANVITO ROSSI, BURAK UYAN POUR MARIA, LINDA FARROW LUXE, HAGA PARIS Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ 2XWOHW =DJUHE &HQWDU .DSWRO 1RYD 9HV www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr

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SHOPPING Jewellery Clara Stones C-2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+38520) 32 17 06, info@clarastones.com, www. clarastones.com. Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless. The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. A Dubrovnik Treasures B-2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, simonafarac@gmail.com, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. Unique homemade jewelry with the designer always using semiprecious stones, silver, philigrans and pearls. A great choice of necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Worth the visit!

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Križek C-2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.zlatarna-krizek.hr. This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

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DIRECTORY Business Connections American College of Managemet and Technology

J/K-3, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. (+385-20) 43 30 00, american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr.

Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County Chamber I-3, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 99, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Belgium H-2/3, Antuna Barca 10, tel. (+385-20) 43 81 77, sabine@terranautika.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark I-2, Bana J.Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 33 35/(+385-) 098 28 50 88, dkconsulate.du@gmail.com.

QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy I-3, Leichtensteinov put 3 (Rixos Libertas Hotel), tel. (+385-) 098 941 46 54, consolatoitaliano@net.hr.

Q Open by arrangement.

Spain K-2, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-) 091 503 80 57.

Q Open by prior arrangement.

The Netherlands H-2, Od Sv. Mihajla 1, tel. (+385-20) 35 61 41/(+385-) 091 396 63 82, ajerkovic@atlant.hr.

QOpen , Tue, Fri 10:00 - 12:00.

UK I-2, Vukovarska 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 45 97, honcons.dubrovnik@inet.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun.

Kod zvonika C-2, Placa 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 33.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lapad G/H-2, M.Vodopića 30, tel. (+385-20) 43 67 78.

QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps in pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they‘re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.

Central Post Office I-2, Vukovarska 16, tel. (+38520) 36 20 68. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

Real estate Alavija nekretnine I-2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-20) 42 32 92/(+385-) 098 20 30 82, 098 28 82 54, fax (+385-20) 35 68 56, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www. dubrovnik-properties.info. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement.

Pro Krečak J-4, Put Republike 12, tel. (+385-20) 43 66 02/(+385-) 098 42 76 50, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnine-prokrecak.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zlatka I-2, Vukovarska 30, tel. (+385-20) 35 68 65/ (+385-) 091 454 00 04, zlatka@zlatka.hr, www.zlatka. hr. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Amo Wash & Dry I-3, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. (+385-20) 33 33 47/(+385-) 099 501 63 02. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Elegant I-1, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. (+385-) 098 42 86 71/(+385-) 099 760 01 53. Dry cleaners. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Sanja & Rosie’s Laundrette E-1, Put od Bosanke 2 (outside Ploce Gate), tel. (+385-) 091 896 75 09, info@dubrovniklaundry.com, www.dubrovniklaundry. com. Self-service laundromat. Drop-off service available upon request. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Washing - 50kn per load (up to 9kg), Drying - 10 kn per 10 minutes (up to 9kg).

Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. (+385-20) 41 25 18.

Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. N

Pets

Making the call

Bobanović H-2, Kneza Domagoja 4, Lapad, tel. (+385-

You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dail your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

20) 35 73 45/(+385-) 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.tcom.hr. Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. (+385-20) 45 14 66, v.afauna@du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic. For emergency call 098 191 26 94. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. A

Pharmacies Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy or Gruž pharmacy .

Gruž H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 89 90. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Kod male braće B-2, Placa 30, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 11.

QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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DUBROVNIK BUSINESS NERETVA DIRECTORY COUNTY

Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this - the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you‘ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn‘t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you‘ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you‘ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.

Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll. All in all, it‘s well worth a few days‘ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries.

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness from time to time during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia‘s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season.

But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all. As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town. Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you‘ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall

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Ivana Stanešić of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.

Korčula City Museum Trg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, gm-korcula@du.t-com.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior arrangement. July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

Korčula Tourist Board Obala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 58 67, info@visitkorcula.eu, w w w. visitkorcula.eu. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that‘s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it‘s an untouched ecological paradise.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a

Sokol Tower Dunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft‘, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konvale and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it‘s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty! QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY Mljet

Epidaurus Festival (Archives) basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town‘s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one‘s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo‘s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island‘s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island‘s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you‘re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Lastovo Tourist Board Pjevor bb, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18/(+385-) 098 59 90 07, www.tz-lastovo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn‘t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia‘s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you‘d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it‘s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, 74 40 58, npmljet@np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet. hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet‘s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty.

Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Mljet Tourist Board Sobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier. Q Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. October Open 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. Mljet Tourist Board, Polače office Polače bb, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 41 86, www.mljet.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. October Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Odysseus‘s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso‘s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

The Elafiti Islands These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city‘s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they‘re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud‘s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you‘ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren‘t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you‘ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don‘t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

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Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you‘ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal.

The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia and there‘s now a Nature Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so don‘t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for

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Lidija Miscin, The Island of Korčula paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who died of hunger. More cheerfully, there‘s also a petting zoo, an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip.

Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that‘s not all - this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a handful of rather lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages.

But we certainly wouldn‘t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house (November - April 30 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. May - October 31 Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn), where one of the bestloved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up.

As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac‘s day. Bukovac‘s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There‘s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

Konavle district Tourist Board Zidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.tzcavtat-konavle.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk.

Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia‘s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits.

It is also sometimes called Croatia‘s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.

The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming.

It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Metković Tourist Board Ante Starčevića 3, Metković, turisticka.zajednica.metkovic@du.t-com.hr, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town‘s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you‘d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac‘s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).

It‘ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is

another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač‘s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj.

Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

Orebić Tourist Board Zrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, info@visitorebiccroatia.hr, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ston Tourist Board Pelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+38520) 75 44 52, tzston@du.t-com.hr, www.ston.hr.

Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00

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Events

15.06 Saturday - 29.09 Sunday

Art Pavilion - Your Black Horizon Lopud Island, www.tba21.org. After its huge success at the Venetian Biennal, the T-BA21 foundation chose the rich and ancient island of Lopud as home to its modern Pavilion. This windowless pavilion presents a thin horizontal line of light, which endlessly runs around the dark given space. Bear witness to how the light naturally changes its spectrum from sunrise to sunset. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.

Admission free.

01.07 Monday - 09.07 Tuesday

Epidaurus festival

Cavtat, Konavle, Epidaurus.festival@gmail.com, www.epidaurusfestival.com. The festival motto, ‘Living with Arts’, attracts multitudes of classical and jazz musicians, it holds theatre shows, operas, art exhibits and a young talents series in attractive open air venues.

The first ever tribute concert to the great Croatian painter Vlaho Bukovac is on once again as it proved to be an absolute hit last year.

Italy and Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and other events pertaining to the musical style, come to think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!

10.08 Saturday The Neretva Boat (lađa) Marathon , www.

maraton-ladja.hr. Be among the 50 000 viewers that attend this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a means of transport. each year, an amateur rowing cometition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.

06.09 Friday - 15.09 Sunday

Korkyra Baroque Festival

Korčula, different towns across the island, www. korkyrabaroque.com. Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers can choose from thirteen concerts with ensembles and solo artists from the UK, France, Poland,

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Red Priest, Korkyra Baroque Festival Archives

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DUBROVNIK NERETVA COUNTY The walls of Ston In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenthcentury walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009.

Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac peninsula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik‘s revenue, and helped to keep the republic‘s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall - although we didn‘t bother investigating any further.

Info: www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr, June - July 31 Open 08:00 - 19:30. August - September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:00. September 16 - October 31 Open 08:00 - 18:00. (entry 10 - 30kn)

Solana Ston by Ivana Stanešić

Trsteno If you‘re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it‘s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno.

It‘s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it‘s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494.

Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by

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local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don‘t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it‘s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Župa Dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better.

We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons.

The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you‘re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you‘ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini‘s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we‘ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach.

Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board Šetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 62 54, tz-zupa-dubrovacka@du.t-com.hr, www. dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00

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STREET REGISTER

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Ivana Stanešić A. Barca H-2,3 A. Bošković J-2,3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H-2/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

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Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

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Summer 2013

STREET REGISTER Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

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